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A HANDBOOK
THE JAPANESE EMPIRE
Adveiiisements.
•k^
Sf^NTENDING assurers, before doing so, are iii-
Ws vited to send to the EQUITABLE LIFE
^m ASSURANCE SOCIETY OF THE UNI-
■^^ TED STATES for illustrations of the Best
^f^ Policies issued by the Strongest Life Office
in the world, whose surplus exceeds Twelve Millions
Sterling in excess of all liabilities. The assets
exceed°£ 56,000,000 Sterling.
Manager, Hongkong.
Agents, Nagasaki.
J-. HI. B^THIC^^TE,
Acting District Manager for Japan.
No. lO, Bund, Yokohama.
Agents, Kobe.
J-. T. H:^iynii-.Tonsr,
General Manager for the East.
OAMOl 3GIJJ0 OMIAVUQNB OOOAQl
I^-^^
HANDBOOK FOR TlUVELLEliS
J A P A ?
T
INCLUDING THE WHOLE EMPIRE FROM YEZO TO
FORMOSA
BY
BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN, F. R. G. S.
EMEEITUS TROFESSOK OF JAPANESE AXD PHTLOI.OGY IX THl" IMPKRIAL UNIVERSITY OF TOKYO
AND
W. B. MASON
COEKESPO.NDIKG MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND LATE O^ THE
IMPERIAL JAPANESE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS Q
7^1
With Tweiity-eiglit laps ai^d Flaijs and Numerous lUustratioijs
SIXTH EDITION, REVISED
LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, Albemakle Stf.eet
ir^^} KELLY & AVALSH, LiMxxK. {fZ^ll
1 9 O 1
[ALL RIGHTS BESER VED]
rRtSTKO BV lHl.:SHfEI«HA, TOKYO.
PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION.
This edition has been revised throughout with minute
care, — as well the beaten as the unbeaten tracks. Several
ol the Northern routes, which had been affected by the
recent extension of the railway system, have been re-
arranged, and a similar remark applies to some of those
in the Island of Shikoku.
The compilers gladly avail themselves of this op-
portunity to express their thanks to various correspondents
who have kindly supplied information. Further correc-
tions or suggestions will be welcome at any time,
Tokyo, October, 1900.
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
Page.
1. General ; Books on Japan ;
Maps 1
2. Steam Communication 2
3. Custom-HoTise 3
4. Public Holidays 3
5. Giiides 4
6. Posts ; Telegraphs ; BarLks 4
7. Currency 4
8. Weights and Measvires ... 5
9. Inns ; Travelling Exjpenses 6
10. Climate ; Dress ; Time of
Visit ., 8
11. Provisions 9
12. Means of Locomotion ;
Luggage 10
13. Where to Go and What to
See 11
14. Purchases ; Objects of Art 12
Page.
15. Shipment of Goods 13
16. Shooting 13
17. Fishing 14
18. Miscellaneous Hints 15
19. Language 17
20. The Shinto Religion 37
21. Japanese Buddhism 41
22. List of Gods and God-
desses 44
23. Christian Mission Stations 57
24. Outline of Japanese His-
tory 58
25. Chronological Tables 60
26. Celebrated Personages 70
27. Population of the Chief
Cities 88
28. Outline Tours 89
Glossary of Japanese Words ... 93
ROUTES.
Section I. — Eastern Japan.
KouTE. Page.
1. Yokohama 99
2. Excursions from Yokohama 101
3. From Yokohama to Tokyo 110
4. Tokyo Ill
5. Excursions from Tokyd . . . 140
6. Miyanoshita and Hakone... 150
7. The Peninsula of Izu 160
8. Tries Island 165
9. Fuji and Neighbourhood... 167
10. Round the Base of Fuji to
Lake Sh5ji and Kami-Ide 175
11. Chichibu and the Temple
of Mitsumine ."; 176
12. Tokyo-TakasaM-Karuizawa
Railway ; Myogi-san 178
13. Karuizawa, and Asama-
yama 181
KoUXE.
Page.
14. Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neigh-
bourhood 186
15. The Shimizu-goe and
Milvuni-toge 193
16. The Oyama-Maebashi Rail-
way 195
17. Nikko and Chuzenji 196
18. From Chuzenji to Ikao
over the Konsei-toge 213
From Nikko to Ikao by
the Valley of the Watarase-
gawa ; Ashio 215
Shiobara and Nasu 218
The Provinces of Shimosa,
Kazusa, and Boshu 220
22. The East Coast Railway ... 227
19
20.
2J.
viii. Contents.
Section IL — Routes Connecting Tokyo w ith Kyoto.
BOTTTK. FAGB.
23. The Tokaido 233
24. The Nakasendo 248
BouxE. Page.
25. The Steamer Voyage from
Yokohama to Kobe 254
Section III. — Central Japan.
26,
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
The Karuizawa-Naoetsu-
Niigata Kail way 259
Ways to and from Kofu ... 268
Valley of the Hayakawa . . . 279
Mountains between the
Fujikawa and the Tenryu-
gawa 281
Eapidsof the Tenryu-gawa 285
Mountains of Hida and
Etchu 287
The Shrines of Ise 302
Kobe and Neighbourhood 314
Osaka and Neighbourhood 319
35. Kyoto and Neighbourhood 323
30. Nara and Neighbourhood 356
37. Through Yamato to Koya-
san and Wakayama in
Kishu 365
38. Through Kumano to Ise 383
39. Minor Itinei'aries in the
Province of Kishu 393
40. LakeBiwa 394
41. From Lake Biwa to Ama-
no-Hashidate, Yushima,
and the Mines of Ikuno ... 399
42. From Tsuruga to Naoetsu 405
Section IV. — Western Japan and the Inland Sea.
43. The Inland Sea and Chief
Places on and near its
Northern Shore 411
44. The Island of Awaji 424
45. Matsue and the Temples of
Izumo 429
46. The Oki Islands 432
Section Y. — The Island of Shieoku.
47. North-Eastern Shikoku 437
48. North- Western Shikoku ... 444
49. Valley of the Yoshino-gawa 44S
50. Western Shikoku from Ma-
tsuyama to Uwajima 451
51. Ways to and from KiJchi... 452
Section VI. — The Island of Kyushu.
52. Nagasaki and Neighbour-
hood 459
53. Unzen and the Shimabara
Peninsula 463
54. From Nagasaki across
Central Kyushu to the
North-East Coast 466
55. Ascent of Sobo-san 472
56. From Nagasaki to Mojl ... 473
57. North- Western Kyushu ... 476
58. Hiko-san and Y'abakei 480
59. From Kiuuamoto to Nobe-
oka and Oita 482
60. South-Eas tern Kyushu 484
61. Kagoshima and NeigbboTir-
hood ; Volcanoes of Sakura-
jima, Kirishima, and Kai-
mon-dake 484
G2. From Kagoshima to Yatsu-
shiro via the Eapids of the
Kumagawa 488
63. Through Satsuma and
Amakusa to Nagasaki 489
64. The Gota Islands, Tsu-
shima, and Ftisan 400
Contents.
IX.
Section VII. — Northern Japan.
Route. Page.
G5. The Northern Kail way 495
66. Wakamatsu and Bandai-
san 504
67. From Wakamatsn to
Nikk5 by the Valley of the
Kinugawa 507
68. From Niigata to "Waka-
matsu 508
69. From Inawashiro to Yone-
zawa Tia Bandai-san and
the Hibara-toge 508
70. Matsushima and Kinkwa-
zan 509
Route. Page.
71. From Sendai to Yamagata 513
72. From Fukushima to Yone-
zawa, Y'amagata, and Akita 513
73. Other Ways to Akita 517
74. From Yonezawa by the
Miomote Valley to Mura-
kami and Tsuru-ga-oka ... 517
75. From Y^'onezawa to the Sea
of Japan, and up the N. W.
Coast to Aomori 519
76. The North-East Coast 523
77. LakeTowada 525
78. The Tonami Peninsula 525
Section VIII. — The Island of Yezo.
79. Hakodate and Neighbour-
hood 529
80. Excursions from Hako-
date 531
81. From Hakodate to Otaru,
Sapporo and Muroran ;
Volcano Bay 534
82. The South-East Coast and
the Southern Kuriles 538
83. From Kushiro to Abashiri
and Northern Yezo 540
Section IX. — Luchd and Formosa.
84. The Luchu Islands 543 I 85. Formosa 544
CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS 551
INDEX 553
MAPS AND PLANS.
1. Japan ^^ P^^^^* ""^ «°^^'*-
2. Key to Sectional Maps to face title-page.
3. Distribution of Eainfall to face p. 9
4. Shinto Temple of Izumo " I'-
5. Buddliist Temple of Ikegami » P-
6. Eastern Japan " P'
7. Neighbourhood of Yokohama " P- ^^
8. City of Tokyo » P- ^^^
•). Temples and Tombs of Shiba on p. 118
10. Tokyo and Neighbourhood to face p. 141
11. Fuji and the Hakone District > P- 151
12. Ikao and Kusatsu » P' ^^^
13 Nikko and Neighbourhood » p. 197
14 Nikko Temples across p. 199
15. Central Japan to face p. 231
16.K5fu " ^-Z
17. Geku Temple atlse o^ P- ^^^
18. Osaka and K6be to face p. 315
r. -.r -. .. „ p. 323
19. Kyoto " '■
20. Western Japan and the Inland Sea » P- 409
,, ,,. .. on p. 421
21. Miyajima ^
,^ _ - , - to face p. 457
22. Kyushu ^
23. Neighbourhood of Nagasaki » P- ^^^
24. Kumamoto Castle o^ P- ^^'^
25. Northern Japan to face p. 493
26. Matsushima " P' ^""^
27. South- Western Yezo " P- ^■^'
28. Formosa " P'
A
Handbook for Travellers
JAPAN.
INTRODUCTION.
Page
1. General ; Books on Japan ;
Maps 1
2. Steam Communication .... 2
3. Cixstom-Hoiise 3
4. Public Holidays 3
5. Guides 4
G. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. . 4
7. Currency 4
8. Weights and Measures .... 5
9. Inns ; Travelling Expenses. 6
10. CHmate ; Dress ; Time of
Visit 8
11 . Provisions 9
12. Means of Locomotion ;
Luggage 10
13. Where to Go and What to
See 11
Page
14. Purchases ; Objects of Art. 12
15. Shipment of Goods 13
16. Shooting 13
17. Fishing 14
18. Miscellaneous Hints 15
19. Language 17
20. The Shinto Keligion 37
21. Japanese Buddhism 41
22. List of Gods 44
23. Christian Alission Stations. 57
24. Outline of Japanese His-
tory 58
25. Chronological Tables 60
26. Celebrated Personages 70
27. Population 88
28. Outline Tours 89
Glossary of Japanese Words . . 93
1.— Geneeal ; Books on Japan ; Maps.
Japan, secluded for over two centuries from contact with the outer
world, was burst open by the American expedition in 1853-4 under the
command of Commodore Perry. Maldng a virtue of necessity, her rulers
soon determined to Europeanise the country, as the best means of pre-
serving its independence. Shiiw were bought, foreign naval and military
instructors engaged, feudahsm replaced by a centralised autocracy,
education reorganised on the pattern offered by Western nations, posts,
telegraphs, and railways introduced, European dress, European manners,
European amusements adopted, Buddhism disestablished, Christianity—
if not encouraged at least no longer j)ersecuted. In short, in every
sphere of activity, the old order gave way to the new. The change has
been specially marked since the successful war %vdth China in 1894-5, the
prestige then acquired having given an extraordinary imjietus to trade
2 Introduction : — Books. Steam Communication.
and industry on Euroijean lines. But even Japan, great as is the power
of imitation and assimilation possessed by her people, has not been able
completely to transform her whole material, mental, and social being
within the limits of a single lifetime. Fortunately for the curious
observer, she continues in a state of transition, -less Japanese and more
European day by day, it is true, but still retaining characteristics of her
own, especially in the dress, manners, and behefs of the lower classes.
Those who wish to see as much as possible of the old order of things
should come quickly.
It is impossible, within the limits of this Introduction, to enter into
those details of race, history, customs, religion, art, literature, etc., which,
combmed with the • influence exercised more recently by Europe and
America, have made Japan what she is to-day. The traveller who desires
to travel intelligently— to do more than merely wander from hotel to
hotel— may be referred to a series of sketches entitled Thmijs Japanese
where, if he wishes for still more detailed information, he will lind
references to the original authorities in each special branch. Of religion
alone a short account seemed indispensable, as the temples are among
Japan's cliief sights. An outhne of history and lists of gods and celebrat"-
ed personages have been added, in order to assist the traveller to thread
his way through the maze of proper names with which he will be con-
fronted. In Japan, more than in any Western country, is it necessary
to take some trouble in order to master such preliminary information ;
for whereas England, France, Italy, Germany, and the rest, all resemble
each other in then: main features, because all have alike grown up in a
culture f undamentaUy identical, this is not the case with Japan. He, there-
fore, who should essay to travel ■\\'ithout ha\dng learnt a word concerning
Japan's past, would run the risk of forming opinions ludicrously erroneous.
We would also specially recommend Griffis's Mikado's Empire and Rein's
Japan and The Imlustries of Japan, as books which it would be profitable
to read on the way out. Eein's works are, it is true, fitted only for the
serious student,^ who is prepared for hard words and technical details ;
but The Mikado's Empiye is calculated to appeal to all classes of readers.
Of books on Japanese art, Anderson's Pictorial Arts of Japan is by far
the best ; but it is expensive and bulky. Aston's short History of Japanese
Litemiure deserves particular mention. Morse's Japanese Homes is an
excellent description, not only of the dwellings of the people, but of all the
articles connected with their daily life. Lafcadio Hearn, in his Glimpses
of Unfamiiiur Japayi and other subsequent worlis, treats with intimate
knowledge and sympathy of their manners, customs, and beliefs. In any
case, a supply of books of some sort is indispensable to help to while
away the fi-equent rainy days.
The elaborate series of maps in course of publication for many
years past at the Imperial Geological Office, may be obtained of Messrs.
KeUy and Walsh, at Yokohama.
2. — Steam Communication.
Japan may be reached by the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers
fi'om Vancouver in 13 days ; by the Pacific Mail or the Occidental and
Oriental Company's steamers fi-om 8an Francisco in about IG days, or 18
days if Honolulu be touched at; by the Northern Pacific Company's
steamers from Tacoma in about IG days ; or else from Europe through the
Suez Canal by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers from London or
Brindisi, by the Messageries Maritimes from Marseilles, and by the
Custom- Houae. Fublic Holidays. 3
Norddeutscher Lloyd from Bremerliaven, Soiatliampton, or Genoa in about
40 days. There are also outside steamers from London, notably tliose
of the " Glen " and " Shire " Lines. Yokohama is the connecting port of
all the above.
The principal Japanese Company is the Nippoyi Yusen Kicai.^h'a
(Japan Mail Steamship Company), which runs steamers from Yokohama
almost daily to Kobe, weekly to Nagasaki and Shanghai, every third day
to Hakodate and Otaru ; from Kobe weeldy to Sakai, Tsuruga, Niigata,
and Hakodate, occupying altogether about sis weeks on the round trip ;
also at longer intervals to Luchu and Formosa, and to the Bonin Islands.
The Company also has regular lines to the piincipal Korean and Chinese
ports and to Vladivostock in Siberia, also to Australia via Manila, and to
Europe. Numerous smaller companies run steamers to the Inland Sea
ports and other points on the coast, and also on some of the larger rivers
and lakes ; but they are apt to be extremely unpunctual and dilatory.
Boats — Icnown in the Treaty Ports as sampans — ply in all the har-
bours, and land passengers from the steamers. The usual fare from ship
to shore, or vice versa, is fi'om 15 to 25 sen per head. Steam launches
from the hotels are in attendance at the larger places.
3. CUSTOM-HOITSE.
strict examination of the luggage of passengers is made at the
Custom-House, and the best way to avoid trouble and delay is to open
up everything freely. Tobacco, liquors, cameras, bicycles, sporting gear,
and most other articles, except ordinary personal effects, are liable to
duty.
4. — Public Holidays.
The Custom-House and other public offices observe the following
holidays :—
Jan. 1 )
„ 3> New Y'ear Holidays {Shd-gicatsu).
„ 5)
„ 30. Anniversary of death of K5mei Tenn5. the late Emperor.
Feb. 11. Accession of Jimmvi Tenn5 in 660 B.C., and Promulgation
of Constitution in 1889 (Kirien-setsu).
Mar. 20. Spring Equinox ( Shunki Korei-sai).
April 3. Death of Jimmu Tenno.
Sept. 23. Autiimn Equinox {Shiiki- Korei-sai).
Oct. 17. Harvest Thanksgiving to the Deities of Ise (Shinjo-sai, also
called Kan-name Matsuri.)
Nov. 3. Emperor's Birthday ( Tencho-setsu).
„ 23. Second Harvest Festival (Shinjo-sai or Nil-name Matsuri).
The foreign banks, besides observing Christmas, New Year, and some
of the Japanese holidays, keep the Chinese New Year, the German Em-
peror's birthday on the 27th January, the Queen's birthday on the 24th
May, and the American and French national anniversaries (4th and 14th
July).
4 Introduction: — Guides. Posts. Telegraph.-^. Money.
5. — Guides.
Gnides understanding English can be procured of the Guides' Asso-
ciation (Kaiyu-shn) at Yokohama and Kobe, with branches at Tokyo and
Kyoto. Apply at any of the hotels. The fixed charge at present (1901)) is
as follows : — 2h yen i)er day for a piirty of one or two tourists ; over two,
50 sen added lor each tourist. In all cases the guide's travelling and hotel
expenses must be paid by hLs employer.
A guide is an absolute necessity to persons unacquainted with the
language. Those kno\\'ing a little Japanese may feel themselves more
their own masters by hiring a man-servant, or " boy," also able to cook,
and having neither objection to performing menial functions, nor opinions
of his own as to the route which it will be best to take.
Ladies may sometimes find it convenient to hii-e a Japanese maid
(genendly called amah by the foreign residents). Some of them speak
English and act more or less as guides.
G. — Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks.
The Imperial Japanese Post and Telegraph services are excellent.
Letters and papers can be forwarded with perfect safety to the different
stages of a journey. The Post-Office Order system is thoroughly efficient,
and may be found useful by travellers who wish to avoid carrying about
much money.
In most towns of any size, the Post and Telegraph Offices are
combined. Telegrams in any of the principal European languages cost
5 sen per word, with a minimum charge of 'lb sen, addresses being charged
for. A telegram in Japanese of 15 Kana characters costs 21) sen, the
address of the receiver not being charged for. The foreign resiilents
often avail themselves of this means of communication. Telephone
Exchanges have been established in some of the large towns.
There are at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki branches or agencies of
the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the Chartered Bank of India, Austra-
lia, and China, and the National Bank of China. The facilities offered by
such large Japanese Banks as the ilitsui, Mitsubishi, and the Specie
Bank (S/wkin Giiikd), which are conducted on foreign lines, may also be
availed of at Tokyo and in the interior.
7. — Currency.
The values are decimal, with the yen, equivalent to about two shillings
English, or 50 cents U. S. gold, as the unit. One yen contains 100 sen,
one sen contains 10 rin. The currency consists of gold, which is practical-
ly never seen ; of silver pieces of 1 yen, 50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen, and 5 sen ;
of nickel pieces of 5 sen ; of cop^ier pieces of 2 sen, 1 sen, and 5 rin, and of
paper money worth 1 yen, 5 yen, 10 yen, and various larger sums.
It is best to travel with paper money, both because of its superior
portabUity, and because it is better known to the inhabitants of the
interior than silver or gold. One of the first things the tourist should do
is to learn the difference between the various notes for the values
above-mentioned. He is advised to take with him no notes of higher
denomination than 10 yen, as it is often difficult to get change except in
the big towns.
Measures. Distances.
8. — Weights and Measures,
Distances are reckoned hj ri find cho, 36 c/i« going to the ri.* One
n is equal to 2.44 English statute niiles7or, roughly speaking, to a trifle
Tinder 2^ miles. One eho is equal to 358 English feet, or ^^ of a mile.
The c/io is subdivided into GO /<-en (1 ken = Gtt. approximately), and the
ken into 6 fthaku (1 shaku = 1 ft. approximately). The subdivisions of the
shaku follow the decimal system. Throughout this work, the distances are
given in ri and cho as well as in miles, as visitors to Japan drop very
soon into the Japanese method of reckoning, which indeed must be learnt
in any case, as coolies, jinrikisha-men, and others know nothing of
English miles. A word of caution may here be given against the habit of
certain Japanese having a superficial knowledge of English, who mis-
translate the word ri by " mile." The following table, borrowed from
Dr. N. Whitney, will be found useful : —
EQUIVALENTS OF JAPANESE RI AND CHO IN ENGLISH MILES.
Japanese Ri.
I
2
3
4
5
C
7
8
9
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
1
2.44
24.40
26.84
29.28
31.72
3416
3P.C0
39.04
41.49
43.93
46.37
2
4.8S
48.81
51.25
53. 6 J
56.13
58.57
61.01
Ci.45
65.89
C8.33
70.77
3
7.3-2
73.20
75 65
78.09
80.5:i
82.97
85.41
87.85
90.29
92.73
95.17
4
9.7C
97.61
100 05
102.49
104.93
107.37
109.81
112.25
114.69
117 13
119.58
5
12 2h
122.01
124 4G
126.9U
129.34
131.78
134.21
136.615
139.10
141.54
143.98
6
14.64
146.43
148.87
151.31
153.75
156 19
1.58.6!
161.07
163.51
165.95
168.39
7
17. U«
170 83
173.27
175.71
178 15
180.59
183.03
185.47
187.91
190.35
192.79
8
19 52
195.23
197 67
200.11
202 55
205.00
207.44
209.88
212.32
214.76
217.20
9
21.96
219. G4
222.08
224.52
226.96
229.40
2J1.84
234.28
236.72
239.1(5
211.60
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
Cho
Bliles
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
1
0.07
7
0.47
13
0.88
19
1.29
25
1.69
31
2 10
2
0.14
8
0.54
14
95
20
1.36
26
1.76
32
2.17
3
0.20
9
61
15
1.02
21
1.42
27
1.83
33
2 24
4
0.27
10
68
16
1.08
22
1.49
28
1.90
34
2.30
5
0.34
11
0.75
17
1.15
23
1.56
29
1.97
35
2.37
6
0.41
12
0.81
18
1.22
24
1.63
30
2.03
36
2.44
Long Measure {Kane). IQ hu = l sun (often translated "inch," but =
1.19 inch of English measure); 10sfm = l shaku (nearly 1 foot English,
actually 11.93 inches) ; G shaku = l ken; 10 shaku = 1 jo. The jo, equal to
nearly 10 English feet, is the unit commonly employed in measuring
heights and depths.
Cloth Measure {Kvjira). 10 6u = l sun; 10 sun = l shaku, or nearly 12
inches; 10 shaku = 1 jo. In this measure, the s/iafctt is J longer than in
Long Measure.
Land Measure ( Tsubo). The unit is the tsubo, nearly equivalent to 4
square yards English. An acre is nearly equivalent to 1,210 tsubo.
1 cho = 2^ acres, and 1 ri (square) = 6 sq. miles, approximately.
* Some monntain districts have a longer r» of 50 cho.
6 Introduclion: — Inns. Travelling Expenses.
Measure of Capacity. 10 <7o = l sho, whicli contains about 108^ cubic
inches, and is a little larger than 1 J quart ; 10 slid = 1 to, nearly half a
bushel, or, for liquids, 4 gallons ; 10 to = 1 koku, which is a fraction less
than 5 English bushels.
Weights. The kin is about 1 J lb. avoirdupois ; 1 lb. avoir. = about 120
rnomme. The kioan is equal to 1,000 momme {Q\ kin, or a little over 8J- lbs.).
9. — Inns ; Tbavelling Expenses.
The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best
accessible information, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name
of a house specially worthy of mention. A^Tiat is termed hatago at a
Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single
charge is usually made. This varies according to the style and standing
of the establishment, and ranges at present from 75 sen to '2J yen per head.
Scanty as the entertiiinment may often appear to one fii-esh ftom the
innumerable luxuries of a comfortable European hotel, it should be
remembered that such things as fine lacquer and porcelain utensils,
painted screens, and silk quilts, to say nothing of numerous well-dressed
attendants, are expensive items to mine host, and are charged for ac-
corflingly. Anything in the way of food or liquor ordered in addition to
the meuls supplied is considered an extra. There is no charge for firing,
lighting, attendance, or bath, provided always the traveller is content vdth
what is given to every one else, neither is there any for tea. But it is
usual, shortly after arriving and being shown into a room, or else in pay-
ing one's account just before leaving, to make a present, known as ohadai
or " tea-money." The latter course is recommended. With Japanese
travellers, this tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, tlie
amount of extra attention which he desires or has received, and with the
quality of the accommodxition. Generally they are very liberal. The
foreign tourist stands on a somewhat different footing, and there are
seldom gradations of rank to be considered in his case. As a fan and
practical solution of a vexed question, those who travel a la japoiutise and
who are charged in accordance with the native scale, may be recommend-
ed to make the amount of their chadai vary from 50 sen to 2 yen per
night, according to the style of the establishment. If two or more
persons are traveUing together, the chadai is increased, say, to one-half
more for two, and double for three persons. In some localities, especially
at bathing resorts, there is a fixed rate for the accommodation of foreign-
ers, — IJ yen or 2 yen per night for room and bedding only, any food that
may be ordered being charged for separately. In such places, which have
come under European influence, it is usual to give a small gratuity to the
servants in adchtion to the chadai, whereas in the old-fashioned inns such
presents are not looked for.
It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for
accommodation and for jiniikishas. They usually weigh more, they
almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely more
trouble at an inn with their demands for fresh water in the bath, the
occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook their European food in, and
a dozen other such requii-ements, to say nothing of their insisting on
having separate rooms, while Japanese guests — even strangers to one
another — are habitually required to share a room together.
Though one should always choose the best inn in each place to sleep
at, it will often be found more convenient to lunch at some wayside tea-
house or eating-house. The more elegant repast at the higher class inn
Inns: Travelling Expenses. 7
frequently takes much longer to prepare than it is' worth ; besides which,
most travellers carry their own proTisions.
In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikko,
Kamakura, MiyanOshita, Kyoto, Nagoya, etc., the general charge is from
3 to 8 yen a day, everything included except wines. The charge per diem
for a native servant is from 50 sen to 1 yen. The charges at the hotels
under foreign management in the Open Ports are from 5 to 10 yen.
The average charge (to foreigners) f or jinrikishas in the most frequent-
ed portions of the country is now (1900) from 15 to 25 sen per ri, the same
per hour, and yen 1.50 per diem. About 50 per cent is added to these rates
in bad weather and at night. But the tendency of late years has been
towards constantly increased rates, owing to the rise in the price of rice
and other staple commodities. It is usual to give a small gi-atuity (salcate)
to jinrildsha-men after a hard run of any distance.
Perhaps one might say that the total cost to a traveller of average
requirements, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him u
guide, should not exceed 12 yen per diem. If he restricts himself to
mountainous districts, the expense will be considerably less. A certain
saving is also effected when two or three persons travel together.
It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which travellers
in Japan put up are of three kinds, — the European hotel, the Euro-
peanised or half-Em-opean half-Japanese hotel (hoteru), and the purely
native inn (yadoya). The ryori-ya, or eating-house, supplies meals with
less delay than the regular inns, but rarely offer sleeping accommodation.
The tea-house (chaya) is different again, being a place where people
neither sleep nor dine, but only halt for a short time to rest and take
light refreshments. Residents in Japan however, often include inns
under the denomination of tea-houses. Every little railway station has
its tea-house, which undertakes to purchase the traveller's ticket and
check his luggage.
Many inns now provide chairs and tables. Beds are stiU very rare ;
but good quilts (futon) are laid down on the mats, wherever may be most
convenient ; pillows of sorts are now common, or else a small quilt will be
rolled up as a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net is provided. No inn
in native style has a dining-room. Each guest dines in his own apart-
ment at whatever time he (or more often the host) may select.
Down to 18DU travellers had to be furnished with passports. These
have now been abolished, and all that is necessary is compliance with the
regulations requiring visitors at an inn to inscrilae their name, nationah-
ty, age, profession, etc. in the register. It is a common Japanese custom
to carry letters of introduction [annai-jo) from inn to inn. This offers
advantages, especially in seasons of epidemic disease or under any other
circumstances liable to cause the traveller to be viewed with suspicion, or
when, for the purposes of any special investigation, he vkishes to be
brought into intimate relations with his hosts along the road. Many inns
keep printed forms of annai-jo, which they fill in with the traveller's
name. Occasionally these, and the little paper slips in which toothpicks
are wrapped up, as also the fans or towels which it is still the custom in
many places to present on departui-e to those guests who have given a
suitable chadai, are charming specimens of Japanese taste in small
matters of every-day Ufe.
Introduction : — Climate. Dress.
10. — Climate ; Dress ; Time of Visit.
Remember that Japan is not in the tropics, and bfing warm clothing
•with yon, whatever bo the season of yonr visit ; also very light clothing, if
your visit be in the suumier. Even in July, when the mean temperature
of Tokyo is about 76° Fahrenheit, days may come when you will be glad
of all your winter things. This applies still more to the mountains. On
the other hand, be more careful of exposure to the sun than you would
be in England. A sun helmet and a white umbreUa are useful additions
to the traveller's wardrobe.
Though garments of the roughest description vnll suffice for the
country districts, bring good clothes, such as might be worn at home, in
which to appear at the larger hotels, and to mix, if need be, in society,
whether Japanese or foreign. Japanese officials now attend their
offices in frock or morning coats, and Europeans visiting them should be
similarly attired. At a few of the highest social functions, frock-coats and
tall hats are expected. With regard to boots, it is advisable to wear such
as can be pulled ofiE and on easily, as it is necessarij to remove one's boots
every time one enters a house or temple, in order not to soil the mats on which
the Japanese sit. Grave offence is given, and naturallv given, by the
disregard of this cleanly custom. Light shoes or boots with elastic sides
are therefore to be prefened, except for mountain work. If your boots
give out, try the native straw sandals (waraji) with tho native sock (tabi),
which give a better foothold that boots on smooth rocks. Many foreign-
ers have found them excellent foot-gear, the only addition required being
a small piece of cotton-wool to prevent chafing by the thong which passes
between the great and second toes. Boots barely holding together can be
made to last a day or two longer by tying waraji underneath them.
Kanjiki, that is, iron clamps of triangular shape with spikes, are often
fastened below the waraji for walking over snow. The native blue cotton
gaiters called ki/ahan afford excellent protection froiu the attacks of
ilies, and from the rank undergrowth so often found on the lower slopes
of Japanese mountains.
At Yokohama, Chinese tailors attend the hotels, and will fit out
travellers with duck, crape, and other light clothing literally between a
night and a morning. Washing is well and expeditiously done at the
Open Ports and at the principal summer resorts.
Roughly speaking, the Japanese stimmer is hot and occasionally
wet ; September and the first half of October much wetter ; the late
autumn and early winter cool, comparatively dry, and delightful;
February and March disagreeable, with occasional snow and dirty weather,
which is all the more keenly felt in Japanese inns devoid of fire-places;
the late spring rainy and windy, with Ijeautifnl days interspersed. But
different years vary greatly from each other. The average temperature of
January, which is the coldest month, is between 3()^ and 37' Fahrenheit at
Tokyo ; but there are frequent frosts at night during five months of the
year, namely, from November to March inclusive. Skating, however, is
rare. The average temperature of August is 78^ the thermometer some-
times registering over 90°. The climate of Northern Japan from
Sendai onwards is much colder in winter, though not appreciably cooler
during July and August. A siiuilar remark applies even more forcibly to
the entire West Coast, which is exposed to the icy winds that blow direct
from Siberia. Kishu, Southern Shikoku, and Southern Kyushu are
warmer aU the year round.
kV a ^
•a
4^
^
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4- jg^ssii
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II
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^
Time of Visit. Provisions. 9
Each traveller must judge for himself from the above remarks which
Beason to select for his tour. If possible, he should be either in Tokyo or
in Kyoto durinpj the first half of April to see the lovely display of cherry-
blossoms, which are followed throughout the early summer by other
flowers, — peonies, azaleas, wistarias, irises,— well- worth seeing both for
their own sake and for that of the picturesque crowds of Japanese sight-
seers whom they attract. Further north and higher in altitude, the blos-
soms are two or three weeks later. If not able to visit Kyoto early in
April, he should try to be there at the end of October or early in November,
when the autumn leaves are in all their glory of red and gold. Tokyo is
less favoured in this respect, but the chrysantheuiums there early in
November are magnificent. The summer may most advantageously be
devoted to Nikkd, to Miyanoshita, Ikao, Unzen, or other mineral bath
resorts, or else to travelling in Yezo and in the high mountainous districts
of the interior of the Main Island, which are i^racticaily inaccessible
except between June and October. No high passes, such as the Sbibu-toge
beyond Kusatsu or the Konsei-toge beyond Nikko, should be attempted
before May. Fuji is only ascended during the hottest period of summer.
11. — Provisions.
Except at some of the larger towns and favourite hill or sea-side
resorts, meat, bread, and other forms of European food are unknown.
Even fowls are rarely obtainable ; for though plenty may be seen in
almost every village, the people object to selling them — partly because
they keep them for the sake of their eggs, partly on account of a lingering
Buddhist dislike to taking life. Those, therefore, who cannot subsist on
the native fare of rice, eggs, aiid fish (this, too, not to be counted on in
the mountains), should carry their own supplies with them. Wines,
spirits, aerated waters, and cigars are equally unobtainable ; but beer is to
be met with in most towns, the Kirin Beer brewed at Yokohama Jbeing
excellent, as are the Ehisu Beer of Tokyo and the Asahi Iker of Osaka.
Beware of spuiious imitations. It is advisable to take one or two knives,
forks, spoons, a corkscrew, a tin-opener, and the most elementary
cooking utensils. Plates and glasses can be borrowed almost everywhere.
Persons fairly easy to please and who wish to travel lightly, can reduce
the size of their provision basket by using the rice, fish, and eggs of the
country as auxiliary to what they carry with them. Curry-powder will
often help to make insipid Japanese dishes palatable, and shoyu (soy) adds
a zest to soups. When starting off for the first time, it is best to err on
the side of taking too much. Many who view Japanese food hopefully
from a distance, have found their spirits sink and their tempers embittered
when brought face to face with its unsatisfying actuality.
Fresh milk may now be obtained in many places. The yolk of an
egg beaten up is considered by many to be a good substitute for it in tea
or cofllee. It is essential to avoid all water into which rice-fields may-
have drained. In the plains, water should be filtered and boiled before
drinking.
The following Japanese articles of food are considered palatable by
most foreigners : —
Kasuteira, sponge-cake.
MifiO-shiru, bean-soup.
Sakana no shio-yaki, broiled fish.
Sakana no tempura, fish fritter.
Sake, a strong liquor made from rice and generally token hot.
10 Introduction : — 3Ieans of Locomotion. Luggage.
Semhei, thin biscuits of various kinds.
Tamago-yaki, a sort of omelette.
Torwiafte, chicken wit np small and stewed.
Ushi-nabe, beef similarly treated.
TJnagi-mesM, layers of rice \vith eels done in soy.
Yokan, sweet bean-paste.
12. — Means of Locomotion ; Luggage.
Take the railway wherever available. On those plains which no
railway yet traverses, take a jinrildsha. Avoid the native basha (carriage),
if you have either nerves to shatter or bones to shake ; and be chary of
burdening yourself with a horse and saddle of your own in the interior, as
all sorts of troubles are apt to arise with regard to shoeing, run-away
grooms (betto), etc. Such, in a few words, is our advice, founded on long
personal experience. Other possible conveyances are pack-horses (but the
.Japanese pack-saddle is torture), cows, the kago, — a species of sjuall
palanquin, uncomfortable at first, but not disliked by many old residents,
— and lastly, chairs borne by four coolies ; but these have only recently
been introduced from China, and are not found except at Miyanoshita,
Nikko, and a very few other places much resorted to by foreigners.
Persons obliged to use the pack-saddle will find considerable relief by
improvising stirrups of rope. The pleasantest sort of trip for a healthy
man is that in which walking and jinrikisha-riding are combined. In
those hilly districts which make Japan so picturesque, walking is the only
possible, or at least the only pleasant, method of progi-ession. The
luggage is then taken on a pack-horse or on a coolie's back. Bicycles are
Tised to a limited extent. One might even make long trips over the chief
highways ; but hilliness, indifferent roads, and extremes of chiuate
combine to prevent Japan from being a good field for the cyclist.
Persons intending to go at all off the beaten tracks are advised to
compress their luggage -vnthin nan-ow limits. T'his is specially neces-
sary in the thinly populated mountainous parts of the country, where
one coolie — not improbably a grandfather superannuated from regular
work, or possibly a buxom lass — is often the sole means of transport that
a village can supply, all the horses being generally with their masters
miles away in the mountains.
It is always best to avoid large boxes and portmanteaus, and to divide
the luggage into two or three smaller pieces for convenience in piling on
a coolie's hod, or for balancing the two sides of a pack-horse's load. The
Japanese wicker baskets called yanagi^gori are much recommended, as
cheap, portable, capacious, and contractable. The yanagi-gori (often
called kori for short) consists of an oblong basket, with a second fitting
over it to any depth as a cover, and is consequently convenient, not only
for clothes and books, but for provisions, since the size of the basket
diminishes as the stores are consumed, ■s\dthout any empty space
being left for the remaining articles to rattle about in. A pair of these
yanaqi-ijirrl — one for personal effects, the other for provisions — should
suffice for him who intends to rough it. They should be provided with a
large wrapper of oil-paper (abura-kumi) against the rain, and fastened
either with cords which can be procured anywhere, or with stout leather
straps.
As to Japanese roads, no general opinion can be expressed. Some-
times excellent when first made, they are often kept in insufficient repair.
Travellers must therefore not be astonished if they come across roads
Where to Go and What to See. 11
•which, though mentioned in this work as good for jinrikishas, have become
almost impassable even for foot passengers, — the result of a single season
of floods or typhoons. The changes in this respect are in proportion to
the violence of the Japanese climate. It is furthermore probable that,
the distances given in our itineraries differ slightly in some cases from
the actual truth, notwithstanding all the care taken to obtain accurate
information. It is hoped, however, that such discrepancies will never
be so great as seriously to afEect the traveller's comfort. An apparent
error of \ mile will occasionally be observed in the total mileage of the
itineraries. This arises from the fact that, the mileage of each stage
of a journey being given only within \ mile of the actual distance, the
fractional errors thus arising, though balanced and allowed for as
carefully as possible, sometimes unavoidably accumulate. On the other
hand, the so-called total mileage is obtained, not by adding up the mileage
column, but by direct calculation (also within ^ mile) of the value of the
total in ri and cho. Distances are stated wherever possible. When the
time for a walk is given instead, it must be understood to be that of an
average pedestrian.
Europeans usually avail themselves of the first-class railway cars
wherever such are provided, and ladies in particular are recommended to
do so, as not only are the other classes apt to be overcrowded, but the
ways of the Japanese hourrjeoisie v/ith regard to clothing, the management
of children, and other matters, are not altogether as our ways. Smoking
is general even in the first-class, except in compartments specially labelled
to the contrary.
Sleeping-cars, dining-cars, and buffets are still extremely rare ; but
neat little boxes of Japanese food (benio), sandwiches, tea, beer, cakes, and
ice are offered for sale at the principal stations. The Railway Regulations
permit holders of tickets for distances of over 50 miles to break their
journey at the more important places Luggage is checked as in the
United States, each first-class passenger being allowed to carry KJO lbs.,
and each second-class passenger 60 lbs., free of charge.
Licensed porters (aka-boshi), distinguished by scarlet caps, are in
attendance at the larger stations, and carry parcels for a small fixed charge.
13 — Where to Go and What to See.
" How long does it take to do Japan ? " is a question often asked.
If by " doing " Japan be meant hurrying through its chief sights, the
globe-trotter can manage this in three or four weeks, by adopting one of
the Outline Tours given in Sect. '27. He who is bent on more serious
observation will not find four months too much ; and one who has spent
that time rarely fails to come again. Travellers' tastes differ widely.
Some come to study a unique civilisation, some come in search of health,
some to climb volcanoes, others to investigate a special art or industry.
Those who desire to examine Buddhist temples will find what they
want in fullest perfection at Kyoto, at Nara, at T6ky5, and at Nikko.
The chief shrines of Shinto are at Ise, and at Kitsuki in the province
of Izumo. The " Three Places " (San-kei) considered by the Japanese the
most beautiful in their country, are Matsushima in the North, Miyajima
in the Inland Sea, and Ama-no-Hashidate on the Sea of Japan. Persons in
search of health and comparative coolness during the summer months, to
be obtained without much " roughing," are advised to try Miyanoshita,
Nikko, or Ikao in the Tokyo district, Arima in the Kobe district, or (if they
12 Introduction : — Purchases. Objects of Art.
come from China, and wish to remain as near home as possible) Unzen in
the Nagasaki district. All the above, except Kitsuki, may be safely
recommended to ladies. Yezo is specially suited for persons residing in
Japan proper, and desiring thorough change of air. At Hakodate they will
get sea-bathing, and in the interior a little fishing and a peej^ at the Aino
aborigines. But Japan is more esjiecially the happy hunting-gi-ound of
the lover of the picturesque. AVith the symmetrical outlines of its volca-
noes, with its fantastic rocks, its magnificent timber which somehow, even
when growing natxirally, produces the impression of having been planted
for artistic effect, with its tiny shrines and quaint hostehies constantly
placed so as to command vistas that delight the eye, this beautiful land is
a fitting abode for the most esthetic of modern peoples. Every variety of
scenery, from the gracefully lovely to the ruggedly grand, is here to be
found. Of the former character are the neighbourhood of Yokohama
(Kamakura, Enosbima, Kanazawa), the whole Hakone district, Fuji and
its surrounding belt of lakes, Nikko, Haruna, the Inland Sea, the Kiso
valley, North-Eastern Kyushu, Matsushima in the north of the Main
Island, and many more. Hugged and sublime in their character are the
Hida-Etchii range, Koma-ga-take in Koshu, and the whole mass of
mountains lying between the rivers Fujikawa and Tenryu-gawa. Bvit the
travelling amidst these rough mountains is itself rough in the extreme.
None but thoroughly healthy men, inured to hardship, should attempt it.
The provincial towns have, for the most part, little individuality.
As for what is called "seeing Japanese life,"' the best plan is to avoid
the Foreign Settlements in the Open Ports. You will see theatres,
•wrestling, dancing-girls, and the new Japan of European uniforms,
political lectures, clubs, colleges, hospitals, and Methodist chapels, in
the big cities. The old peasant life still continues almost unchanged in
the districts not opened up by railways.
14. — PcECHASEs ; Objects of Art.
Travellers will find the greatest facilities for purchases of every de-
scription in the large stores of Yokohama and Kobe. They will also find
much to attract them in Kyoto, Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagasaki. The
names of the best shops are given under each of these towns. Though
now sometimes sold in large stores, Japanese objects of art are not
produced in large workshops. In old days, when the best pieces were
made, few masters employed as many as half a dozen workmen in
addition to the members of their own family, and cliefs-d' a^iivre often
originated in humble dwellings, where perhaps a single artisan laboured
in the most primitive style assisted by one or two children. At the
present day, foreign influence is causing the spread of Western business
methods ; but extensive maniifactures and shop-windows finely decked
out exist as yet only in two or three of the larger towns. Even there,
the best things must often be sought in naiTow lanes. It was also
formerly, ami is still to some extent, characteristic of the Japanese trades-
man and artisan-artist to hesitate to bring out his best specimens at
once. The rule is that several visits are necessary before he ^^■ill display
his choicest articles, and that even then a long time must be spent in
bargaining. Some establishments of the more modern sort have fixed
prices. This remark also applies to the kwankoba, or bazaars.
Japan is now almost denuded of old curios. Some have found their
way into the museums of the country, while priceless collections have
Shipment of Goods. Shooting. 13
crossed the sea to Europe and America. But many of the productions
of the present day are eminently beautiful, more especially the cloisonne,
the metal-work, and the embroideries. It is not possible, within the limits
of a travelling Handbook, to enter into a disquisition on Japanese art, — its
origin, its characteristics, and the great names that adorn its history. A
■whole library on this subject has couie info existence within the last twenty
years, and the views of connoisseurs differ widely even on points of prime
importance. We must content ourselves with mentioning the names
of certain art-forms unknown in Europe, for most of which no ap-
propriate English equivalents exist. The objects embodying these art-
forms will constantly come under the traveller's notice, if he frequent the
cuiio stores. Such are : —
The inro, a small medicine-box in segments, generally made of
lacquer. The segments are held together by means of a cord, to one
extremity of which a netsuke is often attached.
The kakemono, or hanging scroll, generally painted, sometimes em-
broidered.
The korO, or incense-burner, generally of bronze or porcelain.
The makimono, or scroll, not meant to be hung up. It is used chiefly
for manuscripts which .are often beautifully illustrated.
The netsuke, originally a kind of button for the medicine box, pipe-
case, or tobacco-pouch, carved out of wood or ivory. These little articles
have since developed into gems of art.
The okimono, a general name for various small ornaments having no
definite use, but intended to be placed in an alcove or on a cabinet.
We may also mention various gear appertaining to the Japanese
Bword and often cunningly wrought in metals and alloys, of which latter
the best known are — shibu-ichi and shakudo, both formed of a basis of
copper with varying admixtures of silver and gold. Specially noteworthy
among these articles are (he tsuha, or guard, and the inenuki, — small
ornaments fixed one on each side of the hilt, and held in place by the silk
cord which binds together the various parts of the handle.
15. — Shipment of Goods.
A reference to the local Directories (or IToncj Lists, as they are also
called) will supply the names of those firms in Yokohama and Kobe which
make a business of shipping travellers' purchases to Europe, America, and
elsewhere. As a rule, too, the foreign firms which deal in curios will
•undertake to forward anythirg to destination. Remember, when sending
a box for shipment to a shipping firm, to nail it down but slightly, as it
will be opened and examined at the Japanese Custom-House. The ship-
pers should bo furnished with a detailed list of the contents and their
value, and be requested to see to the box being secured in a more solid
manner after examination.
IG. — Shooting.
The mountainous districts of Japan shelter deer and boar, though in
ever decreasing numbers, while in Yezo many bears still remain. Ducks
of various kinds, the gi'een pheasant, quail, woodcock, snipe, and hares,
are to be found in the plains and on the lower ranges of hills bordering
the tlat country, while on somewhat higher ground the copper pheasant
has its abode in the thickest cover. Hybrids between the green jjheasant
J:4 Tnt}*oduction : — Fifthing.
and an imported Ciiinese species are also sometimes met with. Japan,
"v^th its rich plains and hills giAing ample shelter to game, shoidd naturalr
\j be a good sporting country ; bnt it does not seem to be such in fact.
The law protecting birds and animals during the breeding season has
never been rigorously enforced. Moreover, the districts around Yokohamaj
Kobe, and Hakodate, have for years been too much shot over, while in
other places much of the best sporting gi-ound is privately x^reserved, and
hence inaccessible, the total result being that this country is not one to
be recommended to the sportsman.
In most parts of Japan the shooting season begins on the 15th
October, and ends on the 14th March ; but in some prefec'rures it lasts
from the 1st October to the 30th April. Licenses may be obtained froni
the local authorities, on making a written application in due form in the
Snpanese language. The maximum fee charged is 10 yen.
17. — Fishing.
V. ^ Locality. Fly-fishing may be said to be confined to that poilion of
the East Coast of Japan, north of Tokyo, where the water is sufficiently
colrl for salmon and trout. In Yezo, the river Yurap on the East Coast,
and the Shiribetsu on the West Coast are recommended. Both are in
season about June. In former years good troTit-fishing was obtainable
near Sapporo in the river Toyohira ; but owing to the refuse from the
flax-mills being allowed to discharge into the stream, only few fish now
run past it. Most of the other rivers of Y'^ezo and of the northern
provinces of the Main Island contain trout. The lakes of Yezo also
abound in ao-mnsv and ami-masu, the former a pink, the latter a white-
fleshed fish. These take the fly greedily, and are caught up to 2 lbs. in
weight. Near Fukuoka, in the province of Rikuoku, is a good stretch of
water, which would probably be best worked by staying at Ichinohe.
Further south, near Furusawa and close to the railway, is a fishing river
called the Nagagawa, and in the north-west of the Main Island the rivers
Iwaki and Noshiro are beUeved to be worth a visit. Trout <are also found
in Lakes Biwa and Chuzenji. Fly-fishers may hope for sport dming May,
June, July, and the early part of August.
Fi,sli. There are two classes of sporting fish, — the shake, or salmon
as known in Europe, and the masu {Salmo japonicus). The shake is a
fuU-sized sahuon, and ascends the rivers in great quantities during
autumn and early winter. All the northern rivers hold these fish, which
in Yezo are so plentifvd that they fall an easy prey to crows and bears.
Many must weigh as much as 3U lbs. when caught ; but they afford no
sport to the angler, since, like salmon in other Pacific waters, they neither
rise to a fly nor run to a spinning bait. At New Y'ear, the shops in Tokyo
are full of smoked shake that have been sent down from the north. Of
the masu there are several varieties ; but all are of the salmon-trout
description, and all are sporting fish. The true masu runs up the rivers
from May to August, the time depending on the temperature of the water.
These fish are in the best condition at a temperature of from 55° to 65°.
They are not taken below 50°. An 8 lb. fish is a large one, the usual size
being 5 or G lbs. The ai and yamame, which are widely distributed over
t!he rivers of Japan, are smaller vai-ieties of trout affording excellent eating.'
In some districts they are caught with worms, in others with the fly.
Tackle. Ordinally salmon taclde may be used, with flies of medium
Miscellaneous Hints. 1^
salmon size and plenty of bright colour, especially orange and yellow.
The fly is but rarely taken on the surface, and should therefore be well
drowned. A rod of about 16 ft. is the most convenient, as the fish are
strong and the pools often large. Wading trousers are useful. Spinning
"with a spoon-bait or a phantom minnow is often successful. In Ijake
Chtizenji, the fish are caught dining the summer months by trolling from
a boat with 60 or 70 yards of line heavily leaded. The bait used is a Idnd
of Colorado spoon, and can be obtained fi'om Nakamura, at Kyobashi
Ginza Itchome in Tokyo, where also Japanese lines can be had to supple-
ment the angler's gear for this land of fishing.
Accomw,odaiion. Except in Yezo, fair accommodation can be had
almost everywhere. In Yezo one must be prepared for rough quarters,
and many districts there are quite uninhabited, so that a tent should form
part of the sportsman's outfit if he is to be free in his movements.
\
18. — Miscellaneous Hints. • -.:
Take plenty of flea-powder or camphor ; but those who do not mind
the odour of oil-paper (abura-kami), will find sheets of it stretched over
the qTiilts by far the best protection against fleas. Also, if going off tb6
beaten tracks, take soap, candles, and some disinfectant to counter-
act the unpleasant odours that often disturb the comfort of guests in
Japanese inns.
Take towels, a pair of sheets, and a pillow, or at least a piUow-case
to lay on the extemporised pillow which the tea-house people will arrange.
Instead of loose sheets, some prefer to sew two sheets together to form a
bag which is tied round the sleeper's neck.
If your servant seems honest and intelligent, entrust him with money
for cun-ent expenses. This will save a world of petty bother and vexation
as to change, bargaining, and such matters.
If you have much money with you, entrust it to the host of each
respectable hotel you stop at, and get his receipt for it.
Start early, and do not insist on travelling after dark. You will thus
most easily obtain good cooUes or horses for the day's journey. By
arriving at your destination before sunset, you ^ill be likely to find th6
bath as yet unused, and will thus avoid the trouble and delay entailed
by the necessity of getting other water heated. You will also have a
better choice of rooms.
When planning your day's journey, allow an hour for each ri to be
done on foot, which should be sufficient to cover stoppages and un-
avoidable delays. Ten ri ('i4J miles) is considered by the Japanese a
proper day's work.
However inconvenient to yourself, never refuse the cooUes' request
to be allowed to stop for food, as they can do no work on an empty
stomach.
The Japanese, whose grande passion is bathing, use water at higher
temperatures — 110°-120° Fahrenheit — than physicians in Europe consider
healthful. No one, however, will be inJTired by taking baths of between
100° and 106° Fahrenheit, unless he have a weak heart or be liable to
congestion. Owing to some unexplained peculiarity of the climate, hot
baths are found by almost all Europeans in Japan to suit them better
than cold. It is advisable to pour hot water over the head from time to
time, and strong persons may advantageously end tip with a cold douche.
Paradoxical as the assertion may sound, it is nevertheless true that the
16 Introduction : — Misnellaneous Bints.
hotter tte bath, the greater the impunity with which one may after-
wards expose oneself to the cold siir. The reason why people at home
have come to entertain the notion that hot baths give a chilly reaction, is
that they do not take them hot enough, or do not immerse themselves up
to the neck. The Jaimnese have the habit, to us disagreeable, of getting
into the same bath one after another, or even at the same time ; but it is
a breach of etiquette to discolour the water by the use of soap. They
soap themselves outside. The first guest to ariive at an inn has the prior
right to the bath. Formerly, prouiiscuous bathing of the sexes was
common, and though now forbidden by the police regulations, is still
practised at many of the provincial spas.
Massage is much practised in Japan, and is a capital restorative from
fatigue after hard exercise. The services of a blind shampooer (amma
san) may be obtained at almost every inn.
Xeoer- enter a Japanese house icith yonr boots on. The mats take the
place of our chairs and sofas. What should we say to a man who trod
on oin: chairs and sofas with his dirty boots ?
It is next to impossible to get windows opened at night in Japanese
inns. The reason is that it is considered unsafe to leave anything
open on account of thieves, and there is a poUce regulation to enforce
closing.
In the event of trouble arising with regard to accommodation, the
procuring of coolies, etc., always apply to the police, who are almost in-
variably polite and serviceable. These ofiicials must not be insulted by
the offer of a tip. The same remark applies to railway guards and public
servants generally.
Make your plans as simple as possible. The conditions of travel in
this country do not lend themselves to intricate arrangements.
One standard time is now kept throughout Japan, — that of E. Long.
135°, which passes through Akashi near K5be. TLis time is U hours
ahead of Greenwich, and 14 hours ahead of American " Eastern Time."
Take visiting cards with you. Japanese with whom you become
acquainted wiU often desire to exchange cards.
Above all, be constantly polite and conciliatory in your demeanour
towards the people. Whereas the lower classes at home are apt to resent
suave mannei-s, and to imagine that he who addresses them politely
wishes to deceive them or get something out of them, every Japanese,
however humble, expects courtesy, being himself courteous. His courtesy,
however, differs from that of the West in not being specially directed
towards ladies.
Many travellers irritate the Japanese by talking and acting as
if they thought Japan and her customs a sort of peejnshow set up
for foreigners to gape at. Others run counter to native custom, and
nevertheless expect to get things at native prices. They cannot
nnderstand why a biU for several dollars should be presented to them
for ten minutes' dancing, which perhaps after all has not, amused
them. The reason for the high charge is quite simple. Japanese
do not send for dancing-girls without ordering a dinner at the same
time. The dancing is an incident of the dinner, and it is in this dinner,
that the tea-house proprietor finds his profit. He does not care to have
his premises inva^led at unusual hours by people who take nothing for the
good of the house ; neither can the dancers get ready on the spur of the
moment. Too many foreigners, we fear, give not only trouble and offence,
but just cause for indignation by their disregard of propriety, esiieciaUy in
their behaviour towards Japanese women, whose engaging mcanners and
Language. 17
naive ways they misinterpret. The subject is too delicate to be treated
here. We may, however, be permitted to remark in passing that the
waitresses at any respectable Japanese inn deserve the same respectful
treatment as is accorded to girls in a similar position at home.
Never show any impatience. You wUl only get stared at or laughed
at behind your back, and matters will not move any the quicker in t_i3
land where an hour more or less is of no account. The word tadahna,
which the dictionaries, in their simplicity, render by " immediately," may
mean any time between now and Christmas. Storuiing will not mend
matters, when you find (to take one example out of a hundi-ed) that your
jinrikisha coolies wish to stop for a meal just after you have started and
have been calculating that yovi will arrive at such and such a place at
such and such an hour. Or to take another instance. You are at a
large town, whose port Ues only 3 or 4 miles distant. I'ou ask at your
inn for information about steamers, and are told (in perfect good faith)
that they leave daily. On arrival at the port, you find they leave but
once in three days, and yours left yesterday. WhaJ; does a Japanese do
under such circumstances? He says " shilcata fja nai" ("it can't be
helped"), and there is an end of the matter. Imitate his example, if
you wish to save yourself and others much waste of temper and energy.
It is best to resign yourself at the beginning, once for all. While waiting
patiently, you have an opportunity of studying Japanese life. Neither be
moved to anger because you are asked personal questions by casual
acquaintances. To ask such questions is the Far-Eastern way of showing
kindly interest.
19. — Language.
The Japanese language, though extremely difficult to learn correctly,
is easy to acquire a smattering of ; and even a smattering will add im-
mensely to the pleasure of a tour in the country, by bringing the traveller
into personal relations with the people, and by delivering him from the
wearisome tutelage of guides and interpreters.
Eemember, in pronouncing Japanese, that the consonants are to be
sounded approximately as in English, the vowels as in Spanish or Italian,
that is to say : —
a as in father, i as in pin,
e as in pet, o as in pony,
u as in full.
There is scarcely any tonic accent ; in other words, all the syllables
are pronounced equally or nearly so. But particular care must be taken
to distinguish long o and u from short o ami u. The short vowels are
pronounced in a very light, staccato manner. Thus tori nasai means
"Please take this;" but tori nasai means "Please come (or go, lit.
pass) in." Short i and u sometimes become almost inaudible, and are
then marked t and u in the following vocabulary, thus arimasu, " there
is ; " wakarimashita, " I understand." In diphthongs, each vowel retains
its original force. Thus : —
m
Introductio n : — Lainiuo ge.
ai as in the English word "tsky.'*
au as in the English word " cow."
ei as in the English word " hay."
G is hard as in "give," never soft as in "gin;" but in Tokyo and
Eastern Japan it sounds like yig when in the middle of a word, exactly as
in the English words " singer," " springy " {not " sing-ger," " spring-gy ").
S is always sharp as in " mouse." W is often omitted after k or g, as
kasJii, " cake," for kwashi. Be very careful to pronounce double con-
sonants really double, as in the English words " sho/-iower," mea^wiess,"
" coc/ccrow." Thus kite with one i means " coming ;' ' but kitte ■with two
i's means " a ticket ; " ama is " a nun," amma " a shampooer."
As in all other languages of the Tartar or Mongolian type, so in
Japanese the adjective precedes its noun, and the genitive precedes the
nominative. Prepositions follow their noun, and are therefore really
"postpositions." Explanatory or dependent clauses precede the prin-
cipal clause, and the chief verb comes at the end of the sentence. There
is no distinction between singular and plural, or between the different
persons of the verb, and there are no genders. Consequently, such
phrases as Eimashlta ka ? may equally well mean " Has he come ! "
"Has she come?" or "Have they come?" — for pronouns are very little
used, the sense they would convey being generally left to be gathered
from the context. Questions are asked by suffixing the particle ka, as
in the instance just cited. There are no negative adverbs or pronouns,
like our English "not," "never," "nothing," etc.; but the tenses of
Japanese verbs have negative forms. Though the coniugations are too
complicated to be given here in detail, the following specimens of the
most useful tenses, positive and negative, may be of practical latility.
The beginner will probably find the Honorific forms the easier to re-
member ; they are in constant use.
Paeadigm of Japanese Verbs.
Present & Cer-
tain Future.
Past.
Probable Fut.
Gerund.
Neg. Present.
Neg. Past.
Improb. Fut.
Plain.
Honorific.
: ] Plain.
i j Honorific.
! j Plain.
I ] Honorific,
i j Plain.
I ( Honorific.
: j Plain.
i 1 Honorific.
j Plain.
, j Honorific.
\ J Plain.
[ ( Honorific.
AJIU
Arimasu
Aiia
Arimashita
Arb or aru daro
Ariniasho
Atie
Arimashile
Nai
Arimasen
Nakatta
Arbnasen deshita
Nakaro or Arumai
Arimasumai
] There is or
(" will be.
r There was.
I There probably will
f be.
/ There being, there
f having been.
i There is not or
\ will not be.
There was not.
I There probably will
\ not be.
Language.
19
Present & Cer-
tain Future.
Past.
Probable Put.
Gerund.
Neg. Pi-esent.
Neg. Past.
Improb. Put.
Desid. Adj.
Neg. ditto.
\ Plain.
/ Honorific.
^ Plain.
/ Honorific.
^ Plain.
1 Honorific.
Plain.
1 Honorific.
( Plain.
1 Honorific.
\ Plain.
I Honorific.
( Plain.
1 Honorific.
IKU J I go or
Ikimasu \ wUl go.
Itta \ T ,'
Ikimashita ^iwent.
Iko or iku dard [ I shall probably
Ikimasho ) go.
Itte Going, having
Ikimashtte \ gone.
Ikanai )I do not or
Iklmasen \ shall not go.
Ikanakatta \ t ^•-^ i.
Iklmasen desHUa j I did not go.
Ikumai ) I shall probably not
Ikimasumai \ go.
Ikitai I want to go.
Ikitaku nai I don't want to go.
Pi-esent & Cer-
tain Futm-e.
Past.
Probable Put.
Gerund.
Neg. Present.
Neg. Past.
Improb. Put.
Desid. Adj.
Neg. ditto.
\ Plain.
/ Honorific.
Plain.
\ Honorific.
Plain.
/ Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.
Plain.
] Honorific.
(Plain.
( Honorific.
Plain.
Honorific.
EUEU )I come or
Kimasu \ will come.
Eita \ T
Kimashita V ''^'^^■
Kayo or kuru darfi } I shaU jri-obubly
Ki.masho \ come.
Kite ) Coming, having
Kimashtte \ come.
Konai { I do not or
Kimasen > shall not come.
Konakatta ) t T^ j.
Kimasen deshita \ ^ '^^'^ ^°* ««'^^*^-
Kimai ) I shall probably not
Kimasumai J come.
Kitai I want to come.
Kitaku nai I don't want to come.
Present & Cer-
tain Future.
Past.
Probable Fut.
Gerund.
Neg. R'esent.
Neg. Past.
Improb. Fut.
Desid. Adj.
Neg. ditto.
\ Plain.
1 Honorific.
\ Plain.
1 Honorific.
Plain.
1 Honorific.
\ Plain.
Honorific,
plain.
Honorific.
K Plain.
/ Honorific.
( Plain.
1 Honorific.
SURU jidoor
Shimasu s shall do.
Shita )-. ,.,
Shimashtta \ ' ^ '
Shiyo or sur dard ) I shall probably
Shimasho \ do.
Shite } Doing, having
Shirnashite \ done.
Shinai )I do not or
Shimasen j shall not do.
Shinakatta ij -,■■, „ . ,
Shimasen deshm ^Ichdnotdo.
Shlmai ) I shall probably not
Shimasiimai ) do.
Shitai I want to do.
ShJtaku nai I don't want to do.
20
Inlroduction : — Lanquage.
Present & Cer-
tain Fiitnre.
Past.
Probable Fiit.
Gerund.
Neg. Present.
Neg. Past.
Improb. Flit.
Desicl. Adj.
Neg. ditto.
^ Plain.
( Honorific.
[ Plain.
^ Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.
^ Plain.
( Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.
Plain.
\ Honorific.
TABERU
Tabemasu
Tahct'i
Tabemashita
Tabeyd or taberu daro
Tabemasho
Tahete
Tabernashite
Tabenai
Tabemasen
Tahenakaita
Tabemasen deshiia
Tahemai
Tabemasumai
Tdhetai
Tabetaku nai
I eat or
shall eat.
I ate.
)1 shall probably
) eat.
t Eating, having
) eaten.
(I do not or
\ shall not eat.
I did not eat.
1 1 shall probably not
I eat.
I want to eat.
I don't want to eat.
Adjectives are conjugated somewhat after the model of aru, " to be,"
as yoroslm or yoi, "it is good;" yokatta, "it was, or would have been
good ; " yokaro, " it wiU probably be good ; " yoku 7ia), " it is not good ; "
yokitte, " being good ;" yoku nakute, " not being good." Similarly warui,
" is bad ; " warukatta, " was bad ; " iakai, " is dear ; " takaku nai, " not
dear ; " muzukashii, " is difiicult ;" muzukasMkute, " being difficult," etc.
The Japanese, like other nations of the Far-East, are much addicted
to the use of polite forms of speech. AVhen two equivalents for the same
English phrase are given in our List of Useful Sentences, that marked
"less polite" should be used only to coolies and others of the lowest
class. It ^^ill be noticed in numerous examples that our English impera-
tives are almost always softened down to a polite periphrasis ■uith the
"word kudasai, "please give," "condescend to...." Sometimes the final
kudasai is omitted for brevity's sake, as To ico shimete kudasai (lit.
" Door shutting condescend "), or more familiarly To ico shimete, " Shut
the door." The Negative Imj)erative is mostly rendered as follows : —
So shtcha (for shite wa) ikenai, " Don't do that," lit. " As for so doing,
it is no go ;" OtoslCidvi ikenai, " Don't drop it."
The following Vocabulary and the Sentences that follow will be
found useful. The interlinear literal translations serve to show which
word corresponds to which, — a thing otherwise hopelessly perplexing to
the beginner, on account of the wide gulf that separates Japanese from
English idiom. Those ambitious of learning more of the language can
proAide themselves -with Chamberlain's Handbook of Colloquial Japanese.
Satow and Ishibashi's English-Japanese Pocket Dictionary is excellent.
Hepburn's Pocket Dictionary is to be recommended for Japanese-
EngKsh.
address (written) iokoro-gaki
aerated water teppo-mizu
bad wand
bag (hand-) kaban
baggage nimotsu
VOCABULAEY.
barbe
bar(-room)
bath (hot)
„ (cold)
toko-ya, kand-
hasami.
sakaba
furo, yu
mizu-buro
Language.
21
beans
mame
dear
takai
bed
toko
dining-room
shokU'do
bed-clotbes
futon, yogi
dinner (late)
yfishoku, yu-han
bed-room
nema, nebeya
disinfectant
shuki-dome
bedstead
nedai
doctor
isha
beef
gyii-nUm, ushi
door
to
beer
hiiru
downstairs
shtta
bell
yoM-qane
driver
(jyosha
bicycle
jitensha
duck (tame)
a'hiru
big
okii
„ (wild)
kamo
bill (account)
kanjo
eels
unagi
billiards
tama-isuki
egg
tamago
bill of fare
kondate
., (boiled)
ude-tamago
black
kuroi
„ (half-boiled)
hanjiku
blanket
fiiranken, ketio
egg-plant
nasu
blue
aoi, sora-iro
embroidery
nui-mono
boat
June
express train
kyuko-ressha
boatman
sendn
fair (festival)
ennichi
boots
kutsu
fan (that shuts)
ogi, sensu
bottle
tokkuri
„ (not shutting) uchiwa
., (big)
o-hin
far
toi, empd
(small)
ko-bin
feast
gochiso
„ (hot-water) yu-tampn
ferry
funa-waiashi
box
hako
festival
matsuri
brazier
hibachi
tire
hi
bread
pan
„ (conflagration) kwaji
breakfast
asa-han
fish
sakana
bridge
hashi
flea
nomi
brocade
nishiki
food
tabe-mono
bronze
' kara-kam
" (European)
yo-shoku
cabin
heya
fork
niku-sashi, hoko
cabinet
tansu
fowl
tori
cake
kwashl
fruit
mizu-gwashi
candle
rosoku
garden
niica
cards (playing)
karuta
gold
kin
„ (visiting)
na-fuda
good
yoroshii
caniage
baslvi
grapes
hwld
change (money)
tsuri
gi-een
aoi
charcoal
sumi
guide
aimai-sha
cheap
yasul
hard
katai
chicken
niwatori, tori
heavy
omoi, omotai
chopsticks
hashi
high
takai
cigar
maki-tahako
hill
yama
cigarettes
kami-maki
horse
lima
coachman
(jyosha
hot
atsui
coal
sekitan
hotel
yadoya, hoteru
coffee
kdhi, kahe
house
ie, jinka
cold
samid, isumela i
ice
kori
<;onsrilate
rydji-kioan
ink (Indian)
sumi
coolie
ninsoku
inn
yadoya
corkscrew
sen-nuki
„ -keeper
aruji, teishi
cotton
momen
interpreter
tsuben
crape
chirimen
island
shima
cucumber
ki-uri
Ja]")an
Sihon, 2fippon
curio-shop
ddgu-ya
kettle
tetsubin
22
Introduction : — Language.
kitchen
dai-dokoro
portmanteau
kaban
knife
hocho
post-ofl&ce
yuhin-kyoku
lacquer
wnshi, nurimono
potatoes
imo
lake
mizu-umi, kosid
„ (sweet)
Satsuma-imo
lamp
rampu
pretty
kirei
landing-place
hatoba
l^rice
nedan
lantern
choch in
quail
uzura
lemon
yuzu
railway
ietsudo
lemonade
ramune
„ train
kisha
letter
tegami
raw
nama
light (not heavy)
kand
razor
kami-sori
light (lamp, etc.)
akari
red
akai
low
htkid
rice (boiled)
meshi, gozen
luggage
rdmotsu
river
kawa
lunch
hiru-meshi
road
michi
mat
tatami
„ (new)
shindd
match
tsukegi, matchi
„ (old)
kyfido
matting
fjom
room
heya, zashiki
meat
nUcu
rug
ketto
medicine
kusuri
salmon
shake
melon (musk-)
makuwa-uri
salmon-trout
masii
melon (water-)
sidkwa
salt
shiico
milk
(ushi no) chichi
sardines
iicashi
milk (tinned)
hurikki no chichi
screen
bydbu
money
kane, kinsu
sea
umi
mosquito
ka
servant
meshi-tsukae
„ -net
kaya
shaving-water
hige no yu
mountain
yama
ship
June
mustard
karashi
shop
raise
napkin
kuchirfuki
shop-keeper
akindo
near
chikai
silk
kimi
oil
abura
silver
gin
oil-paper
abura-kami
small
chiisai
omnibus
nori-ai-basha
snipe
shigi
onions
negi
soap
shabon
orange
mikan
soup
soppu, tsuyu
overcoat
gwaito, uwagi
soy
shoyu, shitaji
oyster
kaki
spoon
saji
paper
kami
stamj) (postage-)
yubin-giite, inshi
parcel
ko-zutsumi
station
station, teishaba
„ post
ko-zutsumi yuhin
steamer
jokisen
pass (mountain)
toge
steam-launch
ko-joki
path
michi
stick
tsue,sutekki
peach
memo
strawbeiTy
ichigo
pear
nashi
street
machi, tori
peas
endo-mame
sugar
said
pen (Japanese)
fude
supper
ynshoku, yfi-han
pepper
koslio
tea
cha, cha
persimmon
kaki
„ (Chinese)
Nankin-cha
pheasant
kiji
tea-cup
cha-wan
pin
tome-bari
tea-house
chaya
plum
sumomo, ume
tea-pot
kibisho
pohceman
junsa
telegram
dempo
pohce-station
koban
telegraph office
denshin-kyoku
porcelain
seto-mono
telephone
den-ioa
Language.
23
temple
( Bud-
trout
ai, yamame
dhist)
tera
tub (not regul
ar
temple (Shinto)
jinja, miya
bath)
gyozui
ticket
kippu
Tigly
migurushii
„ (return)
ohen-gippu
umbrella
kasa, komori
time-table
jlkan-hyo
ujistairs
nikai
tinned
pro vi-
vegetables
yasai
sions
kanzume
vinegar
su
toothpick
koydji
waiter !
boy!
towel
tenugai
waitress !
ne-san !
town
machi
water
(cold)
inizu
train
kisha
„
(hot)
yu, yu
„ (first)
ichi-ban-gisha
,,
(tepid)
nuruma-yu
„ (last)
shimai-gisha
water-closet
benjo, chozuba
„ (exp
ress)
kyuko-ressha
white
shiroi
„ (through)
chokko
window
mado
tramway
Utsudo-hasha
wine
budoshu
I
watakushi
It
sore, are
My
watakushi no
We
iDatakushi-domo
You
anaia, omae
Y'^^ou (plur.)
anata-gata
Your
anata no, omae no
They
ano hito-iachi
He
ano Into, ano otoko
This
kore
She
ano hito, ano oiuui
That
sore, are
His, her
ano Mto no
1 —
hitotsvi
or ichi
16
-f^
jn-roku
2 -
futatsu „ yii
17
-r-t
ju-shichi
3 H
mitsu
„ snn
18
-f-A
ju-hachi
4 m
yotsu
„ shi
19
-tit
ju-ku
5 51
itsiitsx
„ go
20
r.-r
nv-ju
6 -^
mutsu
„ roku
21
^-f--
ni-ju-ichi
7 -fc
nanatsu „ shichi
30
san-jd
8 A
yatsu
„ hachi
40
m—
shi-jfi
9 %
koko'notsu „ ku
.50
E+
go-jit
10 -f-
to
„ j'U
60
T-.-f-
rotcu-ju
11 -h-^
jil-ichi
70
-ti-
shichi-ju
12 -p-
ju-ni
80
A-f-
hachi-ju
13 i-H
ju-san
90
ivf-
ku-ju
14 i-H
jfi-shi
100
w
hyaku
15 i-E
ju-go
lUOO
=p
sen
No.
1
icld-han
1 o'clock ichi-ji
Xo.
2
ni-ban
>2
ni-ji
No.
3
sam-ban
3 ",
san-ji
No.
4
yo-ban
4 „
yo-ji
No.
5
go-ban
5 „
go-ji
half-ijast 5 o'cloc
3k
go-ji ha
n
1 yen
1
chi-yen
1st class
joto
2 „
li-yen
2nd „
chilto
10 sen
iis-sen
3rd „
kato
20 „
ni-jis-sen
30 „
san-jis-sen
24
Introduction : — Language.
A jiniikisha witli one man is called ir.hi-nim-hiki ; ■with two men,
ni-nim-biki. A carriage with one horee is it-to-biki ; with two horses, ni-to-
biki.
Many of onr words have no Japanese equivalents, because the things
for which they stand are not commonly known in Japan. Such are, for
instance, jam, lamb, pudding. The following are examples of Japanese
words for which there are no exact English equivalents :
ato-oshi, a second jinriMsha coolie who pushes from behind.
bento, livach carried with one.
bento-bako, a box to hold such lunch.
beito, a running groom.
dotera, a land of wadded dressing-gown.
kago, a kind of basket or litter in which travellers are carried.
kai-kiri, engaging the whole (of a vehicle or boat).
kya-han, a kind of gaiters.
yanagi-gori, a useful sort of trunk made of wicker-work.
yukata, a thin dressing-gown worn before and after the bath.
Useful Sentences.
I.
MISCELLANEOUS.
How do you do ?
Eonnichi ica !
To-day as for
Crood morning.
hayd.
Honourably early
It is fine weather to-day.
Konnichi wa, yoi ienki
To-day ae for, good weather
gozaimasit.
is
de
by
It is hot to-day.
at.su gozalmasi/.
Honourably hot augustly-ls
It is cold to-day.
samu gozaimasu.
(The above weather
remarks almost amount to greetings.)
Good evening.
Komban wa !
This evening ae for
Good night.
yasumi nasai.
Honourably "resting deign
Goodbye.
Sayonara.
Thank you.
Arigato.
Pray don't mention it.
Do itashimashVe !
How ;having done
That is so ( = English " yes
"). Sayo de gozaimasu.
So by is
,, (less polite.)
So desit, or So da.
So is so is
Is that so ?
So desu ka ?
Language.
25
That is not so.
Isn't that so ?
Is that all right ? (polite)
„ (less polite).
That is aU right.
Is it this ?
It is this.
It isn't this.
Do yon understand ?
I understand.
I don't understand.
Please come here.
Come in
Please sit down.
Please come again.
Please excuse me.
Allow me to congratulate you.
That is plenty.
No, thank you.
What shall we do ?
What is it ?
What is this ?
Please show me.
Please let me know.
Just let me look.
Please go and ask.
You had better go find ask.
Just go and see.
that all right ?
So ja nai.
So by isn't
So ja nai ka ?
Yoroshiu gozaimasu ka ?
lioocl is ?
Yoroshii ka ?
Yoroshiu gozaimasu ; or Yoroshii.
Kore desii ka ?
This is V
Eore desu.
Kore ja nai.
This by isn't
WakarimashJta ka ''
Have understood ?
Wakarimashita .
Wakarimasen.
Oide nasai.
Honourable-exit deign
hairi nasai.
Honourably entering deign
Dozo o kake iiasai.
Please honourably to-place deign
Mata irasshai.
Again come (honorific verb)
Gomen nasai.
August-excuse deign
medeto gozaimasii.
Honourably congratulatory is
3Id takusan.
Already plenty
Do shimasho ?
How shall do
Nan desii ka ?
What is ?
Kore wa, nan desu ka ?
This as for, what is ?
Misete kudasai.
Showing condescend
Shirashlte kudasai.
Informing condescend
Clio'do haiken.
Just respectful-glance
Kiite kudasai.
condescend
Kiite kuru ga ii.
Asking to-come (nom.) good
Chotto mite kite kudasai.
Just looking coming condescend
Sore de yoroshii ka?
That by, ' good ?
26
Introduction : — Lang uage.
Don't do tliat.
That won't tlo.
"Why do you do such things ?
Please take care. j
Please pay attention. f
"Where is it ?
"Who is it ?
When is it ?
"Where is it from ?
What o'clock is it ?
Is this all ?
I don't know.
He says he doesn't know.
Wait a little.
Go quickly.
That is no good, or That won't do.
"Which is yours ?
This is mine.
"Who is that ?
"WTiat is his name ?
That is enough.
Oh, what a bother !
Don't make such a row !
Don't bother so !
"What a hoiTid smell !
Please leave off. )
Don't do that. j
It can't be helped.
So shtcha ikenai.
So as for doing, is no go
Sore ja ikemasen.
That i)y, is no go
Naze sonna koto sum ka ?
■Why such things do ?
Ki wo tsukete kudasai.
Spirit (accas.) fixing condescend
Doko desu ka ?
Where is ?
Dare desu ka ?
Itsu desu ka?
Doko kara desu ka ?
Xan-doki desu ka ?
What-hour is ?
Kore dake desu ka?
This only is ?
Shiriinasen {shiranai less polite).
Shirimasen to iimasu.
Knows-not that says
Sukoshi mate.
Little wait
Hnyaku ! h a yaku !
Quickly quickly
Sore wa, dame desu.
That as for. useless is
DocJd ga anata ow desu ka?
Which (nom.) you of is ?
Kore ga watakushi no desu.
This (nom.) me of is
Ano htto tea, dare desu ka?
That person as for, who is ?
Ano htto no na wa, nan
That person of name as for, what
to iimasu ka ?
that say ?
J/o yoroshii.
.\lready good
Komatta mon'' da ne !
Troubled thing is, isn't-it
Yakamashii !
Koisy
Urusai ! urvsai 1
Troublesome troublesome
Kusai I kusni !
Smelly smelly
yoslii nasai.
Honourably abstaining deign
SliVcata ga nai.
Doing manner (nom.) isn't
Language.
27
As qmckly as possible.
As early as possible.
Is anything the matter ?
WMcli is tbe best ?
How much for one ?
How miach per n (2^ miles) ?
How much per head ?
I don't want that.
This is the one I want.
It doesn't matter.
I don't care.
What a pity !
I have none at all.
Has nobody come ?
Can you ?
I can.
I can't.
Can you go ?
I can (go).
I cannot (go).
What is the reason ?
You mustn't touch it.
Give me one more (another).
Please go first {apres vous).
I should hke to borrow it for
minute.
Don't break it.
You mustn't break it.
Aarutake Isolde.
As . . as possible hurrying
Nanitake hayaku.
As . . as possible quickly
Do ka sldmashita ka ?
Somehow has done ?
Dochi ga yoroshii ?
Which (nom.) good
Ilitotsu ikura ?
One how much
Ichi-ri ikura ?
One ri how much
Hitori-mae ikura ?
One person front, how much
Are wa, irimasen.
That as fur, enters not
Kono ho ffa irimasu.
This side (nbm.) enters
I Kamaimasen.
\ Matters not
Oshii koto desii ne !
Regrettable fact is, isn't-it
Sukoshi mo nai.
Little even isn't
Dare mo konai ka?
Anybody comes not ?
Dekimasu ka ?
Forthcomes (it) ?
Dekimasu.
Forthcomes
Dekimasen.
Forthcomes not
Ikaremasu ka ?
Can-go
Ikaremasu.
Can-go
Ikaremasen.
Cannot-go
Do iu wake desii?
What say reason is
Ijitcha ikenai.
As-f or- touching is-no-go
Mo hitotsu kudasai.
More one condescend
Dozo saki ye.
Please honourable front to
a Chotto haishaku.
Slightly borrowing
I KoicasMcJvi ikenai.
) As-for-breaking is-no-go
28
Introduction : — Language.
It is your fault.
It is not my faiilt.
I am very glad to see yon.
Please give it to me.
I am going out at about nine
o'clock.
What is the matter ?
Look for it everywhere.
How long will it take ?
How much will it cost ?
I want a piece of string.
I have not yet decided.
I only want one.
And then
It can't be found.
{^all him back.
Which are yours ?
Whose are these ?
He said he'd come to-monow.
Will you guarantee it ?
Anata ga loarui.
You (nom.) bad.
WatakuJihi ga warui n'ja ncd.
I (nom.) bad of isn't
Yoku ide nasaimasMta.
Well honourable exit have-deigned
Kudasai.
Condescend
Ku-ji goro ni de-Jcakemasu.
Nine-hours about at go-out
Do shimashita ka ?
How has-done ?
Yoku yoku sagashtte.
Well well seeking
{^Toki ica) dono kurai kakarimasu?
Time as-for, what about costs
(Kane tea) dono kitrai kakarimasu ?
Money as-for, what about costs
Ito ICO kudasai.
string (accus.) condescend
Mada klmemasen.
Yet decide not
Hitotsu de yoroshii.
One by is good
Sore kara
That from
Mi-tsiikaranai.
See fix cannot
Yohi-modoslnte kudasai.
Calling back condescend
Bochira ga anata no desu?
Which (nom.) you of is?
Dare no desu ka?
Who of is ?
MyonicM kuru to iimashita.
To-morrow come that said
Vke-aimasu ka?
Guarantee ?
H.
AT AN INN.
Which is the best inn ?
Have you any rooms?
Have you any beer ?
nani-ya
what house
Yado wa,
Hotel as for,
yoroshii ka ?
good ?
ZasMki wa, arimasu ka ?
Room as for, is ?
Blirtt, wa, arimasu ka?
ga
(nom.)
Language.
29
Tliis room Mall do.
Can you give us European food ?
I suppose you liaven't bedsteads,
haye you ?
I don't want a bedstead.
Ai'e there any mosquitoes bere ?
Kono zashiki de yoro.<ihu.
This room by, good.
Yo-shoku ga dekimasii ka .
Sea-food (nom.) forthcomea ?
Kedai
It is dreadfully hot.
Please open the paper slides.
Please sbut the window.
Bring some hot water.
Bring some cold water.
Where is the W. C. ?
Please show me the way.
Please bring a candle.
Is the bath ready ?
It is not ready yet.
Isn't it ready yet?
When will it be ready ?
As soon as it is ready.
Please let me know when it is
ready.
All right, Sir.
Please buy me five 10 sen post-
age-stamps.
wa,
Bedstead as for,
Nedai wa.
Bedstead as for.
arimasumai.,
probably is not,
irimasen.
enters not
ner
eh?
Kono hen iva, ka
This neighbourhood as for, mosquito
ga imasu ka ?
(nom.) dwells ?
Aisukute, shi-yo ga nai.
Hot being, way of doing (nom.) isn't
<S7iq;'i wo akete kudasai.
Paper slide (accus.) opening condescend
Madn too shimete kudasai.
Window (accus.) shutting condescend
yu ico matte
Honourable hot water (accus. ) bearing
koi.
come
Mizu motte koi.
Cold, water bearing come
Benjo wa, dochira desu ?
W. C. as for, where is V
Chotto annai .flute kudasai.
Just guide doing condescend
Bosoku ivo motte kite
Candle (accus.) carrying coming
kudasai.
condescend
Furo ga dekima.'ihita ka .*
Bath (nom.) has forthcome '.'
Mada dekimasen.
Still forthcomes not
Mada dekimasen ka ?
Itsu dekimasii ka ?
When forthcomes ?
Deki shidai.
Forthcomes according
Dekimashitara, s]iiras]ute
When shall have forthcome, informing
kudasai.
condescend
Kashikomarimash'ita. (Said only to
Have been reverential superiors).
Jis-sen no yicbin-gitte go-mai
Ten sen of postage-stamp five pieces
katte kite kudasai.
buying coming condescend
30
Introduction : — Language.
And then please take these things
away.
Have the things come from the
wash ?
I am thirsty.
Give me a glass of water.
Please give me some more.
I am hungry.
I want something to eat.
Please get it ready quickly.
Anything will do.
And then please lay down the
bedding.
Please let me have more quUts.
There is a hole in the mosquito-
net.
I want to get shaved. Is there a
barber here?
There is.
Then send for him.
I feel unwell.
Is there a doctor here?
Sore kara,
That from,
kudasai.
condescend
Sentaku-mono
Wash-things
ka?
?
Nodo
Throat
Mizu
Water
Motto
More
Honourable
sukimashVa.
has become empty
kore wo
this (accus.)
sagete
lowering
ga
(nom.)
dekita
have forthcome
ga
(nom.)
kaioakimafslCita.
has dried
ico
(accus.)
kudasai.
condescend
ippai.
one-full
naka
inside
ga
(nom.)
JVajji ka
Something
tahefai.
want to eat
shitaku wo Jiayalcu
Honourable preparations (accus.) quickly
doJca.
please
]\'an de mo yoroshii.
What by even good
Sore kara, toko shiite Icudasai.
That from, bed spreading condescend
Futon wo
Quilt (accus.)
kudasai.
condescend
Kaya
Mosquito-net
motto
more
sJiiite
spreading
ni,
in,
ana
hole
Hige wo
Beard (accus.)
.sotte
shavinji
ga,
whereas,
arimasu
koko
here
ka?
?
ga arimasu.
(nom.) is
moraitai
want to receive
tokoya ga
barber (nom.)
Gozaimasu (more polite than Ari-
masu).
Sonnara yonde, koi.
If so, calling come
Kagen ga warui.
Feelings (nom.) bad
Koko ni isJia ga orimasu
Here in doctor (nom.) dwells
ka?
1
Language.
3L
Please call my "boy."
Please hui-ry him tip.
Please lend a hand here.
Please post these (letters).
Please light the Ughts.
I start at 7 o'clock to-morrow
morning.
As I am starting early to-morrow,
please wake me early.
I want to be called at half past 5.
I am going by the first train in the
morning.
At what o'clock does the first train
start ?
Please engage two coolies.
Please bring the biU.
Please to accept this small sum as
tea-money.
Many thanks for the trouble you
have taken.
Is the luggage ready?
Is nothing forgotten?
hoy wo yonde
boy (accus.) calling
kudasai.
condescend
Icudasai.
condescend
wo
(accus.)
dasiCile
putting forth
Watakusld no
I of
kudasai.
condescend
Saisoku shite
Urgency doing
Te im kaslute
Hand (accus.) lending
Kono yfihin
This post
kudasai.
condescend
Akari wo tsukete kudasai.
Light (accus.) fixing condescend
Myo-asa shichl-ji
To-morrow morning seven-houi-s
shuttatsu .shimasu.
departure do
Myo-asa
To-morrow morning
kara, hayaku
because, early
sai.
descend
Oo-ji-han ni
Five-hours-half at,
tai.
obtain
hayaku
early
Okoshite
rousing
okoshite
rousing
tatsu
start
kuda-
con-
morat-
want-to-
IcM-han-gisha de
One-number-train by
ikimasu.
Ichi-ban-gisha
One-number-train
wa nanji desu 7
as for, what-hour is.
futari
two people
Ninsoku
Coolie
kudasai.
condescend
Doka kanjo-gaki wo
Please bill-writing (accus.)
kite kudasai).
coming condescend
Kore wa siikoshi
This as for, little
o chadai
honourable tea-price
Oki-ni
Greatly honourable
narimashita.
have become
Nimotsu no
Luggage _ of
yoroshii ka ?
good ?
Wasure-mono ica
Forgotten things as for.
tanonde
requesting
(motte
carrying
desu qa, —
is although, —
isii.
s
seica ni
helj) to
shttaku
preparation
nai
aren't
ica,
as for.
ka?
V
32
Introduction : — Language.
Please order the jinrikishas.
We ■will start as soon as everything
is ready.
It is time to start.
We ninst not be late.
It is so nasty I can't eat it.
Kumma no
Jinrikisha of
slCite kndasai.
doing condescend
Shltaku shidai,
Preparation according
shltnkn
preparation
tco,
(accus.)
de-kalcemasho.
will go forth
Jikan
Hour
Osoku
Late
ni narimashita.
to has become.
tiaru to ikenai.
become if, is no go
There are none anywhere. j
It is not to be found anywhere. (
It is so hot I can't get into it.
It is not hot enough.
I want a jinrikisha.
I am not going to bny anything.
TNTiere hare you been ?
(in scolding a servant for absence)
What is this called in Japanese ?
It is very inconvenient.
According to circumstances.
If it suits your convenience.
I think that would be the most
convenient.
Mazvkute
Being-nasty
Doko ni
Where in
taherareniasen.
cannot-eat
mo,
even
arimasen.
is-not
Atsiik^lte
Being-hot
Nurukute
Being-tepid
Kuruma
hairenvisen.
cannot-enter
ikenai.
is no go
ga irimasu.
JinrLkisha (nom.) is-necessary
Nani-mo k.aimasen.
Anything buy-not
Omae loa, doko ye itte ita ?
You as-for, where to going have-been
Xihon-go de, kore wa
Japan-language in, this as-for,
iimasii ?
say
Yohodo fuisugo desix.
Plenty inconvenient is
Tsugo shirlai.
Convenience according
Go tsugo ga
August convenience (nom.)
Jw wa, tsugo ga
side as-for, convenience (nom.)
gozaunasho.
will-iDrobably-be
nan to
what that
yokereba.
if-is-good
Sono
That
yii
good
That is a different thing.
It is a mistake.
f
Please dry this.
Please clean the room.
WiU you change this five yen note ?
Please sew this.
I will go and see it.
hoshile kudasai.
drying condescend
kudn.sai.
condescend
Chig'iiina.fii.
(It) differs
Kore wo
This (accus.)
Soji shite
Cleansing doing
Kono go-yen
This iive-1/ew
kuremasu ka?
give ?
Kore v:o nnite
This (accus.) sewing condescend
Mite kimasho.
Looking will-come
satsu
bill
ku'lisai.
tori-kaete
changing
Language.
33
Please cool the beer.
That is not enough.
We will engage the whole (coach,
boat, etc.).
I will go if it is fine.
Bvlru wo hiyasMte kudasai.
Beer (accus.) cooling condescend
Sore de tarimasen.
That by suffices-not
itashlmashd.
will-do
m
to
Kai-kiri
Buy-completing
Tenki
Fine-weather
I will take my bath first and my Furo v)a saki
food afterwards.
nara,
if-is
Bath
as-for
ikimasho.
will-go
shokuji wa ato
food as-for after
I want to get my hair cnt.
Don't cut it too short.
It is very uncomfortable.
"What are you looking for ?
It is only a little way.
It is dreadfully draught}''.
The fire has gone out ; j^lease bring
some more charcoal.
Please put out the light.
You must not piit out the light.
Did any one call while I was out ?
Put them sei)arately.
before,
ni shimasho.
to will-do
Kami wo Imsande moraiiai.
Hair (accus.) cutting want to get
Amari mijikaku kitcha ikenai.
Too short aa-for-cutting is-no-go
Yohodo fujiyn desu.
Very
Nani
What
Jiki
Soon
Kaze
Wind
Hi
Fire
iru ?
are
uncomfortable is
WO sagashtte
(accus.) seeking
soko desu.
there is
ga haitte, komaru.
(nom.) entering am troubled
ga
(nom.)
kleta
vanished
sumi
charcoal
wo
(accua.)
o kure.
honourably give
kara,
because,
motte
carrying
motto
more
kite
coming
Akari wo keshite o
Light (accus.) extinguishing honourably
kure.
give
Akari wo kesJiicha ikemasen.
Light (accua.) extinguishing is no go
Busu ni, dare ka kimasen ka ?
Absence in somebody comes not ?
Betsu-hetsu ni shite kudasai.
Separate separate in doing condescend
ra.
SHOPPING.
I think I'll go out shopping.
How much is it ?
That is too dear.
Kai-mono ni de-kakemashd.
Purchases to will probably go out
Ikura desii ?
How much is
Sore wa takai.
That as for, dear
34
Introduclion : — Language.
You mtLst go do"vm a little in price.
Haven't you any a little cheaper ?
How nix;ch does it all come to ?
Have you change for a yen ?
Please send them to the hotel.
Haven't you got something new ?
This is the better of the twa
This is the one I want.
"VMiat is this used for ?
WTiat is this made of ?
I don't like it.
Is there a cate-shop here ?
How much for one ?
I'll take aU these ; please -wTap them
up in paper.
'Wrap them up separately.
Aie they all the same price ?
Sukoshi make nasai.
Little honourably cheapening deign
Mo chitto yasui no ga
still slightly cheap ones (nom.)
7iai ka ?
aren't ?
Mina de, ikiira ni
All by how much to
ka?
?
7ianmasu
becomes
Ichi-yen no
One-yen of
arimasu ka?
is ?
Yado ye
Hotel to
Nani ka
Something
ka?
?
Kono ho ga ii.
This side (nom.) good
tsuri
change
wa,
as for
toiokde kudasai.
forwarding condescend
atarnshii mono arbnasen.
new thing isn't
nam
what
Kore wa.
This as for
ka?
?
Koj'e ICO, nani
This as for what
imasu ka ?
is ?
911
to
tsukaimasi*
emxjloy
de dekite
by forthcoming
ni
to
mmasen.
enters-not
Ki
Spirit
Koko ni kwashi-ya arimasu ka ?
Here in cake-shop is ?
Uitotsu ikura ?
One how-much
Kore dake kaimasu kara, kami
This amount buy because, paper
ni tsutsunde
kudasai.
in wrapping
condescend
Betsu hetsu
ni tsutsunde
Separate separate
in wrapping
kudasai.
condescend
Mina do-ne
desit, ka ?
All same-price
is ?
IV.
ON THE EOAD.
Which is the way to Kiga ?
Kiga ye iku michi
Kiga to goes road
dochira de gozaimasu ?
which by is
ten,
as for.
Laiujuagt
35
Please tell me the ^vay.
Go straiglit on.
Where is the telegraph office ?
^\T].ere is the ticket-office ?
(Give me) one 1st class ticket to
Nikko.
Michi ICO oshiele kiidasai.
Road (accus.) teaching condescend
Massugu oide nasal
Straight honourable exit dei"n
Denshin-Jcyoku tea, dochira
Telegraph office as for, where
desu ka ?
is ?
Kippu wo uru iokoro ua
Ticket (accus.) sell place as for
doko desii ka?
where is ?
Nikko made,
Nikkd till.
itto ichi-
first class one-
(Please book) this luggage for
Niklvd.
mai.
piece
Kore dake no
This only of
Nikko made.
Nikko till
How many hours does it take to Xagoya made.
get to Nagoya ? Nagoya till,
kakarimasu ?
lasts ?
I mean to spend the night at Xagoya 'Je,
nimotsu wo,
luggage (accus.)
nan-ji-kan
wLat-hour-space
Nagoya. Nagoya
s'la-a tsumori
do intention
ippaku
one-nisht'fi lodging
iJfsH.
"When does the train for Xikko
start ?
^\^lere do we change trains .■'
I will rest a little.
What is tlie name of that mopu-
taiu ?
What is this place called ?
Is this a Buddhist or a Shinto Kore
temple ? This
yiklcd-yul. l
Nikko going
no
of
Icisho
traiu
as for.
aun-doki ni dtmasn ka ?
what hour at issues V
Doko de nori-kaema su ka?
Where at ride-change ?
Sukosh i
Little
[lafsumitnash
will i)robably i
d.
rest
Ano yama
That mountain
va,
as for.
Win
what
to
that
iiinasii
ka ?
say
•>
Koku
Here
V'l.l ,
as for,
nan
what
to
that
iu
say
iokoro
place
desii
is
ka ?
•>
I'sa, tera
as for, Buddh. temple
desii
ka .■' yashiro desii ka ?
? .Shinto temple is V
36
Introdiioiion : — Language.
How far is it from liere to the next
town ?
I will lie down a bit, as I feel
seasick.
Will you come with me ?
Let us go together.
Let us rest a little.
I want to see the dancing.
I don't want to see it.
Is it much further ?
When will you come ?
'\\Tien will he come ?
I have left it behind.
What is there to see here ?
Do you think we shall be in time ?
Are you ready ?
There is plenty of time.
There isn't enough time.
I am busy now ; come later.
"What is the fare ?
Give them 10 sen each as a tip.
It is too wet.
Koko
kara, sakl no
shuku
Here
from, front of
post-town
made.
ri-su wa
dono
till.
mile-number as for.
what
kurai
desu ?
about
is
Fune
ni i/oimashiia
kara,
Ship
in bave-got-tipsy
because.
chotlo
nemashd.
little
will-lie
Issho ni o ide
Together honourable exit
Issho ni ikimnsho ja nai ka ?
Together will-go isn't it ?
Chiito yasumimashd ja nai ka?
nasai.
deign
Little
will-rest
isn't it ?
nai.
nut
Odori wo mitai.
Panco faccus.) want-to-see
Mitaku
Want-to-see
Mada takusan arimasu ka '!
Still much is ?
lisu ide ni narimasu ka ?
When honourable exit to become ?
Itsu kima.su ka ?
When comes ?
Oite kimashita or
LeavinR have-come
Wasttreie kimashita.
Forgetting have-come
Koko de miru mono wa.
Here at see things as for,
7ian desu ka ?
what are ?
Ma
Time
Mo
Already
Ma
Time
3Ia
Time
Iina
Now
d aimasho
shall meet
yoroshii ka
'all right ?
ka?
1
to
to
aimasu.
meets
aimasen.
meets-not
isogashii
busy
irusshai.
deign-to-come
Chinsen wa.
Fare as for,
Mei-mei
Each
kara,
because,
nochi-hodo
afterwards
jis-sen
ten sen
ikura ?
how much
ni sakate wo
to, tip (accus.)
yatte kuda.iai.
giving condescend
Kono ame de shiyo ga ncii.
This rain by way-to-do (nom.) isn't
Language. The Shinto Religion.
37
Isn't there a short cut ?
I would rather walk.
Is it far ?
I have a headache.
I have a toothache.
Where can we stop for lunch ?
I shall go whether it rains or not.
Chika-michi urimasen lea?
Near road isn't ?
Arukimasho.
Empo de.tu ka?
Far ia ?
Zutsu shimasu.
Headache does
Ifa fja itai.
Tooth (nom.) painful
Hiru wa, doko de tahemashu ka?
Noon as for, where at shall eat ?
Futte mo ieite mo iklmasu.
Raining even, shining even, I «o
Put me down (said to a jiniild-man). Orose.
Let down
I should Hke to enquii-e. Chotto idmgaimasu.
Little (I) enquire
Which is the best inn at Minobu? Minohu wa, yado wa, dochira
Blinobu as for inu as for where
ga yoroshiu ijozaimasii?
(nom.) good is?
Isn't there any inn in this village? Kono mura loa, yadoya wa
This village as for inu as for
oTimasen ka ?
isn't ?
20. —The Shint5 Religion ; Ryobu and Pure Shinto.
_ The Japanese have two rehgions, Shinto and Buddhism,— the former
indigenous the latter imported from India via China and Korea • but
^i«!^nf J"^ supposed that the nation is therefore divided into two
dist net sections each professing to observe one of these exclusively
nur. bPv'n? ""'^'qi -^ ^-"/"^ "',' thoroughly interfused in practice, that the
number of pure Shmtoists and pure Buddhists must be extremely smaU
Bud.l°htl exception IS aftorded by the province of Satsuma, from which the
Luddhist priesthood has been excluded ever since some of their number
betrayed the local chieftain into the hands of Hideyoshi. Every Japa-
?hKtn'T> '' ^f ^^ IS placed by his parents under the protection li some
Shinto deity, whose foster-child he becomes, while the funeral rites are
«>ndiicted, with few exceptions, according' to the ceremonial of tS
Buddhist sect to which his family belongs^ It is only in recent years
J-eJ^prni ^"^f '^^g *° the .tncient ritual of the Shintoists has been
leaved, after almost total disuse during some twelve centuries This
i'wtriT-''?°"'v°"'' «?^f^itio^ of things is to be explained by the fact
.bat the Shinto religion demands little more of its adherents than a %-isit
Wpir ?^ ''^^ ^^^ o^cfio^ of the annual festival, and does not
piotess to teach any theory ol the destiny of man, or of moral duty thus
eavmg the greater part of the held fi-ee to the imests of Buddha,' with
their apparatus ot theological dogma aided by splendid rites Tmd
STr'" '^t^"^'^^^^^^; Multitudinous as are its own deities, Buddhism
.ound no difhculty in receiving those of the indigenous behef into its
pantheon, this toleration having been pre'dously displayed ^ith regard
38 Iiitrududion : — The SJiinio Religion.
to Hindu deities and other mythological beings. In most cases it was
.pretended that the native Shinto gods {Kami) were merely avatars of
some Budilhist deity (Ilotoke) ; and thns it was possible for those who
became converts to the foreign doctrine to coutiniTe to believe in and oHer
np jH'ayers to their ancient gods as before.
Shinto is a compound of natm-e-worship and ancestor-A\-orship. It
has gods and goddesses of the Avind, the ocean, tire, food, and pesti-
lence, of mountains and rivers, of certain special mountains, certain
rivers, certain trees, certain temples, — eight hundred m>Tiads of deities in
all. Chief among these is Ama-terasu, the radiant (loddess of the Sun,
born from the left eye of Izanagi, the Creator of Japan, while fi'om his
right eye was produced the C^od of the Moon, and from his nose the
Aiolent (jod Susa-no-o, who subjected his sister to various indignities and
Mas chastised accordingly. The Sun-(ioddess was the ancestress of the
line of heaven-descended !lIikatlos, who have reigned in unbroken siicces-
sion from the beginning of the world, and are themselves gods ujion
earth. Hence the Sun-Goddess is honoured above all the rest, her shrine
at Ise being the Mecca of Japan. Other shrines hold other gods, the
deified ghosts of princes and heroes of eld, some coiumanding a wide
popularity, others known only to narrow local fame, most of thorn tended
by hereditary families of priests believed to be lineal descendants either of
the god himself or of his chief servant. From time to time new names
are added to the j^antheon. The present reign has witnessed several
instances of such apotheosis.
Shintd has scarcely any regular services in which the people take
part, and its priests (kanmishi) arc not distinguishable by their appearance
fi-om ordinary laymen. Only when engaged in presenting the morning
and evening offerings do they wear a peculiar dress, which consists of
a long loose gown with wide sleeves, fastened at the waist with a
girdle, and sometimes a black caji bound round the head with a broad
white fillet. The priests are not bound by any vows of celibacy, and
retiun the option of adopting another career. At some temples young
girls fill the office of priestesses ; but their duties do not extend beyond
the performance of the pantomimic dances known as kagura, and assis-
tance in the presentation of the daily offerings. They likewise are tinder
no vows, and many as a matter of course. The services consist in the pre-
sentation of small trays of i-ice, fish, fruits, vegetables, rice-beer, and the
flesh of birds and aninuds, and in the recital of certain formal addresses
(norito), partly laudatory and partly in the nature of petitions. The style
of composition employed is that of a very remote period, and ^roiUd not
be comprehended by the common people, even it the Latter were in the
habit of taking any jmrt in the ritual. With moral teaching, Shinto does
not profess to concern itself. '" Follow your natural imjiulses, and obey
the ilikado's decrees : " — such is the siim of its theory of human duty.
Preaching forms no x^art of its institutions, nor are the rewards and
pimishments of a future life used as incentives to right conduct. The
continued existence of the dead is believed in ; but whether it is a condi-
tion of joy or jjain, is nowhere revealed.
Shinto is a Chinese word meaning " the Way of the Gods," and was
first adopted after the introduction of Buddhism to distinguish the native
beliefs and practices from those of the Indian religion. Shinto has several
sects, — the Honkyoku, the Kurozumi Kyo, etc ; biit these divisions do not
obtrude themselves on public notice. Practically the cidt may be regaided
as one .and homogeneous.
The architecture of Shintd teiuples is extremely simple, and the mate-
TIw Hhinto EeUgion. 39
rial used is plain ■white wood \ntli a tliatcb of chain;Kcyparis bark. Tlie
annexed plan of the Great Temi^le of Izimio {Izumo no 0-yo.shiro).
taken froiii a native drawing sold to pilgrims, and printed on Jaixanese
paper, will serve to exemplify this style of architecture. Few Shinto
temples, however, are quite so elaborate as this, the second holiest in the
Empire. We find then : —
1. The Main Shrine {lionsUa or lionden), which is divided into two
chambers. The rear chamber contains the emblem of the god (mi-tama-
shiro), — a mirror, a sword, a curious stone, or some other object, — and is
always kept closed, while in the ante-chamber stands a wand from which
depend strips of white paper ujohei) intended to rejiresent the cloth
offerings of ancient times. The muTor v/hich is seen in front of not a
few temples was borrowed from the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and has
nothing to do with the Shinto Sun-Goddess, as is often supposed.
2. An Oratory (haiden) in front of the main l^uilding, with which it
is sometimes, but not in the case of the Izumo temi^le, connected by
3. A Corridor or Gallery {ai-no-7na). A gong often hangs over the
entrance of the Oratory, for the worshipper to attract the attention of the
god, and beneath stands a large Vjox to receive contributions.
4. A Cistern (nii-tarashi), at which to wash the hands before prayer.
5. A low Wall, or rather Fence {tama-gaki, lit. jewel hedge), enclosing
the chief temple buildings.
B. A second Enclosing Fence, often made of boards and therefore
termed ita-gaki.
7. A peculiar Gateway (torii) at the entrance to the grounds. Some-
times there are several of these gateways. Their origin and signification
are alike iinloiown. The presence of the torii is the easiest sign whereby
to chstinguish a Shinto from a Buddhist temple.
8. A Temple Office (shamusho), where the business of the temple is
transacted, and where some of the priests often reside.
9. Secondary Shrines [sessha or jnassha) scattered about the grounds,
and dedicated, not to the deity worshijiped at the main shrine, but to
other members of the crowded pantheon.
10. A Library (bunko). This item is generally absent.
11. A Treasure-house (hozd).
12. One or more Places for Offerings (shinsenjo).
13. A Gallery (kicaird).
1-4. A Dancing-stage (bugaku-dni). A more usual form of this is the
kagura-do, or stage for the performance of the kagura dance.
15. A Stable in which is kept the Sacred Horse (jiinme). nsnally an
albino.
16. An Assembly Hall. This is generally missing.
17. Gates.
Frequently there is some object of minor sanctity, such as a holy well
or stone, a tree of odd shape or unusual size, the image of the bull on
which the god Tenjin rode, etc.
The curiously jn-ojecting ends of the rafters on the roof of the lionsha
are termed cidgi. The cigar-shaped logs are termed katsuogi. Both these
ornaments are derived fi-om the architecture of the primitive Japanese
hut, the katsuogi having anciently served to keep in place the two trunks
forming the ridge of the roof. The temple gi'ounds are usiially suiTounded
by a gi'ove of trees, the most common among which is the cryptomeria, a
useful timber tree. These plantations were originally intended to supply
materials for the repair or re-erection of the buildings ; but in many cases
40 Introduction : — T/ie Shinto Religion.
their great antiquity causes a sacred character to be attributed to the
oldest trees, which are surrounded by a fillet of straw rope, as if to show
that they are tenanted by a divine spirit.
The two figures with bows and arrows, seated in niches right and left
of the gate to keep guard over the approach to the temple, are called
Zuijin, or " Attendants," more popularly Yn-daijin, or " Ministers with
Arrows." The stone figures of dogs, — or lions, as some suppose them to
be, — which are often found in temple grounds, are called Ama-inn and
Koma-imi, lit. "the Heavenly Dog" and " the Korean Dog." They are
credited with the power of driving off demons.
Very often a large straw-rope, peculiarly twisted [slibvc-naica) is to be
seen before the entrance to a Shinto shrine, and sometimes in other
places. This, too, is credited with power to avert evil, more especially
small-pox, cholera, and other infectious diseases.
For the go-hei, or paper emblems, see Glossary at the end of this
Introduction.
The distinction between what are termed respectively Eyobu and Pure
Shintd arose from the fact that the doctrines of metempsychosis and
universal perfectibility taught by Buddhism naturally made it tolerant of
other creeds, and willing to afford hospitality to their gods in its own
pantheon. Hence the early Buddhist teachers of the Japanese nation
were led to regard the aboriginal Shinto gods and goddesses as incarnations
or avatars— the Japanese term is f/oji^en, signifying literally "temporary
manifestations" — of some of the many myriads of Buddhas. Thus was
formed a mixed system, known as liyobu Shinto or i::-hin-Bulsu Konkd, which
lasted throughout the Middle Ages. For a thousand y^ears the service of
most of the Shinto temples, except Ise and Izumo, was performed by
Buddhist priesls, and the temple architecture was deeply affected by Biid-
dhist (that is, Indian) principles, — witness the elaborate carvings, the form
of the two-storied samwon, or outer gate, and even the pagoda itself , which,
though essentially Buddhistic, was found in the most popular Shinto
shrines. In several cases, for instance Kompira and Hachiman, the so-
called Shinto deities worshipped were probably unknown in pre-Buddhist
ages, and owed their origin to priestly ingenuity. This cmious state of
things began to totter more than a century ago, under the attacks of a
school of enthusiastically patriotic literati who re%'ived the ancient
traditions of "pure Shinto." When the revolution of 18G8 occurred, and
restored the Mikado's authority, these old traditions, amongst which the
divine right of the sovereign was one of the most important, became
paramount. It was for a time hoped that Buddliism might be suppressed,
and Shinto estabUshed as the sole national religion ; but the extreme party
was in the end not allowed to have its way. The reform was limited to
the complete separation of the two religions, and the Buddhist priests were
expelled from the Shinto temples, which they had so long " contaminated"
by their sway. All buildings, such as pagodas, belfi'ies, and richly
decorated shrines, that did not properly belong to the Shinto establishment
were removed, many precious structures being thus destroyed by " purify-
ing " zeal. In consequence of all this, the modern visitor to Japan loses
much that deUghted the eyes of those who came a quarter of a century
ago. To quote but a single example, the temple of Hachiman at
Kamakura has been despoiled of its chief beauty. On the other hand, he
has better opportunities for familiarising himself with the style of " pure
Shinto," which, if severely simple, is at least uniqtie in the world, one of
the few things Japanese not borrowed from China.
Japanese Buddhism. 41
2]. — Japanese Buddhism.
Buddhism, in its Chinese form, first entered Japan via Korea in the
6th century of the Christian era, the first Japanese pagoda having been
erected about A. D. 584 by one Soga-no-Iname. The Constantine of Japa-
nese Buddhism was Shotoku Taishi, prince regent under the Empress
Suiko (A.D. 593-621), from whose time many of the most celebrated tem-
ples date. Thenceforward, though Shinto was never entirely suppressed.
Buddhism became for centuries the popular national religion, appealing
as it did to the deepest instincts of the human heart, both by its doctrine
and by its ritual, in a way which Shinto could never emulate. Buddhism
was adopted by the very llikados, descendants of the Shintd Goddess of
the Sun. During the 6th, 7th, and 8th centuries, Korean and Chinese
monks and nuns visited Japan for purposes of proselytism, much as
Christian missionaries visit it to-day. From the 8th century onwards, it
became more usual for the Japanese monks to visit China, in order to
study the doctrines of the best-accredited teachers at the fountain-head.
From these historical circumstances results the general adhesion of the
Japanese Buddhists to the Chinese, Northern, or " Greater Vehicle " school
of that religion (Sanskrit, Mahdydna ; Jap. Daijo), in whose teachings the
simple morality of Southern Buddhism, as practised in Ceylon and Siam,
is overlaid with many mystical and ceremonial observances. It must not
be supposed, however, that all Japanese Buddhists agree among them-
selves. Bviddliism was already over a thousand years old when introduced
into this archipelago, and Chinese Buddhism, in particular, was spKt into
numerous sects and sub-sects, whose quarrels took new root on Japanese
soil. Some of the Chinese sects of that early day still survive ; such are
the Tendai and the Sh'mgon. Others, notably the Nkhiren and Shin sects,
are later Japanese developments. The following are the chief denomina-
tions existing at the present day, classed in the order of their numerical
importance : —
, Rinzai (10 sub-sects).
Zen, divided into-j Soto.
Obaku.
Shin or Monio (10 sub-sects).
Shingon (2 sub-sects).
Jodo (2 sub-sects).
JVichiren or Hokke (8 sub-sects).
Tendai (3 sub-sects).
The points in dispute between the sects are highly metaphysical and
technical, — so much so that Sir Ernest Satow, speaking of the Shingon
sect, asserts that its " whole doctrine is extremely difficult to comprehend,
and more difficult to put into intelligible language." Of another sect he
tells us that its " highest truths are considered to be incomprehensible,
except to those who have attained to Buddhaship."*
* The following may serve as a specimeu of the difficulties to be encountered in
this study : — "The doctrine of the sect is compared to a piece of cloth, in which the
teaching of Shaka is the warp, and the interpretation or private judgment of the
individual, corrected by the opinion of other mouks, is the woof. It is held that
there is a kind of intuition or perception of truth, called Shin-gyO, suggested by the
words of scripture, but transcending them in certainty. This is said to be in
harmony with the thought of Shaka. The entirety of doctrine, however, results in
one central truth, namely that Nirviina is the final result of existence, a state in
which the thinking substunce, while remaining individual, is unaftected by anything
42 Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism.
Under these circumstances, the general reader %vill perhajis do best
simply to fix in his mind the following few cardinal facts : — that
Biiddhism arose in India, some say in tlie 7th, others in the 11th, centnry
before Christ ; that its founder was the Buddha Shaka ilnni, a prince of
the blood royal, who. disenchanted first of worldly pleasures and then of
the austeiities which he practised for long years in the Himalayan
wilderness under the guidance of the most self-denj'ing anchorites of
his time, at length felt dawn on his mind the truth that all happiness
and salvation come fi-om within. — come from the recognition of the
impermanence of all phenomena, fi'om the extinction of desire which
is at the root of life, life itself being at the root of all sorrow and
imperfection. Asceticism still reigned supreme ; but it M-as asceticism
rather of the mind than of outward observances, and its ultimate object
was absorption into Nirvana, which some interpret to mean annihilation,
while others describe it as a state in which the thinMug substance, after
numerous transmigi'ations and progi-essive sanctification, attains to
})erfect beatitude in serene tranquillity. Neither in China nor in Japan
has practical Buddhism been able to maintain itself at these philosophic
heights ; but by the aid of hohen, or pious devices, the priesthood has
played into the hands of poiiular superstition. Here as elsewhere there
have been evolved charms, amulets, pilgiimages, and gorgeous temple
services, in which people woi-ship not only the Buddha who was himself
an agnostic, but his disciples and even such abstractions as Amida,
which are mistaken for actual divine personages.
Annexed is the plan of the temple of Hommonji at Ikegami near
Tokyo, which may be regardetl as fairly typical of Japanese Buddhist
architecture. The roofing of these temples is generally of tiles, forming
a contrast to the primitive thatch of Shinto places of worship. The chief
features are as follows :
1. The Samvion, or two-storied Gate, at the entrance to the temple
enclosure.
2. The Ema-do, or Ex-voto Hall, also called Qaku-dn.
3. The Shoro, or Belfry.
4. The Hondo, or Main Temple.
5. The Soshi-do, or Founders Hall, dedicated to Nichiren, the
founder of the sect to which this temple belongs.
6. The TaJto-to, or Pagoda-shaped Reliquary, containing portions of
Nichiren's body, hence also called Eotsu-do-, or Hall of the Bones.
7. The liinzo, or Revolving Library, liolding a complete copy of the
Buddhist canon.
external, and is consequently devoid of feeling, thought, or passion. To this the
name of Mu-i (Asa/dskj-ita) is given, s^ignifying absolute, unconditioned existence.
When this is spoken of as annihilation, it is the annihilation of conditions, not of the
substance, that is meant. Pushed to it.s logical result, this would appear to the
ignorant (i.e. the unregenerate) to amount to the same thing as non-existence : but
here we are encountered by one of those mysteries which lie at the foundation of all
religious belief, and which must be accepted without questioning, if there is to be
any spiritual religion at all. A follower of Herbert Spencer would probably object
that this is an ' illegitimate symbolical conception.'
"Ignorant and obtuse minds are to be taught by hohen, that is, by the presenta-
tion of truth under a form suited to their capacity. For superior intellects Shaka,
quitting the symbolic teaching appropriate to the vernacular understanding, revealed
the truth in itself. Whoever can apprehend the Ten Abstract Truths in their proper
order may, after four successive births, attain to perfect Buddhaship, while the in-
ferior intelligence can only arrive at that condition after 100 Kalpas, or periods of
time transcending calculation." — (S.\tow.)
AO.I)": =IO ajSM3T T2i
l\
-f <^sm.^l^--r-f
^
••■ {^^
I
Jo pa 1 1 e^i' B uddh is n i .
43
8. The Hojo, also called Slioin or Zashiki, the Priests' Apartruents.
9. The Kyaku-den, or Reception Eooms.
10. The IIozo, or Treasure-house.
11. The Dai-dokoro, or Kitchen.
12. The Chozu-bachi, or Cistern for washing the hands before worship.
13. The Drum-tower (Kord).
14. The Pagoda {Go-ju no to).
15. Stone Lanterns (Ishi-ddro), presented as offerings.
All temples do not possess a Founder's Hall, and very few possess a
Taho-to or a Rinzn. In the temples of the Monto or Hongwanji sect,
which almost always comprise two principal edifices, the larger of the two
unites in itself the functions of Main Temple and Foiinder's Hall, while
the lesser, with which it is connected Ijy a c-overed gallery, is sometimes
specially dedicated to Amidu, the deity chiefly worshipped l)y this sect,
and is sometimes i^sed for preaching sermons in, whence the name of
Jiki-dd, or Eefectory, alluding to the idea that sermons are food for the
soul. A set of Buddhist buildings, with pagoda, belfry, etc., aU complete,
is often called a Shichi-do Garan. The termination ji, which occiu's in so
many tenqJe names, means " Buddhist temple " in Chinese ; the current
Japanese word is iera. Most Biiddhist temples have alternative names
ending in san and in.
Many temples have what is called an Oku-no-in. — a Holy of Holies,
so to sa3% which is generally situated behind the main shrine, and
often a long way up the mountain at whose foot
buildings cluster. Most Oku-no-in are less highly
the temples to which they belong ; some indeed
^_^^^ Where Shinto influence has prevailed,
termed Oku-shu. Sometimes there is an inter-
niechate shrine called Chil-in or Chu-slm.
The ceremony of throwing open to the
gaze of worshippers the shrine which holds
the image of the patron saint is called
Kai-cho, and is usually accomjjanied by a
short service. Pictures of the god, together
with holy inscriptions (o fuda) and charms
[mamori), are sold at man}^ temples. The
specimens hei'e ligTu-ed are from the gi-eat
shrine of Fudo at Narita. Sometimes cheap
miniature reprints of Buddhist sutras are
offered for sale, bimdles of straws or sticks
used as counters by those j)prforming what
is termed the Uyaku-do, that is the pious
act c>f walking Tip and clown the temple cotirt
a hundred times, etc., etc. The little wisps
of paper often to be seen on the grating of
minor shrines are tied there by devotees in
token of a vow or a wish, mostly connected
mth the tender passion. The flocks of doves
seen fluttering about many temple coiirts are
not objects of worship. They simply take
up their home where piety secures them from
^ifpi molestation. >
^1ly\r^ An object frequently seen in Buddhist temple grounds
is the soioba or toba, a coiimx^tion of the Sanskrit stiipa
the other temple
ornamented than
are mere sheds,
the Oku-no-iu is
44
Introduciion : — Gods and Goddei^ses.
(" tope "), which "was originally a memorial erected over the remains of
an Mdian saint. In Japan it assumes two forms, one being a thin
stick, notched and often inscribed with Sanskrit characters, the other a
stone monument in common use as a ga-aye-stone, where the com-
ponent elements of the structure are more clearly indicated. They are
the ball, crescent, pyramid, sphere, and cube, symbohsing respectively
Ether, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. One glance at a soioba is said to
ensure the forgiveness of all sins.
The way up to temples or sacred
moivntains is frequently marked by
oblong stones, like mile-stones, at the
interval of a cho, inscribed as fol-
lows : — Ef]" (or — T"); OI16 cho ; ZlHI,
two cho, etc.
Stones with inscriptions, for
which wooden boards are often sub-
stituted, also serve to commemorate
gifts of money to the temple, or of
trees to ornament the grounds. Irre-
gularly shaped slabs of stone are
mTich prized by the Japanese, who
use them as monumental tablets.
All the famous holy places have
subsidiary or representative temples
(utsusld or de-hari) in vaiioTis parts
of the empire, for the convenience of
those worshippers who cannot make
the actual pilga-image. The shrine
of the Narita Fudo at Asakusa in
T5kyo is a familiar example.
One, alas ! of the characteristic
features of the Buddhist temples of
to-day is the decay into which most
of them have fallen, not because of
any general conversion to Christianity, but owing to the disendowment
of the priesthood and the materiaUstic tendencies of the age. The wooden
architecture of Japan, so attractive when fresh, at once becomes dowdy
and ramshackle under neglect,— not venerable like the stone ruins of
Europe.
22. — List of Gods and Goddesses.
THE SOTOBA
(in its iico shapes)
The following are the most popular deities, Buddhist and Shinto.
They are placed together in one Ust, because throughout Japanese history
there has been more or less confusion between the two religions : —
AizEN My6-6, a deity represented with a fierce expression, a flaming
halo, three eyes, and six arms. Nevertheless he is popularly regarded as
the God of Love. Anderson describes him as " a transformation of
Atchala the Insatiable."
Ama-terasxj, lit. "the Heaven-Shiner," that is, the Sun-Goddess.
Born from the left eye of the Creator Izanagi, when the latter was
performing his ablutions on returning from a visit to his dead wife Iza-
nami in Hades, the Sun-Goddess was herseK the ancestress of the
Imperial Family of Japan. I'he most striking episode in her legend is
Gods and Goddesses.
4&
'I he origin
kaijxtra is
the native
which the
that in which she is insulted by her
brother Susa-no-o, and retires in high
dudgeon to a cavern, thus phmging the
whole world in darkness. All the other
gods and goddesses assemble at the cavern's
mouth, with music and dancing. At length
curiosity lures her to the door, and she
is finally enticed out by the sight of her
own fair image in a mirror, which one
of the gods pushes towards her.
of the sacred dances called
traced to this incident by
literati. Other names Tinder
Sun-Goddess is known are Sh'vmmei, Ten
iShoko Da'ijln, and IJinjingic.
Amida (Sanskrit, AmUabh'i), a powerful
deity dwelling in a lovely paradise to the
west. Originally Amida was an abstrac-
tion, — the ideal of boundless light. His
image may generally be recognised by the
hands lying on the lap, with the thumbs
placed end to end. Very often, too, the
halo (golcd) forms a background, not only to
the head but to the entire body, and is then
termed funa-goko, from its resemblance in
shape to a boat. The spot on the forehead
is emblematical of wisdom. The great im-
age {Daibuisu) at Kamakura represents this deity.
seishi are often
lowers of Amida. — 'Ihe name Amula is
^ sometimes shortened to Mida.
""'-—rOv Anan (Sansla-it, AwiwJa), one of
v^J Buddha's cousins and earliest converts.
He is often called Tamon (^^fl), lit.
"hearing much," on accoiint of his
extensive loiowledge and wonderful
memory, — a name which is also applied
to Bishamon.
Atago, a god worshipped as the
protector of towns against fire. He
is an avatar of the Creatress Izanami
and of her last-born child Ho-musubi
(also called Kagu-tsuchi), the Shinto
god of fire, whose entry into the world
caused her death.
Bknten, or Benzaiten, one of the
Seven Deities of Luck. She is often
represented riding on a serpent or
dragon, whence perhaps the sacred
character attributed in many localities
to snakes. Benten's shrines are most-
ly situated on islands.
BiNzuEU, originally one of the
" Sixteen Kakan," was expelled from
Kwannon and Dai-
represented as fol-
46
Inlrodudion : — God.s and Goddessif
tbeir number iov having violnteil his vow of chastity by reniarking \\\wn
the beauty of a female, whence the usual situation of his image outside the
sanctum. It is also said that Budilha conferred on him the power to cure
all human ills. For this reason, believers rub the image of Binzurii on
that part which may be causing them pain in their own bodies, and
then rub themselves in the hope of obtaining relief ; and thus it comes
about that such images we often found with the limbs partly M'orn away.
and the features nearly obliterated. Binzuru is a highly popular object
of worship A\'ith the lower classes, and his image is often to he seen
adorned by his devotees with a red or jellow cotton hood, a bib and
mittens.
BisHAMox (Sanskrit, Vdisvirnmia), explivined in Eitel's Hand-hook of
Chinese Buddhism as the God of Wealth, has been adopted by the Japanese
as one of their Seven Gods of Luck, with the special characteristic of
impersonating war. Hence he is represented as clad in armour and
bearing a spear, as well sis a toy jiagoda.
BoNTEX, Brahma.
BosATsu (Sanskrit, Bodhisaitva), the general title of a large class of
Buddhist saints, who ha^e only to pass through one more human existence
before attaining to Buddhahood. The " Twenty-Five Bosatsu " (NL-jfi-go
Bosatsu), specially worshipped and frequently represented in art, are sup-
poseil to be sent bj"^ Buddha himself as giiarthan spirits to watch over
earnest behevers. The list includes Kwannon, Daiseishi, Fugen, Kokuzo,
and a number of less well-known di^inities.
BuTsu, see Ilotoke.
Daikoku, the God of Wealth, may be Icnown by his rice-bales. Popular
Japanese art, which exhibits little awe of things divine, represents these
bales being nibbled at by a rat.
Daixichi Nyobai (Sanskrit, VCiirutchana TatliCujatu) is one of the
persons of the Triratna, or Buddhist Trinity, the personification of wisdom
and of absolute purit}^ He is
popiilarly confounded with Fudo,
the images of the two lieing diffi-
cult to fUstinguish.
Daiseishi or Seishi, a Bosatsu
belonging to the retinue of
Amida.
Daishi, a title which i.^
jipplied to many Buddhist abbots
and saints. It means either "Great
Teacher." or "Perfected Saint"
(vSanskiit Malidsatlva), according
to the Chinese characters used to
write it.
Daeuma (Sanskrit, Dharma),,
a deified Indian Buddhist patriarch
of the 6th century, who sat for
nine years in profound abstrac-
tion till his legs rotted away and
fell off.
DAEUMA. D6.SOJIN, the God of Roads.
Ebisu, one of the Gods of
liuck, is the patron of honest lalwur. He bears in his hand a fishing-rod
and a /ai-fish.
Go(h and Goddesses.
4T
Emma-0 (Sanskiit, Ydmn-rdja), the regent of the Buddhist hells.
He may be known by his cap resembling a jiidge's beret, and by the huge
c#M£
EMMA-O.
mace in his right hand. Before him often sit two myrmidons, one of
whom holds a pen to Avrite dov.-n the sins of hnuian beings, while the
other reads ont the list of their offences from a scroll.
Fu-Daishi, a deified Chinese priest of the 6th century, is represented
in art seated between his tv/o sons Fuken and Fnjo, who clap their hands
and lar.gh, and hence are popularly Icnown as Warn-^)Oioke, or the Laugh-
ing Br.ddhas. Fn-Daishi is the reputed inventor of the Fanzo, or Eevolving
Library, which is attached to some Buddhist temples. It is a recei^tacle
large enough to hold a complete collection of the Buddhist scriptixres, but
turning so easily on a pivot as to be readily made to revolve by one
vigorous push. A native authority says : " Owing to the voiuminousness
of the sutras, — 6,771 volumes, — it is impossible for any single individual to
read them through, l^ut a degree of merit equal to that accruing to him
^^■ho should have perused the entire canon, may be obtained by those who
will cause this Library to revolve three times on its axis ; and moreover
long life, prosperity, and the ;',voidance of all misfortunes shall be their
reward."
48
Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses.
FUDO
WITH SEITAKA AND KONGAEA DOJI.
EuDO (SaBskrit, Achala). Mucli
obscurity hangs over tbe origin and
attributes of this popular divinity.
According to Monier Williams,
A eh tin, y^hicl^ means "immovable"
{Fadd 7f.<t^}j translates this meaning
exactly), is a name of tlie Brahminic-
al god Siva and of the tirst of the
nine deitied persons called " white
Balas" among the Jainas. Satow
says: — " Fudo (Akshnra) is identilied
with Dainichi (Vaiio.tana), the God
of Wisdom, which quality is sym-
bolised by the flames which surround
him : it is a common error to suppose
that he is the God of Fire. Accorthng
to the popular view, the sharp sword
which he grasps in the right hand
is to frighten evil-doers, while in his
left hand he holds a rope to bind
them with." — Fudo is generally re-
presented in art attended by his two
chief followers, Seitaka Doji and
Kongara Doji.
FuGKN (Sanskrit, Samantahhadra)
is the special divine patron of those
who practise the Ilokke-znrimiai, a
species of ecstatic meditation. His
image is generally seated on the
right hand of Shaka.
FuKUKOKTJJu, one of the Gods of
Luck, is distinguished by a preter-
naturally long head, and typifies
longevity and wisdom.
Go-CHI Nyobai, the Five Bud-
dhas of Contemplation or of Wisdom,
viz., Yakushi, 'I'aho, Dainichi, Ashu-
ku, and Shaka. But some authori-
ties make a different enumeration.
GoNGEN. This is not the name
of any special divinity, but a general
term used in Eyobii Shinto (see p.
4U) to denote siich Shinto gods as
are considered to be " temporary
manifestations," that is, avatars or
incarnations of Buddhas. It is,
however, applied with special fre-
quency to leyasu, the deified founder
of the Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns,
who is the Gongen Sama, that is,
Lord Gongen pa7- excellence.
Gwakko Bosatsu, a Buddhist
lunar deity.
Hachiman, the Chinese_ name
under which the Emi)eror Ojin is
Gods and Goddesses.
49
worsliipped as the God of War, the Japanese equivalent being Yawata
The reason for this particular form of apotheosis is not apparent, as no
warlike exploits are recounted of the monarch in question. Perhaps it
may be owing to the tradition that his mother, the Empress Jingo
earned him tor three years in her womb whilst maldng her celebrated
raid upon Korea. Another explanation, suggested by Sir Ernest Satow,
IS that his high position m the pantheon resulted from the fact of his
having been the patron of the powerful and warlike Minamoto clan
HoTEi^ one of the Seven Gods of Luck, typilies contentment and good-
nature. He IS represented m art with an enormous naked abdomen
_ HoTOKE, the general name of all Buddhas, that is, gods or perfected
saints of popular Buddhism. The dead are also often spoken of as
Ida Ten (Sanskrit, Veda luija), a
protector of Buddhism, generally
represented as a strong and
handsome youth.
Inabi, the Goddess of Eice,
also called Uga-no-Mitama. The
image of the fox, which is always
found in temples dedicated to
Inaii, seems to have been first
placed there as a tribute to the
fear which that wily beast in-
spires ; but in popular super-
stition, Inari is the fox-deity.
There is some confusion with
regard to the sex of Inari, who
is occasionally represented as a
bearded man.
IzANAGi and IzANAMi, the Crea-
tor and Creatress of Japan. The
curious though indelicate legend
of their courtship, the striking legend
of the descent of Izanagi into Hades
to visit Izanami after the latter's
death and burial, and the account of
Izanagi's lustrations, will be found in
pp. _ 18-43 of the translation of the
Kojiki, forming the Supplement to
Vol. X. of the Transactions of the
Asiatic Society of Japan.
Jizo (Sanskrit, Kshitigarhha), the
compassionate Buddhist helper of
those who are in trouble. He is the
patron of travellers, of pregnant wo-
men, and of cliildren. His image is
often heaped with pebbles, which serve
in the other world to relieve the labours
of the young who have been robbed of
their clothes by the hag named Sho-
zuka no Baba, and then set by her
to perform the entUess task of piling up
stones on the bank of Sai-no-Kawara,
50 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses.
the BitdcUiist Styx. Jizo ii? represented as a shaven priest with a bene-
volent countenance, holding in one hand a jewel, in the other a
staff with metal rings {.ihakujo). His stone image is found more
frequently than that of any other object of worshiiJ throughout the
empu'e. It need scarcely be said that the resemblance in sound
between the names Jizd and Jesus is quite fortuitous.
JuKOJiN, one of the Gods of Lxick, often represented as accomi^anied
by a stag and a crane.
Kami, a general name for all Shinto gods and goddesses.
Kaseo (Sanskrit, KCisyapa), one of Buddha's foremost (hsciples. He
is said to have swallowed the sun and moon, in conse<iuence whereof his
body became radiant like gold.
KisHi BojiN, the Indian goddess ITariil or Aritl, was originally a
woman, who, having sworn to devour all the children at Kajagriha, the
metropolis of Buddhism, was born again as a demon and gave birth to five
hundred children, one of Avhom she was bound to devour every day. She
was converted by Buddha, and entered a nunnery. The Japanese wor-
ship her as the protecti'ess of children. She is represented as a beauti-
ful \\oman, caiTying a child, and holding a pomegi-anate in one hand.
The lanterns and other ornaments of the temples dedicated to her are
marked with the crest of the pomegranate. This emblem illustrates the
curious turns sometimes tidcen by popular legend. 'The red h\ie of the
pomegranate might suggest to natural fancy red blood and hence human
llesh. But we are told that Buddha cured the woman of cannibalism
by a diet of pomegranates, because that fruit resembles human flesh in
taste. Tlie offerings brought to her shrine by bereaved mothers are such
as may well touch any heart,— the dresses, dolls, and other mementos of
their lost darlings.
KoKUzo BosATSC (Sanskrit, Alaisha Bodhisattcn), an infinitely wise
female saint, who dwells in s^jace.
KoMPiEA (Sanslait, Kumblnra). Much obscurity shrouds the origin
and nattire of thif highly popular divinity. According to some he is a
demon, the crocodile or alligator of the Ganges. Others aver that Shaka
]Muni (Buddha) himself became " the boy Kompira," in order to over-
come the heretics and enemies of religion who jjressed iipon him one day
as he was preaching in " the Garden of Delight,"- the said " boy
Kompira " having a body 1,000 ft. long, provided with 1,000 heads and
1,0C0 arms. The mediaeval Shintoists identified Kompira with Susa-no-o,
brother of the Japanese Sun-Goddess. More recently it has been de-
clared, on the part of the Shintd authorities whose cause the Government
espouses in all such disjiutes, that the Inchau Kompira is none other
than Kotohira, a hitherto obscure Japanese deity
whose name has a convenient similarity in sound.
Consequently the great Buddhist shrine of Komjiira
in the island of Shikoku, and all the other shrines
erected to Kompira throughout the country, have
been claimed and taken over as Shinto property.
Komx)ii'a is a special object of devotion to seamen
and travellers.
KosHiN, a deification of that day of the month
which corresponds to the 57th term of the Chinese
sexagesimal circle, and is called in Japanese Ka-no-e
Sura. This being the day of the Monkey, it is
(koshin) represented by three monkeys {sam-hiki-zaru) called
Gods and Goddesses.
51
52 I)if rod action : — Crods and Goddesses.
respectively, l>y a pla^' upon words, mi-zaru, kika-zaru, and iwa-zarxi,
that is, " the blind monkey," " the deaf monkey," and " the dumb
monkey." Stone slabs with these three monkeys in rehef are among the
most iTSual objects of devotion met with on the roadside in the rural
districts of Japan, the idea being that this curious triad will neither see,
hear, nor speak any evil.
Ktjni-toko-tachi, lit. " The Earthly Eternally Standing One."
This deity, with Izanagi, Izanami, and four others, helps to form what are
termed " the Seven Divine Generations " ( Tenjin Shk-hi-dai).
KwAMNON, or more fully Kwanze-oa Dai .Bosafsu^Sanskrit, Avalokltes-
rara), the Goddess of Mercy, who contemplates the world and listens to
the prayers of the unhappy. According to another but less favomite
opinion, Kwannon belongs to the male sex. Kwannon is rejaresented
luider various forms — many-headed, headed like a horse, thousand-handed.
With reference to the images of this deity, it should be stated that the
so-called Thousand-Handed Kwannon has in reahty but forty hands
which hold out a number of Buddhist emblems, such as the lotus-tlower,
the wheel of the law, the sun and moon, a skiill. a pagoda, and an axe, —
this last serving to typify severance from all woi'ldly cares. A pair of
hands folded on the image's lap holds the bowl of the mendicant jiriest.
The Horse-Headed Kwannon has three faces and four pairs of arms, a
horse's head being carved above the forehead of the central face. One
of the foui' pairs of arms is clasped before the breast in the attitude
called Eenge no In, emblematical of the lotus-flower. Another pair holds
the axe and wheel. Yet another pair grasps two forms of the tokko
(Sanskrit, vcijra), an ornament originally designed to represent a dia-
mond club, and now used by priests and exorcists as a religious sceptre
symbolising the irresistible xjower of prayei', meditation, and incantation.
Of the fourth pair of hands, the left holds a cord wherewith to bind the
wicked, W'hile the right is stretched out open to indicate almsgiving or
succour to the weak and. erring. A title often apphed to Kwannon is
JSyo-i-rin, properly the name of a gem which is supposed to enable its
possessor to gratify all his desu'es, and which may be approximately
rendered by the adjective " omnijootent."
The two figures often represented on either side of Kwannon are
Fudd and Aizen Myo-6. The " Twenty-eight Followers " of Kwannon
{Ni-ju-hachi Bushu), — favomite subjects of the Japanese sculptor and
painter, — are personifications of the twenty-eight constellations known to
Far-Eastern astronomy. The various forms represented in the accom-
panying illustration are :
1. Sho-Kioannon (Kvrannon the Wise).
2. Ji'i-ichi-men Kivannon (Eleven-Faced).
3. Sen-ju Kwannon (Thousand-Handed).
4. Ba-to Kwannon (Horse-Headed),
o. Nyo-i-rin Kwannon (Omnipotent).
Makishi-ten (Sanskrit, Marlchi) is the iiersonification of light in the
Brahminical theology, and also a name of Krishna. In Chinese and Japa-
nese Buddhism, Maidshi-ten is considered to be the Queen of Heaven,
and is believed by some to have her residence in a star forming part of
the constellation of the Great Bear. She is represented with eight arms,
two of which hold \\^ emblems of the sun and moon.
Maya Bunin, the mother of Buddha.
MrROKtr (Sansla-it, Mditreya), Buddha's successor, — ^the Buddhist
Messiah, whose advent is expected to take place 5,000 years after
Buddha's entry into Nirvana.
Goch and Goddesses.
5'd
MoNJu (Sanskrit, Manjusrl), the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom.
His image is usually seated on the left hand of Shaka.
NiKKo BosATSu, a Buddhist solar deity.
Ni-o, lit " The Two Deva Kings," Indra and Brahma, who keep
guard at the outer gate of temples to scare away demons. One
bears in his hand the ioklco. The figures of the Ni-6 arc of gigantic
size and terrific appearance, and are often bespattered with little pellets
of paper aimed at them by devotees, who think thus to seciire the
accomphshment of some desire on which they have set their hearts.
Nyokai (Sanslait, Tathdgata), an honorific title applied to all
Buddhas. It is compounded of Chinese nyo (;^n), "like," and ?-ai (3^),
" to come," the idea being that a Buddha is one whose coming and going-
are in accordance with the action of his predecessors.
Onamuji or Okuni-nushi, the aboriginal deity of Izumo, who re-
signed his throne in favour of the Mikado's ancestors when they came
down from heaven to Japan. Tie is also worshipped under the titles of
Sanno and Hie.
Oni, a general name for demons, ogTes, or devils, — not " the Devil "
in the singular, as Japanese theology knows nothing of any supreme
Prince of Darlcness.
Rakan (Sanslait, ArhCtn, or Arliai), properly the perfected Arya or
'■ holy man," but used to designate not only the perfected saint, but
all Buddha's immediate disciples, more especially his " Five Hundred
Disciples" {Go-hyaku Bakan), and his "Sixteen Disciples" {Ju-roku
Bakan). Few art-motives are more popular with Japanese painters and
sculptors. The holy men are repi'esented in vari<nas attitudes, many
emaciated and scantily clad.
54
Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses.
RoKu-EU-TEN, a collective name for the Buddhist gods Bonten,
Taishaku, and the Shi-Tenno.
Sakuta-hiko, a Shinto deity who led the van when the divine
ancestors of the Mikado descended to take possession of Japan.
Sengen, the Goddess of Mount Fuji. She is also called Asama or
Ko-no-IIana-Saku-ya-Hime, that is, " the Princess who makes the Flowers
of the Trees to Blossom."
Shaka Muni, the Japanese pronunciation of S'dkya 3Iuni, the name
of the founder of Buddhism, who was also called Gautama and is gene-
rally spoken of by Europeans as " Buddha," though it would be more
correct to say "the Buddha." In his youth he was called Shitta Taishi
(Sanskrit, 8iddhartha). His birth is usually placed by the Chinese and
Japanese in the year 1027 B.C., but the date accepted by European
scholars is 653 B.C. The most accessible account of Buddha's life and
doctrine is that given by Professor Ehys Davids, in his Uttle work entitled
Buddhism, i^ublished by the Society for Promoting Christian Know-
ledge. The entombment of Buddha, with aU creation standing weeping
around, is a favourite motive of Japanese art. Such pictures are called
JSlehan-zo, that is, " Kepresentations of the Entry into Nirvana." The birth
of Buddha (tanjo-Shaka) is also often represented, the great teacher then
appearing as a naked infant with his right hand pointing up and his left
hand down, to indicate the power which he exercises over heaven and
earth. Our illustration gives the most usual form of his image. Though
not unlike that of Amida, it differs from the latter by the position of the
hand and the shape of the halo. The chief festivals of Shaka are on the
8th April (his birthday), and the 15th February (the anniversary of his death).
MONJU.
SHAKA MUNI.
Gods and Goddesses.
55
GODS OF LT'CK (SHKHI FUKVJIN).
56 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses.
Shaeihotsu (Sanskrit, S'driputtra), the wisest of Buddha's ten chief
disciples.
Shichi Fukujin, the Seven Gods of Luck, namely 1, Ebisu ; 2, Dai-
koku ; 3, Benten ; 4, Fukxu-okuju ; 5, Bishamon ; 6, Jurojin ; 7, Hotel.
Shi-Tenno, tiie Four Heavenly Kings, who guard the world against
the attacks of demons, each defenchng one quarter of the horizon. Theii
names are Jikokii, East (Sanskrit, Dhrilarashtra) ; Komoku, South
(Virupdksha) : Zocho, West ( Firwd/iafca) ; and Tamon— also called Bisha-
mon, — North ( Vdisravana or Kuvera). Their images differ from those of
the Ni-o by ha-s-ing weapons in their hands, and generally trampling
demons under foot. Moreover they are placed, not at the outer gate of
temples, but at an inner one.
Shoden. This deity, also called Kwangi-ten, is the Indian Ganesa,
God of Wisdom and Obstacles. " Though he causes obstacles, he also re-
moves them ; hence he is invoked at the commencement of undertakings.
He is represented as a short, fat man, with a jDrotuberant belly, fre-
quently riding on a rat or attended by one, and to denote his sagacity,
has the head of an elephant, which, however, has only one tusk." (Sir
Monier WUliams.)
Shozuka. no Baba. See Jizo.
SuiTENGU, a sea-god evolved by the popular consciousness from
Varuna the Buddhist Neptune, the Shinto sea-gods of Sumiyoshi near
Osaka, and the boy-emperor jVntoku, who found a watery grave at Dan-no-
ura, in A.D. 1185 (com. p. 70). _
Stjktjna-Bikona, a microscopic god who aided Onamuji to establish
his rule over the land of Izumo, before the descent to earth of the
ancestors of the Mikados.
SusA-NO-o, lit. "the Imi^etuous Male." The name of this deity is
explained by the violent condiict which he exhibited towards his sister,
the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, whom he alarmed so terribly by his mad
freaks that she retired into a cavern. Born from the nose of the Creator
Izanagi, Susa-no-o is considered by some to be the God of the Sea, by
others the God of the Moon. He was the ancestor of the gods or mon-
archs of the province of Izumo, who finally renounced their claims to
sovereignty over any part of Japan in favour of the descendants of the
Sun-Goddess. Inada-Iiime, one of his many Mives, is often associated
with him as an object of worshij). Siisa-no-o is also styled Gozu Tenno,
" the Ox-headed Emj)eror," — a name apparently derived from that of a
certain mountain in Korea where he is supposed to have been worshipped.
The temples dedicated to Susa-no-o are called Gion or Yasaka. The
former are Buddhist or Eyobu Shinto ; the latter are pure Shinto shrines.
Taishaktj, the Brahminical god Indra.
Tamon, see Anan.
Ten, a title suffixed to the names of many Buddhist deities, and
equivalent to the Sanskrit Deva.
Tenjin is the name under which is apotheosised the great minister
and scholar Sugawara-no-ilichizane, who, having fallen a victim to
calumny in A.D. 901, was degi'aded to the post of Vice-President of the
Dazaifu, or Governor-Generalship of the island of Kyushu, at that time a
usual form of banishment for illustrious criminals. He died in exile in
A.D. 903, his death being followed by many portents and disasters to his
enemies. He is worshipped as the God of CaUigraphy, other names for
him being Kan Shojo and Temmangu. He is represented in the robes of
an ancient court noble, and the temples dedicated to him bear in several
places his crest of a conventional plum-blossom, — five circles grouped
Gods and Goddesses. Christian Mission Stations. 57
Toiind a smaller one. A recrimbent image of a cow fi'e(iueiitly adorns the
temple grounds, because Micliizane was wont to ride about on a cow in the
land of his exUe. A plum-tree is also often planted near the temple, that
having been his favourite tree. Indeed, tradition avers that the most
beautifnl plum-tree in his garden at Kyoto flew after him through the air
to Dazaifu, where it is still shown.
Tennin (Sanskrit, Apsaras), Buddhist angels — always of the female
sex. They are represented floating in the air, clothed in bright-coloured
robes that often end in long feathers like the tails of the bird of paradise,
and playing on musical instruments.
TosndGfT, the name under which the great Shogun leyasu, also called
Gongen Sama, is worshipped. It signifies " the 'J'emple (or Prince)
Illuminating the East," in allusion to the fact that leyasu's glory centred
in Eastern Japan.
ToYO-UKE-BiME, also Called Uke-mochi-no-Kami, the Shinto Goddess
of Food or of the Earth. The Nihongi, one of the two principal sources of
Japanese mythology and early history, says that the Sun- Goddess sent
the Moon-God down from heaven to visit Uke-mochi-no-Kami, who,
turning her face successively towards the earth, the sea, and the
mountains, produced from her mouth rice, fish, and game, which she
served up to him at a banquet. The Moon-God took offence at her feeding
him with unclean viands, and drawing his sword, cut off her head. On
his reporting this act to the Sun- Goddess, the latter was very angry, and
secluded herself from him for the space of a day and night. From the
body of the murdered Earth sprang cattle and horses, millet, silkworms,
rice, barley, and beans, which the Sun-Goddess decreed should thenceforth
be the food of the human race. In the Kojlki version of the myth, it is
Susa-no-o who slays the Goddess of Food, and there are other differences
of detail.
Yakushi Nyoeai (Sanslait. Bhaishajyaguru), lit. "the Heahng
Buddha." His name is explained by reference to a prayer, in which he is
called upon to heal in the next life the miserable condition of man's
present existence. The images of this deity are scarcely to be distingui-
shed from those of Shaka.
23. — Christian Mission Stations.
The Roman Catholic Mission in Japan dates from the time of Saint
Francis Xavier, and though Christianity was sternly repressed during the
17th and 18th centuries and down to 1873, the embers continued to
smoulder, especially in the island of Kyiishu. The_ Catholic Church now
has an Archbishop at Tokyd, and Bishops at Osaka, Nagasaki, and
Hakodate, with a total following of nearly 54,000.
The labours of the Protestant Missionaries commenced in 1859. and
a network of mission stations now covers the greater portion of the
Empire. T5kyo and the Open Ports are the head-qiiarters of most of the
denominations, and are, for shortness' sake, not mentioned in the
following list of mission stations, given for the benefit of travellers
interested in Christian work.
The Church of Christ in Japan (Nikon Kirisuto Kyoktcai), which is an
amalgamation of American and Scotch Presbyterian Churches, has the
largest number of members, over 10,000. Stations : — Aomori, Fuktii,
Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Kanazawa, Kochi, Kyoto, Morioka, Nagano,
Nagoya, Okazaki. Osaka, Otaru, Saga, Sapporo, Sendai, Susaki,
58 ' Introduction: — Outline cf Japanese History.
Takamatsu, Takatsuki, Tanabe, Tokushima, Tsu, Ueda, Wakayama,
Yamaguclii.
The Eumi-ai Churches, working in co-operation ■«itli the American
Board's jMission, over 10,000 members. Stations : — Kyoto, ilaebashi,
Matsuyama, Miyazaki, Niigata, Okayama, Osaka, Sapporo, Sendai,
Tstiyama.
The Nippon Sei Kokioai, including the missions of the Church of
England and of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America, 8,300.
Stations : — Aomori, Fiikuoka, Fukuyama, Gifu, Hamada, Hirosaki,
Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Kanazawa, Kokura, Knmamoto, Kushiro, Kyoto,
Maebashi, Matsue, Matsumoto, Nagano, Nagoya, Xara, Nobeoka, Oita,
Osaka, Otaru, Sapporo, Sendai, Tokushima, Tojohashi, Wakayama,
Yonago.
Methodist Churches, 9,"200. Stations : — Fukuoka, Hakodate, Hirosaki,
Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Kanazawa, K5fu, ilatsuyama, Nakatsu, Nagano,
Nagoya, (3ita, Osaka, Sapporo, Sendai, Shizuoka, Uwajima, Yamaguchi.
Baptist Churches, neary 2,000. Stations : — Chofu, Fukuoka, Himeji,
Kokura, ilito, Nemm-o, Osaka, Sendai.
The above stations are those at which foreign missionaries reside.
Native pastors carry on the work at other places. Numerous smaller
denominations, chiefly American, are also represented, the total Pi-otes-
tant population in 1899 aggregating nearly 42,u00.
'rhe Orthodox Biissian Church has a ilourishing mission, whose head-
quarters are at Tokyo, claiming a following of o\ev 25,000.
24. — Outline of Japanese Histuky.
Nothing is known concerning the origin of the Japanese people, or
the period at which they reached their present habitat. The dawn of
trustworthy history, in the 5th century after Christ, finds the ilikados
— Emperors claiming descent from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu —
already governing all Japan except the North, which was still occupied
by the Aino aborigines, and Chinese civilisation beginning to filter into
what had apparently hitherto been a semi-barbarous land. The chief
pioneers of this civilisation were Buddhist priests from Korea. From
that time forward Japanese histoiy consists, broadly speaking, in the
rise of successive great families and chiefs, who, while always pro-
fessing a nominal respect for the divine authority of the ^Mikado,
practically usurp his power and are the de facto rulers of the country.
By the end of the 12th centm-y, the old absolutism had been converted
into a feudalism, of which Yoritomo, the successful chieftain of the
house of ilinamoto family, became the acknowledged head under the
title of Shogun, which closely con:esi)onds in etymology and in signi-
fication to the Latin Imperator. Thus was inaugurated the dual system of
government which lasted down to the year 1868, — the llilcado supreme
in name, but powerless and dwelling in a gilded captivity at the old
capital Kyoto ; the Shogun with his great feudatories, his armed re-
tainers, and his M-ell-fiUed exchequer, ruling the whole empire fi-om
his new capital in Eastern Japan, — first Kamakura, then Yedo. Dming
the latter period of the nominal supremacy of the Minamoto family of
Shoguns, the real jiower was in the hands of their chief retainers, the
Outline of Japanese Hidory. 59
Hojo family, — tlie political arrangement thus becoming n triple one.
The rule of the Hojo was rendered memorable by the repulse of the
Mongol fleet sent by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan, since which time
Japan has never been invaded by any foreign foe. The Ashikaga
line of Shoguns grasped the power which had fallen from the Hdjo's
hands, and distinguished themselves by their patronage of the arts.
The second half of the 16th century was a period of anarchy, during
which two great soldiers of fortune who were not Shoguns — Nobunaga
and Hideyoshi — successively rose to supreme i)ower. Hideyoshi even
went so far as to conquer Korea and to meditate the conquest of China,
an enterprise which was, however, interrupted by his death in A. D. 1598.
Tokugawa leyasu, Hideyoshi's greatest general, then succeeded in making
Japan his own, and founded a dynasty of Shoguns who ruled the land in
profound peace from 1603 to 1888. Among the means resorted to for
securing this end, were the ejection of the Catholic missionaries and the
closing of the country to foreign trade. Nagasaki was the only place in
the empire at which any commiTnication with the outer world was per-
mitted, no Eu.ropean nation but the Dutch was allowed to trade there,
and even Dutch commerce was restricted within narrow limits. At last,
in 1853, the government of the United States sent a fleet under the com-
mand of Commodore Perry to insist on the abandonment of the Jax^anese
policy of isolation. This act of interference from the outside gave the
coup de grace to the Shogunate, which had previously been weakened by
internal discontent. It fell, and in its fall dragged down the Avhole fabric
of medi;eval Japanese civilisation. On the one hand, the filikado was
restored to the absolute power which had belonged to his ancestors cen-
turies before. On the other, Europeanism (if one may so jjhrase it)
became supreme in every branch of thought and activity. The natural
outcome of this has been the Europeanisation of the monarchy itself.
Not only has the Court adoj)ted foreign manners and etiquette, — it has
granted a Constitution modelled on that of Prussia ; and the Diet, as it is
termed, meets yearly. The tendency of this bodj^ has always been
towards radicalism.
The following are the chief dates of Japanese history :—
B.C.
^ / Accession of the first Mikado, Jimmu Tenno 660
ot: A.D.
2 •§ J Prince Yamato-take conquers S.W. and E. Jaj^au . . 97-113
i^'f2 I Conquest of Korea by the Empress Jingo 200
'^ ( First Chinese books brought to Japan 285
Buddhism introduced from Korea . 552
Shotoku Taishi patronises Buddhism . . . . 593-621
Grovernment remodelled on Chinese bureaucratic plan . . . . 600-800
Chinese calendar introduced . . . . 602
Fujiwara family predominant .. 670-1050
The Court resides at ISfara . . . . • - 70^-784:
First extant Japanese book published (A'oy/'fci) .. 712
Printing introduced . . . . . . . . 770
Kyoto made the capital 791
Invention of the Hiragana syllabary . . . . 809
Struggle between the houses of Taira and Minauiotu . . . . 1156-1185
Yoritomo establishes the Shogunate at Kamakura .. .. 1192
H6j5 family predominant 1205-1333
Eepulse of the Mongols 1274-1281
60 Introduction : — Outline of Japanese History.
Two rival lines of ilikados, the Northern and Sonthern Courts 1332-1392
Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns 1338-1565
The Portuguese discover japan . . 1542
St. Francis Xavier anives in Japan . . . . . . 1549
First persecution of the Christians . 1 587
Yedo founded by leyasu 1590
Hideyoshi invades Korea 1592-1598
Battle of SeM-ga-hara . . 1600
Tokngawa dynasty of Shoguns 1603-1868
Japan closed and Christianity prohibited 1624
The Dutch relegated to Deshima . . 1639
Kaenipfer visits Japan . . . . . 1690-92
Last eruption of Fuji • • 1708
Arrival of Commodore Perry 1853
Fii-st treaty signed with the United States ■ • 1854
(rreat earthquake at Yedo 1855
First treaties with European PoM^ers 1857-59
Yokohama opened 1858
First Japanese embassy sent abroad i860
Bombardment of Shi monoseki .. 1864
The Shogunate aboUshed and the Mikado restored . . . . 1868
Civil war between ImperifiJists and partisans of the Shogun . . 1868-69
The Mikado removes to Yedo (Tokyo) . . 1869
Abohtion of feudal system .. .. 1871
T5ky6-Yokohama railway opened . . . . . . • • • • . . 1872
Adoption of Gregorian calendar 1873
Expedition to Formosa . . . . 1874
Wearing of swords interdicted 1876
Satsuma rebeUion . . . .......... 1877
New Codes published 1880-98
Constitution promulgated 1889
First Diet met 1890
War with China .. .. .... 1894-5
Formosa added to the empire 1895
(lold standard iidopted . . . . . . 1897
New treaties come into operation, whereby all foreigners are
brought under Japanese law . . . . 1899
25. Jap.\nese Chronologic.ax T.4.bles.
The following tables, adiipted by permission from a little work
compiled many years ago by Sir Ernest Satow for private circulation,
will facilitate reference to Japanese historical dates,
Table I. gives the Japanese Nengo or " year-names,"* arranged
alphabetically, with the equivalent of each according to the Christian
calendar, the first number being the year in which the " year-name "
commenced, the second that in which it ended. Some few may appear
to be repetitions of each other, for instance, Ei-rek'i and Yo-ryaku, both
representing the period 1160-1. The reason of this is that the Chinese
characters ^flf , with which this " year-name " is written, admit of being
* See " Things Japanese," article Time.
Chronological Tables.
61
read in two ways, much as, among om-selves, some persons pronounce
the word "lieutenant" lyootenant, oihemlef tenant. The remaining tables
are self-explanatory, giving as they do, in alphabetical order, the names
of the Mikados, Shoguns, and Regents, with the dates of their reigns.
Note only that the alternative name of each Shogun is that conferred on
Mm posthumously. For instance, the ruler known to history as leyasu,
was, so to say, canonised under the title of Toshogu.
TABLE I.
The Japanese " Year-names."
An-ei
^77C
1772
1781
Bun-kwa
ICit
1804
Ch5-kwan
WK
1163
1818
1165
An-gen
^7C
1175
Bun-kyu
■xx
1861
1864
Cho-kyu
^X
1040
1044
1177
An-sei
^^
1854
1860
Bun-5
-xm.
1260
Cho-reki
^m
1037
1261
1040
An-tei
^M.
1227
Bun-reki
■^m
1234
1235
Cho-roku
M^
1457
1460
1229
An-wa
^m
908
970
Bim-roku
%m
1592
1596
Ch6-sh5
^#c
1132
1135
Bum-mei
iscm
1469
BTin-sei
rSCi^
1818
Cho-toku
^m
995
1487
1830
999
Bum-po
ISC^
1317
Bun-sho
^lE
1466
1467
Cho-wa
fifn
1012
1017
1319
Bun-an
■X'k
1444
1449
Buu-wa
^in
1352
1356
Dai-do
i^m
806
810
Bun-chu
%<^
1372
1375'
Cho-gen
Stc
1028
Dai-ei
^7TC
1521
1037
1528
Bun-ei
%7%
1264
1275
Cho-ho
^^
999
1004
Dai-ho
■hm.
701
704
Bun-ji
%^^
1185
1190
Cho-ji
s?^
1104
Dai-ji
:kf^
1126
1106
1131
Bun-ki
^m.
1501
Ch5-ko
^?
1487
1489
Dai-kwa
Afh
645
1504
650
62
Introduction :■ — Chronoloqical Tablea.
Ei-clio
7%&
1096
Em-po
MS
1673
Gen-ko
7C3i.
1331
1097
1681
1334
Ei-en
Ei-ho
987
En-cho
mMi
923
Gen-kyu
TtX
1204 j
1206 1
1
980
1081
931
En-gen
myt
1336
Gen-nin
TCt
1224 1
^^ . 1084
1340
1225 i
Ei-ji
7Tcr^
1141
En-gi
mm
901
Gen-6
Ttm.
1319
1142
923
1321 i
1
Ei-kyo
7lc#
1429
1441
En-kei
mm
1308
Gen-roku
Ttm
1688 !
1311
1704 !
Ei-kyu
fk^
1113
En-kyo
mm
1744
jGen-ryaku
1
Ttm
1184 ;
1185
1118
1748
Ei-kwan
7lcM
983
En-kyu
mx
1069
1
1 Gen-toku
Ttm
1329
985
1074
1331
Ei-man
i5tK
1165
En-o
mm
1239
Gen-wa
i
Tcin
1615
1166
1240
1624
Ei-nin
^^^ 1 1299
En-iyaku
mm
782
Haku-cM
&m
050
806
655
Ei-reki
7l<.M
1160
1161
En-toku
mm
1489
i Haku-bd
em
673
149'-i
686
Ei-roku
^^
1558
Gem-bun
TfX
1736
i Hei-ji
^?^
1150
1570
1741
1160
Ei-sho
7Tt7?i
1045
1053
Gen-chu
1
TC'f'
1384
Ho-an
m^
1120
1393
1124
Ei-sh5
7l<.jF.
1504
Gen-ei
7C7l^
1118
: Ho-ei
K/Tc
1704 1
1621
1120
1711 !
Ei-so
n^^
989
990
Gen-ji
TCf^
1864
1
' H6-en
^m
1135
1865
1141
Ei-toku
n<.Wi
1381
\ Gen-kei
I
TCg
877
iSrTC
1156
1159
1384
885
"Ei-vra
fkm
i 1375
Gen-ki
7C^
1570
Ho-ji
K?^
1247
1379
1573
1249
Em-bun
^■x
1356
Gen-ko
7C?
1321
i Ho-ki
R»
770
1361
1324
781
Chronological Tables.
63
H6-reki
Ho-tokii
Ji-an
'^^S
Jingo-
Keiiin
Jin-ki
Ji-reld
Ji-sli6
Jo-ei
Jo-cen
Jo-owan
Jo-ji
Jo-kyo
Jo-t)
Jo-wa
Ju-ei
Ka-ei
Ka-gen
mm
1751
1761
1449
1452
1021
1U24
767
Ka-ho
770
1*1
'^^W-
M.fk
L7C
M.ilt
724:
729
1065
106y
1177
1181
1232
1233
976
978
859
877
1362
1368
1684
1688
Mn
?rH
^Tlt
^7C
1222
1224
1345
1350
1182
1185
1848
1854
1303
1306
Ka-j6
Ka-kei
Ka-kitsu
Ka-o
Ka-reki
Ka-roku
^m
mm
1094
1096
848
851
1387
1389
1441
1444
Ken-ei
Em
1206
1207
Ken-gen
ITC
1302
13U3
Ken-ji
1169
1171
1326
1329
B^
Ka-sli6
Ka-sli6
MW^
MW^
Ka-tei
Kei-an
Kei-clio
Kei-5
Kei-tm
Kem-mu
Kem-po
Ken-cbo
^m
m^
m
1225
1227
S48
851
1106
1108
1235
1238
1648
1652
1596
1615
1865
1868
704
708
1334
1338
1213
I2iy
1249
1256
Ken-kyu
1275
1278
1190
1199
Ken-nin
itn
1201
1204
Ken-
ryaku
1211
"12I3"
Ken-toku
1370
1372
K6-an
5L^
1278
1288
K6-an
1361
1362
Ko-cho
^J
1261
1264
Ko-ei
SxK
1342
1345
Ko-gen
ETC
1256
1257
K6-hei
Ko-ho
K6-ji
Ko-ji
K6-koku
1^
^pK:
mfi
5ifl
1058
1065
964
968
1142
1144
1555
1558
1340
1346
64
In trod u cf io n : — Chronological Tables.
Ko-kwa
U>it
1844 1
Kwan-ko
War
1004
1
Mei-reki
mm
1655
1848 1
^^ 1012
1658
Ko-nin
^i=.
810
Kwan^Tiin
-K^
1017 1
Mei-toku
mm
1390
1394
8-24
1021
Ko-o
mm.
1389
K-wan-o
WB.
1350 1
1352 ■
Mei-wa
mm
1764
1390
1772
Ko-reki
^m
1379
Kwan-sei
-K^
1789
Nim-pei
n^
1151
1381
1801 1
1154
K6-Tokia
?Ǥ
1528
Kwan-sho
KiE
1460
Nin-an
t^^
1166
1532
1466
1169
Ko-slio
KiE
1455
Kwan-
%^.
1044
Nin-ji
t^m
1240
1243
1457 toku
1046
K6-toku
?^.
1452
Kwan-wa
m?fl
085
987 1
1
Nin-ju
«
851
854
1455
Ko-wa
m^
1099
Kyo-ho
?»
1716
Nin-wa
tim
885
1104
1736
889
Ko-wa
alia
1381
Kyo-toku
$^
1452
O-an
m^
1368
1375
1384
1455
Kwan-
bun
^5:
1661
Kyo-wa
^«
1801
O-cho
m^
1311
1673
1804
1312
Kwam-pei
%^
889
Kytt-iin
^^
1145
1151
O-ei
0-ho
m.fk
1394
898
1428
Kwam-po
m^
1741
Kyu-ju
1154
m^
1161
1744
y ^
1156
1163
Kwan-ei
%77t
1624
Man-en
ts-zt: I860
^^ 1861
0-nin
Hit:
1467
1644
1469
Kwan-en
rm
1748
Man-ji
■m^
1658
0-tokn
mM
1084
1751
1661
1087
Kwan-gen
"Kit
1243
Man-ju
nm
1024
O-wa
MM
961
1247
1028
964
Kwan-ji
-Km
1087
Mei-ji
mm
1868
Rei-ld
mm
715
1U94
717
Kwan-ki
nm
1229
Mei-o
mm
1492
EeM-nin
\mfz
1238
1232
1501
1239
Ghrovological 7'ables.
65
Keld-o
mm
1338
Sho-6
JEM
1288
1293
Tem-p6
^^
1830
1342
1844
Sai-k5
mm
854
Sho-o
7^B
1652
Tem-piikii
^ii
1233
857
1655
1234
Shi-toku
mm
1384
1387
Slio-reki
JEM
990
Tem-pyo
^^
729
995
749
Sho-an
^^
1171
1175
Slio-reki
T^m
1077
Ten-an ^^
857
1081
859
Slio-an
iE^
1299
Sho-tai
i.^
898
i
Ten-cho ^-g;
824
1302
904
834
Sho-olio
JE^
1428
Slio-toku
7^m
1097
Ten-ei
^n<.
1110
1113
1429
1099
SliS-cliu
lE^
1324
Slio-toku
IS
1711
Ten- en
j<m
973
1326
1716
976
Sho-gen
jEtc
1259
12B0
Sh<j-wa
;^?n
834
848
Ten-gen
^7C
978
983
Sho-gen
Tf^Tt
1207
1211
Sho-wa
■^m
1312
1317
Ten-ji
^m
1124
1126
Sho-hei
7^^
931
938
Sliu-cho
XjCi^
686
Ten-ju
^&
1375
701
1381
Slio-liei
iE^
1346
Sliu-jakii
*^
672
Ten-ki
^m
1053
1058
1370
672
Sho-ho
■m^
1074
Tai-ji
M^
1126
Ten-nin
^t
1108
1077
1131
1110
Slio-bo
Sho-ji
iE^^
1644
1648
1199
Tem-bnn
^■^
1532
1555
Ten-o
^m
781
78:S
Temmei
^m
1781
Ten-roku
^m
970
1201
1789
973
Sho-ka
im
1257
Tempei-
Hoji
757
765
Ten-ryaku
'^m
947
957
1259
Sho-kei
.-Eg
1332
Tempei-
Jingo
MM
765
767
Ten-slio
XtI^
1131
1333
113:^
Sho-kyu
Tf^X
1219
1222
Tempei-
Shobo
mm
749
Ten-sh5
^JE
1573
1592
757
66
Inlroduction : — Chronological Tables.
Ten-toku
^^
957
961
^m
1681
1684
Ten-yo
^m
1144
1145
Toku-ji
Wa-d5
Yo-ro
^m
1306
1308
708
715
717
724
Yo-iyaku
Y6-SO
Y'^o-wa
fkM
W^
m
TABLE n.
List of ^Mikados. t
Ankan
534
Gensho
715
Go-Komatsu *
1383
1392
535
723
Anko
454
Go-Daigo
1319
Go-Komatsii
1392
456
1339
1412
.Vnnei
548B.C.
Go-Enyu *
1372
Go-K6my6
1644
511B.C.
1382
1654
Antokii
1181
Go-Fiikakusa
1247
Go-jMiziino-o
1612
1185
1259
1629
Bidatsii
572
Go-Fushimi
1299
Go-Momozono
1771
585
1301
1779
Chuai
192
Go-Hanazono
1429
Go-Murakami
1319
2U0
1464
1368
Chukyo
1222
Go-Hoiikawa
1222
Go-Nara
1527
1222
1232
1557
Daigo
898
930
Go-Icliij6
1017
Go-Nij6
1302
1036
1308
Enyii
970
Go-Kameyama
1368
1392
Go-Reizei
1046
984
1068
Fushimi
1288
Go-Kasliiwa-
bara
1501
Go-Saga
1243
1298
1562
1246
Gemmyo
708
Go-K6gon *
1352
Go-Saiin
1655
715
1371
1663
t All those not marked B. C. are subsequent to the Christian era. Female
:Uikados are printed in italics. The sovereigns whose names are marked with an as-
terisk belonged to the Northern Court (see p. 72), and are excluded by modern
historians from the legitimate line of succession.
Chronological Tables.
fi7
Go-Sakura-
machi
1763
Jingo Kogo
201
Kokaku
1780
1817
1770
269
Go-San jo
1069
690
Koken
749
1073
696
758
Go-SMrakawa
1156
Jomei
629
Koko
885
887
1158
641
Go-Shujaku
1037
Junna
824
Komei
1847
1045
833
1866
Go-Toba
1186
Junnin
758
K6my5 *
1336
1198
764
1348
Go-Tsuchi-
mikado
1465
Juntokti
1211
Konin
770
1500
1221
781
Go-Uda
1275
Kaikwa
157B.C.
Kon-e
1142
1287
98B.C.
1155
Go-Y6zei
1587
Kameyama
1260
Korei
290BC.
1611
1274
215B.C.
Hanazono
1308
Keiko
71
Kosbo
475B.C.
1318
130
393B.C.
Hansei
406
Kenso
485
Kotoku
645
411
487
654
Heizei
806
Keitai
507
Kwammu
782
809
531
806
Higashiyama
1687
Kimmei
540
Kwazan
985
1709
571
986
Horikawa
1087
Koan
392B.C.
291B.C.
1630
1107
1643
Ichijo
987
Kobun
672
Mommu
697
1011
672
707
Ingyo
412
Kogen
214B.O
Momozono
1747
453
158B.C.
1762
Itokii
510B.C.
477B.C
Kdgyoku
642
Montoku
851
645
858
Jimmu
660B.C
Kogon *
1332
Murakami
947
585B.C.
1335
967
08
Introduction : — Chronological Tabhs.
Muretsu
49!)
Sakuramachi
1736
Suiko
593
628
nu5
1747
Nakanomikado
1710
Sanj5
1012
Svunin
2IBC.
17,J5
1U15
7( AD
Nijo
1159
Seimu
131
Suisei
581 B.C.
116o
19U
04'.)B.C.
Nimmyo
834
Seinei
480
Siijiin
588
850
484
592
Ninken
488
498
Seiwa
8=i9
Takaktira
1169
876
1180
Ninko
1817
Senkwa
530
Temmn
673
68J
lb4J
5JJ
Mntoku
313
Sbija
1233
Tenchi
668
399
1242
(.71
OgimacH
15.^8
Shirakawa
107:5
Toba
1108
1123
15813
1U81J
Ojin
270
Shoko
1411
Tsuchimikado
1199
31U
1428
1^10
Eeigen
1003
Slidrnu
724
Tsunuzashi
484
484
168(j
74»
Eeizei
968
SJwtolcu
765
Uda
8=^8
959
770
8J7
Kichu
400
405
Shukd *
1319
Yomei
586
1352
587
Kokujo
1106
Shnjalni
931
946
Yozei
877
884
1108
Saga
Rin
Shujin
97B.O.
Yuryaku
457
»23
3UBC.
■159
Saimei
655
Shiitoku
11>4
061
1141
1
Chronological Tables.
69
TABLE m.
List op Shoguns.
Hidetadxi (Taitoku-In)
IfiO.s
Morikuni
1308
i.i>-A.i
1333
n isaaHra
1-28!)
Moriyoshi
1333
13U8
1334
leharu (Sbimmei-In)
17fin
Miinetaka
r>b'2
mm
126 J
lemitsu { Taiyu-In)
lfi'23
Nariyoshi
1334
lOSU
13J8
lemochi (Shotoku-In)
1858
Sanetomo
1203
1806
I2ly
lenari {Bunkyo-In)
1787
Takaiiji (Toji-In)
1338
18o8
1356
lenobu (DimsliS-In)
1700
Tsimayoslii (J6ken-In)
1680
17 IJ
iviy
lesada (Onkyo-Li)
1853
Yoriie
1902
1858
12U3
lesMge (Junshin-In)
1745
Yoritomo
1192
17UU
iiwy
letsugu (Yusho-In)
1713
Y'^oritsugu
1244
1716
1250
letsuna (Gen-yu-In)
IfiSl
Yoritsune
122G
1680
1243
leyasu (T6sh5-gu)
inrs
YoshiaH (Eeiyo-In)
1568
liJW5
lO'J?
leyoshi (Shintoku-In)
1838
Yoshiharu (Mansho-In)
J 521
1853
1546
KeiM
I8n7
Yoshihide (Daiclii-In)
1568
1868
.1568
Koreyasu
1266
Yoshihisa (J6toku-In)
1472
128'J
1489
70
Introduclion : — Gdebrated Pfn^onages.
Yoshikatsu (Keiun-In)
14n
1443
Y'^oshimxine (Yutokii-In)
17 IB
1745
Yoshikazu (Chotokti-In)
1423
Yosbinoii (Fuko-In)
1429
1425
1441
YoshiM
1490
Y'oshinori (Hokyo-Itt)
1358
14ii4
1367
Y'^oshimasu (Jislio-In)
1449
Yoshitane (Keirin-In)
1508
1472
1521
Yosliimitsu (Koknon-In)
1368
Yoshiteru (Kogen-In)
1548
1394
1565
Y'oshimochi (Shotei-In)
1394
Y'oshizumi (Hoju-In)
1494
1423
1508
TABLE IV.
List of the Regents {Shikken) of the Hojo Family.
ToMmasa
Born.
1136
Died.
1216
Tokimune
Apptd.
1261
Died.
1284
YoshitoM
Apptd.
1205
1227
Sadatoki
1284
1311
Y'^asutoki
1225
1242
MorotoM
1301
1311
Teunetoki
1243
1263
Takatoki
1312
1333
Tokiyori
1246
1263
26. — List of Celkbrated Personages.
The following list of celebrated personages referred to in this book,
and Kkely to be mentioned by guides when explaining objects of historical
or artistic interest, may be found useful.
Akahito (flourished circa A.D. 700), one of the earliest great poets of
Japan. His full name was Yamabe-no-Akahito.
Antoku Tenno, an ill-fated infant Mikado, who perished at sea in
A.D. 1185, during the ciYil war waged between the great families of
Taira and llinamoto. (See also end of Boute 43).
AsAiNA Sabtjko (end of 12th century), one of Yoritomo's doughtiest
retainers, was distinguished by almost incredible physical strength. He!
Geleh'aled Personage^. 71
is represented in art as liurling gi'eat rocks with the same ease that he
flings stalwart rivals, and as swimming with a live shark under each arm.
Bakin (17G7-1848), the greatest novelist of modern Japan. His most
famous production is the " JIakkenden," or " Story of Eight Dogs." This
amazingly voluminous work (it fiUs no less than one hundred and six
volumes ! ) sets forth the adventures of eight heroes of semi-canine
parentage, who represent the eight cardinal virtues.
Benkei, or Musashi-b5 Benkf.i (12th century), was Yoshitaune's
famous henchman. How many of Benkei's achievements are historical, it
would be hard to say. According to the current version, he was eight feet
in height, strong as a hundred men, and had even in early years performed
so many deeds of violence as to have been nicknamed Oni-waka, " the Devil
Youth." Having attempted to cut down Y'^oshitsune, then a mere stripling,
on the Gojo Bridge in Kyoto, he found in him his master in the art of fen-
cing, and was made to sue for quarter. So great was the veneration thus
inspired in his breast that he thenceforth attached himself to Y'^oshitsune's
fortunes and died battling in his cause. The fight between Y'oshitsune
and Benkei is a favourite subject with the artists of Japan. Another is
the subterfuge by which Benkei made way for his master and then* little
band through one of the barriers where, at that time, all travellers were
liable to be stopped. He pretended that he was a priest sent to collect
subscriptions for the building of a new temple, and therefore privileged to
travel free. The pictui'es represent him reading out his supposed
ecclesiastical commission from a scroll to the barrier-keepers, who were
too ignorant of letters to chscover the feint. This story is the subject of
a popular drama called Kanjin-cho.
Boson (1716-1783), a highly original and vigorous artist of the
Chinese school.
Chikamatsu Monzaemon (1653-1724) was Japan's foremost play-
wright. His dramas are still immensely popular.
Cho Densu (second half of 14th century), the greatest and most
original painter of the Buddhist school, is termed by Anderson the Fra
Angehco of Japan.
Date Masamune (1567-1G3G), Daimyo of Sendai, is chiefly remem-
bered for the embassy which he despatched to the Pope and to the King
of Spain in 1614 (Conf. Eoute 4, Section 6). Date was eminent as a
warrior, a diplomatist, and a patron of learning and art.
Dengyo Daishi (flourished about A.D. 800) was the first Buddhist
abbot of Hiei-zan, near Kyoto. He made a long sojourn in China for the
purpose of esoteric study, and brought back with him the doctrines of the
Tendai sect.
En no Shokaku was a famous Buddhist saint and miracle-worker of
the 7th century, and the first human being to ascend Haku-san, Daisen,
Tateyama, and others of Japan's highest mountains, it being part of his
mission to bring all such remote and inaccessible jjlaces xmder the sway
of Buddha. Having been slandered as a magician and condemned to
death, he so fortified himself by the use of mystic signs and formula that
the swords of the executioners sent to behead him snajjped in pieces ; but
afterwards he flew away through the air, and was never again seen by
mortal eyes.
Enko Daishi (1133-1212) was bora of respectable parents in the
province of Mimasalca. At the age of nine he was entered as a pupil at a
seminary in his native province ; but his teacher, recognising his excep-
tional powers, sent him up to the great monastery on Hiei-zan in 1147,
'with a letter containing only these words : " I send you an image of the
72 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.
great sage Monju." On the letter being presented, the priest to whom it was
addressed asketl where the image was, and was mnch astonished when the
child alone appeared before him. But the young novice soon justified the
implied estimate of his gTeat intellecttial powers, and made such rapid
progress in his studies that at the end of the same year he was judged fit
to be admitted to the priesthood. The prospect was held out to him of
ultimately obtaining the headship of the Tendai sect ; but he preferred to
devote himself to the study of theology, and finallj'^ developed a special
doctrine of salvation, or the road to the " Pure Land," from which the
new sect was named Jodo, this word having the same meaning as the
Sanslait !^i(kh<tvali or "Pure Land," the heaven of Amida. In 1'207 he
settled at Kyoto near the site of the present monastery of Chion-in, and
there breathed his last at the age of seventy-nine.
EsHiN (912-1017), a Buddhist abbot who is famous as a sculptor.
Fokty-Sevkn Eonins. 'Iheir story, too long to be told here, will be
found in Thhujn Jupancse.
Go-Daigo Tknno (reigned 1319-133!)) was a Mikado celebrated for his
misfortunes. At the beginning of his reign, the throne and the nation
were alilvc trampled under foot by the H6j6 "Regents " at Kamaknra, and
his endeavour to shake off tlieir domination only resulted, after much
shedding of blood, in his being taken prisoner and banished to the Old
Islands. When the lEjo fell in ISA'S under the sword of the loyalist warrior
Nitta Yoshisada, the Emperor Go-Daigo was recalled from exile. But the
times were not ripe for the abohtion of military rule, nor was Go-Daigo
wise in his choice of counsellors after his restoration. Ashikaga Takauji,
who had posed as the champion of Imperial rights, desired nothing so
much as to become Shogun himself, and bribed the Mik ido's concubine
Kado-ko to poison her lord's mind against those who had served him
most faithfully, and even against his own son, Piince Moriyoshi, who was
declared a rebel, cast into a dungeon at Kamakura, and there murdered.
Go-Daigo repented of his folly and weakness when it was too late.
Takauji left Kyoto, a.nd the army sent to smite him received such a
crushing defeat that Go-Daigo was forced to seek safety in flight, 'there-
upon Takauji set another Mikado on the throne. But as Go-Daigo con-
tinued to be recognised by many as the rightful sovereign, the Mikadoate
was f-pht into two rival branches, called the Southern (legitimate) and the
Northern (usurping) Courts. After sixty years of strife and misery, the
Northern Court triumphed in 13)2, the -representative of the Southern
dynasty handing over to it the Imperial regalia. Go-Daigo perished at an
early period of the struggle. His Court— if we may so call the mountain
fastness where he mostly encamped — was at Yoshino, whose position to
the south of Kyoto was the origin of the epithet " Southern " applied to
it by native historians.
Gyugi Bosatstj (G70-749), a Korean by birth, and a Euddliist abbot
and saint, is the subject of many artistic fictions. He is credited not only
with the invention of the potter's wheel, which was certainly used in
Japan before his time, but with a number of important wood-carvings and
other Vv'ovks of art. 'J he ware called after him, (Ti,dij)-y'<Jci, is earthen-
ware, — dark, glossy, very solid, having wave-lines in the interior, and on
the oiitnide a pattern resenibling the impression of matting.
Hachiman Taiio, lit. the First-Born of the God of War, was a famous
general of the end of the 1 1th century, whose real name was idnamoto-no-
Y^oshiie, and whose vigorous personality created the pre-eminence of the
Minamoto family. He it v/as who conquered Northern Japan (the part
beyond Sendai), and brought those hitherto barbarous provinces into
Cr.U'brdled Personages. 73
permanent subjection to tlie Imperial sway. Artists often depict an
episode in bis career wbicii showed his skill as a strategist, namely, his
discovery of an aujbush among the rushes which he infen-ed from the
disturbed flight of the wild-geese overhead. Like many oilier turbulent
spirits of that time, he forsook the world and became a Buddhist monk
at the approach of old age.
HiDAiJi JiNGOEo (151)1-1631), Japan's greatest carver m wood, was a
simple carpenter whose nickname of Ilklari arose fTom his being left-
handed. Among the best-known of his works are the carved gateway of
the Nishi Hongwanji temple in Kyoto, the vnnnia, or ventilating panels,
of the principal apartments in the same temple, and three carvings -two
of elephants after designs by Kano Tan-yu, and one of a sleeping cat— in
the mortuary shrine of leyasu at Nikko. 'Ihe notice attracted by his
labours was so gTeat that the architectural wood-carvers, whose artistic
efforts had previously been limited to the execution of geometrical designs
and conventional flowers, now came to be regarded as a body distinct
from the carpenters to whom they had hitherto been affiliated.
HiDEvosHi {15oG-15')8), commonly known as the TailvO Hideyoshi—
the word Tatko being a title indicative of exalted rank— has sometimes
been called the Napoleon of Japan. Of low birth and so ugly as to earn the
nickname of " Monkey Face," Hideyoshi worked his way up by sheer will,
hard fighting, and far-sighted ability, to the position of Nobunaga's most
trusty lieutenant ; and when that rider died in 15S2, Hideyoshi, having
slain his chief enemies and captured Kyoto, became practically monarch
of Japan with the title of Segent [Kwampaka], which till then had never
been accorded to any but the highest nobility. Hideyoshi earned out
many wise measures of internal policy, suchjis financial reform, the
improvement of the great cities of KyOto and Osaka, and the encourage-
ment of maritime trade. He was also more merciful to his foes and rivals
than his predecessor Nobunaga had been. His greatest failing was the
vidgar ambition of the purvtim. His dream was to conquer China and
become Emperor of the whole East. As a first step towards this, he sent
iin army across the straits to Korea under command of the celebrated
generals Kato Kiyomasa and Konishi Yukinaga- the latter a Christian,
as were many of the soldiers of the expedition. Korea was ruined, and
Japan nowise benefited. Hideyoshi's death resulted in the withdrawiil of
the Japanese troops from the peninsula, and in the speedy overthrow of
his own family power which he had hoped to render hereditary.
HisuiGAWA MoKONOBU (flourished 1G8U-17U1) was the father of
artistic xylogTaj)hy.
HiTwMAKo (flourished circa A. D. 7C()) was one of Japan s earliest
great poets, and the rival of Aliidiito. His full name was Kjddnomoto-no-
Hitomaro.
HoKtisAi (17C)0-181!)) was the great leader of the popular or artisan
school of illustration.
Ikmiisu (IGri-KJol), the third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, in-
herited the adiuinistrative ability of his grandfather leyasu, and devoted
his peaceful reign to perfecting the system of government established by
that prince, including the elaborate system of espionage touching which
early European v.'iiters on Japan haxveso much to say. To him is due the
rule accorcdng to which all the Daimyos were obliged to reside during half
the year in Yedo, and to leave their families there as hostages during the
other half. It was also lemitsu who suppressed Christianity as dangerous
to the state, and closed up the country ugainst all foreigners except the
Dutch and Chinese, who were permitted to trade at Nagasaki under
74 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.
liiimiliating conditions. In fact, it was lemitsu who consolidated wnat we
call '■ Old Japan." His tomb is at Nikko near that of leyasu.
lEYAsrr (154:'2-lfiI6), one of the greatest generals and altogether the
greatest riiler that Japan has ever produced, was a samurai of the pro-
vince of Slikawa, and a scion of the noble family of IVIinamoto. His own
surname was Tokugawa. Having served under both Nobunaga and the
Taiko Hideyoshi, he profited by the latter's death in 15Jt8 to make war
on his infant son Hideyori, seized the great castle of Osaka, burnt the
Taiko's celebrated palace of Momoyama at Fushimi, and finally, in the
year 161)0, defeated all his enemies at the battle of Seki-ga-hara, a small
village in the province of Omi, now a station on the Tokaido Railway.
Meanwhile he had, in 1590, moved his own head-quarters fi'om Shizuoka,
where they had been for many years, to Yedo, then an unimportant fish-
ing-village, which he chose on account of the strategic advantages of its
position. In 1603 he obtained from the faineant Court of Kyoto the title
of Shogun, which was borne b}^ his descendants during two and a half cen-
turies of unbroken peace, till Commodore Pen-y's arrival in 1853 led to the
revolution of 1868, and to the break-uj) of Japanese feudalism and duahsm.
The statecraft which caused so long a reign of peace under one dynasty to
take the place of the secular struggles between petty warring chieftains,
consisted jmncipally in maintaining a balance of power whereby the rival-
ries of the gi'eater Daimyos M-ere played off against each other, and in the
annexation to the Shogun's own domain, or to those of his nearest relatives,
of large strips of territory in all portions of the Empire. These served as
coigns of vantage, whence, in those days of difliciilt communication, the
actions of each Daimyo could more easily be controlled. leyasu held in
his own gi-asp aU the military resources of the country, and forced aU the
Daimyos to regard themselves as his feudatories. He Likewise had the
Court of Kyoto strictly guarded, — nominally as a protection for the sacred
JVIikado against rebel foes, but in reality to prevent His Majesty, who
still retained the semblance of Imperial power, fi'om endeavouring to
shake ofl: the fetters which made him a passive instrument in the Shogun's
hands. leyasu fvirthermore built powerful strongholds, made new high-
ways, established a system of posts, and promulgated laws, which — if we
accept the theory of paternal government alike in politics and in the
family — were very wise, and which were in any case far in advance of
anything that Japan had previously known. When the government had
been established on a firm footing in 1605, leyasu followed the usual
Japanese custom of abdicating in favour of his son. He retired to Shizuokxi,
and spent the evening of his life in encouraging the renaissance of Japa-
nese literature which had just begun. To his munificence is o-wdng the
editio princeps of many an important work. His jiolitical testament,
known as the " Legacy of leyasu," embodied the rules of paternal govern-
ment by which his successors were ever to be guided ; but (owing perhaps
to the circumstance of its having long been kept from pubUc knowledge)
its authenticity has been doubted. leyasu was first buried at Kuno-zan,
not far from Shizuoka, in a beautiful shrine on a castle-Like eminence
overlooking the sea. In the year 1617, his remains were removed to their
present still grander resting-place at Nikkd. The dynasty of Shoguns
founded by leyasu is called the Tokugawa dynasty, from the surname of
the family.
IsHiKAWA (lOEsioN (cud of 16th ccntury), the most notorious of
Japanese robbers, is credited with having possessed the physical strength
of thirty ordinary men. Being at last captured at the age of thirty-seven,
he and his young son Ichird were condemned to be boiled to death in a
Celebrated Fersonages. 75
tiauldron of oil, which sentence was carried out in the dry bed of the
Eamogawa at Kyoto. In accordance with custom, the criminal composed
a death-song, which ran as follows :
Ishikawa ya
Hama no ma sago ica
Tsukuru to mo,
Yo ni nusuhito no
Tane loa tsukimaji
which may be rendered thus, " Though the stony-bedded rivers {ishi-kawa,
a pun on his own name) and the sand on the sea-shore come to an end,
the line of thieves shall never come to an end."
IwASA Matahei (16th century) was the originator of the Ukiyo-e
Ryu, or "popular school" of Japanese art, which, abandoning the pre-
scribed subjects and conventional routine of the classical schools, under-
took to paint life as it is.
JiKAKTj Daishi (A.D. 794-864), a celebrated Buddhist abbot. Like
many others of his time and profession, he visited China in search of
rehgious and magical lore.
JiMMU Tenno, that is, the Emperor Jimmu, is accounted by the
Jax^anese annalists the first human sovereign of their country, which had
till then been ruled over by the Shinto gods. Jimmu Tenno was himseK
descended from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, and consequently semi-
divine. The orthodox account of his career is that, starting from Kyushu
in the extreme west of Japan, he rowed iip the Inland Sea witli a band
of devoted waiTiors, subduing the aborigines as he went along, in virtue
of the commission which he had received from Heaven. After much
fighting in vi'hat are now the provinces of Bizen and Yamato, and many
miraculous occurrences, he died at the age of one hundred and thirty-
seven, and was buried at Kashiwabara in Yamato, where his capital had
been established after the conquest. The date assigned for his accession
is the 11th February, 660 B.C., the anniversary of which day has been
made a pubhc holidaj-^ during the present reign, and ^w^.s chosen for the
promulgation of the new Constitution in 1889, evidently Math the desire to
strengthen the popular belief in the authenticity and continuity of Japa-
nese history. Jimmu Tenno and his successors during many centuries
have, however, been condemned as mj'ths by competent European in-
vestigators, though it is allowed that the Jimmu legend may possibly be
an echo of some actual invasion of Central Japan by western tribes of
adventurers in very early days.
Jingo K6g5, that is, the Euqjress Jingo, ruled over Japan, according
to the native annalists, from A.D. 201 to 269, when she died at the age
of one hundred ; but Mr. Aston, the leading authority on early Japanese
history, while not denying the existence of this Japanese Semiramis,
relegates most of her mighty deeds to the realm of fable. The chief legend
connected with her is that of the conquest of Korea, to which country
she crossed over Tsith a gallant lleet, aided by the fishes both gi-eat and
small and by a miraculous wave, and whence she returned only after
receiving the abject submission of the king. During the three years of
her absence in Korea, she held in her womb her son Ojin, who is worship-
ped as Hachiman, the (lod of War. Next she turned her attention east-
wards, and going in her lieet up the Inland Sea, smote the rebels of
Yamato, as Jimmu Tenno is said to have done before her. Indeed, it has
been suspected that the two legends are but slightly varying versions of
the same story.
76 Introduction: — Gdchrated Personages.
JocHO, the most oripninal of Japan's mediroval Kculptors, floniished
during the reign of the Emperor Go-Ichijo (A.D. lOlT-K.So). He carved
Buddhist subjects.
JosETSxj (flourished about A.D. 14(0) was a priest and celebrated
painter. Anderson calls him the Japanese Cimabue.
Kagkkiyo (second half of 12th century) -was a famous warrior of the
Taira fau.ily, to whom various picturesque legends attach. On one occa-
sion he tlisgr.ised himself as a Buddhist priest, and took part in a grand
temple ser%'ice as an opportunity for atfeuipting the life of Yoritomo.
After the ruin of his party, he put out his own eyes in order not to see the
triumph of the rival house of Minamoto.
Kano, the family name of a celebrated school of painters, which
originated in the 1 -th centmy and is not yet extinct. Its manner, which
appejirs highly conventional to Europeans, is classical in the eyes of the
Japanese. " The gi-eatest of these painters was Kano Motonobu (born 14^7).
Other noteworthy members of the family were K. Sh5ei, K. Eitoku, and
K. Sanraku (llith century \ K. Sansetsu, and especially K. Tan-yii.
K. Naonobu, K. Yasunobu, K. Toun, and K. Tsunenobu were also dis-
tinguished. All these names, from Sansetsu onwards, belong to the 17th
century. The Japanese custom of adoption is the key to the apparent
mystery of so many men similarly gifted arising in one family.
Kato Kivomasa was one of Hideyoshi's generals in the invasion of
Korea at the end of the lOth centiiry, and a tierce enemy of the Christians.
He is one of the most popular Japanese heroes, and is worshipped —
chiefly by the Nichiren sect of Buddhists — under the name of Seisho K6.
Kesa Gozen (I •2th century) is the subject of a celebrated story.
ThoTigh she was already wedded to another, her beauty inspired an
amorous passion in the breast of a cousin only seventeen years of age,
who did not hesitate to demand her of her mother. Alarmed for her
mother's safety. Mesa Gozen feigned consent to his adulterous wishes, but
on condition that he would first kill her husband. Then taking her
husband's place in bed, she awaited the assassin. The cousin accordingly
entered the room at midnight, and carried into effect liis murderous
intent, but was so bonified on discovering who his victim was that he
forsook the world and became a monk, and finally a saint under the name
of Mongaku Shdnin.
Ktyomoki (UlS — llSl) was head of the great house of Taira during its
struggles with the rival house of Minamoto, and during the brief period of
triumph which preceded its final overthrow at Dan-no-ura. li'rom the
year 11 SH until his death, Kiyomori was Jill-powerful, engrossing all the
highest offices of state for his own kinsmen, and governing the palace
through his Idnswomen where boy JMikados succeeded each other like
shadows on the throne. To suit his own convenience, he changed the
capital for a time from Kyoto to Fukuwara near the site of modern l\6be,
— an act of high-handed aiitocracy v/hich was bitterly relented by the
courtier.-; and the nobility, who?e habits were interfered with and their
resources tased by the double move. While irritating the upper classes
by his nepotism and overbearing demeanour, he ground down the com-
mon people by his exactions, and endeavoured utterly to exterminate the
Minamoto family. The famous beauty Tokiwa Gozen, handmaiden to
Yoshitomo, was forced to yield to his embraces in order to save the life of
her infant, the future here Y'^oshitsune ; and every woman that pleased his
fancy ]iad to minister to his lust. His eldest son Shigemori remonstrated
with him in vain. But the storm did not break in his time. He died in his
bed, leaving his whole house to perish four years later in a sea of blood.
Cehhraled Personages.
77
KoBO Daishi (774 — ^M), the most famons o£ all Japanese BnddliiRt
saints, was noted eqnally as preacher, painter, scnlptor, calligraphist, and
traveller. Had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty, he
could hardly have graven all the images, scaled all the mountain peaks,
confounded all the sceptics, wrought all the miracles, and performed all
the other feats with which he is popularly credited. Byobtx-ga-ura, near
the modern shrine of Kompira in Shilcoku, was his birth-place. His
conception was miraculous, and he came into the world with his hands
folded as if in prayer. He entered the priesthood in A.D. 7;j3. Various
legends are told of the trials to which he was subjected by evil sj^irits
during his novitiate. At Cape Muroto in Tosa dragons and other mon-
sters appeared out of the sea, and disturbed him in his devotions. These
he drove away by repeating mystic f ormul;B called Darani, and by spitting
at them the rays of the evening star
which had iiown from heaven into his
mouth. At a temiDle built by him on
this spot, he was constantly annoyed by
hobgoblins who forced him to enter into
conversation ; but he finally got rid of
them by surrounding himself v/ith a con-
secrated enclosure into wliich they were
unable to enter against his will. Having
been sent to China as a student in 8i 4,
much as promising Japanese youths are
sent to Europe or America to-day, he
became the favourite disciple of the great
abbot Hui-kwo (Jap. Kei-kwa), by whom
he was charged to carry back to Japan
the tenets of the Yogacharya, or, as it is
called in Japan, Shingon sect, v/hich
occupies itself gi'eatly Avith mjstic for-
mul33, magic spells, and incantations.
Kob5 Daishi returned home in S( (>, bring- , ,, .tc-ux
mg with mm a large quantity or iJiiddliist
books and devotional objects, and in 810 was installed as abbot of Toji
in Kyoto. A few years later he founded the great monastery of Koya-
san in Ivishii, where he spent the closing days of a life of incessant
toil. It is asserted that he did not die, but merely retired into a vaulted
tomb, where he still awaits the coming of Miroku, the Buddhist Messiah.
Among the innumerable great deeds with which, this saint is ciedited,
is the invention of the Hiragana syllabary. It should be noted tliat the
name K6b5 Daishi (lit. the Great '1 eacher Spreading Abroad the Law) is
a posthumous title conferred on him by the Emperor Daigo in the year
9.ii. His name while alive v;as Kukai.
KoBOR!, lord of Enshii (Ui77-1G!c), courtier to Eideyoshi and lej'jisu,
was the highest authority of his age on the tea ceremonies [cJin-nn-i/v) and
all the cognate esthetic pursuits which that term sums up to the Japanese
mind, — curio-colleciing, for instance, and the laying out of landscape
gardens. The still existing school of flower arrangement (Ensl.it ri;ii)
derived from him distinguishes itself from others by its greater elaborate-
ness and arliaciality.
KoJiMA Takanort, also called Bingo-no-Pabur5, was a high-born
warriur or the 11th century, celebrated for his romantic loyalty to the
Emperor Go-Daigo. When that ill-fated monarch was being carried off to
exile by the minions of the usurping house of Hojo, the faithful young
78 Introduction : — Celebrated Personagea.
soldier endeavoured to rescue him on the road. Having failed not only
in this, but even in gaining access for a moment to his master's person,
Kojima hit on a method of communication characteristically esthetic and
Japanese. Stealing at night into the garden of the inn where the Im-
perial party had halted, he scraped part of the bark of a cherry-ti-ee bare,
and on it ^^Tote the following Line of poetry
Avhich, being interpreted, signifies
" Heaven ! destroy not Kosen,
For he is not without a Haruei ! "
the allusion being to an ancient Chinese king, who, after twenty jeavs of
warfare, was at length helped to victory by the prowess of a faithful
vassal. AVhen day broke, the soldiers, seeing the writing, but being too
ignorant to decipher it, showed it to their Imperial captive, who at once
imderstood that it referred to himself and was meant to intimate that
faithful friends were at hand. The choice of a cherry-tree was not the
least significant j^art of the deed ; for that tree is in Jajjan the emblem
of patriotism and loyalty. Later on, Kojima died fighting for his sover-
eign, and artists still love to reproduce that scene of his life in which
loyalty and delicacy were so well combined.
KoMAcm (full name Ono-no-Komachi), the most famous of Japan's
many poetesses, seems to have flourished in the second half of the 9th
centm-5% and left a lasting impression on the national mind by her beauty,
her talents, and the miserable old age which was the reward of her pride
and frailty ; but nothing certain is known of her career. Every branch
of art borrows motives from Komachi's life. " She is shown," says
Anderson, " in her days of pride and luxury, drawing rain down upon
the parched earth by the numbers of her magic verse, bringing to
shame the rival who sought to fasten upon her the stigma of plagiaiism
and falsehood ; courted by the noblest of the brilhant band that sur-
rounded the throne, — and again, without a step of transition, old, en-
feebled, clad in unclean rags, begging her way from door to door until
she died, rotted, and became the food of dogs on the highway — a moral
illustration of the Buddhistic text, ' AU is vanity,' that the artist never
tires of repeating, and sometimes elaborates with sickening detail."
K5bin (latter haK of 17th century) was a famous lacquer artist and
painter.
KosE NO Kanaoka (second half of 9th century) was the first great
Japanese jjainter. A number of quaint legends testify to the effect which
his s kill produced on the minds of his contemporaries.
KtTMAGAi Naozane, a warrior of the latter half of the l'2th centmy, took
his surname from the town of Kumagai in the x^rovince of ilusashi, which
he received as a fief from Yoritomo. The most stidldng incident in his life
was his encounter ^^•ith Atsumori at the battle of Ichi-no-tani not far from
K5be, in the year 11 8i. Atsumoii v,-as a delicate young nobleman of the
Taira family, scarcely sixteen years of age, who, when the city of Fuku-
wara had been taken by the ilinamoto, sought safety like the rest of his
kindred in flight onboard a junk, but being pursued by Kumagai Nao-
zane, had to tight for his life. He succumbed to the veteran, who, tear-
ing off his helmet the better to sever his head, beheld the youthful face
and was struck with pity and sympathy, his own son having fallen earlier
in the day. He reflected, however, that to spare the boy's life might only
cause him to fall into more ruthless hands. So partly out of compassion.
Celebrated Personages. 79
and partly for the sake of his own reputation, he resolved to carry out his
first purpose. Atsumori submitted to his fate with heroic courage, while
Naozane, overwhelmed with bitter remorse, vowed never more to bear
arms, but to forsake the world and spend the remainder of his days in
praying for the soul of the fair youth whose life he had so unwillingly
talfen. He restored to Atsumori's father the head and the other spoils
which he had gained, and after the conclusion of the war went to Kydto,
and took monastic vows in the temple of Kurodani, where numerous rehcs
of him are shown to this day. The story has been di'amatised under the
title of Aisumori.
Ktjstjnoei Masashige, also called Nanko (first half of l-4th century),
is celebrated for his courage and for his unswerving loyalty to the throne.
Had the Emperor Go-Daigo listened to his advice, the rising power of the
house of Ashilcaga might have been crushed. As it was, Masashige was
unequally pitted against a superior foe ; and when his army had been
annihilated at the battle of Minato-gawa in 1336, he and a little band of
personal followers committed harakiri rather than surrender. A scene
which painters often delineate is Masashige, about to die, presenting to his
son the ancestral roll in order to stimulate him to deeds worthy of the
family renown.
KvosAi (1831-1890), an artist noted for vigorous tlrawing and
for caricature.
Masakado (killed A. D. 940) was the most celebrated of Japanese
rebels, and the only one who ever went so far as to arrogate to himself
the title of Milcado. For details, see under Narita (Route 5), and the
temple of Kanda Myojin in Tokyo.
MicHizANE (see Tenjin).
IVIiTO K5MON (1622-1700), second Prince of Mito, a near relative
of the Tokugawa iShoguns, helped greatly though unconsciously to the
final overthrow of their house, and of the whole feudal system a century
and a half later, by means of his celebrated historical work, the Dai
Mhon Shi, which first reminded thoughtful men that the Shoguns were
usurpers, and the Mikados the only rightful rulers of Japan. He also
patronised the new school of Shinto literati, whose studies led them, and
finally the majority of the edvicated public, to endeavour to bring back
the state of things supposed to have existed in pre-Buddhistic and pre-
feudal days. Popiilar tradition ascribes to this prince many fanciful
• undertakings, such as the endeavour to raise the great bell from the river
at Konodai, and to find the bottom of the Jcaname-ishi at Kashima, which
is supposed to be the pivot of the world.
The succeeding princes of the house of Mito inherited the hterary
and political views of their gi'eat ancestor. As late as 1840, the then
prince, " tired of preaching Shint5 and of persuading the Shogun to hand
over his authority to the Mikado, resolved to take up arms and to
try the wager of battle. To provide the sinews of war, he seized the Bud-
dhist monasteries, and melted down their enormous bronze bells, and
cast them into cannon. By prompt measiu-es the Shogun suppressed his
preparations for war, and imprisoned him for twelve years, releasing him
only in the excitement consequent upon the arrival of Perry." * The
son of this stout old imperialist became the last of the Shoguns, and
accomplished what his ancestors had laboured for, by the voluntary
siirrender of his rank and power to the Mikado.
MoNGAKU Shonin (see Kosa Gozen).
*Griffis's Mikado's Empire.
80
Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.
MoTOOEi NoRiNAGA (1730-18"1) was the prince of Japanese literati. A
pupil of the scarcely less distinguished scholar Mabnchi, he continued
Mabuchi's work of investigating Japanese antiquity, bringing back into
literary use the piu-e ancient Japanese language, restoring the Shinto
religion to the supremacy of which liuddhism had robbed it, — in a word,
emphasising and gloiitying everything native as against that part of
Japanese civilisation which was new and of extraneous origin. The resto-
ration of the Mikado to the absolute authority which centuiies before had
been usurped by the Shoguns, was naturally a prime object of the endea-
vours of a man to whom antiquity and perfection were convertible terms,
and in whose belief the Miliado was really and truly a descendant of the
Goddess of the Sun. Motoori and his school thus became to some extent
the authors of the revolution which, half a century later, overturned the
Shogunate and brought the Mikado forth from seclusion to govern as
well as reign. Motoori's works were very numerous, 'i he gi'eatest is his
elaborate commentary on the Kojiki, called Knfikl Den, which is practical-
ly an encyclop:vdia of ancient Japanese lore, written in a style as clear as
it is elegant. The printing of the forty-four volumes of which it consists
wa.s not concluded till 1S22, long after the author's death.
MuRASAKi Shikibu (flouiished circa A.D. 1001 ') was a Court lady,
and the most celebrated of Japanese romance-writers. Her chief work
is the Genj'i Mono/iatari.
, Nakihira {A.b. 825-880), the
Don Juan of ancient Japan.
NicHiRKN was born at Ko-
minato in the province of Awa, at
the mouth of Yedo Bay, in A.D.
1222. At the age of twelve, he be-
came an acolyte of the Shingon
sect of Buddhists, and was admitted
to the priesthood three years later.
Shortly afterwards, he adopted the
name by which he is laiown to his-
tory. It signifies " Lotus of the
Sun," and is derived from a dream
which came to his mother of the
sivn on a lotus-flower, in con-
sequence of which she became preg-
nant. He acquired a thorough know-
ledge of the whole Buddhist canon
by means of a miracle, and met in
the coirrse of his studies with words
which he converted into the formula
Aamu My nil Eenge Kyo, "Oh, the
Scripture of the Lotus of the Won-
derful Law " — a formula which is
still constantly used by his fol-
lowers as an invocation, and which is
to be seen carved on stones all over
the country in the eccentric calli-
graphy {liiije-d<nmoku) represented
in the illustration.
Having excited the wrath of the Eegent H6j6 J'okiyori by the unspar-
ing manner in which he attacked other sects, he was banished to the
'^xvfr rTj
"L
higk-daimoku.
Celebrated Personages. 81
peninsTiIa of Izu in r2i>1, but pardoned soon after. Ten years later, hia
enemies persiiaded the Eegent Tokimune that Nichiren's doctrines tended
to subvert the state. He was seized and thrown into a cave with his six
chief disciples, and condemned to be beheaded the same night, but when
brought to the place of execution, was saved by a miracle, the executioner's
sword failing to act on the head of so holy a man ; and Toldumne, warned
in a dream, spared his life. Nichiren was, however, banished to the island
of f-ado in the north, but was permitted in 1'27'4 to return to Kamakura,
then the military capital of Eastern Japan, tie next retired to live among
the mountains of Minobu in a hut, which he quitted in order to take iip
his abode with the lord of the manor, Nambu Eokuro, a devotee so zealous
that he bestowed on the saint and his sect forever all the lands in his pos-
session. As crou'ds of disciples flocked to Nichiren for instruction in the
faith, he erected a small shrine which became the nucleiis of the now
famoiis monastery of Minobu. In 1282, feeling that death was approach-
ing, he removed from Minobu to Hcegami, near the modern city of T6ky5,
and there died. His body was cremated on the spot and the bones were
conveyed to Minobu, only a small portion being retained at Ikegami as a
precious rehc. Bis zeal and his intolerance appear to have been inherited
by his spiritual children, — the Mchi.ren-'^liu, or Uokke-shfi, as the sect
derived from him is also called, having pushed the odium iheoloijUxim to a
degree otherwise rare in Japan. The chief outward and visible — or rather
audible — sign of theii temples is the drum, which the faithful beat for
hours together to keep time to their chanting of the sacred formula Namu
Myoho L'en'ie Eyo. Nichiren's crest is the orange-blossom (tndubanu).
NiTTA YosHisADA, a warrior of the 1 Ith century, famed for his courage
and for his devotion to the Mikado's cause against the usurping families
of Hojo and Ashikaga. An incident in his life which artists love to depict,
is that related at the end of the description of Kamakura in Koute 2.
NoBUNAGA,* properly Ota NnburuKja (1531-1582), was a %yarrior who,
in the general scramble for land and xaower which went on in the latter
half of _the I6th century, gained possession of the provinces of Suruga,
Mino, Omi, Mikawa, Ise, and Echizen. Having next taken Kyoto, he
built the stronghold of Nij5, and sided with AshUcaga Yoshiaki, who by
his influence was made Shognu in 155S. Six years later the two quaiTel-
led. Nobunaga arrested and deposed Yoshiaki ; and the power of the
Ashikaga family, which had lasted two hundred and thirty-eight years,
came to an end. By the aid of his generals Hideyoshi and leyasu, he
brought large portions of the empire under his sway, but never obtained
the title of Shogun, which custom had limited to members of the
Minamoto family, whereas Nobunaga was of 'J'aira descent. Though a
gi'eat soldier, Nobunaga lacked the administrative ability to follow up
and consolidate the advantages gained in war. Consequently, when he
was assassinated by an offended subordinate named Akechi, his power
died with him. Nobunaga was a bitter foe to Buddhism. Among
his many acts of violence, was the destruction of jthe gi'eat monastery of
Biei-zan near Kyoto and of the Hongwanji at Osaka, on both which
occasions frightful scenes of massacre ensued. On the other hand, he
encouraged the Christians ; but it is not to be supposed that a man of his
stamp did so out of any appreciation of then- theological tenets.
Ogubi Hangwan (15th century) and his faithful wife or mistress,
Terute Hime, belong rather to romance than to sober history. Robbers
*ThlB article is taken almost verbally from Griflia'a Mikado's Empire, Chap.
XX tu.
82 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.
having plotted to drug liim with sake and ninrder him during the night,
she— at that time one of the courtesans of the village, who had been
invited to assist in the revels — informed him of the plot. Vaulting upon
the back of a wUd horse found in a thicket close by, he escaped to
Fujisawa on the Tokaido, where his tomb and Terute Hime's are still
shown. On another occasion, his enemies decoyed him into a poisonous
bath which produced leprosy ; but Terute Hime wheeled him in a barrow
from Kamakiira all the way to the hot springs of Yunomine in Kishu,
where a single week's bathing restored him to health and strength.
Okyo (1733-1795), properly called Maruyama Okyo, was the founder
of the Shijo school of painters, whose watchword was fidelity to nature,
though, as Anderson points out, their practice was far less radical than
their theory, and did not lead them actually to reject the conventions
of their predecessors. Okyo was specially successful in his representation
of birds and tishes.
Ota Nobunaga (see Nobunaga).
Eai San-yo (1780-1832) was an excellent poet in the Chinese style and
a great traveller, but above all a historian. Ilis chief work, the Nihon
Oicaishi, which treats in detail the period from the middle of the twelfth
to the beginning of the eighteenth century, was published in 1827, and is
still widely read. Its strongly pronounced imperialism has contributed
more than anything else to mould the opinions of the governing class
during the last fifty years.
Saigo Takamoki (1827-1877), a samurai of Satsttma, whose youth coin-
cided with the closing years of the Japanese ancien re(jime, conspicuously
distinguished himself on the imperialist side. Before the triumph of the
latter he was thrice exiled to Oshima in Luchu, as a political suspect ;
but after the revolution of 1868, to the success of which he contributed
so materially as to earn the title of Commander-in-Chief of the Imperial
forces, he became one of the most important personages in the state.
His programme, however, was no radical one. Wlien his colleagues in
the government showed that their aim was not, as had at first been
asserted, a return to the Japan of early historic days, but the complete
Europeanisation of the country and the abandoment of national usages and
traditions, Saigo broke with them, and retired to the city of Kagoshima
in Satsuma, where he founded a military school to whicla all the ardent
youth of Satsuma and Osumi soon began to flock. The influence of this
school precipitated the inevitable conflict between the old and the new
order of ideas. It broke out in 1877, and is known to history as the
Satsuma Eebellion. After a sti-uggle of several months, the imperialists
triumphed, and Saig5 himself fell on the 24th September, as did the whole
of the little band of five hundred that had remained faithful to him till
the end. Saigo's reputation never sufEered in pubhc esteem ; and even
the Imperial Court now respects his memory, the ban of degradation
having been removed in 1890, and the dead Commander-in-Chief re-
instated posthumously in all his honours. The visit of the Czarevitch
(the present Czar) to Japan in 1891 helped to give credence to a wild
notion according to which Saigo had, like YosMtsune centuries before,
escaped to Siberia.
Saigyo Hoshi (died A.D. 1198) was an eccentric monk and famous
poet of noble birth.
The San-ju-eok-ka-sen, or Thirty-six Poetical Geniiises, flourished
during the 8th, 9th, and 10th centuries. The gi-ouping of their names in
a galaxy is attributed to a court noble of the 11th century, named Kinto
Celebrated Fersonagns. 83
Dainagou. Tlieir portraits, which were first jKiinted by Fujiv,ara-no-
Nobiizane about A.D. 1200. freqnently iidorn the walls of Ryobu Shinto
temples. A complete list of their names will be found in Anderson's
interesting Catalogue of Japanese and Cliinese Paintings.
Sei Shonagon (circa A.D. 1000), a Court la<ly celebrated in Japanese
literature for her volume of miscellanies, entitled " Makura no Soshi."
Sen-no-Eikyti (1521-1591) is revered as a legislator of taste, especially
in such thoroughly Japanese arts as flower arrangement and the tea
ceremonies.* He began his esthetic career at the age of seventeen, and
became a great favourite with Ilideyoshi, accompanying that general in
liis campaigns to preside at tea parties in tlie intervals of battle. As a
connoisseiir in articles of vbiii,, he amassed a large fortune by dishonest
means, jiassing off new things as old, spurious as genuine. Ilideyoshi at
last gxew tired of him, and matters were brought to a climax when Sen-
no-Kikyu refused to give up to this all-powerful jiatron his lovely
daughter who was already betrothed to another. Orders were sent to him
to commit harakiri, which he thd in his tea-room after maldng tea,
arranging a bouquet, and composing a Buddhist stanza.
Sesshu (1421-1507) was the gi'eatest Japfinese artist of the Chinese
school of painting. Anderson says of him :
"It is difficult for a European to estimate Sesshu at his true value...
Notwithstanding the boast of the artist that the scenery of China was
his only teacher, and the credit bestowed upon him by his admirers of
having invented a new style, he has in no respect departed from the
artiticial rules accepted by his fellow painters. He was, however, an
original and powerful artist, and his renderings of Chinese scenery bear
evidences of local study that we look for in vain in the works of his
successors. The grand simplicity of his landscape compositions, their
extraordinary breadth of design, the iUusive siiggestions of atmosphere
and distance, and the all-pervading sense of poetry, demonstrate a genius
that could rise above all defects of theory in the princii^Ies of his art."
Shinran Shonin (1173-1262) was the founder of the powerful Ikko
sect of Buddhists, also called Shinshu or Monto, whose splendid temples,
known by the name of Hongivanjl or Monzeki, are among the finest
specimens of Japanese architecture. Ilongwavji means " the Monastery of
the Beal Vow," in allusion to the vow made by Amida that he would not
accept Buddhahood unless salvation were made attainable by all who
shoiild sincerely desire to be born into his kingdom, and signify that
desire by invoking his name ten times. It is upon a passage in a
Biuldhist scripture where this vow is recorded that the pecirliar doctrine
of the sect is based, its central idea being that man is to be saved by
faith in the merciful jDower of Amida, and not by works or by vain repeti-
tion of prayers. For this reason, and also because its jiriests are permitted
to many, this sect has sometimes been called the Protestantism of
Japan. In the year 1602 political reasons caused a split in the sect,
which since that time has been tlivided into a Western and an Eastern
branch, — J!flshi Ilongucanji und Higashi Ilongwanji, — each branch owning a
temple in every considerable city. Shinran Shonin was descended from
the Imjierial family. The abbots of the sects therefore bear the title of
Monzeki, or Imjierial Offspring, while the walls enclosing its temples are
allowed the suji-kabe or suji-bei, — striped plaster ornamentation otherwise
reserved for buildings inhabited by Imperial princes. During the present
reign, Shinran Shonin has been honoured by the bestowal of the
* See Things Japanese.
84 Introduction: — Celebrated Personages.
posthumous title of Eenshin Daishi, that is, " the Great Teacher who Sees
the Truth."
Shodo Shonin. See under Nikko, Koute 17.
Shotoku Taishi (o72-'J21), the Constantine of Japanese Buddhism,
was son of the Emperor Yomei and Regent under the Empress Suiko,
but never himseK actually ascended the throne. He founded a large
number of monasteries, framed a code of laws, and is said to have
introduced the use of the calendar into Japan. He is also the reputed
author of numerous paintings and sculptures, which Anderson, however,
inclines to consider apocryphal. A favourite art-molive is the victory of
Shotoku Taishi over Mononobe-no-Moriya, who championed the old
native Shinto religion as against the Buddhist innovators. He even went
so far, on the Emperor Yomei's death, as to set up a candidate for the
Imperial crown, of whom Shotoku Taishi, and his minister Soga-no-Umako
disapproved. An appeal to arms having been made, the Shintoists were
beaten and Mononobe-no-Moriya was killed.
Shubun (loth century), one of the greatest Japanese painters of the
Chinese school.
SoAMi (second half of the 15th century), a celebrated dilettante and
favourite of the Shogun Yoshimasa. Many of the noted landscape gardens
of Kyoto were designed by him.
SoGA Ktodai, that is, the Soga Brethren Jur5 and Goro, have re-
mained national heroes on account of the pious vendetta which they
executed in the hunting-camp of the Shogun Y'^oritomo at the base of Fuji,
in the year 1193, on Kudo Stiketsune, the murderer of their father. Juro
perished in the attempt, while Goro was captured, brought before
Yoritomo, and condemned to have his head hacked off with a blunt sword.
Together with their nameshas been preserved that of Tora Gozen, a
courtesan of the town of Oiso on the Tokaido, who was the younger
brother's mistress, and who, no less faithful than fair, aided him in his
revenge and became a nun after his death.
SosEN (1717-1821), an artist of the Shijo school, famed for his paint-
ings of monkeys.
Takauji (1305-1356), founder of the Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns
(see Go-Daigo Teww, p. 72).
Takeda Shingen (1521-1573) was one of the fiercest feudal chieftains
of the lawless times that preceded the establishment of the Tokugawa
dynasty of Shoguns. The eldest son of his father, lord of Koshu, it was
his fate to be unjustly passed over by that father in favour of his second
brother ; and he was obliged to feign stupidity as a boy, in order to live
in safety. "^Taen, however, both youths had reachei man's estate,
Takeda Shingen's superiority in skill and coiurage gained all the warriors
over to his side, and he succeeded his father without demur. His
whole time was spent in waging war against the barons of the neighbour-
ing provinces of Central and Eastern Japan, especially against Uesugi
Kenshin, lord of Echigo. Their most famous battle was that of Kawa-
naka-jima. In middle life he became converted to the doctrines of the
Tendai sect of Buddhism, built a temple to the god Bishamon, did public
penance, abjured the eating of fish and aU female companionship, and
went so far as to have himself decorated with the title of archbishop, — for
what ecclesiastical authorities were going to refuse anything to a zealot
who disposed of so many soldiers ? He did not, however, renounce his
grand passion, war, but kept on fighting tUl the end, his latter years being
much disturbed by the consciousness of the gi'owing power of leyasu, and
being divided between quarrels and reconciliations with that great captain.
Celebrated Personages. 85
When mortally wounded, he left orders with his successor to hold no
funeral service in his honour, but to keep his death a profound secret
for three years and then to sink his body privately in Lake Suwa,
enclosed in a stone coffin, This was in order to prevent his numerous
foes from taking heart at the news of his decease. His last will and
testament was only partially obeyed ; for though his death was kept
tecret as long as possible, the body was not sunk in the lake, but buried
at the temple of Eirinji at Matsuzato, a few miles from Kofu. The place
still exists, the temple garden being a tasteful specimen of rockery on a
large scale. Brave but superstition, Takeda Shingen was also an adept
at governing men. His people loved and respected him, as was shown
by the fact that none ever rebelled against him, even in that turbulent
age when every man's hand was against every man.
Take-no-tjchi no Sukune, the Methuselah of Japan, is said to have
lived two hundred and fifty-five years (according to others, three hundred
and sixty years), and to have served six successive Mikado's. His birth
is supposed to have taken place about 200 B. C.
Tamuea-mako (died A. D. 811), the bravest and most successful
generalissimo {Slid gun) of his time. He sudded the Ainos, who then
inhabited the northern portion of the Main Island almost as far south
as Sendai.
Toba Sojo, an abbot of the 13th century, is remembered as the origi-
nator of a quaint, coars style of picture called after him Toha-e.
Toki Busshi (early in the lih. century), so called from the resem-
blance of his face to that of a bird, was the first great Japanese sculptor.
He was of Chinese descent, and carved Buddhist images. Some of his
works still survive at the temple of Horyuji near Nara.
ToBii KiYONOBu (flourished 1710-1730) was the founder of the
theatrical school of popular illustration. Numeroiis successors carried
on his school under the same surname of Torii.
ToYOKUNi (1772-1828) was a great artist in colour-printing. Many
of the broadsides bearing his name are, however, fi'om the brush of
certain of his pupils.
TsuBATUKi (884-94:0), Court noble M'ho was one of Japan's greatest
classic poets. He was also her first prose writer, the works by which he
is best known being the " Tosa Niki," a charmingly simple and life-like
account of his voyage home to Kyoto by junk from Tosa, where he had
been governor, and the extremely elegant Preface to the " Kokinshu," or
" Odes Ancient and Modern," of which he was one of the editors.
Uesugi Kenshin (1530-1578) was one of the most representative men
of his turbulent and superstitious century. As cadet of an ancient and
powerful family, he had been entered as an acolyte in a Buddhist
temple, but emerged from retirement to seize the paternal inheritance
from the feeble grasjD of an elder brother. To the family domain of
Echigo, he added Etchu, Noto, and Sado, together with portions of
several other provinces, rivalling not only Takeda Shingen, the famous
lord of Koshu, but the great Nobunaga himself. He was as noted for
high principle as for prowess in war, and, regarding himself as a priest
to the end, never married and so left no successor. He is represented in
art holding in his hand a bamboo stick with which he was wont to direct
his men in the field, instead of with the war-fan the usual.
Unkei, a famous mediaeval sculptor of Buddhist images.
Ukashima Taeo, the Japanese Kip Van Winkle, is said by the
national historians to have left Japan in A. D. 477, and to have returned
in 825. His legend lakes a hundred forms. The following is not only
86 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.
the simplest, but the most ancient, being translated as literally as
possible from a ballad contained in the Man-yo-shu, an anthology which,
dates from A.D. 760. The poem itself is probably far older : —
THE FISHER-BOY rKASHDIA.
'Tis Spring, and the mist comes stealing
O'er Suminoye's shore.
And I stand by the sea-side musing
On the days that are no more.
I muse on the old-world story.
As the boats glide to and fro.
Of the fisher-boy Urashima,
^\Tio a-fishing loved to go, —
How he came not back to the Aillage
Though sev'n suns ha<l risen and set.
But rowed on past the bound of ocean.
And the Sea-God's daughter met ;
JIow the pledged their faith to each other,
.And came to the Evergreen Land,
And entered the Sea-God's palace
So lo^ingly hand in hand.
To dwell for aye in that country.
The Ocean-maiden and he, —
The country where youth and beauty
Abide eternally.
But the foolish boy said, 'To-morrow
I'll come back with thee to dwell ;
But I have a word to my father,
A word to my mother to tell.'
The maiden answered, ' A casket
I give into thine hand :
And if that thou hopest truly
To come back to the Evergreen Land,
' Then ojjen it not, I charge thee ;
Open it not, I beseech ! ' —
So the boy rowed home o'er the billows
To Suminoye's beach.
But where is his native hamlet ?
Strange hamlets line the stand.
^\Tiere is has mother's cottage "
Strange cots rise on either hand.
' What ! in three short years since I left it '
He cries in his wonder sore,
' Has the home of my childhood vanished ?
Is the bamboo fence no more ?
Celebrated Personage.s. 87
' Perchance if I open the casket
"WTiich the maiden gave to me,
My home and the dear old viUage
WUl come back as they used to be.'
And he lifts the hd, and there rises
A fleecy, silvery cloud,
That floats off to the Evergreen Country —
And the fisher-boy cries aloud,
He waves the sleeve of his tunic,
He rolls over on the gi'ound,
He dances with fury and horror.
Running wildly round and round.
But a sudden chill comes o'er him
That bleaches his raven hair,
And furrows wth hoary WTinkles
The form erst so young and fair.
His breath grows fainter and fainter,
TiQ at last he sinks dead on the shore ;
And I gaze on the spot where his cottage
Once stood, but now stands no more.
Yamato-take no Mtkoto, one of the eighty children of the Emperor
Keiko, was a great hero of the prehistoric age. While yet a stripling, he
Avas sent by his father to destroy the rebels of Western Japan. In order
to accomplish this end, he borrowed the gown of liis aunt who was high-
priestess of Ise, and, thus disguisjed, made the rebel chieftains fall in love
with him while carousing in the cave where they dwelt. Then suddenly
drawing a sword from his bosom, he smote them io death. He next
subdued the province of Izumo, and finally conquered Eastern Japan,
which was at that time a barbarous waste. After many adventures both
warlike and amorous, he died on the homeward march to Yamato, where
the Emperor his father held Court, and his tumulus is sho'.\n at Noboro
in the province of Ise.
YoEiTOMO (1147-11!)!)) was the founder of the Shogunate, — -the first
Japanese ]Mayor of the Palace, if one may so phrase it. A scion of the
great house of Minamoto, as shre^^'d and ambitious as he was unscrupulous
and inhuman, he was left an orphan at an early age, and barely escaped
death as a lad at the hands of Kiyomori, the then all-powerful minister,
who belonged to the rival house of Taira. Kiyomoii's exactions having
roused the indignation of the whole empire, Y'oritomo saw that the
moment had come to essay the restoration of his own fortunes. All the
malcontents eagerly flocked to his standard ; and first in Eastern Japan,
then iit Kyoto, and lastly at the great sea-fight of Dan-no-ura near
Shimonoseki at the S.W. end of the Inland Sea, Yoritomo defeated the
Taira and utterly exterminated them, putting even women and chilthen
to the sword. Yoritomo established his capital at Kamaknra, which soon
gi'ew into a great city, thoroughly reorganised the iKlministration by the
appointment of military governors chosen from among his own people,
to act conjointly with the civil governors who received their nominations
from the ilikado, by the levy of taxes for military purposes payable
into his own treasiuy, and by other far-sighled innovations made in the
88 Introduction : — Population of Chief Ciiies.
interests of a military feudalism. At last in 1192, he obtained — in other
words forced — from the Court of Ky5to the title of Sei-i Tai Shogun, that
is " Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo," which soon came to denote the
military or actual ruler of the country, as distinguished from its theoretical
head, the heaven-descended IMikado. Yoritomo, whose life had been spent
fighting, died peacefully in his bed. Among the many on whom lie
trampled to satisfy the dictates of personal ambition, was his own brother
YosMtsune, a far nobler character. Though Yoritomo's system of govern-
ment remained in vigour for weU-nigh seven centuries, the sceptre dropped
from his own family in the generation following his death, his sons Yoriie
and Sanetomo being weaklings who both perished by assassination at an
early age.
Y'^osHiMAsA (1436-1490), eighth Shdgun of the Ashikaga dynasty, was a
munificent patron of the ails.
YosHiTSCNE (b. 1159), also called TJshi-waka, was younger half-brother
to the first Shogun Yoritomo, being the son of Yoshitomo by a beautiful
concubine named Tokiwa Gozen. By yielding to the wicked desires of the
tyrant Eiyomori, Tokiwa obtained pardon for her son on condition that
he shaved his head and became a monk. Accordingly he was placed in
the Buddhist monastery of Kurama-yama near Kyoto. But theological
exercises were so little to his taste that he ran away to Northern Japan
in company wth a friendly merchant, and at once distinguished himseK
by the valovir with which he repelled the assaults of the brigands, slaying
several with his own hand, though then himself but sixteen years of
age. When Yoritomo rose in arms against the Tana family, Yoshitsune
natm-aUy joined him, and became his greatest general. Indeed, the real
guerdon belonged rightfully to the younger rather than to the elder
brother. Yoritomo, far from feeling any gratitude, began to burn with
jealousy and to detest Yoshitsune as a possible rival. He even went so
far as to compass his death. But Yoshitsune escaped again to Northern
Japan, where, according to one account, he was discovered by spies, and
killed after a desperate fight on the banks of the Koromo-gawa, his head
being sent to Yoritomo at Kamakura, preserved in sake. Others say that
he committed harakin when he saw that all was lost, having previously
killed his own wife and children. A more fanciful account is that he
escaped to Y'^ezo, and then re-appeared on the mainland of Asia as
Genghis Khan. This fable probably originated in an accidental similarity
between the Chinese characters used to vsrite the names of these two
famous men ; but it is a remarkable fact that to this day Yoshitsune
remains an object of worship among the Ainos of Yezo. To the Japanese
his name is a synonym for single-minded bravery and devotion. The
traveller will often hear mentioned in connection with the name of
Yoshitsune those of Benkei, his faithful retainer, and Yasuhira, the
traitor suborned by Yoritomo to slay him.
27. — Population of the Chief Citie-s.
Akashi ...
AMta ...
Aomori ...
Ashikaga
Atsuta ...
Chiba ...
21,0(]0
Fukuoka
29,000
Fukushima
28,000
Fushimi
21,000
Gifu ...
25,000
Hachioji
26,000
Hakodate
66,000
21,000
22,000
31,000
23,000
78,000
Fukui M.OOd Himeji 35,000
Outline Tou7'.s.
89
Birosald
Hiroshima
Kagoshima
Kanazawa
Kiryu . . .
Kobe ...
Kocbi . . .
Kofu ...
Kokura...
Kumamoto
Kure ...
Kiirume
Kuwana
Kyoto ...
Maebashi
Mamgame
Matsue . . .
Matsumoto
Matsuyama
Mito ...
Moji
Morioka
Nafa ...
Nagano...
Nagasaki
Nagoya...
Nara
Niigata . . .
Okayama
Onomiehi
35,000
122,000
53,000
84,000
24,000
216,000
37,000
38,000
27,000
61,000
22,000
29,000
20,000
353,000
34,(J00
25,000
35,000
31,000
37,000
34,000
25,000
33,000
35,000
31,000
107,000
244,000
31,000
53,000
58,000
22.000
Osaka
. ... 821,000
Otaru
. ... 57,000
Otsu
. ... 34,000
Saga
. ... 33,000
Sakai ...
. ... 50,000
Sakata
22,000
Sapporo
. ... 37,000
Sendai
. . . 83,000
Shimonoseld ... .
. ... 43,000
Shizuoka
. ... 42,000
Shuri
. 25,000
Takamatsu
. ... 34,000
Takaoka
. ... 31,000
Takasaki
. ... 31,000
Tochigi
... 22,000
Tokushima
. ... 62,000
Tokyo
1,440,000
Toyama
. ... 60,000
Toyohasbi
. ... 22,000
Tsu ... .
. ... 33,000
Tsuru-ga-okii ... .
. ... 20,000
Ueda
. . 24,000
Utsunomiya ... .
. ... 32,000
Wakamatsu
. ... 29,000
Wakayama
. ... 64,000
Yamada
. ... 28,000
Yamagata
. ... 35,000
Y^okkaicbi
. ... 25,000
Yokohama
. ... 194,000
Yokosuka
. ... 25,000
28. — Outline Toubs.
1. — One Month's Tour from Yokohama: —
Tokyo
Kamakiira and Enoshima
Miyanoshita (visit Hakone)
From Miyanoshita to Nagoya by Tokaido Eailway . . .
Nagoya
From Nagoya to Kydto
Ky5to
Lake Biwa and back to Kyoto
From Kyoto to Nara and Kobe
From Kobe to Yokohama by steamer (by rail | day less)
From Y'^okohama to Nikk5 by rail
Nikko and Chuzenji
From Nikko to Ikao via Ashio and the Watarase-gawa
Ikao (visit Haruna)
From Ikao to Kusatsu
Kusatsu
From Kusatsu to Karuizawa
Fi'om Karuizawa via Myogi-san to Tokyo
3 days
1 „
3 „
1 „
X
4 „
1 „
1 „
^ „
1 „
3 .,
2 „
2
1 I
1 „
1 n
U .,
90
Introiiictlon : — Oidlm", Tour.
Spare day
Total.
With tliis tour may be combined the ascent of Fuji from Yokohama
(Eoute 9). Those who object to pui-ely Japanese accommodation should
omit the joiu-ney fr'om Nikko to Il^ao ■sia Ashio. taldng train instead, and
also the visit to Kusatsu.
2. — One Month's Tour fiom Kohe : —
Kobe
Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa
Train fi-om Kydto to Gifu ; along the Nakasendo to Asama-yama
and Karuizawa
From Karuizawa to Ikao
Ikao
From Ikao to Nikkd via the Watarase-gawa
Nikk5 and Chuzenji
By rail to Tolcyo
Tokyo
Yokohama, Kamakura, and Miyanoshita
By Tokaido Railway to Nagoya
Bail to Kobe
Spare day
Total
1 day
4.'. ,.
1^ „
1 ,.
1 „
31
If coming up the Tokaido instead of the Nakasendo, the jom-ney may
be broken either at Nagoya or else at Shizuoka, from which latter place
by jim-ikisha via Kuno-zan to Okitsu, and on by rail to Kozu.
3. — One Month's Tour from Xagasaki: —
Nagasaki and Onsen (Unzen)
Fi-om Nagasaki to Kobe by steamer* ...
Nara. Kyoto, and Lake Biwa .. .
From Kyoto to Nagoya by Tokaido Bailway
Fi'om Nagoya to Miyanoshita
ilijanoshita
From Miyanosliita to Kauiakina and Yokohau
Y'okohama
Tokyo
From Tokyd to Nikko and back
Steamer from Y'okohama to Nagasald
Spare days
4 days^
Total...
31
4. — It frequently happens that travellers from America, en 7-oule to
Europe \iA India, have only a fortnight to devote to Japan between the
steamer that di-ops them at Yokohama and the next one that picks them
up at Kobe. To such the following outhne is suggeste^l ; it entails no
sleeping at native inns : —
* Or else rail to Moji, steamer to terminus of Sanyo line, and rail to Kobe, stopping
one night at Hiroshima after visiting Miyajima.
OaH;nf^ Tovr.^. 91
Yokohama (shopping, traveUing arrangements) 2 days
Tokyo (sights and the theatre) 2 „
Tokyo to Nikko and back to Yokohama 'i „
By Tokaido Kailway to Miyanoshita, visiting Kamakrira and
Enoshima en route 1
IMiyanoshita 1 ..
By rail to Kyoto 1 „
Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe 4 „
Total U
All the above tours are i^racticable for ladies. Shorter tonrs can
easily be arranged by omitting certain portions of them.
5. Y'okohama to Mijanoshita, Hakone, and Atami. Three or foitr
days. (Route (> and 7.)
(\. From Yokohama to Gotemba, and round Fuji via the Lakes to
Shoji. Thence to Y'oka-ichiba, and down the rapids of the Fujikawa
(visiting Minobu) to Iwabuchi on the Tokaido Eailwa^'. Or from Shdji to
Kofu, Kajika-zawa, and thence down the rapids. One week. (Eoutes 10
and 27.)
7. From Y'okohama to Niklco, the copper mines of Ashio, down the
valley of the "\Vatarase-gawa to Omama, and back to Yokohama by rail.
Five days. One day extra for Koshin-zan. (Eoutes 17 and 19.)
8. From Yokohama to Nikko, Chuzenji, and Y'umoto ; thence over the
Konsei-toge to Shibukawa for Ikao, and back to Yokohama by rail. One
week. (Eoutes 17, 18, and 14.)
•J. From Yokohama to Ikau, 1st day ; Xlcao to Kusatsu, 2nd day ;
Kusatsu to Shibu, 3rd day ; Bhiliu to Toyono and Nagano, 4th day ; fi-om
Nagano to Myogi-san via Karuisawa, 5th day ; rail fi-om ]\Iatsuida to
Y'"okohama in 5 j hrs., Gth day. < )ne day extra for ascent of Asama-yama
fiom KaruizaAva. (Eoutes 14, 12. and 13.) _
10. From Yokohama to Nagano by rail, back to Oya to rejoin the
Nakasendo, thence along the Nakasendo to Gifu, and by rail to Kyoto.
Eight or nine days. (Eoutes 26 and 24.)
11. From Yokohama to Shimo-no-Suwa via Kofu and the Koshu
Kaido, or by the Nakasendo as in No. 10 ; and down the rapids of the
Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido Eailwav. Five or six daj'S. (Eoutes 27, 24.
and 30.)
12. The shrines of Ise. Four days from Y'okohama, or three days
from Kobe. (Eoutes 23 and 32.)
13. From Kyoto through Yamato to Koya-san, and back by Walax-
yama. Four days. (Eoutes 35-37.)
14. From Kyoto via Lake ]5iwa to Ama-no-Hashitliite, and back \iei
the silver mines of Dctino to tlic Sanyo Eailway at Himeji. One week.
(Eoute 41.)
15. Eough mountain tour through Hida and Etchii fTom Matsumoto
to Hirayu and Takayama ; thence down the valley of the ITidagawa to
Gifu on the Tokaido Eailway. Eight or ten days. (Eoute 31.)
16. Tour of the Inland Sea and Shilcokn. Time uncertixin. (Eoutes
43, 47-51.)
17. Island of Shikoku : — landing at jVIitsu-ga-hama for Matsuyama
and Dogo ; across country to Kochi ; across country to Hakuchi. whence
either E. down rapids of Yoshino-gawa to Tokushima, or N. to shiines of
Kompira ; Tadotsu, Talcamatsu, Kobe. Ten days. (Eoutes 47-4'.>, 51).
92 Introduction: — Outline Tours.
18. From NagasaH to the solfataras of Onsen (Unzen) and back.
Three days. (Eoute 53.)
19. From Nagasaki to Knmamoto and across Kyushu via Aso-san and
Takeda to Beppu. Thence to Nakatsu and Moji, visiting the Yabakei
Valley. Ten or twelve days. (Routes 54 and 58.)
20. By steamer from Nagasaki to Kagoshima (or else Boute 63 re-
versed). Back to Nagasaki \ia Kirishima-yama and the rapids of the
Kumagawa. Eight or ten days. (Eoutes 61 and 62.)
21. From Tokyo by rail to Sendai, by boat to Matsushima, and
back. Three days. Two extra days to visit Bandai-san. (Routes 65, 70,
and 66.)
22. By steamer from Yokohama to Hakodate and Otaru ; rail to
Sapporo and Muroran ; steamer to Hakodate and Aomori ; back to Yoko-
hama by rail, visiting Matsushima, Bandai-san, and Nikko en route. A
fortnight. (Routes 79, 81, 65, 70, 66, and 17.)
23. Island of I'^ezo : — by steamer from llakodate to Muroran ; rail to
Nobori-betsu for hot springs, and to Sapporo, visiting Yubari on the way.
From Sapporo to Hakodate as in No. 22 (reversed), or by coast and inland
roads via Suttsu, Setanai, and Esaslii. Nine or ten days. Three or four
extra days to visit Piratori (Eoutes 79-81.)
GLOSSARY OF JAPANESE WORDS.
Ai (see ayu).
Aird,ono, a secondary deity to
whom, in addition to the prin-
cipal object of worship, a Shinto
temple is dedicated.
Ama-inu and Koma-inu, one open-
mouthed, ,s>'i®\
the other
with mouth
closed; but v ^^\
opinions \ ^^^.
differ as to ^^ =^
which is Li==^
which (comp. p. 40).
Asemi, a flowering shrub, — the
Andromeda japonica.
Ayu (often pronounced at), a spe-
cies of trout, — the Salmo altwalis.
JBampei, a screen opposite a temple
gate.
Basha, a carriage.
Bashi (for hashi in compounds), a
bridge.
Bosaisu, a Buddhist saint (see p.
46).
Bufjaku,
dance :
an ancient pantomimic
hugdku-dai, a stage for
the performance of this dance.
Bvyu, a species of sand-fly, whose
sting is very painful.
Cha, tea : cha-dai, tea-money (see
p. 6) ; cha-no-yu, " tea ceremo-
nies " (see " Things Japanese ") ;
cha-ya, a tea-house (see p. 7).
Cho, a measme of distance (see
p. 5) ; a street.
Bai, big, great.
Baibutsu, a colossal image of a
Buddha.
Baimon, the great outer gate of the
grounds of a Buddhist temple.
Baishi, a great Buddhist abbot or
saint.
Barani, a mystic Buddhist formula
or incantation.
Bo, a hall, a temple.
Bori (for tori in compounds), a
street.
Ema, an ex-voto picture : ema-do,
a temple building hung with
such pictures.
Eta, a pariah.
Fiisuma, sliding-screens covered
with paper.
Gawa (for kawa is compounds), a
river, a stream.
6eji7i, the outer chamber or nave of
a Buddhist temple.
Gin-zan, a silver mine.
Go, an honori-
fic prefix.
Go, a measure
of capacity
(see p. 6), and
o f distance
(see Route 1>,
Sect. 1.).
Gohei, the em-
blems in a
Shintd tem-
ple of the an-
cient offer-
ings of cloth;
they are now
usually strips
of M' h i t e
paper, very (gohei)
rarely of metal.
Go-honsha, a Shinto shrine on the
summit of a mountain.
Gorna, a Buddhist rite in
which a fire of cedar-
wood is burnt, and
prayers are offered :
goma-do, a shrine for
the performance of this . y -^
rite.
Gongen, an avatar (see p.
48).
Gorei-ya, a mausoleum
(of a Shogun).
Gosho-guruma, a praying-
wheel (see Rte. 4, under
Asakusa Kwannon).
Gtincho, the chief official
of a rural district.
i
i./
94
Introduction :— Glossary.
Gydcji-yalci, n kind of ancient
earthenware (see p. 72).
Haiden, an oratory (see p. 39).
Hakkei, eight views (see Ete. 40,
Sect. 1).
Hakuhidsu-kiro)!, a museum.
Hashi, a bridge.
Ilatamoio, a vassal of the Shogun
having a fief assessed at less than
10,000 kokv.
Hatoha, a landing-place.
Heiden, a building in which (johd
are set up.
Higashi, east.
Hinoki, a conifer, — the Chama'cy-
parifi olAusa.
JIojo, the apartments of the high-
priest of a Buddhist temple.
Hoke-kyo, the name of a Buddhist
scripture (Sanslait, Saddharma
Pu n < laril -a Suira ) .
Jloko, a kind of mythological car
drawn through the streets in
religious processions.
Ilomho, the chief building of a
monastery, and residence of the
abbot.
Honden, see Ilonsha.
Hondo, the imncipal building of
a Buddhist monaster)'.
Ilonrpcanji, a temple of the Bud-
dhist Monto sect.
Jlonsha. the main shrine of a Shin-
to temple.
Ildshu-no-iaiiia, a Budtlhist emblem
of u n c e r t a i n
significance,
perhaps best
identifie<l with
the iiyo-'i-riii
mentioned o n
p. 52.
Horizon, the j^rin-
cipal deity or
image of a Bud-
dhist temple.
Hdzo. the trea-
sure-house of a
temple.
Ichd, the name of a tree whose
leaves turn gold in autumn. — the
^alisburia adiaratifolia, also call-
ed Gincjko hilohn.
Ihai, a funeral tablet.
lia-fjaki, see p. 30.
HOSHU-trO-TAMAJ
Iica-ijoya, a cave used for sleeping
in ; hra-ya, a cavern.
Ji (in temple names), see p. 43.
Jigoku, lit. hell, hence a solfatara.
Jikidn, see p. 43.
Jinja, a Shinto temple.
Knerv-mata (lit. frog's thighs),
pieces of timber shaped like the
section of an inverted cup, sup-
porting a horizontal beam.
Kago, a land of small palanquin
(see p. 10).
Kagura, a Shinto religious dance
(comp. p. 45).
Kaidd, a highway.
Kakemono, a hanging scroll — gen-
erally jDainted.
Kami, above, upper.
Kami, a Shinto god or goddess.
Kara, China : Kara-7n<)n, a gate in
the Chinese style ; Kara-shishi,
stone lions used to adorn temjile
gi'ounds.
Kaica, a river, a stream.
Kairara, a stony river-bed.
Keyaki, a ti'ee whose
Aery hard wood is
much prized, — the
Zelkowa keaki.
Kiku-no-mon, the
Imiierial crest
of the chrys-
anthemum. (KIKU-NO-MON)
Kiri-no-mon, the Imperial crest of
the leaf and flower
of the PaMllownia
hnperialis.
Kita, north.
Ko, a child ; (in com-
pounds) small.
Koencld, a public
garden. (kiki-no-mos)
Koku, the standard measure of
capacity (see p. (i). Incomes
were formerly estimated in kokti
of rice.
Koma-inu (see uma-inii).
Kv, an urban district : kvcJio, the
chief official of a district.
Kuda-ta/ma, a small hollow tube
formerly used as .- — ^,
an ornament (see { fo)
Rte. 4, under Ueno '^ -^
M'usevm).
Glossary.
95
Kuro-shio, (lit. black biine), tlie
Japanese Gulf Stream.
luiruma, a jinriMslia.
Kioaisha, a company, a society.
Kioan, an important building, —
usexl chiefly in names of hotels,
public halls, etc.
Kwankoha, an imlristrial bazaar.
Kyodo, a library of Buddhist sutras.
Kyudo, an old road.
Machi, a street, a town.
^faga-tama, an an- ^
cient form of or- V V — --^ o\
nament (see Kte. \^ J
4. under IJciio
Museum).
MaJdmono, a scroll (see p. 13).
yiandara, a Buddhist picture-
generally on a large scale and
depiciting one half of the mytho-
logical universe.
Manji (Sanskrit, soasilkn), a mystic
diagram, ex- p— ,(—
p 1 a i n e d by r
some as the { L
symbol of luck, |
by others as the i — ~^
symbol of Bud- |
dhist esoterics.
Count d'Alviella, in his " Mujra-
ilon des Symboles," traces it back
to the Greek (/ammadton in Troas
anterior to the 13th century B.C.,
showing how it passed westward
to Iceland, eastward to Thibet
and Japan, producing the key-
pattern and other well-lcnown
tlecorative types.
Masu, a salmon-trout (Salmojapo-
nicus). See p. 14.
Matsuri, a religious festival.
Meibutsu, the specialty for which a
place is noted.
Mikoshi, a sacred palanquin.
Mikoto, a title applied to Shinto
Minami, south. [deities.
Minato, a harbour.
Mine, a mountain peak.
3/ it s u-ao I, three
leaves of the kamo-
aoi or asarum, —
the crest of the
great Tokugawa
family.
Mit su-domw; a tigure like that here
represented. Its
origin and sym-
bolic import are
alike matters of
debate. Besides
the treble form
here given,
there also e3dst
a double form (fniaisu-domoe) and
a single one {tomoe).
Miya, a Shinto temple, an Imperial
prince or princess.
Mokusei, the Olea fragrans, — a tree
having small, deliciously scented
flowers of a reddish yeUov/ colour.
Mura, a village.
Murodo, a hut for pilgrims on a
mountain side.
Myojin, a Shintd deity.
Nada, a stretch of sea.
Naijin, the inner part or chancel of
a Buddhist temple.
Naka, middle.
JVamu Atimla Buisu, an invocation
of the god Amida, used chiefly by
the Monto sect.
Nemhutsu, a prayer to Buddha.
Nippon, Jai^an.
JVishi, west.
jVo, a species of lyric drama.
Norirnono, a palanquin.
Nu'ina, a marsh, a tarn.
Nyorai, a Buddha (see p. 53).
0, an honoritix jorefix.
(in compounds), big.
Oku, the innermost recess, behind :
oku-no-in, see p. 43.
Onsen, a hot sj^ring.
Rtlkan, a class of Buddhist saints
(see p. 53).
Ramma, ventilating
the ceiling of a
beautifully carved.
Ri, a Japanese
league
5).'"
Rimb d
wheel
la w ,
chiefly
panels near
room — often
ornament in
temples dedi-
cated to Fudo.
(RIMBO)
96
Introduction : — Glossary.
Rinzo, a revolving library (see p.
47).
Ryobu Shinto, see p. 40.
Saka, an ascent, a hill.
Sakaki, the Cleyera japonica, — the
sacred tree of the Shintoists.
Saki, a promontory.
Sammon, a large two-storied gate
leading to a Buddhist tem-
ple.
San (in compounds), a mountain,
sometimes a temple.
Sarugaku, a classical semi-religious
dance.
Sen, a Japanese cent, worth half of
an American cent, one farthing.
Shiehi-do-garan, a complete set of
Buddhist temple buildings.
Shima, an island.
Shimo, lower.
Shindo, a new road.
Shinto, the aboriginal rehgion of
the Japanese (see p. 37).
Shippo-no-
mon — (ht.
"enamel
crest "), the
name of a
Japanese
crest.
Sotetsu, the
Oycas revo-
luta, — a tree
resembling
the sago-
palm.
Sotoba, see pp. 43-4.
Snji-bei, or Suji-
kabe, a species of
striped wall or-
namentation
(see p. 83).
Tai, a kind of sea-
bream, — the
Serranus mar-
ginalis.
Take, a peak.
Tamagaki (see p.
39).
(TENQU)
quaint coarse
Tengu, a long-
nosed goblin,
often repre-
sented with
wings, and
supposed to
inhabit the
mountains.
Tennin, a Bud-
dhist angel.
Tenno, an em-
peror.
Toba-e, a land of
picture (see p. 85).
Toge, a pass over mountains.
Tokko (Sanskrit vajra), a Buddhist
symbol, for _,
whose ex- ^S=:^~
planation
see p. 52. It
has three
forms in Japan, of which the
simplest resembles one spoke of
the "wheel of the law" (see
Eimbo). The other forms of it
are the three-pronged, or sanko
here figured, and the five-prong-
ed, or goko.
Tori, a street.
Torii, a Shintd gateway (see p. 39).
The left-hand illus-
tration gives the
Pure Shinto, that
on the right hand the Ryobu
Shinto form of this structure.
Ta (in compoimds), a house.
Yama, a mountain, a hill, also a
sort of religious car borne in
certain processions.
Zan (for san in compounds), a
mountain, a hill.
Zashiki, a room, an apartment.
A..---' -I-
SECTION 1.
EASTERN JAPA
(Routes I — 22.
Handbook for Travellers
.JAPAN.
O U T E S .
ROUTE 1.
Yokohama.
Yokoliaina, the place where
most visitors lirst touch Japanese
soil, is the largest of the Treaty
Ports and practically the port of
Tokyo. The landing-place (Hatoha)
and the Custom-house {Zei-kwan)
are within 5 min. drive of the
hotels, and within 20 min. of the
Railway Station.
Hotels.— GxSiTid. Hotel, No. 20;
Oriental Hotel, No. 11 ; Club Hotel,
No. 5-B ; all on the Bund, facing
the sea ; Wright's Hotel, No. 40 ;
Hotel de Geneve, No. 26. The
Maples Hotel, 85, Bluff.
Restaurants. — (European food)
Railway Station (upstairs) ; Nissei-
ro, in Ota-machi ; {Japanese food)
Sanomo, in Ota-machi San-chome.
Japanese Inns. — Futui, in Ben-
ten-dori ; Takano-ya, in Honcho-
dori.
Banks. — Hongkong and Shang-
hai Bank, No. 2 ; Chartered Bank
of India, Australia, and China, No.
58 ; National Bank of China, No.
75. Also Agencies of the Chartered
Mercantile Bank, and oi the Bank
of China and Japan, No. 1.
Consulates. — British, No. 172 ;
American, No. 234 ; German, No.
81 ; French, No. 84.
Post and Telegraph Office. — This,
together with the Telephone Ex-
change, the Custom-house, and the
Prefecture (Eencho), stands near the
British and American Consulates,
on the space between the Foreign
Settlement and the Japanese town.
Steam Communication. — Japan
Mail Steamship Company {Nippoii
Y'ilsen Kwaisha), close to the Rail-
way Station ; Peninsular and Orien-
tal, No. 15 ; Messageries Maritimes,
No. 9 ; Norddeutscher Lloyd, No.
29 ; Pacific Mail, Occidental and
Oriental, and Toyo Kisen Kwai-
sha, No. 4-A ; Canadian Pacific, No.
14 ; Northern Pacific, Dodwell,
Carlill and Co., No. 50-B.
Landing and Shipping Agents. —
A. Weston, 8 Customs Hatoba ;
MacArthur & Co., No. 10.
Churches. — Christ Church (An-
glican), No. 235, Bluff; Union
Church (Protestant), No. 167;
Roman Catholic, No. SO.
Clubs. — Yokohama United Club,
No. 4-B ; Club Germunia, No. 235 ;
Masonic Temple.
100
Route 1. — Yokohama.
Photographs of Japanese Scenery
and Costumes. — Farsari, near Yato-
bashi ; Tamamura, 2, Benten-dori ;
Kimbei, in Honclio-dori.
Books and Maps relating to
Japan. — Kelly and Walsh, No. GO ;
Maruya, in Benten-ddri.
Foreign Stores for Japanese
Works of Art. — Arthur & Bond's
Fine Ai-t' Gallery, No. 38 ; Kuhn &
Komor, No. 37 ; Kuhn, No. 57.
Japanese Curio Dealers. — Numa-
shima, in Kitanaka-dori Itchome,
for car'\"ings and other fine works
of art ; Samurai Shokr«'ai, in Hon-
cho Itchome ; Musashi-ya, Bisansha,
and Konoike, in Honcho-dori, for
jewellery, ivories, silver-ware, etc. ;
Hattori, in Benten-ddri Itchome,
for Satsuma porcelain. !llatsuishi-
ya, in Honcho-dori, porcelain in
Eiu'opean shapes ; and numerous
others, especially in Benten-dori.
Porcelain factory outside the
native town at Ota-mma, known as
Maktizu Kozan (shown to visitors).
Silk Stores. — Ewata, No. 35, Set-
tlement ; Tanabe, Shobei, and
Shieno, all in Honcho-dori ; also,
for cheaper articles, Yamaguchi, in
Otamachi ; Goto, in Benten-dori
Ni-ch5me.
Embroideries, Silk and Cotton
Crapes, Japanese Cottons, etc. — No-
zawa-ya, 30, Benten-dori ; Tsuru-
ya, in Ishikawa-machi.
Cloisonne. — Goto, in Takashima-
cho (visitors are shown over the
factory) ; Kawano, in Honcho Ni-
chome.
Japanese Stationery. — Tanikawa-
ya, in ilinami Naka-doii Itchome.
Toys, etc. — Nagai, in Honcho-
doii.
Bamboo ami Bead Blinds, CuMtt-
ets, etc. — Moiiyasu, in Benten-dori.
Florists. — Boehmer & Co., 5 and
28, Bluff ; Y''okohama Nm'sery Co.,
21-35, Nakamiua BlufE.
Japanese Theatres, etc. — Minato-
za, in Sumiyoshi-cho ; Hagoromo-
za, in Hagoromo-cho. A sort of
fair is held at night in Basha-michi-
dori and Isezald-cho.
Fublic (jardoi and Cricket
Ground. — At th«; back of the Settle-
ment, behind the Ameiican Con-
stdate ; Blutf Gardens, No. 230.
yeicspapers. — " Japan Daily Ail-
vertiser," " Japan Gazette," " Jajjan
Herald," " Japan Mail." daily ;
'• Japan Times," daily (pubhshed
in Tokyo) ; " Box of Cuiios,"
" Eastern World," weekly.
History. — Yokohama owes its com-
mercial importance to the foreigners who
have settled there. It was an insignificant
fishing village when Commodore Perry
anchored off it in 1854, and gn\ e American
names to several points in the neighbour-
hood. When it was agreed to open a
Treaty Port in this part of Japan, the
choice naturally fell, not on Yokohama,
but on the thriving town of Kanagawa,
on the opposite side of the small bay, now
pai-tially filled in. But the Japanese
Government, finding Kanaga\\a incon-
venient because of its situation on the
Tokaido. at a time when collisions be-
tween foreigners and the armed retainers
of the Daimyos passing to and from the
capital were to be apprehended, gave
facilities for leasing ground at Yokohama
instead. Thither accordingly the mer-
chants, anxious to openui) trade, repaired
in 1858. The consuls ijrotested agaiu.-t
the change ; but the only lasting result of
their protest is the retention of the name
Kanagawa in certain official documents
The superiority of the Yokohama an-
chorage doubtless reconciled the foreign
community to the inferior position of the
place on a mud flat facing north. The
greater ijortion of the Settlement, as it
now exists, dates from after the fire of
1866 : and the Bluff, on which mo.st of
the well-to-do residents have their dwell-
ings was first leased for building purposes
in 1867. A large and raiudly growing
native town has sprung up outside the
Foreign Settlement. Waterworks opL-ned
in 1887 supply Yokohama from the
Sagami-gawa, 23 miles distant. New
harbour-woiks were completed in 1896. —
On the 31st December, 1899, the foreign
population of Yokohama, exclusive of
Chinese amounted to 2,039. of whom 922
British and 429 American.
It should be exi^iained that al-
though the streets have names,
these are comparatively little used,
as the numbeiing of the whole
Settlement is continuous, iiTespec-
tive of street names. A similar
remark applies to the Blufi:.
Though Yokohama boasts but
few sights properly so called, the
Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.
101
curio-liunter will here find him-
self in his element ; and to one
newly landed the native town, with
its street-staUs and its theatrical
and other shows, will afford an
interesting spectacle. A visit
should be paid to Noge-yama, close
behind the Railway Station, for
the sake of the general view of the
town and harbour. Here stand
some small, but popular and
representative, shrines dedicated
to the Shintd god of AkLha, to
Doryo, a Buddhist saint, to Fudo,
the great Buddhist god whose chief
shrine is at Narita (see Eoute 5),
and to the Sun-Goddess of Ise
(see Eoute 37). This last, which
crowns the hUl, is generally known
as Daijingu. Festivals are held at
Noge-yama on the 1st, 15th, and
•28th of every month. The temjDle
of Zotoku-iii, dedicated to Yalaishi
Nyorai and situated in Moto-machi
close to the Grand Hotel, celebrates
its festivals on the 8th and 12th of
the month.
Yokohama possesses a Race-
course and a Public Hall, where
EngUsh theatrical and other enter-
tainments are given.
Race meetings, often attended
by His Majesty the Mikado, are
held in spring and autiimn. The
race-course overlooks Mississijjpi
Bay, which affords a charming
objective point for a drive. Indeed,
the whole neighbourhood abounds
in fine landscapes. Fuji shows out
well from the race-course, from
the harbour, and from many other
points.
ROUTE 2.
EXCUESIONS FROM YoKOHAM.\.
]. KAMAEXJEA AND THE DAIBUTSXJ.
2. ENOSHIMA. 3. DZUSHI AND HA-
YAMA. 4. YOKOSUKA, UBAGA, AND
MISAKI. 5. StrOITA AND TOMIOKA.
6. KANAZAWA. [MINE.] 7. BUKEN-
JI. 8. THE CAVES OP TOTSUKA.
9. OYAMA. 10. OISO.
1. — Kamakm'a is reached from
Yokohama in 50 min. by the Tokai-
do Railway, changing carriages at
Ofuna Junction. This branch line
continues on to Dzushi and Y'oko-
suka, being altogether 21i miles in
length.
Kamakura, once the popidous
capital of Eastern Japan, has now
shrunk into a quiet sea-side village
which is a favorite resort of the
Y'^okohama residents. The Kaihin-in
Hotel (foreign style), situated under
a pine-gi'ove near that portion of
the shore known as Yui-ga-hama, is
I" hr. by jinrikisha from the station.
The Japanese inn, Mitsuhashi, may
also be recommended. Both jjro-
vide hot and cold salt-water baths.
Kamakura was the seat of goTernment
in Eastern Japan from the end of the
12th to the middle of the 15th century.
Yoritomo, who established the Shogunate
in 1192, chose this i^lace as his capital,
and here was laid the foundation of the
feudal system of government which
prevailed up to the year 1868. The city
of Kamakura, in the time of Yoritomo's
immediate successors, extended all over
the plain and into the recesses of the
different ijahii, or dells, which branch off
from it among the hilla. Its population
is believed to have exceeded one million
in the days of its glory. Kamakm-a was
the scene of innumerable contests be-
tween rival military factions, and of
many bloody deeds. Here, on the sea-
shore, were beheaded the Mongol ambas-
sadors of Kublai Khan {Jap. Kop-pitsu-
retsu), who had imperiously sent to
demand the submission of Japan to his
sway. The city was repeatedly sacked
and laid in ashes, and seems never to
have fully recovered from the disasters
of the year 14.55. The neighbouring city
of Odawara, which next rose into im-
portance as the seat of the powerful H636
family, attracted to itself large numbers
102
Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.
of the inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin
of which town was completetl by the
founding of Yedo in A.D. I(j03.
The chief sights of Kamakura
are the Temple of Hachiman, the
Daibutsu, or colossal bronze Bud-
dha, and the great image of the
goddess Kwannon. They all lie
within a mile of the hotel.
The Temple of Hachiman, the
God of War, dating from the end
of the l'2th century, stands in a
commanding position on a hill
called Tsuru-ga-oka, and is ap-
proached by a stately aveni^e of
pine-trees leading up the whole
way from the sea-shore. Though
both avenue and temple have
sufEered from the ravages of time,
enough still remains to remind one
of the ancient glories of the place.
Three stone torii lead up to the
temple, which stands at the hesid
of a broad flight of stone steps.
Notice the magnificent icho tree,
nearly 20 ft. in circumference, said
to be over a thousand years old.
In A.D. 1218, the young Shogun Sane-
tomo, having received an additional title
from the Mikado, was about to go in
solemn procession to return thanks at the
temple of Hachiman. He seems to have
had some foreboding of evil ; for, before
leaving the palace, he composed a stanza
which may be thus rendered :
What time its lord, hence issuing.
All tenantless this dwelling leaves.
Be thou still mindful of the spring.
Dear plum-tree standing by the eaves!
The same morning, while he was being
dressed, ho pulled out a hair and gave it
to his attendant, saying, "Keep this in
memory of me." He had been advised
to don armour under his robes, but failed
to adopt the precaution. The ceremonial
was protracted till a late hour. As Sane-
tomo descended the steps iu the dark, a
man sprang upon him from behind this
tree, cut him down, and carried off his
head. Though the assassin, who isroved
to be the high-priest of the temple and
Sanetomo's own nephew, was soon dis-
covered and despatched, the head was
never found. So the hair which Sane-
tomo had given to his faithful retainer
was buried iu its stead.
Before ascending the flight of
steps, the minor shrines to the r.
deserve passing notice. The nearer
one, painted red and called Waka-
miya, is dedicatedto the Emperor
Nintoku, son of Ojin, the God of
War. The further one, renovated in
1890, is called Shirahala Jinja and
dedicated to Yoritomo. The style
and structure are somewhat un-
\asual, black and gold being the only
coloTU's employed, and iron being
the material of the four main
pUlars. The interior holds a small
wooden image of Yoritomo.
A side path leads up hence to the
main temple, which is enclosed in
a square colonnade painted red.
The temple, which was re-erected
in 1828 after having been destroy-
ed by fire seA'en years previously,
is in the Ryobu Shinto style, with
red pillars, beams, and rafters, and
is decorated with small painted
carvings chiefly of birds and
animals. In the colonnade are
several religious palanqiiins (mi-
koshi) used on the occasion of the
semi-annual festivals (15th April
and 15th September), a wooden
image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei, and
a few relics of Yoritomo, one of
them his skull ichen a youth ! Most
of the relics once preserved in the
temple have been removed to the
residence of the Chief Priest
(Uakozaki Oyatftu-kwan), and are
only exhibited at festival time.
Immediately behind the temple
of Hachiman is a small hill called
Shirahata-yama, whence Yoritomo
is said to have often .admired the
prospect.
The Daibutsu, or Great Buddha,
stands alone among Japanese
works of art,
" a stcitue solid-set.
And moulded in colossal calm."
No other gives such an impression
of majesty, or so truly symbolises
the central idea of Buddhism, — the
spiritual peace which comes of
perfected knowledge and the sub-
jugation of all passion. But to be
fiilly appreciated, the Daibutsu
must be visited many times.
Kamakura.
103
There had been a temiile iu this place
since the 8th century, but the image is of
much later date. Its precise history is
involved in obscurity. Tradition, how-
ever, says that Yoritonio, when taking
part in the dedication of the Daibutsu at
Nara, conceived the desire of having a
similar object of worship at his own capi-
tal, but died before he could put the plan
into execution. One of the ladies of his
Court undertook to collect funds for the
purpose, and in the year 1252 the Kama-
Itura Daibutsu was cast by OnoGoroemon.
History tells of two such image.i. The
ti)-st, a wooden one, was designed by a
priest, who collected money far and wide
amongst all classes, and in 1238 the head
of the image, 80 ft. in circumference, was
in its place, while the leniple in which it
stood was completed in 12'11 and dedicated
in 1243. This image is said to have
represented Amida, and to have been
destroyed by a tyishoon. The second is
spoken of as a gilt bronze image of Shaka,
and the casting is believed to have been
begun in 1252. The present one repre-
sents Amida, and notwithstanding the
difference of name, is probably the bronze
imago referred to above as dating from
1252. It was enclosed in a largo building
50 yds. square, whose roof was supported
on sixty-three massive wooden jjillars.
Many of the rtone bases on which they
rested are still in situ. The temple build-
ings were twice destroyed by tidal waves,
in 1369 and 1494, after which they were
not rebuilt, and the image has ever since
remained exposed to the elements.
The Daibutsu is best seen from
about lialf-waj^ up tbe approacli.
Its dimensions are approximately
as follows : —
Height 49 7
Circumference 97 2
Length of face 8 5
"Width from ear to ear 17 9
Round white boss on fore-
head 1 3
Length of eye 3 11
,, of eyebrow 4 2
„ of ear (I G
„ of nose 3 9
Width of mouth 3 2
Height of bump of wisdom. 9
Diameterof bump of wisdom 2 4
Curls (of which there are
830): Height 9
„ Diameter 1
Length from knee to knee. 3.5 8
Circumference of thumb ... 3
The eyes are of pure gold, and
the silver boss weighs 30 lbs.
avoirdupois. The image is formed
of sheets of bronze cast separately,
brazed together, and finished off on
the oxrtside with the chisel. The
hollow interior of the image con-
tains a small shrine, and a ladder
leads up into the head.
The Temple of Kwannon, known
as Uase no Eicannon, stands not far
from the Daibutsu on an eminence
commanding a beautiftil view of the
sea-shore towards MisaM, and over
the plain of Kamakura. The great
image of the (roddess of Mercy, for
which this temple is celebrated,
stands behind folding-doors which
a small fee to the attendant priest
will suffice to open ; but the figure
can only be indistinctly seen by the
dim light of a few candles. It is of
brown lacquer gilded over, and its
height is 30 ft. 5i in. The ad-
mirable bronze seated figure of
Dainichi Nyorai on the 1. was jire-
sented bv the Shogun Ashikaga
Yoshimasa (b. 143G, d. 1490).
Close to this temple is a bold cliff
called Inamura-ga-.mki.
In 1333, when the city of Kamakura
was attacketl by the partisans of the
Emperor Go-Daigo, part of the force led
by Nitta Voshisada advanced along the
strand from the W. of this hill, but were
unable to pass under the cliff owing to
chevaux-de-frise being placed against it
down to the water's edge, while their
passage in boats was i^'evented by a long
row of war-junks lying some 500 or 600
yards off the shore. Yoshisada therefore
climbed the cliff', and after praying to the
Sea-God, tlung his sword into the water,
whereupon the title miraculously re-
treated, leaving a space a mile and a
half wide at the foot of the cliff, along
which he marched his army into Kama-
kura.
Lovers t>f early sculpture and
of Japanese historical and anti-
quarian lore, will find scattered over
Kamakura many minor temples and
other objects to arrest their atten-
tion. Amongst these, the follow-
ing may be enumerated : —
Ennujl, small and dilapidated, but
containing the celebrated image of
104
Route 2. — Excursions from . Yokohama.
Emma-0, Eegent of Hell (see p.
47), called Arai-no-Emma, and
carved by Uiikei.
Legend says that Unkei, having died,
appeared in due course before this re-
doubtable deity, who thus accosted him :
"Thou hast carved many images of me,
but never a true one. Now that thou hast
seen my face, return to earth and show me
as I am." So Unkei, coming to life again,
carved this image, v.hich is, therefore,
said to be Unkei I'omiji-gaeri no gain, that
is, " the v.-ork of Unkei redivivus."
The image is only shown on
application to the custodian. Other
large images line the walls, one of
Shoziika-no-Baba (see p. 49), also by
Unkei, being specially powerful.
Kenchdji is situated in beautiful
but now mostly deserted grounds,
amidst magnificent trees, of which
the rugged hyakusldn (Juniperus
chinensis) is the most x:)rominent
species, and a favourite material
with the carvers of Buddhist
images. The gate is a huge struc-
ture. The main temple contains a
large image of Jizo, and four hun-
dred small gilt ones of the same
divinity carved by Eshin.
A very popular little shrine was
erected in 1890 on Shojoken, the
hill behind Kenchoji, and attracts
such crowds of pilgrims that a
special train is run on the 17th day
of the month for their benefit. The
shrine is dedicated to a goblin
called Jlanzdbo, to whom enormous
quantities of small paper flags are
offered up. These line both sides
of the pathway that leads up the
hill for a distance of 5 cho. A tea-
house near the shrine commands a
splendid "view of Fuji and the sea.
The OhxL-no-in at the very toji
overlooks a maze of small hills and
valleys in the direction of Yoko-
hama.
The ancient Temple of Kokuonji
contains images of the Ju-ni-ten,
nearly life-size, and very large ones
of Yakushi Nyorai, Nikko Bosatsu,
and Gwakko Bosatsu, all attributed
to the chisel of Unkei.
The Tomb of Yoritomo is a modest
little monument covered with
creeiDers.
The Kamakura-no- Miya was
erected in 1869 in honour of a son
of the Emperor Go-Daigo, called
Oto-no-Miya, who, having failed in
his attempt to overthrow the feudal
government, was capttu-ed, confined
in a cave, and finally assassinated
in A.D. 1335. The temple, which is
in j)ure Shinto style, stands direct-
ly in front of the cave.
Enkakuji possesses the largest
bell in Kamakura. This bell, dat-
ing from A.D. 1201, is 6 in. thick,
4 ft. 7 in. in diameter, and about
8 ft. high.
Komyoji, Eishdji, and Jil-roku-ido,
or the Sixteen Pools, in which,
according to an apocryphal tradi-
tion, K5b6 Daishi performed his
ablutions, are also noted.
2. — Enoshima.
This most pictiiresque spot,
though called an island, is more
properly a peninsula ; for only at
high tide is it surrounded by the
sea. The prettiest way there leads
by the road called Shichi-ri-ga-
hama* skirting the beach from
Kamakura, and through the 'vill.
of Katase. The distance from
Kamakirra is 4 miles.
Half-way is the YuLl-ai-gawa, which,
though an insignificant streamlet, is
worthy of mention on account of the
following incident : —
When Nichiren was miraculously deliv-
ered from the hands of the executioner
at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe,
a messenger was at once despatched to
Kamakura to ask for further orders,
while at the same moment a reprieve
was sent from the palace of the Kegent
Tokiyori. The two messengers happen-
ed to meet at this stream, whence the
name of Yuki-ai-gawa, which means "the
Kiver of Meeting." A stone now marks
the spot.
JinriMshas can be taken as far as
Koshigoe,
The hero Yoshitsune alighted at the
small monastery of Mam'pvkuji in this
* Literally, the "seven /(' shore," the
ri in early times in Eastern Japan having
consisted of only C dto instead of 30.
Enoshima. Dzushi.
105
village, when his brother Yoritomo, jeal-
ous of his exiiloits and popularity, denied
him entrance into the city of Kamaknra.
The priests still show the draft of the
letter sent by Yoshitsune, denying the
intrigues imputed to him and protesting
in vain his loyalty. The handwriting is
said to be that of his faithful henchman,
Benkei.
whence it is a short walk across the
neck of sand joining Enoshima to
the mainland.
A more direct way of approach-
ing Enoshima is from Fujisawa
station, whence it is 1 rl. by jiniiki-
sha, or jmrtly by boat down the
river, which is joined 6 rho from
the station. The road branches ofp
r. to Enoshima close to the \'ill.
of Katase, at the entrance of
which stands the temple of Byu-
koji, founded after Nichiren's
death by his disciples, and built
on the spot where his execution
was to have taken place. It posses-
ses a number of fine wood-carvings.
Enoshima, being a popular holi-
day resort, is full of excellent inns.
The best are the Iwamoto-in and
Ebisu-3'a in the vill., and the Kin-
Idro higher up. There is fair sea-
bathing. The shops of Enoshima
are full of shells, corals, and marine
curiosities generally, many of which
are brought from other parts of the
coast for sale. The beautiful glass
rope sponge (Hyalonema sieboldi),
called hosiujai by the Japanese, is
said to be gathered from a reef deep
below the surface of _the sea not far
from the island of Oshima, whose
smoking top is visible to the S. on
a clear day.
From the earliest ages the island
was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist
Goddess of Luck.
Before the existence of Enoshima, so
says the ancient legend, the site of the
Ijresent cave was the abode of a dragon,
which used to devour the children of the
village of Koshigoe. In the 6th cen-
tury, on the occasion of a violent earth-
quake, the goddess Benten appeared
in the clouds over the spot inhabited by
that monster ; and the island of Enoshima
suddenly rising from the waters, she
descended to it, married the dragon, and
put an end to his ravages. The natives
believe that there exists a subterranean
passage connecting the cave with Fuji.
This cult has now been exchanged
for that of three Shinto goddesses,
to whom several of the temples
have been re-dedicated. But the
spot considered most sacred of all
is the large Cave on the far side
of the island. It is 124 yds. in
depth, the height at the entrance
being at least 30 ft., but diminish-
ing gradually towards the interior.
The rocks near the cave are
frequented by divers, who for a
few cents bring up shell-fish from
the deep, which, however, they may
be suspected of having previously
concealed about their persons.
Ten rho from Enoshima and 28
cho from Fujisawa station, lies the
sea-bathing resort of Kngenuma
(Inn, Kosho-kwan).
3. — DznsHi AND Hatama.
Dzushi, on the railway, 2 J miles
to the S. E. of Kamakura, is the
station for Ilormchi, or Hayama,
as it is now more commonly caUed,
IJ m. distant, which has lately
risen into favour as a sea-side
resort, some of the wealthier re-
sidents of Tokyo and Yokohama
having buUt villas there. A good
road connects Dzushi and Hayama,
which latter place commands a
lovely view, — Fuji, which seems to
rise straight from the waters of
Odawara Bay, forming the central
feature of the scene. The Ililcage-
no-Chnya inn at Horiuchi is apt to
be noisy. Nearer the station, a-
cross a bridge, may be found a
quieter house, the Yosldn-tei, with
better bathing. Half a mile beyond
the Hikage-no-Chaya, stretches the
pretty wooded promontory of
Morula Myojin ; and the walk, for
1^ m. further along the coast to
a point called (Jhhja-saki, where
there is a good inn and capital
bathing, may be recommended.
The Crown Prince has a Avinter
residence close l)y.
106
Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.
i. YOKOSUKA, UbAGA, AND
MiSAKI.
_ Yokosuta is the terminus of the
Ofuna branch line, and is reached
from Y'okohama in 1^ hr. Steamers
also ply between Tokyo, Yokohama,
and Yokosuka. The little line of
railway passes through characteris-
tically Japanese scenery, — wooded
hills rising up abruptly from val-
leys laid out in rice-fields, \\'ith here
and there a cottage or a tiny shrine
halt-hidden in a rustic bower. The
train darts in and out of short
timnels under some of these hills,
before reaching the sea-shore at
Y^okosuka.
Yokosuka {Inn, Mitomi-ya ;
Forei'jn resit., Kaiyo-ken, near the
wharf), which but a few years ago
was a poor village, has rapidly
risen into importance, on account
of the Government Dockyard esta-
blished there. Visitors are not
admitted, excej)t on presentation
of an introduction from the naval
authorities. The town is prettily
situated on a land-locked bay ; but
the suiTOunding wooded heights
are being cut away vertically to
afford more fiat space for the rajiid-
ly growing streets. Its chief
interest for Englishmen lies in the
fact that here lived and died Will
Adams, the first Enghshman that
ever landed on the shores of Japan.
Will Adauis, a native of Gillin^ham in
Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch
ships which reached the southern coast
of Japan on th(! 19th April, A.D. IGOO.
Brought as a prisoner into the presence
of leyasu, Adams soon won the favour
of that astute ruler, who employed him
both as a shipbuilder and as a kind of
diplomatic agent when other English and
Dutch traders began to arrive. Adams'
constantly reiterated desire to behold his
native land again and the wife aud child-
ren whom he had left behind, was to the
last frustrated by adverse circumstances.
He consoled himself by taking another
wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived
until his death in 1620 at Hemi, a suburb
of Yokosuka, where the railway station
now stands.
His grave and that of his Japa-
nese wife are situated on the top of
a bill, J hr. walk from the railway
station. The Japanese call the
place Anjin-saka, from anjin which
means " pilot," that having been
the appellation by which Adams
was commonly known. The tombs
are of stone in the ordinary Japa-
nese style. Will Adams' monument
is without an inscription, while that
of his wife bears the posthumous
title which every Buddhist receives
from the priests of the parish tem-
ple. Not only is the situation of
the graves most jjicturesque, but
the eminence on which they stand
affords a lovely "siew of land and
sea.
Azuma-yama , a high wooded
eminence ^ hr. fi-om Yokosuka by
boat, has been cut through in order
to afford a short water passage to
the Torpedo Station of Naga-ura.
Another vantage-point just outside
the opposite or E. end of Y^oko-
suka, is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on
which stands a temple of the Nichi-
ren sect, called Ryuhonji, posses-
sing some good carvings. The level
stretches at the foot of the cliffs
have recently been reclaimed fi-om
the sea.
Tlie distance from I'okosuka to
Uraga is 1 ri 32 cho (42 m.)
along an excellent road. A little
more than half-way lies the
hamlet of Otsu, where there is an
inn, good of its kind but apt to
be noisy, with a fine beach for
bathing.
XJrag-a {Inn, Tokuda-ya, in
Higashi-Uraga) is built on both
sides of a very narrow fiord-like
harbour ; and the two diNisions thus
formed are called respectively
Higashi- Uraga and Nishi- Uraga,
i.e.. East and West Uraga. They
are connected by a bridge and a
ferry. Two large dry docks were
opened here in 1899.
In former times all junks entering the
Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for
inspection, and it was here that Com-
modore Perry anchored on the 8th July,
1853, bearing with him the letter of Pre-
sident Fillmore to the Shogun, the result
Uraga. Sugifa. Kanazai'n,
107
of which was to open Japan to foreign in-
tercourse .
Uraga px-oduces mizu-ame, ;i sweet
and wholesome iDreparation from
sake malt, somewhat resembling
honey in taste. It is worth while
devoting \ hr. to the climb up
Atago-yama, a hill at the back of
Nishi-Uraga, commanding a tine
view of the town and harbour.
The hills beyond the sea to the E.
are the Boshii range.
Uraga is in daily steam com-
munication Avith Tokyo, the pas-
sage occupying about 4 hours. The
steamers touch at Kachiyama,
Tateyama, and other ports on the
Boshu side.
It is a walk or jinrikisha ride
of 4 n o cho (10 m.) to Misald, lirst
along the sands, and then over a
cultivated ujiland commanding a
fine view of Fuji, the Hakone and
Oyama ranges, and the opposite
shores of Toky5 Bay.
Misaki (Inn, Aoyagi). At Ko-
ajiro, on a small bay, 1 ri to the
N., stands the Marine Biological
Laboratory {Misaki Rinkai Jikken-
jo), connected with the Science
College of the Imperial University
of Tokyo. The marine fauna of
this district being particularly rich
in rare forms, di-edging has pro-
duced results highly interesting to
the zoologist. A lighthouse stands
on the island of Jogashima, 1 m.
from the mainland, with which it
is connected by ferry.
One may complete the tour of
the tSagami Peninsula, at the ex-
tremity of which Misaki is situated,
by a walk of 7 ri (17 m.) along the
coast to Dzushi.
5. SUGITA AND ToMIOKA.
It is a pleasant walk or jinrikisha
ride of about 2 ri from Yokohama
to Sugita (Inns, Azuma-ya and
others), famous for its plum-
blossoms ; and i ri further on to
Tomioka (Inns, Kimjja-ro, Kaihin-
ro), a favourite resort of the Yoko-
hama residents, on account of the
good sea-bathing in Mississippi
Bay. Tomioka may also be easily
reached by boat from the Gutting at
the back of the Settlement in about
40 min., the distance from the
Settlement to the point where the
boat is taken being approximately
1 ri.
G. — Kanazawa. [Mine.]
•Tinrikishas may be taken the
whole way, two men being requir-
ed. The total distance is 4 ri 30
(■ho (H| m.), the road being flat for
the first 6 m. as far as the hamlet
of Seki, and after that, hilly.
[At the hamlet of Tanakn, 1(\
cho beyond SeM, a road prac-
ticable most of the way for
jinrildshas, turns oif r. to a hiU
called Mine, which commands
a wonderfully extensive view.
The finest prospect is towards
the N., looking down on the
multitude of furrowed ridges
that stretch away to the moun-
tains of Chichibu. To the W.,
the sea is visible near Hiratsuka
and Oiso on the Tokaido ;
beyond it is Fuji, with the
(>5rama and Hakone ranges.
The distance from Tanaka to
Mine is 28 cho, nearly 2 m.]
On reaching the crest of the
ridge, the wondi'ous beauty which
has led the foreign residents to be-
stow on this neighbourhood the
name of the Plains of Heaven,
suddenly reveals itself. x\. scene of
perfect loveliness may be enjoyed
from a wayside tea-house called
Kokendo, which nestles under a
pine-tree known as the Fude-sute-
matsu, because a Japanese artist of
olden times here flung away his
pencil in despair. At the spectator's
feet is a wide, cultivated valley,
bordered by pine-clad hills and
opening out to the shores of an
inlet, whose still waters are partly
hemmed in l)y smaU pemnsulas
and islets, with to the 1. the pro-
montory of Kwannon-saki, and on
the opposite side of Tokyo l^ay the
108
Eoute 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.
iong crest of Nokogiri-yama. The
most conspicuous of the islands
are Natsushima (Webster Island),
■with Sarushima (Perry Island)
beyond it, and Eboshi-jima -which
is much smaller and recognisable
by its triangular shape. But a
mere catalogue of names can avail
nothing towards conyeying an idea
of the peculiar magic of a scene
•which might be the original that
inspired the Japanese landscajse-
painter's art.
Kanazawa ( Inns, Chiyo-moto,
Azuma-ya), on the shores of the
Mutsm-a Inlet, is chiefly noted for
its Hak-kei, — a characteristically
Japanese view from a small height
just outside the village. Close to
the ferry at Xojima (Inn, Nishino-
ya), is a celebrated peony garden,
which attracts many visitors
during the season of flowering.
Some of the plants are said to be
over 300 years old. — Kanazawa
may also be reached by the coast
road -^ia Tomioka on foot in 3 hrs.
The way back to Yokohama can be
jjleasantly varied by taking the
jinrildsha road across the neck of
the little peninsula of llisald to
Dzushi station on the Yokosuka
branch of the Tokaido Eailway, a
distance of 2-J- ri (G m.)
This trii3 may advantageously be
combined with a \isit to Kamakura,
the station beyond Dzushi, or to
Yokosuka, \i& Will Adams' tomb.
The whole neighbourhood ofEers
delightful walks, as paths leading
to the top of every hill command
exquisite views.
7. — BrKEXJi.
Bukenji, a temple of the Nichi-
reu sect, about h hr. walk from
Kanagawa station, is a favourite
resort of picnic parties from Y'oko-
hama. From the top of the hUl
there_is a fine view towards Fuji
and Oyama. On the way there, the
(clearly a^Docryphal) grave of Ura-
shima, the Japanese Rii3 Van
Winkle, is passetl (see p. 85).
S. — The Caves of Totstjka.
(Taya no Ana.)
Though known to foreigners as
the Caves of Totsuka, these
caves, or rather galleries cut in the
soft standstone, are really nearer to
Ofuna, the next station beyond
Totsuka on the Tokaido Railway,
4:0 min. run from Yokohama. They
lie at a distance _of 17 chr) (a little
over 1 m.) from Ofuna station, but
nearly 1^ ri from Totsuka station.
Whichever station one decides to
alight at, the trip on to the caves
can be done by jinriMsha, and hes
through pleasing scenery. The
caves are Avell worth a visit. The
best time to choose is the spring,
as the cherry-trees too will then
be seen to advantage. Candles
are provided at a house near the
entrance, also cloaks to ward off
any wet that may di-ip fi'om the
walls, and a local guide ^^ill point
out the Buddhist cai-vings with
which the walls and ceilings are
adorned.
These naves, with their carvings, are a
monumeDt of modern Buddhist piety.
Existing in embryo since the IMiddle Ages
(tradition asserts them to have been
resorted to for the concealment both of
troops, and of treasure in the 1-ith
century), they have only been excavated
to their present extent during the last
fifty years. In the year 1851, a man
called Sato Shichizaemon, whose family
had for generations been rich peasants in
this locality, was urged in a dream to
devote his life to making these caves into
an imperishable shrine to various Bud-
dhist divinities, and especially to the
goddess Benten. This he accordingly did
until his death in 18y2, at the age of 81,
employing his own money for the enter-
prise and local talent for the carvings.
It is intended to continue the work by
representing the whole life of Buddha.
Among the siibjects pourtrayed
may be distinguished angels, dra-
gons, lions, birds both natural and
mythical, the Twelve Signs of the
Zodiac, the Eighteen Eakan, the
Thirty-Three Kwannon of the dis-
trict of Chichibu, and other Bud-
dhas innumerable. To explore the
caves properly takes about 1 hr.
Oyama. Oiso.
109
9. — Oyama.
This celebrated mountain, 4,150
ft. high, is most easily reached
from Yokohama by alighting at
Hiratsnka station on the Tokaidd
EaUway, a rrni of a little over 1 hr.;
thence by jinrikisha to the vill. of
Oyama on the lower slope, 3J ri,
(9j]- m.) distant. It is a favonrite
goal of ijilgi-ims, who continne to
be attracted to its shrine, althongh
the old Buddhist objects of wor-
ship have here, as in so many other
parts of the coTintry, been replaced
hj comparatively obscure Shinto
deities.
Indeed, according to Sir Ernest Satow,
it is uncertain who these gods are : but
the best authority asserts that the chief
deity is Iwanaga-hime, sister to the
goddess of Mount Fuji. The people of
the neighbouring country-side often call
the mountain by the name of Srlison-s-an .
Yet another name is Afuri-yama.
•Jinrikishas are left at the vill. of
Koyasu (Inn, Kami-ya), a long
street of steps, which at its upper
end changes its name to Oyama
(Inns, Koma-ya, with a curious
garden ; Izn-ya). Such of the
inhabitants as do not keep houses
of entertainment for the pilgrims
who flock here chiefly during the
month of June, busy themselves
with the manufacture of rosaries,
toys, and domestic utensils. The
traveller will notice that the posts
of two shrines in the village are so
much cut away as scarcely any
longer to supjport the roof, — a
result of the visit of many devotees
who believe that the chips act as
charms.
The ascent and descent of the
mountain take from 4i to 5 hrs.,
but are far more fatiguing than
most climbs of the same length,
owing to the multitude of steps.
A little way beyond the inns, a
stream rushes out of a hole in a
rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and
falls into a pool, in which it is con-
sidered highly meritorious to bathe
as long as the cold can be endured.
Ten cho further np, the entrance
to the sacred domain is indicated
by a iorii perched on the top of a
flight of steps. Here the traveller
has to choose between the Otoko-
zaka (man's ascent), and Onna-
saka (woman's ascent), — the former
a continuous series of steep flights
of high steps, the latter longer but
less fatiguing. Both j)aths unite
higher up. The jjrospect from this
latter point includes the plains of
Sagami and Musashi, with the
river Banyu, capes Misaki and
Sunosaki at the entrance of Tokyo
Bay, the sea, and the mountains of
Kazusa. Some flights of steps lead
up to the main temple, whence it
is a climb of 28 rlul to the summit,
which commands a view of Fuji,
the wooded top of Tanzawa, the
mountains of Niklvo, Enoshima, etc.
(Tanzawa, whose name occurs
several times in this volume, is a
sinall range situated close to
Oyama on the Avest. It includes
Sobutsu-yama, Tanzawa projjer,
and Bodai-yama, but offers little
interest.)
10.— Oiso.
Oiso is 1|- hr. from Yokohama by
the Tokaido Railway. The Japa-
nese come here to loiter on the
beautiful beach and bathe in the
sea. There is a lovely ^dew : — to
the r., Fuji, the Hakone range, and
the peninsula of Izu ; ahead, Yries
Island ; to the 1., the promontory
of Misaki with the islet of Eno-
shima. The *Tdryu-kican at Oiso
is an excellent inn in Japanese
style, at which some simple Euro-
pean dishes may be obtained, and
where there is a resident doctor.
There is also a foreign restau-
rant, said to be fair.
Oiso, though appirentlj- so insignift-
cant a pk'ce, boasts considerable anti-
quity. Mention of it occurs in the storj'
of the Soga Brethren's Revenge, in the
l'2th century (see p. 84). Quite lately it
has again assumed a sort of importance.
Here the leaders of the Japanese political
world have their villas, where those in-
formal meetings are held which fore-
shadow the creation or overthrow of
coteries and Cabinets.
110
Route 8. — Yokohama to Tokyo by Rail,
ROUTE ;l
Yokohama to Tokyo by Eail.
8 S
Xame.-i
of 1 Remarks
Stations > j
Urn.
12
14:1
18
YOKOHAMA ..
Kanagawa
Tsiirumi
Kawasaki . .
Omori
Shiiiiigawa ....
TOKYO (Shim-
bashi) ...
1
i
Express runs
through.
Change carri-
ages for Sub-
urban and
K or th ern
'•Railways.
This railway, biiilt by English
engineers and finished in the
iiutiimn of 1872, was the first line
opened to traflic in Japan. The
journey fi-om Yokohama to Tokyo
occupies 50 uiin. The line skirts
the shores of Tokyo Bay, with the
old Tokaidd Mghwm/ recognisable at
intervals on the r. by its avenue of
pines, (xlinipses are caught of the
hills of Kazusa beyond the bay.
Soon after leading Y'^okohamu, the
Toliaido Kail way branches off ].
Observe the fine Aiew of Fuji near
the first station.
Kanagawa, once a noted post-
town on the Tokaidd, and intimate-
ly connected with the early settle-
ment of foreigners in this part of
Japan. (See p. 100).
On the Tokaidd avenue near Xamamugi,
between this station and the next, occur-
red the umrder of Mr. Richardson, who,
with two other I'^nglishmen ;iud a lady,
got entangled in the armed procession of
Shimazu Rabnro, prince of Satsuma, on
the 14th September, 1862, — an outrage
which ultimately led to the bombard-
ment of Kagoshiiua. The whole story
will be found in Black's Young Japan,
Chap, 13.
Kawasaki (Inn, Asadu-ya) is
noted for a temple situated 1| m.
from the station, dedicated to Kob5
Daishi, and commonly known as
JJaishi Sama. An electric tramway
connects the two places.
Local legend attributes the sanctity of
the spot to an image of Kobo Daishi
earvea by that saint himself while in
China, aud consigned by him to the
waves. It floated to this coast, where it
was caught in a fisherman's net, and
being conveyed ashore, performed nume-
rous miracles. The trees in the temple-
grounds, trained in the shape of junka
under sail, attest the devotion paid to
this holy image by the sea-faring folk.
So great is its popularity that
special trains are run on the 21st
of each month to accommodate the
crowds that -visit it. The chief
festival takes place on the 21st
March, when the grounds are filled
with cheap stalls and itinerant
shows. The temple possesses some
excellent carvings and a handsome
gateway erected in 1897. A Plum
Garden [Bai-en), with pleasant tea-
houses attached, adjoins the temple
grounds, and is one of the show-
places of the fragrant blossom.
The river crossed just beyond
Kawasaki is the Tamagaioa or
Hokufjo, the upper course of which
is romantically beautiful, and is
described in Ete. 27, Sect. 3. Ex-
tensive pear orchards stretch on
either side of the line. Between
this station and the next, the
whole Hakone range, Buko-zan,
and the other mountains of Chichi-
bu come in view ahead to the 1.
On nearing
Omori, the wooded bluff seen
1. is the site of the celebrated
temple of Ikeyami. Immediately
above the station lie the groundi?
of a tea-house commanding a fine
prospect, and the range of the Im-
perial Japanese Kifle Club.
Some extremely ancient shell-heaps
discovered here by Professor E. S. Morse,
but since removed, have been the subject
of vehement discussion among the learn-
ed. Mention of them will be found in
Thinffs Japanese, article "Archaeology."
Approaching
Shinagawa, we see the forts
buUt in Tokyo Bay during the
latter days of the Shogunate, to
QA^^ei'SOUJO 9NIAVM9N3 gaOAOX
±u SniDa , „ ,
from the British Lesration.— (Japa- | is a schedide :—
^
THE CITY OF TOKYO
Tinoi £N6R*VrNG OmCE.TOKIO
Route 4. — Tokyo.
Ill
impede hostile access to the great
city, but now dismantled because
(iseless in modern warfare.
The numerous factory chimneys
seen on nearing Tokyo are an in-
novation of the last decade. Many,
it will be noticed, are of thin iron
tubing instead of the usual brick.
This plan is adopted as a safeguard
against earthquakes, which natural
visitation afEects the Tokyo-Yoko-
hama district with special fre-
quency, owing to the fact that (as
demonstrated by Prof. Milne) two
lines of seismic activity here in-
tersect.
Just beyond the gas-works, the
line skirts r. the prettily laid out
garden of the 8hiba Pukyu, one of
the minor Imperial palaces. A little
further on, the noble trees in the
grounds of the summer palace called
Mama FdPzyn are seen also to the r.;
and soon after, the train enters the
Shimbaslii terminus, and the
traveller is in Tokyo.
ROUTE 4.
Tokyo.
Tokyd, formerly Yedo.
Hotels. — Hotel Metropole, in
Tsukiji ; Imperial ( Teiknku) Hotel,
centrally situated.
Japanese Inns. — Taizan-kwan,
and Tori-kwan, near the Imperial
Hotel.
Restaurants . — - (ForeignJ'ood)
Shimbashi Terminus (upstairs) ; Sei-
yo-ken, in Ueno Park ; San-en-tei,
in Shiba Park ; Fujimi-ken, not far
from the British Legation. — {Japa-
nese food) Yaozen, at Han-ya, Asa-
kusa ; Yaomatsu, at Mukdjiraa ;
Hirasei, in Fukagawa ; Tokiwa-ya,
in Hamacho (Kyu Hana-l'ashild).
Tea-houses (for entertainments
in Japanese style). — Koyo-kwan
(Maple Club), in 8hiba Park ; Naka-
mura-ro, at llyogolai ; Umegawa-ro,
in Ueno Park.
Club. — The Tokyo Club, at Saiwai-
bashi, with mixed foreign and
Japanese uiembership.
Foreign Jegaivrns. — Great Britain.
], Koji-machi Gobancho ; United
States, 1, Akasaka Enold-zaka ;
France, 1 . Eda-machi Itchome ;
Germany, 14, Nagata-cho ; Holland
(Denmark and Norway), II Shiba
Sakae-cho.
General Post Office di Central Tele-
graph Office. — At Yedo-bashi. Sub-
offices in various districts of the
city.
Parks. — Shiba, Ueno, Asakusa.
Museums. — The H a k ii b u t s u -
kwan, in Ueno Park ; Commercial
Museum {Sho-hiii Chinretsu-kwan),
near Shimbashi terminus : Museum
of Arms {Yusha-kwan), in the
grounds of the Shokonsha temple
at Kudan.
Public Library. — The Tosho-
kwan, in Ueno Park.
Churches. — Church of England,
in Shiba Sakae-cho ; American
Episcopal, Union Church (Pro-
testant), Roman Cathohc, — aU in
Tsukiji.
Theatres. — Kabuki-za, in Kobild-
ch5 ; Meiji-za, in Hama-cho.
Wrestling. — At Eko-in, in Honjo,
twice yearly for ten days in winter
and spring. Also at other times
and places not fixed.
Bazaars (Kicankoba). — At Shim-
bashi bridge, in Shiba Park, and
in Ueno Park {Shohin Chinrei.su-jo).
Fixed prices.
A Railway, officially styled the
Tokyo and Akabane Junction, but
generally known as the Circular
liailway, aifords an easy means of
reaching certain points on the out-
skirts of the city. The following
is a schedule : —
112
Route 4. — Tokyo.
._
o "S 1 Xames
lil of
Remarks.
S S Stations
i»
SHIMBASHI
31m.
Shinagawa
5
Meguro
7i-
Shibuya
9!
Shinjiku Jet
( Change f oiHa-
? chioji Branch.
Hi
Mejiro
13]
Itabashi
161
AKABAXE Jet.
J ChajiKe for the
* North.
An Urban Hoihcay, ninning part-
ly througli the old castle moat,
with, stations at lida-machi, Ushi-
gome, Yotsnya, and Shinano-
maclu, connects with the Circular
Eailway at Shinjiku.
Conveyances. — Jinrikishas are in
universal use. Tram-cars, not much
liatronised by the gentry or by
Europeans, because usually crowd-
ed with the Japanese lower classes,
run fi-om the Shimbashi terminus
along the principal thoroughfares
to Ueno and Asakusa. Omnibuses
of a sort are numerous.
Livery Stables, — Tokyo Basha
Kabu-shiki Gwaisha, with offices at
the Imperial Hotel, at Monzeki-
mae in Tsukiji, and at Kanda
Nishiki-chd.
Steam Communication. — The com-
pany called Tokyo Wan Kisen
Gwaisha runs steamers daily to
Uraga and Yokosuka, Chiba, Ki-
sarazu, and other ports on the
opposite side of the bay, and occa-
sionally to Kominato and other
ports on the Pacific Coast of the
Kazusa-Boshu peninsula, to Atami,
and other poi-ts in Izu. Its steam-
ers start fi-om Beigan-jima.
The Tsu-un Gwaisha runs daily
steamers on the Tonegawa,— the
Kami-Tone, or Upper Biver hne,
taldng passengers to Gyotoku, Seki-
yado, Koga, and numerous minor
villages, while the Shimo-Tone, or
Lower Biver line, branches off E.
at Shinkawa for Sawara, Tsuno-
miya, and Omigawa, whence S. to
Choshi, and N. to Ofunatsu and
Hokoda on the Kita-iu'a Lagoon.
These steamers start from Eyogoku-
bashi.
The local steamers are but little
used by foreigners and by the
better class of Japanese, as they
are small and make scant preten-
sion to comfort. There is not even
always a distinction of classes,
though it is sometimes possible to
secure a separate room by paying
the price of five tickets. The fares
are extremely low.
The following are some of the
chief shops at which articles likely
to interest the tourist are sold : —
Poreetaiu. —jNIikawa-ya, at Owari-
cho Itchome ; Satsuma ware at
Kono, No. 18, Shiba Tamachi, Shi-
chome ; and at Itami, No. 5, Nihom-
bashi, Hakuya-cho.
Lacquer. — Kuroe-ya, at T5ri It-
chome ; Hayashi, in Muromachi,
Nihom-bashi.
Bronze. — Miyao, at No. 1, Nihom-
bashi. Hon-Shirokane-cho (large
things) ; ]VIikawa-ya, at Soto-Kanda,
Hatago-chd Itchome (chiefly small
things suited to foreign needs).
Silver irare. — Itami, as above.
Cloisonne. — Namikawa, at No. S,
Nihom-bashi Shin-emon-cho.
Ivory. — MaruM, in Himono-cho,
Nihom-bashi ; Toyama, at Ginza
Ni-chome, and at Higashi Naka-
dori ; Miyamoto Sho, at 17 Asakusa,
Saruya-cho ; Kaneda, 13, Ogacho.
Bamboo-vorlc. — Fujimra-a, at
Kojimachi Itchome.
Old Silk and Embroideries. — Iwa-
moto Denshichi, at No. 16, Nihom-
bashi Kawasekoku-cho ; Morita, at
No. S, Nihom-bashi Sanai-cho.
Silk Mercers. — Mitsui, in Siaruga-
cho, with show-rooms upstairs ;
Daimaru, in Hatago-cho ; Shiroki-
ya, in Tori Itchome ; Mizushima
(chiefly modern embroideries and
European articles for presents), in
Honcho Itchdme, — aU in the
Nihom-bashi district.
Sakai Rugs. — ^Fujimoto, at Ginza
Shi-chome.
Shops. Festivals
iia
Paper an/A Faas. — Haibara, No.
1, Nihom-bashi, Tori Itchome.
Bolls. — Jikken-dana (fine display
for girls' festival, 3rd March, and
boys' festival, 5tb May).
Crape Paper Picture Books. —
Hasegawa, in Hiyoshichd near
SMmbasM Station.
Coloured Prints. — Kobayashi, at
Asakusa Komakata ; Ikeda, at
Owari-ch5 Ni-chome.
Photographs. — Ogawa, at No. 13,
Kyobashi Hiyoshi-cho ; Okamoto,
at Ginza San-chome.
Bookseller. — Maruzen, at Nihom-
bashi, Tori San-chome.
Forei'pi, Proulsioa Dealer. — Kame-
ya, at Ginza Takekawa-cho.
Curios in general. — Ikeda, at
Owari-cho Ni-chome ; Joko, at
Kydbashi Yumi-cho ; Murata Kiui-
bei, at Nihom-bashi Kawasekoku-
cho ; Sawada-ya, at No. 17, Ginza
Itchome ; Daizen, in Naka-ddri
(chiefly for expensive articles).
There is also an interesting street
called Naka-ddri, running parallel
to the main thoroughfare between
Kyobashi and Nihom-bashi, full of
shops where old curios and brocade
are exposed for sale.
Chief Populae Festivals.
Monthly, 5th
Monthly, 10th (October,
special)
Monthly, 17-18th
Monthly, 21st (March,
special)
Monthly, 24th (September,
special)
First Day of the Hare
{Hatsu-u)
AprHlTth
April 18th
May and November 6-8th.
June 3rd ....
June 3-14th.
NAME OF FESTIVAL.
Suitengfi
WHERE HELD.
Kaldgara-cho.
Kompira Tora-no-mon.
Kwannon Asakusa.
Baishl Kawasaki
Afago Jinja Atago-shita.
IVIid-July* .
July 7-1-ith
July 9-lOth
July l.jth
July 15th
September ll-2Uth
Sejit ember loth . .
October r2-13th
Myokendu
Toshogu
Sanja Matsuri
Shokonsha (races,
wrestling, etc.)
Ejumano Jinja
Tenno Matsuri
Kaica-biraki ("Opening
of the Eiver")
Tenno Matsuri
Shi-man Boku-sen
Nichi..
Sanno
Hikaica Jinja
Shimmei Matsuri
Ka nda Myqjin
Eshiki (Anniversary
of Nichiren's death.)
November 22-2Sth Ko Mairi .
November (on Days of the
Bird, Torivo hi)
Torino Machi ...
Yanagi-shima.
Shilja and Ueno Parks.
Asakusa.
Kudan.
ligura and Aoyama.
Shinagawa, Y'otsuya,
Asakusa, Senji.
Ryogoku.
Nakabaslii.
Asakusa Kwannon.
Nagata-cho.
Alcasaka.
Shiba.
Kanda.
Ikegami and Hori-no-
uchi.
Monzeki temple at
Asakusa.
Asakusa.
* Sometimea delayed by rainy weather to early August.
114
Noide i. — Tdkyd.
Temples having laontbly festivals are most crowded in January.
May, and September. Further the 1st. loth, and 28th of each month
are more or less specially observed.
AMn to tlie popular festivals (matsurl or ennichi), are the following
fairs {ichi), held at the close of the year for the citizens to make seasonable
purchases : —
NAME OF FESTIVAL.
WHERE HFLL).
December 13th Tenno Soma ShinagaAva.
December 15th HacMman Fukagawa.
Kwanaon Asfikusa.
Kaivda Myojin Kandji.
Shimmei Shiba.
Atayo Atago-shita.
Tenjin Hirakawa.
Fiirlo Yagen-bori.
December 17-I8th...
December 20-21st . . .
December 22-23rd . . .
December 23-24:th . . .
December 25th
December 27-28th.
The rite of Walking over Fiie (Hl-wituri) may be witnessed at the
temple of Ontake at Kudan on the iJth April and 7th September. The
less interesting Ih-dejil b> Boiling Wnter {Kutja-darhi) takes place on the
previous da.\ .
Floweks.
rinm-bios.suins ( (Jme). — Kamada.
on the old Tokaido between CJmori
and Kawasaki : Kameido Ume-
yashiki and Kinegawa Ume-
yashiM, l)oth close to Mukojima,
Januar> to beginning of March.
Cherry-hlossoms (Sakura). — Ueno,
Mukdjima, and Shiba, early in
April ; Koganei. middle of April.
So many avenues of cherry-trees
have been planted in Tokyo during
the last twenty years, that for a
brief space in spring the whole city
is more or less a show of these
lovely blossoms.
Peonies (Botan). — Florists' gar-
dens at Somei, end of April ; Sen-
kwa-en and Shokwa-en in Azabu.
beginning of May.
Wistarias {Fuji). — Kameido. first
week in May.
Azaleas (Tsutsuji). — Florists' gar-
dens at Okubo-mtura, early in May.
Irises (Haroa-shobn). — HoriMri.
beyond Mukdjima, early in June.
Convolvuli {Asagao). — Florists'
gardens at Iriya in Shitaya, end of
July and beginning of August.
Lotus-jlowers (Hasu). — Lake Shi-
nobazu at Ueno, and the Palace
moats, beginning of Augiist. These
dowers can only be seen to perfec-
tion during the morning hoiu's.
Chrysapfhemums (Kikii). — Dan-
go-zaka and Asakusa, beginning of
November.
Maples (Momijl). — Kaianji at
Shinagawa. beginrdng of Novem-
ber ; Oji, middle of November.
Principal Places to visit. — Shiba
and Ueno Parks (tombs of the
Tokugawa Shoguns in both, the
former more easily accessible).
Temple of Kwannon at Asakusa
and neighboiudng park, Hakubutsu-
kwan Museiuu at Ueno, the Kwan-
koba Bazaar in Shiba, Atago Tower
for view of the city. Drive along
the main thoroughfare (Ginza) to
Nihom-bashi and round the inner
moat {Naka-bori).
Time of Chief Points by jinrikisha
with two coolies :
From Shimbashi terminus to : —
Imperial Hotel 5 ilin.
Tokyo Club 5 „
Hotel Metropole 12 „
British Legation 18 „
United States Legation... 10 „
Shiba Park 10 „
Ueno Park 35 „
Asakusa (Kwannon) 40 „
History. Shiha Park.
115
HisTiiEY. — Tbe city ia of comparatively
modem origin. Down to the middle ages,
most of the ground which it covers was
washed by the sea or occnpied by lagoons.
On the sea-shore stood, in the 15th centu-
ry, the fishing hamlet of I'e-do ("estuary
gate'"), _near which a certain warrior,
named Ota Dokwan, built himself a
fortress in the year 14.50. The advantages
of the position from a military point of
view were discerned by Hideyoshi, who
therefore caused his general, leyasu, to
take possession of the castle, and when
leyasu himself became Shogun iu 1G03.
he made Yedo his capital. From that
time forward Japan thus practically had
two capitals, — Kyoto in the west, where
the Mikado dwelt in stately seclusion,
and Yedo in the east, whence the Shogun
held sway over the whole land. The
latter'a feudal retainers, — the Daimyos, or
territorial nobility were obliged to reside
in Yedo for half of each year. On the
fall of the Shogunate in 18C8, the Mikado
came and took up his abode in Yedo, and
soon after the name of the city was
changed to Tokyo or Tokei, these being
alternative methods of pronouncing the
Chinese characters jjT f?. with which the
name is written. The meaning of the
term Tokyo is "Eastern Capital." It was
given in contradistinction to Saikyo, or
"Western Capital," the name by which
Kyoto was re-christened. The Emperor's
palace stands in the centre of the city,
within a double line of moats, on the site
once occupied by_the Shogun's castle,
and earlier still by Ota Dokwan'a fortress.
A whole network of canals, traversing
the business quarter of the city, connects
these with the Sumida-gawa.
Tokyo has been burnt down and built
uj) again many times, fires having former-
ly been as common in this wooden city
as at Constantinople. It has also sufi'ered
much from earthquakes, especially from
what is still remembered as the great
earthquake of 1855. At the present day
Tokyo covers an immense area, popularly
estimated at 4 ri in every direction, in
other words, 100 square miles.
The city ia divided for administrative
purposes into fifteen districts (Ku), viz : —
1, Koji-machi ; 2, Kanda : 3, Nihom-bashi ;
4, Kyobashi ; 5, Shiba ; 6, Azabu ; 7, Aka-
saka ; 8, Yotsuya : 9, Ushigome ; 10, Koishi-
kawa ; 11, Hongo ; 12, Shitaya ; 1:3, Asa-
kusa ; 14, Honjo ; 15, Fukagawa. The
principal suburbs are Shiuagawa S., Naito
Shinjiku W., Itabashi N. W., .and Senju
N. E.
Since 1869, a great change has taken
place in the outward appearance of the
city. Most of the yashikl. or Daimyos'
mansions, have been pulled down to
make room for buildings in European
style, better adapted to modern needs.
The two-sworded men have disappeared,
the palanquin has given place to the
iinrikisha, and foreign dres.? has been very
generally adopted by the male half of the
population. But Tokyo ia picturesque
enough, and, as seen from any height has
a tranquil and semi-rural aspect owing to
the abundance of trees and foliage, — an
effect increased of late years by the plant-
ing of numerous avenues of cherry-trees,
which, early in April, transform the town
into a garden of blossom.
A plan of city improvement has been
adopted, in consequence of which the
narrower streets of any district burnt
down are widened, and better sanitary
arrangements introduced.
Waterworks are in process of construc-
tion to supply Tokyo with water from the
river Tamagawa.
Owing to the shape and the vast
extent of the city, it is impossible
to combine the chief sights in a
single round. The best plan is to
take them in gi'oups, according to
the direction in which they lie.
The following description proceeds
on this principle.
1. — Shiba Pake. Temples and
Tombs of the Shoguns. The
KWANKOBA. GeAYES OF THE
FOKTT-SEVEN IiONINS (SeNGAKUJI).
Atago-yama.
From the 8himbashi Kailway
terminus, a long naiTow street,
called Hikage-cho at the beginning
and Shimmei-mae at the end, leads
to Shiba Park, and is particularly
well worth strolling along for the
sake of the shops. Nowhere can
one more easily pick up the thou-
sand and one little articles that are
in daily use among the people.
Passing in by the Daimon, or
Great Gate, we turn through the
park r. to the Kioankoba, one of
the best bazaars in T5ky6, where
everything is sold at fixed prices ;
or if one enter Shiba Park by the
N. gate ( Onari-Mon), the Kwankdba
will be on the 1.
Shiba Park (Shiba Komrhi) formed, till
1877, the grounds of the great Buddhist
temple of Zdjoji, the head-quarters in this
city of the Jodo sect. Here are still
preserved the Blortuary Temples {Go Rei-
ya) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns,
leyasu, the founder of that dynasty and
of Yedo, having taken Zojoji under his
special protection, and chosen it as the
temple where the funeral tablets {ihai't of
116
Route 4. — Tokyo.
himself and his descendants should be
preserved. The temple had been
originally founded in 1393, but wrts re-
moved iu 1596 to the present site. The
partial transfer of the temple to the Shin-
toists, iu 1873, naturally led to friction
between them and the Buddhists, the
gravest consequence of which was the
destruction by fire of the magnificent
main building on the 1st January, 187i. It
has been replaced by a new build-
ing, smaller and much less imposing.
Only the large gate (sammon) remains just
as it was built in 1623. This temple,
which is used for popular worship, must
not be mistaken for one of the Mortuary
Temples.
The following is a list of the Tokugawa
Shoguus. Those whose names are marked
with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at
the opposite end of Tokyo; those whose
names have a dagger prefixed lie at
Xikko, 100 miles to the X. of Tokyo, and
the others at Shiba.
PEIiSONAL
NAME.
rOSTHCMOU.S
TITLK.
A.D.
1. tieyasu Toshogu 1616
'-'. Hidetada Taitoku-In 1632
3. tiemitsu Taiyu-In 1651
4. *Ietsuna Geny u-In 1080
5. *Tsunayo8hi . . .Joken-In 1709
6. lenobu Bunsho-In 1713
7. Tetsugu Yiisho-In 1716
8. *i'oshimune . . .Yutoku-In 17ril
9 . leshige Junshin-In 1761
10. *Ieharu Shimmei-ln 178G
11. *Ienari Buukyo-In 1841
12. leyoshi Shintoku-Iii 1853
13. *Iesada Onkyo-In 1858
U. lemochi Shotoku-In 1866
15. Yoshinobu (usually called Kei-
ki), abdicated, and is still living
in retirement st Tokyo.
The Shiba Temples, which
count among the chief luarvels of
Japanese art, should, if possible, be
visited on the forenoon of a fine
day. OtherM'ise their situation, and
the black boarding which has been
put up to ward off the attacks of
the weather, will interfere ■with the
full enjoyment of then- minutely
elaborate decorations. They may
best be taken in the following order.
Persons pressed for time might
limit themselves to an inspection
of the temple and tomb (Octagonal
Shrine) of the •2nd Shogun only
(see p. 120).
The entrance to the Mortuary
Shrines of letsugu and leshige,
the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is
immediately opposite the Kwan-
koba. A highly ornamented gate
called the Ni-Ten Mon, or (rate
of the Two Deva Kings, leads into
a court containing numerous stone
lanterns offered by Daimyos as a
mark of respect to the memory of
their deceased lord and master, the
Shogun. At the opposite end of the
court is the Choku-r/alcu Mon, or
Gate of the Imperial Tablet, so
called from a tablet hung over the
hntel, containing in gold letters the
posthumous name of the 7th Sho-
gun in the fac-simile of the hand-
writing of the Mikado known to
history as Naka-no-Mikado-no-In
(d. 1737). This gate is remarkable
for its pillars with dragons twisted
round them, originally gUt over a
coating of red oxide of iron. Pass-
ing through this gate, we enter an
inner court hned with bronze lan-
terns, two hundred and twelve in
all, dating some fi'om A. D. 1716,
some from 1761, also the gift of
Daimyos, and ha\'ing r. a behry and
1. a cistern for holy water. Hence
through a third gate called the
Kara Mon, or Chinese Gate, on
either side of which extends a
gaUery with beautifully painted
carvings of flowers and bii'ds in the
panels. Observe the angel on the
ceUing, the work of Kano Ryosetsu.
A short colonnade of black i)illars
edged with gold leads to the portico
of the temple, where, among other
triumphs of carving, are two
dragons, called " the Ascending and
Descending Dragons" (Nobori-ryu
and Kudari-ryu), which serve as
beams to connect the temple with
two pillars outside.
Tii to this point the pubhc has
free admittance. Those desirous
of seeing the interior of the temple,
together with the tombs, must
apply to the custodian, and pay
him on departing a fee of 20 sen per
head. Boots must of course be
removed before entering. (These
observations hold good at all the
other Mortuary Temples.) The
-visitor is led directly into the
Shiba Temples.
117
sanctum containixig the altar.
And here be it noticed that each
of these Mortuary Temples consists
of three parts, — an outer oratory
(haiden), a connecting gallery or
corridor {ai-iio-ma), and an inner
sanctum (hondcn). In each of these
one finds oneself in a blaze of
gold, colours, and elaborate ara-
besques, which, especially if the
day be fine, quite dazzle the eye by
their briUiancy. In feudal times,
when the Shogun came to worship
the spirits of his ancestors, he
alone ascended to the sanctum,
the gi'eater Daimyos ranged them-
selves next to him in the corridor
below, and the lesser nobihty oc-
cupied the oratory.
The altar of this temple is sepa-
rated from the corridor by one of
those bamboo blinds bound with
silk, which, together with a pecuhar
kind of banner, temj^er the brillian-
cy of the other decorations. The
sanctum contains three double-
roofed shiines of the most gor-
geous gold lacquer, picked out with
body-colour below the eaves, and
held together by costly and elabo-
rate metal-work. That to the r.
contains a wooden image of the
father of the 6th Shogun, that in
the middle an image of the 7th
Shogun, and that to the 1. one of
the 9th Shdgun, together with the
funeral tablets of each. The
images, which are considered sacred
because presented by Mikados, are
never shown. On either side of
each shiine stand wooden statu-
ettes of the Shi-Tenno, who guard
the world against the attacks of
demons. In front are Kwannon
and Benten. The wall at the back
is gilt, while the altar and two
tables in front are of splendid red
lacquer. In innumerable places
may be seen the three-leaved
asarum or kamo-aoi, which is the
crest of the Tokugawa family, and
the lotus, the Buddhist emblem of
purity. The altar is protected at
night by massive gilt gates, orna-
mented with the famUy crest and
conventional floM'ers. Descending
into the corridor, and noticing as
we pass the gorgeous paneUing of
the ceiling, we reach the oratory,
where the decorations are on a
similar scale of magnificence. Ob-
serve the conventional paintings of
Uons on the wall. Under the
baldachin sits on festival days (12th
and 13th of each month, when visi-
tors are not admitted) the abbot of
Zojoji, while the priests are ranged
around at small lacquer tables.
The lacquer boxes on these tables
contain scroUs of the Buddhist
sutras. As the guide leads the
way from the temple to the tombs,
observe on the eaves the carvings
of musical instruments, lions,
dragons, etc. Observe, too, the
carvings of unicorns (kirin) on the
Oshi-kiri Mon, or Dividing Gate,
which is now passed through.
Although the carving is open-work,
the dragons appear quite different
according to the side from which
they are viewed. Thence, through
a noble coui't with more bronze
lanterns, to a stone staircase which
leads up to the site of the Tombs, —
that of the 7th Shdgun to the 1.,
that of the 9th Shogun to the r.
Below each tomb is a highly
decorated oratory. The tombs are
of stone, in the shape called hoto
(treasure shrine), which somewhat
resembles a pagoda. They stand
on an octagonal gi'anite base, with
a stone balustrade. Their simplici-
ty contrasts strongly with the
lavish magnificence of all that goes
before. As lilitford says in his
Tales of Old Japan, " The sermon
may have been preached by design,
or it may have been by accident,
but the lesson is there."
The pattern on the black copper
sheeting round the wall enclosing
the tomb, is intended to represent
the waves of the sea. The body is
said to be buried at a depth of 20
ft., and to have been coated with
vermilion and charcoal powder to
prevent decay. The tomb of the
9th Shogun is a replica of that of
Shiba Temples
119
the 7tb. On lea\ing- this place, we
pass the oratory of the 7th Shogun,
and notice the exquisite carvings
in high relief of peacocks on the
panels of the gate.
Leaving this temple by the Cho-
ku-gnlcu Mo7i, and turning r.
through rows of stone lanterns, we
soon reach r. another splendidly
carved gate, which gives access to
the temple and tombs of the Gth,
12th, and 14th Shoguns. In
arrangement, the temj)le closely
resembles the one we have just
left ; but the gilt is fresher, the
carvings are truer to nature, and
the general impression more
magniticent, the result jjerhaps
of the interest taken by the 6th
Shogun in the preparation of
his own last resting-place. The
flowers and birds in the spaces
between the cornice and the lintel
of the oratory are perfect, both
in chiselling and in dehcacy of
colour. The coffered ceihng is a
masterpiece ; and the \'ista of the
altar, as one stands under the
baldachin, reveals an inde-
scribable glory of blended gold
and colours. The order of the
shrines on the altar is, from r. to
1., that of the 12th, 6th, and lith
Shoguns, the shrine of the last
containing also the funeral tablet
of his consort.
From the Mortuary Temple, a
flight of steps at the back leads iip
to the tombs of these three Shoguns
and of the consort of the Idtli, who
was aunt to the present Mikado,
and after the death of her husband
bore the title of Sei-kwan-in-no-
Miya. Her obsequies, in 1877,
were the last performed within
these precincts. Each tomb has a
small oratory attached. The fine
bronze gate of the enclosure of No.
6, which is the first tomb reached,
is said to be the work of Korean
artificers ; but the design was
probably furnished by a Japanese
draughtsman. The dragons in low
relief on the r. and 1., both inside
and out, are specially worthy of
attention. Next to it is the tomb
of the 12th Shogun, and beyond it
again those of the 14th and his
consort. The tomb of this princess
is of bronze and marked by the
Imperial crest, the sixteen-petalled
chrysanthemum.
Quitting the gi'ounds of this
Mortuary Temple by a small side
door to the r., we turn down 1. to
the main road, and enter the
grounds of the Temple of Zojoji by
the Great Gate {Sammon), which
is the oldest (277 years) of all the
buildings, it having escaped the
gi-eat tire of 1874. Notice that
it is lacquered red, not simply
painted. The upper storey, which
is reached by an extremely steep
staircase, contains large images of
the Sixteen Eakan, coloured and
seated in an artificial rockwork.
In the middle is Shaka, finely gUt.
These can generally be seen only
on application to the priests. The
gi-and bell, on the r., was saved
from the fire, and only suspended
again in 1892. On the 1. are the
priests' apartments {Hqjo) and
Index to PijAN of Shtba Temples.
1. Ni-TenMon.
2. Temple of 7th and 9th Shoguns.
3. Tombs of 7th and 9th Shoguns.
4. Temple of 6th, 12th, and 14th
Shoguns.
5. Tombs of 6th, 12th, and 14th
Shoguns.
6. Great Gate (Sammon).
7. Shrine of Five Hundi-ed Kakan.
8. Priests' Apartments.
9. Zojoji.
10. Gokoku-den.
11. Ten-ei-in.
12. Temple of 2nd Shogun.
13. Octagonal HaU {Hakkaloj.-dd).
14. Ankoku-den (Tos/to^rM).
15. Maruyama.
16. Pagoda.
17. Shrine of Benten.
18. Koyo-kwan (Maple Club).
120
Boule 4. — Tokyo.
temple offices {Jimusho). In front
is the main temple of Zojoji,
restored outwardly in the plainest
style, but spacious mthin. The
large gilt image of Amida enthron-
ed on the altar is from the chisel
of the famous Buddhist abbot and
artist Eshin. The temple pos-
sesses many objects of artistic and
historical interest, but they are
only occasionally displayed. Just
outside, on the 1., is a stone with
the imprint of Buddha's feet,
which are of phenomenal size.
The Kttle temjile at the back of
Z6j5ji, in the same biilhant style
of decoration as the Mortuary
Temples, is called Gokoku-den. It
contains the Kuro-Honzon, or Black
Image, — a statuette of Amida by
Eshin, noteworthy on account of
the veneration in which it was
held by leyasu, who used to cany
it about with him in his campaigns,
and ascribed his victories to its
influence. Admittance to the
Gokoku-den is gained through the
priests' house to the 1. The Black
Image, which is not shown save on
great occasions, is enclosed in a
handsome gold reUquary. Another
rehquary contains small marble
images of the Sixteen Rakan.
Notice the curious plate-shaped
ornaments above the pillars in
front of the altar, with the Bud-
dhist gods Shaka, Monju, and
Fugen, and attendant animals in
high relief. The bold j)aintings of
hawks round the waUs recall
leyasu's fondness for hawking.
The fine bronze image of Shaka
outside dates from the year 1763.
Such unprotected statues are called in
Japanese by the rather irreverent name
of "wet saints" (nurc-hotoke). The thin
sticks inscribed with Sanskrit characters
■which stand behind it, are sotoba (see
p. 43-4).
Coming down from Gokokunlen,
and leaving the Zdjoji enclosure by
an opening to the r., we next reach
the Mortuary Temple ( Ten-ei-in) at-
tached to the tombs of the consorts
of the '2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th
Shogvms. Admittance is by the
priests' house to the 1. Though
the oratory is plainer than those
already described, the altar is by
no means less splendid. Gilded
gates. gilded panelling, huge
gilded pillars, — everything sparldes
with gold, while the shrines on the
altar are the most magniticent
specimens extant of a peciiliar kind
of lacquer adorned M-ith metal-
work. Their order is, from r. to 1.,
the consorts of the 12th, 6th, 2nd,
and 11th Shoguns, while in the
extreme 1. corner is that of the
concubine of the 5th. The coffered
ceihng, decorated -nith the phoenix
in various colours, is specially
admired.
From this temple, we pass into
the coiu-t of that attached to the
tomb of the 2nd Shogiui, — entrance
though the priests' house to the
r. The sanctum is a grand ex-
ample of Japanese religious ar-
chitectui-e. Two huge gilded pillars
called daijin-hashira, r. and 1. of
the altar, support the lofty vaulted
roof, curiously constructed of a net-
work of beams. The upper part of
the walls is decorated with large
carved medalhons of birds in high
relief, richly painted and gilt. The
shrine is of fine gold lacquer, over
two and a half centuries old, and
the tjibles in front also deserve
inspection. The bronze incense-
burner in the form of a lion dates
from 1635. leyasu's war-drum
rests on a large ornamental stand.
The coffers in the ceilings are filled
with fretwork over lacquer.
A short walk among the lofty
trees behind to the 1. leads up to
the Hakkaku-do, or Octagonal Hall,
containing the tomb of the 2nd
Shogun, which is the largest speci-
men of gold lacquer in the world
and one of the most magnificent.
Parts of it are inlaid A^-ith enamel
and crystals. The scenes on the
upper half represent the "Eight
Views " of Siao-Siang in China and
of Lake Biwa in Japan, while the
lower half is adorned with the lion
Shiha Temples. Forty-seven Ronins.
121
and i^eony, — the Mng of beasts and
the Mng of flowers. The base is of
stone shaped Hke a lotns-flower.
The shrine contains only an efligy
of the Shogun and his fnneral
tablet, the actual body being be-
neath the pavement. The interior
walls of the hall are of lacquer
gilded over. Eight pillars covered
-with gilt copper plates support the
roof.
Outside this building are two
curiously carved stones, dating
fi-om 16i4. The subject of one is
" Shaka's Entry into Nirvana," and
of the other the " Mve-and-Twenty
Bosatsu" coming with Amida to
welcome the departed soul. The
oratory in fi'ont of the Octagonal
Hall contains nothing worthy of
special notice.
Descending again to the Mortua-
ry Temple, and passing through its
two gates, the visitor rejoins the
main road, and turning r., •will
reach, a hundred yards further on,
the large gate stanthng in front of
the temple of Ankoku-den. Here,
on the 17th of every month, a
popular festival is held in honour
of the Shogun leyasu, who is wor-
shipped as a Shinto deity under
the name of Toshogu. Constructed
when Buddhism was dominant,
this temple is architecturally as
highly ornamented as the rest, the
present supremacy of the Shinto
cult being indicated only by the
paper symbols {gohel) in the orato-
ry, which also contains a large
bronze mirror and two gilt arna-
iaa. The sanctum (admittance
through the Shamusho, or temple
office, to the r.) stands behind, in a
separate enclosure. The cotfered
ceiling is very fine, as are the
hawks and birds of paradise on a
gold ground in the panels round
the interior. Particularly excellent
is a painting by Kano Hogen at the
back of the altar, representing
Shaka attended by Monju and
Fugen. The shrine is about 4 ft.
high, with an elaborate cornice of
three rows of brackets ; and its
walls are of splendid gold lacquer
with raised designs. In front, on
the door-panels, are eight small
landscapes, with dragons de-
scending through the clouds on
either hand. At the sides are
boldly designed groups of the pine
and bamboo. Inside is a life-like
wooden effigy of leyasu, which can
be seen only on the 17th day of the
month.
A visit to Shiba may be termi-
nated by walking up Mnruyama,
the little hill at the back, which
commands a pretty view of the
bay. Close to the Pagoda, which
is not open to the public, stands a
monument erected in 1890 to the
memory of Ino Chtikei, the father
of Japanese cartography, who floru'-
ished in the ISth century.
The mound of which this monument
stands has recfntly been discovered by
Prof. Tsuboi to be an artilicial tumulus
(tsuha) of the gourd-shape used for Im-
perial interments over a thousand years
ago ; and there are two smaller tumuli
close by. The larger was probably the
burial-jilace of some prince, as a branch
of the reigning family settled in Eastern
Japan in very early times.
Thence one descends to the little
Temple of Benteti, picturesquely
situated on an islet in a lake over-
gTOwn with lotuses. Further back
in the wood stands the Kdyd-ku:an,
or Maple Club, vrhere excellent
dinners and beautiful dances in
native style are given.
Shiba is particularly lovely in
early Ajiril, when the cheiTV-trees
are in blossom.
About 1 m. from the Shiba tem-
ples, in the direction of Shinagawa,
stands the Buddhist temple of
Sengakuji, where the Forty-seven
Ronins {Shi-ju-sldchi Shi) lie
buried.
For their dramatic stoiy, see Things
Japanese. A more minute account is
given in Mitford's Tales of Old Japan.
Just ^vithin the gate is a two-
storied building called Kanranjo,
where swords, armour, and other
122
Route 4, — Tokyo.
relics o£ these heroes are shown
on payment of a small fee. The
well (Kuhi-arai ido), where the
E,6nins washed the head of the
foe on whom they had taken ven-
geance, still exists by the side of
the path leading to the tombs,
which are ranged on the r. side of
a small square court. That in^ the
further corner is the gi'ave of Oishi
Kuranosuke, the leader of the
faithful band ; and the monument
next to his, on the other side of the
stone fence, marks the grave of the
lord for whose sake he and his
comrades sacrificed their lives.
The popular reverence for these
heroes is attested by the incense
perpetually kept burning before
Oishi's gi'ave, and by the visiting
cards constantly left there. Paint-
ed statuettes of the Eonins are
exhibited in a building below.
On the way back, one may obtain
a good ^iew of the city by going
up Aiarjo-yamu, a small hill a short
w^ay to the K. of Shiba Park, named
after the higher Mount Atago at
Kyoto.
Aiaijo i.s proiierly the uaine of ;t di-
vinity ; see p. 15.
Atago-yama, like many other
such places in Japan, has two
flights of stejjs leading up, it, one
of which, called '-the men's stair-
case" (otoko-zaka), is straight and
s eep, while the other, or " women's
sUdrcase" (onna-zaka), is circuitous
but less fatiguing. A tower has
been erected on Atago-yama, which
visitors pay a trifling fee to ascend.
The viewjncludes Fuji, the Hakone
range, Oyama, Mitake, Mount
Tsukuba, and the pro^inces beyond
T5ky5 Bay with Kano-zan and No-
kogiri-yama.
'2.' .4KASAKA .\XD AzABU.
Akasaka and Azabu are the
highest and healthiest parts of
Tokyo, but contain very httle to
interest the tourist. In a jjart of
Akasaka called Aoyima, is situated
the palace occupied for many years
by the Mikado while his present
palace was building, and now by
the Crown Prince. It is not open
to the public ; but the elite of
Tokyo society is invited there once
yearly to a garden party in Novem-
Iber, given on the occasion of what
is perhajjs the most wonderful chry-
santhemum show in the world.
Closel}' adjoining it, is an immense
Parade Ground (liempei-bu), where
the annual review on the Mikado's
birthday (3rd November) is held.
A little further to the S. lies the
Aoyama Cemetery, part of which has
been reserved for the interment of
foreigners.
Zempukujl, a temple of the Monto
sect, dates from A.D. 1'23'2, and is
somewhat striking. The temple
relics are exhibited from the 1st to
6th November. In the courtyard
stands an enormous iclH) tree,
known as the " Staff Icho."
Local tradition says tliat when Hhinraii
Shonin. the founder of the Moiito .sect,
was about to depart for Kyoto, and bade
adieu to Ryokai, the apostle of the sect
in Eastern Japan, he stuck his staff upside
down in the ground, saying, "Like this
staff shall be the strength of the faith and
the salvation of the lieople," — whereupon
the staff immediately begiiii to take root
and sprout uii wards.
To the W. of Azabu, in the suburb
of Shibuya, stands the lied Cross
Hospital {Seki-j nji-slm Byohi), a
large and admiraljly organised in-
stitution.
3, — Chief Builuino.s ix Koji-
MACHi. The Diet. Sanno.
Shokonsha.
Leaving Hhimbashi station and
turning 1. along the moat, the
wooden buildings of the Imperial
Diet will be seen beyond the em-
bankment on the other side. The
large brick buildings soon passed r.
were completed in 1877 for the
College of Engineering, the earliest
scientific academy established in
Japan, and jiresided over by English
professors. Since the amalgama-
Sanyi.o. Shokonsha: Yushu-kwav.
123
tioa of this College with the Impe-
rial University in 1886, the build-
ings have been nsed for various
other purposes.
Turning along the moat r., we
come to a stretch of flat gi"Ound,
which was till recently a swamp
called Tame-ike. On the hill to the
r. is the mansion of Marquis
Nabeshima, formerly Daimyo of
Hizen and now Grand Master of
Ceremonies at the Imperial Comt.
In front is the prettily wooded emi-
nence on which stands the Shinto
Temple of Sauno, ofticially styled
Hie Jinja. Dating in its jDresent
form from 1654, it was adopted by
the Shoguns of the Tokugawa
dynasty as their tutelary shrine.
.All the buildings, except the main
temple, are falling into decay.
Each of the inner compartments of
the large gate contains a seated
image of a monkey ornamented
with a bib, that animal being re-
garded as the servant of the divinity
of Hie, for which reason monkeys
also figure on the altar.
This neighbourhood, of which
the chief part is called Naijaia-cho,
is one of the most fashionable in
Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of
Princes Kita-8hirakawa and Arisu-
gawa, and the residences of man)""
high officials and foreign dij^lomats.
Hence, in local parlance, it is some-
times nicknamed Daimyo Koji, or
the Daimyo Quarter. Below
Prince Kita-Shirakawa's Palace lies
the Kioi-cho Koenchi, a garden
planted with azaleas and contain-
ing a luige monolith commemora-
tive of ( )kubo Toshimichi, one of
the founders of the new order of
things in Jajjan, who was assassin-
ated near this spot on the l-lth
May, 1878. On the flat top of the
Kudan hill, a short way beyond the
British Legation, stands the Hhinto
temple of Yasukuni, better known
as the
Shokouslia, or Spirit-Invoking
Shrine.
This temple was erected in 18C9 for the
worship of the aijirits of those who had
fallen iightiug for the Mikado's cause in
the revolutionary war of the previous
year. Services are also held in honour of
those who fell in the Saga troubles of
1873, the Satsuma rebellion of 1877, and
the China war of 1894;-.5.
The Shokonsha is built in accord-
ance with the severest canons of
pure Shinto architecture, and is
comjpletely empty except for a
mirror, a European drugget, and a
dozen cheap wooden chairs for the
use of the officials who come to
assist at the memoiial services
which are held from time to time,
the principal ones being on the 6-
8th May and 6-8th November.
These occasions are enlivened by
horse-races, wrestling, and other
popular amusements. The enor-
mous bronze forii was manufactur-
ed in the Osaka arsenal, and set up
in December, 1887.
The grounds behind the temple
have been tastefully laid out, and
look their best in early spring when
the plum-trees are in blossom.
The brick building to the r. of
the temple is the Yiishu-kican, a
Museum of Arms, which is open
on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Sat-
urdays, from 8 A.M. till 5 p.m. in
Slimmer, and from 9 to 3 in winter.
It well deserves a ^isit, for the sake
of the magnificent specimens of old
Japanese swords and scabbards
which it contains, as well as ar-
mour, old Korean bronze cannon,
trophies of the China war of 1894-5,
etc. The numerous jjortraits of
modern military men are depressing
specimens of the painter's art. The
granite lanterns lining the avenue
which runs down the centre of the
race-coiu'se, were presented by the
nobility in 1878. The large bronze
statue of Omma Hyobu Tayu,
a distinguished patriot in the war
that restored the Mikado to jiower,
was erected in 1892, and is remark-
able as the first Japanese example
of this method of commemorating
departed worth.
Leading the grounds of the Sho-
konsha, we come to an ancient
124
Route 4. — Tokyo.
stone beacon, which formerly light-
ed junks on their way up Yedo
Bay. Opposite to it, stands a
monument in the shape of a bayo-
net, erected in 1880 by the soldiers
of the Imperial Guard, in memory
of their comrades who had fallen
fighting on the loyalist side in the
Satsuma rebellion. This point
overlooks the city in the direction
of Ueno. The prominent edifice on
the bluff opposite {Suriuja-dai) is
the Eusslan Cathedral, consecrated
in 1891. To the citizens of Tokyd
it is familiarly known as yikora't,
from Bishop Nicolai, who built it.
At the foot of Kudan-zaka stands
the Temple of Ontake, where the
curious ceremonies of " Ordeal by
Boiling Water " and " Walking over
Fire " are held on the 8-9th April
and 16-17th September. For de-
tails, see Percival Lowell's " Occult
Japan."
4. — KojEviACHi (continued). The
Inner Moat. The Impeeial
Palace. Insatst; Kyoktj.
Another and more direct way
from Shimbashi to the Shokonsha
at Kudan, is by crossing the first
bridge (Snkcai-hashi) over the moat,
passing the Tokyo Club on the 1.,
and going straight on as far as the
Houses of the Diet, at the further
end of the open space known as
Hibiya, now lined on its W. side
with extensive public buildings,
viz. (counting from 1. to i*.) the
Naval Department, the Judicial
Department, and the Courts of
Justice. Here the road turns r.,
with the Russian Legation and the
Foreign Office on the 1. Skirting the
moat, the large building seen in
front is the Head-Quarters of the
General Staff Department.
Near here, on the 21th March, 1860, li
KamoQ-no-Kanii, Regent during the in-
terval preceding the election of ;i new
Shcigun, and a man of rare sagacity and
favourable to foreign intercourse, was
assassinated in broad daylight by emis-
saries of the Prince of Mito, who was
desirous of seating his own son on the
throne. To elucidate this incident, it
should be mentioned that there were three
branches of the Tokugawa family, viz.
Kishu, Mito. and Owari. from whom the
Shoguns were elected by a family council,
and that the election had fallen upon a
young prince of Kishii, thus baiUking
Mito's plans.
The moat here, "ndth its green
banks and spreading trees, and in
winter the numerous wild-fowl
fluttering in the water, is one of
the prettiest bits of Tokyo. The
vast enclosure of the Imperial
Palace lies beyond the moat.
The Imperial Palace. The
new Palace, inhabited by His Ma-
jesty the Mikado since 1.SS9, is not
accessible to the jjublic, only those
who are honoured with an Imperial
Audience being admitted within its
walls. Nevertheless the following
description, abridged from the
Japan Mall, may be of interest : —
Entering through long coiTidors
isolated by massive iron doors, we
find ourselves in the smaller of two
reception rooms, and at the com-
mencement of what seems an
endless vista of crystal chambers.
This effect is due to the fact that the
shojl, or sliding doors, are of jslate-
glass. The workmanship and de-
coration of these chambers are truly
exquisite. It need scarcely be said
that the woods employed are of the
choicest description, and that the
carpenters and joiners have done
their part with such sldll as only
Japanese artisans seem to possess.
Every ceiling is a Mork of art,
being divided by lactiuer ribs of a
deep brown colour into numerous
panels, each of which contains a
beautifully executed decorative de-
sign, painted, embroidered, or em-
bossed. The walls are covered in
most cases with rich but chaste
brocades, except in the corridors,
where a thick, embossed paper of
charming tint and pattern shows
what skill has been developed in
this class of manufacture at the
Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid
this luxury of well-assorted but
warm tints, remain the massive
Impe.ri'd Palace. Insafsu Kyoku.
121
square posts, — beautiful enough in
themselves, but scarcely harmo-
nising with their environment, and
introducing an incongruous ele-
ment into the building. The true
type of what may be called Imperial
esthetic decoration was essentially
marked by refined sunplicity, —
white wooden joinery, with pale
neutral tints and mellow gilding.
The splendour of richly painted
ceihngs, lacquered lattice-work, and
brocaded walls was reserved for
Buddhist temples and mausolea.
Thus we have the Shinto, or triie
Imj)erial style, presenting itself in
the severely colourless pillars, while
the resources of Budilhist architec-
ture have been di-awn upon for the
rest of the decoration. In one part
of the building the severest canons
have been strictly followed : the six
Imperial Stiidies, three below stairs
and three above, are precisely such
chaste and pure apartments as a
scholar would choose for the abode
of learning, lij way of an example
in the other direction, we may take
the Banqueting Hall, — a room of
magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and
noble proj)ortions, its immense ex-
panse of ceiling glowing Avith gold
and colours, and its broad walls
hung with the costliest silks. The
Throne Chamber is scarcely less
striking, though of smaller dimen-
sions and more subdued decoration.
Every detail of the work shows in-
finite painstaking, and is redolent
of artistic instinct. A magnificent
piece of tapestry hangs in one of
the reception rooms. It is 40 ft.
by 13 ft., woven in one piece by
Kawashima of Kyoto. The weav-
ing is of the kind known as
tsuzuri-nri, so called because each
part of the design is separated from
the body of the stuff by a border
of pin-points, so that the whole
pattern seems suspended in the
material. The subject represented
is an Imperial procession in feudal
Japan, and the designer has suc-
ceeded in grouping an immense
number of figm-es with admirable
taste and skill. The colours are
rich and harmonious, and the
whole forms probably one of the
finest pieces of tajjestry in existence.
The furniture of the palace was
imported from Germany. Exter-
nally the principal buildings are
all in pure Jaxianese style. The ap-
propriation for the Palace was
$3,000,000 ; but to this amount
must be added considerable sums
voluntarily offered by wealthy
Japanese, as well as A'aluable con-
tributions of materials.
The unpretentious brick and
plaster structure to be seen from
the E. side, rising above the moat
in the palace enclosure, contains
the offices of the Imperial lloiise-
hold Department. — -On leaving the
wide open space in front of the
palace and crossing the moat, one
comes to another wide extent of
gi'ound called Maru-no-uchi, former-
ly occupied by Daimyds' mansions,
and now gi-adually being covered
with the offices of various public
companies.
Not far off, in an E. dii-ection,
is the Insatsu Kyoku, or Govern-
ment Printing Office, a vast and
well-organised establishment, to
the inspection of which a day may
be profitably devoted, as its scope
is very wide, including much be-
sides mere printing. Here, among
other things, is manufactured the
paper cunency of the country.
The IVIinistiies of Finance, of Edu-
cation, and of the Interior, together
with various other Government
offices, are in the same neighbour-
hood.
&. — GlNZA. SuiTENGfT. NlHOM-
BASHI. CUKIO StKEET. SkIDO.
Kanda Myojin. Impekial Uni-
VEESITT. DaNGO-ZAKA. O-GWAN-
NON. Botanical Gakden. Koi-
SHIKAWA Arsenal .4Nd Gabden.
GOKOKXJJI.
The most important thorough-
fare in Tdkyo, which none should
fail to see. leads from the Shimbashi
126
Route 4. — Toki/o.
terminus to Megane-bashi and
Ueno. The portion of it which is
nearest to the station is called the
Ginza, and has a number of shops
in Eurojjean style. Proceeding
along it. the traveller crosses the
Kyobashi and Xihoin-bashi bridges,
from the latter of which all dis-
tances in Eastern Japan are cal-
culated. The General Post-Office
stands close by. Parallel to the
portion of the main thoroughfare be-
tween these bridges is Xaka-clori, a
street highly attractive on account
of its second-hand cuiio shops, and
hence commonly known as Ciuio
Street among the foreign residents.
2^ihorn-bashi has also given its name
to the surrounding large and btisy
district, which is filled Mith shops,
market-places, and godowns. The
great Ush-m'i rlcet is a notable sight
in the early hours of the morning.
Another sight (chiefly on the 5th
day of the month, but also on the
1st and 15th) is afforded by the
concourse of worshippers at the
Temple of SvUeiyju. in Kakigara-
cho.
Notice the brass cylinders hung to
ruetal pillars iu the grounds, and used by
the inqui.^itive for reading their own for-
tunes [mi kuji]. These cylinders contain
brass slips with j-uch inscriptions in Chi-
reae characters as "very lucky,'' "half
lucky," "unlucky," etc." For the deity
here worshipped, see p. o6.
Megane-hasJd, or " Spectacles
Bridge," is so called from its circu-
lar arches. The portion of the canal
to the 1. is popularly known as
" Sendai's Weeping Excavation "
(Naki-bori).
Local history s^ays that Tsuuaiuune.
Daimyo of Sendai, was in the habit of
squandering large sums at the Yoshi-
wara, and that the Shogun, in order to
turn him from his rakish ways, and also
to put such extravagance out of his
power, imposed on him the task of deep-
ening and widening this part of the moat,
— a work wiiich he is said to have per-
formed with much lamentation over the
drain on his purse.
A little way on is the former
Seido, the '• Sage's HaU", or Tem-
ple of Confucius, no^ used as an
Educational Museum. It is plea-
santly situated on rising ground in'
the midst of a gi'ove of trees, among
which the fragrant mok^i.sei is most
conspicuous. The buildings, which
date from 1091, are fine specimens
of the Chinese style of architecture.
The main hall facing the entrance
is supported on black lacquered
pillai-s, the ceiling also is of black
lacquer, while the floor is of finely
chiselled square blocks of, stone.
Opposite the door is a wooden
image of Confucius, possessing
considerable merit as a work of art.
The museum, which contains speci-
mens of school and kindergarten
furniture, books, maps, etc., is
open daily to visitors.
Just above, in the same gi-ounds.
stand the two sections of the Higher
Normal School, that in brick being
for young men, the other for girls.
Behind the Seido. is the Eyobu
Shinto temple of Kanda Myojin,
dedicated to the god Unamiiji and
to Masakado, a celebrated rebel of
the 10th century.
Aft«r the final overthrow of Masakado.
his ghost u.sed to haunt the neighbour-
hood. In order to lay this spectre, apo-
theosis was resorted to in the 13th cen-
tury. The temple, for which a hoary
antiquity is claimed, but which was only
established on its present site in 1C16, has
been frequently burnt down and rebuilt
since that time.
The temple, originally decorated
'with paintings by artists of the
Kano school, has now grown some-
what dingy, but is still popular 'with
the multitude. The chief festival,
celebrated on the 1.5th September,
is well worth seeing.
Entering the main sti-eet of the
district of Kanda, one of the chief
arteries of the northern portion of
the metropolis, we come r. to the
Imperial University ( TelkoJcu
Da'ujakv.), a set of handsome brick
buildings standing in the gi'ounds
of the former Kaga Yashiki, or
mansion of the great Daimyo of
Kaga.
UniversUy. Dango-zaka. Arsenal.
127
The germ of this institution was the
Hansho Shirahe-jo, or "Place for the Ex-
amination of Barbarian "Writings." found-
ed by the Tokugawa Government in 185G.
Seven years later, this name was altered
to that oi Kaisei-jo, or "Place for Develop-
ing and Completinpf," which indicated a
change for the better in the views held
by the Japanese aB to the value of Euro-
pean learning. Numerous other modjlica-
tions have taken place both in the name
and scope of the institution, which since
1881 has been placed on a thoroughly
modern footing, and now includes colleges
of Law.Medicine, Engineering, Literature,
Science, and Agriculture, where lectures
are delivered by a large staff of professors
o£ various nationalities and in various
languages. The students number over
2,700. The courses that attract most
students are those of Law, Medicine, and
Engineering. A large hospital connected
with the University stands in the same
grounds. Other institutions under the
authority of the President of the Uni-
versity are the Botanical Gardens in the
district of Koishikawa, and the Tokyo
Observatory at lignra.
_ Further on, in the direction of
Oji, are the tlorists' gardens of
Dango-zaka, whither the towns-
folk resort in thousands to see the
chrysanthemum shows in Novem-
ber. The flowers are trained over
trellis-work to represent historical
and mythological scenes, ships,
dragons, and other cmioits objects.
The O-Gicannon, or Great Kwan-
non, may be w^orth a passing
^dsit. The gilt image, which is
16 ft. high, was an offering made in
the 17th century by a merchant of
Yedo, and represents the goddess
bending slightly forward, and hold-
ing in her hand the lotns, the em-
blem of purity. Round the walls
of the shrine containing the image,
are ranged in tiers the Sen-tal
Kicannon, or images of the Thou-
sand Incarnations of Kwannon.
The Koisliikawa Botanical
Garden (Shoku-butsu-en) is open to
the public, and duplicate specimens
of the plants are for sale at the
office.
The small temple of Muryo-ln, in
the same district, is connected with
tie history of the early Catholic
missionaries to Japan, . some of
whom lie buried in the cemetery.
Hence the name of Kirlshitau-zaka,
or Christian Hill, by which the
locality is poj^ularly known. The
grave of the earliest of these mis-
sionaries. Father Giuseppe Chiara,
who died in 1G85, may be dis-
tinguished by a priest's hat carved
in the stone.
Readers desirous of further details are
referred to the writings of Sir Ernest
Satow and Professor J. M. Dixon, in Vol.
V). Part L and Vol. XVI, Part III, of the
TramscicHons <;/' the Asiatic Society of
Japan.
The Koishikawa Arsenal (Hd-
hei Kosho) occupies the site of the
former mansion of the Prince of
Mito. Here are manufactured the
rifles called tiayi-ju-nen Shiki, or
" 1898 pattern," adopted by the
Japanese Army in lieu of the well-
known Murata rifle. An order
from the military authorities is
necessary to gain admittance. An
order is also necessary for the
Garden [Koraku-en], which still re-
mains intact, and is the finest
specimen of the Japanese land-
scape gardener's art to be seen
in the capital. The object of its
designer was to reproduce in minia-
ture many of the scenes whose
names are classic among the lite-
rati of Japan. Prince Mitsukuni,
generally known as jVIito Komon,
laid oiit the grounds as a place in
which to enjoy a calm old age after
a life of labour. If the visitor has
first inspected the Arsenal, he will
then be conducted to a summer-
house in the garden, Avith an
extensive grass-plot attached, and
overlooking a lake copied from a
noted one in China, called Sei-ko.
A small wooded hill rises beyond,
which we ascend, and on which
stands a miniature replica of the
famous temple of Kiyomizu at
Kyoto, enriched with carvings, but
worn by time. Descending, we are
plimged for a minute in the
depths of a wood before reaching an
old bridge A^dth a rivulet running
far below. Crossing the bridge and
following up a zigzag path, we come
128
Route 4. — Tokyo.
to the shrine of Haku-i and Shikii-
sei, the loyal brothers of Chinese
lore, who, after the overthrow of
their lord and master, refused to eat
the grain produced under the con-
queror's sway, and, secluding them-
selves on Mount Shuyo, lived on
ferns till, being told that ferns grew
also on their enemy's lands, they
abstained even from that poor
food, and so died of starvation.
An arched stone bridge and
another shiine, shaped octagonally
in allusion to the Eight Diagi'ams
of the Chinese system of divina-
tion, are next passed. From here,
a tunnel-like opening leads through
a thicket of creepers and other
trees to a lake several acres in
extent and full of lotuses. The
water, which comes fi'om the Tama-
gawa aqueduct, is made to form
a pretty cascade before falling
into the lake. An island in the
centre is connected with the main-
land by a bridge. Everywhere
there are magnilicent trees, —
cherry-trees for the spring, maples
for the autumn, plum-trees for the
winter, making a change of scene
at each season. Near the exit, is a
hill with a path paveil in such
manner as to imitate the road OA'er
the Hakone Pass.
On the extreme N.W. outskirts of
the city stands the Buddhist tem-
ple of Gokokuji, now used as the
head-quarters of the Bhingon sect,
which has a seminary for young
priests. With its extensive grounds,
its sUent beKry, and the perfect
stillness of its surroundings, it
recalls the memory of days now
irreti-ievably past, when Buddhism
was a mighty power in the land.
The azaleas here are noted for their
beauty. The chief treasure of the
temple is a gigantic kakemono of
Buddha's Entry into Nirvana, by
Kano Yasunobu, which is shown
only during the month of April.
Adjoining Gokokuji is the new Ce-
metery of the Imperial family, select-
ed since the removal of the Court to
Tdkyo. It is not open to the public.
6. — Ueno Pake, Temples, and
Museum. Asakusa. Higashi
HoNGWANJi. Temple of Kwan-
NOX. MUKOJIMA. HOEIKIRI.
Ueno Park, famed for its
Temples and Tombs of the Shoguns,
is the most popidar resort in the
metropolis. Here, in April, all
Tokyo assembles to admire the
wonderful mass of cherry-blossom
for which it is famous. No traveller
should miss this opportunity of
■witnessing a scene charming alike
for natural beauty and pictiuesque
Eastern life.
The importance of Ueno, whk-h lies due
X. E. of the palace, had its origin in a
wide-spread superatition, which regards
that quarter as the most unlucky of all the
points of the compass, and brands it with
the name of Ki-mon, or the Demon's Gate
When, therefore, some progress had been
made in the construction of the city of
Yedo, the Shogun lemitsu, in the year 1625,
determined to erect here a set of Bud-
dhist temples, which, eclipsing all others
in splendour, should ward off the ap-
proach of such evil Influences. The origi-
nal main temple {Kwan-eiji) then founded
occupied the site of the present Museum,
but was burnt down in 1868 on the
occasion of a fierce battle fought between
the partisans of the Mikado and those of
the Shogun. The other gate still exists,
showing the marks of bullets. This
temple was counted among the triumphs
of Japanese architecture. Here always
resided as high-priest a son of the reign-
ing Mikado, retained in gilded slavery
for political reasons, as it was convenient
for the Shoguns to have in their power
a prince who could at once be decorated
with the Imperial title, should the Court
of Kyoto at any time prove refractory.
The last high-priest of Ueno was actual-
ly utilised in this manner by the
Shogun's partisans, and carried off by
them to Aizu in 1868, when they raised
the standard of rebellion.
Leaving his jiniilcisha at the
bottom of the hiU, the traveller
ascends r. a short flight of steps,
leading to a plateau planted with
cheiiy-trees and commanding a
good view of the city, especially
towards Asakusa, including the
twelve-storied tower which is seen
rising beyond the Ueno railway
station, and the high roof of the
great Hongwanji temple. The
Ueiio Park and Museum.
129
statue of »Saigo Takamori (see p.
82) was erected in 1899. The stone
monument close by is dedicated
to the soldiers who fell fighting for
the Shogun's cause in the battle of
Ueno. To the 1., is a dingy Bud-
dhist temple dedicated to the
Thousand-handed Kwannon.
Descending again to the main
road, we reach the celebrated
avenue of cherry-trees, a uniqiiely
beautiful sight during the brief
season of blossom, when the air
seems to be filled ^vith pink clouds.
To the 1., is a shallow piece of water,
called Shinobazu no Ike, celebrated
for its lotus-flowers in August.
On a little peninsula jutting out
into the lake, is a shrine sacred
to the goddess Benten. This for-
merly romantic spot fell a victim
to vandalism, when the shores of
the lake were tiirned into a race-
course, itself now also done away
with. A little further up, is
the Seiyoken Eesicmravt, which
commands a good view. The ex-
tensive buildings seen iu the dis-
tance, on a height, are the Imperial
University and the First Higher
School. Close to the restaurant is
a bronze image of Buddha, 21i ft.
high, known as the Daihutsu. This
inferior specimen of the bronze-
worker's art dates from about the
year 1660. Following along the
main road for a few yards, we come
1. to a bullet-riddled gate, preserved
as a relic of the battle of Ueno.
An immense stone lantern just in-
side it is one of the three largest
in Japan, and dates from early in
the 17th century. Further along
the avenue of stately cryptomerias
stand an ancient pagoda and a
glorious gold gate at the end of a
long row of stone lanterns, pre-
sented in 1651 by various Daimyos
as a tribute to the memory of the
Shogun leyasu. To this Shogiin,
under his posthumous name of
Toshogu or Gongen Sama, the
shrine within is dedicated. The
gate itself, restored in 1890, is
a dream of beauty. Carvings of
dragons adorn it on either side ;
above are geometrical figm-es, birds,
foliage, and everywhere the Toku-
gawa crest of three asarum leaves.
It is intended to restore in the
same style the temple whose gold
has been sadly worn away. The
details resemble those oi the Mor-
tuary Shrines at Shiba. The temple
contains some fine specimens of
lacquer. Kound the walls hang
pictures of the Sanju-rok-ka-sen,
(see p. 8'2), below wluch are screens
with conventional lions.
Keturning to the main road the
way we came, and passing by the
former buildings of the last Na-
tional Industrial Exhibition, now
used for an industrial bazaar, we
reach the
Ueno Museum [Ueno Uaku-
hutsu-kican). This institution,
which is open from 8 to 5 in sum-
mer, and from 9 to 4 in winter,
Mondays and the three weeks fi'om
the 16th December to the 4th Jan-
uary excepted, vi'ell merits a visit.
The contents are in the main ar-
ranged as follows, though frequent-
ly altered as to details :
Entrance. Giant drum for the
sacred Bungaku dances, palan-
quins, and stuffed animals.
Ground Floor. E. of Entrance.
Natural History Department : —
observe the cocks from Tosa, with
tail feathers 12.J ft. long. The front
rooms contain the Zoological Sec-
tion ; the back rooms, the Mineral-
ogical Section. A wing lying bej'ond
the room chiefly devoted to osteo-
logical and conchological spe-
cimens, is the Dej>artment of In-
dustry, containing glass and por-
celain (both foreign and Japanese),
stuffs, drawings, etc., beyond which
are a couple of rooms devoted to
modern pictures in both Japanese
and European style.
An annexe at the back of the
main building contains the surplus
of the Mineral ogical Section. The
landscape garden in Japanese style,
which has been laid out behind it,
need scarcely detain the traveller.
130
Route 4. — Tokyo.
Groiuvd Floor. L. ot Entrance.
Front rooms. Historical or Archre-
logical Department, inchicling
EooM I.
Ancient manuscripts and print-
ed books, old maps, painted scrolls,
and rubbings.
Room II.
Department of History. — This
room is chiefly devoted to ancient
objects from Horytiji, such as tem-
ple furniture, seals, golden tokko.
etc. There are also manuscripts,
which rank among the earliest spe-
cimens of Japanese calligrajDhy.
They are all in the Chinese lan-
guage. The principal other exhibits
are facsimile fi of ancient objects of
daily use at the Imperial Court
preserved at the 8h6so-in, a cele-
brated storehouse attached to the
temple of Todaiji at Nara, and im-
plements used in tho Shinto reli-
gious CTllt.
Two cases in this room have a
special interest, as they are tilled
with Christian relics.
Many of these date from the embassy
to Kome of Hasekura Rokuemon, who was
sent thither by Date Masamune, Daiinyo
of Sendai, in 161i, with a train of follow-
ers, and returned to Jajiau in 1020. The
official Japanese account of this curious
episode is that the embassy went at the
Shoguns desire, in order to investigate
the political strength and resources of
Europe. The version usually accepted by
Euroi^ean writers is that the expedition
really was what it avowed itself to be, —
an act of submission to the religious
supremacy of the Pope. The envoy was
well received at the Roman Court, and
was presented with the freedom of the
city of Kome, besides being loaded with
presents. The relics remained in the
possession of the Date family at Sendai
until a few years ago.
Among the objects in these cases,
are an oil-painting of Hasekura
in prayer before a crucifix, an il-
luminated Latin document confer-
ring on him the freedom of the
city of Rome, holy pictures,
rosaries, crucifixes, a smaU Japa-
nese book of Catholic devotion in
Hirafjana characters, photographs
of Date Masamune's letters to the
Pope in Japanese and Latin, a
portrait of Hasekura in Italian
costume, etc. To a set of circum-
stances very different in their
nature, though not far removed
in time, belong the fumi-ita, or
" trampling boards," — oblong
blocks of metal with figures in high
relief of Christ before Pilate, the
Descent from the Cross, the Virgin
and Child, etc., on which persons
suspected of the crime of Christian-
ity were obliged to trample dur-
ing times of persecution, in order
to testify their abjxu-ation of the
" Depraved Sect," as it was called.
The Dutch traders at Nagasaki are
suspected of having lent them-
selves to this infamous practice for
the sake of pecuniary gain. One
of the old kosatsu, or public notice
boards prohibiting Christianity, is
also here exhibited.
Room III. (End Room.)
Stone arrow-heads, spear-heads,
and pottery of the prehistoric
period ; proto-historic copper bells
and miiTors, iron swords, armour,
horse-trappings, shoes, and cooking
utensils. Besides the above, notice
also the pottery anciently used for
the presentation of offerings to the
Shintd gods. Some pieces fi'om
the provinces on the N.E. shore of
the Inland Sea are remarkably
ornamented with human figures in
high relief. Particvdarly curious
are the earthenware images of men
and horses used in proto-historic
times for interment in the graves
of illustrious personages, after the
custom of burying their chief
retainers alive with them had been
discontinued, the figures of birds —
apparently geese — which were used
as a fence round the tumulus of
the Emperor Ojin in the province
of Kawachi, and fragments of
earthenware posts put to a similar
purpose.
The adjoining room at the back
Ueno Museum.
131
has more prehistoric stone imple-
ments and pottery, swords, etc.
The most characteristically Japa-
nese specimens are the maga-tnma
and kuda-tama in jasper, agate, etc.
The maga-tama, or "curved jewels, "
■which somewhat resemble a tadpole in
shape, were anciently (say, prior to the
7th century) strung together and used as
necklaces and ornaments for the waist
both by men and women, as were also
the kuda-tama, or "tube-shaped jewels."
Their use survived in the Luchu Islands
till a much more recent date.
The second back room is devoted
to objects illnstrating the manners
and customs of the Chinese, Kore-
ans, Australian aborigines, natives
of India,- American Indians, and
Siberian tribes. The third back
room is given up to Japan's semi-
foreign dependencies, — Formosa,
Yezo, and Luchu.
The collection here to be seen of
weapons, ornaments, and wearing apparel
of the head-hunting tribes and other
aborigines of Formosa is lent by Mr.
Montague Kirkwood, who made a
prolonged official tour through almost
every part of Formosa and the outlying
islands in 1897-8 as adviser to the Japa-
nese Government.
(Tpper Floor La>itliii<i. — Ancient
Imperial state bullock cart and
palanquins ; model of the Tendd
Mnrn, or Ship of Heaven and
Earth, which was the state barge
used by the Shdguns.
The stift" flowers and geometrical pat-
terns of the Imperial bullock cart exem-
plify a feature often noticed in early
Japanese ornamentation, when art was
still in Chinese leading-strings, and had
not yet gained the freedom, together
witli the happy use of irregularity, charac-
terisfii- of later days.
<-'eidrfd lioo'in, adjoining the
landing. — Imperial robes, and other
articles used by the Mikado under
the old regime, including the thi-one
hung with silk curtains, which
served to shroud Majesty from the
gaze of ordinary mortals, who — so
it Avas believed— would be struck
blind if they looked ujjon the
'• Dragon Face."
Turning to the 1. (over the
Natural History Department), we
come to the Fine Arts Department.
Room 1 contains old kakemonos,
makimonos, and screens ; Room 2,
ancient masks and images, chiefly
bronze ; Room 3, more images and
temple plans. The back rooms on
this side, comprising the Art In-
dustry Dej^artment — lacquer, por-
celain, bronze, etc. display a large
collection of articles of rare beauty.
Upper Stoeey. R. of Enteance.
Room I.
Ancient kakemonos and maki-
monos.
Room II.
Another Department of History,
containing a collection of ancient
robes, foot-gear, and belts.
Room HI. (End Room.)
Musical instruments, utensUs for
the tea ceremonies, and specimens
of games.
The adjoining room at the back
contains ancient standard weights
and measures, and imitation speci-
mens of ancient gold and silver
coins. The second back room
contains armour, swords, bows
and aiTows, horse-traj^pings, war-
fans, and other martial gear. The
third back room has old boxes,
images, manuscripts, and other
objects, the most interesting to the
antiquarian being the specimens
of the miniatiu-e pagodas (Ilachi-
nuDi-to), of which, in A.D. 704:, the
reigning Mikado caused a million
to be made for distribution through-
out the land.
On quitting the Museum, an
avenue r. leads to the Art School
{Bijutsu Gakko), not accessible
without a special introduction. In
the same grounds are a Public
Library and Reading Room {Tosho-
kv-aii), the largest in the emigre,
132
Route 4. — Tokyo.
tliongh of qnite modest dimensions,
and a learned Academy called the
(rakushi Ewai-in. Close by are the
Zoological Gardens (Ddbutsii-en).
Before reaching the Tosho-kwan,
an avenue turns off r. to the
Tombs of tlie Shoguns (Go
Beiya), abutting on the second and
finer of the two Mortuary Temples
(Ni no Go Beiya). The main gate
is always kept closed, but a side en-
trance 1. leads to the priests'
house. The resident custodian will
act as guide for a small fee.
The six Shoguns buried at TJeno belong-
ed to the Toliugawa family, being the 4th,
5th, 8th, 10th 11th, and Vith of their line.
It is still at the private expense of the
family that these shrines are kept up. In
general style, they closely resemble those
at Shiba, described on pj). 116 — 121, and
are among the priceless legacies of the art
of Old Japan. Like the Shiba shrines,
too, they have suffered at the hands of
thieves since the Kevolution of 1868.
This glorious building, a sym-
phony in gold and blended colom-s,
has a wooden colonnade in front,
the red walls of which are divided
into compartments, each contain-
ing a medallion in the centre, filled
vdih. painted open-work carvings
of birds and flowers, with arabes-
ques derived from the chrysan-
themum above and a carved wave-
design below. In the centre of this
colonnade is a gate decorated with
a painting of an angel. From here,
an open colonnade leads up to the
steps of the main building. The
porch has brackets carved -\\-ith
conventional chrysanthemums. Its
square columns are adorned -^ith
plum-blossoms in red and gold.
Under the beams are red and gold
lions' heads as brackets. The
doors of the oratory are carved in
diapers, and gilded all over. Note
the tastefully painted diapers on
the architrave. The ceiling is
massive and loaded with metal
fastenings. In the coffers are
di-agons in gold on a blue ground.
The interior waUs are gilded, hav-
ing in some places conventional
paintings of lions, in others mova-
ble shutters. This apartment is 48
ft. wide by 21 ft. in depth. The
corridor which succeeds it is 12 ft.
wdde by 24 ft. in depth, and leads
to the black lacquered steps of the
inner sanctum. Its ceiling is
decorated with the phcenix on a
green and gold ground. Handsome
gilt doors covered with carved
arabesques close the entrance to
the sanctum, which measures 21
ft. in depth by 33 ft. in width.
The ceiling is decorated with fine
gilt lattice-work in the coffers. The
small shrines, containing the
memorial tablets of the illustrious
dead, are gorgeous specimens of
gold lacquer. Beginning at the r.,
these shrines are respectively those
of the 5th, 8th, and 13th Shoguns,
and of Kokyo-In, son of the 10th
Shogun. R. and 1. are two shrines
containing tablets of eight mothers
of Shoguns. Curiously enough, all
were concubines not legitimate
consorts. The actual graves are in
the gi'ounds behind. The finest, a
bronze one, is that of the 5th Sho-
gun. Its bronze gate has magnifi-
cent panels, with the phoenix and
unicorn in bas-relief, — Korean
castings from Japanese designs
about 150 years old.
The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi
no Go Beiya) is close to the Second.
On leaving the Second, turn to the
1. to reach the priests' house, where
apphcation for admission must be
made. Here are buried the 4th,
10th, and 11th Shoguns, together
with several princesses. The monu-
ment of the 4th is in bronze, the
others in simple stone. Over the
grave of the 11th Shogun hangs a
weeping cherry-tree, placed there
to commemorate tlie love of flowers
which distinguished that amiable
prince, whose reign (A.D. 1787-1838)
formed the culminating iDoint of
the splendour of Old Japan.
Returning towards the entrance
of the park, we reach the Buddhist
temple popularly known as Byd
Daishi, properly Jiijen-do, dedicated
to the two great abbots, Jie Daishi
Higashi Hongwanji. Asakusa Kwannon.
133
and Jigen DaisM, the former of
whom flourished in the 9th
century, the latter in the 16th and
17th. The portrait of Jie Daishi
here preserved is considered one
of the masterpieces of the great
painter Kand Tan-yii. On this
side of the park are some buildings
often used of late years for art
exhibitions of various Mnds.
We now leave Ueno, and passing
along a busy thoroughfare, reach
the district of Asakusa. The first
object of interest here is the
spacious temple of Hig"ash.i Hon-
gwanji, popularly called Monzeki,
the chief religious edifice in Tokyo
of the Monto sect of Buddhists.
Though very plain, as is usual with
the buildings of this sect, the
Monzeki deserves a visit on ac-
count of its noble proportions. It
was founded in 1657. The iron
netting thrown over the temple is
intended to prevent sparks from
falling on the wood-work, should
a conflagration occur in the
neighbourhood. The huge porch
is adorned with finely carved
wooden brackets, the designs being
chrysanthemum flowers and leaves,
and peony flowers and leaves. On
the transverse beams are some
curiously involved dragons, which
are the best specimens of this
sort of work in Tokyo, and should
therefore not be passed over.
Observe, too, the manner — peculiar
to the buildings of this sect — in
which the beams are picked out
with white. The area of the
matted floor of the nave (gcjin)
is 140 mats, and roiind the front
and sides runs a wooden aisle 12
ft. wide. Over the screen which
separates the chancel and its side-
chapels from the nave, are massive
gilt open-work carvings of angels
and phoenixes, the largest of which
are 12 ft. in length by 4 ft. in
height. The rest of the builtiing
is unadorned. Hanging against
the gilt background of the temple
wall, on either side of the altar, are
to be seen several kakemonos of
Buddhist saints, indistinguishable
in the " dim rehgious light ; " also r.
the posthumous tablet of leyasu,
which is exposed for veneration on
the 17th of each month. The
honzon, Amida, is a black image,
always exposed to view, and stand-
ing in a very handsome shrine of
black and gold lacquer. From the
r. side of the main hall, a bridge
leads down to the Jiki-dO, or
preaching hall. At the main
temple, sermons are only preached
for one octave in the year, viz.
from the 21st to 28th November,
when the imposing services (Ho-on-
ko) held in honour of the founder
of the sect are well worth witness-
ing. On this occasion, the men all
go to the temple in the style of
dress known as kata-ginu, and the
women with a head-dress called
tsuno-kakushi (lit. " horn-hider "), —
both relics of the past. The "horn-
hider" would seem to have been so
named in allusion to a Buddhist
text which says : " A woman's
exterior is that of a saint, but her
heart is that of a demon." — Lesser
services are held at the time of the
vernal and autumnal equinoxes.
Quaint testimony is borne to the
popularity of this temple with the
lower middle class by the notices
posted up on some of the great
columns in the main hall. Not
only is there one to prohibit smok-
ing, but one warning people not
to come here for their afternoon
nap (Hiru-ne muyo) ! On quitting
the Monzeki, notice its nobly mass-
ive roof, with lions rampant at the
corners, also the two large mono-
liths r., commemorative of soldiers
who fell in the China war of 1894:-5.
About 7 did from the Monzeki,
stands the gi'eat Buddhist temple
of Sensdji, popularly known as the
Asakusa Kwannon, because
dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess
of Mercy.
A fabulous antiquity is claimed for the
founding in this locality of a Bbrine
sacred to Kwannon, the tradition being
that the image which is now worshipped
134
RovU: 4. — Tokyo.
there, was flshed up on the neighbouring
strand during the reign of the Empress
Suiko (A.D. 593-628) by a noble of the
name of Hashl-no-Nakatomo, who had
been exiled to this then desolate portion
ijf the coast, and with two attendants
gained his livelihood by casting his nets
at the mouth of the river Sumida. In his
fishing-hut the first altar is said to have
been raised : and the crest of three nets,
which is to be seen marking certain
portions of the buildings, was devised in
memory of the event. The miraculous
image is never shown, but is commonly
believed to be but 1 ; inch in height : and
the disproportion between the smallness
of the image and the vastness of the
temple has passed into a popular saying.
Instead of the original sacred image, there
i.s exhibited on the 13th December of
evei-y year a newer and larger one which
stands in front of the high altar. In the
year 1180,1 Yoritomo endowed the temple
with ninety acres of arable land. But
when leyasu made Yedo his capita], he
found the temple gone to ruin, and the
priests living in disorder and immorality.
The present buildings date from the reign
of lemitsu, after the destruction by fire
of the former edifice. They are in the
possession of the Tendai sect of Bud-
dhists.
On no account shoiiM a visit to
this popular temple and the sur-
ronnding grounds {KOenchi) be
omitted; for it is a gi-eat holiday
resort of the middle and lower
classes, and nothing is more strik-
ing than the juxtaposition of piety
and pleasiure, of gorgeous altars
and grotesque ex-votos, of dainty
costumes and dingy idols, the
clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens
and pigeons strutting about among
the worshippers, children playing,
soldiers smoking, believers chaffer-
ing A\-ith dealers of charms, ancient
art, modern advertisements, — in
fine, a sjiectacle than which surely
nothing more motley was ever wit-
nessed M-ithin the precincts of a
rehgious edifice. The most crowd-
e<l times are Sunday afternoon, and
the 17th and 18th of each month,
days sacred to Kwannon.
The outer main gate of the
temple no longer exists. One
walks up through a lane of red
brick shojjs, where toys, photo-
graphs, and gewgaws of all kinds are
spread out to tempt the multitude..
The two-storied gate in front of the
temple is a huge structure of red
wood, %^'ith images of the Ni-o on
either side. The immense sandals
hung up in front of the cages con-
taining these images, are placed
there by persons desirous of
becoming good walkers. To the 1.,
immediately before passing through
the big gate, is a popular Shrine of
Fiido, just outside of which is a
shrine of Jizo, distinguishable by
a praying-wheel {gosho-guruma)
fixed in a wooden pillar, the whole
roughly resembling a pillar post-
box. There is a newer and better
one inside the court of the Fudo
shrine, with an inscription to the
" Lord Jizo, Nourisher of Little
Children." Images of Jizo on a
small hexagonal structure stand
behind it.
The jiraying-wheel is in Japan, found
only in connection with the mystic doc-
trine of the Tendai and Shingon sects.
and its use diflers slightly from that to
which it is put in Thibet. Xo prayers are
written on it; but the worshipper, attri-
buting to ingwa (the Sanskrit kornw, which
means, the efi'ect in this life of the actions
in a former state of existence) any sin
of which he wishes to be cleansed, or any
desire that occurs to him, turns the wheel
with a simple request to Jizo to let this
ingwii duly ran its course — the course of
ingwa resembling the perpetual revolu-
tions of a wheel.
On the opposite or r. side of the
lane, on a mound, is the large Asa-
laisa bell, whose sonorous notes are
heard all over the northern part
of the city.
The great hall of the temple of
Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is
entirely suiTounded by a wide
gallery. The large picttire hanging
above the entrance to the r. re-
presents life (under the figure of
two sleeping men and a sleep-
ing tiger) as nothing more than a
dream, the only h\-ing reality in
which is the power of religion
(typified by a Buddhist priest).
Just below this rests a huge moku-
gyo, — a hollow wooden block, fish-
shaped, which priests strike while
l>raying. The eye is caught, on
Temjihi of Kwannon at Asal.um.
13")
entering, 1)y the iniiuense number
of lanterns and pictm'es whic^L
cover the ceiling and M'alls. These
are all offerings presented by be-
lievers. Some of the pictures are
by good modern artists. One over
the shrine to the r. represents a
performance of the No, or iuefli;eval
lyric drama, in which the red-hair-
ed sea-demon called Shojo plays
the chief part. Opi^osite is a
curious painted carving in relief,
representing the " Three Heroes of
Shoku " (a Chinese state established
in the "iud century chiefly by their
efforts). The hero on the r., called
Kwan-u, is no^\• worshijiped in
China as the God of War. To the
1. of this, is one showing On-Uma-
ya-no-Kisanda fixing his bow-string
to shoot the foes of his master
Yoshitsiine, the latter (to the r.)
being awakened by his mistress, the
renowned and lovely Shizuka Go-
zen. The ceiUng is painted with
representations of angels, the \A'ork
of Kano .Doshun. The seated image
to the r., with a pink bib round its
neck, is a celebrated work of Jikaku
Daishi, and represents Binznru,
the helper of the sick. At any time
of the day believers may be
observed rublnng it (see p. 45), so
that it is now partially rubbed
away. The stalls in front of the
main shrine are for the sale t)f
pictures of the goddess Kwannon,
which are used as charms against
sickness, to help women in child-
birth, etc., of tickets to say whether
a child aliout to be born will Ije a
l)oy or a girl, and so forth. There
is also a place where fortunes are
told by the priests.
The chancel is, as usual, separat-
ed from the nave by a wire screen,
and is not accessible to the public.
A small douceur tendered to one of
the priests in charge will, however,
generally procure admission. On the
high altar, resplendent with laiui^s,
(lowers, gold damask, and sacred
vessels, and guarded by figures of
the Shi-Tenno, of Bon ten, and of
Taishaku,— the latter said to be the
work of Oyogi Bosatsu, — stands the
shrine containing the sacred image
of Kwannon. On either side are
ranged im.ages, some 2 or 3 ft.
high, of Kwannon in her " Three-
and-Thirty Terrestrial Embodi-
ments," each set in a handsome
shrine standing out against the
gold ground of the wall. K. and 1.
of the altar hang a pair of votive
offerings — golden horses in high
rehef on a lacqiier ground — present-
ed by the Hhogun lemitsu. On the
ceiling is n dragon, the work of
Kano Eishin. The side altar to
the r. is dethcated to Fudo. Observe
the numerous vessels used in the
ceremony of the Goma 2)rayers,
which are frequently offered up
here for the recovery of the sick.
The twelve small images are the
Ju-ni Doji, or attendants of Kwan-
non. The altar to the 1. is de-
dicated to Aizen Myo-o, whose red
image with three eyes and six arms
is contained in a gaudy slirine.
The two-storied miniature pagoda
is simply an offeiing, as are also
the thousand small images of
Kwannon in a case to the 1., and
the large European miiTor, in front
of which is a hfe-hke image of the
abbot Zenniu Shonin. At the back
of the main altar is another called
Ur'a Ktcannon (wa lueaning
"back"), which should l>e visited
for the sake of the modern wall-
liictures on lacquer with a back-
ground of gold leaf, by artists of
the Kano school.
True wall-paintings, that is, paintings
executed on a vertical surface, are ex-
tremely rare in Japan, the only well-
authenticatcfl examples known to us being
these at Asakiisa, some on plaster in the
Kouclo of the ancient monastery of Horyuji
near Kara, and others in the lower storey
of the pagoda of Toji at Kyoto. As a rule,
all so-called Japanese wall-paintings are
on large sheets of paper fl.xed in their
places after having been painted in a hori-
zontal position.
Above are a crowd of supernatu-
ral beings, headed by a converted
dragon in the form of a Ijeautiful
woman, who offers a large jewel to
136
Route 4. — Tokyo.
Shaka. Two of the latter's disciples
(Bakan) are at Ms r. foot, Monju at
ids 1. foot, and Fugen below on the
1. The figure of Fugen has been
restored within the last forty years.
Those on the r. and 1. walls are
intended for the Twenty-eight
Manifestations of Kwannon.
In the grounds are several biaild-
ings of interest, and a number of
icho trees whose golden f ohage in
autumn is in itself a sight. Behind
the great temple to the 1., stands a
small shrine full of ex-votos in-
scribed with the character ^5,
" eye," presented by persons afflict-
ed with eye disease. Beside it is a
large bronze image of Biiddlia, and
close by is a lantern on which be-
lievers pour water to obtain an an-
swer to their prayers. The small
hexagonal building immediately be-
hind the gi-eat temple is the JDaiho-
do or Jizo-do, containing a crowd of
little stone images seated in tiers
round a large one of Jizo. This
divinity being the special protector
of children, parents bring the
playthings of their dead httle ones
to his shiine. Beyond the Jizo-do,
is the Nemhidsu-do, with a pretty
altar. Turning r., we come to the
Sanja, — a Shinto shrine dechcated
to the Three Fishermen of the local
legend, and having panels decorat-
ed with mythological monsters in
gaudy colours. Note the bronze
and stone hons in front. Passing
the stage on which the Kagura
dances are performed, w-e reach
the Rinzo, or Revolving Library
(see p. 47), contained in a square
biiilding with carved hons on the
eaves. The Revolving Library is
of red lacquer on a black lacquer
base and stone lotus-shaped pedes-
tal. The ceiling of the small bnild-
ing containing it has representa-
tions of clouds and angels. The
images in front, on entering, re-
present Fu Daishi with his sons.
Those tramphng on demons are
the Shi-Tenno, and the hfe-size
gilt figure is Shaka. The books,
which were brought from China
early in the 13th century, are aired
every year at the autumn equinox,
but are not shown at other times.
The custochan, in return for a small
gratuity, will allow Adsitors to
make the library revolve.
The Fagoda close by is no longer
open to the pubhc.
Adjacent to the temple enclosure
we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or
Public Grounds, where stands the
lofty tower properly called Ryo-un-
kaku, and more popularly, Ju-ni-
kai. This building, erected in 1890,
has twelve storeys, as its popular
name implies, is 220 ft. in height,
nearly 50 ft. in internal diameter
at the base, and commands a more
extensive view than any other point
in the city. The grounds of Asa-
kusa are the quaintest and liveliest
place in Tokyo. Here are raree-
shows, penny gaffs, performing
monkeys, cheap photogi-aphers,
street artists, jugglers, wrestlers,
theatrical and other figures (ningyo)
in painted wood and clay, an aqua-
rium {sidzoku-kwan), vendors of
toys and lollypops of every sort,
and, circulating amidst all these
cheap attractions, a seething crowd
of busy hohday-makers.
Five min. drive behind the big
temple, stands a small but noted
one, Kinryu-zan, dedicated to the
god Shoden, on a mound called
Malsuchi-yama. This is a breezy
place, with a view across the river
Sumida towards the cherry avenue
of Mukojima. There is a ferry
close by.
The name Kinryu-zan, lit. "Golden
Dragon Hill," comes from a legend tell-
ing how the dragon which anciently
inhabited the river, climbed up to it
with a lantern to keep watch over the
great temple of Kwannon. Far-Eastern
dragons, be it observed, almost always
have some connection with water, whe-
ther river, lake, or rain-cloud.
About 1 m. to the N. of Asakusa
Park lies the world-famed Yoshi-
icara, the principal quarter inhabit-
ed by the licensed hetairte of the
metropolis. Many of the houses
Yoshiwara. Mukojima. Eko-in.
137
■within this distiict are almost pala-
tial in appearance, and in the eve-
ning present a spectacle probably
unparalleled in any other country,
but reproduced on a smaller scale
in the provincial Japanese cities.
The unfortunate inmates, decked
out in gorgeous raiment, sit in rows
with gold screens behind, and pro-
tected from the outside by iron
bars. As the whole quarter is
under special municipal surveill-
ance, perfect order prevails, ena-
bling the stranger to study, while
walking along the streets, the
manner in which the Japanese
have solved one of the vexed ques-
tions of all ages. Their method,
though running counter to Anglo-
Saxon ideas, preserves Tokyo from
the disorderly scenes that obtrude
themselves on the passer-by in our
western cities.
On the other side of Azuma-bashi,
one of the big bridges of Tokyo,
is the Satake Yashiki, which otfers
an excellent specimen of the
Japanese style of landscape garden-
ing. A small fee will procure ad-
mittance to it. The noted Yao-
matsu tea-house stands close by.
Muk5jixna, celebrated for its
avenue of cherry-trees, stretches
for more than a mile along the
1. bank of the Sumida-gatca. When
the blossoms are out in April,
Mukojima is densely crowded with
holiday-makers from morn till dusk,
and the tea-houses on the banks
and the boats on the river re-echo
with music and meiTiment. This
sight, which lasts for about a week,
should on no account be missed.
Various regattas are held about the
same season. Tlie little temple at
the end of tlie avenue was raised in
remembrance of a touching episode
of the 10th centiiry, which forms
the subject of a famoiis lyiic
drama.
Ume-wafea, the child of a noble family,
was carried off from Kyoto by ii slave-
merchant, and perinhed in this distant
spot, where his body was found by a
good priest who gave it burial. The next
year hia mother, who had roamed over
the country in search of her boy, came to
the place, where, under a willow-tree, the
villagers were weeping over a lowly
grave. On asking the name of the dead,
she discovered that it was none other
than her own son, who during the night
appeared in ghostly form, and held con-
verse with her ; but when day dawned,
nothing remained bnt the waving
branches of the willow, and instead of
hia voice only the sighing of the breeze.
A commemorative service is still held on
the 15th March ; and if it rains on that
day, the people say that the rain-dropa
are Ume-waka's tears.
Another favourite flower resort,
lying some little way beyond
Mukojima, is Horikiri, famed for
its irises which bloom in June.
The excursion is a pleasant one at
that time of year.
7. — Eko-in. The Five Hundeed
Rakan. Kametdo. Distkict of
fukagawa. susaki.
Crossing Eyogoku-hashi, one of
the largest bridges in the metro-
polis spanning the Sumida-gawa,
we reach the noted Buddhist tem-
ple of Eko-in.
In the spring of 1C57, on the occasion of
a terrible conilagration which lasted for
two days and nights, 107.040 persons are
said to have perished in the flames. This
figure is no doubt a gross exaggeration,
but whatever the number of victims may
have been, the Government undertook
the care of their interment, and orders
were given to Daiizaemon, the chief of
the pariahs,* to convey the bodies to
Ushijima, as tliis part of Yedo was then
called, and dig for them a common pit.
Priests from all the different Buddhist
sects came together to recite, for tho apace
of seven days, a thousand scrolls of tiie
sacred books for the benefit of tho souls
of the departed. The grave was called
Mueri-zuhi, or the Mound of Destitution,
and the temple which was built near it
is, therefore, also popularly entitled Mwn-
ji. The services for the dead {segaki\ are
regularly held on the 'ind and 19th days
* In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations
were to slaughter animals, tan leather,
assist at executions, etc. The class aa
such is now abolished ; but remnants of
its peculiar costume may still occasionally
be seen in tho persons of young girls with
broad hats, who go about the streets
playing and singing.
138
Pioute L—Tolyo.
of each month. Eljo-in being, ou account
of its peculiar origin, without the usual
means of support derived from the gifts
of the relatives of the dead, was formerly
used as the jjlace whither sacred images
were brought from other provinces to be
worshipped for a time by the people of
Yedo, and as a scene of public perform-
ances. The latter custom still survives
in the wrestling-matches and other shows,
which draw great crowds here every
spring and winter. At Eko-in prayers are
offered up daily for the souls of dead
animals. A fee of 30 cents will procure a
short service and burial in the temple
grounds for such domestic pets as cats,
dogs, etc., a larger sum being necessary if
the animal's thai, or funeral tablet, has
also to be furnished.
Eko-in might well be taken us a
text by those who denounce
"heathen" temples. Dirty, gaudy,
full of semi-defaced images, the
walls plastered with advertise-
meuts, the altiir guarded by two
hideous red Ni-6, children scamper-
ing in and out, MTestlers stamping,
crowds shoitting, — -the place lacks
even the semblance of sanctity.
In a small arched enclosure behind
the temple, stands the grave of the
celebrated highwayman Kezwni
Kozo, where incense is always kept
burning. The cemetery at the back
contains monuments to those who
l^erished in the great lire of 1657,
and in the great earthquake of 1855.
In Midori-cho, in the district of
Honjo, about 1 mile further on, is
a temple containing wooden images,
originally gilt over red lacquer,
almost life-size, of the Five Hund-
red Kalcan (Go-hyfdcu lialcan),
seated on slielves reaching from
the bare earth of the floor to the
rafters of the roof. They are from
the chisel of Shoun, an artist of
the 17th centiu-y. On some of
them are pasted sUps of paper with
their names. The much larger
image in the centre represents
Shaka, with Anan on his r. hand
and K.asho on his 1. The white
image in front of Shaka is Kwan-
non. The temple also contains a
hundretl small images of Kwannon.
Not far ofE stands the Shinto
temple of Temuiangfi, commonly
known as Kameido, from a stone
tortoise seated on a weU in the
grounds. Sugawara-no->Iichizane
is here worshipped under the title
of Temman Daijizai, i.e., " the Per-
fectly Free and Heaven-FilUng
Heavenly Divinity." The temi^le
grounds have been laid out in
imitation of those at Dazaifu, the
place of his exile. Passing in
through the outer gate, the eye is
tirst attracted by the wistarias
trained on trellis, whose blossoms,
during the last week of Ajjril, make
Kameido one of the chief show-
places of the capital. They grow on
the borders of a pond called »S7( inji
no Ike, or "Pond of the Word Heart,"
on accoimt of a supposed resem-
blance to (t\ the Chinese character
for " heart ; " and one of the
amusements of visitors is to feed
the carp and tortoises which it
contains. A semi-circular bridge
leads over the pond to a large gate
in yatsu-mune-zukuri (i.e., eight-
roofed) style, standing in front of
the temple. Glass cases inside the
gate enclose the usual large images
of Zuijin. Piound the walls of the
temjDle hang small pictures ou a
gold ground of the ancient religious
dances called BiKjaku.
Be^'^ond a shed containing two
life-size images of sacred ironies, is
an exit by Avhich the visitor can
reach the Ume-yasldki, or Plum-
Garden of Kameido, 4 did distant.
Here grow the Gicaryohal (lit.
Pluiu-trees of the Kecumbent Dra-
gon), and it is much \isited by the
citizens early in March, when the
blossoms are all out. There are over
500 trees, all extremely old and
partly creej)ing along the ground,
whence the name. Most of the cut
stones which stand about the
grounds are inscribed with stanzas
of poetry in praise of the flowers ;
and during the season, similar
tributes ASTitten on paper Mill be
seen hung up on the branches. A
few vlio ofE lies Miihiijinid, described
above.
Fahigairu. Susalci. T^uJciji.
139
The S.E. piirt of T6ky5, consist-
ing of the district of Fukagawa
on the 1. bank of the Suiaidii-gawa,
is a maze of narro\\' streets, chietly
inhabited by the lower trading and
artisan classes, and offers little for
the sightseer.
Joshinji, though the chief temple
of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is
quite iini)reteutious ; IjTit there are
some good carvings on the gates of
the priests' dwellings which line
the narrow street leachng np to it.
In the conrt-yard is a large l)ronze
image of Shaka supported on the
shoulders of stone demons ; and at
the back, l)eyond the cemeterj', a
curious superstitious practice may
be witnessed at the shrine of
Shogyo Bosatsu. The stone figure
of the saint stands in a little wooden
shed hung round with small reg-
ularly cut bundles of straw. The
faithful buy these at the gate, dip
them in water, brush the image
«ith them, and then ladle water
over its head, believing that this
ceremony will ensure a favourable
reply to their petitions. The image
is constantly wet, showing how tlrm
the belief is. The priests of the
sect seem unable to acccnint for the
origin of the usage.
The Buddhist tempL- commoidy
known as Fnlcai/mrK uo Ftuld, in
Tomioka Monzen-cho, is subsidiary
to the great shrine at Narita ; and
in imitation of the latter the
grcmnds are laid out in rococo
style, with inscribed stone slabs
and numerous small bronze
statuettes. It presents a lively
appearance i>n the 1st, loth, and
'28th of each month.
The adjacent Shinto teuiplo oi
JLarliinmii, dating from A.D. ICiSS,
shows traces of former Buddliist
influence. The walls and ceiling
are decorated with paintings ot
birds and flowers, and there are
also some pretty wood-carvings.
The ornamentation of the chancc^l
is extremely rich, the ceiling being
panelled, and gold profusely em-
ployed. Doves fly about the
gi'ounds, as is usual in temples
sacred to Hachiman. They are
supposed to act as this god's mes-
sengers, — strange messengers from
the Crod of War !
Down to the bBgiuning of the pre.sent
reign, the god Fudo mentiouedin the last
paragraph but one was worshii^ped in the
building now exclusively dedicated to
Hachiman. "rure 8hinto" views, how-
ever, then led to the separation of the two
cults and to the "purilication " of the ori-
ginal edifice, the Buddhist congregation
having been forced to remove next door
and build for themselves.
The district sitiuited between the
temi>le of Hachiman and that of
Sitsaki-no-Benten is noted for its
trade in timber, the town being here
intersected l>y numerous canals
commtinicating with the river,
down which come the timl)er-laden
rafts from the inland provinces.
The temple of Susaki 7(o Beiifen
(Susaki being the name of the pro-
jecting point of land on which it is
situated) dates from the latter ])art
of the 17th century, at which time
the ground on which it was erected
I'.ad only recently been reclaimed.
The temple itself is uninteresting ;
l)ut on a clear day there is a gooii
view from the embankment built
after the ra\ages of the inundations
and tidal waves of the eighth
decade of the IHth century. At
lo^^' tide, ^hich the Japanese con-
sider the prettiest tuue, and
especially if the season be spring,
numerous jileasure boats, with
singing-girls and other merry-
makers, will be seen lazily floating
about in the offing, watching the
oystev-catchers ply their trade.
H. — TSUKLJI.
On the way from the 8himl)ashi
terminus to the former Foreig-n
Concession in Tsukiji, several
imi)ortant modern buildings are
l)assed : — 1. the Fifteenth Bank, r.
the Inqierial Dei>artment of Com-
munications, and further on the
Department of Agriculture and
Commerce (Xoshoinushd), a huge
140
Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo.
"building, one "wing of whicli is
occupied by a small but interesting
Commercial Museum, open from 9
to 3 in summer, and 10 to 3 in
winter. Near by stands the Kabuki-
za, one of the best theatres in the
metropolis. The Naval Academy is
seen to the r. beyond the canal.
Still further to the r. is the Shiha
Bikyu, formerly the summer palace
of the Shoguns, and more recently
a place of entertainment for il-
lustrious Tisitors. It is also \ised
once a year for an Imperial Garden
party, at the season when the
masses of double cherry-flowers are
in bloom. The Shiba Eikyu is
unfortunately not open to the
general public.
To the 1. is the enclosure of the
Nishi Hongvcanji, popularly called
the Tsukiji Monzeki, a huge temple
belonging to the rich and powerful
Monto sect. It has fi-equently been
burnt down, last of all in 18'J7,
but is now rebuilding.
A large proportion of the build-
ings in the Foreign Concession is
devoted to rehgious and education-
al purposes, testifying to the zeal
of the various missionary bodies,
whose members form the bullc of the
population. The most conspicuous
places of worshif) are the Cathedral
of the Protestant Episcopal Church
of iVmerica and the Roman
Catholic Cathedral. Another striking
building is the Hotel Jletropole,
situated on the Bund facing the
Sumida-gawa near its mouth. Be-
yond the river lies Ishikaica-jima,
where stands a large Convict
Prison. The land is gaining
rapidly on the water in this
district, the whole spit opposite
the Blind having been reclaimed
within the last five-and-twenty
years. On a fine breezy day, the
vessels sailing into the river mouth
add picturesque animation to the
scene.
EOUTE 5.
Excursions pkom Tokyo.
1. meguko and kithon-butstj. 2.
ikegami and haneda. 3. ftjtago
AND MAEIKO. 4. jtJNISO, HOEI-NO-
tjchi, and i-no-kashira. 5. ccr-
moeant-fishing on the tama-
g.4.wa. 6. koganei. 7. takao-zan.
8. mitake. 9. oji. 10. the caves
neab konosu. 11. naeita. 12.
ascent of tsukuba-san.
1. Meguko and Ktjhon-butsu.
Meguro (Tea-houses, * Uchida,
Hashiwa-ya ; there are several
others, but they are apt to be
noisy) is a native picnic resort,
3 m. out of the city westwards by
road or Suburban Railway ; but the
station is about a mile from the
village. Shortly after leaving the
station at the top of a descent call-
ed Gyonin-zaka, one sees 1. the
small temple of Daienji, which
deserves passing notice for the sake
of the Oo-hyaku Bakan, — tier upon
tier of small seated Buddhist
images in various attitudes of
meditation, quaint yet pathetic in
their stony stillness. Meguro is
seen to best advantage when either
the peonies or the chrysanthemums
are in blossom. There are two
permanent sights, — the Temple of
Fudo, and the gi-aves of Gompachi
and Komurasaki. The key to the
latter is kept at the Kado-Ise tea-
house at r. corner of the turning
which leads to the temple. The
grave is called Hiyoku-zuka, after
the hiyoku, a fabulous double bird
which is revered as the emblem of
constancy in love. It may be added
that sentiment is the only motive
for visiting the gi'ave, as there is
really nothing to see.
About 260 years ago, there lived a
young man called Shirai Gompachi, who
at the age of sixteen had already won a
name for his skill in the use of arms, but,
having had the misfortune to kill a fellow-
clan.^ man in a quarrel over a dog, was
-~^ V 7'
C jy^afibajAi
F .AiyuitA</
K ^o/ifftf
R 7^uii//
S iMp/. /'ti/t/rr
T SttJft/it
Meguro. Kuhon-butsu. Ikegami.
141
compelled to fly from bis native province.
While resting at an inn on his way to
Tedo, a beautiful girl named Komurasaki
came and awoke him at midnight, to tell
him that a band of robbers, who had
stolen her from her home, intended to
kill him for the sake of the sword which
every samurai at that time carried.
Being thus forewarned, Gompachi
succeeded in slaying the thieves when the
attack was made upon him. He also
restored the girl to her grateful father, a
rich merchant, who would have been glad
to make the young man his son-iu-law ;
but being ambitious, Gompachi insisted on
pursuing his way to Yedo. Meanwhile,
unhajapy Komurasaki was left to pine for
the handsome youth with whom she had
fallen deeply in love. After further
adventures. Gompachi reached Yedo, only
however to fall into dissolute habits.
Hearing much praise of a lovely and ac-
complished girl who had lately become
an inmate of the Yoshiwara, Gompachi
went to see her, anil was astonished to
find in the famous beavity no other than
the maiden whom he had but a few
months before rescued from the robbers'
den. It was the usual pathetic story.
Her parents having become poverty-
stricken, she had sold herself in order to
alleviate their distress. Frequent visits
to his sweetheart soon exhausted Gom-
pachi's slender means, and having no
fixed employment, he was driven in des-
peration to murder a man for the sake of
money to spend at the Yoshiwara. The
crime was repeated, until he was caught
red-handed, and ultimately beheaded as
a common malefactor. A friend claimed
the body and buried it at Meguro, whither
poor Komurasaki hastened on hearing the
sad news of her lover's end, and throwing
herself on the newly-made grave, plunged
a dagger into her bosom aud died.
At the bottom of the steps lead-
ing lip to the temjile of Fudo, is a
pool fed by two tiny cascades. To
stand naked imder the stream of
water for several hours in cold
weather is considered a meritorious
penance, the efEect of which is to
wash away all taint of sin. Tradi-
tion says that Jikaku Daishi, the
foiander of this temple, miraculous-
ly called the spring into existence
by the aid of his mace (tokko),
whence the name of Tokko-no-iaki,
or Mace Cascade. The most re-
markable of the ex-votos is a huge
sword, such as the god Fudo is
often represented with.
(To prevent mistakes, it may here
be noted that J ri from Meg^uro
proper, and nearer Tokyo, lies an-
other village called Knmi-Meguro.)
Kuhon-butsu. These temples,
containing the nine large and hand-
somely gilt images of Buddha fi'om
which the place derives its name,
are situated in the vicinity of
Meguro. The direct way is along
the main road to Futago, — J hr.
ride from the Meguro railway
station, — thence for 15 min. by
]5ath 1. across the fields, which
finally emerges on an avenue lead-
ing to the temple buildings, charm-
ingly situated amongst finely wood-
ed surroundings. Kuhon-butsu be-
longs to the Jodo sect of Biiddhists.
In the upper storey of the massive
gateway repose a number of gilt,
but sadly neglected, images of
Kwannon. The main hall stands
in the centre of the grounds, and
faces the three shrines in each of
which are three images, — excellent
specimens of the sculptor's art, and
all in a good state of preservation.
2. — Ikeoami. Haneda-no-Inaei.
_ Ikegami is reached by train to
Omori station on the Yokohama
line in ^ hr., whence it is about 1 m.
by jinnkisha. The great temple
of Hommonji (see p. 42 for plan) is
celebrated as the spot where the
Buddhist saint Nichiren died in
A.D. 1282. Its tine situation and
magnificent timber make it one of
the most attractive points within
easy reach of Tokyd. The best
time to visit it is on the 12th — 13th
October, when the annual festival
in Nichiren' s honour takes place.
On this occasion over 20,000 per-
sons make the pilgrimage. An-
other festival is held from the 22nd
to 28th April. At the top of the
temple steps is 1. the Daiinoku-do,
where some of the faithful are gen-
erally to be heard beating the drum
and reciting the formulary of the
sect, — " Nariiu Mydho JRenge Kyo."
Next to this is a shrine dedicated
to Kato Kiyomasa. Then comes
the 8haka-dd, or HaU of Shaka,
142
Route 5. — Excursions from Tohvo.
where worshippers pass the night
at the time of the annual festival,
with, behind it, another bnilding
containing a complete set of the
Bnddhist scriptures that may be
made to revolve on a huge
hexagonal wheel. Fronting the gate
is the Soslii-flo, or Founder's Hall,
dedicated to Nichiren, the restora-
tion of which in handsome style
evinces the popularity which this
sect enjoys. On the altar stands
an exquisitely lacqiiered shrine,
containing a life-size image of
Nichiren in sitting ix)sture, sfiid
to have been carved by Nichiro,
one of his chief disciples. The
upper part of the wall is decorated
Avith pictures of angels playing on
musical instruments. Behind the
altar, outside the temple, is a
pictorial representation of the chief
incidents in the saint's life. The
extensive buildings at the rear are
the residences of the abbot and
monks. Although Nichiren died at
Ikegami, his bones were conveyed
to Minobii ; all that remain here
are one tooth and the ashes of his
funeral pyre. The shrine {Koisu-do)
containing these relics is a short
way down the hill to the 1., in a
line viith the Priests" Apartments.
This building, about '20 ft. in
diameter, is of the shape of an
Imhan stupa reposiug on a huge
lotus-tlower of stone. A gilt shrine
of the same form as the building
itself stands inside on a table
formed of a lotus-flower canied by
eight green tortoises, and inside
this again is a crystal jar A\ith the
relics. The interior, though not
accessiljle, may be fairly well seen
through the wire grating of the
A^dndows. At the top of the small
hill immediately above the Kotsu-
do, stands a stone monument
marking the original burial-place
of the saint (A'o.s-o Mi-tmnaya).
Below the Kotsu-do, down a few
steps, there are three shrines, the
smallest of which {Daiho), much
A'isited by pilgrims, f)ccupies the
site of the house in which Nichiren
died. Ifere is ^hown a tiny image
which he is said to have carved A\ith
the aid of a mirror on the day
preceding his death ; also the pillar
against which he leant during his
last moments.
One may picnic either sit the iea-
Itouse (Tamba-ya) in the village, or
(but in this case notice must be
sent the day before, as the matter
is more or less one of favour) at
Eijuin, a temple in the wood behind
the pagoda, having beautiful plum-
trees and peonies, besides a fine
A-ieM-. The imposing-looking tomb
in the temple garden is that of a
Daimyo's wife. A third place, im-
mediately below the pagoda, is the
immense tea-house of Akebono-ro,
popularly known as Ikeijami Otisen.
It is quite a curiosity, sprawling as
it does up and down two hills by
means of galleries and bridges,
which remind the beholder of
scenes in Chinese art. This tea-
house is a favourite native holiday
resort.
In this neighbourhood, aboTit 2
ri S. E. of Omori station, near the
mouth of the Tamagawa, stands
the shrine of Haneda-no-Inari,
— quite small, but curious ov.ing
to the thousands of torii in the
grounds. The two cMef festivals
are on the " Middle Day of the
Horse" (Naka-nu-uma) in March
and September. Visitors to the
temple nnght rest at the Kaname-
kwan or Haneda-kwan iea-house,
where there are jets of natural gas
and cold mineral spring.
3. FUTAGO AND MaEIKO.
Futago (111 II, Kame-ya) stands
on the banks of the Tamagawa, 2 J ri
by jinrikisha ft-om Tokyo. Just
before reaching the river, there is
a striking view of Fuji with a pano-
rama f)f the surroumhng country.
During the summer months, the
Japanese visit Futago for the sake
of the sport — if sjiort it can be
termetl — of watching tishermen net
Jini ISO. Hori-no-uclii. l-iKj-Las/u'ra.
US
the (iL ii kind of trout. One ri
d( )wu the river from Futago lies
Mariko (Imi., Wakamatsu-ya, on
the Tokyo side), a place of similar
liharacter. The distance by the
direct jiiirildsha road from Mariko
to Tokyo is 2 ri 30 cho. An alter-
native way of returning to Tokyo
is to take boat down the river to
Kawasaki station, which is abont
2 hrs. from Ftitago. It is quite a
pretty walk from Mariko to Ike-
gami, mostly by the side of a
stream, 1 rl.
4. ^-JfTNISO, HOBI-NO-TJCHI AND
I-NO-KASHIRA.
Juaiso. Train to Shinjiku sta-
tion on the Siibiirban Line, or jin-
rildsha all the way. Crossing the
railway, the extensive buildings
seen on the 1. are those of the new
water-works for the supply of
Tokyo, whence, proceeding along
the Ome Kaido for 10 min., the
path to Juniso turns 1. through the
fields, and in 10 min. more a short
avenue of pines is reached, leading
to the small and deserted temple
of Jiiniso Gongen. Below the
temple lies a small lake, plentifully
stocked with a species of carp.
Several tea-sheds stand at the
upper end. Juniso is a favourite
spot for pleasiire parties during the
summer months.
Hori-no-uchi may be reached
in I hr. from Juniso. A lane
directly behind the tea-sheds soon
rejoins the Ome Kaidd, along
which we proceed for \ hr., to leave
it again by a path 1., at the corner
of which is a pretty plum orchard.
A short distance beyond, the path
turns r., where a stone inthcates
the distance to Hori-no-uchi as 1(5
(li.o. From here stretches an avenue
of double cherry-trees lined with
shops for the sale of rosaries, salted
plums, toys, etc. The temple of
Myohoji at Hori-no-uchi, belonging
to the Nichiren sect, merits a visit
for the sake of the excellent
carvings that adorn the main
building, — those of dragons in the
porch, below the architrave, and in
the eaves being especially spirited.
The iron gates and railing to the r.
of the main entrance are good
specimens of modern worlcman-
ship. On the 1. of the court, is a
long shed tilled with a curious
collection of ex-votos, such as the
queues of men whose prayers have
been gi'anted by the interposition
of Nichiren, oil-paintings, etc. In
the main hall, a splendid shrine 5
ft. square and 10 ft. long, covered
with gilt carvings, occupies the
centre of the further side of the
chancel. It contains a seated
image of Nichiren, said to be the
earliest efKgy of that saint, and to
have been carved in A.D. 12G1. It
can be seen and a short service in
its honour witnessed, on payment
of a small fee. The principal
festival is held on the 13th Octo-
ber, the anniversary of Nichiren's
death. A polite request wll gener-
ally gain permission to visit the
pretty landscape garden attached
to the main temple.
Half a rl further on, the once
noted temple of Omiya Hachiman
stands mouldering and deserted.
A stately avenue of cryptomerias
and maple-trees, together with
several toril, attests its former im-
portance.
Proceeding through the flat
fields for 3.1m. further, vro reach
the Temple of Bpnicn, situated on
the borders of the Uttle lake of
I-no-kashira, w-hose waters, de-
rived fi'om seven small springs,
supply the aqueduct leading to
Kanda in Tokyo.
History says that iu 1000 the lake was
visited by leyasu, who foiiiul the water
so excelleut that it was used ever after
for making His Highness's tea. In 163;»
his grandson, the Shogim lemitsu, gave
orders for the water to be laid on to the
Castle in Yedo. He also, on the occasion
of a visit to the lake, carved with the
small knife from his dirk the head of a
wild boar {i-no-l;ashira) on the trunk of a
tree close by, whence the present name.
I-no-kashira attracts visitors
144
Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo.
chiefly in Apiil for the cheiTy-
blossoms, and in May for the
azaleas. The return may be made
from Kichijoji station, which is
only 2 cho from I-no-kashira, and i-
hr. fi'om Shinjikn.
5. — CoRMOKANT-FlSHIXG ON THE
Tamagawa.
This curious method of catching
fish may be seen at Hlno, a Till,
on the TamagaM'a. This place is
reached by train from Tol^yo (Shin-
jiku station, see next column) in
a httle over 1 hr., whence 8 chd by
jinriMsha to the Tamagaica-tei tea-
house where the cormorants are
kept, and 2 cho further to the river.
The charge for three fishermen
and a servant is 2 yen ; a covered
boat (yane-bune) costs 1 yen extra.
The sport lasts fi'om the middle of
May to the end of September, being
conveniently carried on during the
daytime, — not at night, as at the
better known cormorant fishery
of Gifu on the Tokaido. The
fishermen wade about in the
water, holding the ungainly bu'ds
by strings, and reUeving them of
their prey, wliich is then handed
over to the servant. A fan- quantity
of small trout (ai) may generally
be reckoned on, and can be cooked
at the tea-house if desired.
6.— KOGANEI.
Koganei, with a fine avenue
of cherry-trees 2<} m. in length
along the banks of the smaU canal
that conducts the waters of the
Tamagawa to Tokyo, only deserves
a visit when the trees are in blos-
som. It is reached by train to
Sakai on the Hachioji hne, J hr.
from Shinjiku Junction, and 20
min. distant from the avenue.
Ten thousand young trees were brought
from Yoshino in Yaniato, — the most
famous place for cherry-trees in Japan, —
and from the banks of the Sakura-gawa in
Hitachi, and planted here in 1735 by com-
mand of the Shogun Yoshimune.
The crowds that assemble daily to
revel under the shade of the pink
and white blossoms about the mid-
dle of April, present a gay spectacle.
Instead of returning to Sakai, it
will be found shorter to walk on to
Kokubiinji station, about 20 min.
from the upper end of the avenue.
7. — -By the K5bu Kailwat
TO Takao-zan.
S 3
§gd
Names
^S'a
of
Remarks
.2 <W *^
Stations
SHINJIKU Jet.
J m.
Okubo
3
Nakano
5 J
Ogikubo
7 i
Kichijoji
For I-no-kashi-
ra.
10
Sakai
For Koganei.
13
Kokubunji Jet. . .
17
Tachikawa Jet. . .
For Tamagawa
Valley, Rte.27.
19
Hino
23
HACHIOJI.
This is a favourite exciu'sion in
spring and aiitumn ■with holiday-
makers from Tokyo. The railway
journey to Hachioji occupies 1^ hr.,
whence it is 2 ri along the jilain to
the foot of Takao-zan. JinriMshas
or basha traverse this distance in
1 hr.
The railway, on lea^'ing Shinjiku,
leads for a short distance close to
the Florists' Gardens of Okubo,
noted for their azaleas, the rest of
the route passing mostly over a
flat country, with heavy, clayey
soil. The Tamagawa and one of
its afliuents are crossed before
reaching
Hachioji {Lin, Kado-ya), the
centre of an important silk district,
but otherwise uninteresting. A
short distance beyond the vill. of
Komagino, the path leading up
Takao-zan turns oflE r. from the
main road, and crosses the
stream, from which point to the
temple buildings is a walk of about
Ihr.
Takao-zan. Mitake. Oji.
145
Takao-zan is a hill rising some
1,600 n. above the sea. On the
summit stands a much fi-equent-
ed temple, surrounded by a splen-
did grove, chiefly of cryptomerias,
planted by Buddhist devotees.
The road is lined \\-ith posts on
which are recorded the names of
persons who have presented young
trees, so many hundreds at a time,
with the object of maintaining the
grove undiminished. On the plat-
form at the top of the ascent stands
a fine bronze pagoda, 12 ft. in height.
Above this, on another terrace, are
three shrines dedicated to Fudo,
Yakushi, and Dainichi ; and at the
top of a long flight of steps is a
gaudily decorated Shinto shrine
with painted carvings. ITie annual
festival takes place on the 21st
April. Trees shut out the view
from this point ; but lower down a
space has been cleared, from which
the eye ranges over the plain of
Tokyo and the sea in the distance.
A narrower and steeper path than
that ascended may be taken on
the way down, which affords pretty
glimpses of the densely wooded
valley.
8. MlTAKE.
Mitake is a sacred peak, easUy
reached from Tokyo in_one day
by taking train to Ome (see
Eoute 27). There are_two ways of
proceeding on from Ome, viz., the
M'main Kaido, or "Sunny Boad"
on the 1. bank of the Tamagawa,
and the Hilcage Kaido. or "Shady
Eoad," on the r. bank. It is possi-
ble to go the whole way in jinriM-
sha with three men by either of
these. The distance is estimated
at 4 ri. The -sill, of Mitake possess-
es no inns ; but accommodation
can be had at the houses of the
priests, who, though not making any
charge, should be diily remunerat-
ed. The priesthood here has for
ages been hereditary in a few fa-
mihes, who intermarry almost ex-
clusively among each other. The
Main Temple, just above the A-ilL,
is sacred to the Shinto deities
Onamuji, Kushimachi, Sukuna-
bikona, and Ukemochi-no-kami,
the divine j)rotectress of silkworms.
The Oku-no-in, 18 cho distant, is
dedicated to Yamato-take.
Grand timber and a profusion of
flowering shrubs clothe the steep
sides of all this maze of hills. The
best expedition at Mitake, occupy-
ing half a day, is to the waterfalls
of Kanm/o-taki, thence up Odake,
a high peak at a considerable dis-
tance, and back over the Oku-no-in
to the village. T)ais walk may be
curtailed by omitting Odake.
The return to Ome may be va-
ried by taking the hill path over to
Unazawa on the Tamagawa, a walk
of IJ hr., almost entirely under
shade, and yet aifording i^rettily
diversified views, whence 14 miles
down_ the valley by the main road
into Ome.
9.— Oji.
The viih of Oji, long a favourite
retreat in the suburbs of Tokyo,
now presents more the aspect of a
manufacturing centre than of a
holiday resort. Huge brick build-
ings, paper and cotton mills, the
clash of machinery, and lofty chim-
neys from which columns of smoke
sweep over the cherry-trees on
Asuka-yama, depiive the place of
much of its former tranquillity
and beauty. Oji, nevertheless, stiU
remains one of the attractions in
the environs of the great city ; and
crowds flock thitlier t'W'ice yearly, —
in spring when the cherry-trees are
in blossom, and in autumn when
the maples lining the banlcs of the
little stream called Takino-mwa
put on their crimson tints.
The train from Ueno station
lands one in a few minutes close to
the noted iea-hoiises, Ogi-ya and
Ebi-ya, which stand together on
the edge of the water, and look out
on a small but tastefully arranged
garden. Half a mile bej^ond the
146
Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo.
tea-houses, iu a grove of evergreen
oaks on the top of a sUght emi-
nence, stands the Temple of Luiri,
consisting of two rather dilapidat-
ed bnildings. In the coiirt-yard
are some line old cherry-trees.
The temple and httle waterfall
dethcated to Fndo, also in the
vicinity of the tea-houses, attract
many "sisitors. As the trains are
generally full to overflowing during
the cherry and maple seasons,
some -visitors may prefer to go out
by road. The prettiest way, 5 m.,
leaves the httle lake at Ueno, and
passing through the suburb of
yhinio Komagome, turns to the r.
on reaching the tomb of the Dai-
myo of Kaga, descends the hill,
and follows up the valley to the 1.
lU. — The Caves (Hyaka Aiui) neab
Koxosu.
These interesting artificial Caves
are situated at Kita Yoshimi-mura
in the prefecture of Saitama, and
are witlun the limits of a short day's
exciirsion fi'om Tokyo. Konosu
is reached in 1^ hr. by train from
Ueno station. The jinriMsha road
to Kita Yoshimi-mura, '2J ri distant,
crosses the railway line not far
from the station, and runs over
the plain straight towards the
Chichibu mountains. Kita Yoshi-
mi-mura nestles under the first hill
met Avith on the road. At the fur-
ther end of the village, the path to
the caves turns ofE r. On the way,
a (juaint old temple of Kivannon is
seen, wedged in between rocks, from
the inner side of which an entrance
leads to a chamber containing a
number of stone images of Kwan-
non. A few yards beyond stands
the office of the local authorities,
by whom the caves, which he close
by, are now maintained. The
whole hillside, a greyish tufaceous
sandstone, is honeycombed with
these reHcs of a remote antiqiuty,
^hose origin and use have given
rise to controversy amongst the
learned.
Mr. Aston, the liioneer iu Japauese ar-
cliieological research, declares that there
is good reason to believe that the caves
were primarily intended for sepulchres,
although some were doubtless used as
shelters by beggars and outlaws at a
later period ; while Dr. Tsuboi, of the
Imperial University of Tokyo, an energe-
tic worker iu the same tield, and the dis-
coverer of most (if the caves at Yoshimi-
mura, maintains that they were the habita-
tions of the beings whom the Japa-
nese term "earth-spiders." The original
Japaue.se word is tswhi-gumo. There is
considerable doubt as to its etymology,
though every one agrees in interpreting it
to denote a race of cave-dwelling savages.
Motoori, the greatest of all Japanese
literati, explains the name by a com-
parison of the habits of the race in ques-
tion with those of the spider. But it is
surely more rational to regard the word
tSKChi-guiHo as a eomiption of tsuchi-go-
rtiori. " ea-rth-hiderx," than which no name
could be more appropriate to troglodytes.
These people, who were widely spread
over Jajjan in prehistoric times, were
probably the ancestors of the modem
Ainos. One of the earliest Japanese his-
tories describes them as ' ' short in stature,
and having long arms and legs like
pigmies." Jimmu Tenno is said to havf^
massacred a number of them iu one of
their cave-dwellings. — Although the chief
authority on such matters, Mr. Willian
Gowland, in his elaborate monograph on
the "Dolmens and Burial .Mounds in
Japan," does not mention this particular
locality, which was only discovered after
his departure from Japan, a careful perusal
of hi.s work leaves no room for doubt that
Mr. Aston was right in regarding them,
not as dwellings but as burial places, a-
greeing, as they do, iu so many respects
with the dolmens widely scattered over
Japan south of latitude 37'^.
The caves, most of which face
due S., are believed to number two
hundred and thirty-seven in all.
The entrances are about 3 ft.
square ; then comes a passage of (5
ft. and iipwards in length, leading
to a second doorway within which
are the chambers. These are of
various sizes, many being 6 ft.
square, and from 5 to 6 ft. high.
The ceilings are dome-shaped.
Each chamber contains one or two
ledges having slightly raised
borders. Traces of the use of tools
are visible on the walls. Iron
rings, arrow-heads, etc., have been
found in some of the caves ; but
the presence of these is doubtless
The Temple of Narita.
147
ilue to the fact, as local tradition
asserts, that parties of fighting men
took refuge here in more modem
times. The hill affords an extensive
view of the adjacent mountains,
including Buk5-zan in the Chichibu
range, Fuji, and Asama-yama. The
town of Matsuyama (Inn, K6ji-ya)
lies only V-i cho ofp. It contains a
large Shinto temple to the gods of
Inari, called the Yakyii Innri.
10. — The Temple op Naeita.
Shedje of Sakxtba Sogoeo. Kadoei.
A visit to the famous shrine of
the god Fudo at Narita is recom-
mended to those who would see
Buddhism still a power in the land,
alive and flourishing in the soil of
popular piety. The wood-carvings,
too, that adorn some of the build-
ings are excellent specimens of
modern art. Trains run from
Tokyo (Honjo station) in 2^ hrs. (see
Route 21). The village clustering
at the base of the low hill on which
the temple stands, possesses a large
number of inns. The Wakamatsu-
ya and Ebi-ya are the best.
The full name of this holy place is
Narita-san Shingo Shinshoji, i.e. "the
Divinely Protected Temple of Beeent Vic-
tory on Mount Narita." The story of its
origin is as follows : —
At the time of the foundation of the
Buddhist faith, an Indian sculptor named
Bishukatsuma carved a wonder worldng
image of the god Fudo (see p. 48), which
image, after the lapse of many centuries,
was sent to China, where it passed into
the hands of a holy priest named Keikwa
Ajari. When the great Japanese saint,
Kobo Daishi. visited China in A.D. 804,
to seek instruction in Buddhist mysteries,
this priest it was who became his teacher:
and when teacher and disciple were about
to part, each was warned in a dream
that the miraculous image was destined
for Japan, and accordingly Kobo Daishi
brought it home with him and enshrined
it in a temple on Takao-zan near
Kyoto, together with attendant flgures of
Seitaka Doji and Kongara Doji which he
carved with his own hand. iSow it hap-
pened that about a century and a half
later, a revolution broke out. Masakado,
a courtier of high birth, taking ofieuce
at the refusal to appoint him on the staff
of an embassy about to start for China,
rebelled against the legitimate sovereign
Shujaku Tenno. Retiring to his native
province of Shimosa, he sacrilegiously
assumed the title of Mikado, bnilt liini-
self a capital in which the place-names
round about Kyoto were plagiarised,
established a mimic Court, and havin"-
made himself master of several provinces
in Eastern Japan, prejjared to march
upon Kyoto. The legitimate Mikado,
thereupon, not content with despatchinc^
against the rebel such valiant loval wai^
riors as Fujiwara-no-Tadabumi, faira-no-
Sadamori, and Tawara Toda Hidesato,
applied to the priests for supernatuiai
assistance. It was found that no god was
so powerful as Fudo, and no image of
him so miraculous as that which K6b5
Daishi had brought over. Accordingly
Kwancho Daisqjo, a celebrated abbot
of those days, who was also a scion
of the Imperial family, was com-
missioned to carry the image to the seat
of war and exorcise the enemy. The
abbot _ embarked at Naniwa (now the
city of Osaka), and soon landed on the
coast of Eastern Japan, whence he pro-
ceeded inland, and, having set up the
miraculous image on a rock near the
rebel's capital, performed before it for
three weeks the Goma ceremony, that is
prayers and incantations recited while a
Are is kept burning on the altar. The
result was the total defeat and death of
Masakado in the year 940, the triumph
of the loyalists, and preparations on
the part of the abbot to return home
when lo and behold ! the image waxed
heavy as a rock, and utterly refused to
move ! As usual, a dream served to ex-
plam matters. The god Fudo appeared
and declared his intention of remaining
where he was, to bless and civilise East-
ern Japan. Accordingly the grateful
Mikado granted fund.s for the construc-
tion of a temple on a grand scale : and as
local circumstances forbade remaining on
the exact spot where the image had at
first been set up, lots were drawn by
thirty-three villages in the surrounding
<ouutry-side, and the lot feU on Narita"
Time brought further changes, and the
present site— the hill known as Myo-
ken-zan— was built on only in 1704. Pro-
bably the great popularity of the Narita
.-shrine dates from about that period. In
any case, the then recent founding of the
new capital, Yedo, in the near neighbour-
hood had furnished it with a lar^e
number of potential pilgrims : and for
some reason otherwise inexplicable, actors
and other public entertainers, who flourish
most in groat cities, have long been its
most ardent votaries. Many repairs and
additions have been made during the
present century, the gi-eat Ni-o gate datins
from 1831, and the MidO from 1856. Of
the many relics preserved in the treasure-
house of Narita, the_ most highly valued
is the Ama/cicni iin Iwken, a .sword said to
148
Route 5. — Excursions from. Tokyo.
have been forged by A-uiakuni, the first
of all Japanese smiths, for the Emperor
Mommu (A.D. 683—697). who prized it
equally with his crown regalia After
the suppression of Masakado's rebellion,
this sword was presented to the god Fudo
by the then Emperor Shu.iaku, in grate-
ful acknowledgment of that deity's assis-
tance. One touch of it is VjeUeved to cure
insane iiersons and those possessed of
foxes. It would seem, however, to be
now never shown. A festival takes place
on the 2Sth of each month, April and
May being the most crowded.
The temple stands on the side of
a Mil in a line gi-ove of cryptomeri-
as and otlier trees. It is approacli-
ed from the inns by a paved avenue
lined with stone lanterns. To the
r. of the Tamagakl (stone wall), is
a well where pilgrims perform the
ceremony of washing ■s\-ith cold
water. Close by is the Danjiki-do,
■whither devotees retire to fast
during a whole week, the only
refi-eshment permitted to them
being the use of the cold bath. For-
merly the period was three weeks.
Tradition says that this practice was
instituted about the middle of the 16th
century by the saint Doyo, who passed
a hundred days in religious exercises.
At last his prayers were answered by a
vision of the god, who offered him the
choice of a sharp or a blunt sword to
swallow. The saint chose the sharp one,
which the god thrust down his throat,
causing the blood to llow freely. On
awakening he found his intellectual
powers immensely increased, and felt no
traces of the wound. Nevertheless,
priests' robes dyed with the blood spilt on
this occasion are preserved am.0Lig the
treasures of the temple.
In a building to the r. of the Dan-
jiki-do, worshipijers may often be
seen seated in a circle, handing
round one to another a huge rosary
to which a bunch of horse-hair is
attached, and chanting the invoca-
tion " JVamu Amida Butsu." Oppo-
site is the Onna Danjiki-do, reserved
for females. Both buildings have
ex-votos over the entrance.
To the 1. of the TamagaM, a
shrine called the Daishi-do dedicated
to Kobo Daishi, contains an image
of that saint, besides tine carvings
of dragons. The other buildings are
residences of the priests.
The Ni-o-mon at the top of the
first flight of steps is a massive
structure of keyaki wood, orna-
mented with carvings by Got5
Kisaburo. Under the architrave
are eight groups representing Chi-
nese children at play, and sages,
probably intended for the " Seven
Sages of the Bamboo Grove," whose
recreations are chess, music, draw-
ing, and calligraphy. At the r. end
are groups of young cock-fighters,
and the child delivered from the
tall water-jar by his sharp-witted
companion Shiba Onko, who breaks
a hole in it with a stone to let the
water escape. In front r. is a sage
■«Titing an inscription, 1. another
plajing on the harp. On the 1.
side are children at play, and a
group the central figure of which
dances to the music of flageolet and
dnun. At the back are groups of
checker-players and of sages in-
specting a picture. Close to the r.
of the Ni-o-mon stands a hand-
some granite beacon erected in
1894, and decorated with the names
of the donors in lettering of bright
red, — the colour of Fudo's flames.
Notice also the huge sword meant
to scare away evil-doers.
On either side of the steps lead-
ing up from this gate to the Hondo,
or Main Temple, the prettily ar-
ranged rockwork crowded ^\ith
bronze and stone figures has a pe-
culiarly bizaiTe but not unpleasing
effect.
As one approaches the Hondo,
the first thing that strikes the eye
is the huge receptacle for money-
offerings. Above it is a large panel
^vith carvings of phoenixes gor-
geously coloui-ed, and on the r. and
1. of this are coloured panels of
peacocks, also in rehef. This is
the only colouring about the build-
ing, the rest of the exterior being
of unpainted keyaki wood. The
sides and the back are decorated
with eight splendid panels, each
9 ft. by 4 ft., representing groups
of the Go-hyaku Rakan in low rehef,
with an immense variety of incident
Narita. Sakura Sdgoro. Kadori.
149
and portraiture. They were carved
by Matsumoto Eydsan. On the
huge doors that close the sliding
windows of this part of the build-
ing, are beautiful carvings of the
Twenty-four Paragons of Fihal
Kety, each panel (2J ft. by 2 ft.)
• containing twosubjects by Shima-
mura Shumbyo. The dragon and
angels on the ceiling, and the bold
sketches of the Ju-roku Eakan be-
hind the main altar are by Kano
Kazunobu, a painter of the present
century.
In the Naijin, or Holy of Hohes,
is the sacred black image of Fudo
(often called Dainichi, with whom,
as mentioned on p. 46, Fudo is
identified), hardly visible in the
dim hght. Among the rockery
behind are thirty-six small bronze
figures ; in the centre at the top is
Fudo in a cave, and higher up on
the r. the saint En-no-Shokaku.
The grotesque figures popularly
called Baira-botchi in the gables,
which bear the ends of the ridge-
pole, are excellent expressions of
the effort to support a heavy bur-
den. Round the building, under
the architrave, are groups of fabu-
lous animals.
The three-storied Pagoda is a
beautiful exami^le of this architec-
tural form, finely decorated and
painted. The black groups on the
four sides represent the Sixteen
Rakan, the work of Shimamura
Entetsu. The bell-tower opposite
is also well worth a few minutes'
attention. Close by on the r. is a
handsome hbrary (Kyddn), contain-
ing a highly decorated revolving
octagonal box borne on the
shoulders of parti-coloured demons.
Note the pecuHar coffered ceiling
painted ^ith kaleidoscopic pat-
terns. In tlie ex-voto Hall {Ema-
dd) to the 1. of the Library, are
pictures of Fudo helping sui>
phants ; also a huge rosary, the
string of which is a cable made of
human hair, and various other gifts.
The two large anchors thickly en-
crusted with barnacles were found
by fishermen near Shirahama, off
the coast of Boshu.
A flight of steps leads up to
another level where stands a large
red shrine called the Komyn-dd, or
Hall of Resplendent Light. The
other ex-voto shed 1. contains a
large variety of interesting offer-
ings, where charms and pictui^es of
all kinds may be purchased. The
grounds constantly present the
aspect of a fair.
If time permits, a visit may be
made to the small but noted shrine
of Sakura Sogoro at Kozu-mura, 15
cho W. of Narita by jinrikisha.
In the year 1644 a band of village elders,
headed by one Sogoro, proceeded to i'edo
to protest against the tyranny of the lord
of Sakura. Even to protest was in
those days a capital offence, acquiescence
in all the mandates of his superiors being
an inferior's sole and sufficient duty. Not
Sogoro only was put to death ; his wife
was crucified with him and theii- ttiree
children decapitated before their eyes.
One, a child of seven, was butchered as he
was eating the sweetmeats thrown to him
by the compassionate spectators. This
pathetic story is graphically told in Vol
U. of Mitford's Taks of Old Joipan.
The buildings are aU the outcome
of modern piety, plain and sub-
stantial, but adorned with carvings
of some merit. Charms bearing
the name of the martyred peasant
together with pictures of him and
his wife and children sell in large
numbers. Near by on the r. is
Sogoro's grave, where incense is
kept perpetually burning.
The Shinto Temple of Kadori,
famous but not specially interest-
ing, stands to the N. E. of Narita, 1
hr. distant by train. The name of
the nearest station is Sawara.
Numerous imis crowd the entrance
to the splendid giove of trees in
which the temple stands.
This temple is d-edicated to Futsn-naahi
or Iwa-nuahi, a deified wacrior o£ the
mythical period, whose symbol is aaword.
The date of its foundation is unknown,
but may be placed a good deal earlier
than the 6th century. The present
building was erected at the beginning of
the 17th century, and restored in A.D.
1700. It is said that, as late as the begin
150
Route 6. — Miyanoshila and Hakone.
ning of the 17th century, the waters of
the Tonegawa came right up to the base
of the hill on which the temple stands,
and that all the rice-fields between it
and Tsunomiya, about 3 m. distant, have
been reclaimed since that period.
11. — Ascent of Tstjktjba-san.
Tsukuba-san, a mountain 2,925
ft. liigli, situated 40 miles to the
N.N.E. of Tokyo, and forming even
at that distance a striking feature
of the landscape, is best reached by
taking train at Ueno Station for
Tsuchiura [Inn, Matsu-ya), on the
East Coast Railway (see Route 22),
whence 4 ri by jinrikisha via Hojo
to the foot of the mountain. Hence
to the ^ill. of Tsukuba is 1 hr. walk
gphill. It should be agreed upon
beforehand with the jinrikisha-men
that they must shoulder the luggage
and act as guides as far as the inn.
The name Tsukuba is said to be com-
posed of two Chinese words meaning
" built bank ; " and the legend is that
Izanagi and Izanami constructed the
mountain as a bulwark against the waves
of the Pacific Ocean, which they had
forced to retire to the other side of
Kashima, formerly an island in the sea.
This tradition is in accordance with the
fact, recently verified by geologists, that
the E. shores of Japan have been gradually
rising during many centuries past. One
legend says that Tsukuba is a fragment
of the sacred mountain in China called
Godai-san, which broke off and flew over
to Japan. This is supposed to account
for the peculiar plants found on it. But
the fact is that no botanical species occur
liere that are not also found on other
Japanese mountains, although the in-
habitants of the vicinity, noticing the
difference between the floras of the
mountain and the plain, might naturally
be led to attribute a miraculous origin to
the former.
Saturnalia used formerly to be held
here. The following is a translation of
an extremely ancient ode : —
Where many an eagle builds her nest.
On Tsukuba's mountain-crest.
There the men and maids foregather.
And this the song they sing together :
" I your mistress mean to woo !
You may take and love mine too !
For the gods that here do throne
Ne'er this ancient use disown :
So shut your eyes but for to-day,
-Ynd find no fault howe'er we play ! "
The cleanly little vill. of Tsiiku-
ba {Inn, *Edo-ya), lies about halt-
way up the mountain. Most of
the houses command a fine view of
the plain of T5kyo, stretching away
towards Fuji. The ascent begins
immediately after leaving the vill.,
the way passing through the
grounds of a temple. From this
point to the summit of the W.
peak, called Naniai-zaa (Male
Mountain), the distance is about
50 did. This is the usual ascent,
being less steep than the jsath up
the E. and lower peak, Nyotai-zan
(Female Mountain). The summit
is dotted with numerous shrines,
of which the largest is sacred to
Izanagi. Similarly, the temple on
Nyotai-zan is dedicated to his con-
sort Izanami. There is a magni-
ficent view of the T5ky6 plain, Fuji,
Asama-yama, and the Nikko range.
Pines and cryptomeiias cover the
mountain, and the rocks about
the summits are awkward to
scramble over, the assistance of an
iron chain being necessary in
some places. From the W. to the
E. peak is an interval of about ^ m.
The descent from the latter is 70
cho. It passes over and between
huge rocks, to which fanciful names
have been given, from their sup-
posed resemblance to portions of
the human body. The ascent and
descent occupy about 4 hrs.
ROUTE 6.
The Hakone Disteict : Miyano-
SHITA, HIaKONE.
1. genebal initokmation. 2. miya-
noshita and neighbotjehood.
3. hakone and neighbourhood.
1. — Genekaii Infoemation.
This route is specially recom-
mended, as uniting charm of
scenery, accessibility, and an un-
-V-fUJi AND THE
^HAKONE
f DISTRICT
f^^-
>. i Jd- \
Way to Miyanoshita.
151
usual degree of comfort. All
tourists arriving at Yokohama are
advised to devote a week to it, and
if they have not so much time at
their disposal, then to devote two
or three days to a portion of it.
Even should they be disinclined
for walking and sightseeing, they
will find no place more pleasant
for idling in at all seasons than
Miyanoshita. It offers another
advantage as a convenient starting-
point for the ascent of Fuji.
The word Hakone. it should be observed,
.though employed by us, aa by all Euro-
peans to deaoto the village called by the
Japanese Jlalonf-no-shuku, Hakone-no-ehi,
or llakone-machi, is properly the general
name of the entire mountainous district
lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu,
between the Bays of Odawara and Suruga.
For this reason the Japanese talk of
Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being " in
Hakone." The original name of Hakone
Lake (now, however, used only in poetry)
is Ashi-nn-Uiiii, that is, the Sea of Reeds.
(Compare the name of Aahi-no-yit, "the
Hot Water of the Beeds," which is really
deserved, as these springs issue from a
reedy marsh.) The lake measures, in
round numbei-s, 1^ ri long, 4j ri round,
and has a depth of 37 fathoms in its
deepest part.
The following are the heights of
the chief villages and mountains
mentioned in this route : — •
Ashinoyu 2,870 feet.
Futago-yama 3,630
Gora 2,300
Hakone 2,400
Kamiyama 4,790
Eintold-zan 4,040
Koma-ga-take 4,420
Kowaki-dani (Kojigoku) 2,100
Miyanoshita 1,400
Myojin-ga-take 3,880
Myojo-ga-take 3,080
Ojigoku 3,466
Otome-toge 3,333
Saijoji (D6ry5-san) 1,240
Ten Province Pass 3,2 IG
Yu-no-hana-zawa 3,100
2. — Miyanoshita and Neighboue-
HOOD.
Miyanoshita is easily reached
from Y^okohama by the Tokaido
Railway to Kozu station, 1^ hr. ;
thence by electric tram to Yumoto.
1 hr. ; thence by jinrikisha (at least
two men necessary) or on foot, for
1^ ri lip the valley of the Hayakawa
to Miyanoshita, nearly 1 hr. by
jiniildsha, 1\ hr. on foot, — say 4^
hrs. for the whole journey, includ-
ing stoppages. From Tokyo it is
1 hr. more, or 5| hrs. in all. The
total distance from Kozu to Yu-
moto is 10 m., and from Y''umoto
to Miyanoshita, 4 miles.
At Kozu [Inn, Kozu-kwan), it is
worth devoting a few minutes to
walking out on the beach to look at
the beautiful view of Odawara Bay,
with to the r. the peninsula of Izu
on whose coast Atami is situated,
ahead the volcano of Oshima (Vries
Island), and the islet of Enoshima
to the 1. Turning round, one has a
magnificent view of Fuji. The road
from Kozu to Y'umoto— the old
Tokaido — leads past (about 1 m.)
the Shoto-en, an inn situated on the
beach, with detached apartments
and sea bathing. It is patronised
by the higher official class.
A little further on, the broad
iSakawa-gmca is crossed, where a
cm-ious method often resorted to
for the protection of the embank-
ments of capricious rivers may be
observed. Large open crates made
of split bamboos are filled with
stones, and set in rows along the
bank. Their appearance has gained
for them the name of ja-kago,
hterally " serjient-baskets." The
half-way station on the tram line is
Odawara {Inn, Koise-ya), atown
celebrated in Japanese history as
the scene of many bloody conflicts
in feudal times.
Odawara belonged successively to vari-
ous families of Daimyos, who dwelt in
the castle which was not finally destroyed
till the time of the late revolution. The
most celebrated of these families were
the Hojo, a younger branch of the family
of "Regents," who ruled over Japan
during the 13th century and the first
three decades of the 14th. This younger
branch, selecting Odawara as their seat
in A.D. 1495, continued to reside there for
152
Route G.—Miyanoshita and Halone.
five generations, namely, till 1590. when
they were defeated and the power of their
house broken for ever by the Taiko Hide-
yoshi in the battle of Ishikake-yama.
Ketiring to their castle, the various com-
manding officers on the Hojo side could
come to no agreement, as time wore on,
as to whether it were better to await the
onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth
themselves and ofter battle. While they
■were still discussing this question in all
its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden
attack and captured the castle by a coup
de main. Hence the proverbial saying,
Odawara hyogi, that is, "the Odawara
Conference," which means endless talk
resulting in nothing.
The tram station stands ojiposite
the mined walls of the castle. On
leaving Odawara, the road enters
the -valley of the Uayakau-a near
the mouth of that stream, which
takes its origin in Lake Hakone.
The two round summits seen almost
constantly ahead are Futago-yama,
or the Twin Mountains. The
avenue to the r. of the tram road
marks the Tokaido. which carriages
and jinrikishas still follow. Near
Yumoto (10 min. out of the
Till.), is a cascade knoAvn as Tama-
dare no taki. A small fee is charged
for admittance. Yumoto boasts
a large inn, called Fukuzumi.
Foreigners obliged to break the
journey are, however, advised to
push on h m. further to the viU. of
Tonosawa, where the Suzuki
Hotel will be found a pleasanter
stopping place with good hot
springs. The mosaic wood-work
{kiji-mono), which from Yumoto
onwards flUs such a prominent
place in every shop-window, is the
specialty for which the whole
Hakone district is noted. The
hamlet more than half-way Tip from
Yumoto to Miyanoshita is called
Ohiradai. On the r. side is a good
wood-work shop, Watanabe, whose
specialty is the iine bamboo basket-
work of Shizuoka.
Miyanoshita (Hotel, *Fuji-ya,
in European style) is a pleasant
resort for many reasons, — the pmity
of the air, the excellence of the
hotel accommodation, the numer-
ous pretty walks both short and
long, the plentiful supply of
" chairs " and of specially large and
comfortable kagos for those who
prefer being carried, and the deli-
cious hot baths, which, containing
but faint traces of salt and soda,
may be used without medical ad-
vice. The upper portion of the
village is called Sokokura. The
principal short walks from Miyano-
shita are : — •
1. To Kigra (distance, 9 cho, say
J hr.) : — no climbing, tame fish to
feed with cakes at the favourite
" Gold-fish Tea-house." Looking
back from here, one sees the tea-
house of Mi-harashi perched high
up the steep hillside. Paths lead up
to it from the main road. Equally
flat and pleasant road 5 clto further
up the valley of the Hayakawa to
Miyagino, a vill. built on both sides
of the stream.
2. Instead of crossing the bridge
to Kiga, turn 1. up the romantic
gorge of the Jakoisu-gaica, lit.
"Stream of the Serpent's Bones,"
so called fi'om some white stones
popularly believed to be the bones
of dead serpents. There is here a.
waterfall, and the hot water which
supplies the loUage can be seen
issuing from the rocks in several
places.
3. To Dogashima, a hamlet
some few hundred yards below
Miyanoshita, down a steep raAdne.
Here are a pretty cascade and a
charming villa, permission to see
which may sometimes be obtained
through the proprietor of the
Fujiya Hotel.
4. CHmb half -May up Sengen-
yanaa, the wooded hill immediate-
ly at the back of the Japanese wing
of the Fujiya Hotel. It is a steep
pull of 25 or 30 min. to the tea-
shed, some 700 ft. above the "viUage,
whence beautiful -siew of upper
half of Fuji. This walk may be
continued along the ridge towards
Ashinoyu, but is pleasanter if taken
in the opposite direction.
Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.).
Walka at Miyanoshita.
153
less good walking, but very pictur-
esque are : —
5. To Kig-a and Miyagino, as
in No. 1 ; then cross the river and
turn sharp to the r., walking back
on the other side, and re-crossing
to the Miyanoshita side at Doga-
shima. Guide indispensable. This,
the most beautiful of all the walks
near Miyanoshita, takes a good
walker a little over 1 hr.
6. Up to Kowaki-dani (Ko-
jigoku), then down past the hamlet
of Kinoiaira to Bliyagino and Kiga,
whence back by the main road.
This walk may be abridged by
turning to the r. before reaching
Kojigoku, almost all the paths r.
leading down ultimately to the
Kiga road. Many persons elect to
stay at KowaM-dani rather than at
Miyanoshita, as the former place
is some 700 ft. higher, and con-
sequently has cooler air. The semi-
European !Mikawa-ya Hotel posses-
ses excellent baths. The 15 cho
(1 m.) from Miyanoshita to Kowaki-
dani is done on foot or in chairs.
The meaning of tbe name Kqjigoku is
" Small Hell ". It was given to the place
in allnaiou to some small sulishur springs,
which supply the hotel baths. In 1877,
on the occasion of the visit of H. M. the
Mikado, the name of Kojigoku was
officially altered to Kouaki-dani, which
means the "Valley of the Lesser Boiling."
7. To the hot spring of Gora,
through the wood leading to O-
jigoku ; returning home by the
zigzag road over the moor to
Miyagino ; under 2 hrs.
Good half-dav excirrsions are
to :— _
8. Ojigoku, or JJig Hell, alter-
natively named Oicaki-dani, i.e.,
the Valley of the Greater Boiling —
distance, a little under 2 ri to the
top of the gorge. Neither name is
a misnomer. The whole gorge
reeks with sulphtxrous fiimes, vege-
tation decreases as one ascends
higher, and the aspect of the scene
becomes weird and desolate. It is
advisable to keep to the path and
tread carefully after the guide, as
more lives than one have been
sacrificed by a false step on the
treacherous crust. The view from
the top of the gorge differs as wide-
ly in its charms from the scene of
desolation just traversed as can
well be imagined. In the centre,
Fuji .towers up in perfect beauty.
To the extreme r. is tooth-shaped
Kintoki-zan, then the Otome-toge,
the Nagao-toge, and to the 1. the
more imposing slopes of Ashi-
taka. The summit of Kamiyama,
which rises up immediately be-
hind the sulphur springs, distin-
guishes itself by its graceful out-
line and by the dense forest cover-
ing its sides. The vegetation of
this neighbourhood is remarkable,
consisting as it does chiefly of the
small box and asemi {Andromeda
japnnica).
9. UpMyojo-g'a-take, or Muko-
yama, the big gi'assy hill immediate-
ly opposite Miyanoshita, on the 1.
side of the stream. It is a walk of
1-^ hr. to the top, the path at first
leading down through the vill. of
Dogashima, there crossing the
stream, and then turning consider-
ably to the r., before turning 1.
again along the crest of the hill.
The view from the summit is
magnificent. In the centre is Fuji,
the dej)ression immediately in
front of which is the Otome-t5ge ;
then to the r. Kintoki and M3T6jin-
ga-take, behind which rise Oyama
and Tanza^a ; in the plain the
Hakawa-gawa, and behind it the
low range of Sogayama. The town
of Odawara can be seen by walking
back a few yards ; then the sea with
Oshima, and to the r. the low slope
of Ishikake-yama ; then Futago-
yama, Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama,
and Dai-ga-take. The blear spot
on Kamiyama is the solfatara of
So-un Jigokxi. Still further to the
r., in the blue distance, is Ashitaka-
yama. The best time to view this
scene is at sunrise or at sunset.
The coolie should therefore carry a
lantern, either for the tii-st or for
154
Route, 6. — Miyanoshita and Hak'one.
tlie last portion of the w alk. The
descent via Miyagino and Kiga is
steeper in parts even than the
ascent. This expedition is not
recommended to people with weak
heads or duiing the heat of sum-
mer. The whole will take 82 hrs.,
including a short rest at the^ sum-
mit.
10. To the Dai, or TeiTace, on
the top of the hill leading to Saijoji
{see No. 16), 1^- hi', climb for sake
of splendid Tiew. Thence 1. along
the ridge, and down the nest de-
pression (Yagura-zawa-toge) also to
the 1., and so home, — 4 or 5 hrs.
The folloMong are longer excm--
sions, occupying the greater part
of a day : —
11. To Aslainojru and Hakone
(1 n 8 cho to Ashinoyu, thence a
little over 1 ri on to Hakone, say
5-J m. altogether). Ashinoyu {Inns,
IVIatsuzaka-ya, Europ. food and
beds ; Kinokuni-ya) is famous for
its sulphur springs, whose efficacy
in the treatment of skin diseases
and rheumatism attracts crowds of
Japanese patients and not a few
foreigners, despite the bare un-
inviting appearance of the locahty.
Ashinoyu is very cool in summer,
owing to its height, but pays for
this advantage by being fi-equently
enveloped in mist. The road thither,
about half of which is a stifE pull,
leads close by Kowaki<lani. Just
before reaching Ashinoyu, the giiide
shorJd be told to lead over a small
eminence, close to the road, known
as Benten-yama, which offers a good
view, — Odawara Bay, the peninsula
of ilisaki with Enoshima like a
Kttle knob on the coast ; and
beyond that, Tokyo Bay and the
blue outhne of the provinces of
Kazusa and Boshu, which divide
Toky5 Bay from the Pacific. The
principal mountain to the 1. is
Oyama, shaj^ed like an obtiise tri-
angle. Tiirning round, one has
Futago to the 1., Koma-ga-take
and Kamiyama to the r. Ashinoyu
itself commands no view, as it lies
in a marshy depression, though on
the top of a hUl.
[At the end of the vill., a path 1.
leads up Futago-yama,
■ Futago-yama , lit. Twin Mountain,
is a favourite designation for such
double peaks.
25 min. to the first summit of
the nearer peak ( Uica-Futago),
which presents a garden-lUce
appearance, and J hr. more to
the second summit, passing
through an ancient crater now
thickly carpeted with moss and
overgrown with bushes and
trees. The view from this second
summit is the finer, includ-
ing Lake Hakone and many of
the points enumerated on the
next page under Kamiyama. It
is possible to reach the further
peak of Futago-yama (Shita-
Pidago) ; but the labour is not
repaid, as the summit itself is
covered with trees and bushes
that shut out all view.
On a hill 8 cho, say J hr., be-
yond Ashinoyu, at a place
called Yu-no-hana-zaica, a bath-
ing establishment A\ith very
strong sulphur baths was open-
ed a few years ago. It com-
mands a fine view, similar to
that fi'om Benten-yama. This
walk, and that along the flat
in the direction of Hakone, are
the two best for invalids stay-
ing at Ashinoyu.]
After leaving Ashinoyu, the path
is at first level, and then descends
most of the way to Hakone. The
first object of interest passed is, 1.,
a set of three small stone monu-
ments dedicated to the Soga Breth-
ren and to Tora Gozen (see p. 84).
A few yards f ui'ther on, to the r.
and half-hidden among the grass
and bushes, is a block of andesite
rock well-worth pausing a moment
to inspect, as it is covered with
Buddhist images carved in relief.
These images are known as the
Ni-ju-go Bosatsu, that is, the
Way to Ashinoyu and Hakonc
151
Twenty-five Bosatsu ; (see p. 46).
The carving apparently dates only
from A.D. 1293, tliougli attributed
to Kobo Daishi.
Two or three of the images at the top
are unfinished. According to a legend
still credited by the country-folk, Kobo
Daishi had carved the other twenty -two
during a sinc;le night ; but as day broke
before the completion of his labours, the
rest perforce remained incomplete.
But the chief ciiriosity on the
road is the colossal image of Jiz5
{Eokudo no Jizd) carved in relief on
a block of andesite, and ranking
among the triumphs of the Japa-
nese chisel. Tradition has it that
the great Buddhist saint, Kobo
Daishi, carved this image also in a
single night. A festival in its
honoiir is celebrated yearly on the
'23rd August.
[Koxna-ga-take may be as-
cended by a track starting from
the depression immediately
beyond the large image of Jizo,
leading tip to the r., and fol-
lowing along the ridge. This
mountain is rather less worth
climbing than Kamiyama, as
the plateau-like nature of the
top makes it impossible to take
in the whole view from any
single spot. It has, however,
the advantage of affording the
completest \iew of Lake Hako-
ne. Time, 50 min., or say, 2^
hvs. from IVIiyanoshita.
A boulder at the top of Koma-ga-
take is the subject of a curious su-
perstition. It is bilieved that the
water contained in the hollows of
this bouldtr never runs dry . and
the peasants of the surrounding
country make pilgrimages to it in
seasons of drought, in order to ob-
tain rain by scattering the droi)s to
the four winds. But if any of the
water be taken down the mountain,
the result is a typhoon.
Koma-ga-take may also be as-
cended from a point nearer the
vill. of Ashinoyu; but the climb
is then considerably steeper.]
ITie two meres (Shoni-ga-ike and
Xazuna-(ja-ike), v. and I. on the way
between Ashinoyu and Hakone, are
the remains of ancient craters.
Shoni-ga-ike generally affords fail-
skating in the winter. The first
hamlet reached on getting to the
lake is Moto-IIakone, 15 chd this side
of Hakone itself . The Maisuzaka-
ya Inn, pleasantly situated on the
border of the lake, commands the
best view of Fuji in this neighbour-
hood.
Instead of returning to Miyano-
shita by the way one has come, it
vrill be found pleasant in warm
weather to take a boat from Hako-
ne (or from Moto-Hakone, which
shortens the expedition by one
mile) to the far-end of the lake, —
Umi-jiri, lit. '' sea-end," as it is
termed. Alighting there, we go
past the little bathing village of
Ubago. up the spur separating the
lake from Ojigoku, and return
to Miyanoshita by the Ojigoku
way, as in Walk No. 8. Those who
have done the expedition, not on
foot, but in chairs or kagos, can
take these conveyances with them
in the boat, and can be cari'ied
most of the way home from
Umijiri. It is only necessary to walk
over the dangerous portion of the
Ojigoku gorge. Instead of taking
a boat, some may jjrefer to foUow
the path along the edge of the lake.
The distances, if this extension be
adopted, are as follows :
Miyanoshita to : — 111 Chd M.
Ashinoyu .1 8 3
Moto-Hakone 23 1\
Hakone 15 1
Umijiri 1 IS 3i{
Ubago 1'2 i
Ojigoku.. « ^
Miyanoshita I 34 4if
Total 6 10 15^
12. Up Kamiyama, the central
and highest peak of the Hakone
range, the waj' — we purposely say
" way," for there is not always a
path — lying first among long grass,
and then through scrub. It is best
156
Route 6. — Miyanosliita and Hakone.
to itscend fi-om a point on the O-
jigokn road i)ast the atII. of Nino-
taixa, and to descend Tia, Yu-no-
hanazawa, whence do\\"n by a zigzag
path passing throiigh Kowaki-dani.
The ascent "«'ill take a fair ■walker
■2J hrs., the whole expedition, say, 5
hrs. Its roughness makes it unsuit-
able for ladies. An old crater is
traversed before reaching the sum-
mit. Avhich commands a gi-ander
panorama than any other in this
district. Fuji towers to the N.W.,
flanked by the snowy summits of
the Koshu mountains to the r. and
the Shinshu mountains to the 1.
Further 1. is Ashitaka-yama. then
the blue Gulf of Svn-uga with its
line of surf, and the nan'ow pine-
clad promontory of Mio-no-Matsu-
bara shutting in Shimizu Bay. Next
comes the peninsula of Izu with
the Amagi-san range, Hatsushima
near Atami, smoking Yries Island
and the smaller islands of Toshima,
Niijima, etc., forming with it and
with more distant Hachijo the
" Seven Isles of Izu ; "' Sagami Bay,
with the town of Odawara. the
liver Sakawa. Enoshima, and the
promontory of Misaki. with the
further promontory of Sunosaki in
Boshu behind ; the plain that
stretches towards Fujisawa, Oyama,
and the Tanzawa range. All the
summits of the Hakone range are
grouped in the nearer distance at
the spectator's feet. Between him
and Fuji is a ridge, the three lowest
points of which are the Otome-toge,
Nagao-toge, and Fukara-toge.
The grassy summit on the other
(southern) side is Koma-ga-take
A\ith Futago-yama behind, while
Taiko-yama and Ishikake-yama
stretch behind that again like a
long wall. Miyanoshita, too. is
visible on this side.
Taiko-ya;na, or TaJto-i/nc/ii, be It observ-
ed, takes its name from a tradition to the
effect that the Taiko Hideyoshi led his
troops along it when going to fight the
battle of Ishikake-yama. The way was
shown him — so it is alleged — by a
hunter, whom he thereupon killed, in
order to make sure that the enemv shotiM
not profit by the poor fellow's local
knowledge.
13. Up most of the way to Ashi-
noyn ; thence turning sharp 1. for
30 cho down a steep and stony but
picturesque path, which passes
through the vill. of Hata on the
old Tokaido. The first portion of
the descent is called Takizaka, or
Cascade Hill, on account of a pretty
cascade seen to the r. about two-
thirds of the way down. The
return to ilij^anoshita is made via
Yiimoto. Tonosawa. and Ohiradai,
— total distance, about 5 rl.
14. To the top of the Otome-
toge, or Maiden's Pass, distant 3
ri (7\ m.), whence can be gained the
nearest and most complete view of
Fuji and of the plain at its base.
The path is not steep, excepting
some 8 cho in the middle up a hill
called the Usui-zaka, and 11 cho stiff
climbing at the end. It is possible,
however, to ride or to be carried the
whole way in a chair. The path
leads through Miyagino, crosses
the Hayakawa. and continties up
the vaUey to the vill. of Sengoku,
noted for its cattle and horse-farm.
[From Sengoku, the ascent of
tooth-shaped Kintoki-zan
takes ] hr., the climb being
steep for a portion of the way.
One may also reach it from the
Otome-toge, but that is much
longer. The summit, which is
marked by several tiny shrines
and is clear of trees, affords a
grand viev/. The people of the
suiTOunding country-side as-
cend Kintoki-zan annually on
the 17th day of the 3rd moon,
old style, on which day the fes-
tival of I-no-hana (" the boar's
snout ") is held on the summit.
The name of the mountain is
derived from that of Kintoki,
a mighty hunter of legendary
fame.]
The chmV) up the Otome-toge
commences shortly after leaving
Sengoku. The labour it entails is
amply repaid by the view from the
Otome-toge.
157
gap forming the pass. Persons
with sufificient time will do well to
climb up the hill to the r., from
whose top are visible the snow-clad
peaks of the mountains of Koshu
and Shinshu. It is also possible to
walk 1. along the ridge to the
Nagao-toge, the first f hr. scram-
ble through difficult scrub being
rewarded by a glorious view from
the open summit of the Nagao-dai.
In this case the return is made via
the farm. — To travel out to Miyano-
shita viil the Otome-toge, is a plea-
sant alternative route for those
who intend visiting this district a
second time. Instead of alighting
at Kozu, one continues in the train
as far as Gotemba station, situated
in the plain at Fuji's base. From
Gotemba it is 2 J ri to the top of
the pass, but the first portion of
the way may be done in jinrildsha.
Gotemba is also the nearest station
for travellers coming up the Tokai-
do Railway from Kobe, bound for
Miyanoshita. But if they have
much luggage or object to walking,
they shordd go on to Kozu, whence
the facilities for proceeding to
Miyanoshita are greater.
15. To the vill. of Sengoku, as in
the preceding walk ; there cross the
liver to the thickly wooded hill of
Dai-ga-take ; then past the hot
springs of Yuba, again crossing and
re-crossing the river to Miyagiuo,
and so home. The park-like
scenery about Dai-ga-take and
Yuba differs from that of the other
walks in the neighbourhood of
Miyanoshita. Time, 2 hra. from
Sengoku, or 4 hrs. altogether.
16. To the Buddhist temple of
Saijoji, sometimes called JJoryo-
san, distant 3 ri. Though placed
last, this long expedition is perhaps
the most delightful of aU ; for it
alone includes architectural beauties
as well as beauties of nature. The
path, after passing through Kiga
and ]\Iiyagino and crossing the
Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy
plateau near the summit of Mydjin-
ga-iake, — not to be confounded with
the My5j6-ga-take of Walk No. 9.
(Though kagos go this way, horses
cannot. Eiders therefore have to
go round via Yagura-zawa, w-hich
increases the distance by about a
couple of miles.) Tell the guide
to lead to the spot called the Dai,
or Terrace, \ hr. out of the way,
to the 1., whence may best be seen
the superb view : — on the one
hand, the sea, with Vries Island,
the peninsula of Boshu, and the
nearer peninsula of Sagami, the
plain of Sagami watered by the
rivers Banyu and _Sakawa, the
mountain ranges of Oyama, Kura-
kake, Tanzawa, Sobutsu, Yagura-
dake, and luany of the mountains
of Koshu ; on the other, the wooded
heights beyond the Hakone pass
which dwarf the nearer ridge of
Takanosu ; then tiu-ning towards
the r., double-crested Futago-yama,
Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama, and the
long ridge to the W. of Hakone
which terminates in Kintoki-zan ;
and above and beyond all, the
gigantic cone of Fuji. From this
point it is a descent, Saijoji being
even lower down on the far side of
the mountain than Miyanoshita is
on the near. Before reaching it,
the open moorland of the hillside is
exchanged for a fine grove of pines
and cryptomerias, with an under-
growth of beautiful flowering
shrubs, — deutzia, azalea, pyrus ja-
ponica, aucuba, etc., according to
the season.
The monastery of Saijoji, ■which belongs
to the Soto sect of Buddhists, was founded
by a hermit named Kyoan.'who died A.D.
1401; but it owes its special reputation
for sanctity to his successor Doryo, who
was supposed to be one of the numerous
incarnations of Kwannon, the Goddess of
Mercy,
To Doryd's memory is dedicated
the finest of all the shrines which
collectively constitute Saijoji. It
is called My5kwaku-d6, ami stands
at the top of a flight of steps to the
1. The links of the chain which
divides the staiicase into two parts
are often bound with scraps of
paper, on which pilgiims have
158
Roide 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone
writteu short prayers. The fan of
feathers, which forms so striking a
feature of the ornamentation, was
Doryo's crest. The winged tigiires
with large noses represent goblins
(tengu), who dwell in the moun-
tains. Do not fail to notice the
elaborate wood-carvings. Most of
the large upright stones of irregular
shape inscribed with characters in
red or gold, which are scattered
about the grounds, are memorials
of persons who have at various
times contributed towards the
repairs of the temple. So is the
hideous grey railing, by which
more recent piety has succeeded
in marring the perfect taste and
beauty of the scene. It is general-
ly most convenient to lunch at
Saijoji al fresco in one of the
retired portions of the temple
grounds. There are also several
tea-sheds some way down the
avenue beyond the temple.
Instead of returning to Miyano-
shita the way one came, it is far
better to arrange at the hotel, be-
fore starting, to have jinriMshas in
waiting at the end of the stately
avenue of cryptomerias leading
from the temple down for 28 cho
to the vill. of Sekimoto {tea-house,
Saka-ya). After the fatigues of the
walk, one can thence bowl along
merrily through the jileasant valley
of the Sakawa-gawa, skirting Oda-
wara, whence by tram to Tonosawa,
and by jinrikisha or on foot up
to Miyanoshita. The total distance
of the trip, as thus modified, is 10
ri 25 cho (26 miles) ; but the 3 ri in
jinrikisha from Sekimoto to Oda-
wara, and the possibility of doing
all the remainder of the way up to
Miyanoshita by jiniildsha, diminish
the exertion. Allow 9 lirs. for the
whole. — It is also possible to take
Saijoji on the way back from
Miyanoshita to Yokohama, by join-
ing the railway at Matsuda, the
nearest station to the temple. The
distance from the end of the ave-
nue just mentioned, is under
2 ri. From 6 to 7 hrs. should be
allowed for the whole expedition,
including a stoppage for lunch.
3. — -Hakone and Neighbourhood.
Hakone is most quickly reached
from Yokohama and Tokyo by the
Tokaido Eailway as far as Kozu,
thence by tram to Yumoto, and on
foot or in kago along the old To-
kaido up the Hakone pass via
Hata, the whole journey taking
about G hrs. from Yokohama, or 7
hrs. froiu Tokyo. The way up the
Hakone pass is picturesque, not-
withstanding recent deforestation ;
but the road is stony beyond des-
cription. Many residents prefer to
travel via Miyanoshita, Avhere they
spend the night, and then push on
next morning by Walk No. II (see
p. 154).
The respective merits of Hakone
and Miyanoshita as summer resorts
form a constant subject of debate
between the imrtisans of the two
places. Miyanoshita has the ad-
vantage of hot springs, a drier air,
easier access, and a hotel in Euro-
pean style. Hakone is cooler, be-
ing 1,000 ft. higher, it affords more
privacy, and has a picturesque lake
where one may bathe and boat and
go on water picnics. The view of
Fiiji, too, and the reflection of Fuji
in the lake (Hakone no saka-Fuji)
are gi-eat attractions. In winter
the advantage is altogether on
Miyanoshita's side. No one thinks
of staying at Hakone during that
season, whereas Miyanoshita is
equally pleasant all the year round.
Indeed, many prefer the early
winter there to the summer, as the
air is almost always clear in ■winter,
and walldng consequently more
enjoyable. The chief inn at Hako-
ne is the Hafu-ya, on the lake.
But as nearly every hoiise in the
village is to let during the summer
season, the plan usually followed
by families from Y'okohama and
the China ports is to hire a separate
residence by the month, bring their
own servants with them, and set
WaUoifrom Hakone.
159
lip housekeeping. European furni-
ture of a rough kind is generally
obtainable, as also pro\isions dur-
ing the summer season.
Some of the most enjoyable ex-
peditions from Hakone are the
same as those already described
from Miyanoshita, — for instance,
those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu,
up Futago-yama, etc. The follow-
ing may also be recommended : —
1. The Temple of Gong-en, 1^ m.
The way leads along an avenue of
tine cryptomerias that lines the
Tokaido. A flight of steps will be
seen r., near which formerly stood
the old Barrier {Hakone no sekl) and
guard-house, where all travellers
were challenged and required to
show their passports. The barrier
was removed in 1871, but part of
the stone-work still remains.
Kaempfer, who passed this way ou
Sunday, the 11th iJarch, 1091, writes of
this guard-house as follows: — "We came
to the Imperial guard at the end ot the
village, where all the Japanese came out
of their yorimons and Caiigns, and those
on horseback alighted from their horses,
presenting themselves very respectfully
and bareheaded, to be search'd, which
however was done but slightly. If there
be any the least suspicion of a woman,
disguis'd in man's cloaths, they must be
more narrowly search'd, with this difler-
euco however, that in this case, they are
examin'd by women. Private persons
going up to ./^'/o, must show their Pas.s-
ports at this place, otherwise they are
kept under arrest for three days, before
they are permitted to pursue tludr
journey. "
Following along th(j avenue, wi:
soon come 1. to an Imperial Sum-
mer Palace (Biki/u), not accessible
to the public. The next jjoint in
the road is the Matsuzaka-ya inn,
commanding the best view of Fuji
to be had anywhere on the shores
of the lake. A little further on,
we pass under a stone torii, and
enter the hamlet of Moto-Hakonc.
We then turn slightly to the 1„
passing under a red torii, by the
side of which stands a wooden shed
containing two iron rice-boilers
said to have been used by Yoritomo
on his liunting expeditions. The
road here skirts the lake, soon
bringing us to a charming vista as
we ascend to the foot of the temple
steps. On the 1., just before pass-
ing through the torii, stands the
custodian's house, where Yoritomo's
sword and other relics are preserv-
ed. Also on the 1., half-way up, is
a shrine dechcated to the Soga
Brethren. The main temple is a
picturesque relic of mouldering
antiquity. The annual festival is
celebrated on the 1st August.
•2. Walk to the End of the Lake,
5 m. along the E. shore, to
Uniijiri, as the N. end of the lake is
called.
3. Along the Sukumo-gawa. —
This is a picturesque, but rather
rough walk. The stream has to be
perpetually crossed and re-crossed,,
and sometimes wading is unavoid-
able. The path finally leads out
near the aoU. of Hata, whence
home. At the beginning of the
valley, a path to the r. leads to
Yoshihama on the coast.
i. Walks in the direction of
Ataxni. — Several pleasant walks
can be taken in the direction of
the Ten Piovince Pass and Atami,
notably one ui) the slope of Okoma-
yama and over Kazakoshi-rjama, to
the highest point of the Tokaido,
where, on a Uttle plateau, the
boundary j)Ost between the provin-
ces of Sagami and Izu is placed ;
and back to Hakone by the
Tokaido. ^\^lile crossing the
plateau, there is a iine view of the
lake, the mountains surroimding
it, and Fuji beyond, with to the
south the 15ay of Suruga, the
peninsula of Izu, the towTis
dotting the Tokaido, Ashitaka-
yama, the Fujikawa far away in
the distance like a streak of sUver,
and still further the long point of
Omae-zald stretching out into the
ocean. Distance about 3i m.
Of all walks in this direction,
the most delightful is that to the
Ten Province Pass(Jifcfcofcu-<(5ge).
The cUmb is for the most part easy
enough, and the panorama from
160
Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu.
the summit, especially on a line day
in early winter, something never to
be forgotten. The top of the ridge,
which is marked by a stone known
as the Ten Province Stone, looks
•down on the provinc-es of Izu,
Stiruga, Totomi, Koshu, Kotsuke,
Musashi, Shimosa, Kazusa, Boshu,
and Sagami. Bays, peninsulas,
islands, mountain ranges lie
spread out in entrancing variety of
form and colour, Fuji towering up
magnificently above all the rest.
The almost artificial-looking little
promontory seen constantly to the
1. dTiring the higher portion of the
walk is called Cape Manazuru.
The distance fi-om Hakone is some-
what less than 4 n, and can be
done in 3 hrs. A steep descent of
a little over 3 m. (1 hr.) leads fi-om
the top down to Atami.
5. The Subterranean Water-
Course and the Fukara-toge. —
The Fukara Pass (a very low one)
is the most southerly of three
that lead from the end of Lake
Hakone to I'uji, the other two
being the Nagao-toge and the
Otome-toge. The first stage on
the way to all three from Hakone
is by boat nearly to the end of the
lake. Close to the spot on the
shore where the way up the
Fukara Pass begins, is a tunnel
{suimon), through which a portion
of the waters of the lake is carried
to several villages on the other
side of the mountain, ser\'ing to
irrigate their rice-fields, and then
flowing on to form the falls of Sano.
This subterranean channel is said to be
entirely artificial, the local account being
that it was pierced by two brothers, who
bored through the mountain from oppo-
site sides until they met in the middle.
The walk up the pass takes only
15 min. The exit of the tunnel
{umi no ana) is some way down the
valley, say 2 hrs. from the boat
and back again.
6. The Nagrao-toge.— This lies
1 ri 7 elio from the end of the lake.
The way leads first across the
Hayakawa, the natural outlet of
the lake, which later on flows past
Miyanoshita ; then along a broad
level cinder path to the foot of
the pass, and finally by an easy
climb of 12i cho to the top. The
gap at the summit commands
a complete view of Fuji from base
to peak. On looldng back, the
eye SM'eeps across the plain of
Sengoku-hara and over the waters
of Hakone Lake. Kamiyama is
also seen to advantage, and on its
slope can be distinctly traced the
solfataras of Ojigoku. A more
extensive and beautiful \'iew is,
however, obtained by ascending
the hill to the r. of the pass, called
Hagao-Dai. From this summit,
not only Fuji, but the peninsula
of Izu, with Amagi-san, the whole
of the fertile plain stretching away
to the r. of the town of Mishima,
the rugged peaks of Ashitaka, the
course of the Fujikawa, the
promontory of Mio-no-Matsubara,
Kuno-zan, and the full sweep of
Suruga Bay lie at the sx^ectator's
feet. ^
ROUTE 7.
The PKNiNsuiiA of Izr.
1. ATAMI AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD.
2. TO THE HOT SPRINGS OF SHTJ-
ZENJI AND TO SHIMODA. 3. FEOM
NUMAZU TO SHIflODA AND ATAMI
BY THE COAST. 4. FEOM YUGA-
SHIMA TO ATAMI.
(Conf. map faciwj p. 151.)
1. — Atami and Neighbouehood.
Atami (Higuchi Hotel, foreign
style ; Sagami-ya, Fuji-ya, and
many others) is a favourite
winter resort of the Japanese, as
it is protected by a high range
of hiUs from the north-westerly
winds which prevail at that
season. The whole stretch of coast
Walks at Atami.
161
from Kozu on the Tokaido Bail-
way to Atami partakes more or
less of the same advantage ; and
the soft air, the orange-groves, and
the deep blue of Odawara Bay,
combine to make of this district
the Kiviera of Japan.
Atami is most easily reached
from Yokohama by rail as far as
Kozu, 1^ hr., whence by tram to
Odawara, k hr., and then by "jin-
rikisha tram " (Jinsha Tetsudo) for
the rest of the way, 4 hrs., along the
coast. JinriMshas may also be
availed of. Note that at Odawara
time and trouble are saved by
continuing on in the tram past the
tramway station to the point
where the Atami road turns off.
Itinerary by Boad.
KOZU to :— Ri Cho M.
Odawara 1 28 4^
Hayakawa 10 f
Nebukawa 1 20 3^
Enoura 1 12 3}
Yoshihama 1 32 4|-
Izu-san 2 12 5|
ATAMI 18 li
Total 9 24 23.*
The road is delightfully pictur-
esque and representatively Japa-
nese, leading first under an ancient
avenue most of the way to Oda-
wara, and thence up and down
along the coast, wdth ever-changing
views of sea and land and of Vries
Island smoking in the distance.
The little peninsula whose neck is
crossed about half-way, is called
Cape Manazuru.
Travellers approaching Atami
from the Kyoto side may finii it a
convenient saving of time to change
trains at Mishima Junction for
Daiha, and thence on foot or by
jinrildsha over the hills to Atiimi,
5 ri ; but pedestiiaus can save
at least 1 ri by short-cuts over the
springy turf of the higher portion
of the walk. During most of the
way up, a fine near view is obtained
of Fuji, with to the r. Amaf^-san
and the lower ranges of the penin-
sula of Izu.
A third way, much to be recom-
mended to good walkers, is that
from Miyanoshita via Ashinoyu to
Hakone (see p. 154), and thence over
the hiUs by the Ten Province Pass
(see p. 159), with its incomparable
view. The ascent is not very steep,
but the descent on the Atami side
is short and abrupt. The total
distance from IVIiyanoshita to
Atami by this way is between 6
and 7 ri ; time, 7 hrs., including
stoppages.
The curiosity for which Atami
is noted is its geyser (Oytt), which
breaks out once in every four hours
in the middle of the town. It oii-
ginaUy shot straight xip into the
air, but is now partially enclosed,
and an inhalation house (Kyulci-
ktoan) has been erected for patients
suffering from affections of the
throat and lungs, the salt in which
the steam of the geyser is rich
being beneficial in such cases. The
handsome house close behind the
Kytiki-kwan, on the other side
of the small creek which flows
through the town, belongs to His
Imperial Highness the Crown
Prince. The chief productions of
Atami are a beautifully delicate
kind of paper, called gampishi,
literally, '• wild-goose skin paper,"
— gampishi-ori, ^\•hich is a fabric
made of this paper and used for
clothing, and an excellent sweet-
meat called ame.
The walks to be recommendeti
from Atami are : — ■
1. To the grove of Kinomiya, a
iew min. distant from the hotel.
At the far end of this grove, are
some of the finest camphor-trees
{Icv.sunoki) remaining in Japan.
2. To XJomi, the hut visible
high Tip on the cliff that shuts in
Atami Bay to the S. It is a cUmb
of some 20 min.. ^vith a good view.
The name L'">iii, lit. "fish-outlook."
refers to the use to which this post of
observation is put. When a school of
162
Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu.
bonitos is expected,— and ther frequently
visit the bay in enormous numbers, — a
man stands on this eminence, whence
he can see ciearly down to a great depth
in the water, and makes signs to the
fishermen below, indicating to them the
direction in which it will be best to
torn.
A walk of 25 niin. further, vqi the
crest of the hill and then down to
the I., leads to some small cascades
{Pudo no taki). A boat may also
be taken, and some caTes \-isited
at a point of the coast called
Nishiki-ura.
3. To the hot springs of Izu-san,
i 7-t. The houses are situated on
the rock below the highway, in a
manner resembling swallows' nests.
4. To the Bai-ea, or plum gar-
den. This is a level walk of about
1 mile.
5. To Tosawa, i hr. cUmb half-
way up Higane-san to a beautiful
groTe of trees. There one may tui-n
to the r., and come back by way of
the Till, of Izu-san. (This vill. is
not below the highway, as are the
hot spiings of Izu-san, mentioned
in No. 3.)
6. Past the Bai-en, and up to the
top of the Fujimi-tog-e, aifording
a magnificent view similar to that
from the Ten Province Stone, —
IJ hr. there, 1 hr. back.
7. To the little port of Ajiro,
2^ ri (6 m.), a steep but pretty
walk over the hills, returning, if
prefen-ed, by boat. The walk takes
about 2J lii-s., the return by sea
less. It will be found best to lunch
at the S'rdmizu-ya Inn, situated at
the point where the Shimoda road
branches off r. over the Taka-toge,
and having pleasant rooms over-
looking the bay. The vill. itself,
which faces N., offers no attrac-
tions.
The foIlo\s-ing are iDleasant all
day expeditions : —
8. To the islet of Hatsushima,
noted for its jonquils (suisen),
thence to Ajiro, and back by the
caves of NishiM-m-a.
9. Up Higane-san, and down a
steep narrow gorge r. from the
temple there to the secluded spa of
Yugawara {Inn, ltd) ; thence back
via Mongawa on the Odawara road.
10. By boat to Ito (Inn, Yamada-
ya at Shishido baths), 5 ri 28 cTio
by road, but shorter by water.
The cluster of hamlets, of which Wada
and Mntsubara are the biggest, are col-
lectively known as Ito, and noted for their
hot mineral waters. The other hamlets
of the group are Yukawa. Take-no-uchi,
and Arai.
A day_is required for the excur-
sion to Omuro-zan, an extinct vol-
cano resembling Fuji in shape, and
therefore often called by the
country-folk Fuji no Imoto, " Fuji's
Younger Sister," or Sengen-yama
(Sengen is an alternative name of
the Goddess of Fuji). The crater
is about 250 yds. in diameter, and
some 80 ft. deep, the bottom being
covered with scattered blocks of
lava. To the E. of this volcano
stands a smaller called Eomuro-zan.
2. — To THE Hot Speings op Shu-
ZENJT, AND OVER AmAGI-SAN TO
Shimoda.
Train from lilishima Jiinction on
the Tokaidd in 1 hr. to Shuzenji,
whence by road as follows :
SHUZENJI to :— Hi C%d M.
Yugashima 3 18 8*
Nashimoto 5 6 12^
Mitsukuri 2 11 5|
SHIMODA 2 5 5}
Total 13 6 32
For travellers from Yokohama
or up the Tokaido this is a 2 or 3
days' trip, which should be arranged
in such fashion as to sleep the first
night at Shuzenji, and the second
at Y'^ugano (see next page), whence
one can easily reach Shimoda by
noon on the third day ; or if neces-
sary, by pushing on to Yugashima
the first night, Shimoda could be
reached on the second. It is pos-
sible to take jinriMshas as far as
Yugashima, and again along the
excellently giaded road from the
Shuzevji. Way to Shimoda.
163
foot of the Konabe-toge into
Hhinioda ; but they are not always
to be depended upon in that direc-
tion. Take it altogether, the way
beyond Shnzenji is vei-y hilly, and
scarcely to be recommended except
to pedestrians, who will find it
replete with natural beauty, and be
able to sleep at a hot spring every
night. A jinrikisha road, with
tunnel through the Amagi-toge, is
expected to be finished by the end
of 1901 . The railway, too, now at
a standstill for want of funds, will
be pushed on to ShimodiX within
the next few years.
Passing from Mishima Junction
through Mishima-machi, a town
which boasts a large Shinto temple
to Oyama-tsumi, the god of moun-
tains, the line rans along a nan'ow,
well-cultivated plain, or rather
valley, bounded on the W. l)y green
hills of abrupt and fantastic shapes,
and on the E. by the long hog's-
back which shuts out Odawara
Bay. Through this valley flows
the Kano-gawa, on an affluent of
which, the Katsiu'a-gawa, stands
Shuzenji. The rocky sides of Jo-
yami, (" castle hill ") present a
striking object as seen on the r. of
Ohito station. At Ohito, basha may
be engaged for the 1 ri 8 cho of flat
road to
Shuzenji {Inns, Arai-ya, Kiku-
ya, and many others). Pleasantly
situated among low hills, this place
is much resorted to on account of
its mineral waters, some of which
contain carbonate of soda, others
traces of sulphur. In the middle
of the torrent which flows down
throxigh the village, a hot spring
rises up in a basin of rock. The
spot has been caged in, and con-
nected with the bank by a tiny
bridge, so that bathers may either
luxuriate in the high temperature of
the spring, or moderate it by means
of the cold water of the river. The
sexes bathe promiscuously. Numer-
ous other hot springs supply baths
lining the river bank, — some public.
some the private property of the
chief inns. These latter are very
pleasant and suitable for Euro-
peans.
[Those who do not wish to go
beyond Shuzenji may make a
charming little round by walk-
ing thence to Mlto on the coast,
3 ri, and then sailing or rowing
to Shim-tira, and on foot or
by jinrikisha to Xuimizu, the
whole occupying 5 or 6 hours.]
Behind the vill. of Odaira, and
visible fi-om the road, is Asahi no
taki, a cascade said to be 100 ft. in
height, and forming a series of four
or five falls. .\11 this neighbourhood
abounds in hot sjirings, those of
Seko no taki being the most notable
(8 cho off the main rotwl from
Yugashima), and picturesquely sit-
uated.
Yugashima {Inn, Ochiai-ro, at
the hot springs, about 10 min. to
the r. off the main road) is a ham-
let at the foot of the Amagi-toge.
The ascent of this pass (3 ri) is
easy, leading over open grassy hills
and the forest-clad sloj)e of one of
the spurs to the r. of Amagi-san.
Amagi-san, it should be mentioned, is
the general name given to the whole
mountain mass stretching across the pe-
ninsula of Izu from E. to W., the loftiest
summit of which is called Banjiro.
The splendid timber on this range, has
.suffered much from deforestation durin"
the last twenty-five years.
The traveller shoiild turn aside to
visit the cascade of Joren no taki,
formed by the waters of the Kano-
gawa. It is close to the main
road.
The favourite hot springs of
Yugano {Inns, Shioda.-ya, Edo-
ya) are prettily situated on the
banks of the Kawazu-gawa, some
6 cho only from the hanilet of
Jfashimoto, at the foot of the pass
on the other side. Here a road
branches off to the hot springs of
Kawazu-no-hama on the coast (1^
ri), which affords a different route
for those wishing to reach the coast
without entering Shimoda.
164
Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu.
Beyond Nashimoto the road
crosses the Konabe-toge, a climb of
18 cho, and after passing Mitsakuri,
descends a well-cultivated valley
indgated by the waters of the
Nozugawa, a stream flowing into
the harboui- of Shimoda. The
country round is beautifully diver-
sified, every hUl laid out in a
series of ten-aces planted with rice
and barley. The conspicuous cone-
shaped hill which seems, fi'om the
vill. of Koch i, to block up the mouth
of the valley, is called Shimoda
Fuji. Three cho from Kochi stands
the hamlet of Ilendaijl (Inn, Yoshi-
mura), noted for its hot springs,
which make it preferable to Shimo-
da as a stopping-place, the distance
between the two occupying only
J hr. by jiniikisha. Beyond Een-
daiji, the valley widens till it forms
an extensive ojien plain before
reaching
Shimoda (Inns, Matsumoto-ya,
Awaman-ro,) a town compactly
biult and regularly laid out. The
situation of Shimoda is such
as to command a healthy climate,
owing to the dryness of the soil
and the fi-esh sea-breezes. The
harbour, though small, is safe and
convenient. There is also an inner
anchorage for small junks and
boats, which is connected with the
Nozugawa, being artificially con-
structed by means of dykes and a
breakwater. From Shimoda is ex-
ported most of the stone employed
for the new constructions in Toky5.
It comes from extensive quarries at
Sawada, near Kawazu-no-hama,
about 3^ 7-i distant.
Shimoda was first visited in 1S54 by
Commodore Perry and the ships of the
United St;ites squadron. By the treaty
which he concluded, it was constituted an
open port for American shipping ; and
here Mr. Townsend Harris, the American
minister, resided until the substitution of
Kanagawa as a trading port in 1859. This
change was motived by an earthquake
and huge tidal wave which rendered the
harbour useless for large ships and
overwhelmed the town. The limit of the
tidal wave is marked by the spot on which
the Normal School now stands. The graves
of some Americans buried here during the
fifties are still shown at Gyokuseuji, a
temple 40 miu. walk from the town.
The easiest way to quit Shimoda
is by small steamer to Atami, call-
ing at two or three intermediate
places. The itinerary of the coast
road both to Atami and to Numazu
will be found at the end of the
next section.
3. — The Bay or Enouea. Round
THE Coast of Izu.
The Bay of Enoura affords good
sea-bathing. The accommodation,
too, in Japanese style, is excellent
at Ushibuse (Inn, Mishima-kwan),
25 min. by jiniikisha from Numa-
zu, and at Shizu-ura (Inn, Hoyo-
kwan), a little fiu-ther on in an
ancient pine-gfove by the shore.
This whole stretch of coast as far
as Mito is singularly beautiful.
It is possible to walk round
the entire peninsula of Izu by fol-
lowing the i^ath that skirts the
coast, — a journey which, though
fatiguing, is extremely pretty in a
characteristically .Taiwanese way,
and quite off the beaten track. It
is a good plan to reUeve the mono-
tony of such a lengthy walking
tour by taking boat over certain
portions of the way, especially that
between Inatoii and ltd, where the
rugged coast-hne is seen to better
advantage from the sea. Indeed,
steamers may be availed of the
whole way ; but in making plans,
it should never be forgotten that
this apparently more rapid method
of conveyance affords no punctu-
ality and but little comfort. The
path continually winds up and
down the cliffs along the sea-shore,
passing a succession of picttu'esque
nooks, bays, and islets with rocky
caves and pinnacles. Of these the
most noted is Doijashima, to ■sisit
which hire a boat at Matsttzaki.
[From the latter place there also
runs a hiUy road to Yuga-
shima, in the centre of the
l)eninsida, 8 ri.']
Boute 8. — Vries Maud.
165
The deep bay to the S. must be
crossed by ferry fi'om Ko-ura to
Mera. All along the coast from
Shimoda to Atami, the volcano of
Oshima and the smaller isles of
Izu are constantly in sight. The
usual country accommodation,
with excellent fish, is everywhere
obtainable. If the trip be made in
winter, — the month of December is
recommended, — it may be advan-
tageous to do it in the reverse
direction, in order to have the
prevailing winds in one's favom*.
The following is the
Itinerary.
NUMAZUto:— Pd Cho 31.
Enoura 1 31 4^-
Mito 2 5 5^
Tachibo 1 24 4
Heda 2 20 6^
Toi 3 — 7i
Tago 5 2 12^
MATSUZAKI... 2 18 6
Nagatsuro 5 — 12 J
SHEVIODA 4 18 11
Kawazu-no-
hama 3 20 8|
Inatori 1 29 4.^
Naramoto (near
Atagawa) 1 27 44-
Yawatano 2 27 6|
ITO{Wada) 3 10 8
TJsami 1 10 3
Ajiro 2 ■ — 5
ATAMI 2 18 G
Total 47 7 115^
The best places to stop at are
Heda, MatsuzaM, Shimoda, Atagawa
(Inn Tsuchi-ya, 8 rho from \ili.),
Ito, and Atami, there being hot
springs at most of these places.
From Atami one may reach Kozu
on the Tokaido Railway by the
itinerary (reversed) given at the
beginning of this roxite (p. 161).
4. — Feom Yugashima to Atami.
This is a pleasant day and a
half's walk from the centre of the
peninsula to the sea at Ito (Inn,
Yamada-ya), where spend the first
night, and thence along the coast
to Atami. Two passes have to be
crossed, the first — the Nagano-toge
— a climb of 40 min. immediately
on leaving Yugashima, and the
other — the Hiekawa-toge — some-
what shorter, just before descend-
ing to Ito. The coast road is also
hilly, affording charming views.
The Itinerary is as follows :
YUGASHIMA to:— Pd Cho M.
Nagano 20 ' 1^
Harabd 2 — 5
Hiekawa 1 19 3|
Ito(Wada) 2—5
ATAMI 28 14
Total 11 31 29
ROUTE 8.
Veies Island.
"Vries Island, called Izu no 0-
shima by the Japanese, is the largest
and most accessible of the Izu no
Shichi-to, or Seven Isles of Izu, which
stretch away for over 100 m. in
a southerly dii'ection from near the
entrance of Tokyo Bay to 33° lat. N,
Its gi-eatest length is 10 m. ; its
breadth in the broadest part, 5^ m.
It is situated 15 m. from the nearest
point of Izu, and 28 J m. from Misaki
and Sagami. The ever-smoking vol-
cano on Vries Island is sighted by
all ships bound for Y'okohama. The
names of the other six islands axe
Toshima, Niishima, Kdzushima,
Miyake, Mikura, and Hachijo.
In ancient days Eastern Japan, then
aemi-barbarous, was used as a place of
banishment for criminals expelled from
the central part of the empire, that is to say
Nara, Kyoto, and theii- enyirous, where
the Mikado held his Court. When the
mainland of E. Japan became civilised, the
islands alone continued to be used as con-
vict settlements, and they retained this
character till quite recent times. There
were exiles living on Vries as late as the
166
Route 8. — Vries Island.
end of the 18th eenturj-. On English
charts, Hachijo (misspelt Fatsisio), the
southernmost of the group, is sometimes
stated to be "a place of exile for the
grandees of Japan." But it is a mistake
to suppose that Hachijo was peculiar in
this respect, or that grandees were the
only class of persons transported thither.
The most noted of the many exiles to
Vries was the famous archer Tametomo,
who was banished there in 1156, and
whose jirowesa forms a favourite subject
with Japanese romance writers and artists.
The current English name of Vries Island
is derived from that of Captain Martin
Gerritsz Vries, a Dutch navigator who
discovered it in 1643. Vries Island was
noted until recent years for its peculiar
dialect, and for the retention of curious
old customs. Few remnants of these
now survive, excepting the co/J^wre of the
women and their habit of carrying loads
on the head.
Small steamers ply to Vries Island
six times monthly from Teppozu,
in Tokyo.
The best season for the trip is
early spring, the next best being
winter.
There are six "sillages on the
island, all situated on the coast,
and named respectively Motomura
(more correctly Niijima), Nomashi,
Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, and Okada.
Of these Motomiu'a is the best to
stop at, whilst Habu has the ad-
vantage of possessing a picturesque
little harbour — the submerged
crater of an ancient volcano — and
is therefore the easiest to take ship
from when departing. There are
no inns on Vries Island, excepting
a poor one at Motomura ; but ac-
commodation can be obtained at
the house of the Headman {Kocho)
of each village. There are no
vehicles of any kind, and but few
pack-horses. The distances along
the road or path connecting the
rillages are approximately as fol-
lows (the estimate is that given by
the local officials, and seems to be
a rather liberal one) : — •
Ri Cho M.
Senzu to Okada 1 — 2^
Okada to Motomura 2 ■ — 5
Motomura to Nomashi... 1 — 2 J
Nomashi to Sashikiji 3 — 7\
Sashikiji to Habu 19 H
For the most part, the road runs
at some distance from the coast,
which it only rejoins on nearing
the villages ; and there are also a
number of paths in all directions,
used by the inhabitants for bring-
ing down tire-wood fiom the hill-
sides. Usually the way lies through
a low wood of camellia, skimmia,
and other evergreens, and some-
times, as for instance between
Motomixra and Nomashi, along a
fern-clad dell. Pheasants and
woodcock are abundant.
There is no road round the E.
coast from Habu to Senzu ; but the
distance is approximately 5 ri, and
the way leads over the desolate
slope of the volcano by which the
whole centre of the island is occu-
pied.
The name of this volcano is
Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. From its
summit smoke perpetually issues,
and it is subject to frequent erup-
tions. The nearest point on the
coast to the summit of the moun-
tain is Nomashi, biit the ascent
may be undertaken equally well
from Motomura. The climb re-
quires from 2| to 3 hrs., and the
whole expedition, including stoj)-
l^ages, can easily be made during
a forenoon. Passing through the
\illage, the ascent, as made from
Motomura, leads for the first hour
through a wood, and then emerges
on to volcanic scorite, where no-
thing grows but small tufts of
grass and dwarf alder. The emi-
nence seen ahead to the 1. and
called Kagami-bata, is not the sum-
mit of the mountain, but only a
portion of the wall of an immense
ancient crater, in the midst of
which stands the present cone,
with its much smaller though stiQ
considerable tlimensions. From
this point it is a 5 min. Avalk to the
lip of the ancient crater, which here
forms a flat oval waste of minute
scoria?, with stones scattered about
the sm-face. Its greatest length on
this side is estimated at nearly 1
m., and it is surrounded by low
BoiUe 1). — Fuji and Neighbourhood.
167
broken hillocks of lava, against
■whose sides the sand is piled up.
Half an hour's walk across this
desolate waste, where not even a
blade of grass is to be seen, brings
Tis to the little torii marking the
Nomashi approach to the moun-
tain, and forming the limit beyond
which women are not allowed to
proceed. From this x^oint there is
a fine view. In front, and most
conspicuous of all, are the other
islands and islets of the Izu group,
the curious i^yramidal Toshima,
with Shikine and Kozu behind ; to
the 1. of Toshima the longer and
lower oiitlinc of Niijima, with little
Udoma in front. To the 1. again,
but considerably more distant, are
the larger islands of Miyake and
Mikura, while on exceptionally clear
days the outline of Hachijo— so at
least it is asserted — can be descried.
To the W. are seen Amagi-san and
other jjortions of the peninsula of
Izu, the towering cone of Fuji, with
the lesser Hakone and Oyama
ranges ; to the N. Misaki in Sagami,
and to the N.E. the outline of the
peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu, which
shuts in Tokyo Bay from the open
Pacific. The climb hence to the
top of the mountain takes \ hr.
The width of the present crater at
the summit has been estiiuated at
f m.
Mihara may also be ascended
from Habu or from Senzu, the climb
on that side of the island being,
however, much longer and more
difficult.
Excepting the ascent of the vol-
cano, there are few walks in the
island deserving of mention. The
collector of ferns will, however, find
numerous and beautiful species, not
only between Motomura and No-
mashi, but also at a place called
Bdzu-(jn-Uora, i.e., the Priest's Dell,
about 1 m. out of Habu in the
direction of Senzu. A spare day at
Habu may also be devoted to walk-
ing along the coast towards Senzu ;
but the vapom- spring situated on
the mountain-side between the two
places, of which the visitor will be
told by the natives, is at a distance
— 5 ri — which makes it difficult of
access in one day, on account of the
arduoxis nature of the gi'ound ; and
there is not even a shed in which to
take shelter. This spring is resort-
ed to in cases of wounds and
bruises, the friends of the sick
person erecting some temporary
cover. Futago-yama, the double-
crested mountain whose red hue,
caused b}"^ the presence of brittle
lava of that colour, is so conspic-
uous from Habu, is a mere spur
of the volcano offering no special
interest.
ROUTE 9.
Fuji and Neighbourhood.
1. genekal infoemation. 2. as-
cent fkom gotemba station. 3.
ascent fkom mukayama. 4. as-
cent fkom subashiei. 5. ascent
feom toshida. 6. ascent fkom
hito-ana. 7. ascent fkom suya-
ma. 8. summit of fuji. 9. cik-
cuit of fuji half-way up.
1. — Genekal Information.
Time. — Mere hurried ascent of
Fuji and back to Yokohama, 1 day
and night ; move comfortably in 2
days and 1 night, which latter is
spent at one of the huts on the
mountain side.
The pleasantcst plan is to com-
l)ine the ascent of Fuji with a visit
to the Miyanoshita-Hakone district,
devoting at least a week to the en-
tire trip, and climbing the moun-
tain during whichever portion of
that time seems to promise the most
settled weather. The ascent is
usually made between the loth
168
Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood.
Jialy and lOth September, the huts
to accommodate pilgrims being
closed during the rest of the year,
and the coolie giiides (goriki) fear-
ing to go up so long as any snow
remains on the path. The charge
at the huts is 1 yen per night. The
best time is from the 25th July to
the 10th August.
The shortest way of reaching Fuji
from Yokohama is to take rail as
far as Gotemba station, 3 hrs.,
where guides, horses, foreign sad-
dles, as also rough quilts and char-
coal to ward off the cold air at
night in the huts on the mountain
top, can be procured. The traveller
miast bring his own food. Instead
of staying at Gotemba and making
the ascent thence, many prefer to
push on 6J- m. by tramway to
Subashiri at the E. base of the
mountain, whence the climb is
rather easier. Travellers from the
Kobe direction might ahght either
at Iwabuchi or at Suziikawa, and
ascend from Murayama, it being 3
ri from each of those stations to
Omiya [Inn, Omiya-tei). One goes
from Iwabuchi to Omiya by jiniiM-
sha ; fi-om Suzukawa to Omiya by
tram in IJ hr., passing through the
town of Yoshiwara. There is a
short cut from Y'^oshiwara for pedes-
trians. Those coming fi-om Kofu
will naturally ascend from Yoshida.
It is also possible to ascend from
Suyama, S.E., and Hito-ana, S.W.;
but these last two have nothing
special to recommend them. Details
of the ascent from Gotemba station,
etc., are given below. Numbers of
travellers choose rather to reach
Fuji from Miyanoshita or Hakone,
by walking to Gotemba over the
Otome-t5ge (see p. 151). In this
case, they can provide themselves
beforehand with all necessaries at
the hotel. It is always ad\'isable
to take plenty of warm clothing,
as the temperatm-e falls below
freezing-point at night on the
summit of the mountain even
during the hottest period of sum-
mer. It is also piTident to take
an extra supply of food, as parties
have occasionally been detained on
the mountain side by stress of wea-
ther, unable either to reach the sum-
mit or to descend to the base. It
is possible, by sleeping at Gotemba
station or at Murayama, and start-
ing at dawn, to reach the summit
and descend again in a single day
(in local Japanese parlance hi-
yama, that is, "day-mountain").
Counting the working day as
having 15 hrs. (4 a.m. to 7 p.m.),
this would allow 10 hrs. for the
ascent, including short stoppages,
2 hrs. at the top, and 3 hrs. for the
descent. The shortest time in
which the ascent and descent have
been known to be made from
Gotemba station, including stop-
pages, is 9 hrs. 8 min., of which 6
hrs. 50 min. were occupied in the
ascent. But persons less desirous
of "breaking the record" than of
really seeing what they have come
so far to see, are strongly lurged to
pursue the following course : —
leave Gotemba station or Mura-
yama before daylight, — say at 2
A.M., — thus including the glory of
sunrise on the way up. After
sunrise, do the remainder of the
ascent slowly, reaching the summit
about midday. Having established
himself in one of the huts on
the summit, the traveller should
go down into the crater, make the
roimd of the crater, and spend the
night at the top. This will afford
the chance of a sunset and of a
second sunrise, after which the
descent can be at once begun.
The descent will take most people-
from 4^ to 5 hrs. The gi-eat ad-
vantage of this plan is that it
multiplies the chances of a good
view from the summit, — such views
being much more often obtained at
sunrise and sunset than in the
middle of the day, and being by no
means certain at any time.
Apropos of views, may be mentioned
the Japanese term Fuji-mi Jii-san-shu, that
is, the Thirteen Provinces from which-
General Information.
169
Fuji is visible. These areMusashi, BosLu,
Kazusa, Shimosa, Hitachi, Shimotsuke,
Kotsuke, Shinshu, Koshu, Totomi, Suru-
ga, Izu, and Sagami. "As a matter of
fact." sayn Kev. Walter Weston, in his
book on the Japanese Alps, "though it
is not generally known, Fuji can be seen,
from mountain tops, in several other pro-
vinces still further distant, e. t/., Yari-ga-
take and Tate-yama in Hida, Ena-san in
Mino, Asama-yama (not the great volcano)
in Ise, and others."
Fuji is miich more easily ascend-
ed than many mountains far in-
ferior in height, as it pi'esents no
obstacles in the shape of rocks or
undergrowth. The first 6,0n0 ft.
of the ascent can moreover be
performed on horseback, after
which the accomplishment of the
remainder is merely a question of
steady perseverance. The distance
to the summit fi'om the point call-
ed Uma-gaeshi, is unequally divided
into ten parts called go, which are
subdivided in some cases into
halves called go-shaku. The hrst
station is thus Irhi-go-me, the
second Ni-gd-me, and so on, the
last before the summit is reached
being Ku-gu-me, or the ninth.
The go is generally used as a measure of
capacity. One explanation given by the
Japanese of the application of this method
of calculation to Fuji is that the mountain
resembles in shape a heap of dry rice
poured out of a measure, and that con-
sequently its subdivisions must corres-
pond to the fractions of the latter. How-
ever this may be, the go is used as a tenth
part of the li throughout the island of
Kyushii, and traces of the same usage
linger in Shikoku.
At most of these stations, as also
at the top, are huts where accom-
modation for the night, boiled rice,
and water can be obtained.
The number of coolies required
will of course depend on the
amount of baggage to be carried.
When ladies are making the ascent,
it is ad\'isable to have a spare man
or two to pull and push them
i^p when tired. Stout gaiters may
advantageously be worn during
the descent, to prevent sand and
ashes from getting inside the boots.
Fuji, often called Fuji-san, that is
Mount Fuji, and by the poets Fvji-nn-
yama, that is the Mountain of Fuji,
whence the form Fusiyama often used by
Europeans, stands between the provinces
of Suruga and Koshu, and is the highest,
the most beautiful, and the most famous
mountain in Japan. The height of Ken-
ga-mine, the westernmost and highest
point of the crater wall, is given by the
Cieological Survey at 12,;395 ft.
Though now quiescent, Fuji must still
be accounted a volcano. Frequent men-
tion is made in Japanese literature of the
smoke of Fuji, which, if the expressions
used by poets may be taken as indicating
facts, must have formed a constant
feature in the landscape at least as late as
the lith century. An author who flou-
rished about the end of the 9th century
says : "There is a level space at the sum-
mit, about 1 ri square, having a depres-
sion in the centre shaped like a cauldron,
at the bottom of which is a pond. This
cauldron is usually filled with vapour
of a pure green (or blue) colour, and the
bottom appears like boiling water. The
steam is visible at a great distance from
the mountain." In 967 a small mountain
was formed at the eastern base of Fuji.
This was probably the small hump called
Ko-Fuji, on the 1. of the second station
on the Gotemba ascent. A traveller's
journal of the year 1021 speaks of smoke
rising from the slightly flattened summit,
while at night fire was seen to issue from
the crater. Eruptions also occurred in
1082 and 1C19. The most recent one
began on the 10th December, 1707, and
lasted with intervals till the 22nd
January, 1708. This being the peiiod
known in Japanese chronology as llbd,
the name of Honi-zan was given to the
hump then formed on the upper slope of
the S. side of the mountain. According
to another account, a isrojectiou had
always existed in this place, but was
rendered more conspicuous by this latest
eruption. Be this as it may, it is recorded
that the ashes lay ft. deep on the
Tokaido near Hara and loshiwara, and
even fell in Yedo to a depth of C inches.
Even at the present day, small quantities
of steam continue to issue through the
ashes on the E. or Subashiri side of the
mountain, just outside the lij) of the
crater.
Enormous must have been the torrents
of lava that have flowed from Fuji on
different occasions. Fifteen miles from
the summit in a direct line, at the vill.
of Matsuno on the r. bank of the Fuji-
kawa, is the termination of one of these
streams, while another may be studied
on the N.E. side of the base, between
Yoshida and Fuuatsu. But most of the
lava has long since been covered up by
the deep deposits of ashes and scoriae,
and only becomes visible here and there
where it is denuded by the streams
which fuiTow the lower part of the
mountain.
170
Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood,
An effort was made by a bold meteoro-
logist, Mr. Nonaka. to spend the winter of
1895-6 on the top. His friends, fearing
the result, sent up a relief party before
Christmas, which found him and his
courageous wife in such terrible plight
that they had to be carried down, and
their lives were despaired of for a time.
Fuji ranks high among the many sacred
mountains in Japan, and is crowded with
pilgrims duriug the brief summer season,
who repair to the summit to worship, and
to purchase charms sold by the priests.
Most of these pilgrims belong to the pea-
sant class. In former years, women were
debarred from ascending to the top of all
these sacred peaks. On Fuji the eighth
station was their furthest limit. This pro-
hibition no longer applies here, though it
has been re-introduced in some localities.
The aspect of Fuji has so impressed the
national mind that many other hills of
like shape derive their uame from it.
Thus we have the Bungo Fuji, Tsugaru
Fuji, etc. The greatest distance at which
Fuji has been seen at sea by the compilers
is 108 miles.
Fuji stands by itseli:, rising with
one majestic sweep from a plain
almost smTounclecl by mountains.
The S. side slopes right down to
the sea, its outline being broken
only on the S. E. by the rugged
peaks of Ashitaka-yama. On the N.
and W. rise steep granite ranges,
stretching away from the Misaka-
toge nearly to the junction of the
Shibakawa with the Fujikawa.
Against these mountains the show-
ers of ashes which were ejected
from the crater have piled them-
selves up, and confined in their
separate basins the waters of
Motosu, Shoji, and other lakes.
The E. side is shut in by volcanic
mountains of undetermined origin,
beginning near Subashiri, and ex-
tending southwards into the
peninsula of Izu. Among them
lies Lake Hakone, with the nu-
merous hot springs of Miyanoshita,
Ashinoyu, Atami, and their neigh-
bourhood. The base of the
mountain is cultivated up to a
height of about 1,500 ft., above
wliich spreads a wide gi-assy moor-
land (suso-no) to 4,000 ft., where
the forest commences. The upper
limit of this varies considerably,
being lowest on the E. side, name-
ly, about 5,500 ft. on the ascent
from Gotemba, and 7,900 ft. on the
Murayama side. But on the W.
face, between the Yoshida and
Murayama ascents, and looking
down over the plain round Hito-
ana, it must extend as high as
9,000 ft. or more. This difference
is no doubt due in a great measure
to the comparatively recent distur-
bance on the S. E. side, which
caused the present conformation
of Hoei-zan, when the greater part
of the ashes thrown out fell in the
direction of Gotemba, destroying
the forest, and leaving a desert
waste which only a long lapse of
years can again cover with vegeta-
tion. To the same cause, namely,
comparatively recent volcanic ac-
tion, must be ascribed the almost
entire absence of those Alpine
plants which abound on the sum-
mits of other high mountains in
Japan, such as Ontake, Shirane in
Koshti, and Yatsu-ga-take. Above
the forest lies a narrow zone of
bushes, chiefly dwarf larch. A few
species of hardy plants are found
up to a height of 10,000 ft. on some
parts of the cone.
2. — Ascent fkom Gotemba
Station.
Gotemba Station {Inn, Fuji-
ya) is 12 cho from the old vill.
of Gotemba ; and there is no longer
any necessity for going to the latter
and thence on to Subashiri, as was
the general practice in pre-railway
times, there being now a threct and
shorter way up the mountain from
the station by what is called the
Nakabata route, avoiding both
those villages. If the traveller in-
tends to spend the night at Gotem-
ba station, he should try to arrive
early, so as to avoid difficulty in
obtaining accommodation at the
inn. In order to economise one's
strength, it is advisable to take
horses for the first 2J hrs. of the
ascent across an open and gently
rising country. This takes one be-
AsceiH froui Gotemba, Murcojama, and Subashiri. 171
yond Uma-fiaeshi* where horses
are supposed to be left, to Tarobo,
where they are generally left.
Indeed, there is no difficulty in
riding as far as No. 2 station. The
distances of this first part of the
ascent are given as follows : —
GOTEMBAto: Hi Chd M.
Nakabata 1 8 3f
Uma-gaeshi 2 — 5
Tar6b5 28 2
No. 2 station (45 min.) — —
Total 4 — Klf
The ordinary basha is also avail-
able as far as a tea-shed called
Ichi-ri-matsu, 2 ri from Gotemba,
and, if required, will await one's
return at Uma-gaeshi.
At Tarobo (so called from a
goblin who is there worshipped),
staves are sold to help climbers on
their way up. These staves are
engi-aved with the name of the
moimtain, and can have a further
inscription added by the priests
who dwell at the summit.
Though Fuji, as already stated,
is theoretically divided on all its
sides into ten parts, some of the
stations no longer exist in practice,
— that is, have no rest-huts, — while
others are subdivided. On the
Gotemba ascent, Nos. 5, 6, 8, and
top are the best. This should be
borne in mind, in case of the
necessity of calling a halt for the
night midway.
The heights of the chief stations
are as follows : —
No.
3.
7,085 ft
4.
7,937 „
5.
8,659 „
G.
9,317 ,.
8.
10,693 „
From No. 3 to 5 the path sldrts
Hoei-zan, where the steep portion
of the ascent begins. The first lava
* Uma-gaeshi, lit. " horse send back." is
the general name for that point on a
mountain beyond which it is not custom-
ary to ride.
crops out after No. 5, affording
better foothold. At No. 6, a path
turns off to Hoei-zan. Above No.
8 the climb becomes more fatiguing,
being now over loose cinders. From
here, too, patches of snow will be
found in rifts in the lava rock ; but
there are nowhere any actual snow-
fields to be traversed. At No. 10—
the top — there are three stone huts,
fairly roomy and comfortable.
Should they all be occupied by
pUgrims, the traveller must walk
round to the huts on the Subashiri
side of the lip of the crater, about
J m. distant.
The descent as far as No. 7 is
the same as the ascent. At No. 7,
it diverges to the r. down a kind of
glissade (Jap. hasldri) of loose sand,
over which one may skim at sitch a
rate as to reach No. 2^- in less than
1 hr. From Tardbo onwards, the
descent will occupy nearly as much
time as was required for the as-
cent. The entire journey down
from the summit to Gotemba sta-
tion can be accomjiLished in 5 hrs.
3. — ^x\sCENT FEOM MuKAYAMA.
From Murayama (Tnn, by Fuji-
masa) to the Uma-gaeshi, or riding
limit on this side of the mountain,
is a distance of 3 ri 8 chd. Thence
onward it is necessary to walk. Of
the varioiTs stations. No. 5 is the
most to be recommended, though
all are fair, the ascent from Mura-
yama having long been that most
l^atronised by the native pilgrims,
and therefore styled the Omote-
guchi, or Front Entrance, to the
mountain. This ascent has the
advantage of offering more shade
than the others. Some experienced
climbers therefore recommend go-
ing up this way, and returning on
the steeper Gotemba side.
4.— Ascent from Subashiri.
At Subashiri, the inn to which
foreigners are generally taken is
Yoneyama ; there are others.
172
Route 9. —Fuji and Neighbourhood.
all indifferent. The road to the
Uma-gaeshi on this side leads for 2
ri up through the forest, whence it
is another 2 ri to a place caUed
Chujiki-ba, where a halt for refresh-
ments is generally made. This is
8 chd below station No. 1. The
best stations are 2, 6, and especially
No. 8 and the top. At No. 9 is a
small shrine known as Mukai
Sengen, that is, the Goddess of
Fuji's Welcome, intimating to the
weary wayfarer that he is approach-
ing the goddess's sanctum.
5. — Ascent fkom Yoshida.
Yosliida is an lanusually long
YUlage, divided into an upper por-
tion (Kami-Yoshida) and a lower
portion (Shimo-Yoshida). From
Kami Yoshida {Lins, Osakabe, Ko-
giku) the way to Uma-gaeshi, the
2nd station, as far as which it is
possible to ride, leads iip an avenue.
The upper edge of the forest is not
quitted till No. 5 is reached. Thus
the view on the way up is less good
by this route than on the Gotemba
side, but there is more shade.
6. — Ascent fbom Hito-ana.
The ascent from Hito-ana (poor
inn) is laborious, and the -siew
much spoilt by the dense forest
through which the track lies. It
is therefore not recommended.
Travellers wishing to visit the
beautiful waterfalls of Kami-Ide
(see Eoute 10) might, however, find
it worth their while to descend on
this side. If their luggage is light,
they can take it with them over the
mountain. If not, they must allow
plenty of time for sending it round
the base.
7. — Ascent fkom Suyama.
This is an alternative way for
persons staying at Hakone, who
can reach Suyama via the Lake
and the Fiiliara Pass in 6 to 8 hrs.
CooUes for the whole trip, includ-
ing the ascent of Fuji, shoiald be
engaged at Hakone, as the re-
sources of Suyama are limited,
though there is a tea-house (Wa-
tanabe Hideo). But the ascent
from Gotemba is to be preferred.
The path iip Fuji from Suyama
joins the path up from Gotemba at
station No. 3.
8. — Summit of Fuji.
The Summit of the mountain
consists of a series of peaks sur-
rountling the crater, the diameter
of which is not far short of 2,000 ft.
The descent into it, down the loose
talus of rock and cinders close to
the huts at the top of the Mura-
yama ascent, is qiiite easy ; still it
is advisable to take a guide. The
bottom is reached in 20 min. The
floor, which is formed of cinders,
inclines sUghtly from W. to E., and
is intersected by small stream-beds,
which at the E. end terminate
among the loosely piled lava masses
forming the core of the mountain.
All round, except where the descent
is made, rise precipitous rocky
walls, fi'om which large pieces
detach themselves from time to
time with a loud cracking sound
like musketry. On the W. side,
immediately under Ken-ga-mine,
there is iisually a large snow-slope.
The depth of the crater has been
variously calculated at 416 ft., 548
ft., and 584 ft. The return to the
edge will take about 25 min.
Before dawn the pilgrims betake
themselves to Kpn-ga-inine, to await
the sun's rising. As it approaches
the horizon and all the clouds
aboiit it glow with the most bril-
liant hues, the feeling of longing
expectation seems almost to over-
come them ; but as soon as the
orb appears, they greet it devoutly
with muttered prayers and the
rubbing of rosaries.
Ken-ga-mine commands a mar-
vellously extensive view. To the
S. stretches the Gulf of Suruga,
shut in on the E. by the lofty
peninsula of Izu, and confined on
Summit of Fuji.
173
the W. by Mio-no-Matsubara at the
end of the long range dividing the
valley of the Abekawa from that
of the Fujikawa. S. W. is the
broad pebbly bed of the Fujikawa,
its course above the point where it
crosses the Tokaido being hidden
by the lower hills. Westwards are
seen all the lofty peaks of the
border range of Koshu and Shin-
shu, beginning with the angular
granite obelisk of Koma-ga-take
and its lesser neighbours, Jiz5 and
H5-o-zan, then the three summits
of Shirane, known as Kaigane, Ai-
no-take, and Nodori, the Koma-ga-
take of Shinshu rising between the
Tenryu-gawa and the Kisogawa,
and so on to Ena-san in Mino and
the top of Shichimen-zan near
Minobu. Further to the r., ex-
tending northwards, comes the
great range dividing far-off Hida
from Shinshu, amongst whose
peaks may be distinguished Nori-
kura, Yari-ga-take, and, further
remote in Etchu, the volcanic
summits of Tateyama. Gradually
moving E. again, along the north-
ern horizon, we distinguish the
mountains near Nagano, — Ken-no-
mine and the extinct volcano of
Myoko-zan. Nearer in the fore-
ground rise the numerous sum-
mits of Yatsu-ga-take ; and then
glancing further N., we perceive
Asama-yama's smoking crater, the
mountains about the Mikuni Pass,
and next, all the Nikko mountains,
— Shirane, Nantai-zan, and lesser
peaks. E. of Yatsu-ga-take is seen
Kimpu-zan, easily known by its
rounded shoulder and the pillar of
rock at the summit ; then Yakushi
and Mitsumine in Chichibu, till
the eye loses itself in a confusion of
lower ridges. On the E. side of the
crater, from almost any point that
may be chosen, the eye rests on a
prospect less extensive indeed, but
surpassing this in beauty. Far
away across the plain, is distinctly
visible the double top of Tsukuba in
Hitachi, while further S. we descry
the outer edge of the T6ky5 plain,
with T6ky5 lying far up the bay ;
then in succession Capes Sagami
and Svmosaki, Vries Island, the Gulf
of Sagami, and nearer in the fore-
ground beautiful Lake Hakone
peacefully embosomed among green
hiUs.
Few will be fortunate enough to
obtain a perfectly clear view from
the summit of Fuji ; but the best
chances are just before and at sun-
rise. "Nor," says an authority,
" will the pilgrim be wholly fortu-
nate unless he sees the superb cloud
effects which the mountain affords.
These are most likely to be enjoyed
in ordinary summer weather, be-
tween noon and 6 o'clock in the
evening, and they are truly magni-
ficent. The summit of the moun-
tain remains clear, but its shoulders
and waist are suiTounded by billowy
masses of dense white vapour of
indescribable splendour. Here and
there a momentary break may per-
mit a glimpse of the earth beneath ;
but usually nothing can be seen
landward but this vast ocean of
cloud, amid which the peak stands
as the only island in the world.
Turning seaward, the ocean itself
can be seen over the circumambient
vapour, and affords a striking con-
trast to the turmoil and restless
change of form of the clouds them-
selves."
A curious phenomenon may also
sometimes be witnessed at sunrise
or sunset. As the sun's rays ajjpear
above the horizon, or vanish below
it, the shadow of Fuji (kage-Fuji)
is thrown in deep outline on
the clouds and mist, which at that
hour clothe the range of mountains
to the west. The beautiful pheno-
menon commonly known as " the
Spectre of the Brocken," may be
seen from the lip of the crater at
sunrise or sunset under favourable
conditions of mist. The spectator
beholds his enormously magnified
and transfigured self, — his head the
centre of a circular bow or halo,
with the prismatic colours in con-
centric rings.
174
Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood.
Descending again from Ken-ga-
mine, the path passes vinder it, and
just above the steep talus called
Oya shirazu Ko shirazu (*' Heedless
of Parent or Child"), from the
notion that people in danger of
falling over the edge of the crater
would not heed even their nearest
relatives if sharers of the peril.
The name occurs in similarly peri-
lous places in manj" parts of Japan.
Continuing N., the path skirts the
edge of the cone, passing a hiige
and precipitous gorge which ap-
pears to extend downwards to the
very base of the _mountain. This
gorge is called Osaim, the lower
limit of which may be some (i,()00 ft.
iibove the sea, or only half-way from
the summit. Passing across the
flank of the liai-uca, or Thunder
Rock, the imth goes outside the cra-
ter wall, ascends the Shalca no
Wari-ishi (Shaka's Cleft Rock), and
leaving Shaka-ga-take — the second
loftiest peak^ — behind, descends to
the Kimmei-sui ("Famous Golden
Water "), a spring of ice-cold water
situated on the Aat shelf between
the N. edge of the crater and the
outer wall. Ascending again, the
path passes the row of huts at the
top of the ascent from Yoshida
and Subashiri, and reaches a
iorii commanding the best view
of the crater. It then turns again
to the 1., and goes outside the wall
of the crater, underneath Kwan-
nou-(j(i-take. Here the interesting
phenomenon may be observed of
steam still issuing from the soil in
several places, one of which is
close to the path, while another
lies near at hand on the 1., about
5U ft. down the exterior of the
cone, and a third is seen imme-
diately underneath a wall of rock
50 yds. ahead. A few inches l>elow
the surface, the heat is great
enough to boil an egg. Beyond this
point, the path crosses a dej)ression
known as Seishi-ga-kubo, ascends
E. the Sai-no-kawara, dotted with
stone cairns raised in honour of
Jizo, descends to the Gim-mei-sid.
(" Famous Silver Water "), at the top
of the Gotemba ascent, and pass-
ing under the low peak named
Koma-ga-take, reaches the huts at
the top of the path from Mura-
yama. Between this last point and
Ken-ga-mine, is a small crater
named Konnshiro-ya-ike, accessible
from the N. The total distance
round the large crater is said by the
Japanese to be 1 ri, or 2^ miles ;
but this is doubtless an exaggera-
tion. An interesting hour may be
devoted to making the circuit,
which will allow for pauses at all
the best points of view.
9. — The Chudo-Meguei, ok Cir-
cuit OF Fuji half-way up.
This wallv is a favourite with
native lovers of the picturesque.
It is easy, involves no danger, and
commands a splendid panoramic
view over the country in the im-
mediate vicinity, which gradually
unfolds itself before the eyes of the
spectator as he moves along. The
path encircles Fuji at heights vary-
ing from 9,490 ft. on the Gotemba
side (which it intersects at station
No. 6) to 7,450 ft. on the Yoshida
side. It is best to turn to the 1. on
starting from the above-mentioned
No. 6 station, because the path
descends a rapid slope of loose sand
from the ridge of Hoei-zan towards
the W., which would be very fatigu-
ing if taken in the ojjposite direc-
tion. The path proceeds along the
narrow ridge of Hoei-zan, turns
down into the deep hollow formed
by the eruption of 1707-8, crosses
the ridge at its further side to a
broad plateau strewn witli the
cast-off sandals of pilgnms, and
climbs steeply to hut No. 5 on the
Murayama ascent. It then con-
tinues W. over dykes_of lava until
it reaches the great Osawa ravine,
and, descending the mountain to
the 1. of the huge mass of lava
which here projects over the
chasm, passes through a wood of
larch and rhododendron to the S.
Route 10. —Base of Fuji to Shoji and Kami-Ide. 175
edge of the ravine, which is now
crossed. The path onward lies
alternately through the wood and
over the bare northern side of the
cone to the prettily situated temple
of Ko-Mitake, where a tea-shed
affords accommodation for the
night. Shortly beyond this jioint
the path divides, the r. branch,
which should be taken, leading to
No. 5^ on the Yoshida ascent,
whence Lake Yamanaka is well
seen almost due E. Turning off
1. at No. 6, the path winds over
the lava dykes to No. 5 on the
Subashiri ascent, and then by a
gentle gradient back to our start-
ing-point. The time required for
the entire circuit is from 7 to 8 lirs.
ROUTE 10.
KoTJNi) THE Ease of Fuji to Lake
Shoji and the "VVatebfalls of
Kami-Ide. Ashitaka-yama.
Itinerary.
GOTEMBAto:— Bi Cho
Kubashiri 2 23
Yamanaka (Nakano) 2 7
Kami-Yoshida 2 8
Funatsu 1 3
Nagahama (1^ hr.
by boat across
Lake Kawaguchi)
Nishi-no-umi 12
Nemba (1 hr. by
boat across Lake
Nishi-no-umi, 2
men necessary)
SHOJI Hotel (I hr.
by boat) or on
foot round Lake 1 —
Motosu 1 7
Nebara 1 4
Hito-ana 2 4
Kami-Ide 1 8
M.
H
2i
3
3
<^niiya :j g 7*
Suzukawa 3 71
Total 21 12 52}
Plus 2.J> hrs. by boatT
[An alternative way from Goteni-
ba to Shoji, avoiding the Lakes,
leads lia Narusaim. through
the forest, 13 ri in all ; but it
is less pretty, and more of it
must be M^alked.]
There is a tramway from Gotem-
ba to Subashiri, which is to be
extended on to Kami-Yo.shida (Inns,
Osakabe, Kogilvu). One may partly
avail oneself of it and partly walk,
or else take horses the whole way!
Yoshida can be reached the lirst
night, even if the start be made
from Miyanoshita. Shoji is an
easy half-day from Yoshida of
alternate walking and boating.
From Shoji it is necessary eitber to
ride or to walk as far as Omiya,
whence a shabby but swift little
tram-car takes one to Suzukaica,
a station on the Tokaido Eailway!
From Yoshida onwards coolies
form the best means of transport,
as they can be taken in the boat.'
There is a modest in>i_at Kami-Ide,
and a fair one (Omiya-tei) at
Omiya. The whole trip is highly
picturesque, leading, as it does,
along the chain of lakes that half
encircles Fuji's base. The Foreign
Hotel on the little jseninsula of
UnosaM at Shoji is beautifully
situated on the S. side of the lake
(3,160 ft. above sea-level), opposite
the village. The i)lace offers plea-
sant bathing, and an endless variety
of walks amidst unrivalleii scenery.
The most interesting half-day's
expedition from Shoji is to a re-
markable Ice Cave (Kori-no-ana),
which long lay hidden in the dense
forest growth on Fuji's slope at a
height of 3,750 ft. The dimensions
are as follows : —
Length 568feet
.\verage A\-idth ... 36 J „
Height 32 .,
176 Boute 11. — CI I ich ibu and Temple of 3Iiisumine.
The floor is solid ice of ixnknown
thickness. At the far end are a
nnraber of beautiful icicles, and an
unexplored canity down which
the wind constantly rushes. Two
smaller ice eaves exist in the
neighboiu'hood, besides another
cave in which lived and died a
succession of hermits in the olden
time. In this connection it may be
added that Lake Shoji freezes hard
enough in winter for horses to
cross it.
[It is a good day's walk (about
7h ri) from Shoji to Kofu over
the Onna-toge and Kashiwa-
zaka-toge. — More beautiful is
that from Shoji to Yoka-ichiba
(Inn, Wakao-ya), 6 or 8 ri, ac-
cording as one takes the lower
path down the valley of the
Nekko-gawa, or the higher
along the mountain ridge. In
either case one drops down the
Fujikawa a short way by ferry-
boat from Tambara or Kamo-
kari to Yoka-ichiba on the
ojDposite bank.]
Emerging from the forest, and
skirting charming Lake Motosu,
we come out on the open moor
which occupies the whole western
slope of Fuji. The cave of Hito-ana
is hardly worth ttu'ning aside to
see. Very different are the water-
falls of Shira-ito no taki, a lovely
sight at nil seasons ; for even Nikko
has nothing Hke them, as they are
precipitated over a wall of black
lava amidst luxuriant vegetation.
They lie 8 cho from the \'ill. of
Kami-Ide. The two largest, some
85 ft. in height, are called respec-
tively 0-daki and Me-daki, or the
Male and Female Cascades, and
there are more than forty smaller
falls, their children. A few yards
off is another fine cascade, about
100 ft. high and 30 ft. -nide, called
Nen-nen-fuchi j and there are said
to be others yet higher up the
stream. _
On the tram journey from (.)miya
to Suzukawa some large paper fac-
tories, which employ British and
American machinery, are passed at
Iriyamase and Temma.
Suzukawa (see Eoute 23).
Many prefer to make a wider
circuit by taking the beautifiol walk
from Shoji to Yoka-ichiba above
mentioned, whence down the rapids
of the Fujikawa (5 yen for private
boat to Iwabuchi), stopping over
perhaps a day at the temples of
Minobu (see Route 27).
A pedestrian desirous of complet-
ing the circiut of Fuji literally might
ascend Ashitaka-yama from
Hara on the Tokaido Railway ; but
the inn there is poor. The inns at
Numazu are good, and the expedi-
tion thence not much longer,
namely, a short day, — the first hour
Tip as far as Sakashita by jinrikisha
with 2 men, whence on foot to the
summit, which affords a beautiful
and extensive view. The descent
to Suyama for Gotemba entails too
much struggling through tall bam-
boo gi'ass to be recommended.
Ashitaka-yama, 3,950 ft., looks higher
owing to its remarkable shape, — two peaks
joined saddle-wise. Down to the 17th
century wild horses herded on its grassy,
partly forest-covered slope ; and the peas-
antry still believe that bamboo grass
gathered on its summit will cute all the
diseases to which the horse is heir. A
pilgrimage is made to the ruined Shinto
shrine at the top on the 17th January.
The 8th April is a second festival day.
ROUTE 11.
Chichibit and the Tempi,e of
MiTSUMINE.
The district of Chichibu lies in
the W. corner of the province of
Musashi, separated by its moun-
tains from Kotsuke on the N. W.
and Koshii on the S. W. The prin-
cipal town, Omiya (not to be con-
founded with the railway station of
the same name nearer Tokyo), is
most easily reached fi'om Honjo
Temple of Mitsumine.
177
station on the Tokyo-Takasald Kail-
way, basha traversing the distance —
9 ri — in 4^ hrs. After leaving the
plain, the road enters the lesser
hills of the Chichibn range, and the
scenery continues to improve. Nar-
row valleys leading up to various
low passes are entered, where moun-
tain, rock, forest, and river give a
charm to the scene.
Omiya (In7i, Kado-ya) stands
close to Buko-zan, 4,360 ft., the
highest mountain in the district ;
but there is little inducement to
climb it, as the forest with which
it is clothed shuts out almost all
view. The town is noted for its
fairs, which are largely attended
during the season by dealers in raw
sUk and cocoons.
At the hamlet of Kageinori, 20 rho
S. W. of Omiya, a jjath turns off 1.,
leading in ^ hr. to a temple of
Kwannon called IlasJddate-dera,
where is a cave considered the
wonder of the country-side. It
consists of two chief ramifications
in the limestone rock. Inspection,
which will occupy about J hr., is
rendered easy by means of ladders
and planks. The stalactites in the
cave assiime a variety of fantastic
shapes, to which names mostly con-
nected with Buddhism are given,
such as the Lotus-flower, the
Dragon's Head and Tail, the Five
Viscera, etc. A guide is provided
at the temple.
Interesting alike for its beautiful
surroundings and its antiquity is
the temple on Mitsuraine-san, a
mountain 6 ri to the S.W. of Omiya.
A good JLnrDdsha road takes one as
far as the vill. of Niegawa, 3h ri ; the
remainder must be walked. The
cave described above may be visited
on the way by making a slight
detour (say | hr.), that is, by leaving
the road at Kagomori, and rejoining
it again a few cho further on, close
to the bridge called Fuji-bashi over
the Arakawa, up the course of which
river most of the road lies. ^1^-
gawa (fair accommodation) com-
mands a fine view, with Biiko-zan
standing sentinel-like at the mouth
of the valley. Thence the scenery
becomes grander ; the path keeps
along the 1. bank, rising frequently
to cross the spurs of the hills, and
the river winds picturesquely
among thickly wooded slopes rising
on either hand to a height of about
1,000 ft. A remarkable projecting
rock has been cut through at a
spot called Odahara, shortly after
which the path diverges down to a
narrow bridge spanning the liver.
On the opposite side stands a torii
at the entrance to the sacred moun-
tain. An avenue of ancient crypto-
merias marks the remainder of the
way through the thick forest, — a
steep climb of 52 cho, with rest-
houses at intervals, but no distant
view except one down the valley of
the Arakawa.
The temple buildings, which are
numerous, stand in a gi'ove of lofty
champecyparis trees, close by the
upper torii at a height of 3,000 ft.
above the sea.
Tlie foundation of this temple ia refer-
red to the legendary epoch. Yajnato-take
(seep. 87, on his expedition to subdue
Eastern Japan, is said to have passed this
way, and to have caused a shriur to be
built here for the worship of the Shinto
gods Izanagi and Izanami. The name of
Mitsumineno-miya is alleged to have
been bestowed upon it by his father the
Emperor Keiko a year later, from the
three contiguous peaks, — Kuniotori, Shi-
roiwa, and Myoho, on the latter of which
the temple stands. It is a far cry down
to the ninth year of 'r<>mpei (A.D. 7.37),
when the reigning Empress placed an
image of the Buddhist soddess Kwannon
within the grounds. In IS;;:! Mitsumine
became the seat of tlie Seigo-iu branch of
the Tendai sect. Finally, the rehabilita-
tion of Shinto in our own day has again
brought it, after the lapse of many cen-
turies, within the fold of the native re-
ligion. Two festivals are held annually,
on the 8th April and 2nd December.
Some noble cryjitomerias guard
the approach to the main temple, in
front of which the huge wooden lan-
tern r. and the building over the
holy-water cistern 1. are a luass of
carvings of Chinese figures, and
bii'ds and beasts. No less meri-
torious, though more weather-
178
Route 12. — The Takasahi-Karuizan-a Kaihvay.
beaten, are the carvings on the ex-
terior of the temple itself. The in-
terior has been deprived of its ela-
borate Buddhist furniture, to make
way for the simple requirements of
Shinto, — di-un^s and mirrors. The
shrine on the r. is dedicated to
Yamato-take. that on the 1. to
Kunitoko-tachi, while there are
numerous subsidiary shrines to
lesser deities. The quadrangular
building further 1. serves for the
accommodation of pilgrims. The
foreign traveller who presents a
suitable gift of money [kifu-kin)
on arrival, will be made quite com-
fortable and fed on the best vege-
tarian food procurable in so remote
a six)t. Beyond this again stand
the temple-offices, the jiriests'
dwellings, etc. One of these latter
—the Daisho-in — deserves inspec-
tion for the sake of its brightly
painted fusuma of Chinese scenes
on a gold ground by Bokkei. The
temple treasiwes, presers'ed in a
godown, include the old Buddhist
turniture and images, lacquer and
other utensils, kakemonos, mostly
of Buddliist subjects, some of
which are of great age, and a few
screens by Matahei, Kan5 Sesshin,
and other artists. The Okusha lies
30 chn higher up the mountain, but
affords Uttle \iew.
On the return journey the Aisitor
should take the Ura-michi, or Back
Way, which is less steep and more
open than the front approach. It
leads j)ast the pumping station
which supphes the temjole with
water, and rejoins the main road to
Omiya at a point some distance
higher up the course of the Araka-
wa.
Enthusiastic walkers may, in-
stead of returning the way they
came, proceed over the Karizaka-
toge to Kofu. The distance is
estimated at 20 ri from Mitsumine.
The first day's walk should end at
Odaki j the next will include the
portion locally loiown as Hachi-ri
Hatcho, which is a distance of 8 ri
8 did without a sign of habitation
till Kumaqawa is reached, where the
second night is spent ; the third
day will take one easily into Kofti.
This trip is only feasible in summer.
Hikawa, sitiiated in the valley of
the Tamagawa (see Route 27), about
11 ri from Omiya, may be reached
from that town by a lonely moun-
tain path over the Sengen-tdge and
the Nipparn-toge.
ROUTE 12.
By R\iii FKOM Tokyo to Takasaki
AND KaRUIZAWA.
SHIMONITA. MAEBASHI. ISOBE.
MYOGI-SAN.
Names
■2 ga
of
Remarks
Stations
TOKYO (Ueno)
2 m.
Tabata Jet.
4
Oji
[Up trains
e,
Akabane Jet
change for
10
Warabi
Yokohama.
13
TJrawa
17
Omiya Jet
\ For Nikko and
) the North.
22
Ageo
24
Okegawa
29
Konosu
34
Fukiage
38
Kumagal
45
Fukaya
51
Honjo
53-J
Jimbohara
56
601
Shimmachi
Kuragano
/Change for
Karuizawa.
63
TAKASAKI Jet . .
Some trains
< change for
64i
69
lizuka
Annaka
Maebashi, 6
miles.
73J
Isobe
77i
Matsuida ,
rAlight for
i Myogi-san.
80i
Yokogawa
84
Kiima-no-taira
87S
KARDIZ.^WA.
Takasaki. Maebashi.
179
This line closely follows the first
stages of the old Nakasendo (see
Eoute 24), and is flat and unin-
teresting as far as Takasaki ; but in
clear weather fine distant views of
the moutains are obtained all
along the route. Fuji is visible 1.
until shut out by the Chicbibu
range ; to the near r. rises Tsukuba
with its twin summits, then Nan-
tai-zan and the other Nikk5 moun-
tains to the extreme r. behind a
lower range ; Akagi-san is distin-
guished by its wide grassy base,
crowned by numerous peaks. On
approaching Takasaki, the great
square mass of the Haruna group
comes in sight ahead to the r., while
on the 1., also ahead, the cliflis of
Myogi stand out Hke the walls of a
huge fortress. Smoking Asama is
a prominent object ahead to the r.
during the whole journey till the
very foot of the pass at Yokogawa,
which it overtops.
XJrawa is the seat of govern-
ment of the prefecture of Saitama,
which includes the greater part of
tlae_province of Musashi.
Omiya [Inn, Takashima-ya, in
the public garden, suppUes Europ.
food). An avenue of 1 m. in length
leads to Hikawa Jinja, the chief
Shintd temple of Musashi, situated
in gi'ounds that have been tui-ned
into a pubhc garden. The temple
is said to have been founded in
honour of Susano-o by Yamato-
take, on his return from subduing
the barbaroiis tribes of Eastern
Japan. After Omiya, the first
place of importance reached is
Kumagai (Inn, Shimizu-ya),
which cai-ries on a large trade in
sUk and cotton, and possesses his-
torical interest in connection with
the wanior Kumagai Naozane (see
p. 78). At
Honjo (Inn, Moroshichi), there
are some important cross-country
roads, one of which joins the Bei-
heishi Kaido, the route formerly
followed by the Mikado's annual
envoy to the shrine of leyasu at
Nikko. Another leading towards
the Chichibu mountains is described
in Koute 11.
Shimmachi (Inn, Mitsumata) is
a large silk-producing town.
Takasaki (Inn, TakasaM-kwan,
at station) was formerly the castle-
town of a Daimyo, and is still an
important industrial centre. A
tramicay leads to Shibukawa for
Ikao.
A miniature railway of 21 m. in
length runs hence to Tomioka (Inn,
Shinshu-ya), a thriving sUk mart,
and to Shimonita (Inn, Sugita), a
tidy httle town standing among
the lower spurs of the mountains
amidst dehghtful scenery. Iron
ore is worked here.
[The railway branches off here
to Maebashi, 6 m., where it
meets the Eyomo line from
Oyama (see Koute 16). Mae-
bashi (Inn, Abura-ya ; Europ.
restt., Akagi-tei), formerly the
seat of a great Daimyd named
Matsudaira Yamato-no-kami,
is now the capital of the pre-
fecture of Gumma, and a great
emporium of the silk trade,
one of the best quahties of raw
silk being named after this
town. The extensive silk-
reehng factories can be seen
on apphcation. To the N.
rises the extinct volcano of
Akagi-san, and W. is the
curious group of mountains
collectively called Haruna, on
the N. E. flank of which are
situated the favourite baths
of Ikao, described in Eoute 14.
The brick enclosm-e seen r. just
before entering Maebashi is
one of the largest convict
prisons in Japan, whose wall
20 ft. high encloses 11 acres of
land. The big river crossed is
the Tonegawa.]
lizuka is a station at the W. end
of Takasaki, some distance from
the business part of the town. The
tramway to Shibukawa (for Ikao)
here crosses the railway.
Annaka was formerly a castle-
town.
180
Route 12. — Tne Takasaki-Karuizawa Railway.
Isobe {Inns, Horai-kwan and
others) is a watering-place lying in
a wide yalley less than 1,000 ft.
above the level of the sea. Exposed
as it is on all sides, it is neither
mild in winter nor cool in summer.
The spring is brine.
Matsuida is the station to
alight at for a visit to the marvel-
lous rocky peaks that crown Myogi-
san. It hes about 1 ri by jinriMsha
from the small vill. of
Mydg-i {Inns, Shishi-ya, Kambe-
ya), the best place to stay at to
inspect the rocks.
The shrine at Myogi is dedicated to the
memory of the 13th abbot of Enryakuji,
a temple on Hiei-zan near Kyoto, who, in
the reign of the Emperor Daigo (A.D. 898-
930), retired here to mourn over the
sadden downfall and banishment of his
pupil, the famous Sugawara-no-Michizane.
After his death, he was deified under
the title of Myogi Dai Gongen. Over two
centuries ago, a fresh access of zeal on the
part of his devotees was the cause of the
shrine being rebuilt in the grand style of
which traces still remain. It is now in
charge of Shinto priests.
The temple stands a short
distance above the "tillage, in the
midst of a gi'ove of magnificent
cryptomerias. The Oku-no-in Hes
25 cho further up the mountain,
and above tins the chffs are nearly
perpendicular. A rocky cave, form-
ed by ;a huge block resting in a
fissure, contains an image of the
god. On the summit of one of
the jutting peaks near the Oku-no-
in, is the enormous Chinese cha-
racter ^ {dai), "gi-eat," whose
dimensions are stated at 30 ft. by
20 ft. It is constructed of thin
bamboos, tied together and cov-
ered with strips of paper, the
votive offerings of pilgrims, which
give it the appearance from below of
being painted white. The surround-
ing scenery is weird and romantic.
From the bosom of a gloomy
grove rise innumerable rocky pin-
nacles, which gradually increase
in height around a lofty central
peak, the whole vaguely recaUing
the front of some colossal Gothic
cathedral.
Dr. Naumann describes Myogi-san as a
system of grand, acute-edged, deeply ser-
rated dykes, apparently radiating from a
common centre, whose highest summit is
about 3,880 ft. in height. Probably it is
the skeleton of a very old volcano.
The highest peak of the jagged
ridge {Haku-un-zan) rising directly
above the 'sill, is called Myogi Jinja
Chojo ; the S. wing is Kinkei-san,
with Kinto-san lying between the
two. The Fude-iwa or "Pen Eock,"
is a consi^icuous projection belong-
ing to Kinkei-san and forming the
N.W. termination of this dyke. Its
ascent is diificult and dangerous.
Three ilays may i)rofitably be
devoted to the various expeditions
around Mj'ogi-san. First day : — to
Daikoku-san, the way there leading
over the pass between Kinkei-san
and Kinto-san, and taking 1^ hr.
from the ■village. (The leeches with
which the wood swarms are apt to
be troublesome). A natural curios-
ity passed on the way is Ichi no
Sekimon, Lit., the First Stone Gate,
which consists of a vertical slab
of rock some 180 ft. high, 2iO ft.
\\ide at the base, and 18 ft. thick,
with an arched hole 90 ft. high and
80 ft. wide. Ni no Sekimon, and so
on down to Eoku no Sekimon, mak-
ing six altogether, are similar
curiosities. Through the last named
it is necessary to crawl on hands
and knees. The Hige-suri-iica, or
" Beard-shaving Eock," is a slender
column of volcanic breccia, the last
10 ft. of the climb up which is
achieved Avith the assistance of a
chain and ladder. From this coign
of vantage, the lofty peak of JSv.ka
no take and many other ciuious
rocks are visible. The ascent of
Naka-no-take, which, though a
rough scramble, is well worth
making, takes about 1 hr. from the
Hige-suri-iwa. The modern-looking
edifice near the latter was built for
the priests, after the burning of the
two temples in 1872.
Second day : — to Kinkei-san.
The way hes along the plain for 1
hr. to the viU. of Sugawara, whence
Boute 13. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama.
181
the climb to the top — steep but not
dangerous — will take IJ hr. more.
Third day : — to Myogi Jinja
Chojo, the most difficult of the three
expeditions. The only practicable
path is that leading up to the Bai
{iz), and behind the Takezuru Chojo
7 cho below the Okii-no-in (the
route up the steep and dangerous
rock from the Oku-no-in should be
absolutely avoided), thence up over
the Haio-mune, or "Pidgeon's
Breast," a rock some 20 ft. in
height, to scale which it is neces-
sary to take a roj)e. After this
coroeo an arduous cHmb, which
must be achieved by hauling one-
self uj) from tree to tree, — 22^ hrs.
to the summit. Steep and narrow
cols and ridges connect the various
peaks. The return is made the
same way.
The precipitous sides of Myogi
are clothed in parts with rich vege-
tation, and towards the end of
October glow with the crimson
tints of the maple and other trees.
On leaving Myogi, the railway
may be rejoined at Matsuida ; or
else one may walk on for 2 ri to a
point a little further along the
Nakasendo highway, near
Yokogawa (Inn, Ogino-ya, at
station).
After this station the line begins
to chmb the Usui Pass.
The construction of the 7 miles of rail-
way leading to Karuizawa over the Usui
Pass presented greater difficulties than
any that had hitherto been contended
with by engineers in Japan, and for this
reason a hiatus remained in the middle of
the line to the West Coast until 1893,
when the Abt system, — cog-wheels work-
ing on rack-rails, — was successfully intro-
duced. The gradient is 1 in 15, and
almost the whole way a succession of
bridges and tunnels, the total tunnelling
aggregating 2^ miles. There are 26 tun-
nels altogether. No. C being the longest.
The viaduct over the Usui-gawa has four
arches, each of CO ft. opening ; and the
height of the rails from the valley is 110 ft.
There is a curious arrangement to pre-
vent inconvenience from heat and smoke
in the larger tunnels : — the engine is
placed behind, and as soon as the train
has entered, a curtain is drawn at the
lower end, wliich prevents the smoke
from being sucked up along the tunnel.
The tiresomeness of the tunnels
is relieved by momentary glimpses
of gloriously wooded ravines and of
the rugged peaks of Myogi-san.
Shin-Karuizawa, the station,
lies J hr. by jinriMsha from the
summer resort called
Kyu-Karuizawa (see next
Route).
ROUTE 13.
Kaetjizawa and Asama-tama.
1. eaetjizawa and neighbouehood.
2. ASCENT OF asama-tama. 3.
TEMPLE OP SHAKTJSONJT. 4. HOT
SPEINGS OF BESSHO. 5. TO SHIMO-
NITA BY THE WAMI-TOGE. 6. FEOM
KAEUIZAWA TO KXJSATSU.
(Conf. map facing p. 187.)
1.
-Kaeuizawa and Neigh-
bouehood.
Karuizawa (Mampei Hotel,
Karuizav\'a Hotel), easily accessible
from Tokyo in 5 J hrs. by the railway
described in the previous route, lies
in the corner of a grassy moor on
the W. side of the Usui-toge, 780 ft.
below the summit.
The village was in former times prin-
cipally dependent upon travellers over
the ancient highway, and appears to have
just escaped ruin, after the construction
of the railway, by a number of the
foreign residents of Tokyo making it a
retreat from the unhealthy heat of the
city during the summer months. Karui-
zawa's lofty situation (3,270 ft.) gives it a
temperature .seldom excessive during the
daytime, and invariably cool at night.
The rainfall bears favourable comparison
with Nikko and other mountain resorts,
and owing to the porous nature of the soil
in the vicinity, leaves fewer traces be-
hind. The i^lace is nevertheless not free
from mosquitoes, and the small sand-fly
called huyu abounds, — an insect which
182
Route 13. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama,
inflicts a bite, painless at first, but after-
wards extremely irritable and liable to
swell during several succeeding days.
Karuizawa is specially patronised by
missionary visitors from all parts of Japan
and even China. Tourists should under-
stand that in itself the place possesses no
attractions, no hot springs or historical
associations such as the Japanese care for.
It is but an ordinary village, and the cheap
wooden houses of the foreign summer
residents dot the neighbouring plain like
the beginnings of a new settlement in the
backwoods. But the country round about
affords good rides and walks both on the
grassy moor and among the hills. Besides
those mentioned below, numerous paths
have been recently cleared by the foreign-
ers in various directions, affording nice
walks.
The chief excursion from Karui-
zawa is the ascent of Asama-yama
(see next page), and the railway
affords opportunities for visiting
the romantically situated monastery
of Shakusonji near Komoro, the
famous Buddidst temple of Zenkoji
at Nagano, and the mountains be-
yond (see Koute 26). The shorter
walks include : —
1. To the top of the TJsui-toge,
1^ m. Asama, the Shirane-san and
Koma-ga-take of Koshii, Yatsu-ga-
take, and Tateshina-yama are seen
on the way wp. On the summit
stand a few houses and a small
temple, whose steps are the best
place to obtain the view.
In this spot is localised the follovring
legend, preserved in the Kqjiki : —
When Yamato-take (see p. 87) was cross-
ing from Sagami to Kazusa, while on his
expedition against the barbarous tribes
who then inhabited that region, he ridi-
culed the name of Hashiri-mUu ("Running
Water") given to the strait, and exclaimed
that it was no more than an easy jump
across. The Sea-God, offended at this
insult, so disturbed the waters that Ya-
mato-take's ship was unable to advance.
Upon this, his consort Oto-Tachibana-
Hime said to him, " I will drown myself in
thy stead," — and as she plunged into the
sea, the waves became still. Seven days
afterwards her comb floated ashore. The
prince built a tomb, and deposited the
comb therein. On returning to the capital
after subduing the tribes, he stopped to
rest at the top of the Usui Pass, and
gazing over the plain, said thrice in a
melancholy voice: "Azumawayd!" ("Alaa !
my wife "), whence the name of Azuma by
which Eastern Japan is still known.
2. Atago-yama. This isolated
hill, J hr. walk from the vill., is
ascended by two flights of stone
steps, and has some curious perpen-
dicular rocks half-way up.
3. Hanare-yama, about 1 m.
off. On its E. side, near the sum-
mit, is a large cave tenanted by
bats.
4. Iriyama-toge, 1 hr., by the
base of the hills skirting the moor,
and past the curious rock called
Kamado-iwa by the Japanese, and
Pulpit Rock by foreigners. The
peak to the 1. beyond this rock
commands a very extensive pros-
pect. The summit of the Iriyama-
toge affords probably the finest
view obtainable of the valley lead-
ing towards Myogi-san, and, look-
ing backwards, of the wide stretch
of moorland at the base of Asama-
yama.
5. Wami-toge and Sosoku-
iwa. From the foot of the
Iriyama-toge, the path keeps to
the r., and in f hr. more the
highway over the Wami-toge is
reached. The ascent is easy.
After a short but steep descent
on the opposite side, a path 1.
leads to the hamlet of Ongawa,
situated at the base of the Bd-
soku-iioa, aptly re-named by for-
eigners the Cathedral Eocks,
and remarkable for the petrified
wood found in the neighbourhood.
These rocks are most easily ap-
proached from Ongawa. Instead
of returning the way one came,
a pleasant round may be made
by taking a tortuous hill path lead-
ing down deep into the Iriyama
valley, from which Karuizawa may
be regained by the Iiiyama-toge,
Or else, by pursuing a downward
course from Ongawa, one may reach
the hamlet of Aral, at the lower end
of the Iriyama valley. From this
potut it is a little over 1 ri to
Yokogawa, whence train. In any
case, the excursion will occupy the
greater part of a day.
6. Kiritsumi {Inn, Chosei-kwan).
The thermal springs of this place
Kiritsumi. Asama-yama.
183
are reached after a 3 hrs. walk -via
the Usui Pass. Not far from the
summit a narrow path tui-ns 1.,
leading up and down a succession
of wooded mountain gorges, till the
final descent is made into the tiny
valley in which Kiritsumi nestles at
a height of 3,200 ft.— These baths
may be more conveniently reached
by a jinrikisha road from Yokogawa,
3 ri. The way is very pretty, but
the view shut out on all sides. The
water of Kiritsumi is shghtly saline,
with a temperature of 104° F.
Higher up, in a neighbouring
valley, is the old-fashioned water-
ing-place of Iri-no-iju, with accom-
modation only for peasant guests.
The baths are sulphurous and have
a high temperature.
7. Yunosawa, ^ hr. along the
Kusatsu road. A bath may be had
in the small house here, to which
mineral water is brought from
the hUl beyond. Continuing along
the same road, which soon leads
over more elevated ground and
passes through beautiful stretches
of forest, we reach the baths of
8. Kose in about 1 hr. This is
a tiny hamlet in a fold of the hiUs,
but possesses a commodious inn.
Just before reaching Kose there is
a narrow track, which, after travers-
ing the forest, emerges on grassy
mountain slopes, and ascends Hana-
magari-yama (5,500 ft.), command-
ing fine views. It then descends
steeply into Kiritsumi, to which
village this is a longer but more
picturesque route than the one
given above.
2. — AsAMA-YAMA.
Asama-yama (8,280 ft.) is not
only the largest active volcano in
Japan, but also the most accessible.
The excursion to the top and back
may be made from Karuizawa in
one day.
The last great eruption occurred in the
summer of 1783, when a vast stream of
lava destroyed a primeval forest of con-
siderable extent, together with several
villages on the N. side. Most eruptionB
have produced mere showers of ashes,
but stones also were ejected in 1894 and
in 1900. At the foot of the steep cone the
subterranean disturbance can be distinct-
ly heard, and the sulphurous exhalations
near the summit often make this part of
the ascent rather oppressive.
The ascent by the WaJcasare iw
chaya — a rest-house on the old road
to Kusatsu — is the one usually
prefeiTed, and is certainly the
least fatiguing. The best plan is
to hire horses at Karuizawa, where
foreign saddles may be procured,
ride via the vUl. of Kuisukake to
Ko-Asama, — the excrescence on
the mountain side, — 2.^ hrs., and
walk up by the path which diverges
1. some 20 cho before reaching
Wakasare-no-chaya. The climb is
steep, but the path a fairly solid
one of cinders. The time taken to
the lip of the crater is about 2^ hrs.
from the place where one dis-
mounts.
The crater is circular, some f
m. in cu-cumference, with sides
perpendicular, honeycombed, and
burnt to a red hue, while sulphur-
ous steam wells up from the bottom
and from numerous cre-vices in the
walls. On the S. side of the moun-
tain rise two precipitous rocky ram-
parts, separated by a considerable
interval, the outer one being lower
and nearly covered with vegeta-
tion. They seem to be the remains
of two successive concentric cra-
ters, the existing cone being the
third and most recent. The nearer
is quite bare, and columnar in
structure at the centre. The side
of the cone is strewn with large
rough fragments of loose lava, and
unfathomable rifts extend for the
greater part of the way down to
its base. The \iew from the
summit embraces a large tract of
country : — to the N., the whole of
the Kotsuke mountains, x\ith the
Hamna group and Akagi-san ; the
Nikko range and the E. range divid-
ing Shinshu from Kotsuke ; the sea
far away in the distance ; next the
Koshu mountains on the S., with
184
Route 13. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama.
Fuji peering over them ; the conical
Yatsu-ga-take and the adjacent
summits of Koshu ; and then on
the W., the huge range that forms
the boundary between Shinshu and
Hida. The descent to the Waka-
sare-no-chaya takes \\ hr.
Another way up, also occupying
about 5^ hrs., is from Oiwake (Inn,
Nakamura-ya), a yLU. on the Naka-
sendo, 2 ri 14 cho from Karuizawa.
On leaving Oiwake, the path as-
cends gently through sloping moor-
land covered with wild-flowers ;
then the acclivity becomes greater,
and gritty ash is reached. At an
elevation of 1,145 ft. above Oiwake,
is a cascade hidden among the
trees that border a deep gorge. Its
height is about 18 ft. ; the red
colour of the water and of the
underlying rock — volcanic brec-
cia covered with a red crust — gives
it a strange apjiearance. At a
height of 3,225 ft. above Oiwake, all
vegetation ceases. For 1,600 ft.
more, the path proceeds up a steep
ascent of loose ash to the edge of
the outer ridge, which from the vill.
below appears to be the summit,
thoTigh not really so. The path
then descends, and crosses over
to the base of the present cone,
which is more easily climbed. —
The ascent can also be made from
Komoro, a railway station ISJ ni.
from Karuizawa. The path leads
straight across the fields towards
the highest visible point of Asama,
and in IJ hr. fair walking brings
one to the crest of a ridge, beyond
which is a deep ravine with a
yellow brook at the bottom, while
the path from Oiwake is at
the same level on the other side.
The brook is crossed after 35 min.
walking, when the path joins that
from Oiwake, described above.
The actual time taken by a good
walker to make the ascent from
Komoro was 5f hrs., exclusive of
stoppages, the last ij hr. being an
extremely rough and steep chmb.
One of the most interesting ex-
ciirsions from Karuizawa is to the
liava Stream of 1783, refened to
in the small type on p. 183. Some
travellers pressed for time combine
this with the ascent of the moun-
tain, doing both in one day ; but
this is too fatiguing. The way
to the lava stream (Oshi-dashi-
gawara) goes off immediately behind
the Wakasare-no-chaya rest-house
(where a guide can generally be
engaged), thence 1. throiigh the
pine-wood which borders the lava
stream ; time 50 min. The huge
blackish grey blocks rise abruptly
to a height of from 20 to 25 ft.
from the edge of the wood, in
extraordinary confusion. Time has
covered them with a coating of
moss, and owing to surface dis-
integration, they break away easUy
in parts, so as to make scrambling
over them difficult. Emerging, as
one does suddenly, from the peace-
ful shade of the forest, with its
carpet of delightfully soft moss, on
to this terrible evidence of sub-
terranean force, the spectacle is
strangely impressive. The view,
too, from the top of the boulders,
especially of Shiran e-san and of the
range dividing the provinces of
Shinshu and Kotsuke is very fine.
On the way back, the gviide will
point out a curious fissure in the
ground extending for a long dis-
tance, dotibtless due to some later
eruption.
3. — Shakusonji.
The train takes f hr. from Karui-
zawa to Komoro, whence it is about
1 hr. walk to the monastery of
Shakusonji, commonly known as
Nxmobiki no Kioannon, which lies
perched on the side of one of the
high bluffs that overlook the Chiku-
ma-gawa. It is a romantic spot,
approached by a narrow gorge lead-
ing from the liver bank. The
priests have tunnelled through the
rocks in several places, making
passages which lead to the various
shrines and form a continuous
Bessho. From Karuizawa to Kusatsu.
185
corkscrew path round the perpen-
dicular cliff. The white-painted hut
close by the bell-tower on the sum-
mit commands a superb view of
the Asama range and the valley of
the Chikuma-gawa. The monastery
belongs to the Tendai sect of
Buddhists.
4. — Bessho.
Summer residents at Karuizawa,
desirous of getting a peep of life
at a typical bathing resort of the
good old kind, might visit Bessho,
a little vill. lying in a fold of the
pine-clad hills, at the foot of
Ogami-dake, 3 ri by jinrikisha to
the W. of Ueda station (1^ hr. by
train). The best inn, Kashiwa-ya,
a three-storied building which ad-
joins a small but x^^etty temple
sacred to Kwannon, sprawls w^ and
down the hillside, commanding a
lovely view. Another temple, -n-ith
a massive thatched roof, called An-
raJcuji, boasts a pagoda of the un-
usTial number of four storeys,
which is 700 years old. A festival
takes place at the summit of Ogami-
dake every 15th July, when each
house in the vill. has to send a
representative bearing some gar-
ment as an offering to the god.
The neighbourhood of Bessho af-
fords many pretty walks, among
others one to the well-known Hd-
fukuji-toge, 2^ hrs., on the highway
between Ueda and Matsumoto.
5. — Over the Wami-toge to
Shimonita.
This expedition can be made
either on horseback or on foot as
far as Shimonita, and the return
by train via Takasaki ; 7^ hours
will be a good allowance to make
for catching the last train. The
way leads over the Wami-toge (see
p. 182), and down a narrow, pictur-
esqi;e valley between lofty, precipi-
tous crags to the vill. of Ilatsudoya.
Jinrikishas with 2 men might be
availed of from this place by order-
ing them beforehand from Shimo-
nita, or else from the next vill.
of Motojuku, the first one which
affords accommodation. The whole
walk is lovely, the valley only
beginning to open out a little about
Motojuku, while Shimonita stands,
so to say, at its moiith. For fur-
ther notice of Shimonita, see p. 179.
The distances are approximately
as follows : —
KAEUIZAWA to Bi Cho 31.
Top of Wami-toge. 2 18 6
Hatsudoya 28 2
Motojuku 1 26 4J
SHIMONITA 2 27 6|
Total 7 27 19
6. — FeOM KAKtIlZAWA TO
KUSATSTJ.
This is a day's joiirney of 10 ri
approximately, barely practicable
for jinrikishas ; three men may be
necessary. Horses with foreign
saddles are also obtainable at Karui-
zawa. The path to Kusatsu di-
verges to the r. before descending
to Kose (see p. 183), and emerging
from the forest, i^asses over the
grassy slojaes of Hanamagari and
the other mountains to the N. of
the Usui-toge. Asama looms up
majestically over the wide moor-
land to the 1. At about 4} ri from
Karuizawa, the old road to" Kusatsu
(12 ri) ■via the Wakasare-no-chaya
joins in, whence on to the poor vill.
of Okuwa, 1 J ri, the way Ues through
dehghtful park-like country, part
of which is utihsed for a horse-
breeding farm owned by the Im-
perial Household. The next stage
takes one in about 1 hr. down to
the bed of the Agatsuma-gawa,
which is crossed on a curious
suspension bridge of about 180 ft.
span made of telegraph wire. On
the far side stands the viU. of
Haneo. The remainder of the way
is mostly a gi-adual ascent through
woods and fields, commanding at
intervals splendid \iews of the sur-
rounding mountains. For Kusa-
tsu, see next Route.
186
Route 14. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.
ROUTE 14.
Ikao, KtrsATSU, and
Neighjbotjehood.
1. ikao. 2. walks and excuesions
feom rkao : haktjna, etc. 3. ku-
satsu. 4. "walks in the neigh-
bourhood of kusatsu. 5. feom
kusatsu to nagano 0\'ee the
shibu-toge, ascent of shieane-
SAN, THE TOEn-TOGE.
1. — Ikao.
Ikao is a short day's jotimey
from Tokyo (Ueno station).
The first stage is by rail to Mae-
bashi in 3f hrs., whence tram to
Shibukawa, about IJ hr. The tram-
cars usually start from the far end
of Maebashi, 1 J m. from the sta-
tion, but jinrikishas (15 min. to
tram) can be availed of ; or if ordered
beforehand from the Basha Tetsudd
Kwaisha, tramcars will meet travel-
lers at the railway station. The last
stage from Shibukawa up to Ikao
{2 ri 15 cho, or 6 m.) is done by
jiniikisha with two men in 2 hrs.;
return in 1 hr. — Shibukawa can also
be reached from Takasaki station
by tram direct ; but the cars are
smaller and the distance is longer.
In summer time a private car is
almost a necessity.
Hotel. — Kindayu, European style.
There are also the Budayu, Chigira,
and other good inns in Japanese
style.
Ikao, one of the best summer
resorts in Japan, is built on ter-
races along the N. E. slope of
Haruna-san, at an elevation varying
from 2,500 to 2,700 ft. The pictur-
esque main street, which divides the
viU. into an eastern and a western
part, consists of one nearly con-
tinuous steep fUght of steps. The
houses W. of the steps border on a
deep ravine called the Yusawa,
through which rushes a foaming
torrent. Ikao enjoys the advantage
■of cool nights, few mosquitoes,
and an unusually beautiful situa-
tion, which ofEers from nearly every
house a grand view of the valleys
of the Agatsuma-gawa and Tone-
gawa, and of the high mountain-
ranges on the border of the gi'eat
plain in which T6ky5 is situated.
From few places can the Nikko
mountains be seen to such advan-
tage, while conspicuous in the
foregi'ound lise the three peaks of
Onoko-yama.
No summer resort in Japan can
show such a wealth of wild-flowers.
During July and August, the hhum
auratum, the tiger-lily and several
other lilies, the iris in many col-
ours, three species of clematis,
three species of spirea, the hy-
drangea, the funkia, asters, cam-
panulas, and numerous others car-
pet the ground. EarUer, especially
in May, this whole country-side
resounds with the song of birds, —
nightingales and cuckoos in the
woods, larks on the open moorland.
Ikao is famous for its mineral
springs, which have a temperature
of 45° C. (113° r.), and which
contain a small amount of iron
and sulphate of soda. They have
been known since prehistoric times,
and the bath-houses pouring out
clouds of steam form a striking
feature of the precipitous village
street. According to the Japanese
style of bathing, the hot baths are
made use of several times a day,
and indiscriminately by visitors of
every description. Lately the water
has been used for diinking purposes,
but it has little more effect than
pure hot water.
2. — Walks and Excuesions
FEOM Ikao.
1. Along the Yusawa ravine to
Yumoto, about J m., nearly level.
Yu-moto means ht., " the Source of
the Hot Water." Seats are erected
for the accommodation of visitors,
who resort there to drink of the
mineral spring (Nomi-yu). The
water, which at its source is quite
clear, has a sUghtly inky taste. On
Scale 1*00000
_? ) 1 S 1_
1
J.I j^tvr^u
"''^"."^.^^\^f.y
:!^'I;_-^'5i«i-^''
■'^x
•
WaUcs and Excursion.^ from Jkao.
187
being exposed to the air the carbon-
ic acid evaporates, and part of the
iron which the water contains is
precipitated as a yellowish mass.
This covers the bed of the river
and the bottom of the aqueduct,
and gives to the water in the baths
a thick, discoloured appearance.
The people, who have great faith in
the strengthening efEects of this
precipitated iron salt, place large
strips of cotton cloth in the stream.
When the cloth has assumed a deep
yellow colour, it is taken out, dried,
and used as a belt for the body.
Gowns thus dyed (yu-aka-zome)
are offered for sale in the village,
and to wear one of these for twelve
hours is declared to be equal to a
whole course of baths. The mineral
water is led down to the inns in
bamboo pipes.
2. Up Kompira-san, I hr. climb
under shade. Though of no great
height, the top commands an ex-
tensive view, stretching from
Shirane-san near Kusatsu to
Tsukuba-san in Hitachi, and
including the Milcuni and Nikko
ranges, Akagi-san, and the valley of
the Tonegawa.
3. Up to Mushi-yu, (Ht. "Va-
pour Bath"), so called from the
sulphurous gases which here ema-
nate from holes in the ground, over
which huts have been erected for
the treatment of rheumatic pa-
tients. The naked people some-
times standing about at Mushi-yu
make this place unsightly. Time f
hr. Among the rocks by the side of
the path just below Mushi-yu are a
number of holes from which cold
air issues, seeming to testify to the
presence of ice within.
4. To Nanne-no-taki {" the Seven-
fold Cascade"), \ hr. down through
a wood ; thence for | hr., also
mostly up and down through the
wood, to Benten-daki, a very
pretty fall of the stream that flows
from Lake Hanina. About half-way
one passes a picturesque aA'enue
of cryptomerias leading to a small
deserted shrine. This walk mav be
varied by returning via the hamlet
of Inak'igo close to the avenue, but
there is then less shade. — Those who
do not mind scrambhng and wet-
ting their feet a Uttle, may climb to
a point a short way above the upper
of the two falls, where the stream
can easily be crossed, and make
their way through long grass to a
path, whence, turning 1. and down
the valley, Ikao can be reached by
way of the Yoromya-hashi, a bridge
spanning a deep and picturesque
ravine at Aznma-mura.
5. A long but delightful walk
may be taken via the N. end of
Lake Haruna to Benten-daki, by
following the stream which forms
the fall (about IJ hr. from the Lake
to the fall). In spring there is a
wealth of flowering trees, ground
orchids, and wild wistaria ; in
summer the excessive height of the
grass renders this walk impracti-
cable.
6. Mizusawa no Kwannon,
a Buddhist temple in which, though
dedicated to Kwannon, the chief
object of interest is offered by
six bronze images of Jizo, life-size,
on a revolving case. The way
there leads for a few cho down the
Shibukawa road, then diverging r.
over the breezy moor at the foot of
Sengen-yama ; time to the temple,
50 min. One can proceed on from
Mizusawa, a further distance of 50
min. to the high Waterfall of Funao
(or Funyu), in a qiaaintly pictur-
esque rocky fold of a mountain of
the same name. The final scramble
up to the actual foot of the fall is
hardly worth making. One may
return another way, taking a path
over the hills that leads between
Sengen-yama r. and Futatsu-dake
1., — li hr. This wovdd be a good
occasion for ascending Sengen-yama,
the steep path up which is well-
defined.
7. Haruna, — 5i m., of which
4^ m. to the lake. Though the first
part of it is rough, this is by far
the prettiest walldng expedition
188
Route 14. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.
at Ikao. " Chairs " may, however,
be taken.
Lake Haruna, which ai^parently
occupies the site of an extinct
crater, has been stocked vdth sal-
mon and other lish. On its border
is a tea-house where one may lunch
or spend the night. The mass of
rocks resembhng a tower at the
N. E. end is called Suztiri-iwa, and
can be easily chmbed from the
back. From the lake it is a short
and easy ascent to the top of a pass
called Tenjin-toge, 1,000 ft. above
Ikao, commanding a fine view.
Prom the Tenjin-t5ge the path
descends a luxuriantly wooded glen
to the ancient Temple of Haruna,
situated amongst precipitous and
overhanging volcanic rocks, in a
gi-ove of lofty cryptomerias. Over
the principal building, which is
decorated -wdth excellent wood-
carvings (especially two dragons
t'U'ined roimd the side beams of the
porch), hangs a huge rock sux^ported
on a slender base, which seems
every moment to threaten the
temple with destruction. The
whole site is one of the most
fantastically beautiful that can be
imagined.
The date of the original fouadation o£
the temple of Harana isunlinown. The
earliest records date back only five cen-
turies, when the Yamabushi (a sect of
Buddhist exorcisers and fortune-tellers),
who then had ijossession of the place,
were involved in the ruin of Nitta Yoshi-
sada (see p. 81), with whom they had sided
in the civil wars of the time. More
latterly it came under the jurisdiction of
the Imperial Prince-abbot of Ueuo. The
present main shrine was erected about
A.D. 1725, and since the revolution of
1868, it has been re-dedicated to the
Shinto deities Ho-musubi the God of Fire,
and Haniyasu-Hime the Goddess of Earth.
A short way below the temple
is a remarkable formation of rock
like a iiying buttress, called Kura-
kake-iwa. A few minutes further
on stands the village where reside
the wives and children of the
priests ; for even in old times, a
local exemption existed from the
Buddliist rale of ceUbacy.
8. Fu t at su-d ak e, Soma-
yama, and Haruna Fuji. These
three hills all he on the way to
Lake Haruna. The way up Fidatsu^
dake diverges 1. J hr. out of Ikao,
where a post marks 5J cho to the
summit. From this post, 25 min.
more take one to the spot where
the way to Soma-yama branches off
1. from the Haruna road, close to the
second tea-house. From here it is
20 min. along the base, and 25
min. more uj) an arete to the top,
chains being fixed in the rock at
the two steeliest places to assist
climbers, though there is no real
danger. The Haruna Fuji hes to
the r. of the road, close to the lake,
where there is a grazing-ground for
cattle (Bokujo) ; its steej) and stony
ascent occupies f hr. from the place
where the path diverges. The view
from these various heights is very
beautiful and extensive, particularly
that from the shrine on the summit
of Soma, 4,850 ft. above sea-level,
and 2,150 ft. above Ikao. The
summit of Fuji appears over the
Chichibu mountains nearly due S.
To the W. of it are seen the Koshu
Shirane, the Koma-ga-take's of
Koshu and Shinshii seemingly in
close jjroximity, then Yatsu-ga-take,
Ontake about W. S. W., Asama-
yama a httle to the S. of W.,
Yahazu-yama W. N. W., then the
Shirane of Kusatsu, and a part of
the Hida-Shinshu range. Eastwards
rise Tsulaiba-san and the Shirane
of Nikkd, ^\ith Kurobi-yama — the
highest peak of Aliagi-san — half-way.
between them. The town of Mae-
bashi is visible to the E. S. E., vrith.
the Tonegawa half encirchng it
before pursuing its course through
the plain.
S5ma may also be ascended from
Mushi-yu ; but on that side the
cUmb is more precipitous, nine
chains in rapid succession helping
the cHmber on the steep portion
just below the summit. Pilgiims
often prefer it for that very reason,
as gaining for them greater reU-
gioiis merit. — Another way up from
Akagi'San. Shima.
189
the direction ot Takasaki joins the
Miishi-yu ascent shortly before the
final climb. It has seven chains
and an iron ladder about 30 ft.
long. The ascent of S5ma from
the Haruna side, with descent on
the Mnshi-yu side, occupies altoge-
ther 4 hrs. from Ikao.
As a variety in the day's work,
good walkers might advantageously
combine one of these hills with
Excursion No. 7 (Haruna).
9. Sengen-yama. This moun-
tain, which assumes so many forms
when seen fi-om different parts of
the plain, can be ascended from
Ikao via Mushi-yu in 1^ hr. The
path is steep, and the sides slope
away precipitously from the top,
which is a long knife-hke ridge.
10. Akagi-san is the collective
name of a circular range of peaks,
surrounding the basin of an old
crater, now a lake, about 2f m. in
circiimference. The mountain may
be ascended from various jpoints,
but is recommended as a 2 days'
expetlition for those spending the
summer at Ikao. The first stage
takes one by jinrikisha to Shibu-
kawa, where the Tonegawa is cross-
ed by ferry to Hassaki. Horses,
ordered beforehand, should here be
in waiting for the next stage of 3
hrs., chieiiy over monotonous and
shadeless moorland, which leads,
however, to a picturesque ridge
surrounded by pretty peaks. A
short distance further, at a cairn
marking the junction of several
paths, begins the only stiff portion
of the ascent, the Ubago-ioge, fi-om
the top of which, in about 1 hr.,
the path descends into the sylvan,
park-like _country on the S. side of
the lake ( Onuma), ^ hr. more. The
lake is enclosed by small hiUs,
v/hose lower slopes are covered with
woods consisting principally of
birch, oak, and alder. From its E.
end rise the highest of the peaks, —
Kurohi-san 6,300 ft., and Jizo-san,
5,600 ft., easy climbs of 30 cho and
12 cho respectively, offering magni-
ficent panoramic views : — Fuji
S.S.W., Kaigane-san (part of the
Koshii Shirane) S.W., the numerous
peaks of Yatsu-ga-take -with Tate-
shina nearly W. S. W., Asama-yama
due W., and the Kusatsu Shirane
about W. N. W. Nearly due N.
rises Hodaka-san, one of the loftiest
peaks in Kotsuke, easily recognised
by its double to^x A large hut close
by the temple (Daido), on the
margin of the lake, affords rough
shelter for the night for man and
beast. The god of Akagi is wor-
shipped under the form of a two-
edged sword. Twenty min. walk
beyond the temple lies a tarn (Ko-
numa), insignificant compared with
the larger sheet of water below.
For those wishing to take
Akagi-san on the way from Nikko to
Ikao or Maebashi, the path leading
up the Torii-toge from Mizunuma
on the Watarase-gawa (see Rte.
19), and the descent by the path
described above, is recommended.
11. The hot-springs of Shima lie
nearly 8 ri from Ikao, so that a trip
there involves staying the night.
Shima may most conveniently be
taken on the way to Kusatsu, the
road being the same as far as 20
cho past Nalcanojo. Jinrikishas
can be availed of. but must occa-
sionally be ahghted from. Shima
includes two hamlets, called respec-
tively Yamaguchl Onsen and Arai-
yu, 8 cho distant fiom each other ;
the latter {Inns, Sekizen, and Ta-
mm-a Mosaljuro) is the better. The
hamlet is pictiiresquely situated
close to the river, on whose bank
the springs which siipply the baths
gush forth. Travellers not return-
ing to Ikao, but going on to Kusa-
tsu, need not pass again through
Nakanojo, as there is a short cut
from a place called Eimino. It is,
however, scarcely passable for jin-
rikishas.
12. To Myogi-san. It is a
splendid day's walk \m Haruna-
san to Matsuida on the Takasaki-
Karuizawa Kailway, about 9 ri,
whence 1 ri more to the vill. of
Myogi (see p. 180).
190
Boufe 14. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.
3. KUSATSTJ.
The faYOurite way from Ikao to
this place leads clown oyer open
coTintry to the Hakojima ferry,
where it crosses to Murakami, and
thence along the main road through
Nakanojd, Sawatari, and Namasu,
after which it climbs the Kuresaka-
toge to the uplands of Kusatsu.
Itinerary.
IKAO to :— Ri Chd M.
Murakami 2 31 7
Sawatari 4 26 llj
KUSATSU 5 9 12|
Total 12 30 31i
JinriMshas with two or three men
are now practicable the whole way.
Most persons will prefer to walk the
steeper and more pictitresque
stages at either end, but may
advantageously take basha along
the flat from Murakami to Naka-
nojo. The whole trip makes an
extremely long day. Should a
break be found necessary, good
accommodation may be had at
Nakanojd (Inn, Nabe-ya), or else at
the small bathing vill. of Sawatari
(Inns, Shin-Kan5-ya, Fukuda).
An alternative way from Ikao to
Kusatsu branches off at Nakanojo,
and follows up the Agatsuma-gawa
through Haramachi and Nagano-
hara. Total distance nearly 14 ri,
much of it through beautiful
scenery. Instead of going ^ia Mura-
kami and Nakanojo, one may take
the Haruna Lake route, andby
turning to the 1. at the vill. of Odo,
join the Haramachi route a little
beyond Kawara-yu (Inn, by Hagi-
wara), where there are hot springs
high up on the river bank.
Kusatsu can also easUy be reach-
ed from Tokyo by taking rail to
Karuizawa (see p. 185).
Kusatsu (Inns, Yamamoto-
Irwan, Ichii, each with a besso, or
" separat-e house," and private
baths for foreigners, outside the
vill., open only during the summer
season), 3,800 ft. above sea-level,
whose trim, cleanly appearance
strongly recalls that of a village in
the Tyrol, is the coolest of Japan's
summer resorts. The fine three-
storied and gabled inns forming
the village square give an unusual
aspect to the place. The carving
of the brackets which support the
overhanging galleries combines
similarity of outline with clever
diversity of pattern, — fans with
various crests, birds, fishes, rats,
gourds, etc., being introduced. The
centre of the square is occupied by
springs of boiling sulphur water,
led in troughs to collect the sulphur.
Baths, public and private, are very
numerous. Visitors who, attracted
by these considerations, may think
of spending any time here, should
however bear in mind that the
mineral waters are specially effi-
cacious — not only in rheumatism,
and, as discovered by Dr. E. Baelz,
in gout^ — but in syphilis, leprosy,
and other loathsome diseases, and
that the first effect of the free
sulphuric acid in the water is to
bring out sores on the tender parts
of the body. The chief constitu-
ents of the Kusatsu springs are
mineral acids, sulphur, iron, alum,
and arsenic. The temperature of
the springs is extremely high, rang-
ing from 100° to 160° Fahrenheit,
while the baths are generally 113°
to 128°. The chief public bath,
called Netsu-no-yu, has three divi-
sions of increasing degrees of tem-
perature. Even the Japanese, in-
ured as they are to scalding water,
find their courage fail them ; and
the native invalids are therefore
taken to bathe in squads under a
semi-military discipline, to which
they voluntarily submit. This
system is known as Jikan-yu, or
" time bath," because the hours
are fixed. Soon after daylight a
horn is blown and the bathers as-
semble, dressed in white cotton
tunics and drawers, as many as can
find room taking their first daily
bath. After stripping, they begin
Kusatsu. Ascent of Shirane-san.
191
by beating the water with boards
in order to cool it, — a curious
scene ; and then most disrobe,
while the greatest sufEerers swathe
themselves in white cotton.
Each bather is provided with a
wooden dipper, and the "bath-
master" directs the patients to
poiir 250 dippers of water over
their heads to prevent congestion.
Attendants are on the watch, as
fainting fits sometimes occur. To
keep lip their coiu-age, a kind of
chant takes place between the
bathers and their leader on entering
and while sitting in the bath, — a
trial which, though lasting only
from 35 to 4 minutes, seems an
eternity to their festering bodies.
After the lapse of about one
minute, the bath-master cries out,
and the others all answer with a
hoarse shout. After a little he cries
out, " Three minutes more ! " After
another half-minute or so, " Two
minutes more ! " then " One minute
more ! " the chorus answering each
time. At last the leader cries
" Finished ! " whereupon the whole
mass of bodies rise from the water
with an alacrity which he who
has witnessed their slow, painful
entry into the place of tortm-e
would scarcely credit. Two more
baths are taken during the fore-
noon and two in the afternoon,
making five altogether, at each of
which the same routine is observed.
The usual Kusatsu course includes
120 baths, spread over four or five
weeks. Most patients then proceed
for the " after-cure " to Sawatari,
5 7-i 9 cho (12f m.) distant, where
the waters have a softening effect
on the sMn, and quickly alleviate
the terrible irritation. Some go to
Shibu (see next page) instead. The
lepers' bath {Ooza-no-yu) has no
fixed hours. Fearful sights may be
seen there at all hours. It stands
in the lower part of the village,
which forms a separate leper
quarter.
Kusatsu seems to have been first heard
of as one of the villages belonging to the
great chieftain, Takeda Shingen, in the
16th century ; but its importance dates
only from the Genroku period (1688-1704),
when the springs were enclosed under
straw huts. The inhabitants mostly bathe
twice a day, in a temperature of 110°, but
in winter three or foiir times to keep
warm, and experience no bad effects.
Skin diseases are said to be unknown
among them.
4.— Walks in the Neighboue-
HOOD OF Kusatsu.
1. To Sai-no-Kawara, 8 cho.
The meaning of the name Sai-no-
Kawara is " the Eiver-bed of SouLs."
On its numerous rocks and
boulders, small stones have been
piled up by visitors as offerings to
dead children (see p. 49). Among
these rocks are some called yurugi-
ishi, which, notwithstanding their
being huge boulders, are so nicely
balanced that they can be moved
by the hand. Hot yellow streams
of sulphur, and green streams of
copper flow into the river bed. 12
cho further on over the moor is
Kori-dani, so called from the
frozen snow to be found there even
in the dog-days.
2. To the solfatara of Sessh.0-
gawara, on the slope of Moto-
Shirane, about 1 ri.
3. Via Suwa-no-jinja, Higane,
Kiyozuka, and HiMnuma, to
Hanashiki near Iriyama, with
hot springs spurting up near a
cold stream. x\bout 2 J ri.
4. Shirane-san,
Shira-nr signifies " White Peak," which
accounts for there being several moun-
tains of this name in Japan.
a frequently active volcano, 7,500
ft. high, forms a short day's ex-
pedition via Sessho-gawara, the
path leading through a remarkable
skeleton forest, blasted by the
fumes exhaled during the eruption
of 1882. The crater is oval in
shape, its longer diameter being
about 500 yds., and its breadth 150
to 200 yds. The wall can be climb-
ed in a few min. on the N. side,
from the ruins of some sulphur
works destroyed in the eruption of
192
Route 14. — Jkao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.
1897. A boiling lake, which was
destroyed at the same time, has
begun to re-form since the eruption
of January, 1900 ; but the liquid
mud ejected on that occasion ren-
dered approach impossible when
the mountain was last visited. Pro-
bably, when all settles down again,
this lake vnB. be found to consist,
as formerly, of hydrochloric acid,
with iron and alum, only needing
to be diluted and sweetened in
order to constitute an excellent
lemonade.
Shirane-san may be conveniently
taken on the way to Shibu ; but 2^
hrs. extra should be allowed for
that object, as it lies ofE the main
road. Horses go to the foot of the
crater wall above-mentioned. Be-
ware of the water of the stream
crossed on the way up, which is
poisonous.
5. — Kusatsu to Nagano ovek the
Shibu-toge. The Tokh-Toge.
Itinerary.
KUSATSU to :— Ri Cho M.
Top of Shibu-toge. 2 32 7
SHIBU 4 — 9|
Toyono (Station) ..5 — 12^
Total
.11 32 29
On foot or on saddle-horse as far
as Shibu (2,250 ft. above the sea) ;
thence basha or jinrildsha to Toyo-
no ; thence train to Nagano in J hr.
This route affords splendid
scenery. The best plan is to sleep
at Shibu {Inns, Tsubata-ya and
others), catching the train at
Toyono next day, the good road in
from Shibu being traversed by basha
in 2J hrs. Travellers who have
not time to visit the temple of Zen-
koji at Nagano, can continue on by
rail to Karuizawa and Tokyo. The
route is one specially recommended
to those who have been taking the
sulphur baths at Kusatsu. Instead
of going for the " after-cure " to
Sawatari, — the usual Japanese plan,
— they can stay at Shibu, where
there are thermal springs suitable
to their needs, and be far more
comfortable. Quince jelly is a
specialty of the place.
The picturesqueness of the road
from Kusatsu to Shibu is purchas-
ed at the expense of a long and
steep climb. The descent from
the top of the pass (7,150 ft.) to
the vill. of Shibu is also very long.
The roclcy gorge (Tsubame-iwa, or
the " Swallow's Rock ")1^ ri before
Shibu is very impressive. Half a
ri further, where a placard points
out the trail 1., it is worth descend-
ing for a few min. to view the fine
Kamman waterfall. The road can
be rejoined below. The panorama
before entering Shibu is most ex-
tensive, including the mountains
known by the names of Myok5-
zan, Togakushi, and Izuna, and
towering behind them again the
northern part of the great
gi'anite range on the borders of
Etchu, described in Eoute 31. The
river twisting through the plain is
the Chikuma-gawa, of which the
Hoshi-kawa flowing through Shibu
is an affluent. A little over i ri
from Shibu is a small but con-
stantly active geyser (Ojigoku) in
the river-bed.
An alternative way to Nagano
from Kusatsu is over the Yamada-
toge, which is comparatively short,
and where the baths of Yamada
may be visited. Another is over
the Torii-toge, 6,520 ft. above the
sea. Both of these descend to the
vill. of Suzaka. The itinerary of
the Torii-toge route is as foUows : —
KUSATSU to :— Ri Cho M.
Mihara 2 6 5^
Ozawa 2 30 7
Tashiro 1 18 3g
Torii-toge 30 2
Nire 4 24 llj
Suzaka 1 29 4^
NAGANO 3 11 8
Total 17 4 41*
Route 15. — TJie Shimizu-goe and Mikuni-toge. 193
This so-called pass is but a gentle
ascent of 50 cho. The prettiest
part of the route is on the far side
of it, where, after leaving the \'il].
of Nire, the monotony of gi-assy
hills shutting out all distant pros-
pect is exchanged for charming
views of the mountains on the
borders of Echigo. JinriMshas can
be obtained at Suzaka for the re-
mainder of the journey, during
which the volcanic cone of Madarao
is visible, besides other mountains
mentioned above.
EOUTE 15.
The Shimizu-goe and
MlKUNI-TdGE.
Acquaintance with a represen-
tative portion of Japan's central
mountain range may be made from
Ikao by going due N. over the
Shimizu-goe, and returning by its
neighbour, the Mikuni-toge. Snow
lies on the higher sections of the
route till early in July. The time
should be divided as follows : —
first day, jinriMsha to Yubiso ;
second day (very long) on foot to
Nagasaki, whence jinrikisha to Mui-
ka-machi ; third day, jinrikisha to
Yuzawa at the foot of the Mikuni-
toge, and walk to Futai ; fourth
day, on foot to Saru-ga-kyo, or to
Yu-no-shuku a little short of Fuse ;
fifth day, walk to Ikao. Accommo-
dation is also to be obtained at
l''ubara, Shimizu, Nagasaki, Asakai,
and Nakayama.
Itinerary of the Shimizu-goe.
IKAO to :— Ei aid 31.
Shibukawa 2 15 6
NUMATA 5 13 13
Yubara 5 16 13^
Yubiso 1 11 3^-
Bun5 2 27 6|
Top of Pass 26 12
Shimizu 2 18 6
Nagasaki 1 27 41
MUIKA-MACHI... 2 15
Total 24 10 591-
After descending to Shibul^awa,
the highway leads up the valley of
the Tonegawa, with the great mass
of Akagi-san to the r., and the cen-
tral range ahead and to the 1. Just
beyond the hamlet of Tanashita,
where the river runs in a deep
gorge between perpendicular rocky
chfEs, the scenery becomes very
picturesque. Time is gained by
leaving Numata (see Route 18) to the
r., and diverging 1. at the hamlet of
Togam at the junction of the Kata-
shina-gawa with the Tonegawa.
The main road from Numata, which
is soon regained, is excellent, and
the scenery even more charming.
Hills rise on all sides, repeating
themselves in an endless succession
of green cones. Yubara (1,350 ft.)
is prettUy perched on either side of
the sti-eam which flows far below,
with rocks washed white by some
hot springs. But the crowning
beauty of this day is at the end.
where the mountains are all forest-
clad, and each valley is dominated
by a lofty peak which the snow
streaks till past midsummer.
Shortly before reaching Yxibiso,
we turn sharp 1., and at last leave
the Tonegawa to follow a tributary
stream flo-^ing from the narrow
and sombre valley that leads to the
Shimizu-goe. The prominent peak
rising due E. of the jimction of the
two streams is Hodaka-yama, where
the Tonegawa, has its source.
Tubiso {Inn by Abe Gijuro,
with hot springs) lies 1,650 ft.
above the level of the sea. About
2 m. further on, we leave the good
road hitherto followed for a track
through a gloidous forest of beech
and chestnut-trees to Bund, which
consists of three or foirr poverty-
stricken inns at the foot of the
Shimizu-g-oe. Steep and stony
is the climb hence, but it affords
194
Route 15. — The Shimizu-goe and Mikuni-toge.
picturesque glimpses. At 4,000 ft.
a rest-house is reached, from which
point the road winds round the
mountain side for about 1 m. more
to a small shrine at the actual
summit of the pass, 500 ft. higher,
which marks the boundary of the
provinces of Kotsuke and Echigo.
In front mountain ridges, rising
one behind the other, stretch away
toward the horizon, the most
prominent being Naeba-san to the
W. of the Mikuni-toge. On the
descent to the vill. of Shimizu,
short-cuts may be availed of
through the grass and trees. The
remainder of the way is an almost
mathematically straight Hne down
an easy gradient between parallel
ranges of hills to Nagasaki and
Muika-machi (Inn, Ebisu-ya).
This is a typical Echigo town, "with
its arcaded pathways to keep a
clear passage amid the deep snows
of winter.
[Passenger-boats go down the
liver hence (an affluent of the
Shinano-gawa) to Nagaoka (see
Eoute 26), in 7 to 10 hours.
They are uncomfortable, shoals
and rapids numerous, and the
stoppages tediously frequent.
The jinriMsha road, 14 ri, is
preferable. Hakkai-zan stands
out conspicuously on the r.
during a great part of the way.]
Itinerary of the Mikuni-toge.
Ri Cho. M.
MUIKA-MACHI 3 14 8^
Shiozawa 31 2
Seki 1 32 4^
Yuzawa 1 17 3|
Mitsumata 2 5 5 J
Futai 2 18 6
Asakai 2 5 5 J
Nagai 3 14 8|
Saru-ga-kyo 22 l|
Fuse 1 31 4J
Nakayama 2 31 7
IKAO (approximately) 5 — 12^
Total 28 4 68i
The jinrikisha road from Muika-
machi leads up a very gradual in-
cUne to Ynzaioa, where the as-
cent of the Mikuni-toge begins.
Properly speaking, four passes are
included under this general name,
the first being the Shibahara-ioge,
2,135 ft. above the sea. Descending
to the bank of the Kiyotsu-gawa.
we arrive at the vill. of Mitsumata,
and mount again to reach the
top of the Xakano-ioge, 2,800 ft.,
amidst lovely views of river, forest,
and mountain. We now go down
a little, and mount again to a height
of 3,200 ft., whence far below is
descried the vill. of Futai. A short
descent then leads to Asakai,
which stands at a height of 2,820 ft.
in the midst of gentle sloj)es crown-
ed by densely wooded siimmits.
Here comes the ascent of the Mi-
kuni Fass properly so called, 4,100
ft. above the sea, whence are seen
Akagi-san, Futago-yama, and
Kwannon-dake to the S., and on
the N. the long ridge of Naeba-san.
Nagai stands in a picturesque
gorge. A spiir of the hUls is cross-
ed on the way to Saru-ga-kyo,
where there are hot springs. The
scenery beyond Fuse is magnificent,
the way leading through a precipi-
tous gorge to the top of the Kiri-
ga-kuho-toge, 2,700 ft., at whose far
side nestles the hamlet of Naka-
yama. The path now rises by a
gentle gradient over the moorland
stretching between Komochi-zan 1.,
and Onoko-yama r., to the Naka-
yama-toge, 2,170 ft., and comes in
full view of the Haruna mountains,
with Ikao perched far up above the
valley.
The regular path descends 1.
through Yokobori to Shibukawa,
while ours diverges r., crossing the
Agatsuma-gawa by ferry, and as-
cending over open country to Ikao..
Houte lG.~T/ie Oyama-3Iaebashi Railway.
195
EOUTE
la
The Oyama-]Maebashi Rail way.
TEMPLE-CAVES OF IZUEU.
D
Names
ia'^
Is^l of
Eemarks
S-H
Stations
TOKYO (Ueno).
fSee Northern
48m.
OYAMAJCT
] Railway,
( Boute 65.
54|
Tochigi
57*
Tomiyama
60
Iwafune
641
Sano
fAlight for
67i
Tomita
j caves of
( Izuru,
713
Ashikaga
74A
Yamamae
77"
Omata
81
Kiryu
(Koad to Nik-
83
OMAMA
] ko by Wata-
( rase-gawa.
87
Kunisada
91
Isezaki
94J-
Komakata
99| MAEBASHI.
This line of railway, branching
off from the Northern hne at Oya-
ma, which is reached in 2i hrs.
from Tokyo, traverses the provinces
of Kotsuke and Shimotsuke. It
affords an alternative, though
longer, railway rovite from Tdkyo
to Maebashi, and is the easiest way
of reaching the hot springs of Ikao
in one day from Nikko. The
scenery is pretty aU along the
hne.
Tochigi {Inns, Kana-han, Sasa-
ya) is one of the most important
towns in Shimotsuke. Its chief
product is hempen thread.
Sano {Inn, Saito), also called
Temmyo, is a pretty and prosperous
place. Its pubhc park hes close to
the station. There also exist the
ruins of a castle built by Hidesato
about 900 years ago.
Fi-om Tomita an excursion may
be made, IJ ri, to the curious Hme-
stone Caverns of Izuru, where
a temple detlicated to Kwannon was
founded by Shodo Shonin in the
8th century. In these caves the
saint is fabled to have taken up his
abode, and passed three years in
prayer and meditation. Jinrildshas
are practicable most of the way
From the vill. of Izuru, it is a walk
of 2 did up a ravine to the cave
called Daishi no Iwaya, the mouth
of which hes high up amongst the
precipitous rocks, and is only to be
reached by ladders. Further on is
the cave sacred to Kwannon, reach-
ed by climbing over steep rocks
with the assistance of chains, and
then by ladders up to a platform
on which stand images of Daikokii
and Shodo Shdnin. The guide
lights candles and shows the way
into the cave, which contains a
large stalactite supposed to resem-
ble a back view of the body of
Kwannon. The cave is evidently
much deeper, but pOgiims do not
usually go further in. Close by is
a hollow in the rock, with two
issues. The guide climbs up a
ladder to the upper hole, gets inside,
and after a minute or two appears'
head first, out of the lower. Half a
cho further is another cave, named
after the god Dainichi Nyorai, and
having two branches, — one about
50 yds. deep, the other penetrating
for an unknown distance into the
mountain.
Ashikag-a {Inn, Senkyo-kwan,
with branch at station) is a great
centre of the trade in native cot-
ton and silk goods, the former, how-
ever, mostly woven from foreign
yarns.
Ashikaga was celebrated for its Aca-
demy of Chinese Learning (Ashikaga Gak-
ko), the foundatioa of which institntion
is traditionally ascribed to the eminent
scholar Ono-no-Takamura (A.D.801— 852)
It reached the zenith of its prosperity
in the time of the Shoguns of the
Ashikaga dynasty, its last great benefactor
being Uesugi Norizane who died in 1573.
This academy possessed a magnificent
library of Chinese works, and was the
196
Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.
chief centre of Chinese erudition and of
the worship of Confucius, until the
establishment of the Seido at Yedo
(p. 126). Most of the books are now
dispersed, but the image of Confucius
still attracts visitors.
Kiryu (Inn, Kaneki-ya) lies about
2 ri from its station. The chief pro-
ducts are crape, gauze, and habutai,
a silk fabric reseDibhng taffety. The
large ruanufactory here, called the
Nippon Orimono Kwaisha, merits
inspection. It is fra-nished with
French machinery for the manufac-
ture of satins in European style.
A canal has been cut to bring water
fi'om the neighbouring hills ex-
pressly for the use of this factory.
Omama (Inns, Hayashi-ro, at
station ; Toyoda-kwan, in town) is
situated near the foot of Akagi-san.
The picturesque road from here to
the copper mines of Ashio by the
valley of the Watarase-gawa is de-
scribed in Route 19. Omama itself
is a long straggling town, and, like
the other places on this railway
route, of httle general interest, be-
ing entirely devoted to sericidture.
Inconvenience is caused by the
fact that the railway station hes
over 1 ri from the town. Travellers
coming do-wTi the Watarase-gawa
must allow for this.
Maebashi, see p. 175.
ROUTE 17.
Nikko and Chuzenji.
1. genekaii infoemation. 2. chief
objects of inteeest. 3. objects
of minor inteeest. 4. walks
in the neighbotjehood. 5. chit-
zenji and neighbottrhood. 6.
yumoto. ascent of shieane-san
and other mountains.
1. — GENEEAii Information.
A popular Japanese proverb says,
" Do not use the word magnificent
till you have seen Nikkd : "
Nikko wo minai uchi tea,
"Kekko " to iu na !
Nikko's is a double glory, — a glory
of natiure and a glory of art.
Mountains, cascades, monumental
forest trees, had always stood there.
To these, in the 17th century, were
added the mausolea of the illustri-
ous Shogun leyasu, founder of the
Tokugawa dynasty, and of his
scarcely less famous grandson le-
mitsu. Japanese wood-carding
and painting on w^ood being then
at their zenith, the result was the
most perfect assemblage of shrines
in the whole land. But though
there is gorgeousness, there is no
gaudiness. That sobriety, which is
the key-note of Japanese taste,
gives to all the elaborate designs
and bright colours its own chaste
character.
Properly speaking, Nikko is the
name, not of any single place,
but of a whole mountainous dis-
trict lying about 100 miles to the
N. of Tokyo. Nevertheless, when
people speak of going to Nikko,
they generally mean going to one
of the villages called Uachi-ishi and
Irimachi, between which stand the
mausolea. Lying 2,000 ft. above
the sea, Nikk5 is a delightful sum-
mer resort, for which reason many
foreign residents of Tokyo have
villas there, or else at Chiizenji
(4,385 ft.), 7J m. further on. The
only drawback to the chmate is the
fi'equent rain. Within a radius of
15 miles there are no less than
twenty-five or thirty pretty cas-
cades. Nikkd is noted, among other
things, for the glorious tints of its
fohage in late October.
Nikko is reached in 5 hrs. from
Tokyd by the Northern Railway, car-
riages being changed at Utsunomiya,
where the Niklvo line branches off.
Travellers from Yokohama change
carriages previously at Shinagawa
and Akabane ; but as these connec-
tions often fail, time and trouble will
probably be saved by going on to
Shimbashi, and driving thence
across Tokyo to Ueno station.
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General Information.
197
Ntkko Beanch Line.
dJ
Ss'P
Names
-2 p5'
of
Remarks
ft ^
Stations
/ SeeNorth-
TOKYO (Ueno)
) ern Kail-
65;jm.
UTSUNOMIYA
) way.Route
(65.
69';
Togami
74 -i
Kanuma
79,'
Fubasami
StJ'l
Imaichi
90.^
NIKKO (Hachi-
isbi)
TTie railway diverges to the W.
in order to tap the Beiheishi KaidO
at the thriving town of Kanuma.
Following that highway lined
with ancient cryptomerias, it does
not come in sight of the other and
still more imposing avenue {Nikko
Kaido), 20 m. in length, which leads
from Utstinomiya to Nikko, until
Imaichi is reached, where the two
roads join.
The Reiheishi Kaido was so called, be-
cause in old daj-s the Reiheishi, or Envoy
of the Mikado, used to travel along it,
bearing gifts from his Imperial master to
be offered at the mausoleum of leyasu.
Both avenues, though anciently contin-
uous, now show many breaks, mostly
the result of fires in hamlets along their
course.
Fine views of the Nikk5 moun-
tains are obtained on the r. be-
tween Utsunomiya and Togami ;
later, Nantai-zan alone is seen
towering above a lower range in
the foreground. Then the lofty
cryptomerias of the Reiheishi
Kaido, close to which the railway
runs, shut out the prospect until a
break occurs 10 min. beyond
Fubasami, when the whole motxn-
tain mass appears to the 1. ahead.
The village of Ilachi-ishi being a
long one, and the railway only
touching its lower end, there
remains a stretch of 1^ m. to be
done by jinriMsha from the station
to the hotels.
When leaving Nikko, travellers
are recommended to take jinrikishas
for the 4 m. leading to Imaichi
station, as a means of seeing the
great avenue, the servant or guide
being meanwhile sent fi'om Nikko
station with the luggage.
Hotels. — *Kanaya Hotel, *Nikk5
Hotel (Arai), both in European
style ; Konishi-ya, Kamiyama, Jap.
style. — Foreign stores and fresh
meat can be obtained at Masuju in
the vill., close to the Red Bridge.
English Church. — Near the public
park.
Means of Conveyance. — " Chairs,"
kafjos, or saddle-horses can be
taken to such places as are not
accessible by jinriMsha. There is
a fixed scale of charges. The tram-
way running up the valley is not
for passengers, but only for the
private use of the Ashio Copper
Mine (see p. 216).
Ckiicles are in attendance at the
hotels, and will aiTange for the
purchase of tickets of admittance
to the mausolea. Membership of
the Hoko-kwai, or Nikko Preser-
vation Society (5 yen), confers the
permanent privilege of admission
to all the temples without further
fees. The mausolea of the Shdguns
are open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Visitors must remove their boots at
the entrance to the main shrines.
Nikko is a mart for skins of the
badger, deer, marten, wild-boar,
etc., and various pretty articles
made of a black fossU wood {jindai-
boku) brought from Sendai in the
north. There are some excellent
curio shops.
History. — The range of mountains
known as Nikko-zan lies on the N. W.
boundary of the province of Shimotauke.
The original name was Futa-ara-yama,
which, when written with Chinese ideo-
graphs, may also be pronounced Xi-ko-
zan. According to the popular account,
the name was derived from periodical
hurricanes in spring and autumn, which
issued from a great cavern on Nantai-zan,
the mountain to the N. E. of Chuzenji.
In A. D. 820 Kobo Daishi visited the spot,
made a road to the neighbourhood of the
cavern and changed the name of the
range to NLkko-zan, or " Mountains of the
Sun's Brightness," from which moment
198
Route 17. — NikTco and Chuzenji.
the storms ceased to devastate the country.
Another explanation of the name Futa-
ara-yama, is that it means "The Two
Baging ilountains," in allusion to the two
volcanoes which form part of it, viz,
Nantai-zan, and Shirane-san heyond Yu-
moto. But though the latter breaks out
at frequent intervals, no eruptions have
taken place from Nantai-zan within
memory of man.
From the earliest ages of which any
trustworthy record remains, a Shinto
temple existed at Nikko, which was after-
wards removed to Utsuuomiya. In the
year 767, the first Buddhist temple was
erected by the saint Shodo Shonin. Later
on, in the beginning of the 9th century,
Kobo Daishi, and in the middle of the
same century the abbot Jigaku Daishi,
added to the holy places. The following
account of Shodo Shonin is summarised
from a memoir written by his immediate
disciples. He was born at Takaoka near
the E. boundary of Shimotsuke, in the
year 735. His parents had long desired
to have a son, and at last their wish was
granted by the Thousand-Handed Kwan-
non of the Izuru Caves, to whom they
had prayed for offspring. Various
portents accompanied his birth : loud
thunder was heard, a miraculous cloud
hung over the cottage, flowers fell from
heaven into the courtyard, and a strange
perfume filled the air. From his earliest
years the saint was devoted to the wor-
ship of the gods, and amused himself by
raising toy pagodas and shrines of earth
and stones. In his twentieth year he
secretly quitted his father's house, and
took up his abode in the cave of the
Thousand-Handed Kwannon at Izuru.
After passing three years in prayer and
meditation, he dreamt in mid-winter
of a great mountain N. of Izuru, on the
top of which lay a sword more than 3
ft. in length. On awaking, he left the
cave, and endeavoured to make his way
in the direction indicated ; but the deep
snow opposed ditficulties almost insur-
mountable. Vowing to sacrifice his life
rather than abandon the enterprise, he
persevered, and at last reached a point
from which he beheld the object of his
search. Ascending to the top of the
mountain, he gave himself up to austere
discipline, living on fruits which were
brought to him by a supernatural being.
After thus jiassing three more years, he
returned to Izuru, and in 762 visited the
temple of Yakushi-ji, not far from Ishi-
bashi on the Oshu Kaido, where, meeting
some Chinese priests, he was admitted by
them as a novice. He remained in the
monastery for five years, and then
returned to the mouatain now called
Kobu-ga-hara. From its summit he be-
held, on the range to the N., four
miraculous clouds of different colours
rising straight up into the sky, and he
at once set off to reach them, carrying
his holy books and images in a bundle on
his back. On reaching the spot whence
the clouds had seemed to ascend, he
found his advance barred by a broad
river, which poured its torrent over huge
rocks and looked utterly impassable.
The saint fell upon his knees and prayed,
whereupon there appeared on the opposite
bank a divine being of colossal size,
dressed in blue and black robes, and
having a string of skulls hung round his
neck. This being cried out that he would
help him to pass the stream, as he had
once helped the Chinese pilgrim Hstian
Chuang across the Eiver of Flowing Sand.
With this promise, he flung across the
river two green and blue snakes which
he held in his right hand, and in an
instant a long bridge was seen to span
the waters, like a rainbow floating among
the hills ; but when the saint had crossed
it and reached the northern bank, both
the god and the snake-bridge suddenly
vanished. Having thus attained the ob-
ject of his desires, Shodo Shonin built
himself a hut wherein to practise his
religious exercises. One night a man
appeared to him in a vision, and told him
Index to Plan of Nikk5 Temples.
1. Mangwanji.
2. Public Park.
3. Pagoda.
4. O Kari-den.
5. Ni-5-morL.
6. Sacred Store-houses.
7. Sacred Stable.
8. Holy-water Cistern.
9. Kyozo.
10. Bell-tower.
11. Temple of Yakushi.
12. Yomei-mon.
13. Kagura Stage.
14. Goma-do.
15. ]VlLkoslu-do.
16. Kara-mon.
17. Honden.
18. Tomb of leyasu.
19. Futa-ara Jinja.
20. Futatsu-do.
21. Tomb of Jigen Daishi.
22. Ryuko-ia.
23. Ni-o-mon.
24. Holy-water Cistern.
25. Niten-mon.
26. Yasha-mon.
27. Honden.
28. Tomb of lemitsu.
iUot <-»»c V.511
TloJcli; />;o/J TViQ rioT-t QliV.r.f
SO lower aown me sireaui, is u.
called Hotoke-iwa, and the mansoleum , n j « m t, • i
was commeuced in December of the same so-called _ iemporary Undge
TEMPLES AND TOMBS
OF NIKKO
SiPil
»A
^%iri[ff . - fills
^1
i^>-'«v:
5. Ni-o-mon.
I 19 Fiitn-arft .Tini
History. Red Bridge.
199
that the hill rising to the north was called
the Mount of the Four Gods, and was
inhabited liy the Aziire Dragon, the Ver-
million Bird, tlic White Tiger, and the
Sombre Warrior, who respectively occu-
pied its E., S., W., and N. peaks. He
climbed the hill, and found that he had
arrived at the goal of hi.s journey ; for
there were the four clouds which he had
originally set out to seek, rising up around
him. He proceeded accordingly to build
a shrine, which he named the Monastery
of the Four Dragons {Shi-him-ryu-ji). In
the year 767 he resolved to ascend the
highest peak of the group, and after duly
preparing himself by religious exercises,
he set out upon this new enterprise. After
ascending for a distance of over 40 ri
(probably the ancient ri, of which 1 = 1
mile), he came to a great lake (Vhuzenji)
on the flank of the mountain (Nant'ai-
zan) : but in spite of his prayers found it
impossible to proceed any further, on
account of the deep snow and the terrific
peals of thunder which roared about the
mountain ti>p. He therefore retraced his
steijs to Nikko, where he spent fourteen
years in fitting himself, by the repetition
of countless prayers and the performance
of penances, for the task which he was
unwilling to abandon. In 781 he renewed
the attempt unsuccessfully, but in the
following year he finally reached the sum-
mit, accompanied by some of his dis-
ciples. It seemed to him a region such
as gods and other supernatural beings
would naturally choose for their re8id(n(^e,
and he therefore erected a Buddhist
temple called Chiizenji, in which he
placed a life-size image of the Thousand-
handed Kwannon, and close by it a
Shinto temple in honour of the Gongen of
Nikko. He also built a shrine to the
" Great King of the Deep Sand " {Jinja
Dai-o) at the point where he had crossed
the stream. .Sh(5do Shonin died in 817 in
the odour of sanctity. Manr}ivaiiji or IHn-
noji is the modern name of the monastery
founded by him at Nikko.
In A. D. IGIG. when Jigen Daishi was
abbot, the second Shogun of the Toku-
gawa dynasty, acting on the dying in-
junctions of his father leyasu, sent two
high officials to Nikko to choose a resting-
place for his father's body, which had
been temporarily interred at Kuno-zan, a
beautiful spot near Shizuoka on the To-
kaido. They selected a site on a hill
called Hotoke-iwa, and the mausoleum
was commenced in December of the same
year. The mortuary shrine and some of
the surrounding edifices were completed
in the epriiig of the succeeding year, "ud
on the "JOth April the procession bearing
the corpse started from Kuno-zan reach-
ing Nikko on the 8th May. The <-offin
was deposited in the tomb, with impres-
sive Buddhist services in which both the
reigning Shogun and an .jnvoy from the
Mikado took part. In the year 1C44 Jigon
Daishi died. The next abbot was a court
noble, the next to him was a son of the
Emperor Go-Mizuno-o, since which time
down to the revolution of 18G8 the abbot
of Nikko was always a prince of the Im-
perial blood. He usually resided at Ueno
in Yedo, and visited Nikko three times
annually.
The great annual festival is held
on the 1st and 2nd June. The
sacred palanquins (mikoshi) con-
taining the divine symbols are then
borne in procession, when ancient
costumes, masks, and armour are
donned by the villagers, old and
young alike taking part in the dis-
l^lay. Another, but less elaborate,
ceremonial is observed on the 17th
September.
2. — Chief Objects of Intekest.
On isstiing from the upper end of
the village, one of the first objects
to arrest attention is the Mi-
hashi, a Eed Bridge spanning the
Daiya-gawa, a stream about 40 ft.
wide between the stone walls which
here confine its course. The bridge
is supported on stone piers of great
sohdity, fixed into the rocks be-
tween which the stream flows, and
its colour forms a striking contrast
to the deep gi'een of the cryi)to-
merias on the opposite bank.
It was formerly closed to all persons
except the Shogun, save twice a year
when it was oijened to iiilgrims. It stiiuds
on the spot wliere, according to the legend
above related Shodo Shonin crossed the
river. His hut stood on the site overlook-
ing it, now occupied by the Kanaya
Hotel.
The present structure, which is
84 ft. long and 18 ft. wide, was built
in 1638 and last repaired in 1892.
The gates at each end are kept con-
stantly closed. Forty yanls or
so lower down the stream, is the
so-called "Temporary Bridge"
(Kari-bashi), which is open to or-
dinary mortals. Crossing this
and tiuning to the 1., the Aisitor
ascends o, paved slope through a
grove of cryptomerias, and reaches
the enclosure in which formerly
stood the Ilombd, or Abbot's Palace.
This is commonly spoken of as
200
Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.
Mangwanji or Rinnoji, names
■which, however, properly denote
all the Nikko temple buildings
collectively. The road to be taken
skirts the S. v^^all of this en-
closure, and then follows its W.
side. On the 1. of the avenue is the
Choyo-kwan, formerly used for the
reception of grandees of the Toku-
gawa family, but now the summer
residence of the young Imperial
Princesses, Tstine - no - Miya and
Kane-no-Miya.
Within the Mangwanji enclosure
stands the Sambutsu-do, or Hall of
the Three Buddhas, so called from
gigantic gUt images of the
Thousand-handed Kwannon r.,
Amida in the centre, and the
Horse-headed Kwannon 1., which
are enshrined behind the main
altar. There are other images, and
a beautiful silk mandara of Dai-
nichi Nyorai and the 36 Buddhas.
Turning towards the pretty Land-
scape Garden, one sees at the back
of the Sambutsu-d5 a row of
small painted images, among which
Fudo and his followers, coloured
bhie, occupy the place of honour.
Close by is a pillar called Sorinto,
erected in 1G43 for the sake, it
is said, of averting evil infliaences.
It consists of a cylindrical
copper column 42 ft. high, of a
black colour, supported by hori-
zontal bars crossing through its
centre, which rest on shorter col-
umns of the same material. The
top is adorned mth a series of four
cups shaped like lotus-flowers, fi'om
the petals of which depend smaU
bells. Just beneath the lowest of
these cups are four small me-
dallions, with the Tokugawa crest
of three asaruni leaves (aoi no mon
or mitsu-aoi). Notice the two fine
bronze lanterns. On the opposite
side of the road is the new Public
Park, in Japanese style.
Mausoleum of leyasu. As-
cending some broad steps between
two rows of cryptomerias, we come
to the gi'anite torii presented by
the Daimyo of Chikuzen from his
own quarries in the year 1618. Its
total height is 27 ft. 6 in., and the
diameter of the columns is 3 ft. 6
in. The inscription on the columns
merely records the fact of their
presentation and the name of the
donor. On the 1. is a five-storied
pagoda of graceful form, painted
in harmonious colours. It rises to
a height of 104 ft., and the roofs
measure 18 ft. on each side. This
monument was the offering in 1659
of Sakai Wak;Tsa-no-Kami, one of
the chief supporters of the Toku-
gawa family. Eound the lower
storey are life-like painted carvings
of tie twelve signs of the zodiac.
Opposite the pagoda, and standing
amidst the trees to the r. of the
steps, is the Kari-den, a building
used to hold the image of leyasu
whenever the main temple is under
repair. From the torii, a pavement
leads to the bottom of the steps
Mausoleum of leyasu.
201
crowned by the Ni-o-mon, or Gate of
the Two Kings. The gigantic figures
of these gods, which formerly
occupied the niches on the outside
of this gate, have been removed,
and their places taken by gilt Awa-
inu and Koma-inu. On the tops of
the pillars, at the four external
angles, are representations of a
mythological animal called baku.
One of the most ancient Chinese
classical books says of this animal : "In
shape it resembles a goat : it has nine
tails, four ears, and its eyes are on its
back." According to another authority.
" It resembles a wolf, with the trunk of
an elephant, the eyes of a rhinoceros, the
tail of a bull, and the leg.s of a tiger." It
is credited with the power to avert evil,
and is therefore sometimes depicted in
gold lacquer on the pillows used by the
nobility, because it will be able to devour
any bad dreams that may pass before
their sleeping eyes.
The heads on the central pillars of
the two outer ends of the structure
are hons ; in the niches r. and 1. of
the Hon at one end are unicorns,
and in the corresponding niches at
the other end are fabuloiis beasts
called takujil, which are supposed
to be endowed with the power of
speech, and only to appear in the
world when a virtuous sovereign
occupies the throne. The doorways
are ornamented with elephants'
heads ; the first portico has hons
and peonies, and the second tigers.
The interiors of the niches on the
outside of the gateway are decorated
with tapirs and peonies, those on
the inside niches with bamboos.
The carvings of tigers under the
eaves on the interior side of the
gateway are excellent. Notice also
the fine old bronze flower-vases
from Luchu.
Passing through the gateway, the
visitor finds himself in a com-tyard
raised high above the approach,
and enclosed by a timber wall
painted bright red. The three
handsome buildings arranged in a
zigzag are storehouses, where
various utensils employed in the
religious ceremonies performed in
honour of leyasu, pictures, furni-
ture, and other articles used by him
during his life-time, and many other
treasures belonging to the temple,
are deposited. The third is re-
markable for two curious painted
carvings of elephants in rehef in
the gable of the nearest end, which
are ascribed to Hidari Jingoro, the
drawing having been made by the
celebrated artist Tan-yu. It will be
noticed that the joints of the hind-
legs are represented bent in the
wrong direction.
On the 1. of the gate stands a
conifer of the species called koya-
maki, surrounded by a stone
railing.
Some say that this is the identical tree
which leyasu was in the habit of carrying
about with him in his palanquin, when it
was still small enough to be held in a
flower-pot.
Close to this tree is a stable for
the sacred white pony kept for the
use of the god. This gateway, like
the others to be noticed fiirther on,
is beautifully carved.
Over the doors are some cleverly
executed groujjs of monkeys, for
whose signification see Koshin (p.
50). A very interesting object is
the On Chozu-ya, containing a holy-
water cistern made of one sohd
piece of granite, and sheltered by a
roof supported on twelve square pil-
lars of the same mateiial. It was
erected in 1618. The pediment of
the roof contains a pair of -winged
dragons, carved in wood and paint-
ed. The beautifully decorated
building beyond the holy-water
basin is called the Kyozo, and is
the depository of a complete col-
lection of the Budtlhist scriptures,
contained in a fine revolving octa-
gonal book-case with red lacquer
panels and gilt pillars. In front are
smihng figiares of Fu Daishi and his
sons (see p. 47), whence the name
of Warai-do popiilarly apphed to
this edifice. Paintings of angels
on a gilt ground occupy the clere-
story of the interior, txx the centre
of the court stands a fine bronze
torii, with the Tokugawa crest in
202
Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.
gold on the tops of the pillars and
on the tie-beam.
A flight of steps gives access to
a second court, along the fi'ont of
which runs a stone balustrade.
Just inside are two stone hons in
the act of leaping down, presented
by lemitsu. On the r. stand a bell-
tower, a bronze candelabrum pre-
sented by the King of Luchu,
and a bell given by the king of Ko-
rea, called the " Moth-eaten Bell,"
because of there being a hole in the
top, just under the ring by which it
is suspended. On the 1. stand a
bronze lantern fi'oni Korea, a can-
delabrum from Holland, and a
dritm-tower. no unworthy compan-
ion to the bell-tower opposite. (Be
it remarked that Holland, Korea,
and Luchu were considered to be
Japan's three vassal states.) The
lantern is a line and sohd piece of
workmanship ; but its style and
construction indicate that it does
not owe its origin to Korea. The
two candelabra and the lantern, as
well as the bronze candle-brackets
fixed upon the interior wall of the
couil, r. and 1. of the steps, probably
came from Europe through Dutch
or Portuguese traders. Tm-o iron
standard lanterns on the r. of the
steps, presented by Date Masa-
mune, Daimyo of Sendai, and the
same number on the 1. given by the
Daimyo of Satsuma, merit atten-
tion. They are dated 1641. The
total number of lanterns contribut-
ed by various Daimyos is one
hundred and eighteen.
At the 1. extremity of this same
platform stands the Temple of
Yakushi, dedicated to Horaiji Mine-
no-Yakushi, the imtron saint of
leyasu, for which reason its Bud-
dhist emblems have been left intact,
while Shintd influence has more or
less modihed the other shiines
during the present reign. A native
guide-book tiiily remarks, " Though
the exterior of this temple is but
ordinary black and red, the orna-
mentation of the interior has no
parallel in Nikk5." It is a blaze of
gold and harmonious coloirrs. On
either side of the altar stand images
of the Shi-Tenn5, flanked by Yaku-
shi's twelve followers. The monster
dragon in sepia occupying the whole
ceiling is by Kano Yasunobu.
Proceeding towards the steps that
lead up to the platform on which
stands the exquisitely beautiful gate
called Yomei-mon, observe the fence
on either side, with fine medaUions
of mountain birds in the upper pan-
els, and water-fowl in the lower.
The columns supporting the gate
are carved with a minute geometri-
cal pattern, and painted white. The
marking of the hair on the two
tigers (moku-me no tora) in the
central medallion of the 1. hand
pillar, is obtained from the natural
vein of the wood. The pillar next
beyond has the i)attern carved
upside down, which was done pur-
posely, o-wing to a superstitious
notion that the flawless perfection
of the whole structure might bring
misfortune on the House of Toku-
gawa by exciting the jealousy of
Heaven. It is called the Ma-yoke
no Hasldra, or Evil-Averting
Pillar. The side niches are lined
with a pattern of graceful arabes-
ques founded ujaon the peony; those
on the outside contain the images
called Sadaijin and Udaijin, armed
with bows and caiTying quivers full
of arrows on their backs ; the inner
niches have Ama-inu and Koma-
inu. The capitals of the columns
are formed of iinicorns' heads. The
architrave of the second storey
is adorned -with white dragons'
heads where the cross-beams inter-
sect, and in the centre of each side
and end is a magnificently involved
dragon "with golden claws. Above
the architrave of the lower storey,
projects a balcony which runs all
round the building. The railing is
formed of children at play {Kara-
ko-asohl) and other subjects. Below
again are grouj)s of Chinese sages
and immortals. The roof is sup-
ported by gilt dragons' heads ^ith
gaping ciimson throats, and from
Mausoleum and Tomb cf leyasu.
203
the top a demon looks down. The
Indian ink drawings of dragons on
the ceilings of the two porticoes are
by Tan-yu.
Passing through the Yomei-mon,
we enter a third court in which
the Buddhist priests used to recite
their Hturgies at the two great
annual festivals. Of the two build-
ings on the r., one contains a stage
for the performance of the sacred
kaijura dances, and in the other,
called Goma-do, was an altar for
burning the fragrant cedar while
prayers were recited. On the 1. is
the Mikoshi-do, containing the
palanquins borne in procession on
the 1st June, when the deified
spirits of leyasu, Hideyoshi, and
Yoiitomo are supposed to occuiDy
them. So heavy are they that each
requires seventy- five men to carry
it. By the side of the Mikoshi-do
there is an exhibition of relics con-
nected with leyasu.
The next object of interest is the
Kara-mon, or Chinese Gate. It
gives admittance to the main
shrine, the enclosure being sur-
roiinded by the tamagaki, or fence,
forming a quadrangle each side of
which is 50 yds. long, and is con-
structed of gilt trellis with borders
of coloured geometrical designs.
Above and beneath these again are
carvings of birds in gi'oups, about
8 in. high and 6 ft. long, ^^dth back-
grounds of grass, carved in relief
and gilt. The pillars of the Kara-
mon are composed of Chinese
woods inlaid with great skill and
beauty, the subjects being the
plum-tree, dragon, and bamboo.
The two white figures under the
roof are Chinese sages, while the
lower row represents the Emperor
Gyo (Yao), the founder of the
Chinese monarchy, suiTounded by
his court. The folding-doors of
the llonden, or oratory, are lavishly
decorated -with arabesques of peo-
nies in gilt relief. Over the door and
windows of the front, are nine com-
]5artments tilled with birds carved
in relief, four on each side of the
building ; and there are four more
at the back, on each side of the
corridor leading to the chapel. The
interior is a large matted room,
42 ft. long by 27 ft. deej), with an
ante-chamber at each end. That
on the r., which was intended for
the Shogun, contains pictures of
lions on a gold ground, and four
carved oak panels of phoenixes
which at first sight seem to be in
low rehef, but prove, on closer
examination, to be figures formed of
various woods glued on to the
surface of the panel. The rear
compartment of the ceihng is of
carved wood, with the Tokugawa
crest in the centre surrounded by
phoenixes and chrysanthemums.
The opposite ante-chamber has the
same number of panels, the sub-
jects of which are eagles executed
with much spirit, and a carved and
painted ceihng with an angel sur-
rounded by chrysanthemums. The
gold paper gohei at the back of the
oratory, and a circular mirror are
the only ornaments left, the Bud-
dhist bells, gongs, sutras, and so
forth, having been removed. Two
wide steps at the back lead down
into the Stone Chamber, so called
because paved with stone under the
matted wooden floor. The ceihng
consists of square panels, with gold
di'agons on a blue ground. Beyond
are the gilt doors of the chapel,
which is divided into four apart-
ments not accessible to visitors.
The first, called Meiden, where
the offerings are presented, is a
chastely decorated chamber having
a coffered ceiling with phoenixes
diversely designed, and carved
beams and pillars of plain wood.
In it stand gilt and sUken gohei,
a gift of the present Emperor.
To reach leyasu' s Tomb, w'e issue
again from the Kara-mon, and pass
between the Goma-do and Kagura-
do to a door in the E. side of the
gallery. Over this door is a carving
called the JVemuri no Neko, or
Sleeping Cat, one of Hidari Jin-
goro's most famous works, though
204
Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.
some visitors will be disappointed
at its insigniiicanee amidst so much
grandeur. From this a moss-grown
stone gallery and several steep
flights — of about two hundred steps
altogether — lead to the tomb on the
bin behind. After passing through
the iorii at the top of the last
flight, we reach another oratory
used only when that below is undei--
going repair's. The tomb, shaped
like a small pagoda, is a single
bronze casting of a light colour,
produced, it is said, by the admix-
ture of gold. In front stands a low
stone table, bearing an immense
bronze stork ^vith a brass candle in
its mouth, an incense-burner of
bronze, and a vase with artificial
lotus-flowers and leaves in brass.
The whole is surrounded by a stone
wall surmounted by a balustrade,
the entrance being through a bronze
gate not open to the pubUc, the roof
of which, as well as the gate itself,
is a sohd casting. Before it sit
bronze Koma-lmi and Ama-inu.
On leaving the mausoleum of
leyasu, we turn to the r. at the bot-
tom of the steps, and pass along
the avenue iinder the wall to the
open space through the to7'ii, where
stands r. the Shinto temple of
Futa-ara Jinja, dedicated to the god
Onamuji.
When Shodo Shonin, in A. D. 782,
reached the top of Nantai-zan, the tute-
lary deities of the region appeared to
him, and promised to watch over the
welfare of human beings and the progress
of Buddhism. These were the god
Onamuji, the goddess Tagori-hime his
wife, and their son Ajisuki-taka-hikone.
Japan is believed to have been saved on
many occasions from the perils of civil
war and invasion by the intervention of
these divine beings, who are styled the
"Three Original Gongen of Nikko ;"' and
local tradition avers that it was owing to
the efficacy of the prayers here oii'ered
that the Mongol invaders in the second
half of the 13th century were repulsed
with such terrible loss. The chief festival
of the temple is held on the 17th April.
In the prettily decorated Honden
behind, various antiqiie objects,
such as swords, vestments, lacquer,
magatama, etc. are exhibited.
In one corner of the enclosure
stands a bronze lantern called the
Bakemono Toro, presented in 1292.
This lantern owes its name to the tradi-
tion that it anciently had the power of
taking the form of a demon, and annoy-
ing the iuhabitants of the locality on
dark nights, until a courageous man
attacked it, and with his sword gave it a
wound which is still visible on the cap.
Turning to the 1. and descend-
ing, we perceive two red-lacquered
bmldings {Futatsu-do), standing
together and connected by a cover-
ed gallery. The smaller is dedi-
cated to Kishi Bojin and Fugen
Bosatsu, the larger to Aniida.
Bound the sides of the interior are
ranged a number of Buddhist im-
ages. It is also called Yoritomo-
do, because here are preserved the
bones of Yoritomo, which were
discovered near the site of the Ni-
o-mon gate of leyasu's mausoleum
about the year 1617.
How this statement is to be reconciled
with the existence of Yoritomo's tomb at
Kamakura (see p. 101), must be left to
archseologists to determine.
Passing under the gallery which
connects these temples, and going
up the avenue, we come to the
resting-place of Jigen Baishi, other-
wise called Tenkai Daisojo, abbot
of Nikkd at the time of leyasu's
interment. There is the usual
mortuary shiine in front ; the tomb
is a massive stone structure of stupa
shape, guarded by life-size stone
effigies of the Buddhist gods called
collectively Roku-bu-Ten. To the
1., up a small flight of steps, are the
unpretending tombs of the prince-
abbots of Nikko, thirteen in num-
ber.
Mausoleum, of lemitsu. The
building seen to the r., before we
mount the great stone staircase, is
Ryuko-in, the residence of the
priests attached to this temple. The
first gate leading towards the mau-
soleum is a Ni-o-mon containing
two pairs of INi-o, those in the
niches of the inner side having been
removed hither from the gate of
Mausoleum of lemitsu. Minor Sights.
205
leyasii's mausoleiini. Under a
beautiful structure r., supported by
granite pillars, is a massive granite
water-basin. The dragon on the
ceiling is by Kan5 Yasunobu.
A flight of steps leads to the gate
caUed Niten-mon. The niches on
the outside contain a red statue of
Komoku on the 1., and on the r. a
green one of Jikoku, while the
inside niches are tenanted by the
Gods of Wind and Thunder.
Three more flights conduct ns to
the Vasha-mon, or Demon Gate,
whose niches contain the Shi-Tennd.
Turning round, we have before us
an exquisite view of foliage.
The oratory and chapel of this
mausoleum are less magnificent
than those of leyasu. The former
is crowded with the insignia of
Buddhism. Two large horn lanterns
pointed out as Korean are evidently
Dutch. The Tomb is reached by
flights of steps up the side of the
hill on the r. of the chapel. It is of
bronze, and in the same style as
that of leyasu, but of a darker hue.
The gates in front, likewise of
bronze, are covered with large San-
skrit characters in shining brass.
3. — Objects of Minok Inteeest.
Besides the mausolea of the
Shoguns, there are various objects
at Nikkd possessing a lesser degree
of interest. All are within a short
distance of the great temples, and
may be combined within the limits
of a forenoon. One of these is the
Hongu, a temple dedicated to the
Shinto god Ajisuld-taka-hikone,
whose name imphes that he was
mighty mth the spade. This temple
was built by Shodo Shonin in A.D.
808, close to the Buddhist monas-
tery which he had founded. It is
reached by ascending the stone
steps that face the end of the
bridge, and then turning to the
right. The small temple, near the
three-storied pagoda in the same
enclosure, is dedicated to the Horse-
headed Kwannon.
About 4" hr. walk from the Hon-
gu, up the Inari-kawa valley to the
r. of leyasu's mausoleum, stands
the 8an-no-miya, a small red
shrine surrounded by a stone
balustrade. Women here offer up
pieces of wood, similar in shape
to those used in the Japanese
game of chess, in the belief that
this will enable them to pass safe-
ly through the perils of childbirth.
Beside it is the Kaisan-do, a red-
lacquered building 36 ft. square,
dedicated to Shodo Shonin, the
•' pioneer of the mountain," as the
name implies. Peeping through
the grating which forms the window
on the E. side, we see an image of
Jizo occupying a lofty position, with
the efdgy of the saint below, and
those of ten disciples ranged r. and
1. Behind are the tombs of the
saint and three of his disciples.
At the base of the rugged and pre-
cipitous rock at the back of the
Kaisan-do are some rude Buddhist
images, from which the hill takes
its name of Holoke-iwa. On the
summit of this hill stands the tomb
of leyasu. Proceeding along the
stone-paved avenue, we pass a small
shrine sacred to Tenjin. A large
stone close to the path on the r.,
just beyond this, is called the Te-
kake-ishi, or Hand-touched Stone,
said to have been sanctified by the
imposition of Kobd Daishi's hands.
Fragments of it are valued as a
protection against noxious in-
fluences. Further on is a stone
bearing a half-efliaced inscription,
erected over the spot where lies the
horse which carried leyasu at the
decisive battle of Seki-ga-hara, in
the year 1600. After the death of
the master whom he had borne ta
victory, the horse was set free in
the mountains of Nikko, and died
in 1630. The next object to be
noticed is an immense cryptomeria,
7 ft. in diameter a little above the
base, called the li-mori no sugi,
from the supposed resemblance to a
heap of boiled rice which its
pendent branches present. The
206
Route 17. — Nikko and Ghuzevji.
tree is said to have been planted by
a deputation representing 800
BiiddMst nuns of the proYince of
Wakasa. Close to the path on the
1. is the Somen-ga-taki, or Vermicelli
Cascade, so called fi-om a fancied
likeness to a bowl of that food.
Another and prettier name given to
it is Shira-ito, " White Thread."
A short way beyond stands the
temple of Takino-o, founded at the
beginning of the 9 th century,
and dedicated to Tagori-Hime.
The curiosities of this spot — a fa-
vourite one for short picnics — are
the Sam-hon Sufji, three sacred
cryptomeria trees enclosed by a
palisade ; the pool called Sake no
Izumi, fi'om a tradition that pure
sake once welled up fi'om it, as
water does at the present day ; and
a large stone, the KG-dane-isfd, to
which prayers for offspring are
offered up by the childless.
A pleasant way back to the
hotels leads by the path (seen
on the 1. just below Romen-ga-taM,
as we came up the avenue) over
the ravine to Futa-ara Jinja. At
the top of the ravine stands a
small shidne called the Gijoja-dd,
where iron sandals ^ndth strings of
twisted iron are hung up by pilgrims
who pray for the muscular develop-
ment of their lower Kmbs. The
path leading up behind the Gyoja-do
is that taken for the ascent of
Nyoho-zan described on p. 208.
4. — WAiiKS rs" THE Xkighboue-
HOOD.
1. The Public Garden [Koen-
chi) and other fine landscape gar-
dens in Japanese style, — all ^vithin
a few minutes of the hotels.
2. Gamraan-ga-fuclii. About
20 min. walk from the bridge, along
the coui'se of the Daiya-gawa, is a
deep pool called G-amman-ga-f uchi.
A hut has been erected here close
to the boiling eddies, opposite to a
precipitous rock on which is en-
gi'aved the Sanskrit word Maimnam.
It seems impossible that any one
should have been able to get across
to perform the work, and so it is
ascribed to Kobo Daishi, who ac-
complished the feat by throwing
his pen at the rock. But there is
authority for attributing it to a
disciple of Jigen Daishi, only two
centiuies ago. On the r. bank of
the river stand a large number of
images of Amida ranged in a long
row, many of them, alas I mutilat-
ed thirty years ago by native van-
dalism.
It is asserted that they always count
up difleiently, however often the attempt
be made, — a belief bearinsc a curious
resemblance to the superstition which
prevailed regarding the Druidical stones
in various parts of Euglaud. The largest
of these images was some years ago wash-
ed down the river by a flood as far as
Imaichi, arriving there in perfect safety.
It now stands at the E. end of that town,
with its face towards Niklio, wearing a
pink bib and receiving much adoration
from the country folk.
3. Dainichi-do, just beyond
Gamman-ga-fuchi, on the 1. bank
of the liver, merits a visit for
the sake of its prettily arranged
garden. The water rising from a
spring in one of the artificial ponds,
is considered the purest in the
neighbourhood of Nikko.
4. Toyama. The nearest emi-
nence fiom which an extensive ■siew
of the plain can be obtained is To-
yama, a hill rising up somewhat
in the form of a huge animal cou-
chant on the 1. bank of the Inari-
gawa, which flows down by the
side of the temples. Fi-om the
bridge to the top is | hr. climb.
The last bit of the ascent is steep.
The large mountain seen on the
extreme 1. is Keicho-zan, also called
Takahara-yama ; right oiDposite is
the long ridge of Haguro-yama.
Tsukuba's double peak is unmis-
takable. Turning round, we see
the whole of the magnificent range
formed by Nantai-zan, 0-3Ianago,
Ko-ilanago, Nyoh5-zan, and Aka-
nagi.
5. Kirifuri-no-taki, or the
llist-falling Cascade. By taking a
wide sweep round the base of To-
Walks near Nikko.
207
yama and over tmdnlating country
to the S., this cascade may be
reached in 1\ hr. A tea-house on
the hill above commands a pictiar-
esqiie view of the fall ; and from
the top of a knoll just beyond the
tea-house, a grand view is obtained
of the country towards the E., S.,
and W. A steep and rough path
leads down to the foot, where
the fall is seen to better advantage.
6. Makkura-daki, or Pitch-
dark Cascade. On leaving Kirifuri,
we retrace the path for a few steps,
and then follow another to the r.
for about 2 m. This path crosses
the stream above Kirifuri three
times, and then passing over a hill,
leads to another stream.
[Just before the first crossing, a
path down the stream leads in
2 or 3 min. to a small fall called
Chdji-taki.'\
Here we leave the path and plunge
into a thicket, keeping the stream
on the r., a short rough climb bring-
ing us to Makkura-daki, a fall of
about 60 ft. in height. The best
view is obtained from a point a few
yards up the hill to the 1. The
fall shows prettily through the
trees as it is approached, and al-
together well repays the toil of
reaching it. As the path is easUy
mistaken, it is advisable to procure
a guide, who will also be able to
lead one back to Nikko a different
way.
7. Jakko (the site of the temple
of Jakko, and Nana-taki cascade).
The way lies through the village of
Irimachi, where the Crown Prince
has a palace, and turns off at right
angles just before descending to
the bridge, from which it is 40 min.
walk further to the temple of
Jakko. The edifice that stood here
was burnt down in 1876, and the
splendid avenue of pines and cry-
pto merias which formed the ap-
proach has been ruthlessly destroy-
ed. Behind the site of the temples
is a cascade, or rather a series of falls
about 100 ft. in height. It goes by
various names, one being Nana-
taki, and must not be confounded
with the other falls of the same
name mentioned on p. 208.
8. The Deer Park {Go Ryodd).
About half-way between Irimachi
and Jakko, a path turns off r., lead-
ing up a small valley in which the
Deer Preserves are situated. The
animals, which are larger than the
native breed, were presented by the
Emperor of Germany. Five min.
walk takes one to the keeper's
hol^se, where the presentation of a
visiting card will ensure admission.
At the top of the ravine (15 min.
walk), two pretty cascades fall over
rocky beds. The coolness of this
spot makes it a favourite one for
picnics.
9. Urami-ga-taki, or Back
View Cascade, 50 ft. high, derives
its name from the possibility of
passing behind and under the fall.
The road, 1 hr. on foot or by jin-
riMsha, turns to the r. shortly after
crossing an affluent of the Daiya-
gawa ; and from the tea-houses by
the side of a stream, the remainder
of the way is an easy climb of 5
cho. Passing under the fall and up
the ravine on the other side, one
obtains a picturesque view of the
rocky basin overhung with trees, of
the cascade, and of the deep pool
into which it tumbles. Another
basin with a email cascade falUng
into it lies some 5 min. behind the
main fall. — One can get into the
Jikwan road (next walk. No. 10)
fi'om Urami by a path straight up
the hill behind the tea-shed.
Urami may also be conveniently
visited on the way back from Chu-
zenji, by taking the path which
branches off 1. a little below Uma-
gaeshi, and by tm'ning to the 1.
again at Klyotaki, where a path
leads through the woods for a
distance of about 1 ri to the tea-
houses above mentioned.
10. Jikwan-no-taki (cascade).
After crossing the stream by the
side of the tea-houses below Urami,
a path will be found r, a few steps
beyond. It leads up the hill for a
208
Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.
little over 1 mile, to a point where it
divides, the r. leading to Jikwan, the
1. to Xantai-zan. At Jikwan there is
a pretty effect of water falling in a
dozen streams over a ledge of rock.
The view from the top of the fall
down the valley is very fine. About
1 m. below Jikwan, and visible
from a small clearing at the edge
of the bill on the way up, is another
fall called Jikican Hatsune.
11. Naka-iwa. This excursion,
8 m. from Nikko, mostly on the flat
and ujider shade, affords an oppor-
tunity of seeing a portion of the
great avenue, and can be done in
jinriMsha. Naka-iwa, as the name
implies, is a huge rock in the middle
of the river Kinugawa, at one of its
most pictiiresque parts, where the
divided stream is spanned by two
bridges. The way hes down the
avenue as far as the town of Ima-
ichi, whence it turns N. along the
main road leading to the province
of Aizii. On an eminence close to
the bridges and overlooking the
Naka-iwa, stands a tea-house suit-
able for picnicking. One may also
visit the curious massive boulders
called Eago - ma {" palanquin
rocks "), 1 hr. further down the 1.
bank of the river, or 45 min. along
the r. bank. The latter way some-
times involves the fording of a
stream. On the other hand it
shortens the return journey, as the
jinriMshas may be sent back to the
hamlet of Kura-ga-saki, which
can be rejoined in 45 min. by a
pleasant path through the wood
from the Kago-iwa direct . The rail-
way from Imaichi may also be
availed of on the return to Nikko.
12. Ascent of Nyolio-zaii.
This is the best of all the moun-
tain climbs near Nikko. It is a
whole day's excursion, and an early
start should consequently be made.
There are two ways up, either via
Nana-taki — (" the Seven Cascades "),
or via the Rtjimi-toge. By the
former route, which commands the
most extensive views, an average
"walker will require oj hrs., includ-
ing stoppages, for the ascent, and
3 hrs. for the descent. There is no
water on the mountain, except at
a spring some 10 min. below the
log-hut on the S. side. Snow may
be found close to this hut as late
as the first days of July. The way
for pedestrians lies past the temple
of Puia-ara Jinja and a shrine
called the Gyoja-do. Here take a
narrow track to the 1. through the
wood, leading, after f hr. easy
walking with a short climb at the
end, to a large stone known as the
Sessho-seki, which bears an inscrip-
tion to notify that the slaughter of
game is prohibited on these hills.
(The best way for horses and kagos
leads a short distance over the Jakko
road to a zigzag path clearly visible
on the hill to the r., and joins the
path already mentioned at the
Sesso-seki.) Eight ahead rises a
peak called Akappori, conspicuous
by its precipitous face of red vol-
canic sti'ata. The path continues
up the grassy spur in front. In
IJ hr. from the Sessho-seki we
arrive at a ruined hut called Happu,
and 5 min. later come to the
edge of a precipice overlooking a
gigantic chasm, apparently the
remains of an ancient crater that
has been broken away by water on
the S.E. side, where the Inari-gawa
has its source. From Akanagi-san
an almost unbroken crater wall
extends westward to Akappori,
This secondary crater appears not
to have been very deep, as its pre-
sent floor, out of which descends
one of the seven cascades that
supply the Inari-gawa, is high
above the greater chasm immediate-
ly in front of us. A projecting
spur divides the upper from the
lower crater, and above it on the
1. rises a lesser peak named Shaku-
jo-ga-take. The falls are seen
from the edge of the precipice ;
and though they are insignificant,
the walk to this point is one of the
most dehghtful in the neighbour-
hood, affording entrancing views.
(The excursion as far as Nana-taki
Ascent of Nyoho-zan and Nantai-zan.
209
and back occupies from 5 to 6 hrs.)
The path hence mnds to the 1. not
far from the edge of the chasm, at
first very steeply, and then through
the wood to a large hut in If hr.
We are now at the foot of the final
cUmb, which will occupy not more
than I hr. more. The summit, on
which stands_ a small shrine
dedicated to Onamuji, is 8,100 ft.
high. To the N. it commands a
magnificent view over a sea of
lower mountains, among which lie
the secluded valleys of Kuriyama.
To the N. E., Nasu-yama is ren-
dered conspicuous by the smoke
rising fi-om its crater, while fur-
ther N. is seen Bandai-san. To
the E. is Takahara-yama, which also
has the appearance of a volcano. On
the immecUate W. of the sjiectator
is Akakura, merely a continuation
of Nyoh5-zan, then Ko-manago,
0-Manago, and Nantai-zan. Be-
tween AJiakura and Ko-Manago we
look across to Taro-zan. Senj5-ga-
hara is partly \isible, and beyond
it the bare volcanic summit of
Shirane. Further to the S. W. are
seen Asama-yama, Yatsu-ga-take,
and numerous other peaks probably
belonging to the Hida-Shinshu
range. The upper half of Fuji
rises S. over the long horizontal
line of the Chichibu mountains.
Away in the plain to the E. and S.
are perceived the broad and deep
Kinugawa, stretches of the Tone-
gawa, the vUl. of Nikko with
avenues marking the Nikkd Kaido
and Reiheishi Kaido, and far away
on the horizon, Tstikuba-san.
The way by the Fujimi-toge is
also beautiful, and offers the ad-
vantage that a much further dis-
tance may be ridden and less need
be walked, as horses go up as far
as the torii at the entrance to
the mountain precincts. Leaving
Nikko, the path turns r. beside the
first house on the r. below Urami.
For about 4 m. beyond Urami it is
rough, — a portion to be avoided
after dusk. Thence it leads for
several mUes through pleasant
sylvan scenery, until it enters a
forest of weird beauty IJ m. from
the foot of Nyoho-zan. The iorii is
reached in 3 hrs., whence the climb
by a winding path, mostly under
the shade of fine trees, occupies 2J
hrs. more.
13. Ascent of Nantai-zan via
Urami. This is the easiest and
pleasantest M^ay of making the as-
cent, though it is true that some
prefer the shorter but steep and
rugged path up from Chuzenji (see
p. 212). Just beyond the tea-
houses below Urami, the path de-
scends to the 1., crosses the stream,
and turns at once to the r., chmb-
ing up through a wood, on emer-
ging from which Nantai-zan, O-
Manago, Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi
are seen in front. After J hr.
walking, we cross the dry bed of a
river, whence up a grassy valley for
another J hr., and reach a sign-post
where a path to the r. diverges to
Nyoho-zan, while the 1. branch
ascends and gradually ^^inds to
the r. Plunging among trees, it
follows up a deep, thickly-wooded
gully, and at last comes to a torii
standing in the depression between
Nantai-zan and 0-Manago. Here
the path forks, the r. brandi passing
the spot from which 0-Manago
is ascended and continuing on
towards Yumoto, while the 1. climbs
up to the Shizu huts (5,550 ft.), where
the back ascent of Nantai-zan com-
mences. Horses may be taken
from Nikko to this spot, time 4
hrs. From Shizu to the summit is
2,600 ft. further, occupying 2^ hrs.
on foot. The way back by the same
route is an easy 5 hrs. walk. Those
intending to return to Nikko, in-
stead of descenchng to Chuzenji,
must make a very early start, as the
path below Shizu is much broken
up, and unsafe after dark.
[Instead of ascending Nantai-
zan, one may walk round its
base to Chuzenji in about 3J
hrs. The route for some dis-
tance follows the path leading
210
Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.
from Shizii to Yumoto, and
about 1 ri after crossing the
bed of a stream, diverges to
the 1., shortly afterwards issu-
ing on the open plain of Senjo-
ga-hara.}
5. — Chuzenji and Neighboxjehood.
Kegon-no-taki. Nantai-zan.
ASHIO.
One of the principal points of
interest near Nikko is beautiful
Lake Cliuzenji (*Lake Side Hotel ;
Kome-ya).
Lake Chuzenji lies at the foot of
Nantai-zan, being surrounded on the
other sides by comparatively low hills
covered with trees to their very summit.
Its greatest length from E. to W. is es-
timated at 3 ri, its breadth at 1 ri. Sound-
ings show the extraordinary depth of 93
fathoms, shallowing down towards Sen.iu
and more rapidly towards Kegon. The
lake, formerly devoid of life, now abounds
with excellent salmon, salmon-trout,
iivana, and other fish, with which it was
stocked between the years 1873 and 1890
by the Japanese (Tovernment. The sal-
mon and salmon-trout can only be taken
with rod and line, whilst the iirana, a
species of white trout which never come
to the fisherman's bait, are taken in the
nets. The height of Lake Chiizenji above
the sea is i,375 ft. Several small temples,
which are visited by the pilgiims, add to
the picturesqueness of its shores.
The road is practicable for jin-
riMshas with two men, not only to
the Till, of Chuzenji, 3 ri 12 cho
from Nikko, but for 2 ri 27 cho
fiirther on to the hot springs of Yu-
moto. But owing to the steepness
of the hill which has to be passed
on the way, ladies and persons un-
able to walk often take " chairs " or
horses. Persons pressed for time
may easily go to Chiizenji and back
in one day ; it is even possible for a
sturdy pedestrian, by making an ear-
ly start, to do the whole distance to
Yiunoto and back within the hmits
of a day. Charming at all times, the
way from Nikko to Chuzenji is
seen at its best late in May or early
in June, when the azalea trees,
some of which are from 10 ft. to 25
ft. high, display their red, white,
and piu-ple blossoms, and the wis-
tarias too are coming into bloom.
Another glorious time is mid-
October, on account of the tints of
the maple leaves.
Leaving Nikko, we follow the
Ashio road along the course of the
Daiya-gawa as far as Futamiya (IJ
ri), where the road to Chuzenji
branches off r., still continuing by
the river-side. This river, which
issues fi'om Lake Chuzenji, is for
most of the year a small and quiet
stream ; but at times it becomes a
dangerous toii'ent, carrying away
roads and embankments. The
ascent is gradual and easy up to the
hamlet of Uma-gaeshi, where there is
a fair inn. Just before reaching
this hamlet, the old path from
Nikko joins the new road. The
road hence for some distance is cut
out of the side of the overhanging
clifE close by the brawhng stream,
and o^ing to landsUps is difficult
to keep in repair. Formerly the
path climbed along the face of
the cliff, and was impassable even
for horses, whence the name of
Uma-gaeshi (see p. 171). The
scenery between Uma-gaeshi and
the Misawa tea-house at the foot of
the actiaal ascent, 20 min. walk, is
wild and j)icturesque. Leaving the
rugged gorge, a udnding path leads
up to a naiTow ridge, where a rest-
ing-hut commands a pretty view
of two cascades called Hannya and
Hodo, at the head of the ravine to
the r. From this point the ascent
to the top, which occuj)ies f hr., is
arduous. Pedestrians may advan-
tageously take the short cuts which
the old road offers. At the charm-
ingly situated tea-house called JVa-
ka no Chaya half-way up, the cooUes
usually make a short halt. A local
cm:iosity is the gishaku-isld, or
"lode-stone." On the siunmit, the
road passes through a wood of oak,
birch, and other trees, many of
which are covered with the long
trailing moss called sarugase
(Lycopodium sieboldi). A path to
the 1. leads to a platform command-
ing a fine view of the cascade of
Walks near Ghuzenji.
211
Keg:on-no-taki. The height of
this fall is aboxit 250 ft. In the
earlier part of the year it occa-
sionally runs almost dry ; but after
the heavy summer rains, it shoots
out over the edge of the over-
hanging precipice in considerable
volume, A good view is obtained
by descending the side of the preci-
pice to a look-out which has been
erected just opposite the fall. It is
possible to get to the foot, for which,
however, a guide from the tea-house
is necessary. The road onwards
soon reaches the shore of the lake,
and enters the vill. of
Ch.\izenji,
This name, written f}i^^, which smacks
of Buddhism, has been officially altered
to Chu^ushi, iji'^jiol , which is Shinto ; but
the old name is still currently used.
which is thronged with pilgrims
for a few days in July or August,
the period for the ascent of Nantai-
zan as a religious exercise varying
from year to year according to the
old lunar calendar. As many as
ten thousand sleep at the vill.
during those few days. At other
times it is a quiet place, for which
reason, and on account of its de-
hghtful surroundings, several of
the European diplomats have here
built their villas.
The prettiest walks involving
little cUmbing are : — ■
1. Along the S. E. shore of the
lake to Ase-ga-hama. (The summit
of the Asegaia-toge, 15 min. climb
through the wood, affords an
interesting view, see No. 5). The
islet close by is Kdzuke-shima, ■with
a pretty shrine. Keturn by boat.
2. To Hhbhu-no-hama, a little
more than half-way along the N.
shore of the lake, 45 min. Return
by boat.
3. To a pretty temple at Senjv,
at the W. end of the lake, close to an
icy brook, — 2| hrs. (Within J hr.
walk fi'om Senju hes Nishi-no-uml,
a tarn nestling beneath the wooded
hills, which at this end recede fi'om
Lake Chuzenji.)
The f oUovidng are expeditions for
cHmbers : —
4. Up the hill opposite Kegon,
leading to Kobu-ga-hara. On reach-
ing the top, 1^ hr., a short walk on
the level brings one to some hiige
gi'anite boulders called Kago-ishi,
which command a magniiicent view.
This would make an alternative
way of returning to Nikkd, by con-
tinuing on to the summit of the
Hoso-o Pass, ^- hr., where the road
from Ashio to Nikko, is joined, 8 m.
more.
5. To the Copper - mines of
Ashio (described in KoTite 19),
which lie within the compass of a
day's excursion from Chuzenji,
but must be done on foot, the
path being impracticable for con-
veyances of any kind. A boat is
taken across the lake to Ase-ga-
hama, J hr., whence a chmb of 8
cho leads through a wood to the
crest of the Asegata-toge, com-
manding a beautiful prospect.
Tier upon tier lise the forest-clad
ridges that close in the valley of
the Watarase. The way down the
pass, for about 1^ ri, lies through
narrow valleys between steep and
scantily wooded hills. A narrow
path, in portions cut out of the
cliff side, in others supported by
planks, has to be traversed before
entering the valley in which the
mines are situated. From here it is
20 min. fiirther to Akakura, the
upper half of the village opposite
which, on the r. bank of the stream,
stand the various buildings con-
nected with the mines.
Those desirous of staying at
Ashio (see p. 216) for the night
can do the rest of the distance —
about 2 m. — in jinrildsha.
6. Ascent of Nantai-zan. This
mountain is considered sacred, and
the priests of the temple at its
base insist on the immemorial rule
whereby women are prohibited
from maldng the ascent. Ladies
can, however, generally go up,
provided they do not pass through
the main gate. The temple, which
212
Route 17. — Nikko and GhuzenjL
stands at the far end of the village,
is said to have been founded by
Shodo Shonin in A.D. 816. The
space between the bronze iorii and
the shrine is holy ground, and
persons in jinrikishas or kagos had
better go along the lower road if
they object to being required to
alight. The gate leading to the
mountain is closed except during
the pilgrim season, when entrance
tickets can be purchased for a smaU
fee. The ascent, occupying about
3 hrs., is extremely steep, and
consists partly of log steps which
are very fatiguing; biit the lovely
view from the summit (8,150 ft.)
well repays the exertion. The best
time to see it is at sunrise ; so a
very early start should be made
with lanterns. On the S. E. Ues
the plain stretching towards Tokyo;
on the W. rises the lofty cone of
Shirane-san ; further S. is K5shin-
zan; below we have the marshy basin
of Senj5-ga-hara, with the stream
meandering through it, Lake Chu-
zenji, a glimpse of Lake Yumoto,
and N. of_Shirane the peaks of
Taro-zan, 0-Manago, Ko-Manago,
and Nyoho-zan. Fuji too is visible
in clear weather. The ascent can
also be made from Yumoto in 4^
hrs. (see next page).
6. l''UMOTO AND NeIGHBOUKHOOD.
Ascent of Shikane-san, and
OF 0-MANAGO AND NaNTAI-
ZAN FROM l''UMOTO.
The road to Yumoto leads past
Shobu-no-hania, to which point
boats may be taken ; then it turns
away fi'om the lake and soon crosses
the Jigoku-no-kawa, a slender
stream which hunies over smooth
rocks. The Byilzu-ga-iaki, or Dra-
gon's Head Cascade, the most
curious of all the cascades in this
neighboru'hood, lies 10 min. from
the lake. Beyond it we emerge on
Senjo-ga-hara, or the Moor of the
Battle-field.
So named on account of an engagement
that took place here in A. D. 1389 between
the partisans o£ the Ashikaga Shoguna
and those of the Southern dynasty of
Mikadoa (see p. 72). An alternative name
is Akanuina-ga-lia I a, or Moor of the Red
Swami), derived from the colour of the
tall dying sedges in autumn.
This wide solitude is bounded on
all sides by forests, above which
rise the peaks of Nantai-zan, O-
Manago, Ko-Manago, and Taro-
zan. (This last, wliich makes an
easy day's excursion from either
Chuzenji or Y'umoto, has an extinct
crater at its summit.) Far away on
the 1. is a wooded elevation, in the
centre of which the cascade of Yu-
no-faki ajipears like a silver thread.
Above this rises the volcano of
Shirane-san, the only bare peak in
the vicinity. The road crosses the
plain to a point not far from Y'u-no-
taki, which giishes over a smooth
black rock at an angle of GO'*, form-
ing a stream that feeds Kyuzu-
ga-taki, and finally falls into Lake
Chuzenji. Its perpendicular height
is 220 ft. A steep path by its side
leads up to the toj), some 60 yds.
from the shore of Lake Yumoto,
which is so called from the hot
springs at its further end. This
lake, though smaller than Lake
Chuzenji, is still more beaiitiful.
The maples and other trees here,
in October, display the most
glorious tints that can be imagined.
The irises also are a wonderful
sight in July. The road -winds
through the wood along the E. side
of the lake to the small \ill. of
Yumoto [Lilt, Namma-ya, semi-
Europ., and numerous Jap. inns),
5,000 ft. above the sea. Here the
water is partially discolom-ed by the
sulphur springs. There ai-e al-
together ten springs, some under
cover, others exposed to the open
ail-, all accessible to the pubhc and
frequented by both sexes promis-
cuously.
Shirane-san is a volcano 8,800
ft. high, which was active as recently
as 188!). The chmb is very rough
ixnd steep, and should not be at-
tempted ^\-ithout a guide. For the
Route 18. — From C'huzeuji to Ikao over the Konsei-toge. 213
ascent allow 4^ hrs., for the
descent, 3 hrs. ; but considerable
time is needed for a stirvey of the
top, so that a whole day is none
too much for the expedition.
There is no water on the mountain
side. The first part of the climb
is the roughest of all, leading over
Mae-Shirane (" fi-ont Shirane "), a
ridge which looks as if it had been
part of the wall of a crater, and that
within comparatively recent times
a new and higher cone had been
formed inside its W. limb, which
had nearly filled up the original
crater, leaving only the interven-
ing valley on its E. side, the bottom
of which slopes off from the centre
N. and S. The N. end contains a
tarn of a remarkable green colour.
Descending from Mae-Shirane, we
cross the old crater floor, and then
ascend Shirane proi^er (Oku-Shira-
ne). The cone has a great rent
down the side, which is kept on
the r. in going up, and a deep
crater at the tojj whose edges are
very rotten. From the top, which
is honeycombed with other small
craters, the view is superb.
The way leading to O-Manago
takes one first along the Chtizenji
road as far as some houses on the
edge of Senj6-ga-hara. It then skirts
the N. side of the moor, passing
through a thick wood and bearing
towards the depression between
Nantai and 0-Manago, "2^ hrs. to a
point where the path forks near a
shrine containing a stone image of
Sh5zuka-no-Baba, with a strange
medley of ex-votos hanging outside.
The 1. branch leads to 0-Manago,
the r. branch to the Shizu huts and
on to Nikko. From the junction
of the paths, it takes i lii'- to reach
the torii at the base of O-Manago.
The distance to the summit is 1 ri
8 cho, the real ascent beginning at
a bronze image of Fudo. The last
bit is over precipitotis rocks, where
chains are fixed to assist the climb-
er. On the top stands a wooden
shrine, with a bronze image behind
it, said to be Kunitoko-tachi, the
Earth-god. The view is less ex-
tensive than that from Nantai-zan.
In order to ascend
Nantai-zan from this, the
Yumoto side, it is not necessary
to go on to the Shizu huts, which
lie 3- hr. iTom the shrine of Shozuka-
no-Baba mentioned above. Ano-
ther path leads up behind a hut
called Ozaioa-no shuku, 3 cho nearer
Yumoto ; and in this way Nantai-
zan can be ascended ^\ith greater
ease than from Chuzenji. The
whole climb, part of which is stiff,
will take a fair walker 4J hrs. from
Yumoto.
Japanese pUgiims of the old
school make the round of the va-
rious mountains in the vicinity of
Nikko and Chuzenji by ascending
first Nyoho-zan and then Ko-
Manago, descending to a place
called Sabusawa, and ascending O-
Manago from the back. They sleep
at the Shizu hut, climb Taro-zan
in the forenoon, Nantai-zan in the
afternoon, and descend to Chu-
zenji.
ROUTE 18.
Fbom Chuzenji to Lkao over the
Konsei-toge.
Itinerary.
CHUZENJI to :— Ri Cho M.
Yumoto 2 27 6|
Top of Konsei
Pass 1 18 3|
Higashi Ogawa... 4 18 11
Sukagawa 1 18 3f
Okkai 2 — 5
Ohara 18 3
Takahira 1 23 4
NUMATA 2 13 5}
Tanashita 2 15 6
Shibukawa 2 34 7J
IKAO 2 15 6
Total 25 9 61J
214 Route 18. — From Ghuzenji to Ikao over the Konsei-toge.
On this route an idea is gained
of the dense forest that covers
so large a poition of the cen-
tral mountain range ; and the val-
leys of the Katashina-gawa and
Tonegawa, down which most of the
latter part of the way leads, are
highly picturesque The first night
is spent at Higashi Ogawa, and the
second at Numata, Ikao being
reached on the afternoon of the
third day. The means of transport
for baggage on this route are : —
coolies over the Konsei-toge to
Higashi Ogawa, horses not being
taken across the pass ; horses to
Numata, and thence jinrikishas.
Travellers wishing to return to
Tokyo "n-ithout visiting Ikao, can
join the railway at Maebashi or at
TakasakL by tram from Shibu-
kawa (see p. 186).
The way up the Konsei-t5ge is a
continuous gentle ascent throiigh a
forest with an undergrowth of
bamboo grass, terminating in a
steep climb. From the top of the
pass, on looking round, are seen
the thickly wooded slopes converg-
ing towards the dark waters of
Lalce Yumoto, behind which looms
up in bold relief the massive form
of Nantai-zan, flanked on the 1. by
0-Manago. To the r. a ghmpse is
caught of a portion of Lake Ghu-
zenji, while Tsukuba-san rises
in the distant plain beyond. On
the Kdtsuke side the thick foliage
intercepts all view, and there is an
equal absence of distant prospect
during the whole of the long down-
ward walk, neither is there any
sign of human habitation in the
forest, except a solitary hunter's
hut. Even this is deserted dming
the summer, at which season alone
the tourist will think of coming
this way, since the road is
practically impassable from the
end of November to well on in
March. The foliage is very fine,
and in the higher part of the forest
a peculiar efEect is produced by a
drapery of moss, hanging in gray
filaments fi"om the branches of the
tall conifers. On nearing Ogawa
no Yumoto, — a few huts with
thermal springs about 1 ri from
the viU. of Higashi Ogawa, — the
path follows a stream flowing down
from Shii'ane-san.
Higashi Ogawa (Inn by Kurata
Einzaburo) stands 2,300 ft. above
the sea. The Ogawa, from which
this vill. takes its name, is a small
tributai-y of the Katashina-gawa,
itself an affluent of the Tonegawa.
Leaving Higashi Ogawa, and con-
tinuing down the valley of the
Ogawa, which is dotted with many
hamlets, we cross over a hill before
reaching
Sukagawa, in the valley of the
Katashina-gawa. From a ridge at
the foot of which lie two hamlets
with curious names, — Uikage Cki-
dori, or Shady Chidori. and Hinata
Chidori, or Sunny Chidori,— there
is a fine \'iew, on looking back, of
this valley stretching far away to
the N. The two hamlets are
situated on opposite sides of the
stream, and connected by a bridge.
Observe the terrace-Uke formation
of the hills at the back of Hilaige
Chidori, and ixll the way on to
below Numata. Three ten^aces at
least 2 m. long are distinctly
marked, each of the lower two being
a few hundred yards ^ride, and the
upper one, surmounted by the
usual irregular ridge, being from
J to I m. wide. The course of these
ridges, which seem to mark the
successive positions of a river bank
at different periods, is S.W. by N.E.
Wenest reach
dKkai (Inn by Hoshino), near
which the river dashes between
perpendicular walls of porphyry.
A hillock behind the inn affords a
delightful view of high rocks, with
trees perched among them and
cascades. There is also a pretty
islet in the river, called Uklshima.
The path now leaves the valley of
the Katashina-gawa, and crossing
a well-cultivated upland, comes to
Ohara (Inn, Kishi-ya), whence it
winds over the hills and up the
Route 19. — Valley of the Watara.-^i'. Ashio.
215
Kazusaka-ioge. The view from this
point is superb, including Haruna-
san, the Koshu Koma-ga-take,
Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, Yaha-
zu-yama, and the Shirane of Kusa-
tsu. At
Takahira, the road becomes
level and practicable for jinrikishas.
Numata (Inn, Odake-ya) stands
on a high plateau overlooking the
valleys of the Katashina and the
Tonegawa. The view of the latter
valley from the N. W. corner of the
town is remarkable, — extensive rice-
fields far below at one's feet, be-
yond them the river, and beyond it
again the moiintains of the Mikuni-
toge. A spare day might be oc-
cupied with a visit to the local
Haruna-san, a sacred hill lying to
the N.
Trout-fishing is briskly carried
on just below the junction of the
two rivers, a portion of the water
being enclosed with stones and
fences running out from each bank
towards the centre of the stream,
where a bamboo i^latform, inclined
at an angle of aboiit 15", is fixed
upon baskets filled with stones.
The water rushes up this platform,
and leaves the fish at the top.
They are then caught, and kept
ahve in perforated boxes which are
placed on the platform. The
scenery onward continues very
picturesque, the road passing high
and rugged chffs that overhang
the Tonegawa. Beyond Tanashita,
the valley expands into a smiling
fertile plain, and the river is lost
sight of till near
Shibukawa (Inn, Maru-man).
This is a town of some size.
Hence to Ikao is, for the most
part, a gentle ascent over grassy
mountain slopes. For a detailed
account of Ik;io and Neighbour-
hood, see Koute 14.
ROUTE 19.
Fkom Nikeo to Ikao by the Valley
or THE Wataease-gawa. The
COPPEE-MINES OF AsHlO.
Ascent of Koshin-zan.
Itinerary.
NIKKO to :— Ei Cho M.
Top of Hoso-o Toge 3 10 8
ASHIO 4 11 lOJ
S5ri 2 21 6|
Godo 2 12 5|
Hanawa 1 — 2|
OMAMA 3 17 ^
Total 16 35 41^
From Omama by train in f hr.
to Maebashi, whence see Route 14.
It is too much to try, even by
an early start, to combine a visit to
the mines and reach Ashio within
the limits of one day from Nikkd.
The works he in a side valley 30
cho, or 2 m. from the vUl. of Ashio,
where one must stay, and which
should not be confounded with
the vill. that has grown up around
the mines. Travellers not follow-
ing this route, but making the
round to Chtizenji, take the mines
on their second day (see p. 211).
Apphcation for permission to in-
spect the works should be made at
the head office in Tokyo.
The road from Nikko to Ashio
over the Hoso-o Pass, whose siun-
mit rises 4,100 ft. above sea-level, is
very rough, but generally i^racti-
cable for jinrikishas. Pedestrians
may avail themselves of numerous
short cuts on the way up. The va-
rious rope- ways — besides the main
one connecting Nikko with Ashio —
seen on the far side of the pass,
bring down charcoal for the use of
the mines. At the vill. of Miko-
uchi, pedestrians shoiild follow the
tramway which here diverges 1.,
while the main road goes straight
on ; the former is generally in
better repair. The Watarase-gawa
is reached before entering
216
Route 19. — Ash 10.
Ash.io (Inns, Tsiini-ya, Izunii-
ya). This place, famed for its cop-
per mines, which are the most pro-
ductive in Japan, and said to be the
largest in the Far East, lies in a
deep valley at an altitude of aboTit
2,300 ft. The Mines, of which
there are two in the neighbourhood,
bear respectively the names of
Ashio and Kotaki, the former and
more important being situated on
the eastern side of the moun-
tain, the latter on the western.
Jinrildshas are available as far as
the Ashio mines (Dnzan), to visit
which one's steps must be retraced
to the end of the town, where one
leaves the green valley of the
"Watarase-gawa for a smoke-laden,
foiU-smelling region, with the hills
deniided of eveiy particle of wood.
Gigantic iron pipes lead down fi-om
neighbouring heights to work the
turbines, tramways run in all
directions, the bare red hillsides
are scooped out here and there for
the miserable huts of the miners.
the air resounds v.-ith the clang of
hammers, while the huge furnaces
vomit forth clouds of poisonous
vapour which, on a hot still day,
hang like a pall over the valley.
The electricity for the motors is
generated by water-power at a
station which is passed 1 m. before
entering Ashio. Mato, the lower
half, and Akakura, the upper, com-
bine to form one large \all. on the
1. bank of a stream running in a
deep ravine. On the opposite side
stands the forest of chimneys of
the smelting-works, together with
engine-rooms, workshops, and other
buildings.
The ore is found in a matrix of clay,
calcite, and quartz, and is almost entirely
the pyrite or copper sulphide, although a
small quantity of oxide also occurs. The
lodes vary from 6 to 20 ft. in width. The
average yield is 19 per cent of metal, and
the total annual product of linished
metal from the two mines reaihes the
remarkable figure of G.OOO tons. The
adits from the Ashio side are being pushed
forward to meet those working in the
opposite direction from Kotaki, approxi-
mately 1 n distant. A rope-way some
3 m. in length has been constructed
over the Hoso-o Pass for convenience of
transport It consists of a continuous
steel-rope, 6 m. long, carried on posts,
and revolving on two drums, one at each
end. Immense hooks are fastened to the
rope by thin copper bands at a distance
of about 80 or 100 yds. apart, the ascend-
ing line carrying bags of coke or coal,
the descending, bars of smelted ore
weighifig .58 lbs. each. At some points
the wire is several hundreds of feet above
the ground. The tramway on the Nikko
side is 5k m. in length, and there are
about '20 m. altogether on the Ashio side.
The undertaking is in Japanese hands,
but the most modem European processes
are in operation. Owing to damage done
to the crops by the poisonous discharges
from the mine, and to consequent agita-
tion amongst the farmers living along the
course of the Watarase-gawa into which
the stream flows, an ingenious series of
filters has been fitted up for the purifica-
tion of the water after it has done its
work. Even these, however, cannot restore
to the water the purity necessary for
rice cultivation The agitation is there-
fore naturally jenewed from year to year,
and threatens serious complications.
[An extra day at Ashio may well
be devoted to visiting the
wondei'ful rocks of Kosliin-
zan. (The Kotaki mines lie
on the way to Koshin-zan : but
it is diflticult to do the rocks
and the mines in one diiy.)
JinriMshas may be taken as
far as the mines, about 3 m.,
whence to the point called
Bessho, 4,500 ft., where the
rock scenery begins, the dis-
tance is estimated at 6 m. In
order to -^-isit the rocks, it
is necessary to engage the
services of a guide who hves
at the hiTt. The whole roimd
■«-ill take about 2^ hrs., and is
perfectly safe for all except
those who are apt to be trou-
bled with dizziness.
Leaving the hut by the path
on the S. side, we commence
the round of the rocks, scram-
bUng u^i and down the steejiest
places imaginable, traversing
ileep ra^^nes on rough log
bridges, and crawUng round the
face of precipices by the iiid of
iron chains and of steps cut
in the solid rock. For such
Koshin-zan. The Watarase-gawa.
217
hard work, waraji are of great
convenience. A point called
Mi-harashi commands a mag-
nificent prospect of the dense
forest-covered mountains be-
low, and Tsukuba-san in the
distant plain. Behind, the eye
rests upon the gigantic rock-
work, amidst which conifers
have perched themselves in
inaccessible nooks and cran-
nies. To the varioiis features
of the landscape, more or less
fanciful names have been
given. The most striking are
the ISan-ju-san-gen, a mass of
precipices dedicated to Kwan-
non ; the Spring dedicated to
Yakiishi, the waters of which
are believed to be efficacious
in cases of eye disease ; the
Kinoko-seki, or Mushroom
Rock, beyond which comes the
Yagura-seki, supposed to re-
semble the towers on the walls
of a fortress ; next the Urand-
ga-taki, or Back View Cascade,
which falls from a ledge above
in silvery threads. The huge
precipice close by is called the
Go-shiki no seki, or Kock of
the Five Colours. The guide
points out a rock, the Men-seki,
m which a remote likeness to
a human face may be traced.
Above this is the Go-ju no To,
or Five-storied Pagixla, and
near it, a small natural arch
called Ic.hi no mon. Crawl-
ing through this, M'e couie to
the Bonji-seki, or Sanski'it
Character Rocks, next passing
the Baiko-dani, a deep gully
siipposed to have some occidt
relation with the origin of
thunder-storms ; the Tdro-iira,
or Stone-lantern Rock ; the
Fitji-mi-seki, whence the upper
half of Fuji is seen ; the Shishi-
seki, or Lion Rock ; the Ogi-
itoaya, or Fan Cavern ; and
the Z^seki, or Elephant Rock.
Next we come to where a huge
natural bridge, called the Ama
no hashi. or Hridge of Heaven.
used to span the ravine until
destroyed by an earthquake in
1824. On the other side is a
hole about 6 ft. in diaiueter,
called Ni no mon, or Second
Gate, where the bridge termi-
nated. From this point, ascend-
ing a very narrow crevice by
the aid of chains, the path
reaches the Mi-harashi already
mentioned. Then passing be-
hind a precipitous detached
rock, called Byobu-iica from its
resemblance to a screen, we
ascend a gorge, and finally
reach the Oku-no-in (5,4.50 ft.),
Avhere in three caverns are small
shrines dedicated to the three
Shinto deities Onamuji, Saruta-
hiko, and Sukuna-biliona. It
was the second of these whose
worship was originally esta-
blished on this mountain under
the title of Koshin. On turn-
ing the corner just beyond, we
see the tops of Nantai-zan and
O-Manago liearing about N.,
and descending the hillside,
reach Bessho again in 25 min.
fi'om the Oku-no-in. The des-
cent to the hiats at the base of
the mountain will take nearly
2^- hrs.]
The scenery the whole way along
the banks of the Watarase-gawa
is dehghtful, and especially between
Ashio and (Jodo cpiite romantic.
Sometimes the road, carried out on
piles, actually overhangs the liver,
which now flows on in a perfectly
l^lacid course, while in other places
it foams and dashes amidst tremen-
dous boulders. Beyond
Sori (Inn, Komats>;-ya), a glade
of fine cryptomerias attests the
priestly care formerly bestowed on
the temple of Tenno. The road
then winds up and down the thick-
ly wooded side of the valley, high
above the iiishing waters of the
river to
Godo [Inn, Tama-ya) and
Sanawa ( Inn, AVakamatsu-ya).
After the latter place it becomes
less picturescpie. leading for most
218
Route 20. — Shiobara and Nasu.
of the way across a cultivated
plateau. The vill. seen on the r.
bank of the river beyond Hanawa
is Miziinitma (Tnn, Midori-ya), from
which it is possible to ascend Aka-
gi-san by a shorter, though rougher,
route than that given on p. 189.
Large quantities of trout are taken
both with the fly and the net in the
Watarase-gawa, which is rejoined
jusj above
Omama (Inn, Tsuni-ya), see
p. 196.
ROUTE 20.
Shiobaea and Nasu.
fcexjmachi. ascent of keicho-zan.
NASU-YAMA.
(Conf. map facing p. 197.)
Nishi Nasuno (Inn, Yamato-
ya) is reached by the Northern
Railway from Tokyo in 4J hrs. (see
Koute 65). This place is an out-
come of railway enterprise ; so too
is the reclamation of a large extent
of the moorland which here
stretches on all sides, the soil hav-
ing been found well-adapted to the
cultivation of fruit. Nishi Nasuno is
the nearest station to the various
favourite hot spring resorts of the
district of Shiobara, which are
much fi-equented by all classes of
Japanese. The itinerary of the
jiniikisha road from the station is
as follows :
NISHI NASUNO to :—
Ei Cho M.
Seldya 3 — 7J
Owami 1 18 3|
Fukuwata 24 1^
Shiogama 13 1
FURUMACHI... 8 J
Total 5 27 14
As far as Sekiya, at the foot of
the mountains, the road is level
and runs in a straight line across
the plain, which is covered with
dwarf chestnut-trees, — a part of
the journey apt to be trying
in summer, owing to the total
absence of shade. Shortly after
Sekiya, we enter the highly
picturesque valley of the Hokigawa,
with lofty and densely wooded
hills on either side. At various
points glorious views are afforded
of the river rushing over its boulder-
strewn bed, while numerous cas-
cades lend variety to the landscape.
The Owami springs, with a hut or
two, are seen from the roadway, at
the bottom of an almost precipitous
descent. They he in the bed of
the river, and are used only by the
lioorest class of patients.
Fukuwata (Inns, *Shofuro and
others) is, next to Furumachi, the
most poptdar bathing resort in the
district. A few min. from Fuku-
wata, on the oppo?;ite side of the
river, is a spot known as Fudo-ga-
saica. With its crystal-clear water,
its rocks and cascades, and a walk
under the shade of variegated
trees, it produces the impression of
landscape gardening on a large
scale. At the entrance to the hamlet
of Shiogama, a stone has been erect-
ed to the memory of the famous
courtesan, Takao, who was born
near this spot.
She was mistress of Date Tsunamune,
second Daimyo of Sendai (eonf. p. 126),
who lived in the latter half of the 17th
century. The family broils and crimes,
of which this intrigue formed one link,
are dramatised in a popular play called
Sendai Hagi.
Here a bridge crosses the river,
leatling to the hot springs of Shio-
no-yu, 16 cho, situated in the bed of
an affluent of the Holdgawa, a place
chiefly resorted to by poor folks.
Furumachi (Inns, Ftisen-ro,
Kome-ya) lies on the r. bank of the
river, and is the principal viU. in
the district. It is shut in by
mountains which rise in beautiful-
Furumachh Arayu. Aacent of Keicho-zan.
219
ly wooded peaks, one above another,
around it. Althongh situated at
no great height (1,850 ft.), Furu-
machi is cooler than many places
at higher altitudes, and suffers less
from mosquitoes and other insect
pests. 'I'he whole vicinity is dotted
with thermal springs. The water
at Furumachi is moderate in tem-
perature and mostly fx-ee from
mineral deposit ; the other springs
are somewhat sahne. A favoiirite
midday resort for visitors at Furu-
machi is Sumaki or Taki-no-yu (9
cho), in a hollow of the hills. Here
the M'ater is led in pipes from a
spring just above the inn, and a hot
douche may be taken. The temple
of Myo-onji, a plain thatched struc-
ture in the vill., is of little interest.
The only relic in the possession of
the priests — and it is an odd relic
in a place of worsliip — is an article
of the wardrobe of the frail beauty
above mentioned. Amongst the
prettiest cascades in the neighbour-
hood are :_ Senshin-no-tald, Hoko-
no-taki, Ohata-no-taki, and HeM-
reM-no-tald.
A pleasant excursion may be
made to Arayu, lit. " the Violent
Spring," 2 ri fi'om Furvimachi.
The path leads directly behind the
Kome-ya inn at the head of the
vill., and over the hills in sharp
zigzags. Distant views are obtained
on the way, — an exception to the
generally shut-in character of all
this neighbourhood.
[Near the top of the pass, on the
]., is a tarn called Onuma. A
smaller, called Konnma, situat-
ed in a deeper hollow, is not
visible from the road. A path
follows the upper edge of these
tarns down to the Shio-no-yu
springs, and also miikes a
good walk from Furumachi.]
Arayu, a cluster of meiiioere
inns, hes on the side of a hill ren-
dered barren by the sulphurous
water that biibbles forth in several
spots, giving the phice a desolate
aspect. It lies on a mountain road
to Nikko frequently taken by
pedestrians. The distances are ap-
proximately as follows : —
Arayu to : — Bi Cho J/.
Fujiwara 5 — 12|-
Okuwa 3 — 7J-
Imaichi 1 15 3^
Total 9 15 23
Thence train to Nikko in J^ hr.
The inns on the way are poor.
Arayu is the best starting-point
for the ascent of Keicho-zan, 3 J
ri, one of the peaks of Takahnra-
yama (5,880 ft.), a sacred mountain,
and one of the highest of the
range separating the provinces
of Shimotsulte and Iwashiro. The
climb up it is somewhat rough and
monotonous for about 1 hr., all
view being shut out by woods and
low ridges on both sides until the
bed of the Akagawa is reached,
where the ascent of the Tafcihara-
toge begins. From the top of the
jia?s to the small lake of Benfen-rja-
ike is a liistance of 1 ri, and to
the summit a steep pull of 20 cho
more. The view from the summit
is very extensive, embracing Fuji,
Nantai-zan, Gwassan, Ede-san,
Bandai-san, and numerous minor
peaks. The shrine on Keicho-zan
is dechcated to Saruta-hilto. Those
wishing to make the ascent from
Furumachi in one day must start
early. An alternative is to take it
on the way to Nikko.
The active volcano of Nasu-yama
(0,300 ft.) is best reached fi-om
Kuroiso {Inn, Tabako-ya) on the
Northern Railway, whence jin-
rikisha ■«'ith two men — or pack-
horse — for 4 ri 20 cho (11 m.) to
Nasu (Inn, *Komatsii-ya), at the
mountain's base, 2,750 ft. above
sea-level. A good deal of sulphur
is produced in the neighbourhood.
The baths of Nasu are very ancient,
havini; been established in the reign of
Jomei Tenno (A. D 029.641). and have a
220 Roate 21. — The Provinces of Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu.
high local reputation for efficacy in skin
diseases. The inns formerly stood a little
higher up the river, at a spot called Yu-
moto on the old maps, but were removed
to their present site a few years ago. The
Komatsu-ya has been in the same family
for six centuries .
Other noted bathing resorts on
NasiT-yama, which is literally
honeycombed with solfataras, are
AsaM Onsen (3,700 ft.), Benten (4,200
ft.), Omaru, a httle further np, and
Sando-goya on the other side of the
pass leading to the district of Aizii.
Seven cho from Nasu, in a bleak
spot near the river-bed, once stood
the Sessho-sekl, or " Death-stone, "
famous in a legend which has been
dramatised as one of the No, or
Lyric Dramas, of medisrval Japa-
nese hterature.
The story is that a Buddhist priest. Gen-
no by name, while journeying across
the desolate moor of Nasu, pauses to rest
beneath this rock. A spirit forthwith
appears and warns him that, by remain-
ing iu this place, he is risking his life, for
that not men only, but even birds and
beasts perish if they do but touch it. The
spirit and the chorus then recount to him
in verse how once upon a time there lived
a maiden, as learned and accomplished
as she was surpassingly beautiful, whom
the Emperor Toba no-In tuok to himself
as his favourite concubine, and for her
sake neglected all the affairs of state. At
last one evening?, on the occasion of a
banquet at the Palace, the light.s suddenly
went out, and from the girl's body there
darted forth a supernatural coruscation
that illumined the whole scene, while
the Mikado himself was struck down by
disease. On the representations of the
court magician, Abe-no-Yasunari, the vile
witch — for the pretended beauty was
evidently nothing better than a witch —
was driven from the Imperial presence,
and flew away through the air to the
moor of Nasu, where she resumed her
original shape, that of a fox. In the
second act of the play, the spirit, appear-
ing again, confesses to the good priest
that itself is none other than the wraith
of the witch whose story has just been
told, and relates furthermore how, after
escaping from the Palace, she was hunted
by dogs over the moor of Nasu, — the
origin, as the chorus obligingly stops to
explain, of the .Japanese sport of inu ou
mono, or " dog-hunting." The priest then
exorcises the evil spirit by means of
Buddhistic incantations.
The stone itself no longer exists ;
but the poisonous exhalations
which still issue from the ground
on which it stood are destructive,
not only to insect life, but, as is
asserted by the peasants, to ani-
mals as well.
The ascent of Nasu-yama Tvill
occupy a little nnder 3 hrs. from
Nasu, the last ^ hr. leading over a
wild chaos of boulders, from
amongst hundreds of which sul-
phnrous vapour constantly rises.
The view from the summit includes
all the higher peaks of this central
range, the Mkko mountains, Asa-
ma, and Fuji. A huge cloud of
steam and vapour, accompanied
by incessant roaring, marks the
present active crater formed by a
destructive outbreak in 1881. It is
situated on the W. side of the
mountain, a little above the jmss
which separates Nasu-yama from
Asahi-dake, and by which the de-
scent is made. This is a delightful
walk of about 2^ hrs.. leading past
several of the mineral springs men-
tioned above.
The baths of Shiobara may con-
veniently be reached from Nasu by
a path through the forest to Seldya
(see p. 218), 6 ri. Horses abound
in this district.
ROUTE 21.
The Provinces of Shimosa,
K.4ZUSA, AND Boshu.
1 . CHIBA, CHOSHI, AND THE LAGOONS.
2. THEOTJGH THE PENINSULA TO
KATSU-UEA, AND EOUND THE SOTTTH
AND WEST COASTS TO KOMINATO,
NOKOGIRI-YAMA, AND KANO-ZAN.
These three provinces form a natural
division of the country. The oinnion of
geologists is that a great part of this
district, whose sands seem to have been
washed up by the sea, toj^ether with the
wide Tokyo plain which is formed by
alluvium washed down from the central
mountain-ranges, was submerged iu quite
Ghiba, Choshi, and the Lagoons.
221
recent times, and that only the southern
half of the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu
stood up out of the waves. This process
of rising and drying is still going on.
The large lagoons on the lower course of
the Tonegawa gradually .shrink in size,
and the same is true of Tokyo Bay. From
these considerations, it will be inferred
that the northern parts of this district are
somewhat dreary travelling. The S.
portion from Kano-zau downwards, with
tuff ranges which, though not exceeding
1,200 ft., seem higher because rising al-
most directly from the sea, will best
reward the tourist's trouble The coast of
Boshu in particular affords lovely views,
as well as a mild winter climate.
The three provinces of Shimosa, Kazu-
sa, and Boshii anciently formed one,
under the name Fusa no Kuni, said to
have been derived from the excellent
quality of the hemp grown there. The
district was subsequently divided into
Upper and liO'j'er, or Kami tsu Fusa and
Shimo tsu Fusa, now contracted into
Kazusa and Sldmosa, and part of the for-
mer was subsequently constituted into
the province of Awa, bettei' known by
Its alternative Chinese name of Boshu.
" Upper " and " Lower " seem to have been
employed to denote the relative proximity
of these two provinces to the ancient
capital. Kazusa, Boshu, and the greater
part of Shimosa now form the prefec-
ture of Chiba.
1. Chiba, Choshi, and the
Lagoons.
the sobu railway.
0)
Names
O ^ lO
a Q i^.
|g«
of
Remarks
.S*heh
o
Stations
TOKYO (Honjo)
2im.
Hirai
5
Koiwa
61^
Ichikawa
9"
Nakayama
111
Funabashi
13S
Tsudanuma
163
Makuhari
19i
Inage
r C h a n g e for
21 :i
CHIBA Jet
s Mubara and
(ichinomiya.
2ei
Yotsukaido
31J
Sakura Jot
( C h a n g e f or
(Narita.
40
Yachimata
4r;
Hyiiga
44|
Naruto
48
Matsao
50|
Yokoshiba
55i
Yoka-ichiba
58f
Hikata
61f
Asahi-machi
63
lioka
66*
Saruda
69J
Matsugishi
72
CHOSHI
The whole of this railway traver-
ses flat country. Before reaching
Ichikawa, we cross the Yedo-gawa,
where there is often a j)retty view
of boats sailing up the river. The
high wooded bluff on the 1. banlc is
Konodai, now the seat of a military
academy. Five cho from Nakayatna
stands Hokeky5ji, a temjile spe-
cially devoted to the worship of
Kishibojin (see p. 50), and enjoying
considerable local popularity.
Funabashi is a large town. At
Inage, there is a well-known bathing
establishment called KaiM-kwan.
Ch.iba [Inns, Kano-ya, Ume-
matsu-ya) is a prefectural town.
This prefecture ranks next to Yezo
in the abundance of its marine
products, the district of Ku-jii-ku-ri
to the S. of Cape Inuboe afforthng
the richest field. At Imai, just out-
side Chiba, and the succeeding vil-
lages along the coast, a considerable
manufacture of starch from the
sweet potato is carried on. A good
3 m. walk from Chiba is to the an-
cient Temple of Daiganji, standing
in a pine forest where thousands of
cormorants roost and build their
nests.
At Chiba the line leaves the coast,
and strikes N. W. for
Sakura [Inn, Kome-ya), a garri-
son town, 10 cho distant from its
station, and Narita (see p. 147).
Sakura castle was formerly the seat of
the Hotta family, which furnished many
statesmen to the Gorojii, or chief council
of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Its site is now
occupied by barracks.
From Yokoshiba onwards, the
country is very sandy and yet
green, OM-ing to cultivation and
pine- woods.
222 Route '1\. — The Provinces of Shimosa, Kazusa, and Bosh a.
Choshi (Inn, Daishin, over 1 m.
from the station) extends for 2^ m.
along the r. bank of the Tonegawa,
which here contracts, and rolls be-
tween sharp rocks into the sea.
The Temple of Kicannon, crowning
an eminence which divides the
town into two halves, commands
an agreeable prospect. Choshi is
noted for its soy, the manufacture
of which may be seen at Tanaka
Gemba's establishment, the oldest
and largest, which supphes the
Imperial Household. The chief
occupation of the inhabitants is
fishing. Immense quantities of
iwashi, a fish resembling the pil-
chard but smaller, are caught here
and all along the coast. They are
boiled in huge caul(h'ons to obtain
the oil, which is used for lamps ;
and the residue, dried in the sun,
is sent inland for manure. The
odour may be better imagined than
described.
Visitors to this portion of the
coast ■will find it pleasanter to put
Tip at Cape hmhoe, 1 ri 18 cho from
Choshi station. There is a good
inn, the Gyokei-kwan, situated in a
email bay close by the lighthouse,
and much frequented during the
summer months. The whole coast
called Ku-ja-ku-ri no hama, stretch-
ing S. from Chdshi, is flat, sandy,
•and uninteresting.
Travellers desirous of seeing
something of the large lagoons on
the lower course of the Tonegawa,
might vary the return to Tokyo by
taking steamer up the river to O-
funatsu on the Kita-ura lagoon,
thence also by steamer to Tsuchi-
ura on the Kasumi lagoon, and
home by train in 2J hrs. There is
daily communication.
The lagoon called Kita-iira is 6 ri long
from N. to S. and 1 ri wide. Kasumi-ga-
ura is 36 ri in cii-cuit and of a very
irregular shape. Its shores are flat and
well-wooded, and it contains sixteen
islands, of which Ukishima on the S. E.
■side is the largest. Pearls are fished for
in the vicinity.
The poor viU. of Ofunatsu stands
near the S. extremity of the Kita-
: ura lagoon, 18 cho by jinrikisha
' from the ancient temple of "Ka-
I shima, a noted pilgrim resort. A
broad avenue leads to the temple,
which is surrounded by a grove of
fine cryptomerias. The yearly fes-
tival takes place on the 9th iilarch.
The name Ka-shima means " Deer Is-
land,'' but the district is an island no
longer, and the deer are extinct. The
principal deity here worshipped is Take-
mika-zuchi. This god was one of those
sent down from heaven to Japan, to pre-
pare the advent of the line of earthly
sovereigns known afterwards as Mikados.
The temple is usually said to have been
founded in the " Age of the Gods," and
certainly dates from the prehistoric epoch.
A small enclosure behind con-
tains the Kaname-ishi, or " pivot
stone," supposed to ,be a pillar
whose foundation is at the centre
of the earth. This, though cele-
brated, is insignificant as a sight,
as one sees nothing but a few
inches of stone.
One account is that under this spot lies
confined the gigantic fish called nainazu,
whose contortions are the cause of earth-
quakes, and that the stone acts as some
restraint on the creature's movements.
Mitsukuni, the second Daimyo of Mito, is
said to have dug round it for six days
without finding the lower end.
About 1 m. from the temple is a
stretch of moorland called Takama-
no-hara, literally, " the Plain of High
Heaven," where the gods are sup-
posed to have assembled in days of
yore, and where stone an'ow-heads
may still occasionally be found.
A canal connects the _two big
lagoons. The trip fi'om Ofunatsu
to Tsuchiura occupies about 6 hrs.
The mountain constantly seen a-
head is Tsukuba.
2. — Theottgh the PkninsxtIjA to
Katsu-uea, and eound the S.&W.
Coasts to Kominato, Nokogiri-
YAMA, AND KaNO-ZAN.
This makes a good winter trip
either on foot or by jiniUdsha, as
the climate is mild and the ac-
commodation comfortable. There
being steam communication daily
with T6ky5 from Katsu-ura, Ama-
Tlirough the Peninsula to Kalnv-ura and A'omlnato. 223
tsu, Hojo, and the various villages
on the W. coast of the peninsiila,
travellers wishing to curtail their
journey can do so at almost any
tinae.
The first stage is by train to Chi-
ba (see p. 221), whence by another
line (that running to Ichinomiya on
the E. coast) as far as Mobara. The
itinerai-y onwards is as follows : —
MOBAKAto:— Bi Cho M.
Chdnan 2 — 5
Odaki 2 20 Gj
Katsu-iira 5 16 IS^^
Koiuinato 3 21 8|
Amatsu 1 3 2J
Kamogawa 1 27 4^
Euii 2 12 5|
Wada 17 3
Matsuda 1 18 3|
Shirako 1 5 2|
Asahina 33 2^
Shirahama 2 27 5|
Mera 1 34 4|
TATEYAMA 2 20 6^
Hojo 13 I
Kachiyama 4 14 10|
Hota 1 — 2J
Kanaya 1 8 3
Take-ga-oka 1 21 4 J
Teujinyama (Minato) 34 2^-
Kano-zan 3 — Ih
KISAKAZU 4 23 \1\
Total.... 48 6 117J
From Mobara southwards to the
coast the road leads through
numerous small valleys, cultivated
and well-wooded.
Chonan {Inn, K5ji-ya). The
noted Temple of Kasamori, dedicat-
ed to the Eleven-faced Kwan-
non, 1 ri E. of this town by
jinrikisha, is a curiosity worth turn-
ing aside to see. It stands among
patriarchal pines and cryptomerias,
and is built on a platform resting on
the point of an irregular conical
rock some 50 ft. in height, the edges
being sujiported by stout wooden
scaflEolding. Three flights of stairs
lead to the top. Of the numerous
votive offerings brought by rustic
worshippers, the most touching are
suits of very tiny children's dresses
set up in glass cases. There is a
fair inn at the bottom of the hill
on which the temple stands. The
annual festival is celebrated on the
17th August.
The holy image here worshipped, .say
the temple records, was carved out of
camphor-wood by Dengyo Daishi ; and
though the minor buildings have been
burnt down at various times, the main
shrine, which dates from the year 1028,
subsists unhurt to this day, — an evident
proof of the goddess's special grace.
Retracing our steps to Chonan
(nothing is gained by attempting a
short cut), we next reach
Odaki [Inn, Odald-ya), a fair-
sized country town. On approach-
ing the coast, the road becomes de-
lightfully smooth and firm. It has
been cut out of the low rounded
hills formed of sea sand which
characterise this region, while the
intervening valleys laave been filled
in and built up to the necessary
level. The sea comes in sight just
before reaching
Katsu-ura [Inn, Kozen), a clean
and thriving little seaport town.
The temple-crowned hill above it
commands an extensive view. The
fishermen all along the coast of
these provinces of Kazusa and
Bdshii occasionally wear gorgeous
gowns adorned with stamped
coloiu-ed designs of the rising sun,
birds, fishes, singing-girls, etc.
These are rewards bestowed by their
employers on the occasion of large
catches, and are brought out on
high days and holidays. Turning
westwards, it is a very pretty walk
hence along the coast, with Cape
Nojima standing out clearly in the
distance. Considerable tunnelling
through the soft Umestone rock,
and cuttings in the cliffs, save
many ups and downs on the way.
The long vill. of
Kominato {Inn, Seikai-ro) is
built round the shores of a small
bay. The western part is Kominato
proper, the eastern is called Uchi-
224 Route 21. — The Frovinoes of Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu.
ura, at the entrance to which stands
a temjole famous thronghoTit Japan
as the birthplace of the great
Buddhist saint, Nichiren.
According to some, the original site of
the temple founded by Nichiren himself
on the very spot which gave him birth, is
now under a stretch of sea called Tai-no-
ura, said to be the resort of numbers of
tai fish, which are held sacred by the
fishermen. Another tradition is that
from the day of the saint's birth until he
was seven days old, two of these fish five
feet long used daily to appear in the pond
in his father's garden, whence the spot,
since covered by the waves, took its
name of " Tax Bay." In any case, there
is only just sufficient space between the
sea and the steexj hills behind for the row
of houses forming the double village of
Kominato and Uchi-ura.
The temple raised to the memory
of Nichiren is called Tanjoji, or the
Temple of the Bii-th. The main
temple is an nnpainted wooden
building, 72 ft. square inside, built
in 1846. The porch has some ex-
cellent carvings of tortoises and
lions' heads. The birds in the
brackets of the transverse beams
and the new dragons above are
also good. The interior is very
simple, its only decoration being
four large panels carved with
dragons, and a coffered ceiling
vsdth the Mikado's crest painted in
each compartment. On the altar
stands a handsome black and gold
shrine containing a Kfe-like image
of the saint, who is represented as
reading fi-om a richly gilt scroll
containing a portion of the Hoke-
kyo. The doors of the shrine are
kept closed except dming service,
when they are thrown open in order
that worshippers may gaze upon
Nichiren's countenance.
To the r., just inside the outer
gate, is a small square building
over the well which nominally
suppUed the water {ianjo-sid) used
to wash the infant saint, — nomi-
nally only, because the original sijot
was overwhelmed by a tidal wave
in A. D. 1498.— The annual festi-
val takes place on the 12th and 13th
days of the 10th moon, old style.
Atnatsu [Inn,, Abura-ya at the
W. end) is another very long \il-
lage, and a better place to stay at
than Kominato.
A little more than 1 ri due N.
of Amatsu, and approachable by
jinrikisha, stands the mountain vill.
of Kiyosumi (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya),
1,000 ft. above the sea, celebrated
for its temple to Kokuzo Bosatsu.
The way leads up through pine-
woods, which cover the hills
as far as the eye can reach. The
handsome main shrine contains
some good carvings of Buddhist
deities. Its site too is remark-
ably beautiful, giant cryptomerias
sheltering the gi'oiTnds. The small
eminences close by the temple
command a glorious pros[)ect, both
landward and seaward. The in-
vigorating air and the absence
of mosqiiitoes attract many Japa-
nese visitors during the summer
months.
[From Kiyosumi a direct road
through pine-woods cuts due
W. across the peninsula to
Hota, about 10 ri]
Kamogawa (Inn, Yoshida-ya)
is a fair-sized town. The chief
object of interest on this part of
the coast is Niernon-jima, a tiny
islet off Cape Nabuto. The road
passes within a few ehd of the
ferry.
During a reverse of fortune, Yoritomo
was assisted by one Niemon, and shelter-
ed in a cave on this islet. 'When he rose
to supreme power, he granted the sole
possession of the islet (no wide domain
certainly) to his benefactor, whence its
present name.
From here on to Emi (Inn,
Koike-ya) and beyond, daffodils
and other flowers abound near the
sea-shore, and fill the air with
their fragrance at Christmas time.
Matsuda (Inn, Kawanishi).
[Here there is a short cut across
the tiny province of Boshii at
its narrowest part to Hojo, 3
ri 25 cho.']
The mineral springs of Cliigura
Tateyama . Nokogiri-i/ai uci.
225
Onsen, in the township of Asahina,
offer good accommodation ; but the
bathing arrangements do not suit
European ideas.
[At Shirahama again a road cuts
across to H5j5, about 3 »•*.]
On the low headland of Nbjima,
stands a fine lighthouse, whose
light is visible for 20 miles. During
tins part of the way Vries Island
remains constantly in view, with its
pillar of smoke by day and tire by
night. The climate here is so mild
that the village children may be
seen playing .ibout almost naked
even in winter.
Travellers not })ressed for time
might find it pleasant to stay over
a night at the *Yuji-kwan, an
isolated inn perched on the hill-
side close to a pretty beach just
under the Mera lighthouse, and
10 cho from the vill. of Mera.
Fishing-boats ptit out in large
numbers during the season to catch
bonitos around Vries Island and
others of the chain extenchng
southward towards Hachijo. Su-
nosaki, lit. " sand cape," deserves
its name, and the way round it is
not recommended. Our inland
route leads over a gentle hill by a
finely giaded road to
Tateyama and Hojo {In7is,
*Kimui'a-ya, *Yoshino-kwan). These
two towns are practically continu-
ous, being only se^Darated by a
small stream. Hojo commands an
incomparable view of Fuji across
the sea. Nowhere else does
the mountain seem to rise to so
great a height, completely dom-
inating the Oyama and 'Amagi
ranges which extend r. and 1.,
while on either hand the shores
of the bay stretch round to form
a fitting frame for this lovely
picture. The little bay of Tate-
yama is known in Japanese as
Karjami no ura, or " Mirror Reach,"
and is a favourite spot for sea-
bathing, owing to its pleasant
beach and generally smooth water.
A steamer leaves Hojo daily for
Tokyd at about 10 A.M., calhng at
several places along the coast of
Bdshu and Kazusa, and reaches
Tokyo in 7 hrs. under favourable
circumstances. Another leaves
about noon, calling at Uraga.
A good jinriMsha road leads
along the coast through the towns
of Kachiyama [Inn, Naka-jin),
Hoia, and Motona, the two latter
being continuous. The cUmb up
Nokogiri-yama is made from
Motona, the descent to Kanaya
(poor accommodation), to which
place the jinriMshas should be sent
on. The detoitr is a slight one,
occupying only about 1-} hr.
This mountain takes its name,
which means " Saw Mountain,"
from the serrated ridge of peaks
that follow each other in regiolar
gradation from the highest on the
E. down to the sea-shore. Hound
the promontory thus formed, passes
the highway to Kanaya. Scat-
tered over the south side of the
mountain are the remains of a set
of stone images of the Five Hun-
dred Eakan, many of them now
headless or otherwise mutilated.
Besides these, there is a shrine
hewn out of the Hving rock, in the
centre of which is a stone effigy
of the person to whose initiative
the carving of the other five
hundred images was due. The
view fi'om the point called Mi-
luirashi, 850 ft. above the sea, is
lovely. Westward rises the peiiect
form of Fuji above the low coast
of Sagami, while to the S. a suc-
cession of bays and promontories
marks the W. coast of BoshCi.
First comes the vill. of Yoshihama,
bent at an obtuse angle along the
sea-shore, and beyond it the cape
under which nestles the httle town
of Kachiyama. To the E. are the
higher peaks of Nokogui-yama, and
in fi'ont a mass of lesser hills
intervening between the ridge and
the valley of the Minato-gawa.
The lighthouse on Kwannon-saki
is a prominent landmark bearing
N.W. by N. — ^Extensive quarries on
226 Route 21. — TJ^e Pro\:inces of Shimosa, Kazusa, and BokKu.
the N. side are passed on the way
down.
Tunnelling characteiises this sec-
tion of the road onwards for several
miles. At Hagyu the local wonder
is a small cavern containing a well,
called Eoijane-ido, or the Golden
"WeU, on account of a yellow scum
that rises on its surface. This
effect is due to the fluorescent
property of the water ; but the
simple country-folk hang the usual
emblems of worship about the
cavern.
Tenjin-yama or Minato [Inn,
*Siury6-kwan). This prettily situat-
ed place contains a few sake
breweries and soy manufactories,
the produce of which is shipped in
junks to Tokyo; but the population
consists chiefly of fishermen. A
smooth sandy beach with a W. as-
pect stretches 1| m. along the
shore to the N., affording excellent
bathing. About 1 m. off rises
Myoken-yama, which commands a
fine view.
The way nov>- ascends the valley
of the ilinato-gawa to Sakurai (not
to be confounded ^vith the other
Till, of the same name near Ki-
sarazu mentioned below), and
thence up the slopes of Kano-zan,
which have been afforested with
pine trees in recent years.
Kano-zan (Inn, Marashichi), a
village of about lUO houses, stands
on the top of the mountain of the
same name, which, rising to a height
of 1,260 ft. on the borders of Kazusa
and Boshti, forms a conspicu-
ous object in the view across Tokyo
Bay. The inn faces W., and com-
mands a superb prospect : — below,
the blue waters of Tokyo Bay,
beyond which rises Fuji ; to the 1.
the Hakone range ; to the r. the
Oyama and Tanzawa ranges : and
fuilher N. the Nikko mountains,
Akagi-san, and Tsukuba. Even
more comprehensive is the view
from the hill just below ihe inn,
used as one of the principal trigon-
ometrical survey stations of Japan.
Among the prettiest walks at Kano-
zan is one to a waterfall, 1 m. from
the vill. The volume of water, 35 ft.
in height, is small ; but the basin
into which it f;xlls is curious,
having rocks on either side coming
together like the bows of an
ironclad.
A 10 min. walk, affording a view
unique in its way, is as follows : —
Passing through the lower street
of Kan5-zan towards the N., we
reach 1. a flight of 218 stone
steps, at the top of which stands
a small Shinto shrine. This is
the highest point of the mountain ;
but being overgi'own with tall
trees, the summit offers no
view. Opposite the steps on the
r., a short path leads to the brow
of the hill, whence there is a fine
prospect towards the E. and N.
The side of the mountain here
slopes away very abruptly ; and
below, as far as the eye can reach,
he low but sharp ridges covered
with brushwood, intersecting and
meeting so as to form a multitiide
of tiny valleys, in most of which rice
is cultivated. The ■sdew from this
point has therefore received the
name of Ku-ju-ku Tani, or the
Ninety-nine Valleys.
The descent to the foot of Kano-
zan is about J hr. walk, whence
through pretty rural scenery to
Sakurai [Inn, Kadomatsu-ya), a
small vill. 23 cho from the flomish-
ing port of
Kisarazu [Inns, Fushimi, Tori-
kai). From here there is daily steam
communication with Tokyo (see
p. 112).
Boufe 22. — The Ead Goad Bailway.
227
ROUTE 22.
The East Coast E,att,way.
fbom tokyo to mito, and along
the coast to taiba and sendal.
<£
Names
O „ lO
a S ^
of
Remarks
"■"H
fi
Stations
TOKYO (Ueno)
21m.
Tabata Jet.
*■;
Minami Senju
5i
Kita Senju
8?
Kameari
9 -J
Kanamachi
12i
Matsudo
14.':
Mabashi
191
Kaehiwa
•22
Abiko
25-;
Toride
29J
Fujisbiro
34
Dshiku
38
Arakawa-Oki
(Alight for
421
TSUCHIURA....
jTsuknba, see
(p. 150,
46
Kandatsu
50
Takataama
521
Ishioka
561
Hatori
59|
Iw:ima
r For branch
64
Tomobe Jet
\ to Oyama on
(Northern By.
67
Uchihara
70A
Akatsuka
741
MITO
80,1
Sawa
88'
Omika
905
Shimo-Mago
93|
Sukegawa
99 i'
Kawashiri
loai
Takahagi
1091
Isohara
113A
Sekimoto
1161
Nakoso
1191
Ueda
123,?
Izumi
( Road to Shira-
127 ij
Yumoto
< kawa on
( "Northern Ry.
1293
Tsuzura
1321
TAIRA
136
Kusano
138 2
Yotsukura
141 j
Hisa-no-hania
146]
Hirono
1501
Kido
156i
Tomioka
166^
Nagatsnka
169i
Namie
175
Kotaka
178
Iwaki-Ota
180?
Harano-machi
185^
Kashima
1931
Nakamura
198?
Shinchi
2021
Sakamoto
207 J-
Yoshida
210A
Watari
215?
IWANUMA Jet.
This line, traversing the prov-
inces of Shinaosa, Hitachi, and
Iwaki, joins the Northern Ea,ilway
system just sonth of Sendai, and
thus affords an alternative route
for the traveller proceeding north-
wards.
Running through the rice plains
that surround Tokyo and Mito, it
then passes along the naiTOW strip
of cultivated ground bordering the
Pacific coast, which it closely sMrts
most of the way to Taira. Inter-
esting glimpses are obtained of
some of the lagoons connected
with the Tonegawa ; and although
the coast line is sandy and mono-
tonously straight, the breakers and
occasional rocky inlets, \\ith fish-
ing villages here and there, lend
something of variety and colour.
In the section north of Taira the
Iwaki hills stretch in one low,
unbroken hne on the 1. almost
all the way to Iwanuma. The rail-
way runs midway between the hiUs
and the coast, and beyond Tomioka
station the sea rarely comes in
sight.
Diverging from the Northern
Railway at Tabata, the hne striltes
due E., passing through Senju, an
extensive suburb of Tokyo. After
crossing the Nakagawa and Yedo-
gawa, it turns northwards, and
reaches the main stream of the
Tonegawa, which is spanned by a
long iron bridge at
Toride, a cleanly town on its 1.
bank. The Ushiku-numa, seen to
the 1. beyond Fujishiro, is a long,
narrow, and shaUow lagoon. Tsti-
kuba-san, with its twin peaks, also
comes in sight 1. before
228
Route 22. — Tlie East Coast Railway.
Tsuchiura {Inn, Matsuya). This
former castle-town stands at the
W. end of Kasumi-ga-ura, the
largest of the lagoons. Small
steamers start every morning, and
call in at the villages scattered
along the shore. Ishioka was like-
wise a castle town in feiidal days.
As the train approaches Mito, a
number of cavities are seen on the
1. in the high bluff on which a
portion of the town is built. These
galleries were hollowed out for the
sake of the blocks used in the
manufacture of soft-stone furnaces.
Mito [hins, SuzuM-ya, with
branch at station ; Izumi-ya),
the principal town of the prov-
ince of Hitachi and capital of
the prefecture of Ibaraki, lies some
3 ri inland fi-om the shore of the
Pacific Ocean, on rising ground in
tbe midst of a wdde plain. The
town is in three divisions, the
Lower Town, the Upper Town, and
the Castle Enclosure which lies
between the other two. The castle,
where formerly dwelt the lords of
Mito, is picturesquely situated on
the crest of the high ground that
rises from the plain. The defences
consisted of deep trenches on the
upper town side, and lofty banks —
the edge of the hill in fact — on the
other, with a small moat below.
Three large gates and one tower
still remain. It is worth walking
roirnd the castle and under the
beautiful trees within the grounds.
The Public Garden on the E. of the
upper town, overlooking the large
mere of Semba, is also prettily
situated.
It was laid out some fifty years ago by
Kekko, lord of Mito, as a retreat for
himself after handing over the cares of
government to his successor. See p. 79 for
the part played by this noble house in the
modern history of Japan.
A good view is obtained from the
summer-house in the garden, where
men of letters formerly assembled
to -wiite verses and practise calli-
graphy. The staple manu-
factures of Mito are cloth and
paper. Tobacco is also made into
cigarettes in large quantities, and
a considerable export trade is car-
ried on in both salt and fresh-
water fish.
The visitor with time to spare
may run out by jinrikisha to the
pleasant sea-side hamlet of Oarai
{Inn, Kimpa-ro), 3 ri, a favourite
resort of the IVIito folk.
A short line of railway connects
Mito ^\ith Ota, an important town
some 14 m. to the N.
Very little of the town of Mito is
visible fi-om the train, which merely
skirts the 8. and E. suburbs.
Leading it, we cross the Nakagawa,
noted for its salmon, and in f hr.
approach the Pacific coast at Omika.
The ancient highway will often be
distinguished on the r. by its
avenue of pine-trees. There are
two pretty pieces of sea-beach on
this section visible from the caniage
windows, — -one at Isohara, where
the small i^romontory of Tempi-san,
with its fine trees and rocks, recalls
Enoshima in luiniature, and another
near Nakoso, close to the boi;ndary
which separates the provinces of
Hitachi and Iwaki. At Nakoso also
stood in ancient times one of the
barriers erected by government in
days when the object was, not to en-
courage travel, but to impede it.
This spot was immortahsed in verse
by Minamoto-no-Yoshiie (see p. 72,
under Hachiman Tard), while on his
way back from conquests in the
north.
Every lover of Japanese poetry knows
the lines by heart. They run thus :—
Fuku kaze wo
Nakoso no seki to
Omoishi ni
Michi mo se ni chiru
Vama-zakura kana ! —
which may be Englished as follows : —
' ■ Jlethought this barrier, with its gusty
breezes, was a mere name ; but lo ! the
wild cherry-blossoms flutter down so as
to block the path.''
The railway leaves the sea near
[feda, to strike in amongst a
Promnce of Iwaki.
229
conglomeration of conical hills
which have necessitated a good deal
of tunnelling. One ri from Izumi
station lies the little port of Ona-
hama, which is almost the sole place
of refuge on this inhospitable coast.
Two miles to the N.W. of Yumoto
{Inn, ShintaM, with hot mineral
baths), are the coal-mines of Ono-
da, near Yunotake (2,060 ft.), a peak
conspicuous for this part of the
country.
Taira (Inn, Sumiyoshi, with
branch at station), situated in a
kind of basin enclosed on every
side by low liills, is the only town
of any importance on this line
north of Mito.
[Though the Province of Iwaki
is not generally considered at-
tractive, the following itinerary
from Taira to Koriyama on the
Northern Railway is given for
the benefit of such as may
desire to traverse it. The road
mostly leads N.W. up the coui'se
of the Natsui-gawa (charming
in autumn -with the maples
lining its banks), and is practi-
cable for jinrildshas. The best
stopping-places are Ono-Nii-
machi and Miharu, the latter
town being connected with
Koriyama by tramway.
Itinerary.
TAIRA to:— Ri Cho M.
Uwadaii'a 2 14 5|
Kawamae 4 3 10
Ono-Niimachi. 4 8 1Q\
Kadosawa 3 15 8i
Miharu ,.... 3 10 S"
KORIYAMA... 3 11 8
Total 20 25 50J ]
Between Yotsukura and Hirono
lies the most picturesque portion of
the N.E. Coast Railway. Spurs of
the hUls run down to the shore ;
and as the train emerges fi'om the
tunnels that have been cut through
them, delightful sea views appear
at every opening. In the vicinity
of Hirono some coal-mining is
carried on. Tunnelling continues
at intervals on to Namie, whence
for manjf miles the natural features
of the country resemble those
around Kamakura and Yokosuka, —
low hills projecting in aU directions
like tiny peninsulas, and the inter-
vening valleys being cultivated with
rice. These give place after Hara-
no-machi (Inn, Maru-ya), which is a
fair-sized town, to an alternation of
pine-woods and paddy-fields.
Nakaxaura (Inn, Ise-ya). The
hamlets of Matsukawa-ura (Inn,
Ise-ya) and Haragama (Inn, Toyo-
kwan) lie 1 ri 8 cho and 1 ri 20 cho
respectively in the same direction
from this station, with excellent
sea-bathing and pretty coast sce-
nery. Matsukawa-ura stands on a
large lagoon, separated from the
sea by a long strip of sandy beach.
Tiny islets covered with pine-trees
dot the lagoon, whose shores are
also lined with fine old specimens
of the same tree. Haragama is on
the sea-coast.
On leading Shinchi, where we
obtain our last peep of the sea, the
double row of pine-trees planted to
screen the fields from the northern
blasts form an unusual feature
in the landscape. Soon the Iwaki
hills draw in a little ; and on passing
YosMda, a rice plain stretches away
to the north. The wide sandy bed
of the Shiroishi-gawa is crossed just
before entering the junction of
Iwanuma (see Route 65).
Il-i>^l^ > '^Jt.
1
SECTION II.
ROUTES CONNECTING TOKYO
WITH KYOTO.
(koutes 2^ 2^.
Route. 23. — The Tokaido.
283
ROUTE 23.
The Tokaido by Rail from Tokyo
TO Kyoto and Kobe.
from OKITSU to SHIZUOKA "VIA THE
TEMPLES OF KTJNO-ZAN. FROM
KAKEGAWA TO AKIHA. WATERFALIj
OF YORO.
o
Names
a a >»
of
Kemarks
Stations
TOKYO (Shim-
Miles.
bashi)
31
Shinagawa
6
lOi
Omori
See Route 3.
Kawasaki
124
Tsurumi
]6i
Kanagawa
)
18
YOKOHAMA
20i
Hodogaya
2G
Totsuka
fChange for
29i
OFUNAJct
\ Kamakura &
( Yokosuka.
321
Fujisawa
361
Chigasaki
i Alight f or_ as-
■101
Hiratsuka
\ ceut of Oya-
( ma (p. 109).
43
Oiso
rAlight for
4'.t
KOZII
Miyanoshita,
Hakone, and
[ Atami.
55
Matsutla
59
Yamakita
64
Oyama
71
Gotemba
(Alight for as-
\ cent of Fuji.
80
Sano
83i
Mishima
864
Numazu
904
Hara
/Travellers
from the west
alight for
Fuji. Atlwa-
96
Suzukawa
•i buchi alight
101
Iwabnchi
for Kami-Ide
waterfalls (p.
176) and Mi-
104
Kambara
, nobu(Ete.27).
110
Okitsu
( Excursion to
\ Kuno-zan.
114
Ejiri
120
SHIZUOKA
128
Yaizu
132
Fujieda
137
Shimada
140
Kanaya
146
Hori-no-uclii
150
Kakegawa
(Alight for
\ Akiha.
156
Fukuroi
161
Nakaizumi
Travellers
down rapids
of Tenryu
165
Tenryii-gawa ....
^ & bound E.,
enter train
here, but ex-
press does
not stop.
Tenryu travel-
168
HAMAMATSU..
lers for the
W. enter train
here.
174
Maizaka
180
Washizu
186
190
196
Futagawa
Toyohashi
Goyu
( Bran ch to
( Toyokawa.
201
Kamagori
210
Okazaki
2254
An jo
220"
Kariya
f Change for
223
Obu
J Handa, and
( Taketoyo.
228
Otaka
231
Atsuta
(("hange for
235
NAGOYA Jet. ...
J I 8 e and
240
Kiyosu
t Kwansai By.
246
Ichinomiya
249
Eisogawa
254
GIFU
263
Ogaki
268
271
Tarui
(Alight for
( Yoro.
Seki-ga-hara
278
Nagaoka
fC hange for
284
MAIBARA Jet . . .
\ Nagahama
( & TsTiruga.
288
Hikone
292
Kawase
297
Notogawa
302
Hachiman
308
Yasu
313
KUSATSU Jet. . .
(Change for
\ Kwansai line.
319
Baba (OTSUt
321
Otani
3244
Yamashina
3274
Inari
329
KYOTO
333
Mukomachi
337A
Yamazaki
3424
Takatsuki
3464
Ibaraki
351
Suita
359
OSAKA
361
Kanzaki Jet.
365
Nishinomiya
370
375
Sumiyoshi
San-no-miya . . .
(See caution at
( end of Route.
376
k5be
234
Route 2'S. — The Tokaido.
The word Tokaido aignifies " Eastern
Sea Koad." The name was given to this
road at an early date on account of its
running along the sea-shore in an easterly
direction from Kyoto, which, being the
old historic capital, was naturally
regarded as the starting-point. From the
17th century onwards, the Tokaido was
traversed twice yearly by Daimyos coming
with gorgeous retinues to pay their re-
spects to the Shogun at Yedo : and all
the chief towns, here as on the other great
highways of the empire, were provided
with honjin — that is, specially fine hos-
telries— for their lordships to sleep at.
The greater portion of the beautiful avenue
of pine-trees with which the road was
lined still exists, and can be seen oc-
casionally from the windows of the railway
carriage. The road itself is now com-
paratively deserted. " But what a scene it
used to present ! How crowded with
pedestrians ; with norimono (the palan-
quins of the upper crust), and attendants :
with cangoes (the modest bamboo
conveyance of the humble classes) ;
with pack-horses, conveying merchandise
of all kinds to and from the capital
or to the busy towns and villages along
the route ; with the trains of Daimjos or of
lesser gentrj' entitled to travel with a
retinue ; and with the commonalty, men,
women and children, on foot, all with
their dresses turned up for facility of
movement, and for the roost part taking
the journey pretty easily : frequently
stopping at the numberless tea-houses or
resting sheds by the way, and refresh-
ing themselves with the simple little
cup of weak green tea, and a cheery chat
with whomsoever might stop like them-
selves to rest. It used to seem that dis-
tance was no consideration with them.
They could go on all day. and day
after day, if only they were allowed
(which they generally were) to take their
own time and pace. The value of time
never entered into their thoughts. . . .
The numerous trains of armed men pass-
ing in both directions were the most strik-
ing feature of the scene. Never could one
go out of one's house in any direction,
but these two-sworded men were met
with ; but on the Tokaido, and in the
streets of Yedo, they appeared to be more
numerous than the common people : and
it must be understood that at this time of
which I am speaking, the crowds on por-
tions of the road and in all the principal
thoroughfares of the capital, were as great
as in the most crowded thoroughfares of
London. It took one forcibly back to the
feudal times in Europe, when no noble or
landed propsrietor thought of going abroad
unattended by his armed dependants. Ad-
ded to this, there was a certain air of
antiquity that imparted its charm to the
scene. The old Dutch writers described
the road long ago, and it was even in their
day, precisely as it was in ours. A good,
well macadamised causeway, (except that
the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of
broken stones), passing through numerous
populous villages, only divided from each
other by short intervals, where tine old
trees on both sides of the road were the
sole division between the road and the
paddy fields. The etiquette of the road
was well and rigidly defined. When the
trains of two princes met, it was incum-
bent on the lesser of them — (measured by
his income as recognised by the Govern-
ment, and published in the official list), to
dismount from his norimon, if he hap-
pened to be riding in one, and draw with
his followers to the side of the road whilst
the other passed. Whenevei it was
possible, therefore, such meetings were
avoided." *
The railway was begun in 1872 and
finished as a single Une in 1889. The
process of doubling it is still incomplete.
The journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, which
formerly was an affair of 12 or 13 days on
foot, i.s now reduced to 14! hrs.
Travellers with time on hand are
advised to break the journey at
Kozu, in order to visit Miyanoshita
and Hakone (Ete. 6) ; at Okitsu, in
order to visit Eunb-zun on the way
between that station and Shiziioka ;
at Shizuoka itself, and at Nmjoya.
Of these places, three, viz. Miyano-
shita, Shiznoka, and Nagoya, have
hotels in foreign style. Those who
are hunied may console themselves
for missing these interesting places
by the knowledge that the scenery
through which they are to pass of-
fers many chamis, including superb
views of Fuji fiom both the land
and the sea side. The least in-
teresting portion of the line is that
between Shizuoka and Nagoya, a
6 hours' run which may with
comparatively Uttle disadvantage be
performed after dark, as most of it
passes through flat country devoted
to the cultivation of rice.
The first hour of the journey, —
that between Tokyo and Yokohama,
— ha\ing been already described
in Eoute 3, calls for no further
remark. Some trains run into Yoko-
hama station to pick up passengers
for the west, and run out again
* This description is quoted from
Black's Young Japan, Vol. I., p. 163, e.t seq.
From Ofuna to Sana.
2^1
for a few min. over the same ground,
but soon diverging to the 1. Other
trains, by an arrangement most
inconvenient to travellers starting
from Yokohama, leave Yokohama
aside and run straight fi'om Kana-
gawa to the small station of Hodo-
gaya, where the Yokohama passen-
gers are picked up. At
Ofuna Junction, a short branch
line takes travellers to the famous
Daibutsu at Kamakura (see pp.
101-3).
Fujisawa {Inns, Inage-ya and
Wakamatsu-ya at station). The
Buddliist temple of Yugyo-dera,
8 cho from the station, is known
far and v(dde for the wonderful
powers of heahng, etc., ascribed to
its successive abbots. The es-
tablished custom is for the abbot
to spend all his time in pious
journeyings, and return to Fuji-
sawa only at the approach of death.
The present temple is spacious and
possesses a handsome altar, but
can nowise be compared mth the
earher set of buildings destroyed
by fire in 1880. Fujisawa is the
nearest station for the sacred island
of Enoshima (see p. 105). After
passing Fujisawa, the Hakone range,
behind which towers the cone of
Fuji, begins to come in sight r. Soon
afterwards, the line crosses the
broad, stony bed of the river
Banyu, which rises in Lake Yama-
naka on the N.E. flank of Fuji.
Oiso (Inn, *T6ryo-kwan) is a
bathing resort which has become
fashionable of late years ; the hill-
side is dotted with the villas of
the Japanese nobUity. The coast
from here onwards is well-protect-
ed from ■winter winds, an advan-
tage to which the groves of orange-
trees coveiing the surrounding
slopes bear witness. At
£[5zu (Inn, Kozu-kwan), the hne
turns inland up the vaUey of the
Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid the
Hakone mountains which effect-
ually bar the way to all but
pedestrians. The scenery now
becomes mountainous, with to the
1. the chief peaks of the Hakone
range, — Futago-yama (the " Twin
Mountain," so-called fi'om its
double round summit), Mydjin-
ga-take, Kamiyama, and Kin-
toM-zan (tooth-shaped). An extra
engine is put on at Yamakita to
help the train up to Gotemba, the
highest point on the line, — 1,500 ft.
above sea-level. Between Yama-
Idta and Oyama (not_to be mistaken
for the mountain Oyama, with a
long O), the scenery becomes wilder
and there is a rapid succession of
tunnels and bridges, testifying to
the engineering difficulties that had
to be conquered. Reaching
Gotemba {Inn, Fuji-ya at sta-
tion ; the old vill. is 12 cho distant),
the passenger finds himself in the
broad and fertile plain stiiTounding
Fuji's base, — a plain whose soil
indeed has been formed by the
outi^ourings of the great mountain
during countless ages. Nothing
here inteiTupts the view of the
volcano from base to summit. The
long-ridged wooded mountain im-
mediately to the 1. of Fuji is
AshUaka (see p. 17G). The range
to the spectator's 1. fi'om the car-
riage window is the Hakone range,
the lowest point of M'hich seen from
here is the Oiome-tuge leathng over
to IVIiyanoshita.
Gotemba (literally, "Palace Site") de-
rives its name from having been the seat
of the hunting-lodge of the great Shogun
Yoritomo, when he came from his capital
at Kamakura to hunt iu the ueighbom--
hood of Fuji. The Fuji no maki-gari , as
these royal hunting parties were called,
are often represented in art, especially on
screens : and various localities iu the
surrounding country-side have names
connecting them with incidents real or
imaginary of the chase.
At Sauo, there is a semi-Europ-
ean Hotel close to the waterfalls
{8ano no taki), 12 cho fi'om the sta-
tion by jinrikisha. The water form-
ing these fine falls comes from Lake
Hakone, via the tunnel mentioned
on p. 160. Kei-ga-shima, 17 cho
beyond the falls, is another pictiu-
236
Route 2'^. -The Tdkaido.
esqne spot, remarkable for its
curious rocks.
One still has Fuji and Ashitaka
to the r., the other mountains from
r. to 1. being Amagi-san in Izu,
Yahazu-yama (a small peak), Higa-
ne-san on the other side of which
lies Atami, the Hakone range, and
in fi-ont — isolated as if let drop
independently into the plain —
Kanold-yama. The railway turns
■west, and rejoins the old Tokaidd at
Numazu (Inns, Sugimoto,
Kikyo-ya). There is much marshy
ground in this neighbourhood,
whence probably the name of the
place (/iwHia = "m.arsh"). Most
persons, rather than stay at Nimia-
zu itself, prefer to go on 25 min.
by jinriMsha to the Till, of i^shibu-
se (see p. 164). The Crown Prince
frequently resides at a villa 1 ri out
of Niimazu to the S. E. It is about
Suzukawa (Inns, SiTzrJd-ya, at
station; Bessd, near the sea, with
fine \iew) that the nearest and
most perfect view of Fuji is obtain-
ed. Nowhere else does the " Peer-
less Mountain " so absolutely dom-
inate its sun-oundings. The
beauty of the stretch of shore from
here to the mouth of the Fujikixwa,
called Tago-tw-ura, has been sung
by a hundred Japanese poets. The
Fujikawa is noted for its rapids
(see Kte. 27). From
Ivcabuchi (Lin, Tani-ya at sta-
tion) to Okitsu is very beautiful,
the space between the sea and a
range of hills to the r. becoming so
naiTow as barely to leave room for
the railway to skirt the shore. In
the neighbourhood of
Kambara, fields of sugar-cane
^^all be observed.
The cultivation of the small but hardy
Chinese variety of the sugar cane (Saccha-
rum sinense) is carried on with fair success
in the warmer provinces of Japan, such as
Mikawa, Owari, Kishii, Southern Shibo-
iu, and Satsuma. Being unable to with-
stand the frosts of winter, it is planted
out in March or April, and harvested not
later than November. The cane, which is
used for planting, is buried in a dry place
to preserve it from the cold. In spring it
is cut into pieces, which are planted out
in the usual way.
Okitsu (Inns, Minakuchi-ya ;
Tokai Hotel) has a lovely view of
the Bay of Suniga, the large
mountainous peninsula of Izu, and
to the r. the j)oint of land called
Min-no- Mai Sahara, celebrated aUke
in poetry and art. It is covered
with pine-trees, is low and sandy,
hence more pleasant to look at
than to walk on. Still fiulher to
the r. lie the Kuno-zan hills, with
the white little seaport town of
Shimizu nestling at their base.
At Mio-no-Matsubara is laid the scene
of Ha-goromo, or " The Kobe of Feathers,"
one of the prettiest and most fanciful of
the Japanese Lyric Dramas {-Xo no Utai).
A fisherman, landing on this strand, finds
a robe of feathers hanging to a pine-tree,
and is about to carry it off as treasure-
trove, when a beautiful fairy suddenly
appears an<l implores him to restore
it to her, for that it is hers, and
without it she cannot fly home to the
Moon, where she is one of the attendants
on the thirty monarchs who rule that
sphere. At first the fisherman refuses
to grant her request. He only does so
when, after many tears and agonies of
despair, she promises to dance for him
one of the dances known only to the
immortals Draped in her feathery robe,
she dances beneath the pine-trees on
the beach, while celestial music and
an unearthly fragrance fill the air. At
last her wings are caught by the breeze,
and she soars heavenward past Mount
Ashitaka, past Fuji, till she is lost
to view. There is still a small shrine
on Mio-no-JIatsubara dedicated to this
fairy, where a relic of her robe is
shown.
The Temple of Seikenji or Kiyomi-
dera at Okitsu, belonging to the
Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a
\'isit, partly for the sake of the
view, partly for the temple itself
and the temisle grounds, which
even the railway, though it cuts
through them, has not entirely
spoilt. The very plain altar in a
small shrine near the Uomlo — a
large hall paved Trt-ith tiles — contains
funeral ta])]ets of all the Shoguns
of the Tokugawa dynasty. In a
side temple are forty brilhantly
coloured tigiu'es. three-foiu-fhs life-
size, of Balcan — old. but restored in
limw-zav.
237
1881. They were, formerly kept in
a tea-house in the town, which
became a favoiirite resort, and
brought in a considerable revenue
to the priests. This, however,
moved the townspeople to jealousy
and fhssatisf action, for which reason
the images were removed to their
present site, where money can no
longer be made out of them. Two
stone praying-wheels stand in fi'ont
of their present shidne. In the
gi'ounds are 300 (formerly 500) stone
images of Bakan. The creeping
plum-trees {gicaryil-bai) in front of
the temple are said to have been
planted by leyasu's own hand.
Besides the temple proper, a suite
of rooms is shown, affording an
example of the best style of
Japanese domestic architecture.
Built in 1865 for the use of the
Shogun lemochi, they have of late
been sometimes occupied by the
Crown Prince.
[A detour of 6 or 7 hrs. to Kuno-
zan will afford the traveller a
real multum in purvo, — splenchd
views, sujierb temples, nearer
acquaintance with Japanese
town and country life off the
beaten track. — The plan is to
leave Yokohama by the first
train, alight at Okitsu, and
thence go by jinrikisha vvith
two men, rejoining the railway
at Shizuoka, where sleep. Sel-
keaji, described above, is first
visited ; thence through Ejiri,
one of those smaller Tokaidd
towns which the railway has
paralysed, and Shimizu, a neat
bustling seaport town ; and
then strikes inland to Tesslmji,
a riuned temple on a low hill
called Fudaraku-san, 4 <'ho in
height. Yamaoka Tetsntaro,
writing-master to the present
Emperor, collected funds for the
restoration of this place. Un-
fortunately the money was squ-
anderer] after his death, and
the temple is nothing ; but the
view is magnificent, recalling a
painting by Claude. At the
beholder's feet stretches a
gi'een carpet of rice-fields, with
the town of Shimizu and the
curious square enclosures in
the adjacent sea, used as fish-
preserves to supply the needs
of the inhabitants in stormy
weather. The two promon-
tories to the 1. are the Satta-
toge and the point near Kam-
bara, beyond which come Fuji,
Ashitaka, and the Hakone
range. The peninsula of
Izu extends the whole way
round from 1. to r., like a
gigantic scythe, forming the
Gulf of Suruga, while much
closer and smaller, making a
bay within a bay, stretches the
pine-clad promontory of Mio-
no-Matsubara, which is from
here seen to divide at the tip
into three points like claws.
Near Tesshuji stands another
temple called Ryugeji, noted in
the vicinity for its sofeisu
{Oycas revoluta) and prickly
pears, — the latter a great rarity
in Japan ; but the view, though
fine, is not comparable to that
from Tesshuji.
The way now leads back to
the sea and along the sandy
shore to the hamlet of Nekoya
(Inn, Ishibashi), at the foot of
Kuno-zan, one of a range of
hills only some 500 ft. high, but
fortress-like in steepness. Here
was the first buiial-place of the
gi'eat Shogun leyasn, and the
shrines here erected in his
honour were the originals of
which those at Nikkd are but
a more elaborate development.
Travellers who are unable to
go to Nikkd, can therefore
obtain an idea of what the
Nikko temples are like by visit-
ing Kuno-zan. According to
some, leyasu's body still lies
here, only a single hair or
other minute portion having
been transported to Nikko.
The ascent to the temples is by
a steep zigzag path cut in the
238
lioute'1'6. — Tlie Tokaidd.
living rock. A guide must be
applied for and a small fee paid
at the shamusho, or temple of-
fice, near the top on the 1. The
view over the sea from this
temple office is glorious ; but
a still better one is obtained
from a venerable gnarled pine-
tree called the mono-mi no ma-
tsii. The headlands seen hence
are T6me-no-saki, Wada-no-mi-
saki, and Omae-zald. The well
on the r. of the path at this
level is said to be 108 ft. deep,
and to have been dug by a
sixteenth centiuy warrior, Ya-
mamoto Kansidte, the lame and
one-eyed retainer of Takeda
Shingen, lord of Koshu. The
temples, though " purified " to
a certain extent by the pro-
Shintd party thirty years ago,
retain their Buddhist orna-
mentation. The wooden effigy
of a sacred horse 1. is b)-^ Hidari
Jingoro. Up a flight of steps
hence, we come r. to the drum-
tower, and 1. to the site of the
five-storied pagoda, which was
removed by the " pmifiers " as
savouring too much of Bud-
dhism. Alaove these again, are r.
the kayura stage, the treasure-
house or "godown," and a build-
ing formerly dedicated to the
Buddhist god Yakushi, and now
to the Shintd god Oyamagui-no-
Mikoto ; while 1. is the building
where the sacred offerings are
prepared. The oratory proper
is painted red on the outside,
black and gold Avithin. Kound
the interior hang pictures of
the Thiiiy-six Poetical Genius-
es, and there is an elaborate
bordering of phoenixes and
chrysanthemums. A final flight
of steps behind the oratory
leads up to the stone tomb,
which is an octagonal monohth.
The annual festival at Kuno-
zan is held on the 17th April.
8er\ices are also celebrated on
the 17th of the other months.
The temple treasures are ex-
posed to ^iew in October, when
the anntial airing takes place.
On leaving Kuno-zan, the road
first foUows the sea-shore, and
then turns inland, reaching
Shizuoka in about 1 hr.]
Between Okitsu and Ejiri there is
a view of Mio-no-Matsubara. After
leaving Ejiri, the line tiirns inland
to avoid the Kuno-zan hills.
Shizuoka (Hotels, Daito-kwan,
Europ. style ; Kiyo-kwan), former-
ly called Siimpv, is the capital of
the prefecture of the same name
and of the province of Sm-uga. It
is a clean, airy, flourishing city,
noted for its manufactures of cheap
lacquer-Tv^are, delicate basket-v.ork
in curious and beautiful shapes,
and fine bamboo plaiting used to
cover egg-shell porcelain cups,
which are brought fi'om the prov-
ince of Mino. The tea produced at
Ashikubo, a vill. 2 ri thstant, ranks
second only to that of Uji. In fact,
the heights in all this district and
on to Fujieda are covered ^rith the
low, thick tea-bush.
Historically, Shizucka is remarkable
chiefly as the place where leyasu chose
to spend the evening of his life in learned
leisure, leaving his son Hidetada to carry
on the government at Yedo. Here for the
first time many of the treasures of Japa-
nese literature, which had hitherto exist-
ed only in manuscript, were put into
print. Shizuoka was, until 1897, the place
of retirement of the ex-Shogun Keiki,
who lived there in seclusion as a private
gentleman. He now, in bis old age,
occupies a high position at Court in
Tokyo.
An afternoon is enough for the
sights of Shizuoka, which consist of
the ruins of the former castle, and
of two fine temples, — Rinzaiji and
Sengen. AH that remains of the
castle are the decaying walls and
the moats. Within its enclosure
stands the Piefectme, a hideous
red biick bmlding. The Court-
house and Normal School are
outside the moat, on the S. side.
The Buddhist temple of Rinzaiji
Kes 8 chd from the city, at the
foot of a range of wooded hUls.
It belongs to the Zen sect, and is
Shizuoha.
239
noleu for its connectiou with le-
yasTi and for the number of objects
of art which it contains. The little
room of only 4i mats (yo-jd-han),
where leyasu learnt to MTite, is
shown, as are several scrolls,
screens, pieces of lacquer and
porcelain, etc., presented by him
to the temple in his old age. There
is also a threadbare, but still beauti-
ful, ■piece of embroidery presented
by the Miliado Go-Nara (A. D. 1527-
1557), and a number of kaicemono
by Kano 3'Iasanobu, Chin Nam pin,
and other old masters. In the
Hondo is a painted statue of Ima-
gawa Yoshimoto, younger brother
to Ujiteru, founder of the temple.
Another painted statue represents
the second abbot. The Honzon is
Amida, a black image with a gold
background. In a side shrine is
preserved the wooden image of
Marishi-ten, which leyasu — who, for
aU his pohtical and military genius,
was not free from the superstitions
of Ids time — used constantly to
cany about with him as a charm.
The visitor will also be shown a
gilt revolving bookcase shaped like
a pagoda and containing a com-
plete set of the edition of the Bud-
dhist scriptures, which were printed
for the first time with movable
types in 1888. The 1st and 2nd
October are the great festival days
at Einzaiji.
The Temple of Sengen, which
stands at the N. limit of the town,
was built under the superinten-
dence of Okubo Hikozaemon, a
personage famous in Japanese his-
tory as the minister and confidant
of the Shogun lemitsu. Though
chiefly dedicated to the worship of
Kono - hana - saku - ya - hime, alias
Sengen, the beautiful Shinto god-
dess of Mount Fuji, it is construct-
ed and decorated in the most or-
nate Buddhistic style. Specially
noteworthy are the wood-carvings.
The grounds now serve as a public
park. Entering by two handsome-
ly carved wooden gates, the visitor
finds himself in a large quad-
rangle, in the centre of which is a
stage formerly reserved for the per-
formance of the ka<iura dance by
young girls. The interior of the
oratory proper {go haiden no obiro-
ma) is a haU 63 ft. by 33 ft., with
large solid pillars of keyaki lacquer-
ed red, two of which "form at the
saiue time the corner piUars of the
upper storey. The two central
compartments of the ceiling are
painted with dragons, — one called
the Shi-hfi no Byo, or " Dragon of
the Four Quarters," because, what-
ever point of the compass it be
vieM-ed from, it seems to glare
down directly at the spectator ; the
other, Hap-po no Ryo, or " Dragon
of the Eight Quarters," because its
glance is directed to every point of
the circle. The former of these is
by Yiisen Hogan, the latter by
Kand Motonobu. Eight other com-
partments contain pictures of
angels playing on musical instru-
ments, also by painters of the Kano
school. Two broad flights of steps
behind the oratory lead up to a
building containing two shiines,
one^ sacred to Sengen, the other
to Onamuji. The two shrines are
connected by a room in which a
nightly watch was formerly kept
by retainers of the Tokugawa
family. Dcj not fail to notice the
carvings on tlie gates leading to
these twin shrines. One set
represents a lioness with her cub,
and on a second panel her royal
mate, — both sm-rounded by peonies,
the king of flowers, as the Hon is
the king of beasts. Another set
represents hawks Avith pine-trees.
Round the shiine itself are car\ings
of the pine-tree, bamboo, and
plum-blossom by Hidari Jingoro.
The crest of a fan of feathers is
that of the goblin (tengu), who was
god of Mount Oyama and father of
the goddess of Fuji.
Near the main quadrangle is a
smaller building called Sd.sha,
formerly dedicated to Marishi-ten
and now to the Shinto god Yachi-
hoko-no-kami. It is the newest of
240
Route 2'^. — The Tokaido.
all the buildings, and the decora-
tions are therefore in better repair.
In the curved roof of the porch is
a ^ery fine phoenix cut out of a
single block of wood ; and all round,
above the architrave, runs a series
of dehcate little gi'oups representing
the Twenty-fon.r Paragons of Fihal
Piety.
The stone lanterns in the grounds
were presented by various Dai-
myds and Ildtamoto. — Beyond the
Maiishi-ten temple, a broad flight
of 105 stone steps leads up to the
Oku-no-iii, which affords a good
view of the town.
The best excursion f roni Shizuoka
is that by jimikisha to Kuno-zan
(3 ri) ; see pp. 237-8.
From Shizuoka to Nagoya, a
distance of 115 miles, the Une for
the most part ceases to skirt the
sea, and runs over a flat coiintry
with low hills on one or both sides,
or else among rice-tields. Spurs of
the central range forming the back-
bone of the country are, however,
often seen away to the r. Just
outside Shizuoka we cross the Abe-
kawa close to its mouth, and obtain
a pretty ghmpse of the sea vnth
the small promontory of Kuno-
zan and the large peninsula of
Izu, before passing through two long
tunnels. The Oigawa is crossed
after passing the station of Shimada.
Like Jill the rivers on this coast,
the Oigawa has a bed out of
proportion to the small volume of
water that generally flows down
it, the bed being nearly a mile
broad, while the actual stream is
not more than some 50 yds.
except in flood-time.
_ In pre-raihvay days, the passage of the
Oigawa was one of the most exciting por-
tions of the journey along the Tokaido.
No ferry-boats could be used on account
of the swiftness of the current, and trav-
ellers were carried across on small hand-
platforms called rendai. The naked
coolies who bore these aloft always chose
the deepest parts of the stream, in order
to impress their fares with a sense of the
peril of the undertaking, and thus obtain
the largest possible gratuity. This inci-
dent of old-fashioned travel is ]iourtrayed
in almost every set of coloured prints
representing the " I'ifty-three Stages of
the Tokaido " (Tokaido Go-jii-san Tsugi).
Kakegawa [Inn, Kyfigetsu-ro)
manufactures kuzu-ori, a sort of
linen cloth woven from gi'ass.
[The Temple of Akiha hes
12 ri inland, of which the
first 6 ri as far as the vill.
of Mikura are practicable for
jinrikishas. The visitor may
conveniently sleep at SakashUa
some 4J ri further on, at the
base of the mountain on which
the temple stands. The ascent,
locally computed at 50 cho, is
probably less.
The temple of Akiha enjoys a wide
reputation for sanctity, and is visit-
ed annually by crowds of pilgrims.
Unfortunately all the beautiful Bud-
dhist buildiugn in which Kwan-
uon and other deities had for
centuries been invoked, were de-
stroyed by fire on the occasion of
the great yearly festival in 1875, and
the i)resent temple was afterwards
erected in the bare, uninteresting
style of Pure Shinto. It has been
dedicated to Kagutsuchi-no-Mikoto,
who is regarded by some as the God
of Fire, but is more correctly ex-
plained as the God of Summer
Heat.]
Before reaching Hamamatsu the
train crosses the Teniyu-gawa,
whose celebrated Rapids form the
subject of Pioute 30. The Tenryti
is the first of the three great
rivers from wMch the province of
Mikawa, here traversed by the rail-
way line, takes its name. The
other two are the Ogawa (also call-
ed Oya-gawa or Ohiragawa) on
this side of the station of Okazaki,
and the Yahagi-gawa just beyond
the same station.
Naka-izunii {Inn, at station).
Hamamatsu (Inns, *Ogome-ya,
* Hana-ya, at station) is the only
place between Shizuoka and Nagoya
where the journey can be broken
with, any comfort. The town de-
rives a peculiar appearance from
the use of long projecting eaves,
which cause the houses to look as
if about to tumble forward into the
street. Just beyond
From Maisaka to Nagoya.
241
Maisaka, we reach a large and
beautiful lagoon [Hamann no Mizu-
umi), which is crossed near its
mouth on a long series of dykes
and bridges, whence the breakers
of the Pacific can be seen. On the
other side stretches far away the
deeply indented shore-hne clad A\-ith
pine-trees. The boats sailing over
the smooth water, and the moun-
tains rising range beyond range in
the background, combine to form a
delightful picture.
Thoush called a lake in Japanese, this
lagoon has now a narrow entrance about
600 yds. across, formed in the year li99,
when an earthquake broke down the
sand-spit that had previously separated
the fresh water from the sea. The ijro-
vince of Totomi derives its name from
this lake, which was called Totomi, a
corruption of To-tsu-awa-unii. "the distant
foaming sea, "in contradistinction to Lake
Biwa, named rhika-tsu-awa-wni, "the
near foaming sea,'l which gave its name
to the province of Omi.
Between Futagawa and Toyo-
hashi {Imi, Tsuboya, at station),
a tine bronze image of Kwanuon,
dating fi-om the year 17G5, is seen
perched r. on a pinnacle of rock.
It is called Iimya no Kicannon, and
formerly possessed eyes of pure
gold, but only one remains.
[In the town ofToyokawa, 5 m.
distant from Toyohashi by a
branch line, stands a celebrat-
ed Temple of Inari. It is apt
now to be neglected excejjt on
festival days, namely, the 22nd
of each month. The annual
festival is held on the 21st —
22nd October.]
Between Goyu, where the line
again touches the picturesque
shore, and Kamaqori there are de-
lightful peeps of the sea, of the
islets in the Bay of Toyohashi, of
the hilly tip of the peninsula of
Atsumi, and of the mountains of
the provinces of Shima, Ise, and
Iga beyond. After
Okazaki, noted in history as
the birthplace of the great Sh5-
gun leyasu, comes a dull bit, flat
and with rice-fields on either hand.
or sand-hillocks and pine scrab ;
but from Otaka the fine range
separating the provinces of Ise and
Omi rises ahead, and is kept in
view all the way to
Atsuta [Inn, Kikyo-ya, near
station), which is practically a
suburb of Nagoya. It i)ossesses a
fine set of Shinto temples, fi'om
which it derives its alternative name
of Miya. These temples, originally
founded in A.D. 686, were restored
in 1893 in Pure Shintd style, after
the j)attern of the temples of Ise.
Persons unable to spare time for
visiting the latter may therefore, by
stopping over a train at Atsuta, gain
some notion of what Ise is like,
though here, as at Ise itself, no one
is allowed to go inside. The official
name of the temples is Atsuta Dai-
jingu. Notice the splendid camphor-
trees in the grounds. The jiniikisha
ride on to the next station, Nagoya,
where the journey w^ould probably
be broken in any case, is only
about 4 miles.
The gods worshipped at Atsuta are the
Sun-Goddess Amateiasu, her brother Susa-
no-o, Prince Yamato-take (see p. 87), the
latter's wifeMiyazu-hime, and her brother
Take-ino-tane. But the object really most
venerated,— indeed, the raison d'etre of the
temples and consequently of the town, —
is the famous sword called Kusa-nagi no
Tsurugi. one of the three antique objects
which form the Imperial regalia of Japan,
the other two being a mii'ror and a jewel.
This sword (so legend goes) v/as found by
Susa-no-o in the tail of an eight-headed
serpent, which he intoxicated with sake
aud then slew. Having been brought
from heaven many centuries later by the
first ancestor of the Mikados. it came into
the possession of Yamato-take and assist-
ed that prince in the conquest of Eastern
Japan. This treasure is never shown, but
a great festival is held in its honour on
the 21st June. The complete legend of
the sword Kma-nagl will be found in
the Kqjiki (Trans, of the Asiatic Soc.
of Japan, "Vol. X., Supplement. Sect
XVIII., LXXXII., and LXXXIII.). At
some little distance from the chief temple
stands another dedicated to a scarcely less
sacred sword called Ya-tsurugi. The
legend concerning it is kept as an
esoteric secret.
Kagoya {Inns, *Nagoya Hotel,
Shinachu, both near station
242
Route 'lo. — T}i(' Tokaido.
foreign ; Shnldn-ro ; Tea-house,
Toyo-kwan, for entertainments in
native style).
This floarisliiiig corumercial city, the
lurgpst on the Tokaido, capital of the
lirovince of Owari aud of the prefecture
of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the
Baimyos of Owari, a family closely
allied" to that of the Tokugawa Shogtins,
the founder of the house of Owari having
been a son of leyasu. Their fief was
rated at 500,000 koku of rice, and the Owa-
ri's ranked as one c .f the ■ ' Three August
Families" (Go San-ke), entitled to furnish
a successor to the Shogun's throne in
default of an heir. Their castle, which is
still one of the wonders of Japan, was
erected in 1610 by twenty great feudal
lords, to serve as the residence of leyasu's
son. Like other Japanese castles, it is a
wooden building standing on cyclopean
walls. The roofs of the keep are all cop-
pered, and its massive gates are cased
with iron. Curiously enough, this strong
castle has never seen war. In the early
years of the present riffime it was hand-
ed over to the Military Department ;
and the beautiful decorations of the
Daimyo's dwelling apartments suffered,
a.8 did so much else in Japan, from the
almost incredible vandalism and vulgar
stupidity of that period,— common
soldiers, or officers as ignorant as they,
being allowed to deface the priceless wall-
paintings of a Tan-yii, a Motonobu, and a
Matahei . This desecration is now happily
put an end to, though much irreparable
damage has been done. The castle has
been taken over by the Imperial House-
hold Department, to be preserved as a
monument of historic interest. The two
golden dolphins {kin no sharhi-hoko), which
can be seen glittering all over the city
from the top of the ftve storied don.ion
[tensAu), were made in 1610 at the cost of
the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomasa,
who also built the keep. One of them
was sent to the Vienna Exhibition of
1873, and on its way back was wrecked in
the Messageries Mai itimes Steamer "Nil."
Having been recovered with great diflS-
culty. it was finally restored to its original
position, much to the satisfaction of the
citizens. The golden dolphins measiu-e
8.7 ft. in height and are valued at £ 36,000
sterling.
Nagoya is noted for its manufac-
ixne of porcelain, cloisonne, and
fans. The principal dealers are :
Porcelain. — Saji Haruzo, Takito,
Matsumura. At the latter the process
of maniifactnre can be inspected.
Cloisonne. — Honda, Take-uchi.
Process of inamifactnre shown to
■visitors.
Silk.—T{i]si.
There are many lesser but good
shops for all the above articles ;
also seTeral bazaars (kwankoha) near
the Post-Office for articles of general
ntihty. Several cotton-mills have
been started of late years, and the
embroidering of handkerchiefs has
taken a considerable place among
the local industries.
Theatres. — Misono-za, Suehiro-za.
The Museum contains a collection
of the various manufactures of the
prefecture, together with art ob-
jects.
It may be worth spending a day
at Nagoya to see a flourishing pro-
vincial town. Though the Castle
is now inaccessible except by
special permit obtainable through
the foreign legations, all may in-
spect Nagoya's second greatest
sight, — the Higashi Hongwanji
temples, — the Museum, and the
minor temples mentioned below.
The evening may be agreeably
whiled away by going the round of
the bazaars and theatres.
The Castle ( Shiro).— The si>ace
between the inner and outer moats,
now containing extensive ban-acks
and parade-groiinds, was formerly
occupied by the Daimyo's mansion
and by quarters for his retainers,
offices ciATil and military, etc. All
this arrangement and the wreck
that remains of the garden are well
seen from the top of the castle.
Passing into the inner enclosure
over a moat now dry and used to
keep tame deer in, the traveller is
first shown through the Apartments,
which offer a beautiful specimen
of aristocratic decoration. The
sliding screens (fiisnma) between
the rooms, the alcoves (toko-
noma), and the wooden doors sepa-
rating the different sets of Apart-
ments are all adorned with paint-
ings of flowers, birds, etc., chiefly
by artists of the Kano school, such
as Eishin, Motonobu, and Tan-yu.
One room has cherry-blossoms and
pheasants by Tosa-no-Mitsuoki.
Another — the most attractive of all
Nagoya.
243
— has multitudinous scenes of
popular life by Iwasa Matahei. One
specially gorgeous apartment, dec-
orated by Tan-yH with ideal
Chinese scenery, was reserved for
the use of the Shogun when he
came to visit the Daimyo his kins-
man. Observe the difference of
height between the inner and outer
portion of this room, — the former
(jodan) being for the Shogun him-
self, the latter {gedan) for those in-
ferior persons who were graciously
admitted to an audience. The
ramma (ventilating panels) of this
room have exquisitely faithful carv-
ings of a crane and tortoise and
of a cock perched on a drum, by
Eidari Jingoro, who also carved the
flowers and birds in certain other
rooms. Leaving these apartments,
one comes to a much humbler
suite brought from Nobunaga's
castle at Kiyosti, and is then led
into the donjon or keep, a gloomy
five-storied building, all of stone
without, but furnished with wooden
staircases within._ The well at the
bottom, called Ogon-sui, or " the
Golden Water," was dug by Kat5
Kiyomasa. The fifth storey com-
mands an extensive view, — the town
of course, the sea, the immense
plain of Owari and Mino laid out
in rice-fields, and, bounding the
horizon, the mountains of Ise, Iga,
Omi, Echizen, Hida, Shinshu, and
Tdtomi.
No fee is accepted by the custo-
dian of the Castle.
Higashi Hongwanji.
This wonderful Buddhist temple, where
exterior and interior are both equally-
grand, dates in its actual shape from
the beginning of the I9th century. In
medisBval times a fortress occupied its
site, whence the castle-lilie walls that still
surround the enclosure.
The magnificent two-storied
double-roofed gate-house has three
portals decorated with floral ara-
besques in relief on the lintel and
posts ; and the gates have scrolls and
open-work diapers, with sohd bronze
plates binding the frame-work to-
gether, the whole in charming style
recalling Italian Kenaissance work.
On the further side of a spacious
court rises the lofty temple, which
looks two-storied, — an effect pro-
duced by the exterior colonnade
having a roof lower than that of
the main structure. The interior
measures 120 ft. in length by 108
ft. in depth, and is divided longi-
tudinally into three parts, that in
front being for the use of ordinary
worshippers, the centre for the con-
gregation on special occasions, and
the innermost being the naijin, or
chancel. This latter is divided into
three compartments, the central
one being occupied by the shumi-
dan, a platform on wMch stands a
handsome gilt shrine holding an
image of Amida about 4 ft. high.
Both the shumi-dan and the table
in front are enriched with small
painted carvings that produce a
glorious effect. L. of the chief shrine
is a smaller one, containing a por-
trait of the founder of the sect,
taken from the effigy in the metro-
poUtan temple at Kydto. In the
ramma along the front of the naijin
are gUt open-work carvings of
angels, with gilt carvings of the
peacock and phoenix in the kaeru-
mata above. The heavy beams
of the ceihng are supported by
excellent carvings of lotus-flowers
and leaves. In some of the kaeru-
maia over these beams are spirit-
ed carvings of conventional lions.
The ceiling itself is unpainted,
and divided into coffers about 3 ft.
square. The compartments r. and
1. of the altar have gilt coppered
ceilings. In the kaeru-mnta of the
external colonnade are well-con-
ceived groups of supernatural be-
ings, — Oama Sennin with his frog,
Kinko riding on the carp, Koan on
the bushy-tailed tortoise, O-Shiko
riding on his crane, Ka-Shinjin ad-
ministering medicine to the dra-
gon, the umbrella miraculously fly-
ing back to Shoichi through the
air, and two carrying baskets of
fish. The series is continued round
244
Route 23 —The Tokaido.
the sides by the crane, the lion, and
the flying dragon. The building
to the r. is a large reception hall
( Taimeajo). used by the Lord Abbot
©n great occasions. As usual in
Hongwanji temples, there is another
building called the Jiki-do,
connected •with the main building
by a gallery resembUng a bridge.
Though much less elaborate than
the main altar, the altar of the
Jiki-d5 is yet a fine blaze of gold.
E,. and 1. of the central image of
Amida, are some charming gold
sliding screens representing moun-
tain scenery. The Apartments of
the temple contain several kake-
monos and other works of art, which
are, however, generally stowed
away in a godown. In fi-ont of the
main gate is an avenue of di-ooping
chen'y-trees [shidare-zakura), — a
vei-y pretty sight in April. The
odd-looMng row of builchngs paral-
lel to the aveniTe is a set of lodgings
attached to the temple, where
worshippers fi'om the country are
housed.
Go-hyaku Kakan (prox)erly
Dairyuji). Though this ugly little
temple on the N. E. hmit of the
city is nothing in itself, it well
deserves a visit for the sake of the
gallery behind (application to the
custodian necessary), where are
kept five hundred images of Bud-
dha's chief disciples, mostly about
2 ft. high, all brightly painted, and
all different. Some are smiling,
some are solemn, some are fierce,
some stupid-looking, some have a
supercilious air, some an air of
smug self-satisfaction, some few
are lying down, others are praying,
others again have their arms ex-
tended in the attitude of benedic-
tion, one has three eyes, one holds
a tiger-cub in his arms, one ■with a
gold halo bestrides a peacock with
outstretched wings, others ride on
horses, elephants, phoenixes, and so
on, almost ad infinitum.. No wonder
the Japanese say that among the
Five Hundred i^kan, every spec-
tator can find the likeness of his
own father by dint of a little
searching.
The images are said to date from the
beginning of the 18th century. A keen
eye will detect among the maas some
much better carved than the rest. They
are chocolate-coloured, and stand a good
way on in the collection, — one of them
recumbent, a second leaning on his hand,
a third clasping his knee, etc. These are
genuinely bj' Tametaka, an artist to whom
the whole collection is incorrectly at-
tributed. This sculptor is best-known as
a carver of nefsule. His spirited, life-like
figures tell out among the grotes'^tieness
of the rest.
The remaining temples of Nagoya
are much inferior in interest.
Mkokuji, the Nishi Hongicauji, and
Naivxtsv.-defra may be mentioned.
Osu Kicannon, a temple sacred to
the Goddess of Mercy, is remarkable
chiefly as the centre round which
many places of popular amusement,
such as peep-shows, etc. have gath-
ered. A gi'eat rehgious procession is
held yearly on the 4th day of the 4th
moon, old style (some tuue in May),
when each of the twelve principal
wards of the city furnishes a car
illustrating some subject, historical
or legendary.
Nagoya, Uke most other large
tOM'ns, possesses a number of new,
uninteresting buildings in the style
or no style known in the Japan of
to-day as " foreign." Siieh are the
Prefectural Office, the Post and
Telegraph Office, the Hospital, the
Normal School, the Court-houses,
etc. The hiige iiepper-castei' top of
the Nagoya Hotel towers above all
the rest.
[The only exciu'sion to be recom-
mended in the neighbourhood
of Nagoya is to the potteries
of Seto, 13|^m. tlistant by a
new line of railway called the
Om-o Tetsudo, ^vhich continues
on to Tajimi mentioned below.
The province of Owari, of which
Nagoya is the capital, and the adja-
cent province of Mino, have for many
ages been flourishing centres of the
porcelain industry, the most famous
seat of which is at Seto, where Kato
Shlrozaemon, the first great master
Potteries of Seto. Gifu. Wate)fall of Yord. 245
of Japanese ceramic art, set up his
Mln about the year 1230 on his return
from six years of diligent study in
China. Thenceforth Seto became
the head-quarters of the manufacture
of dainty little jars, ewers, and other
utensils for the tea ceremonies {cha-
no-yu), so that the word seto-mono,
literally "Seto things," has come to
be employed in Japanese as a genetic
name for aU pottery and porcelain,
much as the word china is used in
English. Seto has remained the
chief porcelain manufactory of Japan.
Many of the pieces now turned out—
es-pecially the monster blue-and-
white vases— are intended only for
the foreign market. Fine porcelain,
is produced at Tcjimi, some 1 m.
beyond Seto. Many of the small
villages in the near vicinity of Nago-
ya are devoted to the production
of minor kinds of porcelain and
pottery.]
From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the
railway line deserts the old Tokai-
do, and though called the Tokaido
EallTvay, really follows the Naka-
sendo. Qiiitting Nagoya, the train
wends on through more and ever
more rice-fields, -^-ith blue moun-
tains far ahead, somewhat to the 1.
They are the mountains dividing
the provinces of Owari and Mino
from those of Omi and Ise. Four-
teen miles out of Nagoya, the line
crosses the Kisogawa, the river
whose upper course forms so beau-
tiful a i)ortion of the Nakasendo,
(see p. 248), and which is pictur-
esque even here near its mouth.
Gifu {Lms, *Tamai-ya, Tsuno-
kuni-ya, both 12 cho from station)
is an important place, and capital
of the prefecture of the same name,
which includes the two provinces
of Mino and Hida. A conical hill
named Kinkwa-zan, N. E. of the
town, was the site of a castle built
by the great warrior Ota Nobunaga.
The view hence of Ontake and the
^linshu Koma-ga-take, with the
ffida range, well repays the climb.
The traveller will also be taken to
maha-yama, near the centre of the
town, where stands a Shinto shrine.
Eaw silk and the silk of the wild
silkworm [yama-mai) are produced
in large quantities in the neighbour-
hood, most of it being woven into
crape. In this the glittering threads
of the wild silk, which takes the
dyes in a less degree than that of the
ordinary silkworm, are introduced
to form the pattern. The mon-
chirimen woven in this manner is a
favourite fabric. Gifu is also noted
for its paper-lanterns (said to be
the best in Japan) and other paper
wares, the Mino-gami being univer-
sally prized.
In the summer-time it may be
worth staying over a night at Gifu,
in order to see an extremely curious
method of fishing -^ith the help of
cormorants (u-kai) on the river
Nagara. Comfortable house-boats
may be engaged for this pm-pose.
The traveller is referred for a full
description to the article entitled
" Cormorant-fishing " in Things Ja-
panese ; but the fishermen do not go
out^on moonlight nights. On nearing
Ogaki (Inns, Kyomaru-ya at the
station; Tama-ya), the castle of
the former Daimyo, with one turret
in fairly good preservation, is seen
1. of the line. Far away to the r.,
Haku-san rears its head over the
nearer range.
[Not to the hunied tourist, but to
the leisurely lover of Old Japan
and her ways, a day or two at
Yoro, in this neighbourhood,
is much to be recommended.
The plan is to alight at OgaM
station, there take ajinriMsha
over the plain through the vilL
of Takada (2^ ri) to Ishibata
(10 cho more), and thence walk
the last J ri to Yoro, which
stands on the flank of the
mountain ridge of the same
name. One may return either
the way one came, or else to
Tarui station, about the same
distance, or to Seki-ga-hara,
nearly 1 ri longer. Seki-ga-
hara is the best station from
which to approach Yoro, when
coming fi-om the Kyoto direc-
tion.
The raison d'itre of the little
village of Yoro (Inns, *Kiku-
246
Boute 23.— The Tokaido.
sui-r5, Murakami), of the gar-
dens, and of the line Kairaku-
sha club-house dating from
1880, is the celebrated water-
fall called Yoro-cja-taki.
This name, which may be translat-
ed as "the Cascade of Filial Piety," is
explained by the following legend.
In A D. 717 there lived a wood-cutter
so filial in his conduct that he was
wont to expend the proceeds of his
toU on sake for his aged father,
whose great passion was strong
drink. As a reward for such exem-
plary piety, there was one day re-
vealed to him the existence of this
cascade, which consists (or at least
consisted at that time) of pure and
excellent sake. The legend forms a
favourite subject of Japanese art.
Both the Kikusui-r5 inn and
the Kaii-akusha club command
lovely views of the broad sweep
of the Mino plain, with Ontake,
Ena-san, and other mountains
beyond. Very charming, too,
is the thoroughly Japanese ar-
rangement of the park, and
the walk up to the waterfall
through 5 cho of cherry and ma-
ple trees. The fall itself, which
is 105 ft. high, is embosomed
in maple-trees. The rock on
either side contains fossil
ferns, known as .shinobu-seki.
Yoro is a cool place in sum-
mer. In -wdnter the Shimo-ike,
a large mere a little over 1 ri
distant in a S.E. direction,
swarms with wild-geese, duck,
etc., which are taken by means
of nets, and at all seasons with
eels, carp, and perch, which
help to supply the Kyoto fish-
market. The distance to the
summit of Yoro-yama is locally
estimated at 2 ri. A most ex-
tensive view rewards the
climber.— While in this neigh-
bourhood, one might visit the
marble quarries of Akasaka-
yama, also called _Kinsh5-zan,
1 ri 10 cho from OgaM in the
direction of Tarui, and the
celebrated temple of Tanigumi-
dera, some 7 ri to the N. of
Taxui by a jinriMsha road.
This temple is the thirty-third
and last of the Places Sacred
to the Goddess Kwannon (see
Ute. 37), and here accordingly
the pUgi-ims deposit their pU-
grim shirts (oizuru). It can
scarcely be recommended ex-
cept on festival days, viz. the
17th July which is the yearly
festival, and the 18th of aU
the other months.]
There are inferior inns at the
small stations of Tarui and
Seki-g-a-liara.
Seki-ga-hara takes its name, which
means literally "Moor of the Barrier,"
from the barrier of Fuwa {Fuwa no seki)
established at this spot in A. D. 673 by the
Emperor Temmu, it having been a Japa-
nese custom from the earliest period down
to the beginning of the present reign to
hamper free communication throughout
the country by means of barriers near the
capital, which none might pass without
a special permit. Doubtless the original
object was to guard against incursions of
the barbarians of the East and North.
Seki-ga-hara is celebrated in Japanese
history as the scene of a decisive battle
fought in the year ICuO between leyasu
and Hideyori, son of the great Hideyoshi,
in which leyasu triumphed. His camp
at Seki-ga-hara was on a level piece of
ground among the hills on the 1. side of
the road, near a hamlet called Kogami-
mura.
Here the journey across the plain
terminates, and the Tokaido Rail-
way again enters diversified scen-
ery, as it plunges among the hills
that enclose beautiful Lake Biwa.
Between Seki-ga-hara and Xaga-
oka the gradient is steep, the line
being led up a naiTow valley open-
ing out on a small plain devoted to
the cultivation of the mulberry-
tree. The tall bare mountain
frequently seen looming up to the
r. during this portion of the joiu-ney
is Ihuki-yama (about 4,300 ft.), one
of the " Seven High Mountains " of
Central Japan, and noted in the
early Japanese pharmacopoeia for
its wealth of medicinal plants.
The " Seven High Mountains " are Hiei-
zan, Hirayama in Omi, Ibuki-yama, Kim-
pu-zan (or Omine) near yoshino, Atago-
yama in Yamashiro, Tonomine, and Kazu-
raki-yama.
From Maihara to Nishi-no-miya.
247
Passing among pine-clad hills,
we reach
Maibara {Inn, Izutsu-ya at the
station), whence all the way on to
Baba, the station for the important
town of Otsn, the line runs along
the basin of Lake Biwa, though
unfortunately not near enough
to the shore to allow of many
glimpses of the lalvc being ob-
tained. The whole scenery is,
however, pretty, — and pretty in a
way of its own. Quite close, to
the 1., is the range of hills forming
the southern rim of the Lake Biwa
basin ; far away to the r., in the dim
distance, are the blue mountains
enclosing the lake on the N., while
immediately on either side of the
line is a fair, cultivated plain. At
Hikone [Inns, *Raku-raku-tei,
Matsu-ya), the former Daimyo's
castle is seen r. on a wooded hill.
For the fish-traps to be observed
in the lake, see the small type near
the beginning of Route 40. Before
reaching Notogawa, the rivers Seri-
gawa, Inukami-gawa, and Echigawa
are crossed. The cone of Mikami-
yama, also called IVIulcade-yama,
shaped like Fuji but thickly wood-
ed, begins to j)eep up from behind
a nearer range of hills before arriv-
ing at
Kusatsu. Between this place
and Baba, the most striking view
on the whole Tokaido W. of Shizu-
oka is obtained on crossing the
long bridge that spans the Seta-
gawa (Seta no JS'aga-hashi), where
the lake opens out beautifully for a
few minutes. From
Saba or Otsu (Inn, Minarai-tei,
foreign style), the line passes
through a tunnel under Osaka-
yama (nothing to do with the city
of Osaka), before ru.nning into the
small station of Otani, where it
emerges on a narrow valley. The
hills are covered with that thick
growth of pine-trees which charac-
terises all the country round about
Kyofo.
[For further details concerning
the portion of the Tokaido
Route lying between Maibara
and Otani, see Route 40.]
The train then passes through
the stations of Yarnashina and Inari.
Over 11,000 pilgrims alight at this
latter place on the occasion of the
yearly festival of the great Shinto
temple of Liari, for which see Route
35. The train then enters the old
capital,
Kyoto, fully described in Route
35, after which it crosses a wide
plain, and passes through several
minor stations before reaching the
great commercial town of
Osaka, described in Route 34.
From Osaka onwards, the hills in
the distance to the r. begin to draw
in, the broad fruitful plain rapidly
contracts until it becomes a mere
strip fringing the sea-shore, and at
the station of
Nishi-no-miya, there begins
to rise r. the screen of somewhat
barren hills that help to give Kobe
its good climate by protecting that
part of the coast from wintry
blasts. The high land seen in the
distance across the water is not, as
might be supposed, an island, but
a portion of the pro-vLnoe of Izuml.
At Nishi-no-miya stands a small
but famous Temple of Ebisu, one of
the seven gods of Luck, to which
immense crowds of worshippers
flock on the First Day of the Horse
(Hatsu-uma) of the First Moon, old
style, — generally some day in
February. This part of the country
is one of the chief centres of the
sake manufacture. The three
tunnels passed through on this
section of the journey are remark-
able, as going under river-beds.
O^ing to the proximity of the
neighbouring mountains to the sea,
quantities of sand and stones are
swept down whenever the streams
are swollen by rain. As a con-
sequence of this, the liver-beds
tend constantly to raise themselves
more and more above the general
248
Eoute 24. — The Nakasendo.
level of the country, which they
traverse like dykes. Occasionally
of course a dyke breaks down, and
then ensues an inundation with
attendant loss of life and property.
Soon after passing through Sumi-
yoshi, — an insignificant place not to
be confounded with the well-known
Sumiyoshi near Sakai, — the train
runs in to
Sannoraiya, and the long jour-
ney is at an end, Sannomiya being
the station for the foreign settle-
meni of Kobe. To go on one
station further, to what is ofificially
called
Kobe, would caiTy the traveller
past his destination into the native
town. It must therefore be dis-
tinctly borne in mind that, if bound
for Kobe, one must book only as
far as Sannomiya.
[For Kobe and neighbourhood,
see Route 33.]
ROUTE 24.
The Nakasendo.
Itirmrary of the Nakasendo from
Oifu to Oya.
GIFU to :— Ri Cho 31.
Unuma 4 31 llf
Ota 2 10 5J
Mitake 3 4 7i
Shizuki 2 — 5
Hambara 2 11 5|
Kamado 25 If
Takeori 1 30 4^
Oi 1 20 31
Nakatsu-gawa 2 24 6 J
Ochiai 17 3
Azuma 4 n 10
Midono 1 28 4^
Nojiri 2 11 5f
Suwara 1 29 4ri
Agematsu 3 7 74
FUKUSHIMA 2 11 5|
]VIiyanokoshi 2 11 5f
Yabuhara 1 35 4^
Narai 1 12 3^
Niegawa 1 29 4|
Motoyama 2 — 5
Seba 28 2
Shiojiri 1 28 4|-
SHIMO-NO-SUWA. 2 30 7
Wada 5 22 13|
Nagakubo (Shim-
machi) 2 15
Nagakubo (Furu-
machi) 19 IJ
Kami-Mariko 2 25 6|
OYA 2 — b"
Total 65 25 160^
The yakasentld, or Central Mountain
Road, is so named in contradistinction
to the Tokaido or Eastern Sea Road, and
the comparatively unimportant Hoku-
roku-do, or Northern Land Road In Kaga
and Etchu, between which it occupies a
middle po.sition. It runs from Kyoto to
Tokyo, passing through the provinces of
Yamashiro, Omi, ZSIino, Shinshu, Kotsuke,
and Musashi. The road seems to have
been originally constructed early in the
8th century. Legendary history states.
however, that in the reign of the Emperor
Keiko (A. D. 71-130), his son. Prince
Yamato-take, crossed over the Usui Pa.ss
during his conquest of Eastern Japan,
suggesting the inference that some kind
of track was believed to have existed there
from the very earliest times.
Though, properly speaking, the
Nakasendo runs the whole way
from Kydto to Tokyo, the portion
between Gifu and Karuizawa (or
Oya, which is off the road proper)
is the only one now usually done
by road, the so-called Tdkaido
Ilailway having usurped the place
of the Nakasendo between Kyoto
and Gifu, and the final section
across the Tokyo i^lain being also
now traversed by rail. Oya, on the
Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway (see
Route 26), is now generally adopted
as the terminal point of the jour-
ney, which takes 5 days. Travel-
lers may find it advantageoiis to
engage jinrikishas at Gifu for the
through jovirney. At the other
end it is more difficult to make
Front Gifu ■krMitake.
249
such an aiTangement. Constant
attention is paid by tlie govern-
ment to the improYement of the
Nakasendo, with the result that
jiniiMshas with two men will
soon be practicable throughout.
At present there still remain a few
steep hills, where those who can-
not walk must engage an extra
coolie or two. Those who intend
partly to walk and partly to ride,
are advised to take jinrikishas for
the first flat section as far as Mi-
take, then from Kamado to Oi, and
perhaps from Nakatsu-gawa on-
wards to Azuma-bashi, and thence
again at intervals to the foot of the
Torii-toge, perhaps from Motoyama
into Suwa, and again either from
Wada or Nagakubo into Oya
station.
The Nakasendo trip may be
shortened by half a day, and yet
the most picturesque portion
retained, by starting fi'om Nagoya
and taking train to Tajimi, whence
by jinrikisha to Kamado, 5 ri 2U cho
(13i- m.). The railway may ulti-
mately be pushed on to Kamado
and along the Nakasendo.
The Nakasendo traverses moun-
tainous, sparsely cultivated dis-
tricts, remote from populous cen-
tres ; and it used to be noted that
the peasantry along portions of
the route had a poverty-stricken
appearance. But the recent won-
derful development of the silk in-
dustry has done much to amelio-
rate their contlition ; and the ac-
commodation is everywhere good,
— judged, that is, from a country
stand-point. The best time for
travelling along the Nakasendo is
the summer or autumn. Between
December and April this route can-
not be recommended, on account of
the snow, especially on the passes.
On leaving Gifu, a flat country,
a good road, hills to the 1., many
villages, rice-fields at first, and
then a pleasant moorland partly
wooded, — such is the impression
left by the first stage of the
journey. Shortly after passing
Kano, a suburb of Gifu, the Tdkaidd
Railway line is crossed. Just before
reaching
XJnuma {Inn, Oshima-ya), we
see r., a couple of miles oil', the
keep (ienshu) of the castle of Naru-
se, lord of Inagi, in fair preserva-
tion, crowning a wooded hill be-
hind the rice-fields. Soon after,
we get our first sight of the river
which is to be our companion for
several days, — the Kiso-gaioa, —
already picturesque even thus far
down its course, with dark boul-
ders and reefs of rock that make
navigation dangerous for the boats
and rafts.
The Kiso-gawa ranks as one of the San-
dai-ka, or Three Great Rivers of Japan,
the other two being the Tonegawa and
the Shinano-gawa : but the Kiso-gawa is
incomparably the most beautiful. Rising
near the Torii-toge iu the province of
Shinshu, it runs for a length of laS miles,
and after forming an intricate delta which
is subject to dreadful floods, falls into the
Bay of Owari. The Nakasendo is often
called by the alternative name of Kiso-
Kaido, or Kiso-ji, that is, the " Road along
the Kiso."
Beyond Ota (Inn, Isogai), the
Kisogawa is crossed by ferry to
Ima-icaiari, — one of the few ferries
remaining on the beaten tracks.
The stream is singularly clear and
pure. A gradual ascent leads over
a rather dull bit of country to
Mitake (Inns, *Masu-ya, Ebi-ya).
Some small caves (hito-ana) in this
neighbourhood are popularly believ-
ed to have been the abode of the
prehistoric Emperor Keiko Tenno.
There are two himdred of them, all
facing S. in the sandstone rock.
The traveller should turn aside
at Shizuki to visit the Oni-iica, or
" Ogre's Kocks," engaging a local
guide. The detour occupies about
j hr., and the jinrikishas and lug-
gage can be rejoined at the top of
the Gara-isld-tixje.
Nearly seven hundred years ago — so
runs the legend — there lived an ogre
called Seki-no-Taro, who made his dwell-
ing among those gloomy rocks. Year
after veiir. at the yreat festival of ilitake
250
Route 24. — The Nakasendo,
on the 10th day of the second moon,
some beautiful maiden disappeared and
was no more heard of, because she had
been carried off and devoured ; but the
monster could not be caught. So the wise
men of the place devised a plan : — on
the next festival every one was to have a
mark painted on his forehead as he
entered the precincts, without which he
should not be suffered to leave again at
night. Accordingly, when all the rest had
departed, one man alone remained, ill-
favoured and of great stature, but lacking
the appointed sign. So they cut off his
head, whereupon both head and body
instantly grew too heavy to be moved and
had to be buried on the spot. From that
time forth the festival was never stained
with blood: and the grave, called Kubi-
sv.ka, is still vi-sited by persons afflicted
with any trouble iu the head. In the weird
gorge where the ogre held his revels, the
country-folks still point out the rock
from which the maidens were hurled
(Hito-sute-iwa), the Slicing Board {Mana-
ita), the Chopsticks {Sai-basJn), and others
many.
Coming to the Gara-islii-t5ge, we
find the hills dotted with scattered
boulders and scrub pine. From
the top of the pass, but a good deal
off the road on opjjosite sides of it,
may be reached two places called
Tsukiyoshi and Hiyoshi, the former
very rich in fossil shells, some of
which have been removed and
enshrined in a temple at the latter.
The local legend avers that some of these
fossils fell from the moon, others from
the sun, whence the names of the two
hamlets.
The Hamhara-toge is crossed be-
fore reaching Kamado. a village of
some local importance, as here a
road called the tihita Kaido, which
is much used for traffic, diverges to
Nagoya. It is mostly flat and excel-
lent going. Ontake now comes in
view ahead to the 1., while Ena-san is
seen to the r. (for these two celebrat-
ed mountains, see Rte. 31). The road
is very hilly most of the way to Oi,
and indeed on to Nakatsu-gawa and
Ochiai. The peasantry in the
district stretching eastward use an
odd kind of spade, heav)"^ and two-
handled. The diggers stand op-
posite each other, one delving, the
other using the second handle to
assist in raising the blade for the
next blow. Another local pecu-
liarity consists in the rows of bird-
cages under the eaves of most of
the houses in the villages passed
through. Each cage contains one
tsugume, a kind of thrush, used as
a decoy. These thrushes form a
welcome addition to monotonous
travelUng fare. When not in season,
— which is autumn and spring —
they are kept preserved in yeast
(koji-zuJce), and are eaten slightly
roasted. Further eastward another
small bird, called miyama, is treated
in the same way.
[The section of the Nakasend5
from Mitake to Oi is a com-
paratively new road (shindo) ;
the old road (kyudo) to the N. of
it, passing through the villages
of Hosokute and Okute, leads
over the Biwa-toge and a
succession of hills known as
the Ju-san-toge, or "Thirteen
Passes," none of which are
high.]
Nakatsu-gawa {Inn, Hashi-
rild), generally called Nakatsu for
short, lies close to the base of Ena-
san, and is the best starting-point
for the ascent of that mountain.
Here, as at other towns further on,
the traveller will be waked early
by the shriek of the sUk factory
whistle. The 1 ri on hence to Ochiai
is a succession of ups and downs.
The little town itself lies in a hol-
low by the side of an aflluent of the
Kiso-gawa, which river we now
rejoin and follow for two days
along the most beautiful part of its
course by a splendid jinriMsha
road.
[The old road over the Jik-koku-
toge, via Magome and Tsumago
(Inn, Matsushiro-ya), though 1
n shorter, is now rarely taken
by any but the jjostman. It
rejoins the new road at the
hamlet of Azuma.']
Soon we pass out of Mino into
the more varied and mountainous
province of Shinshti, and the river
Timber-felling. Nezame no Toko.
251
scenery becomes more and more
picturesque, -witli great overhang-
ing masses of rock and little
tributary waterfalls, before reach-
ing the hamlet of Azuma-bashi,
where a considerable affluent, the
Araragi-gawa, falls in r.
[A_ mountain road over the
Odaira-tof/e diverges here to lida
for the rapids of the Tenryu-
gawa, see Rte. 30.]
Between Midono (Inn, Matsu-
ya) and Nojiri, a poor place, is the
narrowest part of the valley. The
hills get more pointed and more
feathery-looking with their splen-
did timber, except in the too nu-
merous places where deforestation
has left its ruthless trace.
At some times and in some places, there
really seems to be more wood in the
river than water, 80,000 trees being sent
annually down stream, not in rafts but
singly, each stamped with its owner's
mark. The trees most esteemed are
hinoki and sawara. Several tracts apper-
tain to the Imperial domain, while others
now belong to the peasants. In former
days, when all the woods of Kiso were
owned by the Daimyo of Owari, stringent
forestry laws were enforced ; and where-
as ordinary trees might be hewn down at
will, the two species above-mentioned
and also keyaki, nezu, and asuhi, mij^ht not
have so much as a twig broken off, and
armed foresters were placed to shoot all
poachers dead. Any peasant found in
possession of a utensil made of one of the
forbidden kinds of woods was arrested.
In case of his having purchased any such
from a neighbouring province, it was in-
cumbent on him to infoi-m the authorities
of his own locality, who verified the
transaction and branded the article in
question with the official stamp. This
paternal despotism had at least the effect
of bequeathing splendid forests to poster-
ity. Immense havoc was done during
the turmoil which ushered in the new
regime, and only since about 1890 has
serious attention again been turned to
forest preservation. The Imperial do-
main is believed to be now economically
managed, but the peasants continue to
waste their newly acquired source of
wealth. The timber is felled in late
spring and summer, and floated down
stream in autumn and winter. A largo
number of men find employment as wood-
cutters, others are stationed along the
stream with bill-hooks to push off strand-
ed logs. At a place called jSTishikori in
Mino, hawsers are stretched across the
stream to prevent the logs from floating
further. There they are sorted and i-
dentified by government officials, and
afterwards bound by their respective
owners into rafts, most of which are
navigated down to Kuwana in the
province of Ise.
We cross the Inagawa, an afflu-
ent of the Kiso, which flows down
from Koma-ga-take, before rejoin-
ing the main river and entering
the town of
Suwara {Inn, Sakura-ya). This
lies in a more open part of the
valley, where much sUk is produced.
The mountains again draw in, and
the road becomes more hilly.
About 2 ri on is the cascade of Ono,
not very remarkable. Koma-ga-
take, of which only peeps have
been obtained hithex'to, is seen
excellently on entering the hamlet
of Nezame. In shape it exactly re-
sembles a saddle, two sharp little
knobs in the middle making its
resemblance to that instrument of
torture, a Japanese saddle, only
the more realistic. Native travel-
lers always stoxD at this hamlet to
see the Nezame no Toko, or " Bed
of Awakening."
This curious name is derived from a
local tradition which avers that Ura-
shima, the .Japanese Kip Van Winkle (see
p. 85), awoke in this spot from his long
dream. Others, more matter-of-fact, ex-
plain the name to mean that the view
"wakes up," that is, startles those who
come upon it.
Without going the whole way
down to the river, one can obtain a
good view of the rocky platform
from the gi'ounds of the poor temple
of Binsenji, where it appears far
below the spectator. There is the
rock on which Urashima opened the
casket (tama-te-bako), and others
resembhng a Hon, an elephant, a
mat, a screen, etc., are pointed out.
But Europeans ^vill probably be at
a loss here, as in several other
celebrated show-places in this
country, to understand why the
Japanese should have singled out
this special spot from among so
many lovely ones ; and when a
252
Route 24. — The Nakasendo.
native guide-book says that " its
noble character surpasses the
power of the mind fully to appre-
ciate, and of language adequately to
describe," one can but smile and
wonder.
Twelve cho beyond Nezame, we
pass r. a steep flight of steps, with
a stone marMng "4 ri 20 cho to
the summit of Koma-ga-take,"
and then we reach
Agematsu ( Inn, Haku-ichi).
Either this town or Fukushima
woidd be an excellent place for the
lover of mountain scenery to stay
at for a few days. Both Ontake
and Koma-ga-take can be con-
veniently ascended from these
points, and from the top to Koma-
ga-take one may descend to the
Ina Kaido for the rapids of the
Tenryu-gawa. The ascent and then
the descent on the other side could
be done under favourable circum-
stances in one extremely long day ;
but it is better to stop at the hut
recommended in our desciiption in
Route 31, No. 12, or at another hut
lower down.
A distance of 30 cho more through
similar charming scenery biings
one to the Eiso no Kakc-hashi, a
celebrated awkward bit, where in
ancient days the nan-ow footpath
clung with difficulty to the
precipitous rock. The excitement
of the passage has been lost by
successive improvements in the
road. Here pilgrims fi'om the west
cross the river for the ascent of
Ontake, of which sacred but bare
peak a good view is obtained a
little fiTrther on to the 1.
Fukushima [Inn, Suimei-ro) is a
good-sized town extending along
both banks of the river, and is the
most important place in the
district. Here the scenery of the
Nakasendo changes. The Kiso-
gawa loses its rocky wildness ; but
in exchange we shall soon have the
high passes ami extensive ^dews.
Miyanokoshi [Inn, Touari-ya)
was formerly the seat of the feudal
lord Kiso Yoshinaka. the graves of
whose family are still shown at the
temple of Tokuonji. The little
town of
Yabuhara {Inn, Kawakami-ya),
called Yagohara by some, is entirely
devoted to the manufacture of
combs. It stands at the foot of
the Torii-toge, at a height of 3,150 ft.
above sea-level.
[From Yabiihara, a road follows
the r. bank of the Kisogawa
nearly iip to its source, pass-
ing over into the province of
Hida.]
A good but very circuitous jin-
riMsha road leads over the pass,
without touching its summit ;
pedestrians are advised to take the
older and steeper but shorter way
which does. A similar remark ap-
plies to the descent on the other
side.
The name of this pass is derived from
the toiii on the top dedicated to Ontake,
the summit of which sacred m.ouutaiii is
visible hence. Strange as it may seem,
two battles were fought on this spot in
the 16th century, between some of the
rival chieftains who, during that period
of anarchy, disputed Eastern Japan
amongst them.
The torii at the top is a massive
granite structure. There are also
several quaint bronze and stone
images to be seen, both Buddhist
and Sliinto. Narai, which nestles at
the E. foot of the pass, offers fair
acommodation, though the vill. is a
poor one. Hirasaica is another
poor place, where cheap and com-
mon lacquered articles are made.
The scenery improves as we ap-
proach
Niegawa (Inn, *Oku-ya). The
river Kiso was left behind at the W.
side of the Torii-toge ; but we
remain in the Kiso tlistrict for a
httle longer, and follow- another
stream flo-wing between high, well-
wooded banks. We next pass
through Seha and Motoyama, where
jiniiMshas < »r hasha can be engaged
for the rest of the way to Shimo-
no-Suwa.
[Basha are also practicable
hence to the large town of
From Niegawa to Shimo-no-Satva.
•253
Matsumoto (see p. 260), 4J ri
clistaiit.]
The road is rather dull till reach-
ing the spot where the way to
Matsumoto branches off 1., while
we, keeping to the Nakasendo,
climb a short hill to a little uplaud
called Kikyo-ga-hama, which affords
a fine prospect, — Noiikura and Yari-
ga-take 1., and ahead the moun-
tains of central Shinshu. There is
yet another road to Matsumoto at
the vill. of Baimon, 10 cho before
Shiojiri {Inn, Kawakami). Be-
yond this town lies the Shiojiri-
toye, 3,340 ft., the second of the
high passes of the Nakasendo.
Here, as so often elsewhere, a choice
presents itself between two roads,
— the old one, bad but shorter, the
new whose practicability for jin-
riMshas is counterbalanced by its
length. The view from the top is
extensive and very beautiful.
Below hes Lake Suwa, with villages
studded over the adjacent plain. Of
the high mountains that almost
completely encircle its basin,
Yatsu-ga-take is the luost promi-
nent. To the r. of the dip at the
far end of the lake, the cone of
Fuji appears behind a nearer range.
The sharp peak further round to the
r. is the Koshu Koma-ga-take, while
more remote stretches the long
summit of Shirane-san. A little
further back, the top of Ontake is
visible. Just behind are the lofty
peaks of the range separating the
plain of Matsumoto from the prov-
ince of Hida. The descent on the
other side is quite easy. Just before
Shimo-no-suwa, we pass 1. a
splendid bronze torli erected in
1892 at the entrance to the Aki-
rM-MUja, a famous Shinto temple.
Shimo-no-Suwa {hms, Kikyo-
ya, with private hot springs ; Maru-
ya,and many others), lies in a basin,
the greater part of which is occupied
by Lake Suwa, \ hr. walk from the
town.
This lake, almost circular iu form, is
said to be 35 ft. deep, but is slowly filliug
up. It.'? present diameter is about 2J
miles. It freezes over most winters ao
solidly that heavily laden pack-horses can
cross over to Kami-nn-SuvM with perfect
safety near its S. E. extremity. The in-
habitants do not, however, venture upon
the ice until it has cracked across, believ-
ing this to be a sign from heaven. Some
attribute the cracking to the foxes. During
the winter the fishermen make holes in
the ice through which they insert their
nets and manage to take a considerable
quantity of lish, especially carp. From
the S. end of Lake Suwa issues the
Tenryii-gawa, which flows into the sea
near Hamamatsu on tbe Tokaido.
Shimo-no-SuAva ii-; celebrated for
its hot springs, the principal of
which, called Woia-^w-yu, has a
temperature of 113°.9 F. Of the
two other principal sources in the
town, one called Ko-yu, which con-
tains alum, has the high tempera-
ture of 145°.4 ; the other, called
Tanga-yu, has a temperature of
114:°.«S. As in the case of many
Jaj)anese spas, Shimo-no-Suwa is
apt to be noisy of an evening. In
the day-time it is busy with the
silk industry. Within one hoiu- of
the town are scattered nearly a
hundred filatures, producing the
best silk in Japan. The largest
establishments employ over two
hundred hands. Quinces, which
ripen in October, are also produced
in great abundance. Wild cats
■v\'ith long tails inhabit this district,
noticeably different from the short-
tailed cat of E. Japan.
Two great Shinto shrines, called
respectively Haru-no-Miya (Spring
Temple) and Aki-no-Miya (Autumn
Temple), — the former situated near
the inns, the latter on the E. out-
skirts as already indicated, — have
long been celebrated, but are now
fallen into lamentable decay.
They derive tlieir appellations from the
fact that the divinities there worshipped
are believed to change their abode from
one to the other according to the season,
moving in to the Haru-no-Miya on the
1st February, and into the Aki-no-Miya
on the 1st August, on each of which oc-
casions a procession takes place. The god
and goddess worshipped are named re-
spectively Take-mina-gata-tome-no-Miko-
to and JVIai-no-yasaka-touie-no-Mikoto.
254 Route 25. — By Steamer from Yokohama to Kobe.
The way now leads up towards
the Wada-toge, at first through a
didl valley, between hills of in-
considerable height. The stone
monument passed on the way is
to the memory of six warriors, who,
surprised here by the enemy, com-
mitted harakiri rather than sur-
render. This was in December,
1863.
The Wada-toge is the longest and
highest pass on the Nakasendd,
being 5,300 ft. above the level of the
sea. Snow lies on it up to the end
of April, but is seldom so deep as
to block the road. The glorious
view from the summit may best
be enjoyed by chmbing one of
the mounds to the 1. of the road,
involving i hr. delay. To the N.E.
rises Asama-yama; to the S.E.
Tateshina and Yatsu-ga-take ; S.W.
the eye rests upon the basin of
Lake Suwa ; further to the W.
stand Koma-ga-take and Ontake,
while to the N.W. a great portion
of the Hida-Shinshti range is visible.
Five cho down one reaches the
cluster of tea-houses (Kiso-ya and
Tsuchi-ya are the best) collectively
known as
Hig-ashi Mochiya. In case of
having to spend the night, this
would be found a better jAace to
stay at than Wada, which hes at
the N.E. foot of the pass, as the
latter is apt to be crowded in sum-
mer -with pilgrims going to Ontake.
N'ag-aku'bo is a double vill.,
whose two halves, Nagakubo-Shim-
machi (Lm, YamazakL-ya), and Na-
gakubo-Furumachi, He over a mile
apart. The former stands near
the foot of the Kasatori-toge, over
which the old Nakasendo highway
via Mochizuki, Iwamiirata, and Oi-
wake leads. It is now more xisual,
as indicated in our Itinerary, to
curtail the journey by branching
off N. down the valley of the
Idagawa, an easy ride into
Oya (Inn, Oya-kwan), a smaU
station on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu
Railway. Here the traveller is
within Ih hr. of the favourite
Slimmer resort of Karuizawa, with
hotels in foreign style ; or he
can go straight into Tokyo (see
Eoutes 13 and 12).
ROUTE 25.
By Steamee peom Yokohama to
Kobe.*
While steaming down Tokyo Bay,
there is a good view of Fuji with
the Hakone range in the foreground
on the r ; on the 1. is the flat shore
of the province of Kazusa. At 1
hr., the ship will be near Kwannon-
zaki, on which there is a fixed white
light visible 14 miles, showing a red
ray in a certain direction to guide
vessels clear of Saratoga Spit (Fut-
tsu-saM) and Plymouth Eocks to the
southward.
Powerful forts have been con-
structed on Kwannon-zaki, on Sara-
toga Spit, and also in the centre of
the channel in 26 fathoms of water,
for the defence of the Bay. After
passing Kwannon-zaki, the ship
steers down the Uraga Channel,
so called from the town of that
name (p.l06) on the shores of a small
harbour a few miles S.W. of Kwan-
non-zaki, which was formerly the
port of entry for Tokyd Bay. At 2
hrs., Tsurugi-saki — the south end
of the channel — is rounded, where
there is a hght visible 24 m.
Thence the track lies S.W. to Bock
Island across the Bay of Sagami,
which opens on the r., and close
past the north end of Vries Island,
described in Koute 8. From 4 to 6
hrs., the ship will be running almost
parallel to the coast of the pen-
* The expressions ' at 1 hour,' ' at 2
hours,' etc., in the description of this
voyage, signify ' when the steamer has
been 1 hour out of Yokohama,' ' 2 hours
out of Yokohama,' etc., taking 12 knots
per hour as the average speed.
Whaling off the Coast of Kishu.
255
insula of Izu (Kte. 7), within 10 m.
of the shore. A fine prospect may
be enjoyed of its rugged ruoiintain
chain, with Fuji, which towers be-
hind, bearing N.W. The island
beyond Vries, looking like a cocked-
hat, is Toshima, the second of
the Seven Isles of Izu. At 6
hrs.. Rock Island {Mikomoto), off
the extreme S. of Izu, is reach-
ed ; on it is a fine light visible 20
m. Fi'om Eock Island, the direct
route is W. S. W. to the S.E. ex-
tremity of the province of Kishu.
This course, which is followed in
the summer months, leads the ship
so far off shore that there is little
to be distinguished. But in winter
the N.W. winds generally blow so
strongly that, to avoid the heavy
sea, the ship, after passing Rock
Island, is kept due W., crossing the
mouth of Suruga Gulf, and at 9
hrs. is off Omae-zaki, distinguish-
able at night by a white revolving
light visible 19 m. Fuji is now 60
m. distant, and will not be seen
much after this point except in
clear winter weather. From Omae-
zaM the track recedes for some
hours from the land, which, being
low, is not particularly interesting;
and if the ship left Yokohama just
before sunset, this part vnl\ be
passed in the night. At 13 hrs. the
ship is off Owari Bay, a deep bay
stretching some 30 m. to the north-
ward, narrow at the entrance, but
widening out considerably inside.
It is from Omae-zaM to this point
that the voyage is generally most
trying to bad sailors. At 15 hrs.
the ship is off Cape Shima, whence
to Oshima is a run of 70 m., grad-
ually approaching the land, where
fine views of the bold and pictur-
esqe mountains of the proviaces of
Kishu and Yamato are obtained.
This Oshima is of course different from
the Oshima (Vries Island) mentioned
above. There are numerous Oshima's off
the Japanese coast, which is not to be
wondered at as the name simply means
" big island." This particular Oshima has
been the scene of repeated maritime dis-
asters. The most terrible in recent years
was the foundering of the Turtish man-of-
war "Ertougroul" on the 16th sfeptember,
1890, when ij02_ men perished out of a
crew of .571. Oshima and its neighbour-
hood form an important whaling centre.
The whaling guilds conduct their opera-
tions according to an elaborate system,
described by Rev. R. B. Grinnan in the
Japan Mail. Minute laws regulate the
construction of the boats and weapons
employed, and the functions of the
various classes of men engaged. The
following description of the modus
operandi is somewhat condensed : — "The
signals are a very important part of the
work. INIen with glasses are arranged on
three different mountains, one above the
other. The man from the highest point,
being able to see furthest, gives the first
notice as to the approach of a whale by
lighting a fire and raising a smoke, and at
the same time by means of his flag he
signals to the men on the mountain
below, and they in turn signal to the
boats. It is necessary for the men in the
boats to know beforehand what kind of
whale is coming, also his size and distance
from the land ; for the attack differs
according to these three things. The
species of the whale is known in most
cases by the manner in which the water
is spouted up. The first thing to be done
when the boats move out, is to put down
the nets across the path of the whale.
This is rather difiicult to do correctly, for
in the first jilace they must be arranged
according to the species of the whale.
Another thing to be calculated on is the
strength and course of the tide. One
fighting boat goes to each net boat, to
assist in arranging the nets in their proper
order. Not all of the nets are put down
at first. The nets that are put down are
placed one after the other in parallels, with
slight cuives, with short spaces inter-
vening. After the first net is laid, the
others are all arranged a little to the
right or left, so that when all the nets
are down they slant off' to one side or the
other, and thus cover a broader space
across the path of the whale. As soon as
the nets are arranged the net boats draw
off on each side and look on. Then some
of the fighting boats go around behind
the whale to attack from that point,
while others arrange themselves on the
sides so as to drive the whale into the
nets. Those from behind strike with the
hai-poons and run the lines out. The
whale then rushes forward, and must be
driven into the nets. Then a wild scene
ensues, and every eflbrt is made to sur-
round the whale that is making frantic
efforts to escape. He often does escape;
but if he does not, he is soon surrounded
by nearly three hundred naked yelling
men, who throw harpoons and stones
in such numbers that the huge prey
is overcome. It is really an awful as
256
Boide ^liS.—By Simmer from Yokohama to Kobe
well as pitiable sight; for the noble
animal uutll very weak makes furious
efforts to escape, rushing forward and
coming up again to beat the sea into a
bloody foam, at times smashing the boats
or overturning them ; and above all the
din and yelling of the men, can often be
heard the plaintive cry of the whale as
the deadly weapons sink deep into his
flesh. Before the whale is dead, and
while he is rushing forward, a man with
a very sharp knife leaps on his back near
the head, and slashes two great gashes
into the flesh, and passes a large rope
several times around in the flesh, leaving
a loop on the outside : the same kind of
loops are made in the flesh nearer the tail.
This is done in order that the whale may be
tied up between two large boats to beams
stretched across, and thus kept from
sinking when he dies. In this way he is
carried in triumjih to the shore. The
operation of cutting the holes and putting
in the ropes is only done by the bravest
and most skilful men {nazashi). While
the holes are being cut and the ropes
passed in the man must hold on to the
whale, and even go down with him into
the water if he dives : for if he lets go,
he is liable to be struck by the whale's
tail and killed. The only thdng to do is to
tuck his head down and cling to the
animal by the holes he has cut. He
cannot raise his head, because he will at
once be blinded by the water being driven
into his eyes. When the fight draws to a
close and the huge mammal is dying, all
the whalers pray for the ease of the
departing spirit by calling out Jbraku!
Joraku! Joraku! in alow deep tone of
voice. Again, on the third day after the
whale is taken, a memorial service is held
and jirayers oifered for the repose of the
departed soul. If a baby whale is captur-
ed, a special maUuri is held on the ninth
day afterwards . As soon as the whale is
landed he is cut up, and it is a fearful
sight ; for the men strip themselves of all
clothing, and hack and cut like madmen,
all yelling .at the same time with the
greatest excitement. Some men even cut
holes and go bodily into the whale, and,
coming out all covered with blood, look ■
like horrid red devils. Most of the
whales taken are about 50 ft. long."
From 16 hrs. to 29 hrs. is the
most enjoyable jiart of the run
from Yokohama to Kobe. Round-
ing Oshima, which is marked by a
white revoMng light visible 18
mUes at 20 hrs., the vessel is close
enough to the shore to note the
thickly studded fishing villages,
whose fleets of boats cover the
water for miles^ Half an hour's
steaming from Oshima brings us to
Shio-MisaM, on which is a light
visible 20 m. From Shio-ilisaki the
track lies close along the shore —
sometimes within 2 m., seldom
more than -4 m. — to Hiino-Misaki,
a run of 47 m., which, if made in
daylight, will be even more enjoy-
able than the 70 m. mentioned
above. The bold hills to the r. are
those of the i^rovince of Kishxi.
The land to the 1. is the E. coast
of the Island of Shikoku. At 2.5
hrs., the ship is ofE Hiino-]\'Iisald,
and after steering due north for 26
m., will pass through Izumi or
Yura Strait, which is about 6 m.
wide, the passage for ships being
narrowed to 2 m. by two islands
called Ji-no-shima and OM-no-
shima, on the W. side of which
latter is a lighthotise. Observe
both r. and 1. how the heights have
been levelled for the erection of
forts, to protect this approach to
Osaka and Kobe. From the light
on the islet in Y'ura Strait to Kobe
is a run of 26 m. across a com-
pletely landlocked bay, with the
large Island of Awaji on the left.
Kobe is generally reached at from
28 to 30 hrs. The highest hill seen
to the r., vdiYs. white temple build-
ings sparkling in the sun, is Maya-
san ; the highest away to the 1. be-
hind Hyogo is Takatori.
Passenger steamers usually re-
main 24 hrs. at Kobe, which affords
an opportunity to visit Ky5to.
The chief ^stances of the run
between Y'okohama and Kobe, as
made by the Nippon Yusen Kwai-
sha steamers, are as follows : —
Yokohama to : — MUes.
Lightship 2
Kwannon-zaki 14
Cape Sagami 23
Rock Island 74
Oshima 244
Hiino-Misaki 297
Oki-no-shima 322
Hyogo Point 346
Company's Buoy 348
SECTION III.
CENTRAL JAPAN
Routes 26 — 42.
Route 26. — Karuizawa-Naoetsu-Niigata Railway. 2.^9
ROUTE 26.
Kakuizawa-Naoetsu-Niigata
Railway.
matsumoto. temple of zenkoji.
excubsions fbom na gang. lake
nojiki. ascent of myoko-
zan. island of sado.
0, 1
Names
of
Remarks
toil P
Q OS
Stations
■ Tokyo to Ka-
KARUIZAWA.
). niizawa (see
( Rte. 12).
8m.
Miyoda
13i
Komoro
191
Tanaka
214
Oya
( Alight for Na-
( -kasendo. •
24^
UEDA
, Eoad to Ma-
1 taumioto.
31i
Sataki
371
Yashiro
40i
Shinonoi
46
NAGANO
483
Yoshida
1 Road to Kuea-
522
ToyoDO
j tsu over the
Shibu-toge.
57;;
Mure
64
Kashiwabaia
I Alight for
' Lake Nojiri.
69^
Taguchi
( Alight for
* Akakuia.
73^
Sekiyama
81J
Aral
87-^
Takata
92
NAOETSU
921
Kasuga Shinden
96J
Salgata
99
Katamachi
loa
Kakizaki
106i
Hassaki
114+
Kashiwazaki
119:1
Kitajo
126j
Tsukaiio-yama
1311
RaiROji
135^
MiyaucLi
137i
NAGAOKA
1441^
Mitsuke
147"
Obiori
150|
151^
SANJO
( Alight for
t Yahiko.
Iclii-no-kido
156J
Kamo
1(53^
Yashiroda
167
NiitBU
172-!
Kameda
\^^
NIIGATA (Nut-
tari)
This line, starting from an ele-
vation of 3,080 ft. at Karuizawa,
descends to the sea-coast at Nao-
etsn, and so far is the most pic-
turesque railway route in Japan.
The second section, fi-om Naoetsu
to Niigata, is vastly inferior. The
first five or six miles are over a
fairly level plain ; but the condi-
tions are changed when the south-
ern slope of Asama-yama has to
be rounded. Here lies a water-shed
whence flow large rivers north and
south, towards the Sea of Japan
and the Pacific respectively. All
the di'ainage of the great volcano
pours down through deep gullies
into the channel of one or other
of these rivers. The soil, a loosely
packed volcanic ash and gravel of
light colour, is easily scooped away,
and large chasms are left whose
sides the highway descends and
ascends in zigzags. Throughout
most of this section, the traveller
looks down fi"om a giddy height on
rice-fields far below. From a point
near Oiwake, where the Nakasendo
is left behind, on to Komoro,
opportunities are afforded of seeing
to advantage the Iwamurata plain,
backed by the imposing range of
Yatsu-ga-take. Asama-yama has a
less smiling aspect on this side ; the
flat top of the cone lengthens out,
the pinky brown colour of the sides
assumes a blackish hue, and chasms
rough with indurated lava break the
regularity of the slopes. Before
Komoro is reached, a long volcanic
ridge, dominating the valley of
the river Chikuma as far as Ueda.
reveals the fact that Asama is not
an isolated cone, but the last and
highest of a range of mountains.
A former crater, which has dis-
charged itself into this valley and
is now extinct, displays a row of
black jagged rocks in the hollow
between Asama and the next peak
of the range, — a striking feature as
seen from Komoro.
Komoro (Inn, Tsuru-ya; Tea-
house, in public garden with pretty
view) is a busy commercial centre.
260
Route 26. — Kariiizawa-NaoetsiL'2^iigata Railway.
Pormerly the seat of a Daimyo, it
has turned its picturesque castle-
ground overhanging the river, into
a public garden. Saddlery, vehi-
cles, and tools for the surrounding
district are manufactured here. A
short description of the old
Monastery of 8hakusonji, vrhich lies
1 ri from the station, will be found
on p. 184.
From Komoro to Ueda the rail-
way runs down the valley of the
Chihmna-gatca, whose 8. bank is
here formed by a series of bold
bluffs, in many places descending
sheer into the water. This river,
also called the Shinano-gawa, flow-
ing towards the N., becomes one of
the great rivers of Japan, and falls
into the sea at Niigata. The massive
Shinshu-Hida range is now also in
sight, its mountains, even in the
height of summer, being streaked
with snow. A few miles before
Ueda, the valley opens out into a
chcular j)lain of which that town
is the centre.
Oya [Inn, Oya-kwan, at station),
though a tiny place, has some
importance for travellers as having
become, since 1891, the starting-
point for the journey down the
Nakasendo (see Route 24).
Ueda [Inns, Uemura-ya, Tsuzuki-
ya, both wdth branches at station)
possesses few attractions. White
and other silks of a durable quality
are the principal products of the
district. It is specially noted for a
stout striped silk fabric called TJeda-
jima.
[The important town of Matsu-
moto may be reached from
Ueda by jinrikisha (2 men
necessary) over the Hofukuji-
ioge, 4,400 ft. high, the distance
being 11 ri 25 cho (280- m.).
The summit of the pass affords
a comparatively narrow pros-
pect in the direction of Matsu-
moto, but commands, on look-
ing backwards, a fine mountain
panorama, including Asama-
yama and Shirane-san. Before
descending into the plain, one
of the grandest views in
Japan discloses itself. The
whole Hida range spreads out
before the spectator, Yari-ga-
take being specially conspi-
cuous by its spear-shaped
peak which resembles the Mat-
terhorn. In the foregi'ound
are well-wooded hills, in
the distance the river winds
like a sUver thread. A branch
railway is in course of con-
struction from Shinonoi near
Nagano, which, passing
through Inari-yama and Omi,
will strike across to the valley
of the Saigawa at Kawate, and
reach Matsiimoto. The project
inchides an extension from
Matsumoto to Shiojiri on the
Nakasendo.
Matsumoto [Inns, Maru-mo
at Hitotsu-bashi, and Mangiku
in Uramachi) is the centre of
trade between the southern
part of this province and the
province of Echigo. It stands
in the midst of a wide, fertile
plain, bordered on all sides by
magnificent mountain ranges.
A picturesque portion of the
castle of the former Daimyo
stni remains. The principal
local products are silk (though
not the finest quality), candied
fruits, socks, and baskets and
boxes of bamboo work. The
largest filature, called Eaimei-
sha, is situated at Shimizu, a
short distance S. E. of the
town.
Rather than stop at Matsu-
moto, those in search of pure
air and the picturesque should
repair to the spruce little \Tli.
of Asama, 30 did to the N.E.,
noted for its hot springs. Of
the numerous inns, the best is
the * Me-no-yu.
Bnsha run from Matsumoto
to Seba on the Nakasendo, 4 j-i
17 cho (11 m.).
Matsumoto forms convenient
headquarters for expeditions
Matsumoto and No/jano.
261
among the great mountains
described in Route 31. A
pleasant river trip can also be
made hence down the Saigawa
to Shimmachi, the cheap public
boat leaving Matsumoto every
morning and arriving about 3
P. M. A jjiivate boat (1900)
costs 15 yen. The Sanseiji
gorge, which is passed about
half-way, offers fine rocky
landscapes. There are num-
bers of floating rice-mills of a
primitive type, consisting of a
house-boat moored in the cur-
rent, and having a paddle-wheel
on each side actuated by the
passing water. They look like
a fleet of paddle-boats continu-
ally going against the stream,
but making no headway. From
Shimmachi it is 4 ri over a hiUy
road to Shinonoi, whence train
to Nagano. The head waters
of the Saigawa are near Lake
Suwa. It joins the Chikuma-
gawa a short distance to the
S.E. of Nagano, combining with
this latter to form the great
Shinano-gawa.]
The old castle of Ueda, of which
•one watch-tower stiU remains in-
tact, stands on the river bank be-
yond the town. The exit from
the amphitheatre of hills enclosing
Ueda is narrow and hidden from
view. Just before the hne ap-
proaches it, a curious bluff with
a cave in its face is noticeable on
the other side of the river.
Before reaching Yashiro, there is,
on the other side of the river, a hill
with the curious name of Oba-sute-
yama, that is, " the Hill where the
Aunt was Abandoned."
It is explained by a legend which tells
us that the abandoned one was Oyama-
bime, aunt to Ko-no-hana-saku-ya-Hime,
the lovely goddess of Fuji, who married
Ninigi-no-,\likoto, the first ancestor of the
Imperial family of Japan. This Oyama-
bime was so ugly, ill-tempered, envious,
and malicious that none of the gods
would take her in marriage. Her nephew
and niece, in despair thut her evil disposi-
tion should thus stand in the way of her
happiness, entreated her to reform, but
in vain. At last the younger goddess
suggested that a tour through the beauti-
ful scenery of Shinano, where she might
contemplate the moon from some lofty
mountain-top, would be likely to have "a
softening eflect. So they set out together,
and after surmounting innumerable
peaks, at length reached this place.
Saku-ya-Hime mounted a stone, and
pointing with her finger, said to her
aunt, "Yonder is a rock. Climb up it
and look calmly round, and your heart
will be purified." The aunt, tired with
her long .iourney, melted under the
gentle influences of the harvest moon.
Turning to her niece, she said, "I will
dwell forever on this hill-top, and join
with the God of Suwa in watching over
the land." And with these words, she
vanished in the moonbeams. — This
legend, though told of Shinto divinities,
is probably of Buddhist origin.
At Yashiro a road branches off
to the important town of Matsu-
shiro, and down the r. bank of the
Chikuma-gawa to Niigata. Before
reaching Nagano, both the Chiku-
ma and the Saigawa are crossed.
One of the spans of the Saigawa
viaduct is 200 ft. long.
Nagano {Inns, Fuji-ya, semi-
foreign; Ogi-ya; Europ. Restt., Seiyo-
ken), is the capital of the prefecture
of Nagano, which comprises the
whole province of Shinshu. It is
beautifully situated at the foot of
lofty mountains, which form an im-
posing background and almost sur-
round it. A considerable trade is
done in woven goods and agricul-
tural implements. Numerous fine
bifildings in foreign style, and
crowds of pilgrims thronging the
streets, give the town an air of ex-
ceptional prosperity. The Japanese
Club, called Jdzan-ktcan, which has
a room of 144 mats, commands a
fine prospect. The Buddhist Temple
of Zenkdji, belonging to the Tendai
sect, is one of the most celebrated
in the whole empire, and was found-
ed as far back as A.D. 670, though
the oldest portion of the present
buildings dates only from the latter
half of the l&th century. It is de-
dicated to Amida and his two fol-
lowers, Kwannon and Daiseishi, a
gi'oup of whose images is here en-
262 Route 26. — Karuizawa-Naoetsu-Niiyata Railway.
shrined ; also to Honda Yoshimitsu
and his wife and son, Yayoi-no-Mae
and Yoshisiike, who are worshipped
as the pious fo^inders.
The sacred group is said to have been
made by Shaka Muni himself out of gold
found on Mount Shumi, the centre of the
Universe. After various vicissitudes in
China and Korea, it v, as brought to Japan
in A.D. 552. as a present from the King of
Korea to the Mikado on the first intro-
ductiou of Buddhism into Japan. All the
efforts of the Japanese enemies of Bud-
dhism to make away with the image were
in vain. Thrown into rivers, hacked at,
burnt, it survived all, and finally found a
resting-place at Zeukoji in A.D. 602.
The popular Japanese proverb " Ushi ni
hikareti; Zenkoji-inaiH," lit. " to be led to
the Zenkoji pilgrimage by a cow " refers
to an old legend. A cow, so the story
goes, ran off one day with a piece of cloth
which a wicked old woman had set out to
dry, and was pursued by her to the
temple, where Buddha, appearing in a
halo of light, softened her heart and re-
warded her even in this world by restor-
ing her washing to her when she reached
home again. The proverb applies to good
coming out of evil.
Rows of shops for the sale of
rosaries and pictures of the sacred
triad line the court. Behind the
shops are the houses of the priests,
each in its own trimly laid-out
garden. At the end of this coiu't
is the chief gateway, with images
of Monju and the Shi-Tenno, which
are exhibited only on New Y^ear's
day. The building 1. of the entrance,
called Dai-Hongican, is the resi-
dence of an abbess belonging to the
Imperial family {Ama Miya Sama),
and of a sisterhood of nuns. It
was rebuilt in the old style during
the years 1890-1900, and glitters
with gold. The gaUeiy behind is
used to exhibit pictures and other
works of art on special occasions,
whence the visitor passes to the
princess's private oratory and her
reception room. Higher up and
also to the 1., is the Dai-Eanshin,
the residence of the abbot, now in
process of reconstruction. Both
sets I of buildings have pretty
gardens. At one or other, accord-
ing to ckcumstances, rehgious pic-
tures and charms are sold, also
shirts called kt/d-kafabira, Ut.
"sutra shirts." Each pilgrim pur-
chases one. and keeps it by him
till the hour of death, to be dressed
in it for burial. At the same time,
what is called a kechi-myaku — a par-
ticular kind of charm — is placed in
the corpse's hand.
The Main Temple, erected in
1701, is a two-storied building 198
ft. in depth by 108 ft. in width,
with a huge three-gabled roof, so
that the ridge is T-shaped. This
form is called shumoku-zukuri,
from its resemblance to the sh'w-
moku, a wooden hammer "svith
which the Budtlhists strike the
small bell used by them in their
religious serTices. The roof is
supported by 136 pillars, and there
are said to be 69,384 rafters, the
same ntunber as that of the written
characters contained in the Chin-
ese version of the Buddhist scrip-
tures. The sacred golden group,
standing in a shrine on the W.
side, is kept in a reliquary dating
from A. D. 1369, shrouded by a
CTirtain ot gorgeous brocade. For
a moderate fee, the curtain is raised
so as to show the outermost of the
seven boxes in which the image is
enclosed. A space of 88 mats
(about 1,600 sq. ft.) is set apart for
the worshippers. On the E. side of
the main hall is an entrance to a
dark gallery which runs round
below the floor of the chancel
{naijin), issuing again by the same
door. To complete this circuit
{kaiclan-maicari or tai-nai-^meguri)
thrice, is believed to save the
pilgrim from the peril of eternal
damnation, ilore thsm '200 bronze
and stone lanterns crowd the space
in front of the main hall.
In front of the Kyozo, or Sacred
Library, on the 1. of the main
building, are two praying- wheels in
stone, fixed in pedestals 7 ft. high,
and bearing the invocation " Namv.
Amida Bvtsu.'
The principal festivals are the
Dai Nemhuisii, or (Jreat Invocation
of Buddha, held on the 31st
Ascent of Togakushi-san S Izuna-san.
263
July, those held at the vernal and
autumnal equinoxes, and one on
the 14th March, in commemoration
of the terrible earthquake which
shook this region in 1847. The
13th July is a civic gala day. A
specially grand festival is held once
every seven years in April and
May ; the last of these occurred in
1900.
On the r. of the temple enclosure
is the Public Garden, which com-
mands a good view of the valley.
Excursions from Nagano.
1. Burando Yakushi, 1 ri N.E.
of the town, a shrine dedicated to
the Buddhist god of medicine, is
perched high above the path in a
large tree growing out of the
rock. Close by are some petroleum
springs.
2. Tog-akuslxi-san and Ken-
no-mine. Five ri from Nagano
stands the temple of Togakushi-san,
whither the god Tajikara-o-no-
Mikoto is said to have hurled
the rocky door of the cavern in
which the Sun-Goddess had hidden
herself (see the legend as given on
p. 45). The road, which is passable
for jinrikishas, leaves the town on
the 1. side of the temple of Zenkdji,
and winds up a narrow ravine to the
hamlet of Arayasu, whence, lead-
ing over low hills, it reaches the
rest-house called Nyuzaka in 45
min., and then issues on to the
moor which encircles the base of
Izuna-san at a height of 3,750 ft.
above the sea. In 15 min. more
we come to two tea-houses known
as Okubo. The path then descends
for about 1 m. to a point where it
divides, the r. branch proceeding
direct to the vill. of Togakusld
(Inn, Kambara), at the upper end of
which the Chursha temple is situa-
ted, the 1. reaching the Hoko-sha
after 12 cho more. The latter
temple, standing at the top of
a long flight of steps Hned with
old cryptomerias, is a spacious
building decorated with carvings
of some merit. From the Hoko-
sha to the village is a pleasant
walk of 12 cho through a wood.
Except for their beautiful sur-
roundings, little remains about the
temples to attract the visitor ;
a fine modern bronze water-basin
in the lower court of the Chu-sha,
and the sepia drawing on the
roof of the main hall are, however,
worth inspection. The road to the
Oku-sha (30 cho) is almost level
the whole way, except during the
last few hundred yards. It stands
at the head of a romantic ravine,
and commands a tine view in-
cluding the summits of Fuji and
Asama-yama.
Those who intend to climb Ken-
no-mine (8,080 ft.) will do best to
pass the night at Togakushi. Whe-
ther one ascends via Omoie-yama
(6,000 ft.), and passes thence along
the rTigged ridge to Ura-yama in
order to make the complete circuit,
or takes the latter only, a long day
should be allowed for the expedi-
tion. The path up Omote-yama
leads directly behind the priest's
house at the Oku-sha, and is so
precipitous in parts that chains
have been affixed to the trees
and rocks for the benefit of pil-
grims. Waraji are indisi^ensable.
To ascend Ura-yama only, one does
not touch the Oku-sha, but takes
the path which ch verges from the
main road to Kashiwahara at about
1 ri from Togakushi. The distance
to the summit is variously estimat-
ed at from 4 to 5 ri. A Httle below
stands a hut where pilgrims pass
the night, in order to -witness
sunrise from the peak, whence
Amida is supposed to be \isible
riding on a cloud of manv colom-s.
3. Izuna-san (6,080 ft.) should
be ascended fiom the vill. of Toga-
kushi, whence the summit may be
gained in 2 hrs. easy walking up a
long spur. Another path, by wluch
the descent is usually made, strikes
up from the moor on the Nagano
side, 20 min. beyond the Nyiizaka
tea-hoiLse mentioned above ; but it
264 Itoule 26. — Karuizawa-Naoetsu'Niigata Railway.
is exceedingly steep .and covered
with dense undergrowth. A hut,
in which pUgiims sleep, occupies
one side of the summit. The "view
is Yery extensive in every direction.
The descent takes rather less than
2 hrs., and emerges on the moor at
a point where the traveller may
either return to Arayasu, or strike
away to the 1. by a path leading
over the moor to Kashiwahara
station, — a 3 hrs. walk.
The railway from Nagano con-
tinues along the plain as far as
Toyono {Inn, Sakamoto-ya).
Here it enters a naiTow valley,
which it follows up until Kashiwa-
hara is reached at a height of 2,200
ft. At Toyono, a road leads over
the Shibu-toge to Kusatsu (see j).
192). A fine view is obtained of
Izuna-san on the 1. as
Kashiwabara is approached.
This section of the line traverses a
region where the snowfall is pecu-
liarly heavy, drifts occasionally ac-
cumulating to a depth of over
10 ft., and stopping all traffic for
weeks at a time.
[The traveller with time to spare
should alight here to visit the
beautiful little lake called No-
jiri-ko, 1 ri distant, and then
proceed to the hamlet of Aka-
kura, 3 rl further, lying on the
side of Myoko-zan, and noted
for its hot springs. Jinrikishas
can be taken all the way.
Those going direct to Akakura
ahght at the next station,
Taguchi, from which the baths
are 34 cho distant by jinilkisha.
The way from Kashiwabara is
through a pleasant oak-wood,
whence it descends slightly to
Nojiri (small inn), situated
on the shores of the lake,
which is suiTounded by low
hills covered with thickets. On
a densely wooded islet is a
temple called Uga-no-Jinja. In
front of the temple stand two
magnificent cryptomerias, one
of which measures 27 ft. in
circumference. The view of
the giant masses of Izuna,.
Kurohime, and Myoko-zan, as
seen from the island, is ex-
ceptionally fine. The waters
of the lake find an outlet into
the Sekigawa, which, flowing
from sources on Togakushi-
san and Yakeyama, falls into
the sea at Naoetsu.
Akakura is a favourite
stimmer resort of the inhabi-
tants of Takata and other
places on the plain. It posses-
ses many Inns, the *Kogaku-r6
best, with European food, open
from June to October inclusive,
and numerous baths, public and
private, which are supplied
with hot water brought in pipes
from sources 2 ri further up
the mountain. From the ham-
let nothing obstructs the glori-
ous prospect of the rich plain
extending down to Naoetsu on
the Sea of Japan, and of the
island of Sado on the dim
horizon. About 3 ri off, be-
tween Kurohime and My6k5-
zan, is a large waterfall called
Nae no taki. Akakura is the
most convenient point from
which to ascend
Myoko-zan (8,180 ft.). This
mountain is not free from snow
until July. The ascent can be
made by a good walker in 3
hours. There are two paths,,
passing respectively by Slina-
mi Jigoku-dani and Kita
Jigoku-dani. Traversing the
httle public garden at the top
of the village street, the last-
mentioned goes straight on,
while the former bears to the 1.
This has more varied scenery,
and is somewhat shorter. The
path leads through the long
grass for some distance, and
then climbs steeply to a point
whence Fuji is seen, — 50 cho
from Akakura. At about 2 ri,
the hut of the sulphur workers
beloAv Minami Jigoku-dani is
reached, whence, for about 10
Ascent. <>/' Myoko-zan. Naoetsu.
265
cho, the path ascends the steep
course of a rivulet under the
cane-brake ; and soon after, at
a small shrine, the path from
the Kita Jigoku-dani joins it
from the r. A little above this
is the Eokudo-no-ike, whence
to the top is a steep but
nowhere dangerous climb of
20 cho, partly assisted by
chains. On the summit stands
a small wooden shrine dedicat-
ed to Amida, near which tepid
water oozes out drop by drop.
Myoko-zan forms part of an ex-
tinct volcano. The mountains
immediately surrounding it are
the long semi-circular ridge
called Myoko-zan-no-Urayama
on the S.E., and Kanayama on
the N. The view to the H.E.
includes Asama and Fuji.
Directly S. rises Kiu'ohime
with its two peaks, between
which is seen the top of IzTina-
san. Ken-no-mine bears about
S.S.W., while the round-topped
moTintain bearing W.N.W. is
Yakeyama, an extinct volcano.
To the N.E. the view extends
over the plain of Echigo to the
Sea of Japan and the Island of
Sado. — In descending, the path
to the 1. at the hut below
the Ilola;d5-no-ike and via
the Kita Jigoku-dani solfatara
may be taken. It is in parts,
however, very narrow, and
overhung with tall grass and
weeds. The mountain is much
frequented by pilgrims, espe-
cially on the 28rd night of the
6th moon, old style, when
they go Tip in great numbers
by torchlight, but do not pass
through AJjakura.]
There is a falling gradient of
about fiOO ft. in the 4|V m. traversed
between Taguchi and Sekiyamn.
The ascent of Myoko-zan may also
be made from here, but it involves
a longer walk over the moor than
from Akakura. The gradient is still
heavy until Aral is reached, where
the country becomes flatter.
Aral is a flourishing town noted
for tobacco, pueraria starch (kuzu),
and petroleum, the spiings being
in the immediate neighbourhood.
Here is first seen the custom pe-
culiar to most of the towns in
Echigo, of having covered ways
along the house-fronts, for use when
the snow lies deep in the streets.
Takata {Inn, Koyo-kwan) is a
large place, formerly the castle-
town of a Dainiyo named Sakaki-
bara, one of the four families who
enjoyed the privilege of providing
a regent during the minority of a
Shogun. The town is traversed by
a long slTeet, which bends repeated-
ly at right angles. Cotton-weaving
is extensively carried on. The Hok-
koku Kaido branches off 1. near
here to the provinces of Kaga, Echi-
zen, etc. (see Route 42).
Naoetsu (Inns, Ika-gon, Matsu-
ba-kwan), near the mouth of the
Seldgawa, is a port of call for
steamers to FushiM (10 hrs.), and
other places on the West coast.
Naoetsu produces a jelly called
awa-ame, made fi'om millet, and
appreciated by both Japanese and
Europeans. A great annual horse
—or, to be quite correct, mare — •
fair is held dui'ing the month of
July in the siiburb of Kasuga
Shinden. The animals are brought
from Shiiya and other locahties in
the province of Echigo.
Half a 7-t to the S. of Naoetsu
lies the viU. of Gochi (Inn, Shimizu-
ya), a favourite resort during the
hot weather, where several good
tea-houses have been built on chifs
overlooking the sea. Excellent
bathing may be had on the long
stretch of sandy beach immediate-
ly below, so that altogether those
compelled to remain over-night in
this neighbourhood will iind it a
pleasanter resting-place than stuf-
fy, uninteresting Naoetsu.
[Travellers desirous of folloMdng
the coast line southward to To-
yama, wUl find the itinerary at
the end of Route 42. Except
the first day of bold cliffs, it is
206 Route 26. — Karuizoiva-Naoetsu-Niigata Railway.
mostly dull travelling, partly
along the beach, and partly
through rice-fields. Mr. Per-
cival LoweU thus describes it : —
" Every few hundred feet, we
passed a farm-house screened
by cHpped hedgerows and
bosomed in trees; and at longer
intervals we rolled through
some village, the country piie
becoming for the time the vill-
age street. The land was an
archipelago of homestead in a
sea of rice."]
Lea^'ing Naoetsu, the line riuis
through pine-trees, follomng the
coast which at first is flat and
sandy. There is considerable tun-
nelling between Hassaki and
Kashiwa-zaM through the lower
spiu's of Yoneyama, which here
actually come down to the sea,
helping to form the only pictur-
esque portion of this section of the
route.
All this cuast district, as far as a town
called Tera-domari. is jiihabited by a
population of hardy fishermen : and the
sea yields bream (tai), plaice {/caret), and
a kind of brill (hirann), in large quantities
and of great size. The tish caught here
are considered much superior in flavour
to those taken off the coast of Etchu fur-
ther west. The women are sturdy and
capable of the hardest toil. They usually
perform the labour of porters, and even
drag carts. Muslin made of hemp, and
called Echigo rliijimi, is woven in the
villages, and generally dyed indigo colour
with a faint pattern in white. The
Japanese esteem it highly as material for
summer clothing.
At the large town of Kashiwa-
zaki {Inn, Tenkyo) the railway
leaves the coast, turning eastwards
to tap the commercial cities in the
valley of the Shinano-gawa. It
traverses the vdAe plain of Echigo,
whose rice yield loakes this prov-
ince extremely rich. The flatness
of the near ju-osiject is relieved by
fine views of distant mountain
ranges. The line crosses the
Shinano-gawa before reaching
Nagaoka [Inn, Masumi-tei), a
large and prosperous place with
streets laid out at right angles.
The river is a source of danger, as
it frequently overflo'ws its banks
duiing the autumn rains. The
water at Nagaoka is very bad, ow-
ing to the soil being permeated
with oil. Extensive petroleum re-
fineries occupy one of the siiburbs.
The wells are at Urase, Hire, and
Katsuho, which places lie close
together in the range of low hills
called Higashi-yama, some 3 ri to
the E. of the city.
Althoutrh the discovery of oil in the
province of Echigo dates from a very
early period, the development of the
industry itself is of quite recent origin, the
first serious attempts to work the fields
near Nagaoka dating only from 1889.
There are now over 200 wells at Urase,
aud some 70 at Katsubo. Their depth
ranges between 500 and 700 feet. Most of
the digging is done by hand ; and though
some machine pumps have been set up,
the miners prefer to bring the oil to the
surface by hand-pulleys. Iron conduits
leading from the works convey the cnide
oil into the refineries at Nagaoka. The
refined product enjoys a good reputation
in the trade.
In the same direction, but 3 n
further E., stands the small town of
Tochio, which produces the best
isumu()i in the proAince. Uesugi
Kenshin (see p. 85) was born here,
and various rehcs of him are pre-
served at the temple of Joanji.
Sanjo (Inn, Echizen-ya). A stay
at this place might be availed of for
two expeditions. The first is S.E.
up a tributary stream, the Igarashi-
gawa, to a spot some 6 ri distant,
where the torrent flows between
cliffs 70 ft. high. There are several
tea-houses at this cool summer
resort, which is called Yagi. Eour
or five ri further on, at Yosld-ga-
hira (1,350 ft. above sea-level), is a
lake with a hot spring in the mid-
dle. At Nyohoji, about 1 ri from
Sanjo in this direction, natural gas
issues from the ground, and is
utilised by the peasants for heat-
ing and lighting.
The other long expedition from
Sanjd is to Yahiko, where, on a high
lull on the coast (2,100 ft.), stands
a Shinto temple resorted to by
Niigata. Island of Sado.
267
worshippers from the whole prov-
ince. This eminence affords a
splendid panorama, bounded on
the E. and 8. by lofty mountain
ranges, with Ede-san due E. tower-
ing above its attendant peaks.
The country continues flat for
the whole of the rest of the way.
Niitsu is noted for its kerosene
wells.
WTuttari, the terminus of the
railway, is a suburb of Niigata, ly-
ing on the opposite or E. side of
the river.
Niig-ata (Hotel by Miola, called
Restaurant International ; Inns,
*Yoshi-kwan, Kushi-sei), capital of
the prefecture of the same name, is
situated on a naiTOW, sandy strip
of land between the Shinano-gawa
and the sea.
Niigata was opened to foreign trade
in 1869 : but the commercial expectations
entertaiiied with regard to it have uot been
fulfllled. and almost the only foreigners
now residing there are a few missionaries.
Owing to the bar at tlie mouth of the
river, vessels of foreign build cannot enter
the port, but are compelled to anctior in
the roadstead outside. A supplementary
port in the Island of Sado, called Ehisu
Minnto, is open to foreign vessels to talie
refuge in when the direction of the jire-
vailiug wind renders it dangerous to
anchor oCf >fiigata ; but trade is not per-
mitted there.
Not many centuries ago, the site of
Niigata was 8 or 10 m. out at sea. \
curious map, about 800 year.si old, shows
Sanjo as a sea-port town, and there exists
confirmatory evidence that the whole of
the rich alluvial plain here extending
between the mountains and the sea — 100
square miles or more — has become dry
land within historical times, partly by
the silting up of rivers, partly by up-
heaval of the land.
The tt)wn, which covers an area
of rather more than 1 sq. mile,
consists of five parallel streets
intersected by other streets and
canals. A line of low sand-hills
shuts out all view of the sea. The
cUmate of Niigata is very ti-yiug, —
hot in summer and terribly cold in
winter, snow falhng to a depth of 2
or 3 ft., and lying for a considerable
time. The houses are built with
their gable-ends towards the street,
and the roofs are prolonged beyond
the walls in order to prevent
the snow from blocking up the
Avindows. An enormous quantity
of coarse lacquer- ware is mamifae-
tured at Niigata ; and articles of
a pecuiliar pattern called mokusa-
nuri, or "sea- weed lacquer," are
brought for sale from the district of
.\izu where they are produced. In
the suburbs of the city, Echigo chi-
jimi is manufactured from hemp.
The small public garden svvr-
rounding the Shinto temple of
Kakii-san, affords a fine ijrospect of
the river and of the lofty range of
mountains some 10 ri distant to
the E.
Travellers intending to proceed
north from Niigata, are advised to
take steamer to Sakata, Tsuchizald
(Akita), Noshiro, or Hakodate ; or
else they may cut across country to
Wakamatsu, and join the Northern
Eailwav at Korivauja (see Routes
68, 69, and 65).
Island of Sado.
The Island of Sado, which lies 32
miles W. of Niigata and is includ-
ed in the same prefecture, can be
reached by small steamer from the
latter place in about 5 hrs. Steam-
ers run daily fi'om May to October ;
for the rest of the year the saihngs
are irregular, t)n a(;count of the fre-
quent storms that prevail on this
bleak coast. The island is hilly
and picturesque, consisting of two
groups of mountains, separated by
a cultivated plain. The principal
formation is Umestone. Sado has
a population of 115,000, and is
principally noted for its (jokJ and
silver viines situated close to the
town of Aikawa. which have been
worked from tlie earliest times.
During the middle ages, Sado was
used as a place of exile for crimi-
nals. Among those who were re-
legated to its inhospitable shores,
Mas the Buddhist saint, Nichiren.
Aikawa {Inn, Takada-ya) is a
268
Route 27. — TFa^s to and from Kofv^
poor-looking place, though it has a
population of 15,500, and though
the gold and sUyer mines are so
near at hand.
Ebisu Minato {Inn by Ito Sei-
emon), where passengers from Nii-
gata generally land, is a large but
"wretched "village, situated on a nar-
ro"w strip of beach bet"ween the sea
and a lagoon. The distance from
Ebisu ilinato to Aika"wa is 6 ri 29
cho (I62 m.), — a pretty "walk.
ROUTE 27.
"Ways to and feom Kof'u.
1. koftj and neighbo"dkhood. 2.
tokyo to kopu by the koshtj
KAXDO [SAKXTHASHI TO YOSHIDA'].
3. VALLEY OF THE TAMAGA"WA.
4. DOWN THE EAPIDS OF THE FXJJI-
KjVWA TO MINOBXJ AND THE TOKAI-
do. 5. kofu to shimo-no-stjwa.
6. from kofu oveb the misaka-
toge to yoshida and gotemba.
7. from komoeo to kofu by the
hiiiasa"wa-daimon-t6ge.
K5fu is a pleasant resting-place
after arduous travel, — its central
situation in the beautiful pro\-ince
of Kdshu, and its proximity to
places of such peculiar interest as
iiitake, Fuji, Minobu, the Eapids
of the Fujikawa, etc., causing it to
be included in so many different
tours as to render a description of
the several ways to and from it
advisable.
1. — KoFU AND Neighboubhood :
MrrAKE AND KlMPU-ZAN.
Kofu (Inns, Choyo-tei, with
Europ. restt., and *B6sen-kaku
in the public garden, Yonelcura in
Yanagi-machi ; Sadoko), capital
of the pro"vince of Koshu and of
the prefecture of Yamanashi. is
noted for the progressive spirit of
its people. For its size, it has more
buildings in European style than
any other provincial town in Japan.
Conspicuous amongst these are the
Prefecture, the Normal School, the
Banks, the Court-houses, the Town
Hall, the Industrial School, and
the silk iilatures.
The silk industry has advanced by
leaps and bounds during the last few
years, so that Kofu now boasts several
reeling and weaving establishments, em-
ploying each from 100 to 400 hands, most-
ly females, whose work-hours are from
5 A.^I. to S and sometimes 11 P.il., with-
out any interval for meals or any Sunday
rest ! This goes on all the year round,
with the exception of a couijle of mouths
in winter. It should be added, in justice
to the employers, that the workers appear
healthy and contented. Perhaps the
practice is not so bad as the theory.
Almost ail the silk of this district is ex-
ported.
The castle grounds were many
years ago turned into an experimen-
tal garden. The platform, where
the keep formerly stood, aifortls a
fine "view of the town and surround-
ing country. The grounds of the
public garden formerly belonged to
the Buddhist temple of Ichlrenji :
— notice the twelve stone lanterns
carved each with one of the signs
of the zodiac. Kofu is noted for
its haiki, a thia sUken fabric used
for the linings of dresses and for
bed-qrrilts ; also for a sweetmeat
called tsuki no shizuku, that is
" moon-drops," consisting of grapes
coated with sugar. The province
of Koshu produces excellent grapes,
which are in their prime about the
end of September or mid-October.
Crystals are found at Mitake in the
neighbourhood. A gi-eat festival,
called Mlyuki no Matsurl, is held in
Kofu on the 15th April, "with the
pious object of averting the Hoods
of the Fuefuki-gawa.
From Kofu a dehghtful day's ex-
cursion may be made to the temples
Milake d Kimpu-zan. Koshu Kaido.
269
of Mitake, distant about 4^ n.
Jinrildshas should be taken over
the first fiat bit as far as Chizyka
(1 ri), or with two men even to
Kissaioa (2 ri from Kofu). At
Kissawa a local guide should be
engaged, who will lead the pedes-
trian up along the Shindo, or New
Road, in the romantic gorge of the
Arakawa, a torrent forcing its way
between gaunt gi'anite walls, with
pines and other trees and flowering
shrubs perched on every ledge of
the lofty rocks. The valley widens
out at Ikari, a hamlet 10 cho below
Mitake, and thenceforward the
scenery becomes less wild. The
vill. of Mitake has several decent
inns. Specimens of rock crystal
are sold in the ■village, being
brought from mines in the neigh-
bourhood ot Kurobera on the way
to Kimpu-zan. As for the temples,
once so magnificent and still far-
famed, modern Shinto iconoclasm.
abetted by neglect and scarcity of
funds, has wrought sad havoc.
Their site, and the gi-ove of giant
trees that shades them, still remain
impressive ; otherwise there is little
to go so far to see. The yearly
festival at Mitake is held on the
10th to 15th of the 3rd moon, old
style, when azaleas and kerria-blos-
soms adorn the scene.
On returning, one should take
the Gedo, or Lower lload, which
offers beautiful contrasts of upland
and forest scenery with that of
rocks inferior only to those of
the Arakawa gorge. Shirane-san,
Koma-ga-take, Fuji, and numerous
other mountains are seen to great
advantage.
An alternative way to Mitake
leads by the vill. of Wada, lU cho
out of Koto, wlience walk.
Kimpu-zan. The climb up and
down this gi'anite mountain, 8,300
ft. high, can be acc-omplished in
one day from Mitake by maldng
an early start. The way hes
through the vill. of Kuvobfrit, whose
neighbonrhoo<i furnishes those
crystals for which the province of
K5shti is celebrated. Near a Shinto
shrine 2\ hrs. beyond Kurobera,
there is a good-sized hut for the
accommodation of pilgrims ; and
here the real ascent begins, the
distance hence to the summit being
about 2,000 ft. The way hes over
a heap of large boulders. At two
places, ladders are fixed to assist
the cUmber over difficult gaps, and
at two others chains give adchtiontil
security ; but even without the help
of these, there wotdd be no danger.
The top is crowned by a huge
inaccessible mass of gi'anite, rising
to a height of some 50 ft., and
forming a landmark by which the
mountain can be recognised at a
great distance. The view includes
Asama-yama on the N., Yatsu-ga-
take almost due W., Fuji to the
S., and the lofty mountain range
on the western boundary of the
pro'vince of Kdshu.
2. — Feom Tokyo to Kofc by the
KosHu Kaido. [Fbom Saeu-
HASHI to YosHIDA.]
The line of railway now in course
of construction along this ancient
and picturesque highway wiU, when
completed, afford the quickest
means of reaching Kofu. But
Koshu, the province from which
the roi'xl takes its name, is encircled
by such a barrier of mountains that
the engineers have no easy task,
and it may be two or three years
yet before the older metho<te of
travel can be abandoned. At pre-
sent the first stage of this journey,
viz. as far as llat-hioji, is by triiin
fi'om either Sliimbashi or Shinjiku
station, 1\ hi', from the latter (see
p. 144). The Itinerary of the rest
of the route is as under. The
road is often heavy in imrts, ex-
cept close to the larger villages ;
and continuid endeavours to im-
prove it l)y avoiding hills, etc., make
some of the distances vary slightly
from time to time.
270
Boute 27. — Ways to and fr<ym Kofu.
HACHIOJI to :— Fd Cho M.
Komagino 2 19 Q\
Yose 2 30
Yoshino 33
Ueno-hara 1 1^7
Tomiiiama 3 In
Sarnhashi 1 —
OzTiki 1 2
Kuronota 2 29
Eatsiinnma 3 15
KOFU 4 2
Total 24 2 58J
•2^
2.J.-
8i^
10
The whole ground may be cover-
ed in 2 days, by taking jinriMshas
from Hachioji to Kofu. and sleep-
ing the first night at Sarnhashi.
Carriages of the usual springless
kind run the whole way. From
Hachioji {Inn, Kado-ya), the
road Hes along the flat to Komagino,
"beyond which vill. a gradual rise
leads up the Kohotoke-ioge. The
modern highway, avoiding as it does
the summit of the pass (1,850 ft.),
misses the extensive view over the
plain of Toky5 and the sea, for
which this portion of the journey
was formerly noted ; but on the
way down on the other side, there
is a fine prospect of the Koshu
mountains. Soon the fertile valley
of the l>anyu-gawa, also called Ka-
tsura-gawa, comes in sight. This
river flows at the bottom of a deep
ravine, and remaijis a constant com-
panion as far as Ozuld. Some poor
hamlets are passed before reaching
Yosh.ino [Inn, Sakamoto-ya).
TJeno-liara (Inn, Uehara) Hes on
a plateau, and has no wells. All the
water has to be brought from a
distance in wooden pipes, and is
consequently foul. From Ueno-
hara, the road plunges down to the
bed of the Tsurukawa, a tributary
of the Katsura-gawa. The scenery
becomes very pretty before reaching
Saruh.ashi (Inns, Dailvoku-ya,
Kubota),
that ia, the "Monkey's Bridge,"' also
■called Enkyo, the latter name being but
the Chinese pronunciation of the Bame
ideographs which in pure Japanese read
Sarukashi. The place derives its name
from the bridge having formerly been
a mere crazy plank, such as monkeys
alone might be supposed likely to venture
across.
Perpendicular cliffs frown down
upon the dark emerald stream,
which is naiTow and deep at this
point. The present bridge is of
the cantilever sort, having the ends
of the horizontal beams planted
deep in the soil that covers the
rock. Saruhashi, though an in-
considerable place, claims a certain
importance as a market-town for
the surrounding villages, and also
manufactures kaiki. Another
cheaper fabric called tsumugi, spun
from refuse silk, is manufactured
in several of the neighbouring
towns.
The scenery continues lovely
after passing Saruhaslii. There is
a celebrated view at a point where
the Katsm-a-gawa is joined by one
of its affluents, the "Wata-gawa,
between Saruhashi and Koma-
hashi.
Ozuki is badly situated, as a hill
rising behind it shuts out the stin-
light and the view of Fuji.
[A road to Yoshida, fi'om which
place Fuji may be ascended (see
p. 172), branches off here to the
1., following up the valley of
the Katsiira-gawa, and passing
through the cleanly and thriv-
ing town of Yamura (Inn,
Susuki-tei). At Toka-ichiba
there is a pretty cascade, which
is seen to best advantage from
the verandah of the tea-house
close by. The distance fi-om
Ozuki to Kami-Yoshida
(Inns, Osakabe, Kogiku) is just
under 6 ri. The whole road is
in a manner dominated by
Fuji, beginning near Ozuki,
where the great volcano ap-
pears en vignette, and then
grows and grows till it fills up
the entire foreground. It is
also interesting to observe the
Tne Koshu Kaido. Tamagawa Valley.
271
gradual conversion of the lava
into arable land, partly by
weathering, partly by human
toil.]
From OzuM the road proceeds up
the valley of the HanasaM-gawa,
through villages devoted to the
breeding of silkworms. The diver-
sified forms of the mountains lend
an unusual charm to the scene.
After passing
Kuronota (Inn, Miyoshi-ya), we
ascend the Sa.sago-toge, 3,500 ft.
above the sea. The longest railway
tunnel in Japan is being pierced
through this mountain.
Katsunuma (Lm, Ikeda-ya) is
the chief centre of the grape-grow-
ing industry. The fertile plain of
Koshu now stretches out before us,
surrounded on every side by a wall
of high mountains. The principal
summits to the W. are Koma-ga-
take, H6-o-zan, -Jizo-dake, Kwan-
non, and Yakushi, backed by a
long chain collectively known under
the name of Shirane-san. Fuji
also is visible now and then over
the tops of a range boiimhng the
plain on the S. From the vill. of
Todoroki to Shimo-Knrihara, the
road is lined with peach-trees, dou-
ble cherry-trees, and kaido (Fyrus
spectabilis), which are in full blos-
som about the middle of April.
The road runs along the plain from
this point into Kofu.
3.
-Fkom Tokyo to Kofu by the
Valley of the Tamagaw.a..
This exceptionally pretty route is
much to be recommended in the
spring-time, when the trees are in
flower. Kofu can be reached by
it in 2J days. Fair accommodation
is to be had at K6chi-no-yu and at
Ofuji ; but the food is ever5rwhere
poor. Train across the plain of
Tokyo in about 3 hrs. to Ome,
and the rest of the journey on
foot, excepting a possible 2 or 3
ri of jinrilashrt at either end.
* n
Names
a aa
iRfl
of
Remarks
s*"!
Stations
TOKYO (Shin-
1
jiku Jet.)
im.
Okubo
25
Nakano
5.+
Ogikubo
n
Kichijoji
10
Sakai
iFor Kawagoe,
13
Kokubunji Jet..
\ a dull country
(town.
17
Tachikawa Jet..
( Change for
lome.
21J
Haijima
23
Fussa
24|
Hamura
25^
Ozaku
28i
OME
Itinerary by road.
(distances approximate)
OME to :— Ei M.
Sawai 2^- 6^
Kotaba 1^ 3f
Hikawa 2 5
K6chi-no-yu (Yuba). 3 7 J
Kamozawa 2 5
Tabayama 2J 6J
Ochiai ^ ^
Yanagizawa-toge 1 2J
Kamikane li 3|
Ofuji I 1\
Kusakabe 1 J 3|
Hirashina 1 2 J
SatogaM 2 5
KOFU 1 2J
Total 29 70f
The firet portion of this journey
over the Tokyo plain is briefly
described on p. 144. At Hamura,
the water of the Tamagawa is
diverted into an aqueduct which,
supplies the capital.
Ome {Inn, by Sakanoe Einzo ;
Resit., Wakasa-ya) consists of a
single long street lined with old
gnarled fruit-trees, maples, crape
myrtle, and pines, which give it a
pleasing aspect. Komptra-san, the
small hill rising directly behind
272
Route 27. — Ways to and from Kqfu.
the station, commands a fine view
of the plain \s-ith the Tamagawa
running through it. On leaTing
this town, the road at once enters
the Valley of ihe Tamagaica, ascend-
ing along its 1. bank. The valley
is here rather wide and weU-
cultivated. Passing through the
peach orchards of Mitamura, the
bridge at the entrance of
Sawai {Inn, Yamaguchi-ya) is
crossed, beyond which place the
Yalley contracts and winds, and
the hills on either side increase in
height, while in front rises the
tiiple summit of Mitake (see p. 14:5).
Kotaba is the highest point
fi'om which rafts descend the river.
Further up, single logs are thrown
into the water and left to float
down with the current. The sce-
nery continues charming ; the path
constantly ascends and descends,
sometimes rising to a great eleva-
tion above the stream. Maize,
millet, and potatoes constitute the
chief crops gi-own in the district.
Passing through the remains of
a cryptomeria gi'ove, we cross the
Nippara-gawa, and reach the
village of
Hikawa {Inn, Hikawa-ya.)
At this place, and elsewhere in the
valley, may be observed bevelled water-
wheels, used where the bank is too high
for the ordinary undershot wheel. The
floats are small and placed wide apart,
and the axle is inclined at an angle in
order to admit of the wheel dipping into
the stream.
Thi-ee ri up the valley of the
Xippara-gawa are some remarkable
caves in the limestone rock. The
next stage beyond Hikawa is
extremely picturesque and but
sparsely populated. Below the
path, which winds up and down
the flank of the mountain, the
stream dashes along a rocky chan-
nel ; while above, on either hand,
rise steep lofty hills, mostly cover-
ed with timber, but wherever the
•exposure is favourable, ciiltivated
up to the highest possible limit.
. Kochi-no-yu {Irm, Shimizu-ya),
1,350 ft. above the sea, possesses
tepid sulphitr springs, which are re-
sorted to by the people of the neigh-
bouring hamlets. Half a mile fur-
ther we cross a tribiitary stream to
the vill. of Kochi, and pass in
succession through Miifjiynma and
Kawano to the hamlet of Kamozawa,
on the boundary between the prov-
inces of Musashi and Koshu.
Kamozawa (no inns) stands in
a striking situation on the hillside.
Fx'om a point a short distance
beyond, the road winds up the side
of a magnificent wooded gorge
for 4 or .5 m., the river flowing
away below, shut out by the shade
of deciduous trees. At last we
come in sight of the spacious
upland valley in which lie
Tabayama {Inn, Mori-ya), 2,000
ft. above the sea, and one or two
other hamlets. Beyond this, the
scenery becomes even more re-
markable. Str ikin g views of deep
ravines and rockj'' precipices occiu:
a short way above Tabayama,
where grey, fir-clad cliffs tower up
to a height of over 2,000 ft. fi'om
the river-bed. But the grandest
prospect of all is about I5 m.
below Ochiai, where the road winds
round the face of a lofty precipice
commanding a view up a densely
wooded gorge. From this point to
Ochiai, which is a mere cluster
of huts, and for 1 ri further to the
top of the Yanagizaica-toge (4,600
ft.), is a walk of about 2 hrs.
The top of the pass affords a fine
view of Fuji rising above an inter-
vening range of mountains. De-
scending on the Kof u side, the road
follows the course of the Omogawa
to the vill. of
Eamikaue (poor accommoda-
tion). Here, for the first time, the
great range dividing the provinces
of Koshii and Shinshu opens out
in fall view. The chief peaks
from r. to 1. are Koma-ga-take,
H6-6-zan, and Jizo-dake, with the
triple peaks of Shirane-san behind,
all rising beyond a nearer and
lesser chain. The small wooded
Rapids of the Fujikaica.
273
hill in front is Enzan, noted for a
cold sulphiu- spring (good imi).
From
Ofuji {Inn. Fuji-ya), the main
road descends straight into the
plain of K5fu, and jaasses through
Kusakabe, with its avenue of pines
and flowering trees. At SasliMe,
jinrikishas or carriages of sorts
may be engaged to Kofu.
4. — From Koftt down the Rapids
OF THE Fujikawa to Minobu
AND THE TOKAIDO.
This beautiful trip is recom-
mended alike for its scenery
throughout, and for the architec-
tural splendoxurs of Minobu.
A tram (4 ri 26 cho) takes one in
2 hrs. across the mountain-girt
plain from Kofu to
Kajika-zawa (Inns, Yorozu-ya;
Kona-ya, near the boat-house),
where one embarks for the descent
of the Eapids of the Fujikawa. The
charge (1900) is 5 yen for a private
boat (kai-kiri) with four men,
weather being favourable ; seat in
post or passenger boat {yuhin-hune
or jikan-bune) 50 sen or 1 yen for
reserved place. But remember that
prices constantly tend upwards.
With the river in its ordinary state,
the times taken are as follows : —
KAJIKA-ZAWA to :— Ilour.'i.
Haldi 2]
Nambu 11-
IWABUCHI 3i
Total 7^
In flood-time police regulations
prohibit all boats from starting till
the water falls to a certain level.
In such circumstances of unavoid-
able delay, the time may be spent
in visiting the temple of Myohdji
at Komuro, about 1 rl from Kajika-
zawa ; or Lake l^liihiri, 3 ri distant,
popularly believed to be tenanted
by a demon (nushi), who permits
neither boat nor human being to
disturb the water.
There is considerable traflic on
the Fujikawa, nearly 300 boats
being engaged in it ; and as we
course swiftly down, we meet boat
after boat towed up by coolies
bending double over their toilsome
task. Placid at first, the river flows
between green hills intersected by
valleys that disclose glimpses of
the Shirane range, Yatsu-ga-take,
and other distant mountains.
Opposite the confluence of the Ha-
yakawa there juts out 1. a remark-
able rock called Byohu-iwa ; and
here the river, whose course has
already been interrupted by several
rapids, becomes larger and the cur-
rent swifter. Fuji's snow-covered
cone first comes in view ahead
below Manzawa. where the stream
turns northward for a short time.
The biggest rapid occurs not far
fi'om where the river divides, and
where on the 1. bank stands the
celebrated Tsuri-bashi, or " Hanging
Bridge," joining an islet to the
mainland.
Formerly this bridge was suspended to
precipitous rocks on either side by means
of stout ropes of bamboos split and twisted
together, and consisted of small bundles of
split bamboos some 6 or 7 ft. long, lashed
close together and supporting a single
row of planks laid along the middle as a
pathway. It had no hand-rail. It used
to be renewed every autumn. Since
1897, the bamboo roping has been replaced
by telegraph wire, and a low hand-rail
has been added. The bridge, a type of
many scattered over the wilder regions
of Central Japan, has a single span and
is altogether 1(3.5 ft. long, its height in the
centre being about '20 ft., and at the bank
:J5 ft. The whole structure shakes and
sways consideralily, though there is no
real danger.
Immediately after passing it,
Fuji again towers up graniUy to
the 1., and then the river Shiba-
kawa from Shira-ito-no-taki (see
p. 176) falls in idso 1.
On Hearing Matsuno, some
interesting hexagonal andesite
columns yvHl be noticed on the
r. banlv. The cuiTent remains
strong, and small rapids occur from
time to time, the whole way to the
riyer's mouth at
274
Route 27. — Ways to o/adfrom Kqfu,
Iwabuchi. Here the boat is
taken along the canal to the land-
ing-place close by the railway
station {Inn, *Tani-ya), which
stands f m. from the old town.
On the way down the river, those
with an extra day to spare should
not fail to visit !Minobu. _ This
entails lea^sing the boat at Quo or
Hakii, where it is rejoined next
day, the walk from the river to the
vill. of Minobu occupying f hr.
Minobu (l7wis,Tanaka-ya, Tama-
ya) consists of a single hilly street
lined with shops for the sale of
rosaries. It is prettily situated in
a valley surrounded by mountains
still fairly well-wooded, among the
most prominent being Okn-no-in
which rises immediately behind the
temples, and Shichimen-zan at the
head of the valley. The village
owes its existence to the great
Monastery of Euenji, founded in the
13th century by the celebrated
Buddhist saint, Nichiren (see p. 80),
a portion of whose body is here
enshrined. This monastery is the
headquarters of the Nichiren sect,
and the new temples now in process
of erection to replace the former
buildings destroyed by lire in 1875,
are choice specimens of Buddhistic
architectui'e.
On entering the grounds of the
monastery, the traveller crosses a
coru-tyard, whence either a very
steep flight of steps — the Otoko-
zaka — or a more gently inclined
slope — the Onna-zaka — may be
ascended to the actual temples. On
reaching the top of the steps, and
passing r. the belfry, 1. the double-
roofed little Nokotsxi-do — a recep-
tacle for behevers' bones — the tra-
veller vnil find himself in front of
the Founder's Temple (Kaisan-do),
from which a set of galleries leads to
the Temple of the True Bones {!<hin-
kotsa-(Jd), to the Shaka-<ld, which is
hung round with pictures, to the
Temple of the Posthumous Tablets
{Ihai-do), containing the tablets of
aristocratic believers, to the Pil-
grims' Resting-place (Kyaku-den), to
the Keception Rooms {Taimen-jo),
and finally 1. to the residence of
the archbishop (0 Tma) and r. to
the business offices of the sect
(Jimusho). The interior dimensions
of the main hall of the Founder's
Temple are : length 75 ft., depth
120 ft., height 26 ft. fi-om floor to
ceiling, while the altar is 24 ft. long
by 15 ft. in depth. The porch has
carvings of dragons, storks, birds
flitting over the waves of the sea,
and tortoises swimming through it.
The ventilating panels over the
grated doors contain angels and
phoenixes brightly painted. The
framework of the building and the
pillars which support the ceiling
are lacquered red and black, pro-
ducing a noble effect. In the centre
of the nave (gejin), hangs a magnifi-
cent gilt baldachin,_ presented by
the merchants of Osaka. Gilded
pillars mark off the space in front
of the main altar, which is lacquer-
ed red and decorated with gilt
carvings of lions and peonies. The
two porcelain lanterns about 8 ft.
high, in front of the altar, are fi'om
the famous potteries of Hizen. The
handsomely carved and gilded
shiine contains a good life-size
effigy of Nichiien, presented by the
inhabitants of Tdkyo. The coffered
ceiling of the chancel {7Uiijin) is
plainly gUt, while the part of it
immediately over the altar has gilt
dragons, touched up with red on a
gilt ground. To the wall behind
the altar are affixed modem paint-
ings of Rakan. The colours of the
square brackets in the cornices are
green, blue, red, and chocolate,
often with an outline in white or a
lighter shade of the principal
colotu", and gohl arabesques on the
flat surfaces. The gem of llinobu,
however, is the Temple of the True
Bones, comjileted in 1880, where
the lover of Oriental decorative art
will find in contemporary freshness
aU those beauties which, in most
of the religious edifices of Japan,
have already been too much tar-
Temple of Minobu.
'lib
nished by the hand of time. A
small fee is charged for admission.
The exterior is unpretentious ; but
on entering the oratory, the visitor
should observe the lifelike paint-
ings of cranes on the ceiling. A
plain gallery leads hence to the
sanctum sanctorum, where Nichi-
ren's remains are enshrined. It is
a small octagonal building, elabo-
rately decorated and all ablaze with
colours and gold. Round the walls,
on a gold ground, are full-sized re-
presentations of the white lotus-
flower, the emblem of purity and
of the Buddhist faith. The hori-
zontal beams above have coloured
diapers and geometrical patterns,
the brilliant effect of which is toned
down by the black, mixed with
gold, of the rafters. Black and
gold are likewise the colours
used in the ceiling, which is se-
ciired by admirably worked metal
fastenings. In the ramma are
carvings of the Sixteen Rakan, and
on the doors ai'e paintings of mu-
sical instruments. Bright indivi-
dually as are the many colours in
this temple, all are so cimningly
blended and harmonised that the
general eSect is one of exceeding
softness and richness. The shrine
{hoto), which was presented by the
faithful of the province of Owari, is
of gold lacquer and shaped like a
two-storied pagoda. In it rests the
crystal rehquary or casket contain-
ing the bones of Nichiren, which is
in the shape of a tiny octagonal
pagoda, standing on a base of
silver formed of an upturned lotus-
blossom, which itself rests on a
reversed lotus of jade. Its frame-
work is of the alloy called shakudo,
and one of the pillars bears an in-
scription in silver damascening,
which, among sundry particulars,
gives a date coiTesponding to A.D.
158(1. The other pillars are de-
corated with silver tracery attached
to the surface of the shakudo. The
top is hung with strings of coral,
pearls, and glass beads. The height
of the whole is a little over '2 ft.
Above hangs a baldjichin presented
by the inhabitants of Nagasaki.
The only European innovation in
the place is the introduction of two
glass windows, which permit of a
much better examination of the
building than is generally obtain-
able in the " dim religious light " of
Japanese sacred edifices. The room
in the archbishop's residence where
he receives the faithful, is a beauti-
ful specimen of Japanese house'
decoration in the old style. Note
the exquisite modern open-work
carvings of cranes and wild-geese,
and the fine paintings by Kano
Motonobu in the alcoves {tokonoma)
of the Reception Rooms. For a
small fee the priests officiating at
the Kaisandd will display the image
on the altar, and perform a short
service (kaicho) in its honour. The
chief annual festival takes place on
the 12th and 13th days of the 10th
moon, old style (some time in
November). There is another great
festival in the month of May.
The ascent to the Oku-no-in winds
up Ue-no-yama, the hill imme-
diately behind the Founder's Tem-
ple, and is an easy climb of 50 cho.
After passing the small temple of
Sanko-do, the road ascends through
a forest of cryptomerias, and near
the summit commands an extensive
view, including Fuji, part of the
Gulf of Suruga, and the peninsula
of Izu. On the top stands a plain
little temple dedicated to Nichiren,
whose crest of orange-blossom is
prominently markefl on various ob-
jects within the enclosure.
A spare day at Minobu may be de-
voted to the ascent of Shicliiinen-
zan, whose summit is not quite 5
)-i distant. The best place to halt
on the way is Akasawa (fair inn), 3
rl 2 cho from JMinobu. There is a
good path all the way up. The
last 50 cho are marked by stone
lanterns, numbered from 1 to 50.
No. 36 affords the best view, which
includes the full sweep of Suruga
Bay, ^vith the peninsula of Izu
stretching far out to sea, a magnili-
276
Route 27. — Ways to and from Kqfu.
cent prospect of Fuji, the fertile
plain of Kofu intersected by the
various streams that unite to form
the Fujikawa, the valley of the Ha-
yakawa below to the 1., beyond
which are seen Shirane-san and the
Koma-ga-take of Koshu, while
Yatsu-ga-take, Kiiupu-zan, and
distant ranges bound the prospect
on the N. On the top, which the
forest deprives of all ^iew, stands
a plain building dedicated to the
goddess of the mountain.
According to the legend, as Nichiren
was one day preachiug in the open air at
Minobu, a beautiful woman suddenly
made her appearance, and greatly excited
the curiosity of his auditors. On Nichi-
ren bidding her assume her true form,
she explained that she dwelt among the
mountains to the west, and that seated
on one of the eight points of the compass,
she dispensed blessings to the other
seven. She then begged for water, which
was given to her in a vase, and at once
the beautiful woman was transformed
into a serisent twenty feet long, covered
with golden scales and armed with iron
teeth. A terrible blast swept down from
the mountains, and she disappeared in a
whirlwind towards the point of the com-
pass indicated. The words " seven points-
of-the-compass " (ahichi-men) also mean
" seven faces ; " and by an equivoque the
popular belief has arisen that a serpent
with seven heads had appeared to the
saint, whom he deified under the name
of Skichi-men Daimyojin. Buddhist writers
identify her with Srimahadeva, the god
of lucky omen, another name for the
Hindu god Siva.
Grame is plentiful on the hills
surrounding Minobu. Deer and
bears are occasionally seen. Shoot-
ing, however, is strictly prohibited,
as contrary to the tenets of the
Buddhist faith.
From Minobu, and even fi'om
Kajika-zawa, a road mostly by the
river bank practicable for jinriki-
shas may be availed of in case of
flood. It passes through Namhu
and Manzawa (fair accommodation
at both), and reaches the Tokaido
EaUway at Iwabuchi. The distance
from Minobu to Nambu is 3 ri,
thence on to the T5kaid5 10 ri,
making 13 ri in all.
Another way from Minobu to the
Tokaidd, also 13 ri and feasible for
jiniikishas, leads via Nambu, Shi-
shihara, and Ojinia, over the Hira-
yama-toge to Okitsu, two or three
stations further west.
5. — ^Fbom Kofu to Shimo-no-Suwa
ON THE NaKASENDO.
Itinemry.
KOFU to:— Ri Cho M.
NirazaM 3 5 7i|
Tsubai-ai 2 — 5
Dai-ga-hara 2 9 5o
Kyoraishi 1 16 2,1
Tsutaki 1 6 2|
Kanazawa 3 8 7 J
Kami-no-Suwa 3 19 8i
SHIMO-NaSUWA 1 4 2|
Total 17 31 43^
This road is a continuation of
the Koshu Kaido, the first section
of which, from Tokyo to Kofu, has
been described on pp. 270 — ^1. It is
practicable for jiniikishas the whole
way.
Leaving Kofu and crossing the
Shiogawa, an affluent of the Fuji-
kawa, we reach
Nirazaki {Inn, Ebisu-ya) and
Tsubarai. Fi'om a grove of trees
just beyond the latter there is a
grand \iew of Koma-ga-take, the
whole sweep to the sharp summit
of the precipitous rocky mass being
seen to rare advantage. The road
now ascends the valley of the
Kamanashi-gawa, the greater part
of it as far as Dai-ga-hara being
built up on the stony beds of various
streams. The scenery of the valley
is very pretty, and in many places
quite striking. The r. side is lined
with remarkable castellated cliffs
of brown conglomerate, riddled
with caves and streaked with oc-
casional waterfalls like silver
threads. This rocky formation is
called Shichi-ri-ga-iwa, fi"om the
fact of its extending for a distance
of 7 ri from Nirazaki to the fi'ontier
of the province. To the 1. rises the
high range of which Jiz5-dake and
Koma-ga-take are the principal
Koshu Kaido. Kqfu to Gotemha.
277
features, — the former recognisable
by a statue-like knob at the top,
supposed to represent the Buddhist
god Jizo, the latter somewhat
higher and more pointed, both of
them grand jagged masses of gran-
ite. Fiu'ther on Yatsu-ga-take ap-
pears to the r., while on looking
back, beautiful and varied views of
Fuji are to be seen. We next reach
Dai-ga-hara (Inn, Take-ya),
whence the ascent of the Koshu
Koma-ga-take can best be made
(see p. 283). Beyond Dai-ga-hara
the road enters a fine grove of red
pine-trees, which shuts out the
view of the river as far as Kybraishi.
This grove is celebrated for its
mushrooms (ki-no-ko). Deer also,
now in most parts of Japan well-
nigh exterminated, are still fairly
plentiful in this district. Half-way
through the wood we cross the
Nigori-gawa, whose dazzlingly white
bed is formed of granite dust wash-
ed down fi'om Koma-ga-take. The
other rivers hereabouts show the
same characteristic, but not quite so
strongly marked. A hamlet near
Dai-ga-hara boasts the oldest and
largest cherry-tree in all Japan. At
the boimdary of the provinces of
Koshu and Shinshu, the road cross-
es to the 1. bank of the Kamana-
shi-gawa, and passing through the
insignificant vill. of SMmo Tsutaki,
reaches _
Kami Tsutaki (Inn, Osaka-ya),
after which it becomes hilly.
Thence we descend to
Kanazawa (Inn, Maru-ya), and
down the valley of the Miya-gawa,
where the waters of Lake Suwa
soon come in sight. From several
points further on, fine views are
obtained of the mountains on the
borders of Hida, the most con-
spicuous summits being Iwasu-ga-
take and Yari-ga-take. The lofty
mountain in the distance to the 1.
of the lake is the Shinshu Koma-
ga-take.
Kami-no-Suwa (Inn, * Botan-
ya, with private hot spring) is a
busy town on the borders of
the lake. About 1^ ri distant
stands the Ichi no Miya, or chief
Shinto temple of the province of
Shinshu, which contains some
excellent wood-carvings. The an-
nual festival is held on the 15th
April. The road now skirts the
slopes on the N.E. shore of the lake,
and^ passing through the hamlets
of Owa and Takaki, reaches Shimo-
no-Suwa (see Koute 24).
6. — Feom Kofu over the Misak4.-
toge to y^oshida at the base
OP Fuji, and to Gotemba on
THE TOKAIDO RAILWAY.
Itinerary.
KOFU to :— Bi
Isawa 1
Wakamiya 2
TonoM (vill.) 2
Top TonoM Pass... 1
Kawaguchi 1
Funatsu 1
YOSHIDA 1
Yamanaka .. 2
Subashiri 2
GOTEjVIBA 2
Cho
M.
8
3
—
5
—
5
18
3f
18
n
—
^
3
'2f
8
5^-
7
H
23
^
Total 17 13 42^
Time required, 2 days, stopping
at Yoshida the first night. Yoko-
hama may easily be reached by
train from Gotemba on the evening
of the second day ; or else good
walkers might cross over the
Otome-toge to Miyanoshita. Basha
are practicable fi'om Kofu to
Wakamiya ; but the latter half
of this stage is rough, and as it
also mounts a good deal, the use of
hasha in going from Kofu is not
recommended lieyond Isawa. But
those coming towards Kofu had
better engage basha at Wakamiya.
The road follows the Koshu Kai-
do as far as
Isawa (Intt Tsuchi-ya), where
it turns off to the r., and soon
enters a narrow valley. From Kami
Kurogoma it rises rapidly to Tonoki,
3,200 ft. above the sea. It then
ascends for about 1 hr. through a
278
Route 27. — Ways to and from Kqfu.
forest to the hut on the summit of
the Misaka-tofje, which is 5,120 ft.
aboTe the sea. The view of Fuji
from this point, as it rises fi'om
Lake Kawaguchi, is justly celebrat-
ed. Below is the vill. of Kawa-
guchi ; on the opposite side of the
lake are Funatsu and Kodachi ;
further S. is Lake Yamanaka. The
■view looking back towards the N.
and W. includes Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-
ga-take, Koma-ga-take, Jizo-dake,
and in the plain below, the vill. of
Isawa. It is 1 hr. descent down
the bare hillside to Kawaguchi, a
poor vill. lying a couple of hundred
yards from the lake. Boats can be
procured from here to Funatsu, the
passage of a little over -^ hr.
making an agreeable change in the
day's work ; or else one may follow
the road skirting the lake through
the hamlet of Akasawa for about
f hr., with steep mountains on every
side. Funatsu produces white and
coloured tsumugi, a coarse fabric
woven from spun floss-silk. From
Funatsu to Yoshida, and on to Su-
bashiii and Gotemba, the road tra-
verses the moor which forms the
base of Fuji (see E-te. 10.).
7. — Fkom Komoeo neak Kakuizawa
to kofu by the hlkasawa-
Daimon-tooe.
Uinerary.
KOMORO to :— Ri Gho M.
Iwamurata (about) 2 — 5
Usuda 2 16 6
Takano-machi 1 6 2f
Toyosato 2 7 5^
Umijiri 1 21 4
Umi-no-kuchi 1 10 3
Hirasawa a 7 7|
Tsugane 3 14 8^
Wakamiko 1 30 4J
NirazaM 2 21 6^
K^FU 3 13 8|
Total 25 1 61
This route is not recommended,
except to those whose object is
mountain cUmbing. Exclusive of
such climbing, the journey will oc-
cupy 2 days, basha being available
for the first part between Komoro
and Usuda, and again for the last
stage from NirazaM to Kofu. The
rest must be done on foot. The
accommodation at the villages on
the way is poor, and the scenery
mediocre, though the Ghikiima-
gawa whose upper course is follow-
ed for many miles, has some fine
chfEs. The actual pass is a very
easy climb. Its name of Hirasawa-
Daimon-toge serves to distinguish
it from another Daimon-toge fur-
ther west.
The hamlet of Hata, near Takano-
machi, is the best place from which
to ascend Tateshina-yama. This
expedition requires the whole of a
long day, but the climber is reward-
ed by an extensive view.
Fi'om Umijiri, at the end of the
Iwasaki gorge, one may visit the
sulphur springs of Inago (21 cho),
and thence go up to the Honzawa
baths (3 ri), situated at a height of
3,200 ft. above Umijiri. The sum-
mit of the Honzawa pass, some 40
min. walk beyond the Honzawa
baths, is 7,400 ft. above the sea.
Fi'om this point a path leads to the
summit of Mikahuri-yama, 8,450 ft.
The whole expedition will occupy
a day.
Itabashi is the best starting-
point for the ascent of Akadake,
one of several peaks known under
the collective name of Yatsu-ga-
take ; but there is no path.
Two ri across the moor from Ita-
bashi is a wood-cutter's hut at the
base of the spur where the ascent
begins, and it is advisable to sleep
there in order to make an early
start. The hut stands about 5,300
ft. above the sea, which leaves
3,690 ft. to be done next day, the
summit having an altitude of 8,990
ft., and the chmb being very steep
in parts. Guides cannot always be
procured at Itabashi. In this case
it will be necessary to proceed to
Route 28. — Valley of the Hayakau:a.
279
Hirasawa, where they can generally
be had at any time.
From Nagasawa it is an easy
ehmb up Gongen-dake. Should there
be any (Ufficulty in procuring guides,
it ma}^ be best, as in the previous
case, to make Hirasawa the starling-
point. The ascent occupies about
5 hrs., the descent to Nagasawa 3
hrs., that to Hirasawa 4 hrs. The
■view includes the whole of the Hi-
da-Shinshu range, amongst which
Yari-ga-take is conspicuoiis to the
N. W., Fuji is seen towering aloft S.
by E., the Koshu Koma-ga-take
S.W. by S., Shirane a little to its
S., Ho-o-zan S.S.W., distinguished
by the monumental pile of rocks
at its summit, and Kimpu-zan S.E.
by E.
ROUTE 28.
The VAiiiiET OF the Hayakawa.
Itinerary.
MINOBU to :— Ri Cho M.
Akasawa 3 — 7|-
Gokamura 2^- — 6
Kyo-ga-shima ... 2 — 5
Hayakawa 1 — 22-
Shimo Yujima ... 3| — 8|-
Narada 2 — 5
Ashikura 5 — 12J^
Arino 2 ■ — ^5
Dodo 15 1
Midai 10 |
KJFU 2 — 5
Total 23 25 58
Tliese distances are approximate,
and it is possible that some of the
moimtain ri may be of 50 cho in-
stead of only 36 cho, which would
of course proportionately increase
the mileage. An alternative plan
for those starting from Shoji is to
go down the Fujikawa as far as
the hamlet of liomi, near the con-
fluence of that river -with the Haya-
kawa, and join the above itinerary
near Gokamura, 3^ ri from Itomi.
This route is a very rough one ;
for though so close to civilisation,
the country through which it
leads lies in the heart of the
great mountain mass dividing Ko-
shu from Shinshti and Suruga, and
both the people and the roads are
in much the same state as they
were in earlier centuries before rail-
ways were known or foreigners
heard of. The journey can only be
accomplished on foot, and one
should travel as lightly as possible,
for all baggage has to be carried
by coohes, who are often difficult
to obtain. The traveller will meet
with no regular inns, except one at
Homura ; but the officials and
headmen of the various hamlets
are very civil, and ready to provide
the best accommodation their places
afford. It is possible to combine
with this trip the ascent of the
KoshCi Shirane-san and other lofty
peaks, which form the subject of
the next route.
At Akasawa the path strikes r., in
order to enter the valley of the
Hayakawa, which it does near Oo-
kamura. A short way beyond this,
it descends to a pretty valley near
the hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the
scenery is particularly striking. To
the 1. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly
wooded and seen to miich better ad-
vantage here than from Minobu.
Directly opposite is the bold round
summit of Amebata-yama, also
called Zarti-ga-take, through the
deep ravine to the 1. of which flows
tlie Amebata-gawa. Below is seen
the Hayakawa winding down the
valley on the r., and forming an
almost complete circle as it bends
round a low wooded promontory,
which from this point has the ap-
pearance of an island. The path
now descends over a rough water-
course to the bed of the river, and
ascends the 1. bank to Kyo-ga-shi-
ma. Eight cho further on, it crosses
280
Route 28. — Valley of the Hayakawa.
the stream on a tsuri-bashi, or
"hanging bridge," to the hamlet of
Momura in whose neighbourhood a
gold mine is worked.
For a description of the tsuri-bashi of
the mountain districts of Eastern and
Central Japan, see p. 273. Another primi-
tivo kind of bridge, called mannen-bashi,
has sometime.s to be crossed on this route.
It consists of a long piece of timber,
which is simply tied at the end to project-
ing supports, such as are used in the
hanging bridge. The span is not so great
as that of the tsuri-bashi ; but the narrow-
ness of the roadway, and the imperfect
manner in which the projecting beams
are supported, give the traveller a most
uncomfortable feeling of insecurity. The
.Japanese name is a hyperbole signifying
" Bridge of a Myriad Years."
Beyond Homura, the path leads
over one of the lower spurs of Dai-
koku-yama, and follows the steep
side of the valley high above the
stream. After passing the hamlet
of Nishi-no-miya, the river is re-
crossed to
Hayakawa. Comfortable quar-
ters may be obtained one mile
further on at the house of the
Soncho (M-ajot) of Misato, the "three
villages" of which Hayakawa is one.
Gold is found in the neighbourhood,
while plantations of the paper-tree
and of tobacco line this part of the
valley. Higher up, beyond the
hamlet of Arakawa, the scenery is
charming. The river dashes iilong
throiigh a tine rooky glen, and is
spanned by one of the mannen-bashi
at a highly picturesque spot. After
crossing the bridge, the road
divides. The route to Narada
tiirns to the r., and ascends a very
steep hUl for aboiit 1 ri, winds
round its upper slope, and descends
again to the river through wUd and
rugged scenery, before reaching the
hamlet of Shimo Yujinia. Beyond
this place, the path crosses and re-
crosses the river on mannen-bashi.
About 40 cho on, and a Uttle way up
the ravine I to the r., lies the hot
spring of Kami Yujima (poor ac-
commodation).
Narada (accommodation at a
Buddhist temple), the last in-
habited place in the valley, consists
of but a few households. All the
inhabitants bear the same surname,
and seldom marry outside the
limits of their own village. They
are a primitive folk of a peculiar
type of countenance, who wear in
summer a loose hempen dress, and
deer and bear-skins in the winter.
Their dialect is pecuHar, abound-
ing in archaic words and obsolete
grammatical forms. Owing to their
practical isolation from the outer
world, their ignorance is extreme,
and they are content to hve in dirt
and squalor. Bice, sake, and soy
are with them luxuries to be in-
dulged in on rare occasions, their
ordinary food consisting only of
millet and potatoes. Narada boasts
" Seven Wonders " (Nayui Piishigi),
amongst which are enumerated a
brackish pool, the waters of which
are said to have the property of
dyeing black any article of clothing
left to steep in them for forty-eight
hours, and a reed whose leaves grow
only on one side of the stem.
More interesting to the deter-
mined pedestrian than these village
wonders will be the ascent of Shira-
ne-san, which may be t:iken on the
way to Ashikura, insteatl of pro-
ceeding to the latter place by the
usual path according to the itin-
erary. For this ascent, see next
page.
The ordinary path from Narsxda
to Ashikura winds up and down a
succession of forest slopes, whose
thick foUage almost entirely shuts
out all view. Now and then, how-
ever, glimpses are caught of Shi-
rane-san and of the valleys of the
Arakawa and Norokawa. Further
on the path ^li^ddes, — r. to Kofu via
Hira-bayashi, 1. to Kofu via Ashi-
kura. The latter alternative is not
practicable during heavy rains ; but
the traveller is recommended to
take it when it can be traversed, on
account of its wild scenery. A
portion of the way hes down a
precipitous rocky ravine known as
the Ide-zaioa, where the gorge is
Boute 29. — Mountains between the Fujikaiva & Tenryu. 281
in many places so narrow that its
perpendicular sides seem almost to
meet overhead. The path descends
by the side of a torrent, crossing
and re-crossing it on trunks of
trees, and being occasionally carried
over clefts and landslips on bridges
of very primitive construction.
Ashikura, which stands on the
1. bank of the Midai-gawa, consists
of four hamlets named Kutsiizawa
(the highest up the valley), Ozori,
Kozori, and Furu-yashiki lower
down. Those who contemijlate
making the ascent of H5-6-zan or
of Kaigane should stay at Kozori.
There is also fair accommodation
at Furit-ynshiki. Jinrikishas may
sometimes be found on entering the
Kofn plain.
ROUTE 29.
The MotTNTAiNs between the Fu.ti-
KAWA AND THE TeNRTU-GAWA.
1. SHTRANE-SAN (NODOEI, AI-NO-TAKE,
kaigane). 2. HO-O-ZAN. 3. THE
KOMA-GA-TAKE of KOSHtT. 4. AKA-
ISHI-SAN.
The great mountain mass to the
W. of Kofu, lying between the
valleys of the Fujikawa, Oigawa,
and Tenryu-gawa, is only second in
orogi'aphical imiJortance to the
Etchu-Hida mountains described
in Koute 31. Climbing in this
range involves no little hardship, for
the reasons stated in the introduc-
tion to the previous route, Avith
which the greater part of this one
may conveniently be combined.
None but experienced mountaineers
should attempt it.
1 . — Sherane-san.
In order to avoid confusion when
arranging with peasant-guides and
hunters, let it be understood that
Shirane-san is not one individual
peak, but a general name for the
northern and more elevated portion
of the range of which Nodori-san,
Ai-no-take, and Kaigane are the
chief peaks.
There exists a somewhat amusing
i rivalry between the inhabitants of Narada
from whicli the first two peaks are as-
cendocl, and those of .\shikura, the nearest
point to the third, one village maintain-
ing that Ai-no-take is the highest of the
three and the tine Shirane, while the
other claims that honour for Kaigane. An
unprejudiced observer, looking at the
range from the summit of H6-o-zan or
from any other mountain top that com-
mands a view of the two peaks, will
adjudge the Ashikura people to be in the
right about the question of altitude.
Narada (see p. 280) is the start-
ing point for the ascent, — not that
there is any regularly markefl path
thence to the top of the range, but
that guides are there procurable
who know the way up, and will
carry whatever is necessary in the
way of provisions and bedding.
Those who pui-pose to ascend all of
Shirane's peaks must be prepared
to sleep out three nights, and, tak-
ing Nodori-san first, to cross on the
fourth day from the base of Kaigane
to the vill. of Ashikm-a. Nodori
and Ai-no-take involve sleeping out
two nights and descending on the
third da),^ — likewise to Ashikura.
There is a hut at the E. base of
Kaigane, but none on the top of
the range. Ai-no-take cannot be
ascended direct from Narada ;
Nodori must first be climbed, and
the track followed thence along the
lidge.
Prom Narada there is a choice of
ways up Shirane, one leading along
a ravine called Hiro-Kochi, the
other up the Shira-Kochi a short
way below it. To the top of
the ridge is a stiff climb of !) hrs..
frequent rests being needetl by the
guides who carry the baggage. The
height is 8,4(10 ft. above the sea, or
5,900 ft. above Narada, and snow
often lies there as late as July.
Once on the ridge, the rest of the
282 Route 29. — Mountains betvDeen the Fvjikawa & Tenryu.
ascent is easy. In 2 hrs. the first
peak, nameless on the maps, is
reached. The \ie-w includes W.S.W.,
the round top of Ena-san in
Mino ; N.W. by W., Ontake ; and in
front of the highest peak of a long
ridge, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu.
Norikura bears N.W., and Yari-ga-
take N.W. by N. In the far dis-
tance N.E., the top of the Nikk5
Shirane can just be descried, and
the Chichibu mountains are well
seen in the same direction. H6-6-
zan is nearly N.N.E. ; then come
Jiz5-ga-take, and Kwannon and
Yakushi close together. Fuji, the
basin of the Fujikawa, and the
Kofu plain are distinctly visible.
Half an hour more brings us to
the top of Nodori, 9,970 ft., which
commands much the same view as
the previous summit, with the ad-
dition of Ai-no-take and Kaigane,
the latter of which now comes in
sight for the first time.
From the summit of Nddori to
that of Ai-no-take (10,260 ft.)
takes 2 hrs. The top consists of
bare rock ; but a little below, every
sheltered nook has a patch of grass,
gay with the flowers that inhabit
higher altitudes. Ten min. below
the summit on the E. side, is an
excellent camping-place. The view
from the highest point includes,
besides the mountains already
mentioned, the following : — Koma-
ga-take a little to the E. of N.,
Kaigane N.N.E., Y'atsu-ga-take just
on the E. of Kaigane ; Kimpu-zan
N.E. by E., and Senj5-ga-take, a
much lower mountain on the 1. of
the Norokawa, N.W. The source
of this stream is perceived far down
on the N.W. flank of Ai-no-take.
Towards the S. and beyond Nodori-
san, a long range of mountains is
seen stretching down the frontier of
Koshu, and getting gradiially lower
as it approaches Minobu. Fuji
rises between S.E. and E.S.E.,
while H6-5-zan and Jiz5-ga-take on
the one side, and Ontake, Norilcura,
and Yari-ga-take stand up perfectly
clear on the other. The descent
from Ai-no-take to Ashikura is
fatiguing as far as a stream some
4,200 ft. above sea-level. This
stream is the Arakawa, one of the
sources of the Hayakawa. If the
day is too far spent to allow of
AshilcTU-a being reached before
nightfall, one may sleep at some
wood-cutters' huts, IJ hr. before
getting to that village.
Kaigane (10,330 ft.) can best be
ascended from Kozori, one of the
hamlets of Ashikura. It is a day's
cUmb to a smaU temple where a
halt may be made for the night,
whilst the remainder is said to
take 6 hrs. The usual plan is to
descend to the temple and spend
the second night there, returning to
Ashikura next day. Biat should the
traveller wish to complete the round
by ascending Ai-no-take and N5-
dori-san, it will be necessary to
sleep out one if not two nights
more before descending either to
Narada or to this temple.
2. — H6-0-ZAN.
The ascent of this mountain
(9,550 ft.), which, like that of Kai-
gane, is best made fi'om Ashikura,
will occupy a good pedestrian about
9 hrs., and the descent 5 hrs. in-
cluding stoppages. Though it is
possible, by making an early start,
to complete the ascent and descent
in one day, it is not lasual for pil-
grims to do so. They generally,
on the downward journey, halt for
thenight at the M'ood-ciatters' hut
of Omuro, 1^- i-i below the summit.
The accommodation being rough,
provisions and bedding should be
taken. Those who wish to enjoy
the morning yiew from the summit
must either make a late start
from Kozori and spend the rught
at Omiu'o, ascending next morning
at daybreak ; or start early, and
bivouac in the hollow between the
summits of Jizo and Ho-6-zan. In
the latter case it will be necessary to
take utensils for canying water, as
no water can be got beyond Omuro
Ho-o-zan. Koma-ga-take of Kdahv.
283
The ascent commences beyond the
hamlet of Kutsvzaica, 12 cho from
Kozori. The view from Suna-harai,
a rocky peak over which the path
leads, includes in front Senj6-ga-
take, over whose r. flank is seen
the outline of the Bhinshti Koma-
ga-take. On the 1. the ridge slopes
down to the valley of the Norokawa,
on the opposite side of which rises
the sharp summit of Kaigane ; lower
down the valley, stands out the bold
massy form of Ai-no-take, while in
the further distance appear the
lofty mountains on the northern
boundary of Suruga. To the r., the
summits of Yakushi-dake and
Kwannon-dake shut out the more
distant prospect. The view on
looking back includes Fuji, the
Kofu plain, and suiTounding moun-
tains. Yakushi-dake is not usually
ascended by pilgrims. From Kwan-
non-dake, which they do generally
visit, there is a fine view of the
ravine through which the Norokawa
flows. The highest point — Ho-5-
zan properly so called — is still fur-
ther on, and may be scaled as far as
the ledge which supports the two
enormous blocks or pillars of
gi'anite that form the actual summit.
The view closely resembles that
from Koma-ga-take described below.
Ho-o-zan may also be ascended
from Yanagi-za wa or Shintomi, near
Dai-ga-hara on the Kdshu Kaido
(see p. 277). The distance to the
top of the gap between Jiz5-dake
(a lower spur of the Kwannon-dake
above mentioned) and Ho-o-zan, is
called 5 ri. The path crosses the
spur to the 1. of the vill., and
descends to the bed of the Komu-
kawa, which is followed up until
the actual ascent of 2|- ri com-
mences.
3.
-The Koma-ga-take of
K63HIT.
Dai-ga-hara on the Koshu Kaido
is the best starting-point for this
grand movintain, 9,840 ft. above
sea-level. The climb is so precipi-
tous and difficult in parts as to
have given rise among the pilgrims
to the use of such terius as Oifa
shirazu Ko shirazu (see p. 174), Ichi
no Nanjo, or the " First Difficulty,"
Tchi no Kozoki, or the "' First Peep"
(over a precipice), etc. The ascent
is also so long — nominally 7 ri to
the summit — as to necessitate
sleeping one night at the Omuro or
Umadome huts on the mountain
side. Water should be taken up,
as none can be procured except at
these hilts. On the other hand,
much of the way is in the shade,
being through a wood. TTie siim-
mit consists of two peaks, on one
of which stands a bronze figure of
the Shinto god Onamuji. On the
second and higher peak, called Oku-
no-in, is a small image of the Bud-
dhist deity Marishi-ten. The sum-
mit commands a magnificent view
on every side. Looking S., the eye
sweeps over the valleys of the Noro-
kawa and Tashiro-gawa, to the 1. of
which rises the long range of
Shirane, the most conspicuous
summits being the snow-streaked
peak of Kaigane-san which stands
in close proximity, and beyond,
the bold mass of Ai-no-take, the
central portion of the range. Below
is the ravine through which the
Norokawa flows, as it winds round
the base of Kaigane ; the mountain
to the r. is Senj6-ga-take. Beyond
Shirane several high mountains
are visible, being probably those
that stand on the N. boundary of
Siiruga. Towards the E. the valley
of the Fujiliawa is seen between
the near summit of H6-6-zan and
the E. slope of Kaigane, and in the
far distance can be distinguished
the peninsula of Izu and the sea.
The most strildng feature of the
view is Fuji, to whose 1. a wide
plain stretches far away to the E.
Towards the N. and W. the fol-
lowing mountains appear in succes-
sion : — a portion of the Chichibu
range, Kimpu-zan, Y'^atsu-ga-take,
Asama-yama, the lofty mountains
on the borders of Etchu and Hida,
284 Boute 29. — Mountains between the Fujikawa (h Tenryu.
Ontake, the Koma-ga-take of Shin-
shvi, and Ena-san, wliile the nearer
view includes the phxin of K5fu, the
valley of the Kamanashi-gawa, Ta-
teshina-yama, the mountains about
the Wada Pass, Lake Suwa, and the
valley of the Teni-yu-gawa.
Rhododendrons grow in great
quantities on Koma-ga-take. Diar-
ing the latter part of July, when
the trees, which attain to a con-
siderable size, are in iwW bloom,
they impart a charming hue to the
scene.
4. AKAI.SH1-SAK.
This, though one of the highest
peaks of the range separating the
valleys of the Tenryu and the Oi-
gawa, is little loiown, because not
visible from any of the ordinary
lines of travel. It is best approach-
ed from Takato {Inn, Eiegami-ya),
an important town situated in the
valley of the Mibukawa, an affluent
of the Tenryu. Those coming fi-om
the E. may most expeditiously
reach Takato via Kofu and Kami
Tsutaki on the Koshu Kaido,
whence it is a walk of about 7 ri,
the path turning off 1. at the vill.
of ^ezawa, 1 ri beyond Kami Tsu-
taki, and crossing the Nyukasawa-
toge and Shibiri-toge. Hill scenery
alternates ^sith park-like stretches
that recall England. Those from
the W. reach it from Lm (Sakashita)
(see p. 285), 2 ri. Travellers coming
from the direction of Shimo-no-
Suwa may also reach Takato fi-om
Kanazawa on the Koshu Kaido, from
which village it is a pleasant walk
of some 3 ri to Midoiinitd (Inn,
Echigo-ya), and then 3.} ri more to
Takato. From Takato the road
leads due S. up the valley of the
Mibukawa, affording good views of
the W. side of the Koshu Koma-ga-
take, and over the Ichinose-toge
(4,450 ft.) to Onna-taka
This hamlet is said to derive its name
from the fact that the women are here
the heads of the households. It is also
stated that if a man fmm any other place
marries a woman belonging to this ham-
let, he is sure soon to droop and die.
and Ichiba, which latter is recom-
mended as a halting-place. Places
further on, where one may stay, are
Okaicara {Inn by Imai Takijiro),
Kamazawa, and the warm stUphur
baths of Koshibu.
The aetuiil ascent takes 11 hrs.
from Koshibu, being an arduous
scramble, during the first part of
which the Koshibu-gawa has to be
crossed and re-crossed more than a
score of times. This is followed by
a hard climb of 2 hrs. or so up the
steep tree-clad slopes of a spur
of Akaishi-san, the ascent then lead-
ing over bare loose rocks of a red-
dish colour for 2 hrs. more to a
point where it is necessary to turn
and go straight up to the final
arete. This is a moderate climb of
1 hr., and another hour is needed
to walk up to the highest point of
the peak (10,150ft.), Avhich affords
a tine view of most of the high
moiintains of Central Japan. A
night has to be spent in what the
hunter-guides call a gi'and cave, but
is a bare shelter between two rocks.
Water is not always easily found on
the mountain side. About 1 m.
from the summit is a hollow, where
the climber who wishes to see the
sunrise might sleep.
Instead of returning to Takato, it
might be possible to cross over into
the valley of the Oigawa, and either
descend to the Tokaido, or strike
the head-waters of the Hayakawa
across another range (see p. 279) ;
but the country is rough in the
extreme.
Route 30. — Rapids of the Tenryu-gauoa.
285
ROUTE 30.
The Rapids op the Tenryxt-gawa.
These r.apids, the finest in Japan,
form a natural route connecting
the Nakasendo and the Tokaido, —
the two chief highways of the
central portion of the Main Island.
The village where one embarks is
called Tokimata (Jnn, Umeno-ya).
It is reached from the E. by travel-
ling along the Nakasendd as far
as the town of Shimo-no-Suwa,
thence to Matsushima on another
important highway called the Ina
Kai/lo, and along that highway
to lida (Inns, Shogodd, Ryushi-
kwan), a large and flourishing
town, formerly the residence of a
Daimyo. The portion of the Ina
Kaido inchided in this route is by
no means lacking in the pictur-
esque. It also brings the traveller
into the vicinity of the Shinshu
Koma-ga-tako, which may be
ascended from Akao or from Saka-
shita. — Those coming from the W.
along the Nakasendo may leave
that highway either at Azumn-
bashi, whence 5 ri over the Odaira-
toije to (Jdaira, and 3 ri 26 cho more
to lida, all on foot or in jinrikishas
with 3 men ; or else at ^Shiojiri,
whence a jinrrkisha road leads to
Matsushimn as above, — 5 ri 24 cho
(13f m.).
Jtinerary.
SHIMO-NO-SUWA to :—
Bi Cho M.
Matsushima G 5 15
Sakashita (Ina) 2 IS 6
Akao 3 6 Tij
Hjima 1 31 U
HDA .5 27 U
TOKIMATA 2—5
Total 21 15 52i
The best accommodation on the
way to Tokimata is at Sakashita,
also called Ina (Inn, Tomi-ya), and at
Akao (hill, *Ton(>-oka). The whole
way from Shimo-no-Suwa to Toki-
mata is practicable for jinrikishas,
and can be accomplished in two
days ; but the occasional roughness
of the latter part of the road
necessitates the taking of two
jiniikisha-men. The passage by
boat from Tokimata down to the
Tokaido generally occupies 12 hrs.
Circumstances may render a break
necessary. In this case, either
Nishinoto or VidawMta lower down,
will do for a night's halting-place.
The total distance travelled by water
is estimated at 36 ri, say 90 m.; —
but the latter portion of this is
along a comparatively sluggish cur-
rent. The boat does not take the
traveller actually to the Tokaido
Railway. Whether bound up or
down the line, he alights at Nakn-
no-machi, for the station of Hama-
matsu, 1 ri 28 cho distant. Some
may prefer to alight at Kashima
higher up (about 5 ri from Hama-
matsu by jinrikisha or basha), or
else at Ikeda for the station of
Naka-izumi, or to go on to the
station of Tenryii-ijawa ; but both
these being small, the express does
not stop at them.
The official charge for a boat
(1900) is 35 yen when the river is in
a normal state, the justification of
this high price being based on the
fact that from 10 to 12 days are re-
quired to tow the boat up stream
again. In flood-time there is no
limit to what may be asked. Boats
not being always in readiness, it may
be advisable to write beforehand (in
Japanese, of course) to the inn-
keeper at Tokimata, to order one
mth 4 boatmen. Travellers are
also recommended to time their
movements so as to arrive at
Tokimata on the afternoon previous
to their descent of the rapids, which
will enable them to make all ar-
rangements overnight and to start
early. It might also be jiossible to
make .irrangements through the
inn at lida. A necessary stipula-
tion is that the boat shall take one
(he whole iray, otherwise the men
286
Roiif", 30. — Rapi'is of the Tenryu-gatva.
are apt to shirk the last part of the
voyage, where the sluggish stream
makes the work arduons, and en-
deavour to make the passengers
land en route, where jinrikishas may
or may not be obtainable. There
also now is a daily omnibus boat
from Tokimata at 7 A.M., 2h yen per
head ; but most of the passengers
alight at Kashima. One should be
prepared for disappointment in the
event of continued wet weather,
when the river rises considerably.
Nothing will induce the boatmen to
undertake the journey if the water
is above a certain height. Under
such circumstance^^, one of the alter-
native routes given below may be
availed of. A spare hour at Toki-
mata can be pleasantly spent in
visiting the picturesque bridge less
than 1 ri down the river, at the
spot where the rough-and-tumble
part of its course begins.
The scenery of the Tenryu-gawa
is most striking. After passsing
the bridge mentioned above, the
river enters a rocky ravins ; and
from this point on to Nishinoto — a
passage of some 6i hrs. — is almost
one continued series of rapids
and races. Walled in between
mountains that rise abruptly
to the height of from 1,000 ft. to
2,000 ft., the river twists and tears
along their rocky base, carving for
itself a channel where there seems
no possible outlet. It is in such
places that the skill of the boatmen
will be most admired, where the
boat, which looks as if it must be
dashed to pieces in another
moment, is shot round the corner,
only to be whirled on to some new
danger equally exciting.
Mr. Percival Lowell thus describes the
scene below Mitsushima, one of the
hamleta on the bank: — "The river, its
brief glimpse at civilization over, relapsed
again into utter navagery. Rocks and
trees, as wild apparently as their first
foreiunners there, wallod us in on the
sides, and appeared to do so at the end.s,
making exit seem an impossibility, and
entrance to have been a dream. The
stream gave short reaches, di8clo?ing
every few minutes, as it took us round a
fresh turn, a new variation on the old
theme. Then, as we glirlel straight our
few hundred feet, the wall behind us rose
higher and liighe:-, stretching out at us as
if to prevent our po.ssible escape. "We
had thought it only a high cliff, and
behold it was the whole mountain side
that had stood barrier there."
On approaching a rapid, the man
forward strikes the bow of the boat
■with his paddle, both as a signal
to the others and in the supersti-
tious belief tliat it will bring good
luck. Of rapids properly so-called,
there are upwards of thirty, the
finest of which are : Yagura (the
TuiTet), near Oshima ; Shin-taJci
(New Cascade), 3 ri below Mitsu-
shima ; Takaze (High Eapid); Chona
(Adze), just beyond Otani; Kon-
nyaku (Potato) ; Shiranami (White
Waves); lori ga taki (lori's Cascade);
and Yama-huro (Mountain Bath),
the grandest of all, despite its
homely name.
In the event of flood or any other
unforeseen circumstance prevent-
ing the boat joui'ney down the
Tenryii-gawa, the traveller may
avail himself of the way over the
Odaira-t5ge mentioned above to
rejoin the Nakasendo ; or else he
may strike the Tokaido Eailway by
taking a road called the Chu Uma-
kaido, which connects lida vriih.
Nagoya, 30 ri. The point where
this road would be joined is 2 J ri
from Tokimata, and 2 ri from lida.
The chief places passed on the way
are Nebane, Akechi, Tsuruzato, and
Seto.
Nebane (Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya) is
an emporium of trade between the
provinces of Shinshu and Mikawa,
the latter sending fish and raw
cotton, for \\'hich Shinshu returns
tobacco, hemp, and dried persim-
mons. It is possible to reach Toyo-
hashi on the Tokaidd Railway from
Nebane by a road, some IG ri in
length, wliich leads via the temple
of Horaiji.
Akechi (Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya),
next in importance, is a small but
thriving town, which produces
Route 31. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu.
287
porcelain, — chiefly tea-cups and
rioe-bowls of no artistic value.
For 8eto, a more famous ceramic
centre, see p. 244.
ROUTE 3L.
The Mountains of Hida and
Etchii.
1. intkoductory bemaeks. 2. gifd
to takayama in hida. 3. matsu-
moto to takayama by the abo
AND HIEAYU PASSES. NOEEKtlKA
and kasa-dake. yakeyama-toge.
4. yaei-ga-takk and hodaka-
yama. 5. nagano to toyama over
the haeinoki pass. 6. itoi-gawa
to omachi and matsumoto.
6-eenge-yama and jonen-dake.
7. tateyama. 8. toyama to
takayama by the valley of the
takahaea-gawa. u. toyama oe
kanazawa to takayama by the
valley op the shieakawa. 10.
haku-san. 11. takayama to
fukoshima on the nakasendo.
12. ontake and the koma-ga-
take of shinshtt. 13. ena-san.
1. — Inteoduotoey Remarks.
The provinces of Hida and Etchu
may be conveniently taken
together, because hemmed in be-
tween the same high mountain ran-
ges which render this region ex-
ceptionally difficult of access, and
have prevented it from being much
visited even by the natives of the
surrounding provinces. No part of
Japan has changed so little of late
years.
The range bounding these prov-
inces on ttie E. is the most con-
siderable in the empire, the only
one that can compare Avith it being
that between the Fujikawa and
Tenryti - gawu (see Route 29).
Many of the peaks are streaked
vrith snow until the early autumn,
while in some of the recesses and
gorges, where it is partially screen-
ed from the sun's rays, the snow
never entirely disappears. Extend-
ing almost due N. and S. for a
length of 60 or 70 miles, with a
breadth of from 5 to 10 miles, this
range forms a well-nigh impene-
trable barrier to communication
from the S. and E. It consists chiefly
of granite, overlaid in places with
igneous rocks ; but Norikura and
Tateyama are of volcanic oiigin.
The highest and most conspicuous
of the ntimerous peaks, beginning
at the N., are as follows :
_ FT.
0-Renge-yama 10,100
Tateyama 9,300
Jonen-dake 10,400
Kasa-dake 10,000
Yari-ga-take 10,300
Hodaka-yama 10,100
Norikura 10,550
Ontake 10,600
Kouia-ga-take (Shinshii). 8,500
Haku-san 8,950
Tlie lower flanks of the chain are
clothed with forests, in which the
most common trees are beeches and
oaks, conifers being also plentiful.
Among the wild animals of this
region may be mentioned bears,
deer, a kind of chamois, and two
kinds of boar. The streams abound
with troiit. The scanty population
consists of hardy, simple folk,
supporting themselves by hunt-
ing, wood-cutting, and charcoiil
burning. In some parts the women
wear a kind of baggy trowsers
resembling bloomers, tied at the
ankles. The staple food is buck-
wheat and millet, while barley,
hemp, beans, and mulberry-leaves
form the other chief productions of
the valleys.
It will thus be seen that the
mountaineer has but hard fare to
expect, and will be wise to provide
himself with as many tins of meat,
preserved milk, etc., as can be pack-
ed into a small compass. The re-
288
Routp, 81. — Mountains of Hida and Elchii.
commendation is advisedly framed
in these terms ; for much luggage
cannot be caixied, ow^ng to the
general scarcity of men to carry it.
Needless to add that the accom-
modation is often of the roughest.
Only at Toyama the capital of
Etchii, at Taka.Aama the capital of
Hida, at Matsumoto, and at a few
other of the larger towns, is the
ordinary standard of Japanese pro-
vincial comfort attained. Should
the varying efficiency of the carry-
ing companies which undertake to
forward goods from one portion of
Japan to another permit, compara-
tive comfort and plenty may be
ensured by sending boxes of food,
extra clothing, books, and whatever
else may be required, ahead to the
chief towns through which one ex-
pects to pass. It is, however,
always advisable to leave an ample
margin of time, as the Japanese are
not to be rehed on for punctuality
or despatch.
For practical convenience' sake,
four mountains have been included
in this route that do not topogi'aph-
ically belong to it — Haku-san, On-
take, the Koma-ga-take of Shin-
shu, and Ena-san, because, though
not actually forming part of the
same range, they stand not far from
it, and are likely to interest the
same class of travellers and to be
visited during the same trip.
The district treated of in this
route may be best approached from
one of three sides, — from Ueda
or Nagano, on the Karuizawa-Nao-
etsu Railway ; from Gif u, on the
Tokaido Railway ; or fi-om the Sea
of Japan, on which last side To-
yama is the natural starting-point.
The first-mentioned approach is to
be preferred by travellers from
Yokohama, the last two by those
coming from Kobe. Matsumoto and
Fukushima make excellent centres
for excursions among these moun-
tains.
A road is in course of constnic-
tion from Shimashima over the
summit of the Tokugo-toge, a pass
which crosses the range running
parallel to the great ridge of which
Yari-ga-take forms the highest
point. Ultimately it will head down
to the Azusa-gawa, and then proba-
bly, crossing that river, come out on
the Hirayu side of the chain.
Should this be the case, it will
afford a capital high-level route
from Shinano into lOda, and great-
ly facilitate travel through the
vnldest district of Japan.
2. — Feom (tifu on the Tokaido
KAILWAV to T.4KATAMA IN HlDA.
Itinerary.
GIFU to :— m Cho M.
Akutami 2 34 1\
SEKI 2 4 h\
Mabuld 5 29 14^
Asahari 2 7 5J
Kiribora 2 3 5
Kanayama 1 4 2f
Shimohara 15 1
Hoido 3 — 7J
Gero 3 17 ^
Hagiwara 2 4 5|^
Osaka 3 1 7J
Kukuno 3 32 9^
TAKAYAMA 3 4 7J
Total 35 10 8G
This road, called the Uida Kaido,
is practicable for jinriMshas
throughout. Three passes — the
Fukwo-zaka (fine view of Ontake),
the Nagahora-toge close to the
borders of IVIino and Hida, and the
Miya-toge — have to be surmounted ;
elsewhere the road has an easy
gradient. The best accommoda-
tion is at Seki {Inn, Yorozu-ya) and
at Shi7nohara (Inn by Kato Sabiiro-
emon). Fairly good accommodation
may also be found at Tonomura
between Seki and MabuM, at Oero,
and at Osaka.
The tame character of the land-
scape during the early part of the
joiu'ney,^ — low-l